CHAPTER XX.

Ratification of the Treaty of Peace--Exchange of Prisoners--Our

Troops embark for England--When off the coast of Ireland,

receive intelligence of Bonaparte's escape from Elba--The

Author and his Battalion reach the Downs, and proceed to

Thorncliffe--Embark for France--Arrive at Paris, and occupy the

Champs Elysees--Review of the Russian Guards--Russian

Discipline--British Troops reviewed--Accident to Prince

Blucher--Amusements in Paris--The Allied Forces, except the

Army of Occupation, leave Paris--The Author's Battalion embark

for England--Reach Dover, and return to Thorncliffe--He obtains

leave of absence, and visits his Family--His Battalion ordered

to Ireland--Sets out to join it, accompanied by his Wife, who

dies three days after they reach Dublin--His Battalion

reduced--Joins the first Battalion at Gosport, which is ordered

to Scotland--Arrive at Leith, and march to Glasgow--The Author

returns home in ill health--His Father dies--Joins his

Battalion again--Winters at home--His Battalion ordered to

Ireland--Joins it at Belfast--They occupy different stations

during the Whiteboy Insurrection--Six companies of his

Battalion ordered to Nova Scotia, but the Author remains with

the other four companies--He is shortly ordered to proceed to

Nova Scotia--His health declines--Returns home in consequence,

takes advantage of Lord Palmerston's Bill, and retires on full

pay.

On the 5th March, the ratification of the treaty of peace, by Mr

Maddison, arrived; and now all our thoughts were turned towards our dear

native country. On the 15th also, all our poor fellows, who had been

made prisoners by the Americans, joined us at this island, an exchange

in consequence of peace having of course taken place. Many of these

were strange-looking figures when they came among us, most of them

having been stripped of great part of their uniforms, their caps

particularly, and wearing mocassins, a sort of Indian sandals, instead

of shoes or boots, and being so sunburnt as to be scarcely recognisable.

Major Mitchell told us that General Jackson had treated him exceeding

harshly, because he did not choose to give the General such information

respecting our numbers, &c. as he wished. He also said he met with great

insolence on his way up to Natchez, where the prisoners were kept, from

the different parties of Kentucky men, and others, whom he met on their

way down "to take a shoot," as they termed it, "at his countrymen." He

met many thousands in this manner, so that 10 or 12,000 is the very

lowest number that Jackson could have had for the defence of his lines.

I do not remember that we ever had Divine service performed during the

period of this expedition except once or twice, and that about this

time. Indeed the activity required of the army at all times, during the

continuance of hostilities, almost necessarily precluded it. At this

time I remember perfectly the preacher's text was, "My son, give me thy

heart." Alas! how few of the hearts of his hearers were given at that

time to Him who only had a right to demand them! I confess with shame

and sorrow, that almost any trifle, however unworthy, possessed a

greater interest in my heart than He who had formed it, and who alone is

worthy of supreme regard.--The good Lord pardon this neglect, for

Christ's sake!

The regiments now began to go on board the different ships, as fast as

arrangements could be made to receive them; and when on board, they

sailed at once without waiting for the others, there being now no danger

of falling in with an enemy. The weather now began to grow exceedingly

warm, which brought out alligators and snakes in abundance. The latter

were extremely annoying, for they sometimes got into our very tents, and

one on one occasion so frightened a captain of ours (who was not afraid

of man) as to make him sprawl up the tent-pole to get out of its reach,

roaring out at the same time most lustily for help. It was killed and

put into a bottle of spirits, and I believe he brought it home. It was

an exceeding small one, but with the most beautiful crimson, or rather

pink-coloured wavy streak running down its back imaginable. We were told

it was one of the most venomous of all the American reptiles, save

probably the rattlesnake.

The thunder and lightning also became very frequent, and the former, I

think, the most awfully grand I ever heard. It appeared to roll along

just on the very tops of the pine-trees, many of which indeed were

scathed to the very roots by the latter.

On the 31st March our turn came to go on board, and we were rejoiced to

find that the Dover, our old friend was to be our principal ship, the

remainder of the men beyond what she could hold being sent on board the

Norfolk transport. While we were preparing for sea, I took a boat and a

party with a siene, and went on shore on a sandy point of the island,

where I had not been before, and in a short time caught a fine load of

fish, mostly grey mullet, with which we returned on board, greatly to

the satisfaction of all those who shared in them. Every thing being now

ready, we weighed and bid adieu to America on the 4th April, shaping our

course for the Havannah, where our captain intended to call for various

purposes, but principally to replenish his stock, which had begun to get

exceedingly low.

On our passage thither we encountered a heavy gale, which detained us

longer than we had calculated for our voyage. We did not reach that

place till the 19th. Here we found ourselves once more in Espana, every

thing here being exactly like what you meet with in the mother

country,--the same stink of oil, garlic, and dried fish. Speaking of the

latter, which is called by them Bacalao, an officer of ours who kept a

journal, when describing this place, says, "The natives catch a great

quantity of fish on the coast, called Bacalao." Unfortunately it is not

called Bacalao till after it is dried, but Piscado. This brought, as it

might be expected, lots of laughter upon his head.

I need not describe the Havannah, because any one who has a Gazetteer,

may there read an account of it; and which, though perhaps not

altogether a correct one, will be sufficient to give him an idea of what

it is; suffice it to say, it is an exceeding strong place, and would

not, I apprehend, be so easily taken, if the inhabitants are true to

their country, as it was in the year 1762. The capture of it at the time

above stated, made the place extremely interesting to me, for one of my

earliest and best friends served as a lieutenant in the 56th grenadiers

at the taking of it; and often have I heard him expatiate, with great

delight and animation, on the scenes he witnessed, and the dangers he

encountered, in this most arduous undertaking. He is now, poor man, no

more, having died only very lately, and I sincerely trust and hope he is

in peace. The Moro and the Punta, and all the other immense

fortifications, attracted my particular regard, on this old gentleman's

account; but so extremely jealous were the Spaniards, that they would

not permit even us, their late faithful helpers and friends, to view the

works. We visited the theatre, which is a fine building, but heavy and

badly lighted, but apparently well supplied with performers. The piece

on this occasion was Anthony and Cleopatra. There were also some

equestrian performers here from the United States. They had built a fine

circus, at about half a mile's distance from the city, to which every

one of course repaired. All the world was there; even little Connolly,

whom I had known at Cadiz as a major in the Spanish service, was here in

the command of a regiment, and had attained the rank of full Colonel. He

did not seem over anxious to recognise any of his former acquaintances,

nor even to let it be known that he was so much of a Briton as to have

acquaintance with any people of that country; in short, he wished to be

considered a complete Spaniard. I doubt not he is now a rank

apostolical. We paid a visit also to old Woodville, the famous

cigar-maker. He was an expatriated Englishman, from Portsmouth I

believe, obliged to flee his country on account of some smuggling

transaction, and, in doing this, he had changed his name. We found the

old man ill in bed, but able to sit up and speak with us. He wore an

immense long white beard, reaching down nearly to the bed as he sat up.

