At the forks I found many things of interest. The branch with dark

waters from the barren slopes was already swollen to many times its

normal volume and was thick with sediment from the fire-scarred

region. The stream with white waters from the forest had risen just a

trifle, and there was only a slight stain visible. These noticeable

changes were produced by an hour of rain. I dipped several canfuls

from the deforested drainage fork, and after each had stood half a

minute the water was poured off. The average quantity of sediment

remaining was one fifth of a canful, while the white water from the

forested slope deposited only a thin layer on the bottom of the can.

It was evident that the forest was absorbing and delaying the water

clinging to its soil and sediment. In fact, both streams carried so

much suggestive and alluring news concerning storm effects on the

slopes above that I determined to hasten on in order to climb over and

watch them while they were dashed and drenched with rain.

[Illustration: AMONG THE CLOUDS

Continental Divide, near Long's Peak]

Planning to return and give more attention to the waters of both

branches at this place, I started to inspect first the forested sides.

The lower of these slopes were tilted with a twenty to twenty-five per

cent grade, and covered with a primeval Engelmann spruce forest of

tall, crowding trees, the age of which, as I had learned during

previous visits, was only a few years less than two centuries.

The forest floor was covered with a thick carpet of litter,--one which

the years had woven out of the wreckage of limbs and leaves. This,

though loosely, coarsely woven, has a firm feeling when trodden during

dry weather. To-day however, the forest floor seemed recently

upholstered. It is absorbent; hence the water had filled the

interstices and given elasticity. I cleared away some of this litter

and found that it had an average depth of fifteen inches. The upper

third lay loosely, but below it the weave was more compact and much

finer than that on or near the surface. I judged that two inches of

rain had fallen and had soaked to an average depth of eight inches. It

was interesting to watch the water ooze from the broken walls of this

litter, or humus, on the upper sides of the holes which I dug down

into it. One of these was close to a bare, tilted slope of granite. As

I stood watching the water slowly dripping from the broken humus and

rapidly racing down the rocks, the thought came to me that, with the

same difference in speed, the run-off from the deforested land might

be breaking through the levees at New Orleans before the water from

these woods escaped and got down as far as the sawmill.

The forest might well proclaim: "As long as I stand, my countless

roots shall clutch and clasp the soil like eagles' claws and hold it

on these slopes. I shall add to this soil by annually creating more. I

shall heave it with my growing roots, loosen and cover it with litter

rugs, and maintain a porous, sievelike surface that will catch the

rain and so delay and distribute these waters that at the foot of my

slope perennial springs will ever flow quietly toward the sea. Destroy

me, and on stormy days the waters may wash away the unanchored soil as

they run unresisted down the slopes, to form a black, destructive

flood in the home-dotted valley below."

The summit of the forested slope was comparatively smooth where I

gained it, and contained a few small, ragged-edged, grassy spaces

among its spruces and firs. The wind was blowing and the low clouds

pressed, hurried along the ground, whirled through the grassy places,

and were driven and dragged swiftly among the trees. I was in the

lower margin of cloud, and it was like a wet, gray night. Nothing

could be seen clearly, even at a few feet, and every breath I took was

like swallowing a saturated sponge.

These conditions did not last long, for a wind-surge completely rent

the clouds and gave me a glimpse of the blue, sun-filled sky. I

hurried along the ascending trend of the ridge, hoping to get above

the clouds, but they kept rising, and after I had traveled half a mile

or more I gave it up. Presently I was impressed with the height of an

exceptionally tall spruce that stood in the centre of a group of its

companions. At once I decided to climb it and have a look over the

country and cloud from its swaying top.

When half way up, the swift manner in which the tree was tracing

seismographic lines through the air awakened my interest in the trunk

that was holding me. Was it sound or not? At the foot appearances gave

it good standing. The exercising action of ordinary winds probably

toughens the wood fibres of young trees, but this one was no longer

young, and the wind was high. I held an ear against the trunk and

heard a humming whisper which told only of soundness. A blow with

broad side of my belt axe told me that it rang true and would stand

the storm and myself.

