CHAP. I.
_Of the Buildings and Monuments of Old_ Byzantium _and_
Constantinople, _called_ New Rome.
Having describ’d the Figure and Extent of the City, and having
particularized the Situation of the _seven Hills_, I shall proceed
to consider what Buildings and Monuments _Constantinople_ anciently
had, or now has, and into how many _Wards_ it was divided. For when
I accidentally fell upon this Division of the City into _Wards_, in
an ancient _Manuscript_ written above one thousand Years ago, by a
Gentleman more noble by his Birth than his Writings, I was in hopes,
with some Ease, to have traced out the ancient City; but the barbarous
_Mahometans_ have either so demolish’d those venerable and truly
heroick Ornaments which distinguish’d it, to adorn their own paultry
Houses, or entirely buried them in their own Ruins, that in very few
Places you shall see any Remains of an old Foundation. I omit to
mention the Fires and other Devastations, committed not only by the
Savages of other Countries, but the great Havock lately made by the
_Turks_ themselves, who for the last hundred Years have incessantly
endeavour’d entirely to deface and destroy it, by building upon it in
so different a Manner, that those who have formerly seen some parts of
it, scarce know its ancient Situation. Consider farther the profound
Ignorance of the _Greeks_ at present. There is scarce a Man of them who
either knows, or has so much as an Inclination to know, where their
_Antiquities_ are. Nay, their Priests are so heedless and negligent
in this Respect, that they will not make the least Enquiry themselves
about those Places, where but a few Years since very magnificent
Temples were standing, and so very censorious are they, as to condemn
those that do. However, that I might not pass away my Time uselessly,
while I was in Expectation of Remittances from my Royal Master, for
purchasing all the ancient _Manuscripts_ I could meet with, I made it
my Business, by all the Marks of Antiquity I was capable of observing,
to make what Discoveries I could. In my Description of the ancient
Monuments, I shall observe the same Method I did in the Description of
the Hills. I shall consider them in the Order the Hills stand, or as I
find them in the different _Wards_ of the City; which, like _Old Rome_,
was divided into fourteen _Wards_.
CHAP. II.
_Of the Ancient Monuments of the first_ Hill, _and of the first_ Ward
_of the City_.
The first Hill, which _Pliny_ sometimes calls _Chrysoceras_, and
sometimes _Auri Cornu_, (though this was a Mistake, as appears from
what I have wrote concerning the _Thracian Bosporus_) _Dionysius_
a _Byzantian_ calls the _Promontory_ of the _Bosporus_. _There are
two Reasons assigned_, says he, _why ’tis call’d the_ Promontory _of
the_ Bosporus; _the one is, as some say, because a Cow stung with
a Gad-Bee forded over it. Others more fabulously report, that_ Io,
_the Daughter of_ Inachus, _being changed into a Cow, swam across
it, when she went into_ Asia. The same Author, speaking of a Place
call’d _Semystra_, tells us, that _Byzantium_ had been founded there,
had not a Raven snatched a Part of the Sacrifice, they offer’d upon
their landing, out of the Fire, and carry’d it to the _Promontory_
of the _Bosporus_. This they look’d upon as a Token from the Gods,
that they should found their City there. The same Writer, speaking in
another Place of a _Promontory_ call’d _Metopum_, opposite to the
first Hill of _Constantinople_, this _Promontory_, he adds, faces the
City, and lies directly against the _Promontory_ of the _Bosporus_;
and the same Author informs us, that a little above the _Promontory_
of the _Bosporus_, there was an Altar erected to _Minerva_, who was
call’d _Ecbasia_, or _Egressoria_, because those who transplanted the
Colony hither, sally’d out from thence, with a Bravery equal to those,
who fight for their Countrey. We might also call her _Ecbateria_,
under which Name, as _Hesychius_ reports, _Diana_ was worshipped in
_Siphnus_. He adds farther, that upon the same _Promontory_ stood
the old Temple of _Neptune_, and below it, upon the Plain, that the
_Byzantian_ Youth exercised themselves in Horse-racing, driving the
Chariot, Wrestling, and other Martial Sports; and lastly, that at the
Foot of the _Promontory_ stood a Bay call’d _Ceras_, which had three
Havens, fortify’d with three Cittadels, and high Sand-banks, upon it
stood the Castle of _Byzantium_, of which _Xenophon_ takes Notice,
when he tells us, that the Men under his Command, having forc’d their
Way into the Town, the Inhabitants fearing they should be put to the
Sword if their City was taken, some fled to the adjoining _Promontory_,
others to the Sea, and that some of them steering about a long time in
a Fisher-boat, made at last a landing, got into a Tower, from thence
made Signals of Distress, and were assisted at last by the People of
_Chalcedon_. And not only the Castle of old _Byzantium_ was built
upon the first Hill, but Historians assure us, that the Emperours of
_Constantinople_ likewise continu’d a Fortress there, when they tell
us, that to keep off the Enemy from entring the Port, they laid a Boom
across the River, from the Cittadel to the Castle of _Galata_: Nay,
even at this Day, the _Grand Seignor_ has a Cittadel there, fortify’d
with thick Walls, which enclose his spacious Gardens on all sides. In
old _Byzantium_ there was a Place call’d the _Thracian_ Field, lying
upon a Level, and not incumber’d with Houses. It was upon this Plain
that _Xenophon_ drew up in Military Order the _Grecian_ Army. He
informs us, in his Book of his _Hellenici_, that this Field was near
the _Thracian_ Gate; they open’d, says he, the Gates adjoining the
_Thracian_ Field: And in the 7ᵗʰ Book of the _Expedition of Cyrus_,
speaking of a Place, seated near the Walls of _Byzantium_, where
he ranged his Army in order of Battle, he tells us, that the most
convenient Place to draw up, or muster an Army is, the _Thracian_
Field; because, as he goes on, ’tis free of Houses, and upon a Plain.
I observ’d before, that the seven Towers of _Byzantium_ reach’d from
the _Thracian_ Gate to the Sea; _Georgius Cedrinus_ asserts, that
they reach’d to the Northern-Sea, that is, to the Bay call’d _Ceras_.
_Herodotus_ attests, that in old _Byzantium_ stood an Altar erected
to _Diana Orthosia_, and a Temple dedicated to _Bacchus_. _Darius_,
says he, _upon viewing the Black Sea, came back to the Bridge, and
erected upon the_ Bosporus _two Stone Columns, on which he order’d to
be engraven the_ Assyrian _and_ Greek _Alphabets. The_ Byzantians
_afterwards removed them into the City, near to the Altar of_ Diana
Orthosia. _The_ Greek _Alphabet was what they retain’d, and made use
of. The Column with the_ Assyrian _Characters they left remaining
near the Temple of_ Bacchus, _where they had fix’d it_. _Laurentius_
translates the _Greek_ Word _Orthosia_, _Erecta_, but he had translated
it more properly, had he call’d her _Erectoria_, or _Erectrix_, because
as being the Goddess of Child-birth she _raises up_, or _recovers_
Women in Labour. This I collect to be the true Sense of the Word,
not only from several Authors, but from _Plutarch_, who in his Book
of _Rivers_, has this Story: _Proud_ Teuthras, _King of_ Mysia, says
he, _with his Retinue of Spearmen chas’d a Boar, which fled into the
Temple of_ Diana Orthosia _to implore her Assistance. As they were
all driving furiously into the Temple, the Boar cry’d out with an
audible human Voice_, Let your Compassion, Royal Sir, be shewn to
one whom _Diana_ brought into the World. Teuthras _enraged at this,
slew the Creature_. Diana _resenting the Affront, threw the King into
a Phrenzy, and punished him with ulcerous Sores. He could not bear
the Indignity of his Punishment, and so retired to the Mountains.