Yet this old man had a young black wife, and a whole fry of young

mulattoes running about the house like as many little pigs. He was very

kind, but apparently not over well to do. We bought each a considerable

quantity of his famed cigars, for which we paid him, I think, four

dollars a thousand--more, I apprehend, than he usually gets from the

Spaniards for them.

Having laid in such sea stock as we could conveniently procure, and

having stored ourselves well with the delicious preserves of this

country, and withal bought a fine turtle, weighing about two cwt., on

the 24th we set sail for old and happy England, glad once more to set

our faces homeward.

We had a quickish run through the Gulf of Florida, or, as it is more

properly called, the Bahama Channel, and, keeping to the northward of

Bermuda, shaped our course so that we passed a little to the south of

the Great Newfoundland Bank. From hence the wind was roughish generally,

but quite fair, so that we frequently ran at the rate of 200 miles in

the twenty-four hours, the transport being an excellent sailer.

Nothing particular occurred till we were within a few days' sail of

Ireland, when we fell in with an American who had just left England.

From him we learned the totally unlooked-for information, that Bonaparte

had made his escape from Elba, and had returned to France, and that the

whole continent was once more involved in war. Nothing could exceed the

change which this unexpected news produced among our people. Some who

were desponding at the gloomy prospect of half-pay, revived in a moment,

and again set honour, glory, and promotion, once more before the eyes of

their imagination. Indeed, I think no one seemed sorry at the change;

but some probably would have preferred a short repose, before they were

called upon again to leave that home which they had painted to

themselves so comfortable and happy.

On the ---- we arrived at Plymouth, where the good folks received us with

great cordiality; but the news from Flanders now engrossed all

attention, and our unfortunate business seemed forgotten. It was as well

perhaps that it was so, for we had no victory to boast; and with the

world it is but too often the case, that a want of good fortune is

almost tantamount to a want of good conduct. We were ordered on to

Portsmouth, which we reached in two days; and from thence proceeded

still onwards to the Downs. Our arrival was telegraphed to London,

from whence, after some communication by post also with the

Commander-in-Chief, we were ordered to disembark, which we did on the 2d

June. The cause of this being ordered, and of our not proceeding direct

to Flanders, was, that we were extremely ill off for equipment, nearly

one-fourth of our men being without arms or appointments, all those who

had been prisoners, and many of those who had been severely wounded,

having been deprived of them. In some respects the order for our landing

was unfortunate, as far as regards the honours of that great and

crowning victory of Waterloo, in which we consequently had no share;

and, on the other hand, as far as regards my own public accounts, at

least it was fortunate for me, for I was thus enabled to have them

prepared, and forwarded to the War Office, and finally settled without

loss of time, which I could not have done had we left England again

immediately.

We were ordered from Deal to Thorncliffe, our old quarters, where we

found three companies of my battalion, and five or six of the other two.

All our old friends were of course glad to see us; and, under such

circumstances, the meeting of those between whom friendship has long

subsisted, is in a great measure a compensation for the toil and

sufferings of a soldier's life. We continued at Thorncliffe for some

time, but busily preparing once more to take the field; and had

Bonaparte not been so precipitate in his movements, we might have shared

in the glory of his final overthrow.

I was compelled to go to London while we remained here, for the purpose

of settling a variety of accounts, &c., and while there was persuaded to

appear before the Medical Board, for the purpose of obtaining a

certificate as to the nature of my wound, on which to found a claim for

a year's pay, the amount at this time given to all whom that Board

recommended as fit subjects for this bounty. I had omitted doing so when

in London before, because I thought no one had any claim for it, except

such as had suffered most materially in health in consequence of their

wounds. However, at the suggestion of my friends I did appear before the

Board, who considered my wound of such severity as to entitle me to that

bounty; and I accordingly soon after received the sum of L.118, 12s.

6d., the amount of one year's pay. I have reason to be thankful both to

the government and to my friends for this unlooked-for augmentation of

my funds, and trust I did not make an ill use of it.

But at length the news of the memorable battle of Waterloo arrived, and

we had no share in it. I know not whether I shall be believed, but I

think there were few of my companions in the late expedition but felt

somewhat disappointed, and rather vexed, that this decisive action

should have taken place so early, and almost wished that the government

had despatched us even as we were on our first arrival in England; for

really, as it turned out, it was most unfortunate to those of my

friends, who had been undergoing probably as severe and hazardous a

service as any our army had lately been engaged in, and that all that

should be looked upon as almost worse than nothing, while some young

fellows, who had never before seen an enemy, should be covered with the

honours and distinctions which were so amply lavished on them, merely

because they had the good fortune to share in that brilliant and

decisive victory. But regret is vain and unprofitable, and a soldier

must make up his mind to meet with bad as well as good fortune, or he

will only render his life the more miserable.

On the 10th of July we embarked at Dover, and on the 13th landed at

Ostend; but we were entering only on a barren service, the honours

having been all acquired previous to our arrival. We moved forward by

the way of Bruges, Ghent, Oudenarde, and Mons, and then through Bavay

and Chatelet to Peronne; from Peronne through Roye, Pont Lant, Maxence,

and Louvre, to Paris. Here we were posted to the brigade in which our

other two companies were stationed, and occupied the Champs Elysees as

our camp. Certainly the sights we witnessed in this far-famed capital

amply repaid us for our trip to France, however devoid of military glory

that might be.

It will not be expected that I should enter into a detail of all the

lions which this splendid city contains, and which have attracted the

curiosity of nearly half the gentry of this country. Suffice it to say,

we saw the palaces of the Tuilleries, St Cloud, Luxemburg, and

Versailles, with all the splendour they contain--the churches of Notre

Dame and the Pantheon--the Hospital of Invalids--the Garden of

Plants--the Hotel de Ville--the Palais Royal, and the far-famed Louvre.

