CHAPTER I.

Produced by Owen O'Donovan

VOYAGES from MONTREAL

THROUGH THE CONTINENT of NORTH AMERICA

TO THE

FROZEN and PACIFIC OCEANS

IN 1789 and 1793

WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE RISE

AND STATE OF THE FUR TRADE

By

ALEXANDER MACKENZIE

WITH MAP

IN TWO VOLUMES

VOL. I.

NEW YORK

A. S. BARNES AND COMPANY

1903

Registered at the

Library of Congress, August, 1902

A. S. BARNES & COMPANY

Introduction.

The exact date of Sir Alexander Mackenzie's birth is not accurately

known, although it is supposed he was born at Inverness, Scotland, about

1755. He came to North America at an early age and obtained employment

in the counting-house of Messrs. Gregory and Co., a connexion of the

North-West Fur Company. It was while he was with this company that he

obtained the experience and knowledge necessary to his profession of a

fur-trader, long before he undertook his arduous and dangerous

expeditions to the far North. He was soon to distinguish himself. His

firm gave him a small venture to Detroit on condition that he penetrate

to the back country, which was then almost entirely unexplored, and open

up trade with the Indians. He carried out his task in his usual

thorough manner, but not without a severe struggle with a party of

European traders, who had already obtained a foothold on the margin of

this district, and who resented any interference with their monopoly by

outside parties. However, finally the intruders were permitted to

remain and share in the trade with the first comers. For many years

after this, Mr. Mackenzie was occupied in trading and exploring in

various parts of the continent, but of these operations we have,

unfortunately, little or no record. After the amalgamation of the

North-West Company with the older Hudson's-Bay Company, Mr. Mackenzie

appears to have resided in Canada, where he became a member of the

provincial parliament, representing Huntingdon County. He married in

1812, and afterwards bought an estate at Avoch, Ross-shire, Scotland,

where he resided until his death in March, 1820.

It is as an explorer of the vast and lonely wilds of the North that

Mackenzie's fame chiefly rests. The bravery and hardihood which carried

him thousands of miles over the prairie and muskegs of the illimitable

plains, down the rapids of great unknown rivers, over the ranges of

almost impassable mountains, will always command the admiration of all

who care for noble deeds. With a small party of Canadian _voyageurs_

and Indians, in birch-bark canoes, Mr. Mackenzie started to explore the

unknown regions of the North. Skirting the Great Slave Lake, he finally

entered the Mackenzie River, and then began that long, deep plunge into

the wilderness, which lasted many months, until he finally emerged on

the shores of the Arctic Ocean, in Latitude 69. North. Here he set up a

post with his name and date of visit. The return voyage was fraught

with many dangers and vicissitudes, but he finally arrived safely at

Fort Chippewayan in September, 1789.

Mr. Mackenzie's next expedition was even more dangerous and difficult

than the former. He started from Fort Chippewayan on the 10th of July,

1792, with the object of reaching the Pacific Coast, an enterprise never

before attempted by a European. After more than nine months of perilous

travel he achieved his ambition and reached the Great Western Ocean near

Cape Menzies on the 22nd June, 1793. He is said to have inscribed on

the face of a rock the date of his visit, and here it was that he was

nearly murdered by the natives before setting out on his return.

The results of Mr. Mackenzie's voyages to the far North have not been

meagre. The opening of the territory to the west of the Rocky

Mountains, followed quickly after; and the great Hudson's-Bay Company

immediately started to stud the whole northern country with small

trading posts, whence have been drawn since incalculable riches in the

furs of the North.

All this is easy enough to write down, but the tale is still far from

being told in full. What of the long days of gloom and loneliness, days

of peril and uncertainty, days when hope had almost reached the

vanishing point? Who shall speak? It is a fascinating record which has

placed the name of this indomitable Scotchman beside the names of the

world's greatest explorers.

ROBERT WAITE.

Preface.

On presenting this Volume to my Country, it is not necessary to enter

into a particular account of those voyages whose journals form the

principal part of it, as they will be found, I trust, to explain

themselves. It appears, however, to be a duty, which the Public have a

right to expect from me, to state the reasons which have influenced me

in delaying the publication of them.

It has been asserted, that a misunderstanding between a person high in

office and myself, was the cause of this procrastination. It has also

been propagated, that it was occasioned by that precaution which the

policy of commerce will sometimes suggest; but they are both equally

devoid of foundation. The one is an idle tale; and there could be no

solid reason for concealing the circumstances of discoveries, whose

arrangements and prosecution were so honourable to my associates and

myself, at whose expense they were undertaken. The delay actually arose

from the very active and busy mode of life in which I was engaged since

the voyages have been completed; and when, at length, the opportunity

arrived, the apprehension of presenting myself to the Public in the

character of an Author, for which the courses and occupations of my life

have by no means qualified me, made me hesitate in committing my papers

to the Press; being much better calculated to perform the voyages,

arduous as they might be, than to write an account of them. However,

they are now offered to the Public with the submission that becomes me.

