CHAPTER III.

TEA VISITERS.

When you have invited a friend to take tea with you, endeavour to render

her visit as agreeable as you can; and try by all means _to make her

comfortable_. See that your lamps are lighted at an early hour,

particularly those of the entry and staircase, those parts of the house

always becoming dark as soon as the sun is down; and to persons coming

in directly from the light of the open air, they always seem darker than

they really are. Have the parlours lighted rather earlier than usual,

that your guest, on her entrance, may be in no danger of running against

the tables, or stumbling over chairs. In rooms heated by a furnace, or

by any other invisible fire, it is still more necessary to have the

lamps lighted early.

If there is a coal-grate, see that the fire is burning clear and

brightly, that the bottom has been well-raked of cinders and ashes, and

the hearth swept clean. A dull fire, half-choked with dead cinders, and

an ashy hearth, give a slovenly and dreary aspect to the most elegantly

furnished parlour. A sufficiently large grate, (if the fire is well made

up, and plenty of fresh coal put on about six o’clock,) will generally

require no further replenishing during the evening, unless the weather

is unusually cold; and then more fuel should be added at eight or nine

o’clock, so as to make the room comfortable.

In summer evenings, let the window-sashes be kept up, or the slats of

the venitian blinds turned open, so that your guest may find the

atmosphere of the rooms cool and pleasant. There should always be fans

(feather or palm-leaf) on the centre-tables.

The domestic that attends the door should be instructed to show the

guest up-stairs, as soon as she arrives; conducting her to an unoccupied

apartment, where she may take off her bonnet, and arrange her hair, or

any part of her dress that may require change or improvement. The lady

should then be left to herself. Nothing is polite that can possibly

incommode or embarrass—therefore, it is a mistaken civility for the

hostess, or some female member of the family to follow the visiter

up-stairs, and remain with her all the time she is preparing for her

appearance in the parlour. We have seen an inquisitive little girl

permitted by her mother to accompany a guest to the dressing-table, and

watch her all the while she was at the glass; even following her to the

corner in which she changed her shoes; the child talking, and asking

questions incessantly. This should not be. Let both mothers and children

understand that, on all occasions, over-officiousness is not politeness,

and that nothing troublesome and inconvenient is ever agreeable.

The toilet-table should be always furnished with a clean hair-brush, and

a nice comb. We recommend those hair-brushes that have a mirror on the

back, so as to afford the lady a glimpse of the back of her head and

neck. Better still, as an appendage to a dressing-table, is a regular

hand-mirror, of sufficient size to allow a really _satisfactory_ view.

These hand-mirrors are very convenient, to be used in conjunction with

the large dressing-glass. Their cost is but trifling. The

toilet-pincushion should always have pins in it. A small work-box

properly furnished with needles, scissors, thimble, and cotton spools,

ought also to find a place on the dressing-table, in case the visiter

may have occasion to repair any accident that may have happened to her

dress.

For want of proper attention to such things, in an ill-ordered, though

perhaps a very showy establishment, we have known an _expected_ visiter

ushered first into a dark entry, then shown into a dark parlour with an

ashy hearth, and the fire nearly out: then, after groping her way to a

seat, obliged to wait till a small hand-lamp could be procured to light

her dimly up a steep, sharp-turning staircase; and then, by the same

lamp, finding on the neglected dressing-table a broken comb, an old

brush, and an empty pincushion,—or (quite as probably) nothing at

all—not to mention two or three children coming to watch and stare at

her. On returning to the parlour, the visiter would probably find the

fire just then making up, and the lamp still unlighted, because it had

first to be trimmed. Meanwhile, the guest commences her visit with an

uncomfortable feeling of self-reproach for coming too early; all things

denoting that she was not expected so soon. In such houses everybody

comes too early. However late, there will be nothing in readiness.

The hostess should be in the parlour, prepared to receive her visiter,

and to give her at once a seat in the corner of a sofa, or in a

fauteuil, or large comfortable chair; if a rocking-chair, a footstool is

an indispensable appendage. By-the-bye, the dizzy and ungraceful

practice of rocking in a rocking-chair is now discontinued by all

genteel people, except when entirely alone. A lady should never be seen

to rock in a chair, and the rocking of a gentleman looks silly. Rocking

is only fit for a nurse putting a baby to sleep. When children get into

a large rocking-chair, they usually rock it over backward, and fall out.