The sound brought a spectator from a spruce with broken top that stood

almost within touching distance of me. In this tree was a squirrel

home, and my axe had brought the owner from his hole. What an angry,

comic midget he was, this Frémont squirrel! With fierce whiskers and a

rattling, choppy, jerky chatter, he came out on a dead limb that

pointed toward me, and made a rush as though to annihilate me or to

cause me to take hurried flight; but as I held on he found himself

more "up in the air" than I was. He stopped short, shut off his

chatter, and held himself at close range facing me, a picture of

furious study. This scene occurred in a brief period that was

undisturbed by either wind or rain. We had a good look at each other.

He was every inch alive, but for a second or two both his place and

expression were fixed. He sat with eyes full of telling wonder and

with face that showed intense curiosity. A dash of wind and rain ended

our interview, for after his explosive introduction neither of us had

uttered a sound. He fled into his hole, and from this a moment later

thrust forth his head; but presently he subsided and withdrew. As I

began to climb again, I heard muffled expletives from within his tree

that sounded plainly like "Fool, fool, fool!"

The wind had tried hard to dislodge me, but, seated on the small limbs

and astride the slender top, I held on. The tree shook and danced;

splendidly we charged, circled, looped, and angled; such wild,

exhilarating joy I have not elsewhere experienced. At all times I

could feel in the trunk a subdued quiver or vibration, and I half

believe that a tree's greatest joys are the dances it takes with the

winds.

Conditions changed while I rocked there; the clouds rose, the wind

calmed, and the rain ceased to fall. Thunder occasionally rumbled, but

I was completely unprepared for the blinding flash and explosive crash

of the bolt that came. The violent concussion, the wave of air which

spread from it like an enormous, invisible breaker, almost knocked me

over. A tall fir that stood within fifty feet of me was struck, the

top whirled off, and the trunk split in rails to the ground. I quickly

went back to earth, for I was eager to see the full effect of the

lightning's stroke on that tall, slender evergreen cone. With one

wild, mighty stroke, in a second or less, the century-old tree tower

was wrecked.

Leaving this centenarian, I climbed up the incline a few hundred feet

higher and started out through the woods to the deforested side.

Though it was the last week in June, it was not long before I was

hampered with snow. Ragged patches, about six feet deep, covered more

than half of the forest floor. This was melting rapidly and was

"rotten" from the rain, so that I quickly gave up the difficult task

of fording it and made an abrupt descent until below the snow-line,

where I again headed for the fire-cleared slopes.

As I was leaving the wood, the storm seemed to begin all over again.

The rain at first fell steadily, but soon slackened, and the lower

cloud-margins began to drift through the woods. Just before reaching

the barrens I paused to breathe in a place where the trees were well

spaced, and found myself facing a large one with deeply furrowed bark

and limbs plentifully covered with short, fat, blunt needles. I was at

first puzzled to know what kind it was, but at last I recognized it as

a Douglas fir or "Oregon pine." I had never before seen this species

at so great an altitude,--approximately ten thousand feet. It was a

long distance from home, but it stood so contentedly in the quiet rain

that I half expected to hear it remark, "The traditions of my family

are mostly associated with gray, growing days of this kind."

Out on the barren slopes the few widely scattered, fire-killed,

fire-preserved trees with broken arms stood partly concealed and

lonely in the mists. After zigzagging for a time over the ruins, I

concluded to go at once to the uppermost side and thence down to the

forks. But the rain was again falling, and the clouds were so low and

heavy that the standing skeleton trees could not be seen unless one

was within touching distance. There was no wind or lightning, only a

warm, steady rain. It was, in fact, so comfortable that I sat down to

enjoy it until a slackening should enable me better to see the things

I most wanted to observe.

There was no snow about, and three weeks before at the same place I

had found only one small drift which was shielded and half-covered

with shelving rock. The dry Western air is insatiable and absorbs

enormous quantities of water, and, as the Indians say, "eats snow."

The snowless area about me was on a similar slope and at about the

same altitude as the snow-filled woods, so the forest is evidently an

effective check upon the ravenous winds.

Now the rain almost ceased, and I began to descend. The upper gentle

slopes were completely covered with a filmy sheet of clear water which

separated into tattered torrents and took on color. These united and

grew in size as they progressed from the top, and each was separated

from its companions by ridges that widened and gulches that deepened

as down the sides they went. The waters carried most of the eroded

material away, but here and there, where they crossed a comparatively

level stretch, small deposits of gravel were made or sandbars and

deltas formed.