His Mother_ Lysippa, _immediately, with the Prophet_ Polyidius, _who
inform’d her of the Occasion of her Son’s Sufferings, hastens in Search
of him, and by sacrificing to_ Diana _some Oxen, reconciles her to
him. When she perceiv’d her Son return’d to his Senses, she erected an
Altar to_ Diana Orthosia, _and near it placed a Golden Boar, with a
Man’s Head upon his Shoulders_. Before the Destruction of _Byzantium_
by _Severus_, both the Altar and the Boar were standing, in the first
Valley of the first Hill. Since _Constantine_ rebuilt the City, the
first Hill included in it the first _Ward_, which contain’d the House
of _Placidia Augusta_, that also of the most noble _Marina_, and
the Baths of _Arcadius_. I learn this from the ancient Division of
the City into _Wards_, though I must confess myself at a Loss, to
know in what Part of the City the first _Ward_ began, nor can I make
any such Discovery from the Remains of any ancient Buildings, which
are now entirely destroy’d. However, thus much may be inferr’d from
_Procopius_, who has it upon Record, that when you sail from the
_Propontis_ to the Eastern Part of the City, there stand the publick
Baths, built by _Arcadius_. In this Place, says he, _Justinian_ built a
Court, which was encompassed with so calm a Sea, that when you walk’d
in the Galleries, you might discourse audibly with the Sailors. It made
a very beautiful, a very delightful, and most magnificent Prospect:
It was fann’d with gentle Breezes, supported with lofty Columns, and
laid with the most curious Marble, which like the Sun, reflected a
most amazing Lustre: It was also adorn’d with abundance of Marble and
brazen Statues, finish’d to the nicest Perfection; a lovely Scene to
the Spectators! The Reader, had he seen it, would have taken it to
have been the Work of _Phidias_, _Lysippus_, or _Praxiteles_. Upon a
high Pillar of _Porphyry_ Marble, in the same Place, stood the Statue
of the Empress _Theodora_, addressing herself, as it were, to him for
building so noble a Structure. The Beauty of the Column is exceedingly
surprising, yet does it by no means come up to that inconceivable
inexpressible Gracefulness and Dignity you see in the Statue. From
these Words of _Procopius_, as I would observe by the By, that that
Pillar now landing upon a Descent, lying Eastward of the _Grand
Seignor_’s Palace, is not the same with that upon which _Theodora_
was erected, as some are of Opinion it is; because it is neither of a
_Porphyry_ Colour, and is at too remote a Distance form the Court; so
would I have the Reader understand, that the first _Ward_ contain’d in
it the Length of the first Hill, which is bounded on three Sides by the
Sea. I find not only in many _Historians_, but also in _Suidas_ the
_Grammarian_, that the Statue of _Arcadia_, the second Wife of _Zeno_,
stood in the _Arcadian_ Baths, near the Places call’d the _Bathra_,
from the Stairs by which you ascend them. I find also in that Place two
Statues of _Verina_, the Wife of _Leo Magnus_, one in the Northern Part
of the City, near the Church of St. _Agathonicus_ beyond the _Bathra_,
the other on that Side of the City where stands the Church of St.
_Barbara_: The first was erected by _Leo_ in his Life-time, the second
since his Death; when upon the Flight of _Zeno_, his Son in Law, his
Brother _Basiliscus_ was crown’d Emperor in his stead. I have reason
to believe, when I consider the natural Situation and Order in which
the _Wards_ stand, that Part of the second _Ward_ was inclos’d in the
Palace: For this _Ward_, according to the ancient Description of it,
at its first Entrance stood upon a Level; at some Distance it rose by
a gentle Ascent, and at last, with very deep Precipices, fell into the
Sea. I am of Opinion, that these Precipices descended on that Spot
of Ground where the Kitchens, and _Bagnio’s_ of the _Grand Seignor_
stand at present. But where-ever they might stand in ancient Times,
all the steep Places that were formerly enclosed within the _Palace_
are now levell’d, where now there stands an old Church commonly call’d
_Sophia the Less_. Some of the most ancient Inhabitants affirm it to
be the Church of St. _Irene_, which _Socrates_ tells us was built by
_Constantine the Great_. I take it to be the same Church which the
People of the second _Ward_ call the _Old Church_. I have Reason also
to believe, that the other Part of the second _Ward_ stood without
the _Palace_, from the Situation of the _Churches_ and _Bagnio’s_,
which the second _Ward_ encloses. For _Zonaras_ and other Historians
assert, that the Church, which formerly went by the Name of the _Great
Church_, was afterwards call’d the Church of St. _Sophia_, which every
body knows stood without the Enclosure of the Palace. I have reason to
conjecture also, that the Palace of _Maximinus_ formerly stood within
the Verge of the Court, from the following Inscription made in its
Commendation by _Cyrus_, once a _Consul_ and Nobleman of _Rome_.
_Great_ Maximinus _rais’d this noble Pile;
From hence to Lengths unmeasurable I view
Unbounded Prospects; for behind me stand
The City, and_ Bithynia’s _beauteous Towns.
The swelling Ocean rolls its Waves before me;
When near my Doors, it moves but slowly on,
Delighted to behold the lovely Landscape
Of blooming Trees, gay Seats, and floating Ships,
The City’s rising Towers, and pleasing Site._
CHAP. III.
_Of the Church of St._ Sophia.
The modern Writers among the _Greeks_ will have it, that the Church of
St. _Sophia_ was first built by the Emperor _Constantius_, the Son of
_Constantine the Great_, and arch’d at Top, not with Brick-work, but
a wooden Roof. In the Time of _Theodosius_, when the second _Synod_
was held there, the _Arians_ rising in Sedition, burnt it. It was
after rebuilt by _Theodosius the Great_, and beautified with Arches
of a cylindrick Form. The same _Writer_ tells us, that it was burnt
a second time in the Reign of _Justinian_; but _Sozomen_, an ancient
and creditable Author, records it, that in the Time of _Theodosius
the Less_, when there were warm Debates in the _great Church_, about
expelling St. _Chrysostom_ the _Synod_, it was all on a sudden in
a Blaze, those who adhered to him throwing Fire into it, with an
Intention to burn down the Church, and to destroy all that were in
it. _Procopius_ will have it, that it was first burnt down in the
Reign of _Justinian_, who rebuilt it in the same Figure it stands at
present; but he does not tell us, whether it stands on the same Spot
of Ground or not; so that it remains doubtful from this Author, who
is not so much to be depended upon, though he has a Catalogue of the
Names of the Persons of whom _Justinian_ purchas’d the Houses where it
stood before the Fire. An _Ancient Description of the City_, wrote
before _Justinian_’s Time, seems to fix it in another Place; for the
_great Church_ and the _old Church_, the Author places in the second
_Ward_, the _Forum_ of _Augustus_ in the fourth, which I shall make
appear stood near the Church of St. _Sophia_. _Zonaras_ says, that
_Justinian_ built it much larger from the old Foundation; but ’tis
much to be question’d, whether _Justinian_ purchas’d the neighbouring
Houses for its Enlargement. As to the _Forum_ of _Augustus_, and the
_great Church’s_ being placed in different _Wards_, we cannot from
hence conclude, that they did not stand near one another. So that when
_Justinian_ had enlarged and beautify’d it, and adorned it with a great
Variety of Metal-work, when he had built the Walls and Roof with Brick,
and to strengthen them the more, had cramp’d them in many Places with
Iron-work, using no Rafters in the whole Fabrick for fear of Fire;
although it has hitherto escaped the Flames, yet has it been often
damaged and endanger’d by several Accidents, even from the Time of its
Rebuilding. For the Eastern Arch before it was finish’d, bore with its
Weight so hard upon the Pillars, that in all Probability it had fell,
had not the Architect been very expeditious in finishing it; when
bearing upon its own _Curvature_, it laid less heavy upon the Pillars
which supported it. The two Northern and Southern _Arches_ bore so hard
upon the Pillars and Foundation, that the Tops of the _Pillars_ began
to fly; and had sunk, if the Workmen had not with the greatest Skill
taken them down, and afterwards replaced them, when the Greenness and
Moisture of the Building was somewhat abated. The Church however, at
the Emperor’s great Expence, and by the indefatigable Industry of the
Workmen, was at last finish’d; yet in his own Time it was grievously
shock’d by an Earthquake, by which, as _Agathius_ writes, the Tower
above the Roof was much shatter’d in the Middle of it; so that the
Emperor was obliged to repair and strengthen it, raising it much
higher than it was before. This was done when _Anthemius_ the first
Architect was dead. However young _Isidorus_, and some other Architects
who succeeded him, notwithstanding the Errors committed in the former
Building, did not judge it necessary to take down the Eastern or
Western Arches, but widen’d the North and South Arches, and so visibly
enlarged them, that the whole Building seem’d more regular and uniform;
so that it was evident to the Eye of the Spectator, that the Sides of
the Church, which terminated with their Arches in the Roof, were of
an equal Dimension; and that the Architects had with so much Skill
contracted the vast Vacuity of the Body of the Church into so narrow a
Compass at the Top, that the whole Structure seem’d very proportionate
and agreeable. Above the Arches, in the Middle of the Church, they