These chairs are now seldom seen in a parlour. Handsome, stuffed easy

chairs, that are moved on castors, are substituted—and of these, half a

dozen of various forms are not considered too many.

Give your visiter a fan to cool herself, if the room is warm, or to

shade her eyes from the glare of the fire or the light—for the latter

purpose, a broad hand-screen is generally used, but a palm-leaf fan will

do for both. In buying these fans, choose those whose handle is the firm

natural stem, left remaining on the leaf. They are far better than those

with handles of bamboo, which in a short time become loose and rickety.

There are many persons who, professing never to use a fan themselves,

seem to think that nobody can by any chance require one; and therefore

they selfishly keep nothing of the sort in their rooms.

If, in consequence of dining very late, you are in the custom of also

taking tea at a late hour—or making but slight preparations for that

repast—waive this custom when you expect a friend whom you know to be in

the practice of dining early, and who, perhaps, has walked far enough to

feel fatigued, and to acquire an appetite. For her accommodation, order

the tea earlier than usual, and let it be what is called “a _good_ tea.”

If there is ample room at table, do not have the tea carried

round,—particularly if you have but one servant to hand the whole. It is

tedious, inconvenient, and unsatisfactory. There is no comfortable way

of eating bread and butter, toast, or buttered cakes, except when seated

at table. When handed round, there is always a risk of their greasing

the dresses of the ladies—the greasing of fingers is inevitable—though

that is of less consequence, now that the absurd practice of eating in

gloves is wisely abolished among genteel people.

Still, if the company is too numerous for all to be commodiously seated

at the usual family table, and if the table cannot be enlarged—it is

better to have tea carried round by _two_ servants, even if an extra one

is hired for the occasion, than to crowd your guests uncomfortably. One

person too many will cause inconvenience to all the rest, however the

hostess may try to pass it off, by assuring the company that there is

quite room enough, and that she has seen a still larger number seated

round that very table. Every body knows that “what’s impossible a’n’t

true.”

In setting a tea-table, see that there is not only enough, but _more

than enough_ of cups and saucers, plates, knives and forks, spoons,

napkins, &c. Let the _extra_ articles be placed near the lady of the

house,—to be distributed, if wanted. We have known families who had the

means and the inclination to be hospitable, that never sat down to table

without several spare _covers_, as the French call them, ready for

accidental guests.

Unless you have domestics on whom you can implicitly rely, it is well to

go into the eating-room about ten minutes before the announcement of

tea, and to see that all is right; that the tea is strong and properly

made, and the pot (which should be scalded twice) is not filled nearly

to overflowing with a superabundance of water. The practice of drowning

away all the flavour of the tea is strangely prevalent with servants;

who are also very apt to neglect scalding the tea-pot; and who do not,

or will not, remember that the kettle should be boiling hard at the

moment the water is poured on the tea—otherwise the infusion will be

insipid and tasteless, no matter how liberally the Chinese plant has

been afforded.

If your cook is not _habitually_ a good coffee-maker, the coffee will

most probably be sent in cold, thick, and weak—for want of some previous

supervision. Let it have that supervision.

We have heard of tea-tables (even in splendid establishments) being left

entirely to the _mis_management of incompetent or negligent servants; so

that when the company sat down, there was found a deficiency in some of

the indispensable appendages; such as spoons, and even forks, and

napkins—butter-knives forgotten, and (worse than all) _cooking-butter_

served in mistake for the better sort. By-the-bye, the use of

cooking-butter should be abolished in all genteel houses. If the butter

is not good enough to eat on the surface of cold bread or on warm cakes,

it is not good enough to eat in the inside of sweet cakes, or in pastry,

or in any thing else; and is totally unfit to be mixed with vegetables

or sauces. The use of butter is to make things taste well; if it makes

them taste ill, let it be entirely omitted: for bad butter is not only

unpalatable, but unwholesome. There are houses in which the money wasted

on one useless bauble for the drawing-room would furnish the family with

excellent fresh butter for a whole year—enough for all purposes.

We know, _by experience_, that it is possible to make very fine butter

even in the State of New York, and to have it fresh in winter as in

summer, though not so rich and yellow. Let the cows be well fed, well

sheltered, and _kept fat_ and clean—the dairy utensils always in perfect

order—churning done twice or thrice every week—all the milk worked well

out—and the butter will surely be good.