I was led, at an early period of life, by commercial views, to the

country North-West of Lake Superior, in North America, and being endowed

by Nature with an inquisitive mind and enterprising spirit; possessing

also a constitution and frame of body equal to the most arduous

undertakings, and being familiar with toilsome exertions in the

prosecution of mercantile pursuits, I not only contemplated the

practicability of penetrating across the continent of America, but was

confident in the qualifications, as I was animated by the desire, to

undertake the perilous enterprise.

The general utility of such a discovery, has been universally

acknowledged; while the wishes of my particular friends and commercial

associates, that I should proceed in the pursuit of it, contributed to

quicken the execution of this favourite project of my own ambition: and

as the completion of it extends the boundaries of geographic science,

and adds new countries to the realms of British commerce, the dangers I

have encountered, and the toils I have suffered, have found their

recompence; nor will the many tedious and weary days, or the gloomy and

inclement nights which I have passed, have been passed in vain.

The first voyage has settled the dubious point of a practicable

North-West passage; and I trust it has set that long agitated question

at rest, and extinguished the disputes respecting it for ever. An

enlarged discussion of that subject will be found to occupy the

concluding pages of this volume.

In this voyage, I was not only without the necessary books and

instruments, but also felt myself deficient in the sciences of astronomy

and navigation; I did not hesitate, therefore, to undertake a winter's

voyage to this country, in order to procure the one, and acquire the

other. These objects being accomplished, I returned, to determine the

practicability of a commercial communication through the continent of

North America, between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, which is proved

by my second journal. Nor do I hesitate to declare my decided opinion,

that very great and essential advantages may be derived by extending our

trade from one sea to the other.

Some account of the fur trade of Canada from that country, of the native

inhabitants, and of the extensive districts connected with it, forms a

preliminary discourse, which will, I trust, prove interesting to a

nation, whose general policy is blended with, and whose prosperity is

supported by, the pursuits of commerce. It will also qualify the reader

to pursue the succeeding voyages with superior intelligence and

satisfaction.

These voyages will not, I fear, afford the variety that may be expected

from them; and that which they offered to the eye, is not of a nature to

be effectually transferred to the page. Mountains and valleys, the

dreary waste, and the wide-spreading forests, the lakes and rivers

succeed each other in general description; and, except on the coasts of

the Pacific Ocean, where the villages were permanent, and the

inhabitants in a great measure stationary, small bands of wandering

Indians are the only people whom I shall introduce to the acquaintance

of my readers.

The beaver and the buffalo, the moose-deer and the elk, which are the

principal animals to be found in these countries, are already so

familiar to the naturalists of Europe, and have been so often as well as

correctly described in their works, that the bare mention of them, as

they enlivened the landscape, or were hunted for food; with a cursory

account of the soil, the course and navigation of lakes and rivers, and

their various produce, is all that can be reasonably expected from me.

I do not possess the science of the naturalist; and even if the

qualifications of that character had been attained by me, its curious

spirit would not have been gratified. I could not stop to dig into the

earth, over whose surface I was compelled to pass with rapid steps; nor

could I turn aside to collect the plants which nature might have

scattered on the way, when my thoughts were anxiously employed in making

provision for the day that was passing over me. I had to encounter

perils by land and perils by water; to watch the savage who was our

guide, or to guard against those of his tribe who might meditate our

destruction. I had, also, the passions and fears of others to control

and subdue. To-day, I had to assuage the rising discontents, and on the

morrow, to cheer the fainting spirits of the people who accompanied me.

The toil of our navigation was incessant, and oftentimes extreme; and in

our progress over land, we had no protection from the severity of the

elements, and possessed no accommodations or conveniences but such as

could be contained in the burden on our shoulders, which aggravated the

toils of our march, and added to the wearisomeness of our way.

Though the events which compose my journals may have little in

themselves to strike the imagination of those who love to be astonished,

or to gratify the curiosity of such as are enamoured of romantic

adventures; nevertheless, when it is considered, that I explored those

waters which had never before borne any other vessel than the canoe of

the savage; and traversed those deserts where an European had never

before presented himself to the eye of its swarthy natives; when to

these considerations are added the important objects which were pursued,

with the dangers that were encountered, and the difficulties that were

surmounted to attain them, this work will, I flatter myself, be found to

excite an interest, and conciliate regard, in the minds of those who

peruse it.

The general map which illustrates this volume, is reduced by

Mr. Arrowsmith from his three-sheet map of North America, with the

latest discoveries, which he is about to republish. His professional

abilities are well known, and no encomium of mine will advance the

general and merited opinion of them.