In this latter, a person might at that time spend a twelvemonth, without

exhausting the curiosities and beauties it contained; but, during our

stay here, we witnessed its divestment of nearly all its most valued

specimens of art, to the great regret, grief, and annoyance of those who

had ransacked almost all nations to decorate this splendid gallery. This

was undertaken and executed by our illustrious Chief, in the name and on

the behalf of this our generous nation. He dealt out with a just and

impartial hand, to all who had claims upon this magnificent collection,

the specimens of art which had formerly adorned their national churches

and palaces, without one painting or one statue of the meanest

description being reserved for himself, who had been mainly

instrumental in this restoration, or for the nation which he

represented.

We saw also the triumphal arch of Bonaparte, in the Place de Carousel,

stripped of its four matchless Venetian horses. The stately pillar in

the Place Vendome was also deprived of the effigy of him who erected it.

In short, every thing was done by the Bourbons at this period,

sanctioned by the Allies, to obliterate even the very remembrance of

such a character as Bonaparte. We visited also the splendid manufactory

of china at Sevres--the National Museum of Antiquities--the Royal

Library, and the Theatre Francais, to witness Talma's performance of

Hamlet, with various other places of curiosity, too tedious to notice

here; and, finally, the catacombs, the repository of millions of human

bones.

Here it is where man is taught to remember what he is--a worm--a shadow

that departeth--even a vapour, which appeareth for a moment, and then

passeth away for ever. Oh, how does all human greatness dwindle into

nothing, while you stand viewing these silent memorials of our frailty!

The myriads of generations that have passed away, multitudes of whose

bones are collected in this vast, dark cavern! Now how noiseless those

who perhaps once shook the world with alarms! I love to meditate on this

sad scene, which, if duly considered, teaches the soundest wisdom. How

apt are we to be allured by the gay fantastic follies of an hour, to

forget that we must soon, so very soon, take up our abode in the dark

and silent tomb! Oh! to be ready, when called upon, to descend into the

house appointed for all living! But though these meditations may be

pleasing to myself, they may not be so to my reader. I will therefore

leave this dark, deep, and capacious charnel-house, and once more ascend

with him to the light of the sun.

We had not remained long in Paris, till there was a grand review of the

Emperor of Russia's Guards, and which took place in the Place of Louis

XV., immediately in front of the Tuilleries. Nothing could exceed the

uniformity and the steadiness of these Northern warriors. There were

troops of all armies amongst them; the Cossacks, the hussars, the

artillery, the grenadiers, and the regular infantry, all vied with each

other in their endeavours to please their beloved Czar. Here were all

the great ones of the earth assembled to witness this imposing

spectacle; exhibited, no doubt, as much as any thing, for the purpose of

showing the French the power of those who now held them in subjection.

But that arbitrary power which is so intolerable to the ideas of an

Englishman, was here exhibited in all its native deformity. A Colonel of

one of the regiments, whose movements did not please the Emperor, was,

without the least ceremony, taken from the head of his regiment, and

rammed into a common guard-house, where an English officer was on duty.

He hesitated to receive him, until assured that such was the custom in

the Russian service, and that it was the Emperor's orders.

My battalion was soon after removed from the brigade it was originally

posted to, and joined another, stationed on Montmartre. Here the

adjutant and myself were quartered on a proprietor of the pits out of

which the famous plaster of Paris is dug. These pits are situated on the

side of this hill, facing the city. From hence I often took a fishing,

or a shooting, or a coursing excursion. The first was generally confined

to the Canal del Ourq, in which I found pike, perch, and tench. I never

was very successful, however, both from the vast numbers of fishermen

which frequented this water, and from the scarcity of fish. Partridges

and hares were abundant in the neighbourhood of Paris, but we had not a

good dog among us. We obtained leave from the Duke of Orleans to shoot

in one of the royal preserves, the Forest of Bondy. In our coursing

expeditions we were more successful, sometimes bringing in to the amount

of seven hares in a day. This would be looked upon almost as poaching in

England, but in France it was otherwise; they know nothing of coursing

there; and nothing could exceed the beautiful country round Paris for

that sport; it was a dead level generally, without a hedge, sometimes

for miles together, and a rich corn country, so that hares abounded.

Towards autumn, we had two or three reviews of the British troops; these

were splendid exhibitions of the tactics of our great General. But

though the army had the appearance of a fighting army, I do not think it

equalled the Russians in point of regularity and uniformity; with them

the whole army is nearly dressed alike, especially the infantry; while

the variety of our facings, and other distinctions of regiments,

detracts greatly from the appearance of the army as a whole. Here also

the crowned heads of Europe assembled in this city, paid us the

compliment of their presence, the Emperor Alexander inspecting most

minutely every regiment and division as it passed him. The Austrians and

the Prussians also occasionally showed themselves in bodies, but I do

not remember to have seen a general review of either of these armies;

indeed neither of them had a large force in or near Paris, they being

mostly at some distance from the capital, I believe. But we were often

delighted with the Austrian Emperor's band, in which there were no less,

I believe, than seventy performers, and all these the very first-rate

musicians. We also had horse-races occasionally, that is, among the

English officers; at one of which I witnessed poor old Blucher receive a

hurt, from which he never recovered. Near the winning-post, the course

was roped in, which the brave old fellow, as he came galloping down, all

life, from the city, did not perceive, and coming up against them with

great force, he was thrown from his horse, and unfortunately broke his

arm. He lingered some time afterwards, but never got well of it, till

death released him. We had two English boxers over there also, to amuse

the people; they only sparred of course, with gloves on; and I rather

think they realized a good deal of money by these exhibitions. Balloons

also were set up from the gardens of Tivoli, with various other sources

of amusement, so that to recount them all would only tire out my reader;

suffice it to say, that in Paris, with plenty of money, and with an

inclination to enter into all the gaieties of the place, no city on

earth, I believe, is so fruitful of the means of pleasure and

dissipation; but they leave a sting behind, which far outweighs these

momentary gratifications; and if I was asked which I considered the most

sinful city in the world, I would without hesitation say Paris.