If cakes for tea have been made at home, and they have turned out

failures, (as is often the case with home-made cakes, where there is not

much practice in baking them,) do not have them brought to table at all,

but send to a shop and get others. It is rude to set before your guests

what you know is unfit for them to eat. And heavy, tough, ill-baked

things are discreditable to any house where the means of obtaining

better are practicable.

In sending for cakes to a confectioner, do not _a second time_ allow him

to put you off with stale ones. This many confectioners are in the

practice of doing, if it is passed over without notice. Stale cakes

should at once be sent back, (with a proper reproof,) and fresh ones

required. Let the confectioner with whom you deal, understand that he is

_not_ to palm off his stale cakes upon _you_, and that you will not keep

them when sent. You will then find that fresh ones will generally be

forthcoming. It is always well to send for cakes in the early part of

the afternoon.

Have a pitcher of ice-water on the side-table, and a tumbler beside

every plate—as most persons like to finish with a glass of water.

Do not, on sitting down to table, inform your guest that “you make no

stranger of her,” or that you fear she will not be able to “make out” at

your plain table. These apologies are ungenteel and foolish. If your

circumstances will not allow you _on any consideration_ to make a little

improvement in your usual family-fare, your friend is, in all

probability, aware of the fact, and will not wish or expect you to incur

any inconvenient expense on her account. But if you are known to possess

the means of living well, you ought to do so; and to consider a good,

though not an extravagantly luxurious table, as a necessary part of your

expenditure. There is a vast difference between laudable economy and

mean economy. The latter (whether it shows itself in bad food, bad

fires, bad lights, bad servants) is never excused in persons who dress

extravagantly, and live surrounded by costly furniture, and who are

universally known to be wealthy, and fully able to afford comfort, as

well as show.

If you invite a friend to tea, in whose own family there is no

gentlemen, or no man-servant, it is your duty previously to ascertain

that you can provide her on that evening with an escort home; and in

giving the invitation, you should tell her so, that she may know on what

to depend. If you keep a carriage, it will be most kind to send her home

in it.

Even if it is your rule to have the entry-lamp extinguished at a certain

hour, let your servants understand that this rule must be dispensed

with, as long as an evening-visiter remains in the house. Also, do not

have the linen covers put on the furniture, and the house audibly shut

up for the night, before she has gone. To do this is rude, because she

cannot but receive it as a hint that she has staid too long.

If your visiter is obliged to go home with no other escort than your

servant-man, apprize him, in time, that this duty will be expected of

him; desiring that he takes care to be at hand before ten o’clock.

A lady that has no escort whose services she can command, ought not to

make unexpected tea-visits. In many cases these visits produce more

inconvenience than pleasure. If you wish to “take tea sociably” with a

friend, inform her previously of your intention. She will then let you

know if she is disengaged on that evening, or if it is in any way

inconvenient to receive you; and she will herself appoint another time.

Generally, it is best not to volunteer a tea-visit, but to wait till

invited.

If you are engaged to take tea with an intimate friend, who assures you

that you will see none but the family; and you afterward receive an

invitation to join a party to a place of public amusement, which you

have long been desirous of visiting, you may retract your first

engagement, provided you send an apology in due time, telling the exact

truth, and telling it in polite terms. Your intimate friend will then

take no offence, considering it perfectly natural that you should prefer

the concert, the play, or the exhibition, to a quiet evening passed at

her house with no other guests. But take care to let her know as early

as possible.[2] And be careful not to disappoint her again in a similar

manner.

If you are accustomed to taking coffee in the evening, and have an

insuperable dislike to tea, it is best not to make an _unexpected_

visit—or at least, if you go at all, go early—so as to allow ample time

for the making of coffee—a much slower process than that of tea;

particularly as there may chance to be no roasted coffee in the house.

Much inconvenience has been caused by the “sociable visiting” of

determined coffee-drinkers. It is very easy to make green or black tea

at a short notice—but not coffee.