raised a _Dome_ or _Cupola_ to a very great Height, which was regular,
and not so round at Top as usual, but more spiked, and better contrived
for the Security of the Building. _Zonaras_ writes, That the _great
Church_ being finished and consecrated; it happen’d that the Eastern
Arch was thrown down by an Earthquake, which broke the Pulpit and the
Communion-Table, but was afterwards rebuilt by _Justinian_, who raised
it twenty five Foot higher than it was before. The same Report, almost
Word for Word, is given by _Cedrinus_. He also built other Pillars
proportionable to the Weight of the Arch which bore upon them. On
the Outside of the Church he built a Pair of Winding-steps against
the Pillars, near to the Church, which rising from the Ground to the
Roof of it, support the Pillars, and the Arches. Other Writers, but
of less Note, will have it, that by the Earth-quake above-mention’d
the Roof of the Church was thrown down, but that the Arches stood
secure, that the Emperor rebuilt the Roof, but lower than before by
twenty five Foot. I could, for my own part, bear with this Relation, if
these Historians would agree with me, that the Church was afterwards
shock’d with other Earth-quakes, and then built lower than it stood
before. For when _Evagrius_ tells us that _Justinian_ raised it to
such an Height, that within side of it you could scarce see the Top,
and that the Descent was so deep, that it was dangerous to look from
the Height of it downwards, it is very probable, that _Justinian_ only
raised it to its former Height. _Cedrinus_ relates, that _Basilius_
the Emperor gave Orders for repairing, and strengthening the great
Western Arch, which was very much shatter’d by an Earth-quake, and
likely to fall. _Nicephorus_ inveighs bitterly against the Empress
_Anna_, who in the Reign of _Catacosmus_, sacrilegiously robb’d the
Church of all its Furniture and Ornaments, and exclaims heavily, that
the Tyranny, Oppression, and the different Sects and Opinions of those
Times, were the chief Occasion of the Destruction of this Church: For,
as he subjoins, one Midnight when the Sky was very clear, one of the
Eastern Arches fell to the Ground, and brought that Part of the Roof,
which it supported, after it, which broke down the Pulpit, the Images
which adorn’d it, and demolished the middle Galleries. He adds farther,
that it was the Opinion of many in those Times, that if _Andronicus_
the Emperor had not built Buttresses on the East-side of the Church,
it had wholly sunk into Ruines. _Evagrius_ determines the Length of
the Church in the following manner: From the Arch, where the bloodless
Sacrifice is offer’d, to the Gate opposite to it, it is an hundred
and ninety Foot long; from North to South it is a hundred and fifteen
Foot broad; and from the Pavement to the Center of the Roof, it is a
hundred and eighty Foot high. It was dangerous for me to measure its
Length from East to West, so that I was obliged to have the Dimensions
of it taken for me by a _Turk_, who made his Report, that the Church
was two hundred and thirteen Foot in Breadth, two hundred and forty in
Length, and from the Pavement to the highest Curvature of the Arches,
a hundred and forty two Foot in Height. The Fellow never measured the
Roof; If he had taken the Height of it true, he had found but a small
Difference between his own Account and that of _Evagrius_. Should the
Reader desire to be inform’d more at large of the Dimensions, and the
Architecture of this Church, as it stood in former Times, let him
consult _Procopius_, _Agathius_, _Paulus Florus_, and _Evagrius_. What
the Architecture and Dimensions of it are at present, I shall, as far
as my Observations have reach’d, describe more fully in the following
Chapter.
CHAP. IV.
_A Description of the Church of St._ Sophia, _as it now appears_.
The Walls and Roof of this Church are built with Brick. The Inside of
the Walls of the Church are incrusted with elegant Marble of several
Kinds. All its Materials are the most valuable Productions of Nature,
so that the Prospect of it employs the Thoughts of the Spectator with
Delight and Admiration. The Roof of it is a surprizing Piece of gilded
_Mosaick_ Work, which reflects such a Lustre upon the Eye, that even
the _Barbarians_ who behold it, are wonderfully taken with the Sight
of it. This Roof is supported with eight Pillars, four of the largest
and tallest of which bear up the four Arches which support the Roof.
Two of these Arches, _viz._ the Northern and Southern, bear at the
Bottom of their Curvature upon a thin Wall full of Windows, which Wall
is strengthen’d by two Ranges of Pillars standing one above another.
In the lower Range stand eight Pillars, which rise from the Pavement,
the six above them support the thin Wall. The Eastern and Western
Arches have neither a Wall nor a Pillar to support them, but are so
open, that they make the Body of the Church appear more large. For
these Arches projecting beyond the former, bear upon four other Arches,
which are supported by two small and two large Pillars: For the four
large Pillars do not only bear up the four great Arches, but every
one of them does also support two small Arches, one of which extends
itself length-ways, the other cross-ways of the Church; by which
means the Church is lengthen’d and widen’d to a great Distance; for
on the East and West Side of it there are two _Semi-domes_ which are
join’d to the _Cupola_ in such a Manner, that they have the same Roof
within the Church, though without it the Roofs seem to be distinct.
These _Semi-domes_ are a great Ornament to the _Cupola_, which rises
very highly above them. The Breadth of the Church is widen’d beyond
the _Dome_ with Arches and Pillars, and the Northern and Southern
Wall, which form the three upper and three lower Galleries, which are
incrusted with elegant Marble of different Kinds, the Roof of them
being cover’d with _Moresco Mosaick_ Work, finely gilded. Every Arch
which lies across the Church bears only upon one Pillar, for one End
of their Curvatures is supported by the outward Wall of the Church,
which bears upon large Pillars, from whence there rise four Arches,
which on both Sides of the Church are supported by the Wall. Two of
these Arches bear up the Roof of the three lower Galleries, and the
other two support the Roof of the three upper Galleries, the Sides of
which bear upon Walls, and Arches, and Pillars. Hence it is, that if
we consider the Inside of the Church by itself, as enclosed by its
Pillars and Columns, we discover it to be of an oval Figure; whereas if
we view the whole Space of it without these Pillars, it is a perfect
Square. For the upper and the lower Galleries, which are the Wings of
the Church, adjoin to it in such a Manner, that if we measure it from
the Pavement to the Bottom of the Curvature of the upper Galleries,
’tis of a square Figure, but as contracted within the Enclosure of
the four large and the four smaller Pillars, as far as the Curvature
of the four Arches of the _Dome_, it is entirely of an oval Form. The
Form of the Galleries is as follows: On three Sides of them they are
built in a square Manner: The fourth Side of them, which looks into
the Church, is of an oval Figure, as is the Church itself. The Roofs
of these Galleries are supported with Arches and Columns. I shall
give the Reader a Description of three of them, by which means he may
easily form a Judgment of the rest, for they are all of one Form.
Those I shall take Notice of, are the three upper Galleries on the
North Side of the Church. The first of these Galleries has two Fronts,
and looks both Eastward and Northward. The two Sides of this Gallery
rise from the Wall of the Church, and end in an Arch. In the Middle
of each Side of it there are three square Columns five Foot and nine
Inches in Circumference, which are made the Jambs of the Windows. These
Pillars support three other square Pillars, which are all made of
blue and white Marble. The Side which faces the Body of the Church is
adorn’d with six Pillars of green Marble, standing below the Arch which
supports an Eastern _Semi-dome_, whose Shafts at the Bottom of them
are seven Foot and eight Digits in Compass. The _Intercolumniations_
of these Pillars being little less than seven Foot and eleven Digits
wide, are strengthen’d with Marble _Closures_ which are four Foot
high, so that those who lean upon them, have a full View of all the
upper and lower Part of the Church. That Side which parts the first
and second Gallery, reaching from the outward Wall Northward, to the
great Pillar which supports the _Dome_, is forty four Foot in Length,
part of which is adorn’d with Pillars, and an Arch which supports the
_Dome_. You pass through this into the second Gallery, the Breadth of
which is twenty four Foot, and it is made up of the Arch of a Pillar,
and a Wall which is a part of one of the Wings of the Church, and
extends itself as far as the Roof of the _Dome_. This Gallery, at both
Ends of it, is born up by Arches and Walls. In the Middle of it, it
is supported by four white Pillars speckled with blue, the Shafts of
which are seven Foot in Compass. ’Tis of a square Figure, and, as I
observ’d, bears upon Arches and Walls. These Arches, at one End of
them, rise behind two of the large Pillars which support the _Dome_;
at the other End they bear upon Pillars which rise within Side of the
Walls, and support the four large Pillars. The outer Side of this
Gallery is supported with eight square Pillars, which are six Foot in
Compass. There rises in the Middle of them a Pillar of a larger Size.
