Set the gauge to the given thickness (see drawing for dimension) and
gauge a line on both edges from face side; then plane to gauge lines.
This, if done correctly, will finish the four surfaces. It is sometimes
necessary that the ends of a piece of work should be finished smooth;
the method of procedure is as follows:
Mark (from one end about ¹/₆₄ of an inch) a knife line all around (see
Fig. 46), placing the head of the try-square against the face edge and
the face side only; then take a small block and put behind the exercise
as shown in Fig. 47, fasten in the vise, and plane to the knife lines.
This block will save the corners from breaking.
[Illustration: FIG. 46.]
[Illustration: FIG. 47.]
To finish the other end measure the length and mark as on the first
end. Then if the piece is too long to plane, saw off near the line,
using the back-saw as shown at Fig. 54, and then finish with the plane
to the lines.
[Illustration: FIG. 48.]
In planing care must be taken to see that the plane is held firmly on
the work to secure a true surface. A rocking motion must be avoided. In
order to get the best results see that the front of the plane is held
down with the left hand, also pressing down and forward with the right
hand at the same time, and at the end of the stroke lift the front of
the plane as shown in Fig. 48; never let it drop as in Fig. 49.
A proper and an improper position to stand while planing is shown by
Figs. 50 and 51.
In planing the edge if it is higher on one side than the other, move
the plane over to the high side and plane it down. Fig. 52 shows the
position of the plane.
[Illustration: FIG. 49.]
[Illustration: FIG. 50.]
[Illustration: FIG. 51.]
After the block is planed true and to the correct dimensions, lay out
the lines across the face at the left hand end shown in the drawing and
square the lines down the depth on the edges; then set the gauge and
mark around the end and notch on both edges. Beginners will find it a
little difficult at first to saw a perfectly clean line so as to secure
a sharp corner; by cutting notches with a knife point as shown at Fig.
53, it will be easy to secure sharp corners. Place the back-saw, Fig.
54, in the notch, hold it tightly against the flat side, and saw down
to the desired depth, removing the portion from the end with the rip
saw (see Fig. 55).
[Illustration: FIG. 52.]
[Illustration: FIG. 53.]
To remove the portion between the sawed lines take the chisel, Fig. 56
(the same directions to be used for grinding and sharpening a chisel
as are used for the plane-iron), pare lightly (about half through the
width of the piece), cut down to the gauge line, and then turn the
piece around and finish from the other side, leaving a straight surface
at the bottom of the notch. Be careful not to take too heavy a cut,
for the chisel will be hard to guide if the workman has to exert his
whole strength to push it through the wood. The chisel has a tendency
to go down into the work if the flat side is not used as a guiding
surface; this side, if kept in contact with the solid wood, will insure
a straight surface, and consequently accurate work.
[Illustration: FIG. 54.]
[Illustration: FIG. 55.]
[Illustration: FIG. 56.]
The lining on the exercise is made with the gauge for the lines running
parallel with the edge, with the square and the knife for the lines at
right angles to the edge, and with the bevel, Fig. 57, and the knife
for the oblique lines. Figs. 58 and 59 give methods for finding the
angle of 45 degrees, which is the angle that is used for the oblique
lines.
[Illustration: FIG. 57.]
Too much attention cannot be given to the operations in this exercise,
for in all work that requires material to be prepared, carelessness
in detail and inattention to methods, etc., will always appear in the
finished work.
[Illustration: FIG. 58.]
[Illustration: FIG. 59.]