To distinguish linen from cotton, examine the threads carefully; cotton
is made up of short fibers which project from the surface of the
thread, and become fuzzy when the thread is rubbed between the fingers;
when broken, cotton has a tufted end, while the linen fibers break
more unevenly and leave a more pointed end. The linen thread should
be stronger than the cotton; it has more luster and is usually more
uneven. Some kinds of linen have flat threads, but cotton is frequently
finished in imitation of flat thread linen.
The old test of moistening the finger and putting it under the cloth is
not always a sure one, as the moisture will not come through a heavy
linen, or one with much starch in it, and it will come through a sheer,
tightly twisted cotton. A better test is to put a drop of olive oil on
the cloth and press between blotting papers. The linen becomes more
transparent than the cotton.
There is a peculiar leathery feel about good table linen, which cotton
will not give, and the luster is different although the difference is
hard to describe.
The typical weaves used for linens are as follows. The damask, satin
or sateen weave used for table linens and towels is especially good
for the former because of the very smooth lustrous surface it affords,
but not so good for towels as it does not absorb moisture very
readily, although it is very attractive. Huck, an uneven weave, giving
a good surface for the absorption of water, makes splendid towels,
and decorated with designs in damask weave may be very handsome.
Many linens in plain weaves are available for clothing, embroidery,
etc., while the coarse Russian crashes are becoming quite popular for
decorative purposes.
The texture of linen is such that the heavier kinds hang well in folds,
lie flat on a table, and are very artistic for many purposes.