Pennsylvania Militia.—Visit of the President.—Beautiful Scenery
along the Potomac.—Harper’s Ferry.—“Jefferson’s Rock.”
Two days after the battle, General Smith’s Division moved up the river
near to Williamsport, to reinforce General Couch, it being reported that
the enemy were re-crossing the Potomac at that point. The Thirty-third
commenced marching at ten o’clock in the evening, joining General Couch
at daylight. Two thousand rebel cavalry had forded the river, but
upon finding us in force, retired. About four miles in the rear, the
Pennsylvania Militia were drawn up in line of battle across the turnpike
leading to Hagerstown.
There were nearly thirty thousand of this extemporized army, who had
hastened forward from every portion of the State, to assist in repelling
the invader. Clergymen, lawyers, doctors, merchants, mechanics, and
farmers made up the ranks. Among the privates, manning a howitzer, we
recognized Congressman Kelly and Judge White of Philadelphia. The men
were armed with Sharp’s rifles, minies, flint-locked muskets, shot-guns,
squirrel rifles, in short everything that could be classed under the
head of “shooting irons.” They were equipped in every style, from the
neat soldierly uniform of the Philadelphians to the raw homespun of the
Mountain boys. It was truly an imposing militia turnout.
On the 23rd, the Regiment broke camp, and proceeding north on the
Hagerstown turnpike, encamped near Bakersville, where it remained three
weeks. About the 1st of October, the President again visited the army.
Having reviewed the troops at Harper’s Ferry, under General Sumner, he
rode up to Antietam, and after inspecting the battle-field, reviewed
Generals Burnside’s and Porter’s commands. He then proceeded up to
Williamsport, and inspected the troops there, Smith’s Division passing
before him about three o’clock on the afternoon of the 2d. He was
accompanied by General McClellan, and everywhere welcomed with cheers.
Monday, October 6th, Lieutenants Rossiter and Roach arrived with two
hundred recruits for the Thirty-third, who were welcomed in a brief
speech by the Lieutenant-Colonel. Part of them were apportioned to the
various Companies, and the remainder formed into a new Company, D, that
Company having been disbanded. The men very much enjoyed the time spent
in Maryland. The surrounding country was very healthy and fertile,
affording an abundance of everything for man and beast. Sickness and
want, which had so decimated the ranks on the Peninsula, were unknown
here.
Never did painter’s eye rest upon more beautiful and picturesque scenery
than that from Williamsport to Harper’s Ferry. The wide but shallow
Potomac winds gracefully among the hills and through the rich valleys,
lined on either side with stately oaks, spreading elms and weeping
willows, which furnished a refreshing shade during the heat of the day.
Every few rods little rivulets come leaping and dashing down from the
highlands, while an occasional larger stream, like the Antietam, gives
variety to the scene. The canal runs nearly parallel with the river for
the whole distance, divided from it by the narrow tow-path. The boatmen
must have loved to reach this part of their journey, where the tall trees
hide out the sun, and their overhanging branches form one continuous
arbor for the drivers.
Here officers and men used to come daily and recline upon the green
banks, or wander up and down the stream. Occasionally a party would ride
down ten miles to Harper’s Ferry, and spend the day in visiting that wild
scene of ruin.
No village has occupied a more prominent position in connection with
this wicked rebellion. Certainly no other has experienced so many
vicissitudes; for from the beginning of May, 1861, when the rebels seized
upon the place, as a base of offensive operations against Maryland and
Pennsylvania, it has changed hands with the changes of the seasons.
The fortunes of war have transformed it from one of the most beautiful
and prosperous, to one of the most desolate and poverty stricken of
villages. On rounding a spur of the Maryland Heights, it appears on
the opposite side of the Potomac, clustering around the base of a
precipitous hill, climbing its uneven sides and extending inland for some
distance. A substantial bridge has taken the place of General Banks’
pontoons, and trains pass to and fro hourly. Underneath, and scattered
about the abutments, are seen the remains of the thirty-five cars and
engines thrown into the river by Jackson’s forces. The cars land you
among the acres of ruins of government buildings. The black walls remain
standing, and but little of the rubbish has been removed. A huge pile
of gun-barrels, locks, &c., fused by the heat into a shapeless mass, is
all that remains of the thirty thousand muskets deposited in the arsenal
before the war. Large iron wheels are lying about, one of them originally
costing thirty thousand dollars.
It is a singular fact, that of all the government buildings, John Brown’s
famous “engine-house” has alone escaped destruction. This is a brick
structure, some thirty feet square, fronting on the Potomac. It seems
almost incredible that the misguided man could have held it such a length
of time against such fearful odds, and then only to surrender when
stormed by the marines. To have attempted it was unparalleled bravery, or
down right insanity.
The port-holes which the old man dug through the walls have been filled,
the engine removed, and John Brown’s fortress is now used as a rebel
prison house.
The harsh, severe weather of northern latitudes, is never experienced
here, nor, on the other hand, the oppressive heats of more southern
localities. The climate presents that happy medium so conducive to
health and enjoyment. The most romantic and picturesque scenery meets
the eye in every direction. On the right are seen the wild, mountainous
regions of the Virginia Highlands, covered with oak and evergreen, and
intersected with deep ravines; on the left, the precipitous Maryland
Heights, now white with national tents: in front and beneath, the Potomac
and Shenandoah, flowing majestically together, consolidating their
energies, as it were, for cutting a channel through the lofty mountain
range. Close by the bank of the latter is “Jefferson’s Rock,” where that
eminent statesman was wont to retire for meditation and reflection. In
the rear the pastoral lowlands of the Shenandoah stretch out as far as
the eye can reach, rich in cereals of every growth and variety. Of the
thirty-two hundred inhabitants before the war, less than seven hundred
now remain. With but few exceptions, these are Unionists, and, if we
are to believe their declarations, have been so from the first. Fully
one half the houses are vacant, their secession owners having decamped,
and, being considered common property by the soldiers, many of them
have been stripped of doors, windows, and other wood-work, suitable for
camp-tables, stools, firewood, &c. Harper’s Ferry is indeed a sad and
striking commentary upon the rebellion.