CHAPTER IV.

BURGOS--_continued_.

The Cloisters; Paintings and Sculptures--The Cid's House; the

Casa del Cordon; the Puerta de Santa Maria--The Theatre and the

Actors--La Cartuja de Miraflores--General Thibaut and the Cid's

bones.

On leaving the room of Juan Cuchiller, you enter another which

is decorated in a very picturesque manner. The walls are

wainscoted with oak and hung with red tapestry, while the ceiling

is _artesonado_, and produces a most pleasing effect. There is

a "Nativity" by Murillo, a "Conception," and a figure of "Our

Saviour" in flowing robes, all exceedingly well painted.

The cloisters are filled with tombs, most of which are enclosed by

strong iron railings placed very close together. These tombs, all

of them belonging to various illustrious personages, are placed

in recesses hollowed out in the thickness of the wall; they are

covered with armorial bearings and decorated with sculpture. On one

of them I observed an excessively beautiful group of the Virgin

Mary and Our Saviour holding a book in his hand, as well as a most

strange and surprising production of the imagination, representing

a fanciful monster, half animal, half arabesque. On all these tombs

are stretched statues the size of life, of knights in armour, or

bishops in full episcopal costume; so truthful are the attitudes

in which they are lying, and so minute are the details, that any

one looking at them through the iron railings might almost mistake

these statues for the persons they represent.

On the jamb of a door, I remarked as I passed along, a charming

little statue of the Virgin, executed in the most delicious manner

and conceived with extraordinary boldness. Instead of the contrite

and modest air that is generally given to the statues and paintings

of the Blessed Virgin, the sculptor has represented her with a

mixed expression of voluptuousness and ecstasy, and intoxicated

with all the pleasure of a woman in the act of conceiving a God.

She is standing up with her head thrown backwards, and seems to

be inhaling with her whole soul and body, and also with the most

original union of passion and purity, the ray of flame which is

breathed upon her by the symbolical dove. It was a difficult task

to produce any novelty in the treatment of a subject that had been

so often used, but for genius nothing is too common.

A detailed description of these cloisters would require a whole

chapter to itself; but, on account of my limited space and the

short time that was at my disposal, the reader will excuse me for

merely mentioning them in this cursory manner, and re-entering the

church, where we will take at hazard, without choice or preference,

the first _chefs-d'œuvre_ we may happen to see on our right and

left; for they are all beautiful and all admirable, and those which

we do not mention are at the least quite as valuable as the rest.

We will first stop before this "Passion of our Lord," carved

in stone by Philip of Burgundy, who, unfortunately, was not a

French artist, as his name or rather his nickname might lead us

to suppose. This bas-relief is one of the largest in the world.

According to the usual custom in Gothic art, it is divided into

several compartments,--namely, the Mount of Olives, the Bearing

of the Cross, and the Crucifixion of the Saviour between the two

Thieves; an immense composition which, for the fineness of the

heads, and the minute accuracy of the details, is equal to the most

delicate and lovely things that Albert Dürer, Hemlinck, or Holbein

ever produced with their miniature-painters' pencils. This stone

epic is terminated by a magnificent "Descent to the Tomb." The

groups of sleeping apostles which occupy the lower compartments of

the Garden of Olives possess almost the same beauty and purity of

style as the prophets and saints of Fra Bartholomew; the heads of

the women at the foot of the cross are remarkable for that pathetic

and mournful look which Gothic art alone could convey, and which

in this instance is united to an uncommon beauty of outline. The

soldiers attract attention by the singularity and savage style of

their apparel, which is that usually employed during the middle

ages in all representations of the Ancients, the Orientals, or the

Jews, whose true costume was then not known; the various postures

in which they are placed are stamped with a bold swaggering air,

which contrasts most happily with the ideality and melancholy of

the other figures. The whole is surrounded by carving as delicate

as the finest jewellery, and of the most incredible good taste

and lightness. This splendid production of the sculptor's art was

finished in 1536.