Towards December arrangements were made for the army leaving Paris, and

going into cantonments on the north-eastern frontier; but the remainder

of the troops above the number required for the army of occupation were

ordered home to England. My battalion was among the latter number; and,

accordingly, we left the French capital on the 3d December, and marched

out to St Denis, that famous burying-place of French royalty. From

thence we passed near Beaumont, through Noailles to Beauvais, thence

through some small villages, where we halted for the night, and on the

11th reached Abbeville.

On the 14th we quartered in Montreuil-sur-Mer, and on the 20th reached

Calais, where we embarked for Dover. We landed at the latter place on

the 22d, and the next morning proceeded to our old quarter Thorncliffe.

All warlike proceedings having now terminated, I made application for,

and obtained, leave of absence to revisit my wife and my family, whom I

had not seen for four years. I need not describe my feelings on once

more beholding those I loved, and the reader will best appreciate them

by placing himself in my situation. But I had not long enjoyed this

pleasure till I heard that my battalion had been ordered to Ireland. I

confess I did not much relish the information. When my leave expired I

started for that country, and endeavoured to procure a passage across to

Dublin; first from Maryport, in Cumberland, but without success. I then

tried Workington, next Whitehaven, but was equally unable to get off

from either of these. I then moved on to Liverpool, and took my place in

one of the packets; but, after waiting several days, I was obliged to

start for Holyhead, the only place from whence I was able to proceed to

Ireland. All this disappointment and fatigue, together with some sad

punches which a large woman in the coach had given my wife with her

masculine elbows, so preyed upon her health and spirits, that three days

after our arrival in Dublin she breathed her last. She had been in

delicate health for a number of years, of an affection in the chest, but

she complained mostly of this woman's elbows, which she said had injured

her much. It will easily be conceived how afflictive such a dispensation

must have been to him who had to bear it. But God does all things well;

and even in the midst of our severest chastisements, we should view Him

as a kind and tender parent, who only chastens us for our good, and who

does not willingly afflict the children of men. A part of the battalion

had arrived in Dublin when the melancholy event took place, almost all

the officers of which favoured me by their presence at the funeral. I

had her buried in St Mary's churchyard, Mary being her own name.

We remained in Dublin for twenty-seven months--a longer period than any

other regiment I believe; and here I think I may truly say I acquired

the first knowledge of the only way of salvation; for although born and

reared a Christian, and having, as the reader may recollect, been

brought sensibly to the knowledge of myself as a condemned sinner, I had

as yet no distinct knowledge or apprehension of the nature of the

Christian faith; and I think I may, under the blessing of God, attribute

my earnest search after a sure foundation of hope to the reading of

Doddridge's "Rise and Progress of Religion in the Soul," and to the

truly evangelical sermons I heard from the many eminent preachers which

fill the pulpits of this capital, but more particularly to the Rev. Mr

Matthias, chaplain to the Bethesda Institution. My narrative will

contain nothing interesting from this period to the general reader. I

will, therefore, generalize as much as possible. From Dublin we marched

to Birr, in the King's County; and while here, it was determined upon by

government to reduce the battalion to which I belonged, which was

carried into effect in January 1819; but as I was then the senior

quartermaster of the regiment, I was ordered to join the 1st battalion

of the corps at Gosport, which I did in February. Here we remained till

September, when the Radical war called us to the north.

We embarked on board the Liffy frigate and ---- corvette, in about three

or four hours' notice, on the 18th of that month, and landed at Leith on

the 28th, whence we marched to Glasgow, the seat of this unhappy

disturbance. I need not describe the Radical war, it being well known.

Here my health began to be much impaired. The affection of my chest,

occasioned by the rupturing of the bloodvessel at Cadiz, produced most

distressing effects upon my general health. I consequently obtained

leave, and returned home for a few months.

During my stay at home my dear father departed this life; and I had thus

the melancholy satisfaction of witnessing the last sad scene, and of

paying the last duties of a child to a beloved parent. He was not, as I

mentioned at the beginning of my narrative, a religious man when I left

home; but towards the close of his life I have every reason to believe

he was a sincere penitent, and a believer in Him through whom alone our

sins can be forgiven; and I have a well-grounded hope that he is now

enjoying eternal felicity in heaven, whither I hope myself to come

through Him that loved me, and washed me from my sins in his own blood,

and to whom be praise and glory for ever. Amen.

I joined again in the spring, and remained there all that summer, during

which I had many pleasant fishing excursions into the country. I visited

the falls of the Clyde, and proceeded to some a considerable distance

higher up, where another officer and myself caught abundance of trout. I

also took a trip into the Highlands of Argyleshire, where I had

excellent sport. But at the approach of winter I was again obliged to

leave Glasgow, the damp atmosphere of which, together with the smoke of

the numerous steam-engines employed in its manufactories, fairly drove

me out. I again went home for the winter; but during this period this

battalion also got an order to embark for Ireland, and I joined them in

Belfast in January 1821. From hence we marched in the spring to Armagh,

where I had the high privilege of becoming acquainted with a sincere and

pious clergyman, one of the reading vicars of the cathedral; and I

trust I benefited by this favourable opportunity. From Armagh we marched

to Naas, the country to the south having become much disturbed by the

Whiteboys, as they termed themselves. We did not remain long at Naas,

but were pushed on to Kilkenny, where I first became acquainted with

that truly Christian minister, the Rev. Peter Roe, a gentleman well

known in the religious world. I am proud and happy that I ever had the

privilege of knowing him. May God prosper his pious and unceasing

endeavours to benefit the souls of his fellow-creatures!

We did not remain long, however, at Kilkenny, but moved on to Fermoy,

and thence to Newcastle, in the county of Limerick, the cradle of the

Whiteboy insurrection. Here we were for a time actually shut up as in a

besieged town; and no individual belonging to the army durst attempt to

move out without a sufficient number being together, to deter the

misguided peasantry from attacking us. Innumerable were the murders that

were committed about this neighbourhood at this time; and one's blood

runs chill to think that these miscreants, when taken and brought to the

gallows to atone for their crime, protested their innocence with their

last breath, although hundreds around them could attest their guilt.

This Rockite war gave us considerable trouble, and it was not for a long

time after that it was finally put down.

We remained in Newcastle till September, when we marched to Rathkeale,

in the same county. Here we continued stationary till October 1823, when

we marched again for Dublin. I had thus an opportunity of again hearing

my favourite preacher; but the place was always so crowded that it was

seldom practicable for strangers to obtain seats.