Occasionally I saw miniature landslides, and, hoping for a larger one

to move, I hurried downward. Knowing that the soil is often deep at

the foot of crags on account of contributions from above, together

with the protection from erosion which the cliffs gave, I endeavored

to find such a place. While searching, I had occasion to jump from a

lower ledge on a cliff to the deposit below. The distance to the slope

and its real pitch were minimized by the mists. After shooting through

the air for at least thrice the supposed distance to the slope, I

struck heavily and loosened several rods of a landslide. I tumbled off

the back of it, but not before its rock points had made some

impressions.

I sought safety and a place of lookout on a crag, and picked bits of

granite gravel from my anatomy. Presently I heard a muffled creaking,

and looked up to see a gigantic landslide starting. At first it moved

slowly, seemed to hesitate, then slid faster, with its stone-filled

front edge here and there doubling and rolling under; finally the

entire mass broke into yawning, ragged fissures as it shot forward and

plunged over a cliff. Waiting until most of the straggling, detached

riffraff had followed, I hastened to examine the place just evacuated.

In getting down I disturbed a ground-hog from his rock point, and

found that he was in the same attitude and position I had seen him

holding just before the slide started, so that the exhibition had

merely caused him to move his eyes a little.

In the cracks and crevices of the glaciated rock-slope from which this

mass had slid, there were broken, half-decayed roots and numerous

marks which showed where other roots had held. It seems probable that

if the grove which sustained them had not been destroyed by fire, they

in turn would have anchored and held securely the portion of land

which had just slipped away.

I went over the lower slopes of the burned area and had a look at

numerous new-made gullies, and near the forks I measured a large one.

It was more than a hundred feet long, two to four feet wide, and, over

the greater part of its length, more than four feet deep. It was

eroded by the late downpour, and its misplaced material, after being

deposited by the waters, would of itself almost call for an increase

of the river and harbor appropriations.

Late in the afternoon, with the storm breaking, I stopped and watched

the largest torrent from the devastated region pour over a cliff. This

waterfall more nearly represented a liquefied landslide, for it was

burdened with sediment and spoils. As it rushed wildly over, it

carried enormous quantities of dirt, gravel, and other earthy

wreckage, and some of the stones were as large as a man's hat. Now and

then there was a slackening, but these momentary subsidences were

followed by explosive outpourings with which mingled large pieces of

charred or half-decayed wood, sometimes closely pursued by a small

boulder or some rock-fragments. Surely, these deforested slopes were

heavy contributors to the millions of tons of undesirable matter that

annually went in to fill the channel and vex the current of the

Mississippi!

These demonstrations brought to mind a remark of an army engineer to

the effect that the "Western forest fires had resulted in filling the

Missouri River channel full of dissolved Rocky Mountains." The action

of the water on this single burned area suggested that ten thousand

other fireswept heights must be rapidly diminishing. At all events, it

is evident that, unless this erosion is stopped, boats before long

will hardly find room to enter the Mississippi. It now became easier

to account for the mud-filled channel of the great river, and also for

the innumerable bars that display their broad backs above its

shallow, sluggish water. Every smooth or fluted fill in this great

stream tells of a ragged gulch or a roughened, soilless place

somewhere on a slope at one of its sources.

What a mingling of matter makes up the mud of the Mississippi,--a soil

mixture from twenty States, the blended richness of ten thousand

slopes! Coming up the "Father of Waters," and noting its obstructions

of sediment and sand, its embarrassment of misplaced material, its

dumps and deposits of soil,--monumental ruins of wasted

resources,--one may say, "Here lies the lineal descendant of Pike's

Peak; here the greater part of an Ohio hill"; or, "A flood took this

from a terraced cotton-field, and this from a farm in sunny

Tennessee." A mud flat itself might remark, "The thoughtless lumberman

who caused my downfall is now in Congress urging river improvement";

and the shallow waters at the big bend could add, "Our once deep

channel was filled with soil from a fire-scourged mountain. The

minister whose vacation fire caused this ruin is now a militant

missionary among the heathen of Cherry Blossom land."