These Pillars are instead of Jambs for the Windows; and above them
there are other Pillars, which are also Jambs to other Windows. These
Windows, which below and above are sixteen in Number, do very much
enlighten this second or Middle Gallery. The Front of this Gallery,
facing the Church, is beautified with six Pillars of green Marble. The
_Intercolumniations_ of them, like those of the first Gallery, have
their Marble _Closures_ at Bottom. From this middle Gallery you pass
through an Arch into the third Gallery, which is much like the first
in its Length, Windows, Jambs and Pillars. The Roof of it is supported
with four Pillars, and the Side of it towards the Church with six green
Pillars. There are also four green Marble Pillars which support one
of the Western _Semi-domes_ which stands between two other Pillars.
These Pillars stand two and two together, and between them are rais’d
two lesser Pillars, made after the _Ionic_ Order. At the Western Door
of the Church there are instead of a _Vestibulum_, two _Portico’s_,
the lower of which lies upon a Level with the Church itself. The upper
leads to the Womens Galleries. Both of them in Length the Wideness of
the Church, and twenty eight Foot in Breadth. The _Portico_ over it is
situate between the Pillars which support the Western _Semi-dome_ and
the Windows. For both in the Inside and Outside of it, ’tis supported
with eight Pillars, between which, the Windows both in the upper and
lower Galleries, cast a great Light into the Church. There is nothing
parts this _Portico_ and the Womens Galleries, but the Pillars which
bear up the Roof of the _Portico_; for the Pavement of the _Portico_
lies upon the same Level with the Pavement of the Galleries. The Inside
of the lower _Portico_ is enclosed with Walls, which are lined with
a delectable Variety of Marble, and is cover’d at Top with curious
_Moresco Mosaick_ Work, very beautifully gilded. On the East Side
the _Portico_ are Doors which open into the Church; on the West End
of it you go out at five Brass folding Doors into a _Portico_ that
stands without the Church, and from thence you pass into a Court,
where there are several Springs constantly running, to which there is
a very deep Descent by many Steps. At the Ends of these _Portico’s_
there are two Places of Entrance into the Church, one on the Northern
Side of it, and another with six folding Doors on the South. These
Doors formerly were all of Brass, at present three only of them are
so, but curiously wrought. The Church has also two folding Doors on
the East Side of it. There are also some Doors in the Sides of it,
which were formerly open’d, but are now kept shut. The Inside of the
Church is very light, by reason of the Multitude of Windows about it.
The high Wall, which between the great Arches and the _Cupola_ is of
a circular Figure, let in the Light at forty Windows. The Walls under
the Arches are enlighten’d with twenty six Windows, the Middle of the
Galleries with thirty two, and the Ends of them with more than twenty.
I shall take no Notice of the Lights of the two Western and the four
lower Galleries, nor those of the two _Semi-domes_, nor those of the
_Sanctum Sanctorum_, and the upper _Portico_, which I omitted to count,
by reason of the great Number of them. The largest Entrance into this
Church is on the West Side of it, where you do not ascend the Pavement
as formerly, and as the _Romans_ did their _Pantheon_, nor do you
descend into it by five Steps. You go up to the Top of the Church by
four Pair of winding Stairs, not winding round in the Manner of a
Cockle-shell, as _Cedrinus_ reports, but turning more upon the Square,
and work’d by the Line. These Stairs rise with a very easy Ascent,
and are cut out of large Marble Tables. Every Turning of these Stairs
is nineteen Foot and a half high, and five Foot broad. Above these
there is another Pair of winding Stairs which reach to the Top of the
Church. You must ascend these when you go to the upper Galleries, and
_Portico’s_. If the Reader will give himself the Trouble to compare
what I have said of the Church of St. _Sophia_, with what has been
written by _Procopius_ and _Agathius_ upon that Subject, he may easily
discover, that the Ruins of what was built by _Justinian_ have not been
so great as the _Turks_ pretend, who tell you, that the Church was
formerly much larger, and that several Parts of it have been pull’d
down by the _Barbarians_, and that there is scarce a tenth Part of it
remaining at this Day. This Story would carry a Face of Probability
in it, if they meant, that the Palaces, the Houses of the Priests and
the Noblemen, which were built about it, had been demolish’d by Fire,
and the Ravage of those People, otherwise I am convinc’d ’tis a gross
Mistake; for I saw every Part of the old Church standing, mention’d
by _Procopius_, except one _Portico_. For whereas _Procopius_ writes,
that the Church had two _Portico’s_ at each End of it, there is
none, remaining at present, but only that at the West End. ’Tis very
probable that the other was thrown down by an Earthquake, and that in
the Room of it, the Inhabitants erected a large Lump of Building of
square Stone, which is now standing, to support the East end of the
Church. This Lump of Stone you would take to be a Piece of a craggy
Rock, though it does not seem, by reason of the Earthquakes, to be of
the same Height as it was when it was first built, yet is it as near
as high, as _Evagrius_ mentions it to be. Since which, to fortify the
labouring Pillars, it is lengthen’d with four Walls. These Walls are
more than twenty Foot long and eight Foot broad, rising to the Height
of the great Pillars, and seem, to speak in the Terms of Architecture,
to be Wings to the Church, or rather Buttresses, by which the North
and South Side of it are strengthen’d and supported. Both Ends of the
Church, which project beyond the eight Pillars, extending themselves
each into a _Semi-dome_, and rising at Top into an arched Form, are
yet remaining. The same lower Galleries for the Men, and the same
upper Galleries for the Women, the whole Roof, the same Walls and
Pillars, the same Dimensions of the Church, as originally beautify’d
and adorn’d, are still in Being. There are indeed some Flaws in the
Building, occasion’d by those who opposed the setting up of Images in
the Church. In short, the whole, and every part of it, is to be seen
at present; and it is despoiled of nothing, except a little of the
Metal-work, which shews itself in great abundance through the whole
Church. The _Sanctum Sanctorum_, formerly holy and unpolluted, into
which the Priests only were suffer’d to enter, is yet standing, though
there is nothing remaining of the Jewels and precious Stones which
adorn’d it, as having been plunder’d by its sacrilegious Enemies. That
inimitable Table, given to the Church by its Founder _Justinian_,
made of the different Materials of Gold, Silver, all Kinds of Wood,
costly Stones, which either the Sea or the whole World could produce,
and which was embellish’d and enrich’d with infinite Offerings of
Emperors, Popes, Princes, and Ladies of the first Quality; among whom
was _Pulcheria_, the Daughter of _Arcadius_, and Sister of _Theodosius
the Less_, is at present despoil’d of all its fine Decorations.
_Sozomen_ tells us, that this Table was a very beautiful and surprizing
Ornament to the Church, which was endow’d with very ample Donations,
the _Mahometan_ Priests being now in Possession of them. They have
eleven hundred Shops and publick Houses, situate in the best Markets
of the City, which pay them a constant Revenue or Rent, without any
Deductions, for their Maintenance and Support.
CHAP. V.
_Of the Statues discover’d on one Side of the Church of St._ Sophia.
On the Side of the Church of St. _Sophia_, says _Suidas_, were
discovered more than seventy Statues of the _Grecian_ Deities, the
Figures of the twelve Signs of the _Zodiack_, and no less than eighty
Statues of Christian Princes and Emperors, which, when _Justinian_
had commanded to be placed in several Parts of the City, he built
the great Church. I could give the Reader an Account of the Names of
these Deities from an unknown Author, who has wrote a Treatise of
_Constantinople_, and the adjacent Countrey; but I have found him
faulty in so many of his Narrations, that I cannot depend upon his
Authority.
