Naples, April 10th, 1831.
We are so accustomed to find that everything turns out quite
differently from what we expected and calculated, that you will
feel no surprise when instead of a letter like a journal, you
receive a very short one, merely saying that I am quite well, and
little else.
As for the scenery, I cannot describe it, and if you have no
conception of what it really is, after all that has been said and
written on the subject, there is little chance of my enlightening
you; for what makes it so indescribably beautiful, is precisely
that it is not of a nature to admit of description. Any other
detail I could send you would be about my life here; but it is so
simple, that a very few words suffice to depict it. I do not wish
to make any acquaintances, for I am resolved not to remain here
longer than a few weeks. I intend to make various excursions to see
the country, and all I desire here, is to become thoroughly
intimate with nature: so I go to bed at nine o'clock, and rise at
five, to refresh myself by gazing from my balcony at Vesuvius, the
sea, and the coast of Sorrento, in the bright morning light. I
have also taken very long solitary rambles, discovering beautiful
views for myself, and I have infinite satisfaction in finding that
what I consider the loveliest spot of all is almost entirely
unknown to the Neapolitans. During these excursions I sought out
some house on a height, to which I scrambled up; or else merely
followed any path I fancied, allowing myself to be surprised by
night and moonshine, and making acquaintance with vine-dressers, in
order to learn my way back; arriving at last at home about nine
o'clock, very tired, through the Villa Reale. The view from this
villa, of the sea and the enchanting Capri by moonlight, is truly
charming, and so is the almost overpowering fragrance of the
acacias in full bloom, and the fruit-trees scattered all over with
rose-coloured blossoms, looking like trees with pink foliage,--all
this is indeed quite indescribable.
As I live chiefly with and in nature, I can write less than usual;
perhaps we may talk it over when we meet, and the sketches in our
sitting-room at home will furnish materials and reminiscences for
conversation. One thing I must not however omit, dear Fanny, which
is, that I quite approve of your taste when I recall what you told
me years ago that your favorite spot was the island of Nisida.
Perhaps you may have forgotten this, but I have not. It looks as if
it were made expressly for pleasure-grounds. On emerging from the
thicket of Bagnuolo, Nisida has quite a startling effect, rising
out of the sea, so near, so large and so green; while the other
islands, Procida, Ischia, and Capri, stand afar off, and indistinct
in their blue tints. After the murder of Caesar, Brutus took refuge
in this island, and Cicero visited him there; the sea lay between
them then, and the rocks, covered with vegetation, bent over the
sea, just as they do now. _These_ are the antiquities that interest
me, and are infinitely more suggestive than crumbling mason-work.
There is a degree of innate superstition and dishonesty among the
people here that is totally inconceivable, and this has often even
marred my pleasure in nature; for the Swiss, of whom my father
complained so much, are positively guileless, primitive beings,
compared with the Neapolitans. My landlord invariably gives me too
little change for a piastre, and when I tell him of it, he coolly
fetches the remainder. The only acquaintances I intend to make here
are musical ones, that I may leave nothing incomplete,--for
instance Fodor, who does not sing in public, Donizetti, Coccia,
etc.
I now conclude by a few words to you, dear Father. You write to me
that you disapprove of my going to Sicily; I have consequently
given up this plan, though I cannot deny that I do so with great
reluctance, for it was really more than a mere _whim_ on my part.
There is no danger to be apprehended, and, as if on purpose to vex
me, a steamer leaves this city on the 4th of May, which is to make
the entire tour; and a good many Germans, and probably the minister
here, are to take advantage of it. I should have liked to see a
mountain vomiting forth flames, as Vesuvius has been hitherto so
unkind as not even to smoke. Your instructions however have till
now so entirely coincided with my own inclinations, that I cannot
allow the first opportunity I have of showing my obedience to your
wishes (even when opposed to my own), to pass without complying
with them, so I have effaced Sicily from my travelling route.
Perhaps we may meet sooner in consequence of this; and now
farewell, for I am going to walk to Capo di Monte.