Before I conclude, I must beg leave to inform my readers, that they are

not to expect the charms of embellished narrative, or animated

description; the approbation due to simplicity and to truth, is all I

presume to claim; and I am not without the hope that this claim will be

allowed me. I have described whatever I saw with the impressions of the

moment which presented it to me. The successive circumstances of my

progress are related without exaggeration or display. I have seldom

allowed myself to wander into conjecture; and whenever conjecture has

been indulged, it will be found, I trust, to be accompanied with the

temper of a man who is not disposed to think too highly of himself: and

if, at any time, I have delivered myself with confidence, it will

appear, I hope, to be on those subjects, which, from the habits and

experience of my life, will justify an unreserved communication of my

opinions. I am not a candidate for literary fame; at the same time, I

cannot but indulge the hope that this volume, with all its

imperfections, will not be thought unworthy the attention of the

scientific geographer; and that, by unfolding countries hitherto

unexplored, and which, I presume, may now be considered as a part of the

British dominions, it will be received as a faithful tribute to the

prosperity of my country.

ALEXANDER MACKENZIE.

London,

November 30, 1801.

Table of Contents.

CHAPTER I.

Embarked at Fort Chepewyan, on the Lake of the

Hills, in company with M. Le Roux. Account

of the party, provisions, etc. Direction of the

course. Enter one of the branches of the Lake.

Arrive in the Peace River. Appearance of the

land. Navigation of the river. Arrive at the

mouth of the Dog River. Successive description

of several carrying places. A canoe lost in one of

the Falls. Encamp on Point de Roche. Course

continued. Set the nets, etc. Arrive at the Slave

Lake. The weather extremely cold. Banks of

the river described, with its trees, soil, etc.

Account of the animal productions, and the fishery

of the Lake. Obliged to wait till the moving of

the ice. Three families of Indians arrive from

Athabasca, Beavers, geese, and swans killed.

The nets endangered by ice. Re-embark and land

on a small island. Course continued along the

shores, and across the bays of the Lake. Various

successes of the hunters. Steer for an island where

there was plenty of cranberries and small onions.

Kill several reindeer. Land on an island named

Isle a la Cache. Clouds of mosquitoes.

CHAPTER II.

Landed at some lodges of Red-Knife Indians: procure

one of them to assist in navigating the bays

Conference with the Indians. Take leave of M.

Le Roux, and continue the voyage. Different

appearances of the land; its vegetable produce.

Visit an island where the wood had been felled.

Further description of the coast. Plenty of rein

and moose-deer, and white partridges. Enter a

very deep bay. Interrupted by ice. Very blowing

weather, Continue to cross the bay. Arrive

at the mouth of a river. Great numbers of fish

and wild-fowl. Description of the land on either

side. Curious appearance of woods that had been

burned. Came in sight of the Horn Mountain.

Continue to kill geese and swans, etc. Violent

storm.

CHAPTER III.

Continued our course. The river narrows. Lost

the lead. Passed a small river. Violent rain.

Land on a small island. Expect to arrive at the

rapid. Conceal two bags of pemmican in an island.

A view of mountains. Pass several encampments

of the natives. Arrive among the islands.

Ascend a high hill. Violence of the current.

Ice seen along the banks of the river.

Land at village of the natives. Their conduct

and appearance. Their fabulous stories. The

English chief and Indians discontented. Obtain

a new guide. Singular customs of the natives.

An account of their dances. Description of their

persons, dress, ornaments, buildings, arms for war

and hunting, canoes, etc. Passed on among islands.

Encamped beneath a hill, and prevented

from ascending by the mosquitoes. Landed at an

encampment. Conduct of the inhabitants. They

abound in fabulous accounts of dangers. Land

at other encampments. Procure plenty of hares

and partridges. Our guide anxious to return.

Land and alarm the natives, called the Hare Indians,

etc. Exchange our guide. State of the weather.

CHAPTER IV.

The new guide makes his escape. Compel another

to supply his place. Land at an encampment of

another tribe of Indians. Account of their manners,

dress, weapons, etc. Traffic with them.

Description of a beautiful fish. Engage another

guide. His curious behaviour. Kill a fox and

ground-hog. Land at an encampment of a tribe

called the Deguthee Denees, or Quarrellers. Saw

flax growing wild. The varying character of the

river and its banks. Distant mountains. Perplexity

from the numerous channels of the river.

Determined to proceed. Land where there had

been an encampment of the Esquimaux. Saw

large flocks of wild-fowl. View of the sun at

midnight. Description of a place lately deserted

by the Indians. Houses of the natives described.

Frequent showers. Saw a black fox. The discontents

of our hunters renewed, and pacified.

Face of the country. Land at a spot lately inhabited.

Peculiar circumstances of it. Arrive at the

entrance of the lake. Proceed to an island. Some

account of it.

CHAPTER V.

The baggage removed from the rising of the water.