CHAP. VI.
_Of the_ Pharo _on the Promontory_ Ceras, _and the_ Mangana.
_Ammianus Marcellinus_ writes, that there was built near the Promontory
_Ceras_, a high Watch-Tower, which was call’d _Pharos_, and was a Guide
to the Ships at a great Distance. The Situation of this _Pharos_, in
all Probability, was near the Church of St. _Sophia_. For from what
Part of the City could it spread a more convenient and diffusive
Light to those who sail’d out of the _Bosporus_ and the _Propontis_?
_Dionysius_ calls it the _Bosporian Promontory_, and tells us, that
_Io_, the Daughter of _Inachus_, provoked by _Juno_’s Resentment
against her, passed over from thence into _Asia_. The Place call’d the
_Mangana_ was their Armoury, where they kept their Ordnance. It stood
in the Imperial Precinct, or by it, near the Chops of the _Bosporus_.
The Emperor _Constantine_, Surnamed _Monomachus_, built a handsome and
large Monastery, which is also call’d _Mangana_, in Honour of the noble
_Martyr_ St. _George_. _Alexius Comnenus_, when he was ill of the Gout,
was carry’d to the great Palace, which stands in the Eastern part of
the City; but when his Physicians judg’d it not to be so wholsome an
Air, he was removed into the Palace of the _Mangana_.
CHAP. VII.
_Of the_ Bagnio’s _of_ Zeuxippus _and its Statues_.
These _Bagnio’s_ were so call’d, as _Cedrinus_ relates, because they
were built in a Place, where formerly had stood the Temple of _Jupiter
Zeuxippus_. This is said of them by _Eusebius_, who writes, _That there
are some of Opinion, that the fine Bathing-place at_ Constantinople
_took its Name from the famous Painter_ Zeuxes, _whose Pieces adorn’d
it_. I collect that it stood near the Church of St. _Sophia_, not only
from the _Treatise_ of the _ancient Description_ of the City, which
places them both in the same _Ward_, but also from the Fire which
happen’d in the Reign of _Justinian_, and burnt down, as _Procopius_
observes, the Church of St. _Sophia_, and the adjacent Buildings, as
the _Bagnio_ of _Zeuxippus_, and the House of Entrance before the
Palace; and _Zonaras_ writes, that _Severus_ the Emperor join’d it
to the _Hippodrom_, and built it on the same Spot of Ground, where
formerly had stood the Temple of _Jupiter_. _Leontius_, a more ancient
and judicious Historian, does not join it to the _Hippodrom_, but makes
it to stand near it, as appears by his Verses inscrib’d over a Door of
a House, situate between the _Zeuxippum_ and the _Hippodrom_.
An Inscription of _Leontius_ upon a House call’d the _Zeuxippum_ and
the _Hippodrom_.
_Between_ Zeuxippus’ _cool refreshing Baths,
And the fam’d_ Hippodrom_’s swift Course I stand.
Let the Spectator, when he baths himself,
Or sees the struggling Steed panting for Breath,
Pay a kind Visit, to enhanse his Pleasures;
He’ll find a hearty Wellcome at my Table.
Or if more manly Sports his Mind affects,
Practise the rough Diversions of the_ Stadia.
_Cedrinus_ relates, that in this _Bagnio_ there was a pleasant Variety
of Prospects of surprizing Art, both in Marble and Stone-work, in
Statues of Brass, and Figures of Persons of Antiquity, who seem’d
to want nothing but a Soul to animate and enliven them. Among these
celebrated Pieces of the most exquisite Workmanship, was the Statue of
old _Homer_, in a thoughtful Posture, just as he was, his Hands folded
in his Breast, his Beard carelessly hanging down, his Hair very thin
before, his Face wrinkled with Age, and the Cares of the World; his
Nose well proportion’d, his Eyes fix’d in their Sockets, as is usual
with blind Persons, which he was generally look’d upon to be. Over his
close Coat hung a loose Garment, and under his Feet, upon the Pedestal
of the Pillar, was a Bridle in Brass. This Place was also beautify’d
with the brazen Statues of all those renown’d Personages who had
been famous for Wisdom, Poetry, Oratory or Courage, throughout the
World, but were all destroy’d by Fire. Among these were the Statues
of _Deiphobus_, _Æschines_, _Demosthenes_, _Aristotle_, _Euripides_,
_Hesiod_, _Theocritus_, _Simonides_, _Anaximenes_, _Calchas_,
_Pyrrhus_, _Amymone_; of _Sappho_, _Apollo_, _Venus_, _Chrysa_, _Julius
Cæsar_, _Plato_, _Hermaphroditus_, _Herinna_, _Terpander_, _Pericles_,
_Pythagoras_, _Stesichorus_, _Democritus_; of _Hercules_, _Aurora_,
_Æneas_, _Creusa_, _Helenus_, _Andromachus_, _Menelaus_, _Helena_,
_Ulysses_, _Hecuba_, _Cassandra_, _Polyxena_, _Ajax_, _Paris_, and his
_Oenone_; of _Milo_, _Dares_ and _Entellus_, _Charidemus_, _Melampus_,
_Panthous_, _Demogeron_, _Isocrates_, _Amphiaraus_, _Sarpedon_,
_Achilles_, _Mercury_, _Apuleius_, _Diana_, _Pherecydes_, _Heraclitus_,
_Cratinus_, _Menander_, _Amphitryon_, _Thucydides_, _Herodotus_,
_Pindar_, _Xenophon_, _Alcmæon_, _Pompey_ and _Virgil_. There were also
many other Statues which have been describ’d in Verse by _Christodorus_
a Poet of _Thebes_, or, as others report, a Native of _Coptos_ in
_Ægypt_, which, were it not a Work of Prolixity, I would explain to the
Reader. There stood near the _Bagnio_ call’d _Zeuxippum_, a small Bath,
taken Notice of by _Leontius_ in the following Lines:
_Let not thy stately Walls, O proud_ Zeuxippum,
_Resent the Meanness of this little Bath.
In Heaven’s high Tower, near the Constellation
Of_ Ursa Major _shines the_ Polar _Star_.
There is nothing of the _Zeuxippum_ remaining at present, nor of many
other fine _Bagnio’s_, although we have many Inscriptions relating to
them; as of that famous one celebrated by _Agathius_, in which _Venus_
is said to have bathed her self; also of another call’d _Didymum_,
in which both Sexes used to wash, describ’d in Verse by _Paulus
Silentiarius_, and a third made memorable by an Inscription of the
learned _Leontius_. Besides these, there was another named _Cupido_,
describ’d by the ingenious _Marianus_; yet are all of them either
entirely ruin’d, or so defaced by the _Mahometans_, that you cannot
discover who built them, or to whom they belong’d.
CHAP. VIII.
_Of the Hospitals of_ Sampson _and_ Eubulus.
_There was built_, as _Procopius_ says, _a Hospital for the Relief of
poor and sick People. It was founded in ancient Times by a holy Man,
whose Name was_ Sampson. _But it did not escape the Flames, occasion’d
by a riotous Mob, which burnt down that and the Church of St._ Sophia.
_It was rebuilt by_ Julian, _who beautify’d and enlarged it with a
Multitude of small handsome Apartments, and afterwards endow’d it with
a yearly Stipend, for the Support and Comfort of the miserable and
distressed. But the good Emperor not being content with this Oblation
he had made to God, with the Co-assistance of his Imperial Consort_
Theodora, _built over-against it two other Hospitals on the same
Ground, where formerly stood the Houses of_ Isidorus _and_ Arcadius.
