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MEMOIR OF THE PROPOSED TERRITORY OF ARIZONA.
BY
SYLVESTER MOWRY, U. S. A., DELEGATE ELECT.
WASHINGTON: HENRY POLKINHORN, PRINTER. 1857.
"The NEW TERRITORY of ARIZONA, better known as the GADSDEN PURCHASE,
lies between the thirty-first and thirty-third parallels of latitude,
and is bounded on the north by the Gila River, which separates it from
the territory of New Mexico; on the east by the Rio Bravo del Norte,
(Rio Grande), which separates it from Texas; on the south by Chihuahua
and Sonora, Mexican provinces; and on the west by the Colorado River of
the West, which separates it from Upper and Lower California. This
great region is six hundred miles long by about fifty miles wide, and
embraces an area of about thirty thousand square miles. It was acquired
by purchase from Mexico, during the mission of General Gadsden, at a
cost of ten millions of dollars. In the original treaty, as negotiated
by General Gadsden, a more southern boundary than the one adopted by
the Senate of the United States in confirming the treaty, was conceded
by Santa Anna. The line at present is irregular in its course, and cuts
off from our Territory the head of the Santa Cruz river and valley, the
Sonoita valley, the San Bernardino valley, the whole course of the
Colorado river from a point twenty miles below the mouth of the Gila
river, and, worse than all, the control of the head of the Gulf of
California, and the rich and extensive valley of Lake Guzman, besides a
large and extremely valuable silver region, well known both to Mexicans
and Americans--the planchas de la Platte. General Gadsden's line
included nearly all the territory south of the Gila river to the
thirty-first parallel of latitude--all the advantages above
mentioned--gave us the mouth of the Colorado river, and probably a port
near the head of the gulf at Adair's Bay. We have no accurate survey of
the west coast of the Gulf of California, but I am strongly of opinion
that the original line conceded by Mexico would have thrown a portion
of the gulf into American hands, by cutting off an arm of it extending
east and north from the main body of water. A port on the gulf is of
great and immediate necessity to our Pacific possessions. Of this
hereafter.
The proposed boundaries, of the Territory of Arizona, are the 34th
parallel of latitude, with New Mexico on the north, from the 103d
meridian west to the Colorado; Texas on the east; Texas, and the
Mexican provinces of New Mexico and Sonora on the south; and California
on the west. The new Territory would thus contain within its borders
the three largest rivers on the Continent, west of the Mississippi--the
Rio Grande, Gila, and Colorado of the west, and embrace 90,000 square
miles.
The Gadsden purchase is attached by act of Congress to the Territory of
New Mexico. At the time of its acquisition there was scarcely any
population except a few scattering Mexicans in the Mesilla valley, and
at the old town of Tucson, in the centre of the territory. The Apache
Indian, superior in strength to the Mexican, had gradually extirpated
every trace of civilization, and roamed uninterrupted and unmolested,
sole possessor of what was once a thriving and populous Spanish
province.
Except the report of Col. A. B. Gray, there is scarcely anything in
print with reference to the early history of Arizona, beyond the scanty
but valuable notes of Major Emory and Hon. John R. Bartlett, in their
reports, and in the appendix to Wilson's late book, "Mexico and its
Religion." To this last I beg to refer any reader who desires accurate
information respecting the Northern Mexican provinces, presented in a
straightforward common-sense style.
In the possession of the writer of these notes is a map drawn in 1757,
just one hundred years ago, presented by the Society of Jesuits to the
King of Spain. The original of this map is now in the archives of the
Mexican Government. It was copied, with the notes relating to the
Territory, and to Sonora, Chihuahua, and Sinaloa, by Capt. C. P. Stone,
late of the United States Army. The map bears the inscription, "Carte
levee par la Societe des Jesuites, dediee au Roi d'Espagne en 1757."
The copy of the map and the accompanying notes are certified as
accurate by the officer of the Mexican Government in charge of the
archives.
My information, therefore, upon the early history of this comparatively
unknown domain, is accurate and reliable. As early as 1687, a Jesuit
missionary from the province of Sonora, which, in its southern portion,
bore already the impress of Spanish civilization, descended the valley
of Santa Cruz river to the Gila. Passing down the Gila to its mouth,
after exploring the country, he retraced his steps, penetrated the
country north of the Gila river for some distance, and ascended the
Salinas or Salt river, and other northern branches of the Gila. The
explorations of this energetic priest did not stop here. Proceeding
east, he explored the valley of the San Pedro and its branches, thence
along the Gila to the Mimbres, and probably to the Rio Grande and the
Mesilla valley. Filled with the enthusiasm of his sect, he procured
authority from the head of the order in Mexico, and established
missions and settlements at every available point. In a report to the
government of the viceroy of Spain, made during the early settlement of
the province, I find the following language: "A scientific exploration
of Sonora, with reference to mineralogy, along with the introduction of
families, will lead to a discovery of gold and silver so marvellous
that the result will be such as has never yet been seen in the world."