One of the nets driven away by the wind and

current. Whales are seen. Go in pursuit of them,

but prevented from continuing it by the

fog. Proceed to take a view of the ice. Canoe

in danger from the swell. Examine the islands.

Describe one of them. Erect a post to perpetuate

our visit there. The rising of the water appears

to be the tide. Successful fishing. Uncertain

weather. Sail among the islands. Proceed to a

river. Temperature of the air improves. Land

on a small island, which is a place of sepulture.

Description of it. See a great number of wild fowl.

Fine view of the river from the high land.

The hunters kill reindeer. Cranberries, etc., found

in great plenty. The appearance and state of the

country. Our guide deserts. Large flight of

geese; kill many of them. Violent rain. Return

up the river. Leave the channels for the main

stream. Obliged to tow the canoe. Land among

the natives. Circumstances concerning them.

Their account of the Esquimaux Indians.

Accompany the natives to their huts. Account

of our provisions.

CHAPTER VI.

Employ the towing line. Description of a place

where the Indians come to collect flint. Their

shyness and suspicions. Current lessons. Appearance

of the country. Abundance of hares.

Violent storm. Land near three lodges. Alarm

of the Indians. Supply of fish from them. Their

fabulous accounts. Continue to see Indian lodges.

Treatment of a disease. Misunderstanding with

the natives. The interpreter harangues them.

Their accounts similar to those we have already

received. Their curious conduct. Purchase some

beaver skins. Shoot one of their dogs. The

consequence of that act. Apprehensions of the women.

Large quantities of liquorice. Swallows' nests

seen in the precipices. Fall in with a party of the

natives killing geese. Circumstances concerning

them. Hurricane. Variation of the weather.

Kill great numbers of geese. Abundance of several

kinds of berries. State of the river and its

bank.

CHAPTER VII.

Voyage continued. Suspect the integrity of the

interpreter. Stars visible. Springs of mineral

water, and lumps of iron ore. Arrive at the river

of the Bear Lake. Coal mine in a state of combustion.

Water of the river diminished, Continue

to see Indian encampments, and kill geese,

etc. Hunting excursions. A canoe found on the

edge of the wood. Attempt to ascend a mountain.

Account of the passage to it. See a few of

the natives. Kill a beaver and some hares. Design

of the English chief. Kill a wolf. Changeable

state of the weather. Recover the pemmican,

which had been hidden in an island. Natives fly

at our approach. Meet with dogs. Altercation

with the English chief. Account of the articles

left by the fugitives. Shoals of the river covered

with saline matter. Encamp at the mouth of the

river of the mountain. The ground on fire on

each side of it. Continue to see encampments of

the natives. Various kinds of berries. Kill geese,

swans, etc., etc., etc. Corroding quality of the

water. Weather changeable. Reach the entrance

of the Slave Lake. Dangers encountered on entering

it. Caught pike and trout. Met M. Le Roux

on the lake. Further circumstances till our

return to Fort Chepewyan. Conclusion of the voyage.

CHAPTER VIII.

Leave Fort Chepewyan. Proceed to the Peace

River. State of the Lakes. Arrive at Peace

Point. The reason assigned for its name. The

weather cold. Arrive at the Falls. Description

of the country. Land at the Fort, called The Old

Establishment. The principal building destroyed

by fire. Course of the river. Arrive at another

fort. Some account of the natives. Depart from

thence. Course of the river continued, It divides

into two branches. Proceed along the principal

one. Land at the place of our winter's residence.

Account of its circumstances and inhabitants, etc.

Preparations for erecting a fort, etc., etc. Table

of the weather. Broke the thermometer. Frost

sets in. Description of birds.

A GENERAL HISTORY OF THE FUR TRADE

FROM CANADA TO THE NORTH-WEST.

The fur trade, from the earliest settlement of Canada, was considered of

the first importance to that colony. The country was then so populous,

that, in the vicinity of the establishments, the animals whose skins

were precious, in a commercial view, soon became very scarce, if not

altogether extinct. They were, it is true, hunted at former periods,

but merely for food and clothing. The Indians, therefore, to procure

the necessary supply, were encouraged, to penetrate into the country,

and were generally accompanied by some of the Canadians, who found means

to induce the remotest tribes of natives to bring the skins which were

most in demand, to their settlements, in the way of trade.

It is not necessary for me to examine the cause, but experience proves

that it requires much less time for a civilized people to deviate into

the manners and customs of savage life, than for savages to rise into a

state of civilization. Such was the event with those who thus

accompanied the natives on their hunting and trading excursions; for

they became so attached to the Indian mode of life, that they lost all

relish for their former habits and native homes. Hence they derived the

title of _Coureurs des Bois_, became a kind of pedlars, and were

extremely useful to the merchants engaged in the fur trade; who gave

them the necessary credit to proceed on their commercial undertakings.