Thus far _Procopius_. From whence I would observe, that the Hospital
of _Sampson_ was not far from the Church of St. _Sophia_, and have
read in the History of an unknown Author, that it stood over-against
it. I am confirm’d in this Opinion by the Authority of _Zonaras_, who
tells us in the like Manner, that there was a Fire occasion’d by a
Faction, which burnt down the _great Church_, that of St. _Irene_, the
Hospital of _Eubulus_, the _Chalca_, the _Bagnio_ of _Severus_, call’d
the _Zeuxippum_, and many other Buildings. This is farther attested
by _Cedrinus_, who speaking of the same Fire, tells us, _That a great
Part of the City, the Churches of St._ Sophia _and St._ Irene, _the
Hospitals of_ Sampson _and_ Eubulus, _with the sick People inhabiting
them, as also the_ Augustean _Gate-house of the_ Basilica, _the_
Chalca, _the two_ Portico’s, _as far as the_ Forum, _the_ Octogon _and
the_ Bagnio _of_ Zeuxippus, _were destroy’d by Fire_. After I had made
the former Quotation from the printed Works of _Procopius_, I lighted
by chance upon a Manuscript of him, wherein I was inform’d, that the
Hospital of _Sampson_ stood between the two Churches of St. _Sophia_
and St. _Irene_.
CHAP. IX.
_Of the Statue of_ Eudoxia Augusta, _for which St._ Chrysostom _was
sent into Banishment_.
SOCRATES and _Sozomen_, Writers of sacred History, tells us, that
a Silver Statue of _Eudoxia Augusta_ was erected upon a _Porphyry_
Pillar on the South Side of the Church of St. _Sophia_, though at
some Distance from it, near the _Senate-House_. The People commonly
paid their Homage and Acclamations to this Statue. There were publick
Entertainments of Dancing, and other mimical Gestures acted before it,
according to a Custom which had long prevail’d, of paying Adoration to
the Images of Princes. St. _Chrysostom_ reflecting upon this Practice,
as contrary to the Precepts of the Christian Religion, publickly
condemn’d it in a _Sermon_. _Eudoxia_ believing her self to be closely
struck at in that Discourse, banish’d him. I should here take Notice
of the _Miliarium_ and the _Basilica_, as being near the Church of St.
_Sophia_, but then I shall invert the Method I proposed to observe.
CHAP. X.
_Of those Parts of the City which are contain’d in the third_ Ward.
The third _Ward_ is discover’d to have been that Space of Ground upon
which stood the _Hippodrom_, the House of _Abraham Bassa_, the Gate of
_Leo_, and the Haven which the Inhabitants call the _Caterga Limena_,
where the Three-oar’d Galleys used to anchor, and so on to the Top of
the second Hill, as far as the _Forum_ of _Constantine_. I made this
Observation, not only from the Order the _Wards_ stand in, but also
from the Treatise of the _Description of the Wards_, which says, that
the third _Ward_, at the Entrance of it, is a Level Ground, but in the
most remote Part of it, it descends with too great a Declivity into
the Sea, and contains the Tribunal of the _Forum_ of _Constantine_,
the _Circus Maximus_, the House of _Pulcheria Augusta_, the new Port,
and the semicircular _Portico_, made after the Figure of an old _Greek
Sigma_.
CHAP. XI.
_Of the_ Hippodrom, _its_ Obelisk, _its_ Statues, _and_ Columns.
Modern Historians, as _Zonaras_ and others, write, that the _Hippodrom_
was built by _Severus_ upon his Reconciliation with the _Byzantians_.
_Zosimus_, a more ancient Writer tells us, that it was built, and
curiously beautified by _Constantine the Great_, part of which he
made the Temple of _Castor_ and _Pollux_, whose Images remain’d in
the _Portico’s_ of the _Hippodrom_ down to his Time; that is, ’till
the Reign of _Theodosius_ the _Less_. In the middle of the _Circo_,
which the _Greeks_ call the _Hippodrom_, there stood an _Obelisk_
made of _Thebaick_ Stone; but as the _ancient Description of the
Wards_ takes no Notice of it, tho’ it does of the Square _Thebaick
Obelisk_ in the fifth _Ward_, I should be inclin’d to believe, that
the _Obelisk_, I am speaking of, was overturn’d by an Earth-quake, and
remov’d by _Theodosius_ into the _Hippodrom_, after that Treatise was
wrote, if the Author had not taken notice of many of _Theodosius_’s
Works, and omitted some Things in the _Wards_, which he afterwards
mention’d in his _General View of the City_. ’Tis very probable, that
_Constantinople_ had more _Obelisks_ than one. As to that taken notice
of in the fifth _Ward_, it is not now remaining. When first I arriv’d
at _Constantinople_ I saw two of them, one in the _Circus Maximus_,
another in the Imperial Precinct, standing on the North-side of the
first Hill. This last was of a square Figure, and was erected near the
Houses of the _Grand Seignor_’s Glaziers. A little time after I saw
it lying prostrate without the Precinct, and found it to be thirty
five Foot in Length. Each of its Sides, if I mistake not, was six Foot
broad, and the whole was eight Yards in Compass. It was purchased by
_Antonius Priolus_, a Nobleman of _Venice_, who sent it thither, and
placed it in St. _Stephen_’s Market. The other is standing in the
_Hippodrom_ to this Day. ’Tis supported by four square broad Pieces of
Brass, each a Foot and a half high, with a Base and a Pedestal of the
same Height. From the Ground there rise two Steps against the Pedestal,
the lowermost of which is a Foot high, and of the same Breadth: The
upper Step is two Foot high, and projects four Foot and four Fingers
Breadth beyond the Pedestal. The Steps are not laid within the
Pedestal, but are join’d to it withoutside, as appears by the Cement.
Upon the Steps stands the Pedestal, which is every way twelve Foot
broad, four Foot eight Digits in Height and projects beyond the Base a
Foot and a half: Somewhat above a Foot higher it is more contracted,
and does not project beyond its Base; for from the Top of the Pedestal
there’s a Fluting on the four Sides of the _Obelisk_ which is cut out
of the same Stone of which the Pedestal is made, and is a Foot and
thirteen Digits high. The Corners of the Top of the Pedestal are worn,
and defac’d, but are repair’d by four Stones of _Thebaick Porphyry_
Marble, each of them a Foot and a half high; for all the fluted Part
of the Pedestal that lies between these four angular Stones, together
with the upper Part of it, support the Base, which is seven Foot and
thirteen Digits high, and projects a Foot and a half beyond the Bottom
of the Shaft of the _Obelisk_, to the Breadth of nine Foot, and as
many Digits: ’Tis carv’d on all Sides, as is also the Pedestal, which
is covered with curious Statues cut in _Basso Relievo_. The Sculptures
on the North-side of it, stand in two Ranges, the lowermost of which
contains eighteen Statues, and two Cap-stands, which are turn’d round
with Iron Crows by four Men, and wind the Ropes, which are drawn
through Pullies, round the Cap-stand, and so draw the _Obelisk_ along
the Ground. In the same Range is engraved the _Obelisk_ in an upright
Posture, as it now stands, with three Statues, one of which, as the
Inhabitants tell you, represents the Master, and the other the Servant,
whom he design’d to correct, if a third Person had not interposed,
because he had erected the _Obelisk_ in his Absence. In the upper Range
there are also the Figures of two Cap-stands, with the same Number of
Men working them, and labouring with those below them, to drag the
_Obelisk_. The Wreaths of the Ropes in particular, are very nicely
cut. If the Reader could apprehend the manner in which this cumbersome
Pillar was erected, I believe he would judge it was done the way, as
_Marcellinus_ describes. There was nothing wanting, says he, but the
Erection of the _Obelisk_, the Accomplishment of which, without the
greatest Danger, could scarcely be conceiv’d. You might see, says he, a
vast Wood of Scaffolding made of tall Beams: At the Top of these were
fix’d large, and long Ropes, after the manner of Threads in a Weaver’s
Loom; which by their Thickness and Closeness to one another, darkned
the Air. These Ropes at the Bottom were fastned round the _Obelisk_,
which being leisurely drawn into the Air, many thousands working at the
Cap-stands, was at last fix’d upon its _Basis_. I believe there are at
present Engineers at _Constantinople_, who could do the same thing. I
am induc’d to think so, by what I observ’d of a Pillar on the Side of
the fifth Hill, which was almost equal in Magnitude to this _Obelisk_.