Since we are on the subject of sculpture, we may as well seize

the opportunity to speak of the stalls in the choir, which, as a

piece of admirable joinery, have not, perhaps, their equals in

the world. The stalls are so many marvels. They represent subjects

in bas-relief from the Old Testament, and are separated from each

other by monsters and fantastic animals shaped like the arms of a

chair. The flat portions are covered with incrustations, the effect

of which is heightened by black hatching, like inlaid enamel-work

on metal. It is impossible for arabesques or caprice to be carried

to a greater length. These stalls contain an inexhaustible mine,

an unheard-of abundance, a never-ending novelty, both of ideas and

forms: they are a new world, a creation of themselves, marvellously

rich and complete; a world in which the plants live, the men bud

forth, a branch ends in a hand, and a leg terminates in foliage;

a world in which the cunning-eyed monster spreads out his taloned

wings, and the monstrous dolphin spouts the water through its

nostrils. They form one inextricable entwining of buds and boughs,

acanthuses, water-lilies, flowers, with chalices ornamented with

tufts and tendrils, of serrated and twisted foliage, fabulous

birds, impossible fish, and extravagant sirens and dragons, of

which no tongue could ever give an idea. The wildest fancy reigns

unrestrained in all these incrustations, whose yellow tone causes

them to stand out from the sombre background of the wood, and

gives them the appearance of the paintings on Etruscan vases; an

appearance which is fully justified by the boldness and primitive

accent of their lines. These designs, from which the pagan spirit

of the Renaissance peeps out, have nothing in common with the

destination of the stalls themselves; in fact, the subject selected

very frequently shows an entire forgetfulness of the sacred

character of the place. They represent either children playing with

masks, women dancing, gladiators wrestling, peasants engaged in the

vintage, young girls teasing or caressing some fanciful monster,

animals playing the harp, or even little boys, in the basin of a

fountain imitating the famous statue at Brussels. Were they but

a little more slender in their proportions, these figures would

be equal to the purest productions of Etruscan art. Unity in the

general appearance, and infinite variety in the details, was the

difficult problem which the artists of the Middle Ages generally

succeeded in solving. Five or six paces farther on, this mass of

woodwork, so remarkable for the wildness of its execution, becomes

grave, solemn, architectural, brown in its tones, and altogether

worthy of serving as a frame to the pale and austere faces of the

canons.

The Chapel of the Constable (_Capilla del Condestable_) forms of

itself a complete church. The tomb of Don Pedro Fernandez Velasco,

Constable of Castile, and that of his wife, occupy the middle

of the building, and are far from being its least attractive

feature: they are of white marble, magnificently sculptured. The

constable is lying in his war armour, enriched with the chastest

arabesques, from which the sacristans take _papier-maché_ casts,

to sell to visitors. The constable's wife has her little dog by

her side, while her gloves, and the brocaded flowers on her gown,

are rendered with the utmost delicacy. Both their heads repose

upon marble cushions, ornamented with their coronets and armorial

bearings. The walls of the chapel are covered with gigantic coats

of arms, while figures placed upon the entablature hold stone

staves for supporting banners and standards. The _retablo_ (which

is the name given to the architectural _façade_ before the altar)

is sculptured, painted, gilt, and covered with a profusion of

arabesques, varied by columns; it represents the Circumcision of

our Saviour, with figures the size of life. To the right, on the

same side as the portrait of Doña Mencia de Mendoza, Countess

of Haro, is a small Gothic altar, coloured, gilt, carved, and

embellished with an infinity of little figures, so light in

appearance, and so graceful in form, that any one might mistake

them for the work of Antonin Moine. On this altar there is a

Christ, carved in jet. The high altar is ornamented with silver

rays and crystal suns, which produce a singularly brilliant

flickering effect. Carved on the roof is a rose of incredible

delicacy.

Enclosed in the wainscoting of the sacristy, near the chapel,

is a Magdalen, said to be by Leonardo da Vinci. The mildness of

the brown half-tints, merging into the light by imperceptible

gradations, the lightness of touch remarkable in the hair, and the

perfect rounding of the arms, render this supposition extremely

probable. In this chapel, also, is preserved the ivory diptych

that the constable used to take with him to the army, and before

which he was accustomed to recite his prayers. The _Capilla del

Condestable_ belongs to the Duke de Frias. Cast a glance, as you

pass, on that statue of Saint Bruno, in coloured wood,--it is by

Pereida, a Portuguese sculptor,--and on that epitaph, which is that

of Villegas, the translator of Dante.

A magnificent and most finely-built staircase, with

splendidly-sculptured monsters, kept us for some minutes riveted

with admiration. I am ignorant whither it leads, or into what

room the small door at its extremity opens, but it is worthy of

the most splendid palace. The high altar in the chapel of the

Duke d'Abrantes is one of the most singular productions of the

imagination which it is possible to behold. It represents the

genealogical tree of Jesus Christ. This strange idea is carried out

in the following manner:--The patriarch Abraham is lying at the

bottom of the composition, and in his fertile breast are placed

the spreading roots of an immense tree, each branch of which bears

an ancestor of Jesus, and is subdivided into as many branches

as that ancestor had descendants. The summit is occupied by the

Virgin Mary on a throne of clouds, while the sun, the moon, and

a multitude of gold and silver stars, shine through the foliage.