Three or four of these people would join their stock, put their property

into a birch-bark canoe, which they worked themselves, and either

accompanied the natives in their excursions, or went at once to the

country where they knew they were to hunt. At length, these voyages

extended to twelve or fifteen months, when they returned with rich

cargoes of furs, and followed by great numbers of the natives. During

the short time requisite to settle their accounts with the merchants,

and procure fresh credit, they generally contrived to squander away all

their gains, when they returned to renew their favourite mode of life:

their views being answered, and their labour sufficiently rewarded, by

indulging themselves in extravagance and dissipation, during the short

space of one month in twelve or fifteen.

This indifference about amassing property, and the pleasure of living

free from all restraint, soon brought on a licentiousness of manners

which could not long escape the vigilant observation of the

missionaries, who had much reason to complain of their being a disgrace

to the Christian religion; by not only swerving from its duties

themselves, but by thus bringing it into disrepute with those of the

natives who had become converts to it; and, consequently, obstructing

the great object to which those pious men had devoted their lives. They

therefore exerted their influence to procure the suppression of these

people, and accordingly, no one was allowed to go up the country to

traffic with the Indians, without a license from the government.

At first these permissions were, of course, granted only to those whose

character was such as could give no alarm to the zeal of the

missionaries: but they were afterwards bestowed as rewards for services,

on officers, and their widows; and they, who were not willing or able to

make use of them (which may be supposed to be always the case with those

of the latter description), were allowed to sell them to the merchants,

who necessarily employed the Coureurs des bois, in quality of their

agents; and these people, as may be imagined, gave sufficient cause for

the renewal of former complaints; so that the remedy proved, in fact,

worse than the disease.

At length, military posts were established at the confluence of the

different large lakes of Canada, which, in a great measure checked the

evil consequences that followed from the improper conduct of these

foresters, and, at the same time, protected the trade. Besides, a

number of able and respectable men, retired from the army, prosecuted

the trade in person, under their respective licences, with great order

and regularity, and extended it to such a distance, as, in those days,

was considered to be an astonishing effort of commercial enterprize.

These persons and the missionaries having combined their views at the

same time, secured the respect of the natives, and the obedience of the

people necessarily employed in the laborious parts of this undertaking.

These gentlemen denominated themselves commanders, and not traders,

though they were entitled to both those characters: and, as for the

missionaries, if sufferings and hardships in the prosecution of the

great work which they had undertaken, deserved applause and admiration,

they had an undoubted claim to be admired and applauded: they spared no

labour and avoided no danger in the execution of their important office;

and it is to be seriously lamented, that their pious endeavours did not

meet with the success which they deserved: for there is hardly a trace

to be found beyond the cultivated parts, of their meritorious functions.

The cause of this failure must be attributed to a want of due

consideration in the mode employed by the missionaries, to propagate the

religion of which they were the zealous ministers. They habituated

themselves to the savage life, and naturalized themselves to the savage

manners, and, by thus becoming dependent, as it were, on the natives,

they acquired their contempt rather than their veneration. If they had

been as well acquainted with human nature, as they were with the

articles of their faith, they would have known that the uncultivated

mind of an Indian must be disposed by much preparatory method and

instruction to receive the revealed truths of Christianity, to act under

its sanctions, and be impelled to good by the hope of its reward, or

turned from evil by the fear of its punishments. They should have begun

their work by teaching some of those useful arts which are the inlets of

knowledge, and lead the mind by degrees to objects of higher

comprehension. Agriculture, so formed to fix and combine society, and

so preparatory to objects of superior consideration, should have been

the first thing introduced among a savage people: it attaches the

wandering tribe to that spot where it adds so much to their comforts;

while it gives them a sense of property, and of lasting possession,

instead of the uncertain hopes of the chase, and the fugitive produce of

uncultivated wilds. Such were the means by which the forests of

Paraguay were converted into a scene of abundant cultivation, and its

savage inhabitants introduced to all the advantages of a civilized life.

The Canadian missionaries should have been contented to improve the

morals of their own countrymen, so that by meliorating their character

and conduct, they would have given a striking example of the effect of

religion in promoting the comforts of life to the surrounding savages;

and might by degrees have extended its benign influence to the remotest

regions of that country, which was the object, and intended to be the

scene, of their evangelical labours. But by bearing the light of the

Gospel at once to the distance of two thousand five hundred miles from

the civilized part of the colonies, it was soon obscured by the cloud of

ignorance that darkened the human mind in those distant regions.

The whole of their long route I have often travelled, and the

recollection of such a people as the missionaries having been there, was

confined to a few superannuated Canadians, who had not left that country

since the cession to the English, in 1763, and who particularly

mentioned the death of some, and the distressing situation of them all.