The reports of the immense mineral wealth of the new country, made by
the Jesuits, induced a rapid settlement. There are laid down on the map
before me more than forty towns and villages. Many of these were of
considerable size. There were a few north of the Gila, and several on
the lower Gila, near the Colorado. The Santa Cruz and its tributary
valleys teemed with an agricultural and mining population. Thousands of
enterprising Spaniards cultivated the rich valley of the San Pedro, and
scattered settlements flourished at every suitable stream and spring at
the foot of the mountains towards the Rio Grande. The notes before me
say: "All these settlements and missions were founded in fertile
valleys, and by streams and springs, which produced luxuriant crops of
wheat, corn, and beans, and in many parts grapes and other foreign
fruits were cultivated."
In the western part of the Territory were the missions of St. Pierre,
St. Paul, St. Matthias, St. Simond, St. Francisco, Merci, the ranches
of Eau Cheri, Eau de la Lune, and others; on the Santa Cruz the
missions of San Xavier del Bac, Santiago, San Cayetano, and San
Philipe, the towns of Tueson, Tubac, Reges, San Augusta, and many
others. San Xavier del Bac is still in existence. It is a mission
church of great size and beauty, magnificently ornamented within; forty
thousand dollars in solid silver served to adorn the altar. Upon the
San Pedro river were the missions of St. Mark, San Salvadore, San
Pantaleon, Santa Cruz, and the towns of Quiduria, Rosario, Eugenia,
Victoria, and San Fernando--the latter at the mouth--with many more. To
the east some small settlements were found on the Valle del Sauz, on
the Mimbres, at the copper mines north of the Mimbres, and to the south
the immense grazing and stock-raising establishment of San Bernardino,
where since have been raised hundreds of thousands of cattle and
horses. The Indians in the vicinity of the missions were reduced first
to obedience by the Jesuits, and then to slavery by the Spaniards.
The notes referred to above contain the names and localities of more
than a hundred silver and gold mines which were worked with great
success by the Spaniards. The survey of the Jesuit priest about 1687
was repeated in 1710 with renewed discoveries, and consequent accession
of population. From this time up to 1757 the conquest and settlement of
the country was prosecuted with vigor, both by the Jesuits' Society and
Spanish government.
The missions and settlements were repeatedly destroyed by the Apaches,
and the priests and settlers massacred or driven off. As often were
they re-established. The Indians at length, thoroughly aroused by the
cruelties of the Spaniards, by whom they were deprived of their
liberty, forced to labor in the silver mines with inadequate food, and
barbarously treated, finally rose, joined with tribes who had never
been subdued, and gradually drove out or massacred their oppressors. A
superior civilization disappeared before their devastating career, and
to day there is scarcely a trace of it left, except scarcely visible
ruins, evidence everywhere, of extensive and hastily-deserted mining
operations, and the tradition of the country. The mission of San Xavier
del Bac, and the old towns of Tueson and Tubac, are the most prominent
of these remains. The labors of the Jesuits to civilize the Indians are
still evident in the mission Indians, the Papagos and Pimas, who live
in villages, cultivate crops of corn and wheat, and who, in the
Christian and human elements of good faith and charity, are, to say the
least, in no way inferior to the Mexicans. After the massacre of four
of Crabbe's unfortunate party near Sonoita by the Mexicans, the Papago
Indians buried carefully the bodies to which Mexican inhumanity had
denied this last charitable office. It is a curious and suggestive fact
that the latitude of places upon Gila, Santa Cruz, and San Pedro,
determined by the Jesuits about 1750, has lately been verified by the
observations of Park Michler, and Emory. The instruments used by the
Jesuits were constructed by them, the lenses being made from pebbles.
From 1757 down to 1820, the Spaniards and Mexicans continued to work
many valuable mines near Barbacora, and the notes in my possession
speak of many silver mines, most of which contained a percentage of
gold. "The San Pedro gold mine in 1748 was worked with extraordinary
success." Among the mines anciently worked, as laid down in the
authorities heretofore referred to, were the Dolores, San Antonio, Casa
Gordo, Cabrisa, San Juan Batista, Santa Anna, (which was worked to the
depth of one hundred and twenty yards,) Rosario, Cata de Agua,
Guadaloupe, Connilla, Prieta, Santa Catarina, Guzopa, Huratano, Arpa,
Descuhidara, Nacosare, Arguage, Churinababi, Huacal, Pinal, and a great
number of others which it would only be tedious to mention.
The most celebrated modern localities are Arivaca, (also anciently
famous as Aribac,) Sopori, the Arizona mountains, the Santa Rita range,
the Cerro Colorado, the entire vicinity of Tubac, the Del Ajo, or
Arizona copper mine, the Gadsonia copper mine, and the Gila river
copper mines. These last are situated directly upon the Gila, only
twenty-five miles from its mouth. The writer assures the public that
there is no room for doubt as to the authenticity of these statements,
or the immense resources of the new Territory in silver, copper, and
probably gold. As late as 1820, the Mina Cobre de la Plata, (silver
copper mines,) near Fort Webster, north of the Gila, were worked to
great advantage; and so rich was the ore that it paid for
transportation on muleback more than a thousand miles to the city of
Mexico.