From Dublin we marched to Belfast, in September 1824, where we

continued till July 1825, when my battalion was ordered for service in

Nova Scotia. The orders of the army being now for only six companies out

of the ten to go abroad, the other four remained at home, to form what

is termed the depot. Application was made for me to remain and act as

paymaster to this body; but it having been decided that quartermasters

could not act as paymasters, according to the new regulations, this boon

was refused me, although I had acted four times before. This is to be

attributed to the ill conduct of many of my brother quartermasters who

had obtained paymasterships during the war, but who generally did not

conduct themselves as men of honour and integrity ought to do, and many

were consequently dismissed from the service. It was perfectly correct

for those in authority to consult the good of the public in all

appointments of this nature, but it was hard on those who were thus made

to suffer for the sins of others,--nay, this ineligibility of

quartermasters extended farther than to the appointment of acting

paymaster. They have since 1817 been precluded from holding the

situation of full paymaster, however well recommended they might be. I

was a second time recommended, in 1820, by Lieutenant-General the Hon.

Sir William Stewart for the paymastership of his own battalion, that is,

the one in which I was serving, but received the same answer from the

Secretary-at-War, that quartermasters were ineligible to the situation.

I cannot but feel keenly the degradation to which the ill conduct of

certain individuals has reduced that situation, which formerly was only

like a step towards the more lucrative and more respectable one of

paymaster; but, as I said before, we must not murmur at the

dispensations of Providence, however severely they affect our worldly

prospects; and no doubt all this was done by the direction of Him who

cannot err. However, I have great reason also to be thankful to Lord

Palmerston, notwithstanding my disappointments as above stated; for

he--taking into consideration the injury that the present quartermasters

had sustained, in consequence of the ill conduct of the individuals

before noticed, and their consequent deprivation of all prospects of

farther promotion, however eligible in other respects they might be, and

however exemplary their conduct--brought in a bill in the session of

1826, to allow these officers to retire on _full_ pay after twenty

years' service in the army, provided their health was such as to render

them incapable of farther service. This could not formerly take place

till after thirty years' service. I have, therefore, abundant cause of

gratitude to that Right Honourable Lord, for his kind remembrance of us

on this occasion, as well as for his kindness in permitting me to avail

myself of the benefit of this act; and I have on this, as on all other

occasions, abundant cause of thankfulness to the Great Disposer of all

events, not only for what He has permitted me to enjoy, but for what He

has withheld from me; for He only knows what is really good for me, and

I doubt not will give me always that. I may with great truth declare,

that goodness and mercy have followed me all my days, notwithstanding my

seeming disappointments, and which I believe were inflicted on me solely

for my everlasting good. To Him, therefore, be praise and glory for

ever.

But to return. Having been disappointed of obtaining the acting

paymaster's place, I remained with the depot in my capacity as

quartermaster till the spring of 1826, when I received an order to be

ready for embarkation to join the battalion in Nova Scotia. Accordingly

I embarked, with four other officers, at Liverpool, on the 14th of June,

on board the Robert Burns merchant brig, and reached Halifax after a

rather tedious passage, in which we encountered some roughish weather on

the 22d July.

I scarcely need say any thing of Halifax, which, being one of our oldest

colonies, must be well known to almost all my readers. Neither was I

there a sufficient time to enable me to enter into a minute description

of the town or country: suffice it to say, it appears to be a town built

mostly of wood along the face of a hill, on the left-hand side of the

harbour, reaching close down to the latter, which is so deep, capacious,

and sheltered, that I question whether there is a better in the world: a

seventy-four can lie close alongside the wharfs. The town contains, I

understand, about 13,000 inhabitants, composed of settlers from

different countries, but chiefly English, Irish, Scotch, and Dutch.

There are a few negroes, a part of the slaves taken from the Americans

during the late war having been located here.

The colony is not so flourishing as it was during war, as it was then

greatly supported by the immense number of ships and troops which always

were stationed here. The country round Halifax is barren in the extreme,

except a very small portion, where hay is generally grown. It seems

incapable of cultivation, being little else than rock, with forests of

stunted pines, &c. growing upon it. In some parts of Nova Scotia,

however, there is excellent land, which yields a great return for

cultivation; and were it not for the severity of the winter, which in

this country is both long and severely trying to weak constitutions, it

would, I doubt not, be an excellent country to which to emigrate. The

waters in every direction afford abundance of fish, but not of the best

quality. There are portions of two tribes of Indians occasionally in the

neighbourhood of Halifax. I forget their names; but the men of one tribe

are exceedingly tall, being seldom below five feet ten inches, and many

reaching to six feet three inches. The men of the other are in general

short. Both tribes are fast diminishing in point of numbers. They are

greatly addicted to the fatal vice of drunkenness, whenever they can

command the means of becoming so; and in Halifax it is no difficult

matter, for the abominable rum which is sold here may be had almost as

cheap as ale in England.

These unfortunate wanderers have hitherto resisted all efforts to induce

them to settle and cultivate the land, although many of them are _good

Christians_, their progenitors having been converted by the Roman

Catholic priests while the French held the country.

The woods, &c. in the neighbourhood of Halifax contain little game of

any kind. There are a few what they call partridges, which, I believe,

roost on trees; but they have more the appearance of grouse than the

partridge of England. There are some woodcocks also in the season, but

they are rather scarce. Snipes also, and several species of plover, may

be met with occasionally; but you will seldom be able to fill your

game-bag with any thing. There are some hares of a very small

description, little larger than our rabbits; but these are rare. Bears

also, with a few other wild animals, occasionally show themselves; but

in winter, I am told, a deathlike silence pervades the whole face of the

country, as if every living animal had totally deserted it, and I

believe with all the winged tribes this is actually the case.

The women here are remarkably fair and beautiful, and, generally

speaking, are, I believe, as virtuous as at home; but among the lower

orders, whose virtue is so frequently assailed by the temptations which

a large naval and military force always brings with it, like our

Portsmouth, and other places of a similar description, the scenes of

vice and abomination are extremely disgusting. A great many of the

unfortunate blacks before mentioned are included in the number of these

unhappy prostitutes.

The places of worship in Halifax are both good and pretty numerous.

There are two churches, two or three Presbyterian or Scotch churches,

two Baptist, two or three Methodist, and one or two Roman Catholic

places of worship.