In inviting “a few friends,” which means a small select company,

endeavour to assort them suitably, so as not to bring together people

who have no community of tastes, feelings, and ideas. If you mix the

dull and stupid with the bright and animated, the cold and formal with

the frank and lively, the professedly serious with the gay and cheerful,

the light with the heavy, and above all, those who pride themselves on

high birth (high-birth in America?) with those who boast of “belonging

to the people,” none of these “few friends” will enjoy each other’s

society; the evening will _not_ go off agreeably, and you and the other

members of your family will have the worst of it. The pleasantest people

in the room will naturally congregate together, and the task of

entertaining the unentertainable will devolve on yourself and your own

people.

Still, it is difficult always to assort your company to your

satisfaction and theirs. A very charming lady may have very dull or very

silly sisters. An intelligent and refined daughter may be unfortunate in

a coarse, ignorant mother, or a prosing, tiresome, purse-proud father.

Some of the most delightful persons you may wish to invite, may be

encumbered with relations totally incapable of adding any thing to the

pleasure of the evening;—for instance, the numerous automatons, whom we

must charitably believe are speechless merely from diffidence, and of

whom we are told, that “if we only knew them,” we should discover them,

on intimate acquaintance, to be “quite intelligent people.” Perhaps so.

But we cannot help thinking that when a head is full of ideas, some of

them will involuntarily ooze out and be manifest. Diffidence is very

becoming to young people, and to those who are new to the world. But it

is hardly credible that it should produce a painful taciturnity in

persons who have passed from youth into maturity; and who have enjoyed

the advantages of education and of living in good society. Still those

who, as the French say, have “a great talent for silence,” may redeem

themselves from suspicion of stupidity, by listening attentively and

understandingly. A good talker is never displeased with a good hearer.

We have often met with young ladies from whom it was scarcely possible

for one of their own sex to extract more than a few monosyllables at

long intervals; those intervals being passed in dozing, rather than in

hearing. And yet, if any thing in the shape of a beau presented itself,

the tongues of these “dumb belles” were immediately loosened, and the

wheels of their minds commenced running as glibly as possible. To be

sure, the talk amounted to nothing definite; but still they _did_ talk,

and often became quite lively in a few minutes. Great is the power of

beaux!

To return to the tea-table.—Unless you are positively sure, when you

have a visiter, that she drinks the same tea that is used in your own

family, you should have both black and green on the table. Either sort

is often extremely disagreeable to persons who take the other. Drinkers

of green tea, for instance, have generally an unconquerable aversion to

black, as tasting like hay, herbs, &c. and they find in it no refreshing

or exhilarating property. In some, it produces nausea. Few, on the other

hand, dislike the taste of _good_ green tea, but they assign as a reason

for not drinking it, that it is supposed from its enlivening qualities

to affect the nerves. Judge Bushrod Washington, who always drank green,

and avoided black, said that “he took tea as a beverage, not as a

medicine.” And there are a vast number of sensible people in the same

category. If your guest is a votary of green tea, have it made for her,

in time for the essence of the leaves to be well drawn forth. It is no

compliment to give her green tea that is weak and washy. And do not, at

your own table, be so rude as to lecture her upon the superior

wholesomeness of black tea. For more than a century, green tea was

universally drunk in every house, and there was then less talk of

nervous diseases than during the reign of Souchong,—which, by-the-bye,

is nearly exploded in the best European society.

In pouring out, do not fill the cups to the brim. Always send the cream

and sugar round, that each person may use those articles according to

their own taste. Also, send round a small pot of hot water, that those

who like their tea weak may conveniently dilute it. If tea is handed, a

servant should, at the last, carry round a water-pitcher and glasses.

Whether at dinner or tea, if yourself and family are in the habit of

eating fast, (which, by the way, is a very bad and unwholesome one, and

justly cited against us by our English cousins,) and you see that your

visiter takes her food deliberately, endeavour, (for that time at

least,) to check the rapidity of your own mastication, so as not to

finish before she has done, and thus compel her to hurry herself

uncomfortably, or be left alone while every one round her is sitting

unoccupied and impatient. Or rather, let the family eat a little more

than usual, or seem to do so, out of politeness to their guest.

When refreshments are brought in after tea, let them be placed on the

centre-table, and handed round from thence by the gentlemen to the

ladies. If there are only four or five persons present, it may be more

convenient for all to sit round the table—which should not be cleared

till after all the visiters have gone, that the things may again be

offered before the departure of the guests.