Every exploration within the past few years has confirmed the
statements of the ancient records. The testimony of living Mexicans,
and the tradition of the country, all tend to the same end. Col. A. B.
Gray, Col. Emory, Lt. Michler, Lt. Parke, the Hon. John R. Bartlett,
late of the United States Boundary Commission, all agree in the
statement that the Territory has immense resources in silver and
copper. Col. Emory says in his report:
"On account of the Gold Mania in California I kept the search for gold
and other precious metals as much out of view as possible, scarcely
allowing it to be a matter of conversation, much less of actual search.
Yet, enough was ascertained to convince us that the whole region was
teeming with the precious metals. We everywhere saw the remains of
mining operations, conducted by the Spaniards, and more recently by the
Mexicans."
The report enumerates at considerable length the various localities
examined by Col. Emory's party, and others, of which there could be no
doubt.
In view of these authorities, it is hoped that those who will not
believe upon any evidence, will be content in their own incredulity.
The most authentic reports of these immense mineral resources have been
used as authorities against their existence. The authors of these
denials either have never read what they pretend to quote, or think no
one else has. The Hon. T. Butler King, who was the first to reveal to
an incredulous public the wonders of the California gold mines, has had
the singular good fortune to be also among the first to publish correct
and authentic information relating to the silver treasures of Arizona.
His report upon the resources of the new Territory has all the charm to
the reader that his California report had, and its brilliant
predictions will be as fully realized. To Gray and Emory is the country
most indebted for the earliest and most important discoveries.
The agricultural resources of Arizona, are sufficient to sustain a
large mining population, and afford abundant supplies for the great
immigration which will follow the development of its mineral resources.
The whole valley of the Gila, more than four hundred miles in length,
can be made with proper exertion to yield plentiful crops. The Pimos
Indians, who live in villages on the Gila, one hundred and seventy
miles from its mouth, raise large crops of cotton, wheat, and corn, and
have for years supplied the thousands of emigrants who traverse the
Territory en route to California. These Indians manufacture their
cotton into blankets of fine texture and beautiful pattern, which
command a high price. They also grind their corn and wheat, and make
bread. In fact, the Pimos realize in their everyday life something of
our ideas of Aztec civilization. A town will probably grow up just
above the Pimos villages, as there is a rich back country, and the
streams afford a valuable water power for running mills.
The valley of the Santa Cruz traverses the territory from South to
North, sinking near the town of Tueson, and probably finding its way to
the Gila, as a subterranean stream. This valley, of the richest land,
is about one hundred miles long, in many places of great width, and has
on each side of it many rich valleys of limited extent, watered by
streams from the mountains, which flow into the Santa Cruz. The valleys
and Ranches of Arivaca, Sopori, Calabazas, and Tueson, are those at
present most thickly settled. These produce all the fruits known to a
Southern clime--grapes, wheat, corn, and cotton in great abundance. The
San Pedro river and valley is also one of great richness, and is
reported by Lieut. Parke as capable of sustaining a large population.
The Valle de Sauz, still farther East, more limited than the San Pedro
or Santa Cruz, can be made available for a considerable population. The
Mimbres River also can, by a small outlay, be made to irrigate a large
surface and supply a moderate settlement. The various springs laid down
by Gray, Emory, Parke, and Bartlett, will all afford water for small
settlements, and their supply can be much increased by a judicious
outlay of money. The Rio Grande valley is very rich, and in places of
great width. The Mesilla valley already contains a population of about
five thousand souls, and there is ample room for many more.
If, as proposed, the Northern boundary of the Arizona Territory should
enclose the Northern branches of the Gila, an agricultural region will
be opened to settlement sufficient in itself to sustain the population
of an immense agricultural State. Col. Bonneville, who is now at the
head of a large force exploring this region, writes to the Secretary of
War that it is the finest country he has ever seen, "valleys capable of
sustaining a population of twenty thousand each, teeming at every step
with evidences of an immense population long ago-and an ancient and
superior civilization." The Hon. John R. Bartlett says of the
"Salinas," one of the Northern branches of the Gila, that it alone will
supply food for a great State. It must be recollected, in this
connection, that the great mineral wealth of Arizona will call for and
amply repay for the redemption and expensive cultivation of all the
available lands, and that irrigation produces immensely greater crops
than the other method of planting. Throughout the whole of Utah,
irrigation has been resorted to with the greatest success. The soil in
Utah, in no place that the writer saw it, could in any way be compared
to that of the bottom lands of Arizona.
Captain Whipple in his valuable report of exploration for the Pacific
Railroad, published by order of Congress, crossed the upper part of the
region alluded to, and which is watered by the Rio Verde and Salinas.
He fully sustains me in my remarks on those rich valleys.