I did not remain here long; for, finding that my broken and debilitated

constitution could not possibly withstand the severity of a winter in

this climate, I was ordered to be examined by a board of medical

officers, who recommended my return to England without delay.

Accordingly, on the 20th of September, I embarked on board the Borodino

transport. We sailed on the 22d, and on the 25th encountered one of the

severest gales I almost ever witnessed. It carried away every sail we

had set, and swept away our jolly-boat from the quarter. I often wished

I was once more snug in England, and my hope was, I should then tempt

the sea no more. That same all-gracious Being who had so long watched

over me, and had brought me in safety that far on my journey, He also

brought me to my native land once more in peace; for on the 13th of

October I landed at Portsmouth, having been only three weeks in

returning from, while we had been nearly six in going to, Halifax.

I immediately set off for London, where, having reported myself to the

Secretary at War, I was ordered to be examined by the Director-General

of Hospitals as to the state of my health, and with a view to avail

myself of the benefits of the act of Parliament before mentioned, and

being prospered by Him who has always been better unto me than I could

possibly deserve, I have been permitted to set myself down in peace in

this my own native village for the remainder of my life, having the

unspeakable privilege of being surrounded by many kind and dear

relations, who vie with each other in their endeavours to render me

comfortable and happy, and where I can in serenity watch the gradual

approach of that enemy which my Saviour has overcome for me, and which,

my hope is, He will deprive of all his terrors, as I trust he has done

of his sting, and that, when I shall have continued my appointed time in

this vale of tears, I, as well as the reader of this narrative, shall be

taken to Himself, to dwell with Him for ever.

APPENDIX.

The following are copies of fifteen testimonials addressed to the late

Quartermaster Surtees.

No. 1.--FROM LIEUT.-COL. DUFFY.

_Birr, 24th January, 1819._

DEAR SIR,

As you are on the point of removing to the 1st battalion, I take this

opportunity of expressing my entire satisfaction at the very regular and

orderly manner in which your department has been conducted during the

time you have been placed under my command; and it will give me great

pleasure should an occasion occur where my testimony to your

gentlemanlike conduct can be of service to you.

I remain, Dear Sir,

Very faithfully yours,

J. DUFFY,

Lt.-Col. Rifle Brigade.

Quartermaster Surtees,

1st Bat. Rifle Brigade.

No. 2.--FROM MAJOR TRAVERS.

_Tuam County, Galway, 19th April 1820._

DEAR SURTEES,

With feelings of most sincere regret I read your letter to me, which I

received yesterday, and lose not a moment in complying with your

request, which, should it prove to be of any use to you, I am sure will

be productive of the most heartfelt gratification to every one of those

concerned, whose opinions of you are, as they always have been, of the

highest description. Your conduct, both as a gentleman and soldier, has

ever been such as to excite in the breast of your brother officers

sentiments peculiarly favourable; and for myself, I have only to say,

that few of my old acquaintances in the corps have had my esteem in a

higher degree. I send you the sentiments of such of your old brother

officers, in the shape of a certificate, as I could obtain, whose

standing may have some influence in the procuring the accomplishment of

your wishes, and regret that the dispersed state of the regiment

prevents its being more general.

Dear Surtees,

Yours faithfully,

JAS. TRAVERS.

Wm. Surtees, Esq.

Quartermaster, Rifle Brigade.

No. 3.--FROM OFFICERS OF THE 2D BATTALION RIFLE BRIGADE.

The following testimonial is subscribed by us, in hopes it may prove

beneficial to an officer who has so long supported the character which

we are desirous to portray in the terms it deserves.

We certify, that Mr William Surtees, late Quartermaster in the Rifle

Brigade, has been for a considerable number of years known to us in the

regiment, and that for soldierlike and gentlemanly conduct, no person

bore a higher character. He served in the situation he filled in the

corps, particularly that of Acting Paymaster, for two considerable

periods in the Peninsula, and with the expedition to New Orleans, with

credit to himself, and satisfaction to his superiors, and, to our

knowledge, obtained the general esteem and approbation of all his

brother officers of the regiment who knew him.

S. MITCHELL, Brevet Lieut.-Col. and Major, 2d Bat. Rifle Brigade.

JAS. TRAVERS, Brevet-Major, Rifle Brigade.

WM. COX, Capt. Rifle Brigade.

BOYLE TRAVERS, Capt. Rifle Brigade.

CHAS. GEO. GRAY, Brevet-Major, Rifle Brigade.

WM. HALLEN, Capt. Rifle Brigade.

T. H. RIDGWAY, M.D., Surgeon, Rifle Brigade.

_Tuam, 19th April 1820._

No. 4.--FROM LIEUT.-COL. ROSS, C.B.

_Paisley, 15th July 1820._

DEAR SIR,

I learn with extreme regret that you consider it to be expedient to make

application to be removed as Quartermaster to a veteran battalion. I

have stronger reason to feel this regret than I believe any other of

your brother officers, as I have known you longer, it being now about

twenty years since we met at the formation of the Rifle Corps; during

the greater part of this time you served, I may say, under my immediate

command; and I can bear the most ample and unqualified testimony to the

zeal, intelligence, and gallantry with which you discharged the duties

of the different situations you have filled in the corps.

I shall have great pleasure in hearing of your future welfare; and

should it ever happen to be in my power to promote your views in any

way, I hope you will consider that you will only have to make them

known.

Believe me, my Dear Sir,

Ever yours most sincerely,

JOHN ROSS, Lt.-Col.

Major, Rifle Brigade.

Quartermaster Wm. Surtees,

Rifle Brigade.

No. 5.--FROM LIEUT.-COLONEL SMITH, C.B.

_Halifax, Nova Scotia, 25th August 1826._

MY DEAR SIR,

Were it permitted a soldier to regret the loss of his comrades, then

truly should I deplore yours; I have only just learned that you are

about to avail yourself of Lord Palmerston's permission to retire from

the service on account of ill health, after having in your present

situation completed your period of twenty years. You have struggled

against indisposition with manly fortitude in various climes, and have

ever performed your duty zealously and conscientiously.

I, as well as the other officers of the corps, have ever lamented that

your natural zeal and talent as a soldier, should not have been called

forth in a more conspicuous situation; and there is not an old officer

in the regiment who has not witnessed your intrepid bravery in the

field.