If a friend makes an afternoon call, and you wish her to stay and take

tea, invite her to do so at once, as soon as she has sat down; and do

not wait till she has risen to depart. If she consents to stay, there

will then be ample time to make any additional preparation for tea that

may be expedient; and she will also know, at once, that you have no

engagement for the evening, and that she is not intruding on your time,

or preventing you from going out. If you are intimate friends, and your

guest is disposed to have a long chat, she will do well to ask you, at

the beginning, if you are disengaged, or design going out that

afternoon.

We knew a very sensible and agreeable lady in Philadelphia, who liking

better to have company at home than to go out herself, made a rule of

inviting every day, half a dozen friends (not more) to take tea with

her—just as many as could sit round the table, “with ample room and

verge enough.” These friends she assorted judiciously. And therefore she

never asked a whole family at once; those who were left out

understanding that they would be invited another time. For instance, she

would send a note for the father and mother only—to meet another father

and mother or two. A few weeks after, a billet would come for the young

people only. But if there were _several_ young people, some were

delayed—thus—“I wish James and Eliza to take tea with me this evening,

to meet so-and-so. Another time I promise myself the pleasure of

Edward’s company, and Mary’s.”

This distribution of invitations never gave offence.

Those who were honoured with the acquaintance of such a lady were not

likely to be displeased at so sensible a mode of receiving them. These

little tea-drinkings were always pleasant, and often delightful. The

hostess was well qualified to make them so.

Though the refreshments were of the best kind, and in sufficient

abundance, and the fires, lights, &c. all as they should be, there was

no ostentatious display, and the ladies were dressed no more than if

they were spending a quiet evening at home—party-finery being

interdicted—also, such needle-work as required constant attention to

every stitch.

If you have a friend who is in somewhat precarious health, and who is

afraid of being out in the night air, or who lives in a distant part of

the town, invite her to dinner, or to pass the day, rather than to tea.

She will then be able to get home before twilight.

There is in Boston a very fashionable and very distinguished lady, who,

since her return from Europe, has relinquished the custom of giving

large parties; and now entertains her friends by, almost every day,

having two or three to dine with her,—by invitation. These dinners are

charming. The hour is according to the season—earlier in winter, later

in summer—the guests departing before dark, and the lady always having

the evening to herself.

We know a gentleman in Philadelphia, who every Monday has a

family-dinner at his house, for all his children and grandchildren, who

there meet and enjoy themselves before the eyes of the father and

mother,—a friend or two being also invited. Nothing can be more

pleasant than to see them all there together, none staying

away—for parents, children, sons-in-law, daughters-in-law,

sisters-in-law, brothers-in-law, are all at peace, and all meeting in

friendship—unhappily, a rare case, where there is a large connection,

and considerable wealth.

We wish that social intercourse was more frequently conducted on the

plan of the few examples above cited.

Should chance-visiters come in before the family have gone to tea, let

them at once be invited to partake of that repast; which they will of

course decline, if they have had tea already. In a well-provided house,

there can be no difficulty in adding something to the family tea-table,

which, in genteel life, should never be discreditably parsimonious.

It is a very mean practice, for the members of the family to slip out of

the parlour, one by one at a time, and steal away into the eating-room,

to avoid inviting their visiter to accompany them. The truth is always

suspected by these separate exits, and the length of absence from the

parlour—and is frequently betrayed by the rattle of china, and the

pervading fumes of hot cakes. How much better to meet the inconvenience

(and it cannot be a great one) by decently conducting your accidental

guest to the table, unless he says he has already taken tea, and will

amuse himself with a book while the family are at theirs.

Casual evening visiters should avoid staying too late. Ten o’clock, in

our country, is the usual time to depart, or at least to begin

departing. If the visit is unduly prolonged, there may be evident signs

of irrepressible drowsiness in the heads of the family, which, when

perceived, will annoy the guest, who must then feel that he has stayed

too long—and without being able to excuse himself with any approach to

the elegance of William Spencer’s apology to the charming Lady Anne

Hamilton.

Too late I stay’d—forgive the crime;

Unheeded flew the hours,

For noiseless falls the foot of Time

That only treads on flowers.

Ah! who with clear account remarks

The ebbing of the glass,

When all its sands are diamond sparks,

That dazzle as they pass!

The behaviour book · 第 3 / 24 章