"We are in the pleasantest region we have seen since leaving the
Choctaw country. Here are clear rivulets, with fertile valleys and
forest trees. The wide belt of country that borders the Black Forest,
and probably extends along the Rio Verde to the Salinas and Gila, bears
every indication of being able to support a large agricultural and
pastoral population. The valley of the Rio Verde is magnificently
wooded with furs and oaks, affording excellent timber. Ancient ruins
are said by trappers to be scattered over its whole length to the
confluence with the Salinas. We, therefore, seem to have skirted the
boundary of a country once populous, and worthy of becoming so again.
Besides the advantages already enumerated, the mountains in this
vicinity bear indications of mineral wealth. Vol. 3, p. 93."
The notes before referred to, in the possession of the writer, speak of
great farming and grazing establishments scattered over the whole face
of the Territory, between 1610 and 1800, which produced abundant crops
of cereals, fruits, and grapes. These statements are confirmed by the
testimony of Major Emory and his report, where he enumerates several of
the most extensive--by Gray, Bartlett, Parke, and Col. Bonneville. Many
of the Ranches, deserted by the Mexicans on account of the Apache
Indians, have upon them large, well-built adobe houses which must have
cost the builders thousands of dollars. Many of these have been
occupied under squatter titles by emigrants within the last few years.
Of others, only the ruins remain, having been destroyed by the
depredations of the Indians, or by the heavy rains of the succeeding
years.
The greater portion of these lands on the Santa Cruz and San Pedro are
covered by Mexican titles--and many of these again by squatter claims.
It is absolutely necessary that Congress should by some wise and speedy
legislation settle, upon some definite basis, the land titles of
Arizona. Until this is done, disorder and anarchy will reign supreme
over the country. The present condition of California is in a great
degree to be attributed to the want of any title to the most valuable
real property in the State, and the millions which have been spent in
fruitless litigation should teach a lesson of great practical value.
Let those Spanish grants and Mexican titles which have been occupied in
good faith be affirmed in the most expeditious and economical manner to
the claimants, and they will immediately pass into American hands, and
become productive. The remainder of the country should then be thrown
open to settlers. No better code of mining law exists than the Spanish,
adopted in the Senate bill introduced by the late General Rusk, and
passed at the last session of Congress. A judicious and liberal
donation law, giving to the actual settler a homestead, and to the
enterprising miner and "prospector" a fair security for the fruit of
his labors, will at once make of Arizona a popular, thriving and
wealthy State, affording new markets for the productions of our
Atlantic States, and yielding annually millions in silver and copper.
In addition to the produce of Arizona, the immediate vicinity of the
agricultural region of Sonora affords an abundant market for all
necessary supplies, including sugar, which is manufactured by the
Mexicans in great quantities from the cane. Guyamas, which one day will
be ours, is one of the largest ports for the export of flour on the
Pacific coast north of Chili. She also exports several millions in
silver annually, which finds its way direct to the English market.
Under an intelligent system, the Sonora mines would yield a hundred
millions a year, and the supply is inexhaustible. If any reader doubts
this statement, refer him to the statistics of Humboldt, Ward, and
Wilson, most unquestioned and valuable authorities. Both Humboldt and
Ward note the fact that the silver deposites grow richer as they are
traced farther North. There can be no doubt that the most extensive and
valuable mines, both of pure silver and silver mixed with copper and
lead, are within the limits of Arizona.
The yield of the silver mines of Mexico, as computed by Ward and
Humboldt from the actual official returns to the Government, from the
conquest to 1803, amounts to the enormous sum of $2,027,955,000, or
more than two BILLIONS Of dollars. Again, Ward says: "I am aware that
many of the statements in this and the preceding books respecting the
mineral riches of the North of New Spain, (Sonora, including the
'Gadsden Purchase,' Chihuahua, and Durango,) will be thought
exaggerated. THEY ARE NOT SO; they will be confirmed by every future
report, and in after years, the public, FAMILIARIZED WITH facts which
are only questioned because they are new, will wonder at its present
incredulity, and regret the loss of advantages which may not always be
within its reach."
Of the present mining operations in the Territory of Arizona, the most
considerable, in point of labor performed and results, is "The Arizona
Copper Mining Co." This company is incorporated by the California
Legislature, with a capital of one million of dollars. The President is
Major Robert Allen, U. S. A. The mines are old, and very celebrated in
Mexico under the name of El-Ajo. This company, at an expense of
$100,000, have supplied their mines with an abundance of water,
extracted several hundred tons of ore, and erected buildings, smelting
furnaces, and other appliances to facilitate their operations. They
employ about one hundred men, mostly Mexican miners. Their supplies of
breadstuffs and beef are obtained by contract from Sonora. These mines
are situated one hundred and thirty miles from the mouth of the Gila
River, and about sixty miles south of it. The ore varies in richness
from thirty to sixty per cent, and the proceeds of some sales in London
were quoted as being the highest prices ever paid for ore in that
market. A portion of this mine is owned by English capitalists, and it
is without doubt one of the most valuable in the world. The profits may
be easily calculated, when it is known that the ore costs delivered in
Swansea, England, not exceeding $125 per ton, and is worth from $200 to
$375 per ton. Of course these profits will be greatly increased when
the company is in a position to smelt its ores at the mine. The Sonora
Exploring and Mining Company was organized in 1856, with a capital of
two million dollars ($2,000,000). Its principal office is in
Cincinnati, Ohio, and its seat of operations at Tubac, in the Santa
Cruz valley. This company is managed in its mining operations by Chas.