Wondering if the ouzel's boulder had been rolled away, or if the deep

hole above it, where the mill men caught trout, had been filled with

wash, I decided to go at once and see, and then return for a final

look about the forks. Yes, the boulder was missing, apparently buried,

for the hole was earth-filled and the trout gone. So it was evident

that forests were helpful even to the fish in the streams. I took off

my hat to the trees and started back to the junction. On the way I

resolved to tell the men in the mill that a tree is the most useful

thing that grows, and that floods may be checked by forests.

The storm was over and the clouds were retreating. On a fallen log

that lay across the main stream I lingered and watched the dark and

white waters mingle. The white stream was slowly rising, while the

dark one was rapidly falling. In a few days the one from the barren

slopes would be hardly alive, while the other from among the trees

would be singing a song full of strength as it swept on toward the

sea.

[Illustration: FULL STREAMS]

The forest-born stream is the useful and beautiful one. It has a

steady flow of clear water, and fishermen cheerfully come to its

green, mossy banks. The buildings along its course are safe from

floods, and are steadily served with the power of its reliable flow;

its channel is free from mud and full of water; it allows the busy

boats of commerce freely to come and go; in countless ways it serves

the activities of man. It never causes damage, and always enriches and

gladdens the valley through which it flows on to the sea.

A song roused me from my revery. The sky was almost clear, and the

long, ragged shadows of the nearest peaks streamed far toward the

east. Not a breath of air stirred. Far away a hermit thrush was

singing, while a thousand spruces stood and listened. In the midst of

this a solitaire on the top of a pine tree burst out in marvelous

melody.

The Fate of a Tree Seed

The Fate of a Tree Seed

The ripened seeds of trees are sent forth with many strange devices

and at random for the unoccupied and fertile places of the earth.

There are six hundred kinds of trees in North America, and each of

these equips its seeds in a peculiar way, that they may take advantage

of wind, gravity, water, birds, or beasts to transport them on their

home-seeking journey.

The whole seed-sowing story is a fascinating one. Blindly, often thick

as snow, the seeds go forth to seek their fortune,--to find a

rooting-place. All are in danger, many are limited as to time, and the

majority are restricted to a single effort. A few, however, have a

complex and novel equipment and with this make a long, romantic, and

sometimes an adventurous journey, colonizing at last some strange land

far from the place of their birth. Commonly, however, this journey is

brief, and usually after one short fall or flight the seed comes to

rest where it will sprout or perish. Generally it dies.

One autumn afternoon in southeastern Missouri, seated upon some

driftwood on the shallow margin of the Mississippi, I discovered a

primitive craft that was carrying a colony of adventurous tree seeds

down the mighty river. As I watched and listened, the nuts pattered

upon the fallen leaves and the Father of Waters purled and whispered

as he slipped his broad yellow-gray current almost silently to the

sea. Here and there a few broad-backed sandbars showed themselves

above the surface, as though preparing to rise up and inquire what had

become of the water.

This primitive craft was a log that drifted low and heavy, end on with

the current. It was going somewhere with a small cargo of tree seeds.

Upon a broken upraised limb of the log sat a kingfisher. As it drifted

with the current, breezes upon the wooded hill-tops decorated the

autumn air with deliberately falling leaves and floating winged seeds.

The floating log pointed straight for a sand-bar upon which other

logs and snags were stranded. I determined, when it should come

aground, to see the character of the cargo that it carried.

Now and then, as I sat there, the heavy round nuts like merry boys

came bounding and rattling down the hillside, which rose from the

water's edge. Occasionally as a nut dropped from the tree-top he

struck a limb spring board and from this made a long leap outward for

a roll down the hillside. These nuts were walnut and hickory; and like

most heavy nuts they traveled by rolling, floating, and squirrel

carriage.

One nut dropped upon a low limb, glanced far outward, and landed upon

a log, from which it bounced outward and went bouncing down the

hillside _aplunk_ into the river. Slowly it rolled this way and that

in the almost currentless water. At last it made up its mind, and,

with the almost invisible swells, commenced to float slowly toward the

floating log out in the river. By and by the current caught it,

carried it toward and round the sand-bar, to float away with the

onsweep toward the sea. This nut may have been carried a few miles or

a few hundred before it went ashore on the bank of the river or

landed upon some romantic island to sprout and grow. Seeds often are

carried by rivers and then successfully planted, after many stops and

advances, far from the parent tree.

