It has already been mentioned that a bead is used in decoration. An
application of the bead as a decoration is given in connection with the
use of the rabbet in this exercise, the bead can be applied to door
frames where glass panels, etc., are to be used.
[Illustration: FIG. 87.]
In Fig. 87 is shown the working drawing. The features in this exercise
to be specially noticed are the method of joining the bead so as to
form a continuous bead around the edge, the method of laying out and
cutting the shoulder so that the opening in the frame will be kept to
size; the mortise and tenon used here is what is called a blind mortise
and tenon.
Having noticed these features, proceed to prepare the material, by
methods previously given, to dimensions called for in the drawing. The
requirements for this exercise are that all measurements be correct,
that all joints fit closely, that the angles be right angles, and that
the work be finished in a neat workmanlike manner.
The material having been prepared, proceed to lay the work out.
Suppose this exercise to be the top of a glass panel door; the pieces
on the sides of a door are called the stiles; the cross-pieces are
called the rails, and, according to the position they occupy, are
called respectively the top rail, the mid-rail, and the bottom rail.
The pieces that stand in the center are known as muntings.
To lay out the work, mark out the mortise on the top of the stile about
1½ inches from the end. It will be noticed that the mortise is not so
long as the top rail is wide; the piece that is cut out of the tenon is
known as a rebate or rabbet. The reason for cutting out this piece and
shortening the mortise is to strengthen the joint by leaving a piece
of solid wood so that the mortise will not be open on the end. Fig. 88
shows the piece marked out for the stile; the arrow heads in the figure
are known as witness marks and show between what lines the cutting is
to be done.
[Illustration: FIG. 88.]
The shoulders on the top rail and on the muntings are to be specially
noticed. In laying out the top rail the opening between the munting and
the stile is 4 inches. The shoulder on the face side of the top rail
reaches to the farthest side of the bead so as to form a close fitting
joint, and the shoulder on the back reaches to the bottom of the glass
rabbet.
In order to keep the opening as called for in the drawing and to miter
the bead so as to make it continuous around the edge, lay out the work
in the following manner: Locate a line on the edge of the rail that
will represent the side of the opening next to the stile, leaving
enough for the tenon; then lay off the width of the opening; draw a
line which will represent the end of the mortise for the munting; mark
the length of the munting mortise. On the inside of each end of the
mortise lay off the width of the bead which is stuck on the munting.
Return to the first line which represents the opening, and add to the
outside of that the width of the bead and rabbet; then from those lines
mark across the face from the line which will represent the bead, and
across the back from the line which represents the depth of the glass
rabbet.
[Illustration: FIG. 89.]
Prepare the shoulder lines for the saw as directed in previous work.
The lines to be drawn on the edge of the rail are shown in Fig. 89.
The shoulders on the munting are prepared in the same way as the rail.
In marking the sides of the mortise and tenon use the _mortise_ gauge
(see Fig. 73).
Cut the mortise and the tenon as directed in previous work, using a
narrow chisel to remove the chips from the mortise. The bead is to be
joined so that it will appear continuous; the method of joining is
called mitering. A miter is made by cutting, at an angle of 45 degrees,
the pieces to be joined.
The practical man will try many methods of cutting material in order
to save time. For instance, if he is to make frames where the corners
are to be mitered, he will make a miter box. This box (which is not a
box at all) is three pieces fastened together to form a bottom and two
sides, all of which must be true before being nailed together; then by
cutting across the sides in both directions with the saw at an angle of
45 degrees and square to the bottom, the so-called miter box is made,
an illustration of which is shown in Fig. 90. Iron miter boxes are now
in general use; of these Fig. 91 is a good representation.
[Illustration: FIG. 90.]
In the mitering of the bead, a templet, which can be made by the
student, is of great service.
[Illustration: FIG. 91.]
A templet is a mould or pattern used as an auxiliary. The templet for
this work is made in the following manner. Take a piece and rabbet out
one corner as shown in Fig. 92; then cut the ends as shown in Fig. 93,
which are at 45 degrees. With this templet placed on the work as shown
in Fig. 94, with a chisel cut off the bead, which protrudes beyond the
templet.
[Illustration: FIG. 92.]
[Illustration: FIG. 93.]
[Illustration: FIG. 94.]
[Illustration: FIG. 95.]
At the mortises remove part of the bead as shown in Fig. 95; then place
the templet in position, and cut to the angle.
Care should be taken to see that the mortises are cut square to the
edges on the ends, so that they will not squeeze the tenon when putting
the work together.
After all cutting and fitting is done glue the work (see note on glue
at the end of the book), and clamp the pieces together with handscrews.
Handscrews are of the form as shown in Fig. 96.
[Illustration: FIG. 96.]
In order further to strengthen this kind of joint, small iron pins
may be driven into the back through the tenon, but they must not come
through the work. The pins may be made by cutting wire brads off to the
required length and driving them in and setting them below the surface
with a nail set. After the glue is set finish off the work with a
smooth plane.