D. Poston, Esq., a gentleman of much experience on the Pacific coast,
and of great energy of character.
The Rancho of Arivaca, containing several valuable silver mines, and
seventeen thousand acres of valuable land, has been purchased by this
company. It has also acquired the titles to a number of other valuable
mines of galena ore, and copper containing silver and gold. Hitherto,
the exertions of the company have been directed principally to
explorations and cleaning out the old mines, but they have at present
above ground, ready for smelting, several thousand dollars worth of
their ores. Prof. Booth, U. S. Assayer, as well as other distinguished
authorities, have, after thorough experiment, given to the company
certificates of the great richness of the ores already shipped to the
east. The annual report of the Sonora Mining Co. is full of interest to
the general reader. The Sopori mine is another very valuable property.
It is owned by Messrs. Douglass, Aldrich, and another. Want of capital
has prevented the extensive development of this mine. It affords its
proprietors a handsome profit, worked in the smallest and cheapest
manner. The vein is of great size, has been traced several rods in
length, and pays about one dollar to the pound of ore. The writer has
examined specimens from the "Sopori," taken at random, and so rich is
the ore that the native silver can be cut out of it with a penknife, as
out of a Mexican dollar. Undoubtedly the Sopori mine is destined to
yield hundreds of millions. It is a peculiarity of the ores in this
district that they run near the surface, making mining of comparative
small cost. The Sopori mine is surrounded by a fine country, well
watered and wooded. The "Gadsonia Copper Mining Co.," after taking out
a few tons of exceedingly rich ore--averaging over eighty per
cent.--was obliged to suspend operations on account of the cost of
transportation. When the Territory shall be organized and capital
protected by law, these mines will be worked to advantage. "The Gila
River Copper Mines" are more favorably situated than any other yet
opened, being directly on the Gila River, only twenty-five miles from
its mouth. The ores can be taken from the mine, immediately shipped
upon flat boats or a light draft steamer, and transported down the
Colorado River to the head of the Gulf of California, when they can be
transhipped to England at small cost. Upwards of twenty veins of copper
ore have been opened, and the assays give results varying from 30 to 70
per cent. These mines are owned by Messrs. Hooper, Hinton, Halstead,
and another. Several thousand dollars have been already expended in
prospecting and opening veins, and it was anticipated by the
proprietors that the first cargo would be shipped to Swansea, England,
this year.
Smelting works will eventually be built at the mines, or at Colorado
City, opposite Fort Yuma, and the profits of this company must be very
great. The vicinity of the Colorado, and the abundance of wood and
water, give the proprietors facilities for conducting their operations
at small cost.
Silver mining is also carried on in the vicinity of Mesilla Valley, and
near the Rio Grande. Many other mining operations are constantly being
commenced; but the depredations of the Apache Indians have almost
entirely snatched success from the hard-working miner, who, besides
losing his all, is often massacred in some ferocious manner.
No protection, either civil or military, is extended over the greater
portion of Arizona. This checks the development of all her
resources--not only to her own injury, but that of California and the
Atlantic States--by withholding a market for their productions, and the
bullion which she is fully able to supply to an extent corresponding to
the labor employed in obtaining it.