But if these religious men did not attain the objects of their

persevering piety, they were, during their mission, of great service to

the commanders who engaged in those distant expeditions, and spread the

fur trade as far West as the banks of the Saskatchiwine river, in

53. North latitude, and longitude 102. West.

At an early period of their intercourse with the savages, a custom was

introduced of a very excellent tendency, but is now unfortunately

discontinued, of not selling any spirituous liquor to the natives. This

admirable regulation was for some time observed, with all the respect

due to the religion by which it was sanctioned, and whose severest

censures followed the violation of it. A painful penance could alone

restore the offender to the suspended rites of the sacrament. The

casuistry of trade, however, discovered a way to gratify the Indians

with their favourite cordial without incurring the ecclesiastical

penalties, by giving, instead of selling it to them.

But notwithstanding all the restrictions with which commerce was

oppressed under the French government, the fur trade was extended to the

immense distance which has been already stated; and surmounted many most

discouraging difficulties, which will be hereafter noticed; while, at

the same time, no exertions were made from Hudson's Bay to obtain even a

share of the trade of a country, which according to the charter of that

company, belonged to it, and, from its proximity, is so much more

accessible to the mercantile adventurer.

Of these trading commanders, I understood, that two attempted to

penetrate to the Pacific Ocean, but the utmost extent of their journey I

could never learn; which may be attributed, indeed, to a failure of the

undertaking.

For some time after the conquest of Canada, this trade was suspended,

which must have been very advantageous to the Hudson's-Bay Company, as

all the inhabitants to the westward of Lake Superior were obliged to go

to them for such articles as their habitual use had rendered necessary.

Some of the Canadians who had lived long with them, and were become

attached to a savage life, accompanied them thither annually, till

mercantile adventurers again appeared from their own country, after an

interval of several years, owing, as I suppose, to an ignorance of the

country in the conquerors, and their want of commercial confidence in

the conquered. There were, indeed, other discouragements, such as the

immense length of the journey necessary to reach the limits beyond which

this commerce must begin; the risk of property; the expenses attending

such a long transport; and an ignorance of the language of those who,

from their experience, must be necessarily employed as the intermediate

agents between them and the natives. But, notwithstanding these

difficulties, the trade, by degrees, began to spread over the different

parts to which it had been carried by the French, though at a great risk

of the lives, as well as the property of their new possessors, for the

natives had been taught by their former allies to entertain hostile

dispositions towards the English, from their having been in alliance

with their natural enemies the Iroquois; and there were not wanting a

sufficient number of discontented, disappointed people, to keep alive

such a notion; so that for a long time they were considered and treated

as objects of hostility. To prove this disposition of the Indians, we

have only to refer to the conduct of Pontiac, at Detroit, and the

surprise and taking of Michilimakinac, about this period.

Hence it arose, that it was so late as the year 1766, before which, the

trade I mean to consider, commenced from Michilimakinac. The first who

attempted it were satisfied to go the length of the river Camenistiquia,

about thirty miles to the Eastward of the Grande Portage, where the

French had a principal establishment, and was the line of their

communication with the interior country. It was once destroyed by fire.

Here they went and returned successful in the following spring to

Michilimakinac. Their success induced them to renew their journey, and

incited others to follow their example. Some of them remained at

Camenistiquia, while others proceeded to and beyond the Grande Portage,

which, since that time has become the principal entrepot of that trade,

and is situated in a bay, in latitude 48. North, and longitude 90. West.

After passing the usual season there, they went back to Michilimakinac

as before, and encouraged by the trade, returned in increased numbers.

One of these, Thomas Curry, with a spirit of enterprize superior to that

of his contemporaries, determined to penetrate to the furthest limits of

the French discoveries in that country; or at least till the frost

should stop him. For this purpose he procured guides and interpreters,

who were acquainted with the country, and with four canoes arrived at

Fort Bourbon, which was one of their posts, at the West end of the Cedar

Lake, on the waters of the Saskatchiwine. His risk and toil were well

recompensed, for he came back the following spring with his canoes

filled with fine furs, with which he proceeded to Canada, and was

satisfied never again to return to the Indian country.

From this period, people began to spread over every part of the country,

particularly where the French had established settlements.

Mr. James Finlay was the first who followed Mr. Curry's example, and

with the same number of canoes, arrived, in the course of the next

season, at Nipawee, the last of the French settlements on the bank of

the Saskatchiwine river, in latitude nearly 43-1/2. North, and longitude

103. West: he found the good fortune, as he followed, in every respect,

the example, of his predecessor.