I saw this Pillar taken off its _Basis_, and laid upon the Ground in
the following manner. Round the Pillar, though at some Distance from
it, they fix’d in the Ground near to one another large Poles, much
taller than the Pillar, at an equal Distance from each other. At the
Top of these Poles, they laid others across them, which were fasten’d
to them in the strongest manner, and to which were fix’d the Pullies,
through which the Ropes slipp’d, which reach’d from the Bottom of the
Shaft of the Pillar to the Top, and were fasten’d to it: The Ropes were
so thick, both length-ways and cross-ways, that at some Distance the
Scaffolding look’d like a square Tower. There were many Cap-stands on
all Sides fix’d in the Ground, which were turn’d by infinite Numbers
of the strongest Youth, till they had mov’d it from its _Basis_, and
laid it prostrate with the Earth. They afterwards laid it upon strong
Carriages, the Wheels of which were bound with thick Iron, and brought
it safe to the third Hill, and set it up as an Ornament to the _Mosque_
of _Solyman_ the Emperor. But to return to the _Obelisk_; on the
West-side of the Pedestal was the following Inscription in _Greek_:
_To raise this Four-square Pillar to its Height,
And fix it steddy on its solid Base,
Great_ Theodosius _try’d, but try’d d in vain.
In two and thirty Days, by_ Proclus’ _Skill,
The toilsome Work, with great Applause, was finish’d_.
And on the other Side was this Inscription in _Latin_,
which was somewhat defac’d, but I could
read it, and is as follows:
_Difficilis quondam dominis parere serenis
Jussus, & extinctis palmam portare Tyrannis.
Omnia_ Theodosio _cedunt, sobolique perenni:
Ter denis sic victus, duobusque diebus,
Judice sub_ Proclo, _sublime elatus ad auras_.
On the South Side of it there are two Ranges of Statues, the lowermost
of which has engrav’d upon it four Chariots, two of which are drawn by
a Pair, and the other by four Horses, with a Driver to each of them.
In the upper Range are two _Equestrian_ Statues, three Footmen, three
_Togati_, two _Obelisks_, and four square Pillars. On the North Side
of the _Basis_ are engrav’d four Ranges of Figures, which contain
thirty five Statues in Gowns. On the West Side there are two Ranges,
the lowest of which has nine Statues in a suppliant Posture, making
Presents to the Emperor, who stands in the upper Range, with sixteen
Statues about him. The South Side has two Ranges; upon the lowest are
cut ten Statues in Gowns, in a petitioning manner; the upper contains
twenty Statues, all in Gowns, except four in a fighting Posture, arm’d
with Bucklers. The East Side, on the lowest part of it, has three
Ranges; the lowest Range contains sixteen Statues of Men and Women,
dancing and playing upon Instruments of Musick; above which are two
Ranges more, in which appear little more than the Heads, which I look
upon to be the Spectators. The highest Range has twenty Statues, six
of which are divided from the rest by Pillars. The middle Figure
holds a Crown in his Hand. Upon the _Basis_ are four square Pieces
of Brass carv’d, which being plac’d in a quadrilateral Figure, the
whole _Obelisk_ bears upon them. ’Tis engrav’d from Top to Bottom with
_Ægyptian_ Characters.
CHAP. XII.
_Of the_ Colossus.
There is yet standing, in the Middle of the _Hippodrom_, a _Colossus_
made of square Stones, which was formerly (as an injudicious Author
writes) incrusted with Marble; but, as appears by an Inscription carv’d
upon its _Basis_, ’twas cover’d with Plates of Brass, cramp’d together
with Iron, as appears not only by the Holes made in the Shaft, but
by those which still remain in the _Base_; where the Iron Pins were
fasten’d, and strengthen’d with melted Lead. ’Tis now despoil’d of its
outward beauteous Appearance; and discovers only the Workmanship of its
Inside, as having felt the Effects of the Avarice and Rapine of the
_Barbarians_. This was also the Fate of the _Colossus_ at _Rhodes_,
which was demolish’d by the _Hagarens_ in the Reign of _Constans_,
Nephew of _Heraclius_, thirteen hundred Years after it was erected.
’Twas purchas’d afterwards by one _Emesenus_ a _Jew_, and the Brass,
when strip’d off, was of so considerable a Weight, that it was carried
off by Nine hundred Camels. Upon the _Base_ of the _Colossus_ at
_Constantinople_, are inscrib’d the following Verses;
_Fam’d_ Constantine, Romanus’ _Princely Son,
(Who wore with Honour the Imperial Crown)
This lofty Pile, by Time decay’d, repair’d;
And join’d fresh Beauty to her Builder’s Art_.
This _Colossus_ at the _Base_ of it, has three Steps. The lowest is
two Foot high, the next a Foot and two Digits, and the uppermost of
the same Height. The _Basis_ is a square Marble, seven Foot and three
Digits high, each Side of which is ten Foot and nine Inches broad. This
_Colossus_ is taller than the _Obelisk_. One Day, being the _Festival_
of the Circumcision of the Prince of _Boldania_, I saw an ingenious
Fellow of a Mountebank climb to the Top of it, and come down safe.
The same Attempt was immediately made by another, who made a Shift
to reach the Top of it, but the Height so dazzled and confounded him,
that, despairing of getting down without Hurt, he threw himself, with
all his Might, as far as he could from the _Colossus_, to avoid the
Danger of being dash’d to pieces upon the Foundation; so that falling
down right upon his Feet, he stuck deep in the Earth, and dy’d upon the
Spot.
CHAP. XIII.
_Of some other Columns in the_ Hippodrom.
About the Middle of the _Hippodrom_, among a strait Range of small
_Obelisks_, there stand seven Pillars. One of which, made of _Arabian_
Marble, is seventeen Foot and eight Digits in Circumference. There
was erected upon the Top of it, by one _Abraham_ a Basha, the Statue
of _Hercules_. It was cast in Brass, and made of the Spoils which he
had taken in _Hungary_; but upon the Death of _Abraham_, _Hercules_,
who was reported to have travell’d so many Countries, and tam’d so
many Monsters, was at last forced to submit, and be torn to pieces by
the _Turks_, the most inveterate Enemies to _Statuary_, and the whole
_Vitruvian_ Art; so that they treated him in as barbarous a manner as
he was by _Diagoras_, who going into an Inn, and wanting Wood to boil
his Lentils, finding a wooden Statue of _Hercules_, well-finish’d,
cut it to pieces, and threw it into the Fire, saying these Words;
_O Hercules, who hast pass’d with so much Courage through thy twelve
Labours, try how thou canst struggle with the thirteenth_.
In the same Range of _Obelisks_ there stands another Pillar. ’Tis made
of Brass, but not fluted, but wreath’d round with the Foldings of
three Serpents, like those we see in great Ropes. The Heads of these
Serpents are placed in a triangular Form, and rise very high upon the
Shaft of the Pillar. There are many fabulous and trifling Reports
among the Inhabitants, concerning the Erection of this Pillar, which
is occasion’d by their Ignorance of the History of their Ancestors.
_Zosimus_, among other Historians, writes, that _Constantine_ the
_Great_ plac’d in the _Hippodrom_ the _Tripos_ of _Apollo_, which was
brought from _Delphos_, and which had on it the Image of that God.
_Sozomen_ tells us, that _Constantine_ did not only place the _Delphick
Tripos_ in the _Hippodrom_, but also that celebrated _Tripos_, which
_Pausanias_ the _Lacedæmonian_ General, and the Cities of _Greece_,
upon the Conclusion of the War with the _Medes_, consecrated to
_Apollo_. _Eusebius_ is more clear upon this Occasion, and says,
that _Constantine_, in some part of _Constantinople_, see up the
Image of _Sminthius Apollo_, which was a Title given to him; but that
in the _Hippodrom_ he placed the _Pythian Tripos_, round which was
wreathed the Figure of the Serpent _Python_; so that it seems to me
very probable, that this was the same _Tripos_ which was plac’d upon
the brazen Pillar I am speaking of at _Constantinople_. _Herodotus_
writes, that the golden _Tripos_ which was at _Delphos_, was made
out of a tenth Part of the Spoils taken from the _Persians_, and
erected upon this Pillar; and adds farther, that when the _Persians_
were routed at the Battle of _Platææ_, there was found a golden
_Tripos_, which was restor’d to _Apollo_, and set upon a brazen
Pillar, encircled with three Serpents entwin’d, near an Altar. ’Tis a
Mistake in those who imagine, that this Pillar was formerly overlaid
with Gold, but was plunder’d of it by the _Turks_; since _Pausanias_
makes it appear, that it was stripp’d of its Gold long before the
_Turks_ took _Constantinople_. _After the Battle of Platææ_, says
he, _the_ Greeks _made a common Offering to_ Apollo, _which was a
golden_ Tripos, _supported by a brazen Serpent_. The Brass, he tells
us, remain’d whole in his Time, but the Gold was carry’d off by the
_Phocean_ Generals. There are five other Pillars in the same Range.