A. B. Gray, Esq., late U. S. Surveyor under the treaty of Guadalupe
Hidalgo, for running the Mexican Boundary, and subsequently Exploring
Engineer and Surveyor of the Southern Pacific Railroad, has probably
seen more of the proposed Territory of Arizona than any other person,
his statements in reference to that region, embodied in a report to the
Hon., the Secretary of the Interior, from actual field reconnoissances
six years ago, will be read with much interest, particularly as since
then, repeated developments in that country have proved the correctness
of his judgment; his opinions are, therefore, of much importance, as
expressed in his able report. It will be recollected that this was then
Mexican Territory. Colonel Gray says:
"The public, I think have been misled by misrepresentations made in
regard to the resources of the region of country lying along the Gila
and upon the line proposed for a railroad at or near the parallel of 32
degrees north latitude. That portion of country east of the Rio Grande
I can say but little of from personal observation, having been over but
apart of the ground near the eastern division in Texas, and that in the
vicinity of El Paso. At both these points, however, a fine country
exists. Upon the Gila river grows cotton of the most superior kind. Its
nature is not unlike that of the celebrated Sea Island cotton,
possessing an equally fine texture, and, if anything, more of a silky
fibre. The samples I procured at the Indian villages, from the rudely
cultivated fields of the Pimas and Maricopas, have been spoken of as an
extraordinary quality. Wheat, corn, and tobacco, together with beans,
melons, etc., grow likewise upon the banks and in the valleys bordering
the Gila and its tributaries. The sugar cane, too, I believe, will be
found to thrive in this section of the country west of the Rio San
Pedro. A sort of candied preserve and molasses, expressed from the
fruit of the cereus giganteus and agave Americana was found by our
party in 1851, as we passed through the Pinal Llano camps and among the
Gila tribes, to be most acceptable. The candied preserve was a most
excellent substitute for sugar. It is true that there are extensive
wastes to be encountered west of the Rio Grande, yet they are not
deserts of sand, but plains covered at certain seasons of the year with
luxuriant grass, exhibiting green spots and springs not very remote
from each other at all times. There is sufficient water in the Gila and
its branches for all the purposes of irrigation when it is wanted, the
streams being high during the season most needed. The Rio Salado, a
tributary of the Gila, is a bold and far more beautiful river than the
Gila itself, and, from the old ruins now seen there, must have had
formerly a large settlement upon its banks. "To many persons merely
travelling or emigrating across the country, with but one object in
view, and that the reaching their destination on the Pacific, the
country would generally present a barren aspect. But it will be
recollected that the most productive fields in California, before
American enterprise introduced the plough, and a different mode of
cultivation from that of the natives of the country, presented somewhat
similar appearance. Many believed, at first, from the cold and sterile
look of the hills, and the parched appearance of the fields and
valleys, over which the starving coyote is often seen prowling in
search of something to subsist on, that California could never become
an agricultural district, but must depend upon her other resources for
greatness, and trust to distant regions for the necessaries of life
required for her increased population. It was natural enough, too, that
this impression should be created in those accustomed to a different
State of things, and particularly when it is considered that the very
season of blossom and bloom of our Atlantic States was the winter of
California; but these same fields and hills have a very different
appearance in January, February, and March, clothed as they are in the
brightest verdure and no one now will pretend to say that California
does not possess within herself great agricultural as well as mineral
wealth. This, I believe, will some day be the case with the country
from the Rio Grande to the Gulf of California, adjacent to the Gila.
Senate Ex. Doc. No. 55, 33rd Congress, 2nd Session."
* * * * * * * *
In speaking of the resources of this region for a railroad, in the same
report, Gray says:
"The valley of Mesilla, extending from about twelve miles above the
true boundary of the treaty to the parallel of 32 degrees 22 minutes
north latitude, lies wholly within the disputed district, and is, for
its extent, one of the most beautiful and fertile along the whole
course of the Rio Grande. The town of Mesilla, only a few years old,
contains several thousand people, and is a prosperous little place. It
was not settled until after the cession of this territory to us by the
treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo. Portions of the valley are highly
cultivated, and produce the grains and fruits of our most thriving
States. In connexion with the land on the east side of the river, the
valley of the Messilla is capable of sustaining a considerable
population. It is situated centrally with regard to a large district of
country of lesser agricultural capacity. The section of the Rio Grande
in the vicinity of El Paso and the valley of Mesilla, is proverbial for
the production of fine vegetables and fruits. Indeed, about El Paso, it
is a complete garden with flourishing vineyards, equalling in
excellence those of the most celebrated grape growing countries.
"By a judicious disposition of military stations along this line, only
a few troops would be required to protect the great northern frontier
of Sonora and Chihuahua, and enable us to carry out the 11th article of
our late treaty with Mexico more effectually, and at the same time
prevent any depredations which the Indians might be disposed to commit
on the road. Soon after, the settlement of the country would make the
presence of the military unnecessary, either for the safety of a
railway of the security of the frontier. The strong holds of the
Apaches, and their pathway to Mexico, would be cut off.
"A wagon road established from the Gulf of California would enable
supplies to be transported along this line at one-half of the present
cost. The saving of one-third or more distance, through a comparatively
unsettled country, in transportation is an important consideration in
the construction of a railway, more especially when men and materials,
to a great extent, must be brought from very remote points. The
navigation of the Gulf of California is said to be very good. The
trade-winds from the northwest, encountering the highlands of the
peninsula of Lower California, and forming a counter current under its
lee, enable sailing vessels to proceed advantageously along that coast.
Returning, by keeping on the eastern aide, or along the shore of
Sonora, they could avail themselves of the prevailing winds, which
regain their usual direction after sweeping across the wide expanse of
water. The trade of the Gulf, with its pearl fisheries and other
resources, would be speedily developed.
* * * * * * * *
"The advantages of such a thoroughfare are obvious. Five years would
hardly elapse before inestimable benefits would be realized; and,
should war threaten our Pacific possessions, a few days would suffice
to send from the Mississippi valley an army that would defy any force
that the most formidable power could array against us. The fine cotton
region of the Gila, the rich copper, silver, and gold mines of New
Mexico and Sonora would be at once developed, bringing a vast district
of country into cultivation which now presents a fruitless waste, owing
to Indian depredations and the absence of means of communication and
protection. Mexico has tried for a century past to insure safety to her
inhabitants in this region, but notwithstanding the expense she has
incurred in keeping up her garrisons, she has failed to afford them
protection.