As may be supposed, there were now people enough ready to replace them,

and the trade was pursued with such avidity, and irregularity, that in a

few years it became the reverse of what it ought to have been. An

animated competition prevailed, and the contending parties carried the

trade beyond the French limits, though with no benefit to themselves or

neighbours, the Hudson's-Bay Company; who in the year 1774, and not till

then, thought proper to move from home to the East bank of Sturgeon

Lake, in latitude 53. 56. North, and longitude 102. 15. West, and became

more jealous of their fellow subjects; and, perhaps, with more cause,

than they had been of those of France. From this period, to the present

time, they have been following the Canadians to their different

establishments, while, on the contrary, there is not a solitary instance

that the Canadians have followed them; and there are many trading posts

which they have not yet attained. This, however, will no longer be a

mystery, when the nature and policy of the Hudson's-Bay Company is

compared with that, which has been pursued by their rivals in this

trade.--But to return to my subject.

This competition, which has been already mentioned, gave a fatal blow to

the trade from Canada, and, with other incidental causes, in my opinion,

contributed to its ruin. This trade was carried on in a very distant

country, out of the reach of legal restraint, and where there was a free

scope given to any ways or means in attaining advantage. The

consequence was not only the loss of commercial benefit to the persons

engaged in it, but of the good opinion of the natives, and the respect

of their men, who were inclined to follow their example; so that with

drinking, carousing, and quarrelling with the Indians along their route,

and among themselves, they seldom reached their winter quarters; and if

they did, it was generally by dragging their property upon sledges, as

the navigation was closed up by the frost. When at length they were

arrived, the object of each was to injure his rival traders in the

opinion of the natives as much as was in their power, by

misrepresentation and presents, for which the agents employed were

peculiarly calculated. They considered the command of their employer as

binding on them, and however wrong or irregular the transaction, the

responsibility rested with the principal who directed them. This is

Indian law. Thus did they waste their credit and their property with

the natives, till the first was past redemption, and the last was nearly

exhausted; so that towards the spring in each year, the rival parties

found it absolutely necessary to join, and make one common stock of what

remained, for the purpose of trading with the natives, who could

entertain no respect for persons who had conducted themselves with so

much irregularity and deceit. The winter, therefore, was one continued

scene of disagreements and quarrels, If any one had the precaution or

good sense to keep clear of these proceedings, he derived a

proportionable advantage from his good conduct, and frequently proved a

peacemaker between the parties. To such an height had they carried this

licentious conduct, that they were in a continual state of alarm, and

were even frequently stopped to pay tribute on their route into the

country; though they had adopted the plan of travelling together in

parties of thirty or forty canoes, and keeping their men armed; which

sometimes, indeed, proved necessary for their defence.

Thus was the trade carried on for several years, and consequently

becoming worse and worse, so that the partners, who met them at the

Grande Portage, naturally complained of their ill success. But specious

reasons were always ready to prove that it arose from circumstances

which they could not at that time control; and encouragements were held

forth to hope that a change would soon take place, which would make

ample amends for past disappointments.

It was about this time, that Mr. Joseph Frobisher, one of the gentlemen

engaged in the trade, determined to penetrate into the country yet

unexplored, to the North and Westward, and, in the spring of the year

1775, met the Indians from that quarter on their way to Fort Churchill,

at Portage de Traite, so named from that circumstance, on the banks of

the Missinipi, or Churchill river, latitude 55. 25. North, longitude

103-1/2. West. It was indeed, with some difficulty that he could induce

them to trade with him, but he at length procured as many furs as his

canoes could carry. In this perilous expedition he sustained every kind

of hardship incident to a journey through a wild and savage country,

where his subsistence depended on what the woods and the waters

produced. These difficulties, nevertheless, did not discourage him from

returning in the following year, when he was equally successful. He

then sent his brother to explore the country still further West, who

penetrated as far as the lake of Isle a la Crosse, in latitude

55. 26. North, and longitude 108. West.

He, however, never after wintered among the Indians, though he retained

a large interest in the trade, and a principal share in the direction of

it till the year 1798, when he retired to enjoy the fruits of his

labours; and, by his hospitality, became known to every respectable

stranger who visited Canada.

The success of this gentleman induced others to follow his example, and

in the spring of the year 1778, some of the traders on the Saskatchiwine

river, finding they had a quantity of goods to spare, agreed to put them

into a joint stock, and gave the charge and management of them to

Mr. Peter Pond, who, in four canoes, was directed to enter the English

River, so called by Mr. Frobisher, to follow his track, and proceed

still further; if possible, to Athabasca, a country hitherto unknown but

from Indian report. In this enterprise he at length succeeded and

pitched his tent on the banks of the Elk river, by him erroneously

called the Athabasca river, about forty miles from the Lake of the

Hills, into which it empties itself.