It is impossible to think without a shudder at the immense amount

of patience which must have been required to cut out all these

leaves, chisel all these folds, and make all these personages stand

out so prominently. This _retablo_, carved in the manner we have

described, is as high as the _façade_ of a house, that is to say,

at least thirty feet, if we include the three stories, the second

of which represents the crowning of the Virgin, and the third the

Crucifixion, with St. John and the Virgin. The sculptor is Rodrigo

del Haya, who lived in the middle of the sixteenth century.

The Chapel of Santa Tecla is the strangest structure imaginable.

The object both of architect and sculptor seems to have been to

crowd as many ornaments as possible into the least space, and

they have completely succeeded; for I defy the greatest advocate

of ornament to find space enough in the whole chapel for a single

rose or a single flower more. It is the most wonderful and most

charming specimen of the richest description of bad taste. It is

one mass of twisted spiral columns, surrounded by vine-shoots, of

endless volutes, of cherubim's heads and shoulders with a pair of

wings sticking out like the ends of a neck-tie, of large masses of

clouds, of flames rising from censers and blown about by the wind,

of rays spread out in the shape of a fan, and of endive-plants

in full bloom and most luxuriant growth, all gilt and painted

in natural colours with the pencil of a miniature-painter. The

flower-work of the drapery is imitated thread for thread, and point

for point, with frightful accuracy. Santa Tecla, who is tied to the

stake with the flames rising around her on all sides, and a number

of Saracens in extravagant costumes exciting them, is represented

as raising towards Heaven her beautiful enamel eyes, and holding

in her flesh-coloured hand a large holly-branch, twisted after the

usual Spanish fashion. The roof is ornamented in the same style.

The rest of the chapel is occupied by other altars, which, although

smaller, are quite as elaborate as that which we have described.

But the whole fabric is deficient in the peculiar delicacy of

Gothic art, as well as in the charming characteristics of the

period of the Renaissance; richness is substituted for purity of

outline; it is still very beautiful, however, like everything

carried to excess, but yet complete in its own peculiar style.

The organs, which are of a formidable size, have rows of pipes laid

transversely, like so many cannon with their muzzles pointed at

you; they look very menacing and warlike. The private chapels have

each an organ, only of a smaller size. In the _retablo_ of one of

these chapels we beheld a painting of such exceeding beauty, that

I am even now at a loss to what master to ascribe it, unless it be

to Michael Angelo. This magnificent work of art possesses, most

undeniably, all the characteristic marks of the Florentine school,

when in its most flourishing state, and would form the principal

attraction in any gallery however rich. Michael Angelo, however,

hardly ever painted in oil colours, and his pictures are fabulously

scarce; I am inclined to think that it was painted by Sebastian del

Piombo, after a cartoon, and on a drawing of this sublime artist.

It is well known that Michael Angelo was jealous of Raphael's

success, and that he sometimes employed Sebastian del Piombo,

in order to unite colouring to drawing, and thus beat his young

rival. However this may be, it is very certain that the picture is

admirable. The Virgin Mary is represented seated, with her drapery

disposed in majestic folds; she is covering with a transparent

scarf the divine form of the infant Jesus, who is standing up

by her side. From out the ultramarine of the sky two angels are

contemplating her in silence, while in the background is seen a

severe landscape, with some rocks and fragments of walls. The head

of the Virgin possesses an amount of majesty, serenity, and force,

of which it is utterly impossible to convey an adequate idea by

mere words. The lines which join the neck to the shoulders are so

pure, so chaste, and so noble, the face breathes such an expression

of sweet maternal satisfaction, the hands are so divinely treated,

and the feet are so remarkable for their elegance and grand style,

that I found it almost impossible to tear myself away. Add to

this marvellous design, simple, solid, well-sustained colouring,

without any claptrap devices, or little tricks of chiaroscuro, but

a certain look of fresco which harmonizes perfectly with the tone

of the architecture around, and you have a _chef-d'œuvre_ such as

is to be found only in the Florentine or Roman school.