"The deserted appearance of the country from El Paso to the Colorado is
no criterion by which to judge of its value. The beautiful valley of
San Xavier, or Santa Cruz, some two years ago when I passed through it,
was entirely deserted. The once thriving towns of Tumacacori and Tubac
had not the sign of a living soul about them except the recent moccasin
track of the Apaches. The orchards and vineyards of the once highly
cultivated fields and gardens bore the marks of gradual decay and
destruction. The ranchos of Calabazas, of San Bernardino, and numerous
other places on this frontier, presented the same melancholy aspect,
the result of the inability of Mexico to protect this portion of
territory from the inroads of the savages. There are now but a few
settlements throughout this district of country, but were it protected
by a power that could and would defend it, what is now a waste in the
hands of the savages might become a thriving country, with safety
insured to its inhabitants." Senate Ex. Doc. No. 55, 33rd Congress, 2nd
Sess.
I quote the following language of Gray, from subsequent explorations
made by him, three years after his first expedition, and contained in
his report to the Southern Pacific Railroad Company. It was chiefly
from the discoveries made by Gray, in this adventurous expedition,
through regions unknown for many years past, between the Rio Grande and
Gulf of California, together with the Gadsden Treaty, that induced
parties at great expense to emigrate there, and commence working the
vast mineral deposites, such as the Arabac silver mines, the Ajo copper
mountain, and others, but which, through lack of proper protection and
means of communication, have been greatly retarded in their development.
After crossing the dividing ridge of the continent west of the Rio
Grande, Gray thus alludes to the country:
"There were large haciendas and fine cattle ranches in this
neighborhood, until a war of extermination was declared by the Apaches
against the Mexicans. Remains of the old San Pedro ranch are seen at
this day; also the "Tres Alamos;" and the ruins of the hacienda of
Babacomeri, whose walls and towers are still standing. These were among
the wealthiest of Sonora in horses, cattle, sheep, etc., but it has
been many years since. It is a fine grazing region, with wild cattle
and mustangs constantly seen roaming over the plains. The district from
San Pedro to Santa Cruz valley, nearly due west from our present
crossing (latitude 31 degrees 34 minutes), will be to the Pacific slope
what the region of Fort Chadbourne, in Texas, will be to the Atlantic.
The mountains and hills are covered with splendid timber of the largest
size, and for all purposes; and the valleys are full of springs, and
the finest grass. To Tubac, a town in the valley of Santa Cruz, it is
69 miles. This is by following the San Pedro about a league, passing
over a few insignificant spurs, and ascending the Rio Babacomeri;
thence continuing westward by a gradual rise over delightful plains to
the divide between that and the Sonoita or Clover creek, and along the
latter, until it loses itself in the porous earth, a mile from the
Santa Cruz river, and by the broad valley of that stream to Tubac."
* * * * * * * *
Of the line of Gray's exploration from the Rio San Pedro, he says:
"It passes through the most desirable region, with the hills and
mountains for forty miles, containing inexhaustible quantities of
timber. We noticed tall cedar and oaks of every description; one kind
more interesting than the others, being a white oak from twenty to
forty feet in the body. Pine and spruce, with superior white ash and
walnut, were found, and the most gigantic cotton-woods, particularly on
the Sonoita. * * * * "The mountains in the neighborhood are filled with
minerals, and the precious metals are said to abound. The famous
Planchas de Plata and Arizona silver mines, which the Count Raouset de
Boulbon attempted to take possession of, are in this section of
country, not many miles below the present limits, and at several of the
old ranchos and deserted mining villages which we visited, were found
the argentiferous galena ore and gold. The Sierra Santa Rita runs along
to the east of the Santa Cruz valley, and forms a part of this
interesting region. It is very high and bold, filled with fertile
valleys and flowing rivulets, and covered with a dense growth of
timber. I saw much of this district, when here in 1851, on the survey
of the boundary."
* * * * * * * *
The country bordering immediately the head of the Gulf of California,
through which Gray was probably the first to penetrate, lies adjacent
to the proposed Arizona Territory, but not a part of the same, being a
portion of the State of Sonora. He thus describes that section:
"The Indians represent rich Placers existing throughout this region,
and large numbers of them had lately come in with considerable
quantities of the dust. They were trading it for trifles to the
Mexicans. I got some specimens of it which was the same as the
California Gold. This was not the time of year (June) for them to work
the mines, but in the fall, after the rain has commenced. The greatest
drawback to the profitable working of the Placers of this district, is
the scarcity of water. If artesian wells succeed, there is little doubt
that it will create an important change. West from Tuseon and Tubac,
towards the Gulf of California, the country presents more the
appearance of a barren waste or desert than any district I have seen.