In the Front of the _Hippodrom_, facing the _Propontis_, there was
a Range of seventeen Pillars of white Marble standing, when first I
came to _Constantinople_. They stood on the South-west Side of the
_Hippodrom_. The _Pedestal_ of each of them is two Foot and ten Digits
high, and are all of them supported by arch’d Foundations, which lye
Level with the Plain of the _Hippodrom_, but rise above Ground to the
Height of fifty Foot. They are all placed upon a little Wall, which
projects two Steps, or square Plinths, the lowermost of which is a
Foot and a Digit high; the upper is a Foot and six Digits high, and
projects beyond the Pedestal eight Digits. The Pedestals of them are
every way five Feet, and seven Inches broad. The lowest Projectures
of them, which are placed there for _Tores_ and other _Modules_, are
six Digits and a half high, the upper Projectures of the same Height;
the _Plinth_ of the _Cornice_ is eleven Digits in Thickness; the lower
_Tore_ seven Digits and a half; the _Scotia_ four Digits; the upper
_Tore_ six Digits; the Stone which supports the Shaft is five Digits
high, and the Shafts themselves three Foot five Digits in Diameter,
and twenty eight Foot in Height. These Pillars were lately taken down,
and the _Bases_ of them removed by Order of _Solyman_ the Emperor,
to build an Hospital. I was concern’d to see them thus demolish’d,
not so much for the Use they were intended, but that some of them
were squared out for paving a _Bagnio_, and that the _Capitals_,
made after the most exact Plans of ancient _Architecture_, were cut
into Rude and ill-shapen Models for covering a Bake-house, and that
the _Pedestals_, and all the _Entablature_ were hewn out, it may be
only to build a Wall. The _Shafts_ of the Pillars stood at eleven
Foot Distance. I observ’d the _Capitals_ were impair’d by reason of
the great Space of Intercolumniation. The _Capitals_ were finish’d
after the _Corinthian_ Order, and the _Trabeation_ was beautifully
wrought, but was not adorn’d with an _Ovolo_. There were Iron Rings
fix’d to the _Architraves_, upon which were hung Curtains. Beyond
this was another Range of Pillars, which were remaining some time
after the Taking of the City by the _Turks_. Before it was taken
by the _Gauls_ and the _Venetians_, there were in the _Hippodrom_
abundance of Figures of Horses, both in Stone and Brass. There were
four in particular of surprizing Skill, which were gilded, equal in
Beauty and Workmanship to those which now stand before the Church
of St. _Marcian_ at _Venice_, which, some say, were brought thither
from _Constantinople_. I shall omit the Statues of great Numbers of
Emperors and Princes, which were set up in the _Circo_. Among these
stood the Statue of the Emperor _Justinian_, which has been celebrated
in Verse. There were also the Statutes of some Eunuchs, who were most
in the Interest and Favour with their Masters. Among others, there was
the Statue of _Plato_ the Eunuch, the Emperor’s Chamberlain, who was
burnt to Death in the Reign of _Basiliscus_. There was an Inscription,
according to _Suidas_, fix’d upon the Breast of this Statue, which
ran thus; _Whosoever shall remove this Statue into another Place, let
him be hang’d_. Yet was it taken out of the Church of _Procopius_,
and carry’d into the _Hippodrom_. I have not time to take Notice of
the numberless Statues of all the Combatants, Wrestlers, Charioteers,
formerly placed in the _Hippodrom_; of which, though there is nothing
remaining at present, yet the Memory of them is still preserved in a
small Poem of three hundred Verses, in which some Chariot-Racers are
mention’d with particular Honours, though no Notice be there taken
of a Person named _Thomas_, a Man of surprizing Agility and Speed,
in that kind of Exercise. I have seen the Fragment of a Stone at
_Constantinople_ with this Inscription, Θομᾶ Ἡνιόχου. This probably is
the same Person mention’d by the Emperor _Theodoric_, in a Letter to
_Faustus_ a _Roman Prætor_, in the following Words: _Of our Imperial
Bounty and Consideration we have given and granted to_ Thomas, _the
famous Chariot-Racer, a present Stipend to be continued to him, till
we have farther experienced, and been fully satisfied of his wonderful
Skill in that Exercise; but having now received ample Testimony of his
Superiority in that Performance, and that having left his Countrey, he
hath chosen voluntarily to settle himself within our Dominions, we, out
of our Imperial Munificence, have encouraged him by a monthly Salary
to continue among us. He has, by his frequent Successes, received the
repeated Applauses, and stood high in the Favour of the People, whom he
has sometimes, though unfortunately, vindicated, and at other times has
eminently distinguish’d himself in the Race of the Chariot. Victory so
often attended him, that he was look’d upon as a Sorcerer by a Set of
People, who would have accounted it the highest Commendation to have
been thought so themselves, for the same Reasons. And ’tis no Wonder
that Men should ascribe those Excellencies to the Power of Sorcery
and Enchantment, which they cannot arrive to themselves, the Sight
of a Chariot-Race, in ancient Times, was had in the highest Honour
and Esteem, though at present ’tis little better than the Occasion
of Buffoonry, an Incentive to trifling Disputes, an Encouragement to
Roguery and Sharping, and the constant Source of Broils and Quarrels._
Thus far the Emperor: From whose Words I would observe, that the
Chariot-Racer here mention’d, who had left _Constantinople_, probably
upon some Party Quarrels among the Chariot-Racers (who were therefore
call’d _Factions_) was also in Danger at _Rome_, upon the like
Account. The Commonwealth both of _Rome_ and _Constantinople_ have
not only been often harrass’d with such Commotions, but the Emperors
themselves have often fallen into the greatest Danger of losing their
Government by them. But all the Diversions of the _Circo_ are now
ceased. I was concern’d to see it despoil’d of all its Ornaments,
though the _Turks_ of late have begun to build there again. I was
the more concern’d, because, by looking casually upon a Medal I had
then in my Hand, it put me in mind of _Belisarius_ triumphing in the
_Hippodrom_, after his Victory over the King of the _Vandals_, as also
of the Disgrace and Poverty, notwithstanding his Bravery and Courage,
he afterwards fell into by the Jealousy of the Emperor. On one Side of
it was stamp’d the triumphant Reception of _Belisarius_, and on the
other this Image, with this Inscription, _Gloria Romanorum Belisarius_.
_Procopius_ writes, That there was a Gate in the _Hippodrom_ call’d
the _Cochlia_, because it had winding Stairs within it. There was also
a Passage, through which they went to their Burial-Ground. The same
Writer tells us, that in the same Place there was a _Portico_ call’d
_Venetia_, from the _Companies_ or _Factions_ of Chariot-Racers who
used to assemble there, and who distinguish’d themselves from other
_Factions_ or _Companies_, by a _Sky-colour’d_ Garment, which was
called so from the _Venetians_, a People that particularly affected
that Colour. ’Tis very probable, that the _Prasin Faction_ had also
a _Portico_ here. These were another Company of Charioteers, and
distinguish’d themselves by a _green_ Livery. The Word _Prasina_ being
derived from πράσον in the _Greek_, which signifies a _Leek_. Nor is
it unlikely, that there were other Companies with Liveries of other
Colours, who were not promiscuously crowded together, but seated in
their own Apartments in the _Portico’s_, to see the Races.
CHAP. XIV.
_Of the Church of_ Bacchus, _the Court of_ Hormisda, _and the House
of_ Justinian.
It is observable from the Situation of the Church of _Bacchus_ and
_Sergius_, now standing on the Plain between the _Propontis_ and the
_Hippodrom_, that the Imperial Palace, and the House _Justinian_ lived
in, before he was Emperor, stood near it. _Procopius_ writes, that
_Justinian_ built a Church, and dedicated it to St. _Peter_ and St.
_Paul_. It stood near the Imperial Court, where formerly had stood a
Palace built by _Hormisda_. This, _Justinian_ made a Mansion-house
for himself, that the Beauty and Elegancy of its Building might be an
Ornament to the Palace.