There is also in the cathedral at Burgos a "Holy Family," without

the painter's name. I strongly suspect it to be the production of

Andrea del Sarto. There are likewise some Gothic paintings on wood,

by Cornelis van Eyck; the fellows to them are in the gallery at

Dresden. The works of the German school are not uncommon in Spain

and some of them are exceedingly fine. We will seize the present

opportunity to mention some pictures by Fra Diego de Leyva, who

became a Carthusian friar in the _Cartuja_ of Miraflores when

he had already reached his fifty-fourth year. Among his other

compositions we may notice the Martyrdom of Santa Casilda. The

executioner has cut off both her breasts, and the blood is gushing

forth from the two large red places which mark the spot whence

the flesh has been removed; the two breasts are lying at the

Saint's side, while she herself is looking with an expression of

feverish and convulsive ecstasy at a tall angel, with a thoughtful,

melancholy face, who has brought her a palm-branch. These frightful

pictures of martyrdom are very frequently to be met with in Spain,

where the love of the real and the true in art is carried to the

greatest lengths. The artist will not spare you one single drop of

blood; you must see the severed nerves shrinking back, you must see

the quivering of the living flesh, whose dark purple hue contrasts

strongly with the bluish, bloodless whiteness of the skin, you

must be shown the vertebræ cut through by the executioner's blade,

and the gaping wounds that vomit forth water and blood from their

livid mouths; every detail is rendered with horrible truthfulness.

Ribera has painted some things in this style, sufficient to make

El Verdugo[4] himself start back with affright. In sober truth,

we require all the dreadful beauty and diabolical energy which

characterize this great master, to enable us to support this

flaying and slaughtering school of painting, which seems to have

been invented by some hangman's assistant for the amusement of

cannibals. We actually lose all desire to suffer martyrdom; and the

angel, with his palm-branch, strikes us as a very poor compensation

for such atrocious torments. But sometimes Ribera denies even this

consolation to his victims, and allows them to writhe about in

agony, like so many serpents, in the dull, menacing shade, that is

not illuminated by a single ray from heaven.

The craving for the true, however revolting, is a characteristic

feature of Spanish art. Idealism and conventionality are foreign

to the genius of this people, who are altogether deficient in

everything like æsthetic feeling. For them sculpture is not

sufficient; they require their statues to be coloured, and their

Virgins to be painted and clothed in real clothes. To please

them, the material illusion can never be carried too far; and

their unbridled passion for the real causes them sometimes to

overstep the line which separates the sculptor's studio from the

boiling-room of the wax-work exhibitor.

The celebrated "Christ of Burgos," which is held in such

veneration, and which must not be shown until the tapers are

lighted, is a striking example of this strange taste. It is not

formed of coloured stone or wood, but actually consists of a human

skin (at least, so they say), stuffed in the most artistic manner.

The hair is real hair; the eyes are furnished with eye-lashes,

the crown of thorns is really composed of thorns, and, in a word,

not one detail is omitted. Nothing can be more lugubrious, or

more disagreeable to behold than this crucified phantom, with its

ghastly life-like look and its death-like stillness. The skin, of a

brownish, rusty tinge, is streaked with long lines of blood, which

are so well imitated that you might almost think they were actually

trickling down. It requires no very great effort of the imagination

to believe the legend which affirms that this miraculous figure

bleeds every Friday.

Instead of flying drapery twisted round the body, the Burgalise

Christ has got on a white tunic, embroidered with gold, and

descending from the waist to the knees. This style of dress

produces a strange effect, especially upon us who are not used to

it. There are three ostrich-eggs encased in the foot of the cross

as a sort of symbolical ornament, the meaning of which I have

forgotten, however, unless they are intended to convey an allusion

to the Trinity, which is the principle and germ of all things.

On leaving the cathedral we felt dazzled and crushed with

_chefs-d'œuvre_: we were intoxicated with them; we could not

admire any longer: it was only by the greatest effort that we were

enabled to cast a careless glance on the arch erected to Fernan

Gonzalez: it is an experiment made in the classical style, at the

commencement of the Renaissance period, by Philip of Burgundy. We

were also shown the Cid's house; when I say the Cid's house, I

express myself badly; I mean the place where his house may have

been, and which is a square place enclosed by posts. There is not

the least vestige left which can authorize the general belief; but

then, on the other hand, nothing absolutely proves the contrary;

and, such being the case, there is no harm in our trusting the

tradition. The _Casa del Cordon_, so called from the rope which

winds round the doors, borders the windows, and serpentines through

the various ornaments, is worth examining. It is the residence

of the political chief of the province, and we met there sundry

alcades of the environs, with features that would have struck

us as rather suspicious had we happened to come across them in

some lonely spot, and who would have done well to ask themselves

for their papers before allowing themselves to proceed without

molestation on their road.