I must again assure you, that you leave us with the most heartfelt good

wishes for your welfare, and the universal regret of the corps, in which

you have served so many years with the most rigid integrity and zeal;

and should I have it in my power upon any future occasion to render you

any service whatever, it will afford me as much satisfaction as I now

feel distress, in losing one of my old companions in arms, with whom I

have been so many years happily associated.

And ever believe me,

Your very sincere friend,

H. G. SMITH,

Brevet Lieut.-Col. Rifle Brigade.

Quartermaster Surtees,

Rifle Brigade.

No. 6.--FROM OFFICERS OF THE 1ST BATT. RIFLE BRIGADE.

_Halifax, Nova Scotia, 30th August 1826._

We the undersigned officers present with the 1st Battalion Rifle

Brigade, who have had the satisfaction of an intimate acquaintance with

Mr Surtees for a series of years at home and abroad, beg leave to add

our testimony as to the valour, integrity, zeal, and gentlemanlike

conduct which we have ever witnessed in him; and beg to express our

sincere regret at the prospect of losing his society and services.

J. LOGAN, Major.

W. JOHNSTONE, Captain.

A. WADE PEMBERTON, Captain.

G. HOPE, Captain.

JOHN COX, Captain.

J. KINCAID, Lieutenant.

JOSEPH BURKE, M.D. Surgeon.

GEORGE SIMMONS, Lieutenant.

No. 7.--FROM COLONEL NORCOTT, C.B.

_Halifax, Nova Scotia, 30th August 1826._

MY DEAR SIR,

I most truly and sincerely regret that your long, zealous, and

indefatigable duties have so seriously undermined your constitution, as

to oblige you to retire from the service.

Although I feel a very lively gratification in bearing testimony to your

merit and gallantry in the field, as well as to your public and private

character as an officer and a gentleman, in the most unqualified sense,

during a period of twenty-four years which I have known you, I cannot,

at the same time, but lament the circumstances which bind me, in justice

to your meritorious services, to tender you this my humble tribute of

regard and esteem for all you have done for the service and the corps,

and for such unremitted integrity and worth. You have my ardent wishes

for your health and happiness wherever you go.

Believe me to be,

My Dear Sir,

Always sincerely yours,

A. NORCOTT, Colonel.

No. 8.--FROM LIEUT.-COLONEL FULLARTON, C.B.

_Halifax, Nova Scotia, 25th August 1826._

DEAR SIR,

Having served in the same battalion with you for eighteen years, during

which time I had every opportunity, both public and private, in various

situations of home and on foreign service, of witnessing your very

exemplary conduct, both as an officer and a gentleman, I, with my

brother officers, have to regret that your ill health has deprived the

regiment of a valuable officer, and your companions of a friend, whose

amiable and excellent qualities will ever be revered by them.

With regard to myself, it will afford me the greatest pleasure if at any

future period I can in any way be of service to you.

Believe me, my dear Sir,

Yours most truly,

JAS. FULLARTON, Lt.-Col.

Major, Rifle Brigade.

Quartermaster Surtees,

Rifle Brigade.

No. 9.--FROM LIEUT.-COLONEL BALVAIRD.

_Naas, 2d June 1826._

MY DEAR SIR,

It affords me much pleasure to assure you, that during the time I was in

the Rifle Brigade (13 years), and more particularly when you served

under my immediate command, I can bear the most ample and unqualified

testimony to the zeal, intelligence, and gallantry with which you

discharged your duty--and wherever you may go, you carry with you the

good wishes of,

Yours most sincerely,

W. BALVAIRD, Lt.-Col.

late Major, Rifle Brigade.

Quartermaster Surtees,

Rifle Brigade.

No. 10.--FROM MAJOR-GENERAL SIR A. F. BARNARD, K.C.B.

_Albany, 18th October 1826._

DEAR SIR,

I have heard with great regret that your state of health has obliged you

to avail yourself of the regulation which enables you to retire from the

Rifle Brigade, in which corps I had such frequent cause to praise the

gallantry and assiduity which you showed in the discharge of your duties

in the field, and your regularity and assiduity in quarters.

The officers of the corps, I am confident, will all regret the loss of a

person whose mild and gentlemanlike manners and disposition had so much

endeared him to them.

With every wish for your future welfare,

I remain, dear Sir,

Very sincerely yours,

A. F. BARNARD.

Quartermaster Surtees,

Rifle-Brigade.

No. 11.--FROM MAJOR LOGAN.

_London, 18th October, 1826._

MY DEAR SURTEES,

I have just learnt with much regret that you are about to retire from

the Rifle Brigade, from an impaired constitution, owing to your

unwearied and zealous exertions in the service.

From the period of my entering the Corps, _twenty-two years_ ago, I have

had the pleasure of being intimately acquainted with you, and I must do

you the justice to state, that a more gallant, zealous, and

indefatigable officer, I have seldom fallen in with. As a gentleman,

your conduct always won and gained the esteem of your brother officers.

Believe me I shall ever feel warmly interested in your welfare.

Yours, my dear Surtees,

Most faithfully,

J. LOGAN,

Major 1st Bat. Rifle Brigade.

To Quartermaster Surtees,

1st Bat. Rifle Brigade.

No. 12.--FROM LIEUT.-COLONEL BECKWITH, C.B.

_London, 20th October, 1826._

MY DEAR SURTEES,

I cannot suffer you to return to your home, without adding my mite of

applause to that of our brother officers, who have, together with

myself, known you so well and so long.

From the day that we were employed together at Ipswich, in obtaining

volunteers from the Militia, when you were so instrumental in obtaining

so large a number of men for the service, and during the whole of our

services in the Peninsula, and elsewhere, when my situation as Assistant

Quartermaster-General of the Light Division threw us so constantly

together, until the last period of our regimental service, I have always

known and respected your courage, your active discharge of your duties

in times of difficulty and hardship, and your zeal and affection for the

Rifle Brigade.

Your present poverty is the surest testimony of your integrity, which

you have always kept in times of strong temptation, when very many

others similarly placed have not resisted so well.

All my feeble services are constantly at your disposal, and wishing you

content, and as much happiness as we can reasonably expect here,

I remain, my dear Surtees,

Yours, most sincerely,

CHARLES BECKWITH,

Lieut.-Colonel.

Quartermaster Surtees,

Rifle Brigade.

No. 13.--FROM LIEUT.-GENERAL THE HONOURABLE SIR WM. STEWART, G.C.B.

