The preceding exercises are only a few of the methods employed by the
workmen in joining pieces together. The experience gained in their
execution will be of great help in the work that follows.
Fig. 106 shows the working drawing for a small frame door for a glass
panel; the details and sections of the pieces required are shown in
Fig. 107.
It must be taken into consideration that this door is actually to fit
into an opening of a given size, and a little forethought will be
necessary to work the material so that when all cutting and fitting is
done the correct size will be the result of the labor expended.
Study the drawing and make out a bill of lumber, noting what work must
be done in order to proceed intelligently with the work.
The outside size of the door is 9 inches by 12 inches, and the width of
the stiles is 2 inches. The width of the top rail is 1½ inches, and the
width of the bottom rail is 2 inches, so that (allowing a little on the
length of the rails so that the tenons would project through the stiles
about ⅛ inch, and the stiles would project beyond the rails about ½
inch, leaving what is known to workmen as horns) the bill of lumber
would be:
{ 2 pieces 13 in × 2 in × 1 in.
Bill of Lumber { 1 piece 9¼ in × 2 in × 1 in.
{ 1 piece 9¼ in × 1½ in × 1 in.
[Illustration: FIG. 106.]
It must also be taken into consideration that the door must be planed
on the edges and the ends when it is all put together; it will be
necessary to allow for this work when the material is being planed;
having the stiles and rails a little over size in width will provide
for this.
The laying out of this exercise is important, for there are several
things to be considered; we must first find out the depth of the rabbet
and the width of the molding before we proceed to lay out the work.
It will be seen from section drawing A, Fig. 107, that the molding
from the edges of the piece to the quirk is ⁵/₁₆ inch, (this is the
depth that the molding plane cuts); the rabbet is also the same depth;
the opening between the stiles is 5 inches; to this must be added the
depth of the molding and rabbet on both sides, which makes the distance
between the shoulders of the rails 5⅝ inches.
A simple rule to follow in laying out work, where pieces are in pairs
or right and left, is to place the pieces together with their faces out
and their edges up.
Placing the rails in this position, lay out the rails. At the end draw
a line across the edges. (It must be remembered that when the pieces
were sawed out, they were left a little longer than the width of the
door, so that the position of the first line is to be determined by
the amount of extra stock left). From this line measure off the width
of the door and mark across the other end. From these lines measure in
the width of the stiles, which is 2 inches; this gives the width of the
opening.
[Illustration: FIG. 107.]
We saw from A, Fig. 107, that the depth of the molding and the rabbet
was ⁵/₁₆ inch; so from the 2 inch line we measure back on each end ⁵/₁₆
inch; this gives the lines from which the shoulder lines are to be
drawn across the faces and the backs of the pieces. Prepare shoulders
for back-saw as directed in other work.
Now, taking the stiles, and placing them together by the rule given,
lay out the lines for the extreme length of the door, and from one end
measure in the width of the top rail (1½ inches). From the other end
measure in the width of the bottom rail (2 inches). From these lines
measure back the length of the mortises. It will be understood that by
measuring is meant that lines are to be drawn.
Lines are also needed on the back edges of the stiles for the mortises,
as the mortise is cut all the way through. To obtain those lines apply
the method given in exercise No. 3; never mark lines across the outside
of the work unless it is absolutely necessary, and then with pencil
only, so that they may be cleaned off when the work is being finished.
The marking of the sides of the mortises and the tenons is done with
the mortise gauge set to the dimensions given in the drawing, the gauge
to be applied to the face side. Cut out mortises and tenons as in
former work, using the ¼ inch mortising chisel which is found in the
tool room.
(All gauging for mortises and tenons having been done from the face
side, and all cutting having been done to the lines, it necessarily
follows that the face side of the door will be flush. This is
absolutely necessary for the molding and the rabbet to match.) Take
the combination plow and set it to cut the rabbet, applying the fence
to the face side and cutting the rabbets out of the corners opposite to
where the plow is placed. See that the shoe is set to stop the plane
cutting when the desired depth is reached.
[Illustration: FIG. 108.]
Fig. 108 shows how this may be done. After cutting the rabbet, stick
the molding (which in this case is called a Gothic or Scotia molding).
Prepare the stiles as shown in Fig. 107, B.
The joining of the molding is to be what is known as coping. This is
done in the following manner: The molding is left projecting beyond
the inside end of the mortises, as shown in Fig. 107, B. The molding
on the rails is to be cut at an angle of 45 degrees. This is done by
taking the templet used in Exercise No. 6 and placing it on the rail
as shown in Fig. 107, C, and cutting the molding with a chisel down to
the tenons. This will give the line by which the coping is to be cut.
The cutting is done by using the gouge, Fig. 109, one that is ground on
the inside preferred; cut the coping deep enough to receive the molding
which projects beyond the mortise, Fig. 107, B. The line which will
show at the joining of the molding on the face of the exercise will
look like a miter joint. This joint has the advantage of always being
close, for no amount of shrinking or swelling will open it.
[Illustration: FIG. 109.]
After all cutting is done, put together and see if all joints fit;
having tenons cut as shown in Fig. 107, C. This allows room for wedges.
The wedges are cut with a back-saw out of a piece of board of the same
thickness as the tenons. Fig. 110 shows how this is to be done.
If the joints are all satisfactory open them enough to allow the glue
brush to go between the shoulders and the stiles; put a little glue
on both sides of the tenons and drive together, putting clamps or
large handscrews on to bring the joints up close; dip the points of
the wedges in glue and drive them between the ends of the mortise and
the edges of the tenon; remove the clamps and let the glue set before
smoothing the sides of the work. The door, when the wedges are driven
and clamps removed, will look as shown in Fig. 111.
[Illustration: FIG. 110.]
[Illustration: FIG. 111.]
The ends of the tenons and horns are sawed off and the edges planed.
The gouge, (Fig. 109), has a blade that is curved in its section the
whole length; gouges are of different sweeps. The bevel which is ground
on the cutting edge may be on the concave or the convex side; and
according to this grinding the tools are known as inside and outside
gouges. The sharpening is done with a slip-stone.
After the glue is hard enough, smooth the surface with the smooth
plane, and then take sand paper and finish the work. Put the sand paper
on a block, being careful not to round the surfaces when using it.