[Illustration: PUERTA DE SANTA MARIA.]

The _Puerta de Santa Maria_, erected in honour of Charles V., is a

remarkable piece of architecture. Although the statues placed in

the niches are short and squat, they have an appearance of force

and vigour which amply compensates for any defect in gracefulness

of form. It is a great pity that this superb triumphal arch should

be obstructed and disfigured by a number of plaster walls, which

are placed there under the pretence of their being fortifications;

they should immediately be pulled down. Near this gate is the

public promenade on the banks of the Arlanzon, a very respectable

river at least two feet deep, which is a great depth for Spain.

The promenade is ornamented with four very tolerable statues,

representing four kings or counts of Castile--namely, Don Fernan

Gonzalez, Don Alonzo, Don Enrique II., and Don Fernando I. I have

now mentioned almost everything worth seeing at Burgos. The theatre

is even more primitive than the one at Vittoria. The evening I was

there, the performance consisted of a piece in verse, entitled "El

Zapatero y el Rey" (the Cobbler and the King), by Zorilla, a young

and very talented author, who is very popular in Madrid, and who

has already published seven volumes of poetry much extolled for

its harmony and style. All the places, however, had been taken

beforehand, so that we were obliged to renounce the pleasure we had

promised ourselves, and wait until the next night for the "Three

Sultanas," which, we were informed, was a piece interspersed with

singing and Turkish dances of the most transcendent comicality. The

actors did not know a word of their parts, and the prompter spoke

so loudly that he completely drowned their voices. I may mention

that the prompter is protected by a sort of tin shell, arched

like the roof of an oven, to shield him against the _patatas_,

_manzanas_, and _cascaras de naranja_--potatoes, apples, and

orange-peel--with which the Spanish public, as impatient a public

as ever existed, never fails to bombard those actors who displease

them. Each person brings his store of projectiles in his pocket: if

the actors play well, the various vegetables return to the saucepan

and serve to augment the _puchero_.

For one moment, we thought we had at length discovered the true

type of a Spanish beauty in one of the three sultanas--large,

arched, black eyebrows, sharp nose, a long oval face, and red lips;

but an obliging neighbour informed us that she was a young French

girl.

Before leaving Burgos, we paid a visit to the Cartuja de

Miraflores, situated at half a league from the town. A few poor

old decrepit monks have been allowed to await their death there.

Spain has lost a great deal of its romantic character by the

suppression of the monks, and I do not see that it has gained much

in other respects. A number of magnificent edifices, which can

never be replaced, and which were formerly preserved in all their

integrity, will fall into a state of dilapidation, and crumble

to the ground, adding their ruins to those which are already so

common in this unhappy country; and thus unheard-of treasures in

the way of statues, pictures, and objects of art of all kinds, will

be lost, without any one deriving the least advantage. It strikes

me that our Revolution might be imitated in other things than its

stupid Vandalism. Murder each other if you will, for the ideas you

imagine that you possess; fatten with your bodies the meagre plains

ravaged by war--that is all very well; but the stone, the marble

and the bronze touched by genius, are sacred--at least spare them.

In two thousand years your civil dissensions will all be forgotten,

and the future will only know that you were once a great people by

some marvellous fragments dug from out a heap of ruins.

The Cartuja is situated upon a hill. Its exterior is austere and

simple, consisting of grey stones and a tile roof, that says

nothing to the eyes, but everything to the imagination. In the

interior are long, cool, silent cloisters, with whitewashed walls,

and a number of doors leading to the various cells, and windows

with leaden casements, containing different religious subjects on

stained glass, especially a remarkable composition representing the

Ascension. The body of our Saviour has already disappeared; there

is nothing left but his feet, the marks of which are seen on a rock

which is surrounded by pious personages lost in admiration.

The prior's garden is situated within a little courtyard, in the

midst of which is a fountain, from which the water, clear as

crystal, runs out drop by drop. A few stray sprigs of the vine

somewhat enliven the melancholy aspect of the walls, while a

few tufts of flowers and clusters of plants are seen springing

up here and there, in picturesque disorder, pretty much as they

were sown by the hand of Chance. The prior, an old man, with a

noble, venerable face, and dressed in a garment resembling as

much as possible a gown (for monks are not allowed to preserve

their costume), received us very politely, and, as it was not very

warm, made us sit around the brazero, and offered us cigarettes

and _azucarillos_, with cool spring water. An open book was lying

on the table: I took the liberty to glance into it. It was the

"Bibliotheca Cartuxiana," a collection of all the passages of the

various authors who have written in praise of the order and lives

of the Carthusian monks. The margin was covered with annotations,

written in that stiff, formal, priest-like hand, rather large,

which appeals so strongly to the imagination, but says nothing to

the hasty and offhand man of the world. This poor old monk, left

thus, out of pity, in a deserted convent, the vaults of which will

soon fall over his unknown grave, was still dreaming of the glory

of his order, and inscribing with a trembling hand, in the blank

spaces of the book, some passage or other that had either been

forgotten, or recently been found.