The log hesitated as it approached the sand-bar, as if cautiously

smelling with its big, rooty nose; but at last it swung round

broadside, and sleepily allowed the current to put it to bed upon the

sand. As a tree, this log had lived on the banks of the Mississippi or

one of its tributaries, in Minnesota. While standing it had for a time

served as a woodpecker home. In one of the larger excavations made by

these birds, I found some white pine cones and other seeds from the

north that had been stored by bird or squirrel. A long voyage these

seeds had taken; they may have continued the journey, landing at last

to grow in sunny Tennessee; or they may have sunk to the bottom of the

river or even have perished in the salt waters of the Gulf.

In climbing up the steep hillside above the river, I found many nests

of hickory and walnuts against the upper side of fallen logs. Upon

the level hill-top the ground beneath the tree was thickly covered

with fallen nuts; only a few of these had got a tree's length away

from the parent. Occasionally, however, a wind-gust used a long,

slender limb as a sling, and flung the attached nuts afar.

The squirrels were active, laying up a hoard of nuts for winter. Many

a walnut, hickory, or butternut tree at some distant place may have

grown from an uneaten or forgotten nut which the squirrels carried

away.

The winged seeds are the ones that are most widely scattered. These

are grown by many kinds of trees. From May until midwinter trees of

this kind are giving their little atoms of life to the great

seed-sower, the wind. Most winged seeds have one wing for each seed

and commonly each makes but one flight. Generally the lighter the seed

and the higher the wind, the farther the seed will fly or be blown.

In May the silver maple starts the flight of winged seeds. This tree

has a seed about the size of a peanut, provided with a one-sided wing

as large as one's thumb. It sails away from the tree, settling

rapidly toward the earth with heavy end downward, whirling round and

round as it falls. Red maple seeds ripen in June, but not until autumn

does the hard maple send its winged ones forth from amid the painted

leaves.

The seed of an ash tree is like a dart. In the different ashes these

are of different lengths, but all have two-edged wings which in calm

weather dart the seed to the snowy earth; but in a lively wind they

are tumbled and whirled about while being unceremoniously carried

afar; this they do not mind, for at the first lull they right

themselves and drop in good form to the earth.

Cottonwoods and willows send forth their seeds inclosed in a dainty

puff or ball of silky cotton that is so light that the wind often

carries it long distances. With the willow this device is so airy and

dainty that it is easily entangled on twigs or grass and may never

reach the earth. The willow seed, too, is so feeble that it will often

perish inside twenty-four hours if it does not find a most favorable

germinating-place. This makes but little difference to the willows,

for they do not depend upon seeds for extension but upon the breaking

off of roots or twigs by various agencies; these pieces of roots or

twigs often are carried miles by streams, and take root perhaps at the

first place where they go around.

The seeds of the sycamore are in balls attached to the limbs by a

slender twiglet. The winter winds beat and thump these balls against

the limbs, thus causing the seeds to loosen and to drop a few at a

time to the earth. Each seed is a light little pencil which at one end

is equipped with a whorl of hairs,--a parachute which delays its fall

and thus enables the wind to carry it away from the parent tree.

The conifers--the pines, firs, and spruces--have ingeniously devised

and developed their winged seeds for wind distribution. Most of these

seeds are light, and each is attached to a dainty feather or wing

which is used on its commencement day. These wings are as handsome as

insects' wings, dainty enough for fairies; they are purple, plain

brown, and spotted, and so balanced that they revolve or whirl,

glinting in the autumn sun as they go on their adventurous wind-blown

flight to the earth. A high wind may carry them miles.

With the pines and spruces the cones open one or a few scales at a

time, so that the seeds from each cone are distributed through many

days. The firs, however, carry cones that when ripe often collapse in

the wind. The entire filling of seeds are thus dropped at once and

fill the air with flocks of merry, diving, glinting wings. A heavy

seed-crop in a coniferous forest gives a touch of poetry to the

viewless air.

The Spell of the Rockies · 第 10 / 13 段