Weimar, May 21st, 1830.
Never, in the whole course of my travels, do I remember a more
glorious and inspiriting day for a journey than yesterday. At an
early hour in the morning the sky was grey and cloudy, but the sun
presently burst forth; the air was cool and fresh, and being
Ascension Sunday the people were all dressed in their best. In one
village I saw them crowding into church as I passed, in another
coming away from divine service, and, last of all, playing at
bowls. The gardens were bright with tulips, and I drove quickly
past, eagerly looking at everything. At Weissenfels they gave me a
little basket carriage, and at Naumburg an open droschky. My
effects, including my hat and cloak, were piled upon it behind. I
bought a few bunches of lilies-of-the-valley, and thus I travelled
on through the country, as if on a pleasure excursion.
Some collegians came up to me beyond Naumburg, and envied me. We
then drove past President G----, seated in a small carriage, which
evidently had some difficulty in containing him, and his daughters
or _wives_; in short, the two ladies with him, who appeared equally
envious of my position. We actually _trotted_ up the Koesen Hill,
for the horses scarcely drew bridle, and overtook several
heavily-laden carriages, the drivers of which no doubt also envied
me, for I was really to be envied. The scenery had a charming air
of spring--so cheerful and gay, and blooming. The sun sank solemnly
behind the hills, and presently we came up with the Russian
minister and his suite, in two heavy carriages, each with four
horses, in true ponderous official array; and my light droschky
darted past him like a hare.
In the evening I got a pair of restive horses, so that I had my
little annoyance also, (according to my theory, enhancing
pleasure,) and not a single bar did I compose all day, but enjoyed
complete idleness. It was a delicious day, and one I shall not soon
forget. I close this description with the remark, that the children
in Eckartsberge dance merry rounds hand-in-hand, just as ours do at
home, and that the appearance of a stranger did not in the least
disturb them, in spite of his distinguished air; I should have
liked to join in their game.
May 24th.
I wrote this before going to see Goethe, early in the forenoon,
after a walk in the park; but I could not find a moment to finish
my letter till now. I shall probably remain here for a couple of
days, which is no sacrifice, for I never saw the old gentleman so
cheerful and amiable as on this occasion, or so talkative and
communicative. My especial reason however for staying two days
longer, is a very agreeable one, and makes me almost vain, or I
ought rather to say proud, and I do not intend to keep it secret
from you,--Goethe, you must know, sent me a letter yesterday
addressed to an artist here, a painter, which I am to deliver
myself; and Ottilie confided to me that it contains a commission to
take my portrait, as Goethe wishes to place it in a collection of
likenesses he has recently commenced of his friends. This
circumstance gratified me exceedingly; as however I have not yet
seen the complaisant artist who is to accomplish this, nor has he
seen me, it is probable that I shall have to remain here until the
day after to-morrow. I don't in the least regret this, for, as I
have told you, I live a most agreeable life here, and thoroughly
enjoy the society of the old poet. I have dined with him every day,
and am invited again to-day. This evening there is to be a party at
his house, where I am to play. It is quite delightful to hear him
conversing on every subject, and seeking information on all points.
I must however tell you everything regularly and in order, so that
you may know each separate detail.
Early in the day I went to see Ottilie, who, though still delicate,
and often complaining, I thought more cheerful than formerly, and
quite as kind and amiable as ever towards myself. We have been
constantly together since then, and it has been a source of much
pleasure to me to know her more intimately. Ulrike is more
agreeable and charming than formerly; a certain earnestness
pervades her whole nature, and she has now a degree of repose, and
a depth of feeling, that render her one of the most attractive
creatures I have ever met. The two boys, Walter and Wolf, are
lively, studious, cordial lads, and to hear them talking about
"Grandpapa's Faust," is most pleasant.
But to return to my narrative. I sent Zelter's letter at once to
Goethe, who immediately invited me to dinner. I thought him very
little changed in appearance, but at first rather silent and
apathetic; I think he wished to see how I demeaned myself. I was
vexed, and thought that possibly he was always now in this mood.
Happily the conversation turned on the _Frauen-Vereine_ in Weimar,
and on the 'Chaos,' a humorous paper circulated among themselves
by the ladies here, I having soared so high as to be a contributor
to this undertaking. All at once the old man became quite
gay, laughing at the two ladies about their charities and
intellectualism, and their subscriptions and hospital work, which
he seems cordially to detest. He called on me to aid him in his
onslaught, and as I did not require to be asked twice, he speedily
became just what he used to be, and at last more kind and
confidential than I had ever seen him. The assault soon became
general. The 'Robber Bride' of Ries, he said contained all that an
artist in these days required to live happily,--a robber and a
bride; then he attacked the young people of the present day for
their universal tendency to languor and melancholy, and related the
story of a young lady to whom he had once paid court, and who also
felt some interest in him; a discussion on the exhibitions
followed, and a fancy bazaar for the poor, where the ladies of
Weimar were the shopwomen, and where he declared it was impossible
to purchase anything because the young people made a private
agreement among themselves, and hid the different articles till the
proper purchasers appeared.
After dinner he all at once began--"Gute Kinder--huebsche
Kinder--muss immer lustig sein--tolles Volk," etc., his eyes
looking like those of a drowsy old lion. Then he begged me to play
to him, and said it seemed strange that he had heard no music for
so long; that he supposed we had made great progress, but he knew
nothing of it. He wished me to tell him a great deal on the
subject, saying "Do let us have a little rational conversation
together;" and turning to Ottilie, he said, "No doubt you have
already made your own wise arrangements, but they must yield to my
express orders, which are, that you must make tea here this
evening, that we may be all together again." When in return she
asked him if it would not make him too late, as Riemer was coming
to work with him, he replied, "As you gave your children a holiday
from their Latin to-day, that they might hear Felix play, I think
you might also give me one day of relaxation from _my_ work." He
invited me to return to dinner, and I played a great deal to him in
the evening.
My three Welsh pieces, dedicated to three English sisters, have
great success here;[2] and I am trying to rub up my English. As I
had begged Goethe to address me as _thou_, he desired Ottilie to
say to me on the following day, in that case I must remain longer
than the two days I had fixed, otherwise he could not regain the
more familiar habit I wished. He repeated this to me himself,
saying that he did not think I should lose much by staying a little
longer, and invited me always to dine with him when I had no other
engagement. I have consequently been with him every day, and
yesterday I told him a great deal about Scotland, and Hengstenberg,
and Spontini, and Hegel's 'AEsthetics.'[3] He sent me to Tiefurth
with the ladies, but prohibited my driving to Berka, because a very
pretty girl lived there, and he did not wish to plunge me into
misery.
[2] Three pieces for the piano, composed in 1829 for the album of
three young English ladies; subsequently published as Opus 16.
[3] Felix Mendelssohn attended the Berlin University as a
matriculated student for more than a year; a vast number of
sheets written by him at this period, during the lectures, are
still extant.
I thought to myself, this was indeed the Goethe of whom people will
one day say, that he was not one single individual, but consisted
of several little _Goethiden_. I am to play over to him to-day
various pieces of Bach, Haydn, and Mozart, and thus lead him on, as
he said, to the present day.
I should indeed have been very foolish to have regretted my delay;
besides, I am a conscientious traveller, and have seen the Library,
and 'Iphigenia in Aulis.' Hummel has struck out all the octaves,
etc.