The cemetery is shaded by two or three large yew-trees, like those

in the Turkish cemeteries. It contains four hundred and nineteen

monks, who have died since the foundation of the convent. The

ground is covered by thick luxuriant grass, and neither tomb,

cross, nor inscription, is to be seen. There do the good monks

all lie together, as humble in death as they were in life. This

cemetery, without a single name, has something calm and silent

about it that is refreshing to the soul. A fountain situated in the

midst of it sheds a stream of limpid tears, as bright as silver,

for these poor creatures, all dead and forgotten. I took a draught

of the water, filtered through the ashes of so many holy persons;

it was pure, and icy as death.

But though the dwelling of man is poor, that of God is rich. In

the middle of the nave are placed the tombs of Don Juan II. and

Queen Isabella, his wife. The spectator is lost in astonishment

at the fact of human patience ever having completed such a work.

Sixteen lions, two at each angle, support eight shields with the

royal arms, and serve as base to the structure. Add to these a

proportionate number of virtues, allegorical figures, apostles,

and evangelists, imagine a countless number of branches, birds,

animals, scrolls of arabesque and foliage, twisting and twining

in every direction, and you will yet have but a feeble notion of

this prodigious masterpiece. The crowned statues of the king and

queen are lying at full length on the top of the tomb. The king is

holding his sceptre in his hand, and is enveloped in a long robe,

guilloched and figured with the most incredible delicacy.

The tomb of the Infante Alonzo is on the left-hand side of the

altar. The Infante is represented kneeling before a fall-stool. A

vine, with open spaces, in which little children gathering grapes

are suspended, creeps, in festoons of the most capricious and

endless variety around the Gothic arch that serves as a framework

to the composition, half buried in the thickness of the wall. These

marvellous monuments are in alabaster, and are due to the chisel of

Gil de Siloe, who also executed the sculptures for the high altar.

To the right and left of the latter, which is a most beautiful

work of art, are two open doors, through which you perceive two

Carthusian friars in the white robe of their order, standing

motionless before you. At first sight you are inclined to take

these two figures, which are probably by Diego de Leyva, for living

beings. The general decoration of the building is completed by

stalls in the Berruguete style, and it is a matter of astonishment

for the visitor to find all these wonders in so deserted a spot.

From the top of the hill we were shown, in the distance, San Pedro

de Cardeña, which contains the tomb of the Cid and of his wife,

Doña Ximena. By the way, in connexion with this tomb there is a

strange anecdote told, which I will here relate, without, however,

answering for the truth of it.

During the French invasion, General Thibaut conceived the idea

of having the Cid's bones removed from San Pedro de Cardeña to

Burgos. His intention was to place them in a sarcophagus on the

public promenade, in order that the presence of these illustrious

remains might inspire the people with sentiments of heroism and

chivalry. It is added, that the gallant general, in a fit of

warlike enthusiasm, placed the hero's bones in his own bed, in

order that he might elevate his courage by this glorious proximity,

a precaution of which he had no need. The project was not put into

execution, and the Cid returned to Doña Ximena's side, at San Pedro

de Cardeña, where he has since remained; but one of his teeth,

which had fallen out, and which had been put away in a drawer,

had disappeared, without any one being able to find out what had

become of it. The only thing that was wanting to complete the Cid's

glory, was that he should be canonized, which he would have been,

had he not, before his death, expressed the Arabo-heretical and

suspicious wish that his famous steed, Barbieca, should be buried

with him. This caused his orthodoxy to be doubted. Talking of the

Cid, I must remark to Monsieur Casimir Delavigne that the name of

the hero's sword is Tizona, and not Tizonade, which rhymes rather

too closely with lemonade. I say this, however, without any desire

of damaging the Cid's fame, who, to his merit as a hero, added that

of inspiring so poetically the unknown author of the Romancero, as

well as Guilhen de Castro, Diamante, and Pierre Corneille.

Wanderings in Spain · 第 4 / 15 章