It nevertheless has occasional oases, with fine grazing lands about
them, and the mountains, which are more broken and detached, have
distinct marks of volcanic origin. The ranges though short, have
generally the same parallel direction as those further east. It is the
country of the Papago Indians, a peaceful and friendly tribe, extending
down to the Gulf coast, where they are mixed up somewhat with the
Cocopas of the Colorado. From Sonoita I explored to the Gulf shore,
near the mouth of Adair Bay. It was 62 miles, following a dry arroya
most of the way, and the point at which I struck the Gulf was in
latitude 31 degrees 36 minutes 34 minutes. The "Bay" is about 15 miles
across, and from all I could learn, 15 miles long, and represented as
having four fathoms of water. It is completely encircled by a range of
sand hills, reaching north-west to the Colorado river and south-east as
far as the eye could discover. These "sables" are probably eighty or
ninety miles in extent, by five to ten broad.
"Notwithstanding it appears to be the most desolate and forlorn-looking
spot for eighty miles around the head of the Gulf, the sand hills
looking like a terrible desert, nature seems even here, where no rain
had fallen for eight months, to have provided for the sustenance of
man, one of the most nutritious and palatable vegetables.
"East of the Tinaja Alta or high tank range, lie the famous Sierras del
Ajo, now United States territory. These mountains derive their name
from the vast deposits of red oxide and green carbonate of copper found
about them, and which the Indians have made use of to paint (ajo)
themselves with. The mines are unquestionably of great value, and must
become important, more particularly from their being situated in the
neighborhood of the contemplated railway. The tall Cereus Giganteus and
Agave Americana are found in abundance. From the latter plant the
natives make the pulque, mezcal and agua-diente; and the petahaya or
cereus, produces a fruit from which is made a very pleasant preserve.
At the Pimo and Maricopa villages are found wheat, corn, tobaco, and
cotton, besides melons, pumpkins, beans, etc. The nature of the soil
for great distances in the Gila valley is of a reddish loam; some parts
coated with a beautiful crystallization of salt, a quarter to half an
inch thick. This seems to be more particularly the case below the
Maricopa villages and toward the Rio Salado. The cotton, of which I
procured specimens, though cultivated by the Indians in the most
primitive manner, exhibited a texture not unlike the celebrated Sea
Island cotton. Its fibre is exceedingly soft and silky, but not of the
longest staple. Large tracts of land on the Gila and in other portions
of this district, appear to possess the same properties of soil; and
where, I have no doubt, the finest cotton will soon be extensively
raised and brought to its highest state of perfection by proper
cultivation."
The climate is thus referred to by Gray:
"One of the most favorable features upon the route in the vicinity of
the 32nd degree proposed for the Pacific railway is, its accessibility
at all times, admitting of labor being performed in the open air at
each season. The nature of the climate through Texas to the Rio Grande
has already been referred to, and from thence to the Santa Cruz valley
half way to the Colorado, over the elevated plateau of the Sierra
Madra, it is equally salubrious and temperate. The rainy season falls
in the summer months, and but seldom is snow seen even upon the
mountain tops. Towards the Colorado river it is much drier and more
torrid, but by no means unhealthy; nor does it prevent out door work
the whole of the day during the heated term of summer.
"The great riches of the country, however, are a total waste at the
present time, but which the Pacific railroad will at once develop, and
make to itself the foundation of a vast revenue. I refer to its
metallic wealth, the silver, gold, and copper mines that abound in
almost every mountain and valley, between the Rio Grande and the Gulf
of California.
"The ores of Chihuahua and Sonora [now Arizona. S. M.] are chiefly
sulphuret (lead or iron), or native silver in porphyritic or stratified
limestone rocks passing at greater depths into igneous rocks. From
loose piles lying upon the surface and evidently picked over, I
procured specimens of silver and copper. Three samples representing
points on the line of our exploration about equi-distant from each
other, viz.: the Rio Grande, the neighborhood of Tubac, and within 90
miles of the junction of the Gila and Colorado rivers, were submitted
to Dr. I. K. Chilton, of New York, for analysis. He found in one sample
of lead ore (argentiferous galena), by fire assay 71 per cent. of lead,
and the "LEAD YIELDED SILVER EQUIVALENT to 128 ounces, 1 dwt. to the
ton" (of 2000 pounds).
"In another, he found the lead obtained from it to yield silver in the
proportion of 72 ounces 5 dwts. to the ton or 2000 pounds.
"The copper specimen was the red oxide, and yielded as follows:
Copper,............ 71.80
Iron,.............. 7.84
Oxygen,............ 12.34
Silicia, Alumina,.. 8.02
------
100 parts.
"The Papagos and Pimas Indians, by proper management, might be made
very useful, in working upon the road where there is not much rock
excavation. They are unlike the Indians of Texas, or the Apaches,
living in villages and cultivating the soil, besides manufacturing
blankets, baskets, pottery, etc. Quiet and peaceable, they have no
fears except from their enemies, the Apaches, and are very industrious,
much more so than the lower order of Mexicans, and live far more
comfortably. It is astonishing with what precision they construct their
acequias--irrigating canals--some of them, the acequias madre, of very
large size, and without the use of levelling apparatus, but simply by
the eye. Their gardens and farms too are regularly ditched and fenced
off into rectangles and circles, with hedges and trees planted as if
done by more enlightened people."