_Cumloden, Newtonstewart, Nov. 19, 1826._

If the three or four-and-twenty years, my dear sir, that I have had the

satisfaction of having had you under my command in the Rifle Regiment or

Brigade, suffice not to authorize my full approval of your conduct, both

towards that corps and towards the public service, I know not what

experience would do so. To this extent and to still farther extent, if

it be required in detail, I am gratified by your having given me this

opportunity of certifying the above. The loss that my battalion will

sustain by the deprivation of your services will be great, and the only

consolation that I shall have will be in learning that your present

object of retiring on full pay be obtained, and that your health,

injured, as my own has been, by perhaps too great a zeal in the

fulfilment of our respective duties, may be somewhat amended by your

retirement in private life. I have much to thank you for the most justly

merited encomiums from your several commanders and from your elder

brother officers, enclosed in your letter of the 13th instant, and to

these honourable documents favour me by adding this one. I wish it was

in my power to be of any service to your views towards a civil

appointment under government, but as your age much exceeds that to which

all official nominations are now limited, application for such will be

fruitless.

I have the honour to be, my dear Sir,

With repeated assurance of regard,

Your faithful friend and obedient servant,

WM. STEWART,

Lieutenant-General.

Quartermaster Surtees,

1st Bat. Rifle Brigade.

No. 14.--FROM MAJOR EELES.

_Dublin, Nov. 28, 1826._

MY DEAR SURTEES,

I enclose herewith copies of two letters which I have received from the

office of his Royal Highness the Commander-in-Chief.

In congratulating you on their contents, I cannot refrain from

expressing, strange as it may seem, not only my gratification but also

my regret; gratification that you have succeeded in obtaining the object

of your wishes, and regret the most lively, that your state of health

should have obliged you to quit the corps; the more particularly, as the

regiment will not only by your retirement be deprived of the benefit of

your zealous and meritorious services, but I shall lose the society of

one of my oldest and most valued friends.

The senior part of the regiment will ever remember with pride the

glorious occasions in which you so often signalized yourself in the

field, while the younger members of the corps will not fail, equally

with the former, to admire the gentlemanlike conduct and urbanity of

manners which have secured to you the friendship and good wishes of us

all.

Believe me, my Dear Surtees,

Very sincerely yours,

WILLIAM EELES,

Major, Rifle Brigade.

To Quartermaster Surtees,

Rifle Brigade.

No. 15.--FROM MAJOR-GENERAL SIR T. S. BECKWITH, K.C.B.

_Gilsland, June 26, 1827._

MY DEAR SIR,

In returning to you the packet you have favoured me with the perusal of,

I cannot refrain from expressing, in common with all your old friends

and brother officers of the Rifle Brigade, my regret that your health

made it necessary for you to retire from a corps, where your faithful

and unremitting services for nearly thirty years had been so eminently

useful, and where you possessed the friendship and confidence of every

individual of any standing in it.

That your concern is as sincere as theirs in parting with them, I am

perfectly convinced; yet it will be matter of real consolation to you to

be able to reflect that you never gave just cause of offence to any

member of the corps, and never neglected an opportunity of rendering

them a service when in your power.

That you have not retired a richer man, is a subject of regret to us

all; and we shall learn with great satisfaction of any event, that may

tend to increase your means of doing good to those who look to you for

protection.

Should any such opening present itself, I do not hesitate to express my

conviction, that whoever may employ you, will never have reason to

repent doing so; as I am well assured you will undertake no situation,

without due reflection, and the nature of which you do not understand;

and that, once taken in hand, you will discharge the duties of it with

the same diligence and fidelity that you have performed those of your

public life for so many years past.

Earnestly wishing that a little repose after such a lengthened series of

toils and dangers, may restore you to health and strength,

I remain,

My Dear Surtees,

Your sincere and faithful friend,

THOS. SIDNEY BECKWITH,

Col. 2d Bat. Rifle Brigade.

To William Surtees, Esq.

Late Rifle Brigade.

FINIS.

EDINBURGH: PRINTED BY BALLANTYNE AND COMPANY,

PAUL'S WORK, CANONGATE.

* * * * *

Transcriber's Notes

Obvious punctuation errors repaired.

Presumed archaic spellings have not been changed: apprize, assertor,

fusileers, grashoppers, harraing, mocassins, reconnoissance, sailer,

siene, shrapnell, spunging, vere, visiters, woful.

The following words appear both with and without diacritical marks and

have not been changed: Camino, depot, Pena.

There are two chapters "IV". The second one is denoted with an asterisk.

Hyphens removed: "quarter[-]master" (page 60), "wind[-]mill" (page 63,

twice), "Porto[-]Real" (page 102), "brush[-]wood" (page 197),

"death[-]like" (page 139), "road[-]side" (page 274), "fore[-]yard" (page

322).

Hyphens added: "farm[-]house" (page 14), "mid[-]day" (page 61),

"half[-]way" (pages 107, 283), "field[-]work(s)" (page 248, 369).

Page xi: "Ships'" changed to "Ship" (place their Ship Guns on

Batteries).

Page 25: "apppeared" changed to "appeared" (separate body which

appeared).

Page 45: "94th" changed to "95th" (The Rifle Corps, or 94th).

Page 55: Removed duplicate "on" (to stand on the same tack).

Page 55: "Lhe" changed to "Lehe" (Bremer Lehe to the city of Bremen).

Page 60: "Feversham" changed to "Feversham" (I joined it at Feversham).

Page 79: Illegible number changed to "2d" (2d battalion of my regiment).

Page 82: "18th" changed to "10th" (in this affair the 10th hussars

were engaged).

Page 106: "call" changed to "called" (called the Tore Alto).

Page 128: "Pompadours" changed to "95th Rifles" (2d Battalion of the

95th Rifles).

Page 157: "bettter" changed to "better" (no doubt better fed).

Page 209: "Morilhl" changed to "Morillo" (thought that Don Morillo).

Page 245: "officer" changed to "officers" (the commanding-officers had

been taken up).

Page 258: "horse" changed to "horses" (our poor horses and mules).

Page 297: "numder" changed to "number" (to put a certain number).

Page 346: "chooner" changed to "schooner" (the fire of the schooner).

Page 398: Redundant "the" removed (Blakeny of the 7th).

Page 404: "brough, ast" changed to "brought, as" (This brought, as it

might be expected).

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