Here he passed the winter of 1778-9; saw a vast concourse of the

Knisteneaux and Chepewyan tribes, who used to carry their furs annually

to Churchill; the latter by the barren grounds, where they suffered

innumerable hardships, and were sometimes even starved to death. The

former followed the course of the lakes and rivers, through a country

that abounded in animals, and where there was plenty of fish: but though

they did not suffer from want of food, the intolerable fatigue of such a

journey could not be easily repaid to an Indian: they were, therefore,

highly gratified by seeing people come to their country to relieve them

from such long, toilsome, and dangerous journeys; and were immediately

reconciled to give an advanced price for the articles necessary to their

comfort and convenience. Mr. Pond's reception and success was

accordingly beyond his expectation; and he procured twice as many furs

as his canoes would carry. They also supplied him with as much

provision as he required during his residence among them, and sufficient

for his homeward voyage. Such of the furs as he could not embark, he

secured in one of his winter huts, and they were found the following

season, in the same state in which he left them.

These, however, were but partial advantages, and could not prevent the

people of Canada from seeing the improper conduct of some of their

associates, which rendered it dangerous to remain any longer among the

natives. Most of them who passed the winter at the Saskatchiwine, got

to the Eagle hills, where, in the spring of the year 1780, a few days

previous to their intended departure, a large band of Indians being

engaged in drinking about their houses, one of the traders, to ease

himself of the troublesome importunities of a native, gave him a dose of

laudanum in a glass of grog, which effectually prevented him from giving

further trouble to any one, by setting him asleep for ever. This

accident produced a fray, in which one of the traders, and several of

the men were killed, while the rest had no other means to save

themselves but by a precipitate flight, abandoning a considerable

quantity of goods, and near half the furs which they had collected

during the winter and the spring.

About the same time, two of the establishments on the Assiniboin river,

were attacked with less justice, when several white men, and a great

number of Indians were killed. In short, it appeared, that the natives

had formed a resolution to extirpate the traders; and, without entering

into any further reasonings on the subject, it appears to be

incontrovertible, that the irregularity pursued in carrying on the trade

has brought it into its present forlorn situation; and nothing but the

greatest calamity that could have befallen the natives, saved the

traders from destruction: this was the small-pox, which spread its

destructive and desolating power, as the fire consumes the dry grass of

the field. The fatal infection spread around with a baneful rapidity

which no flight could escape, and with a fatal effect that nothing could

resist. It destroyed with its pestilential breath whole families and

tribes; and the horrid scene presented to those who had the melancholy

and afflicting opportunity of beholding it, a combination of the dead,

the dying, and such as to avoid the horrid fate of their friends around

them, prepared to disappoint the plague of its prey, by terminating their

own existence.

The habits and lives of these devoted people, which provided not to-day

for the wants of to-morrow, must have heightened the pains of such an

affliction, by leaving them not only without remedy, but even without

alleviation. Naught was left them but to submit in agony and despair.

To aggravate the picture, if aggravation were possible, may be added,

the putrid carcases which the wolves, with a furious voracity, dragged

forth from the huts, or which were mangled within them by the dogs,

whose hunger was satisfied with the disfigured remains of their masters.

Nor was it uncommon for the father of a family, whom the infection had

not reached, to call them around him to represent the cruel sufferings

and horrid fate of their relations, from the influence of some evil

spirit who was preparing to extirpate their race; and to incite them to

baffle death, with all its horrors, by their own poniards. At the same

time, if their hearts failed them in this necessary act, he was himself

ready to perform the deed of mercy with his own hand, as the last act of

his affection, and instantly to follow them to the common place of rest

and refuge from human evil.

It was never satisfactorily ascertained by what means this malignant

disorder was introduced, but it was generally supposed to be from the

Missisouri, by a war party.

The consequence of this melancholy event to the traders must be

self-evident; the means of disposing of their goods were cut off; and no

furs were obtained, but such as had been gathered from the habitations

of the deceased Indians, which could not be very considerable: nor did

they look from the losses of the present year, with any encouraging

expectations to those which were to come. The only fortunate people

consisted of a party who had again penetrated to the Northward and

Westward in 1780, at some distance up the Missinipi, or English river,

to Lake la Ronge. Two unfortunate circumstances, however, happened to

them; which are as follow:

Mr. Wadin, a Swiss gentleman, of strict probity and known sobriety, had

gone there in the year 1779, and remained during the summer of 1780.

His partners and others, engaged in an opposite interest, when at the

Grande Portage, agreed to send a quantity of goods on their joint

account, which was accepted, and Mr. Pond was proposed by them to be

their representative to act in conjunction with Mr. Wadin. Two men, of

more opposite characters, could not, perhaps, have been found. In

short, from various causes, their situations became very uncomfortable

to each other, and mutual ill-will was the natural consequence: without

entering, therefore, into a minute history of these transactions, it

will be sufficient to observe, that, about the end of the year 1780, or

the beginning of 1781, Mr. Wadin had received Mr. Pond and one of his

own clerks to dinner; and, in the course of the night, the former was

shot through the lower part of the thigh, when it was said that he

expired from the loss of blood, and was buried next morning at eight

o'clock. Mr. Pond, and the clerk, were tried for this murder at

Montreal, and acquitted: nevertheless, their innocence was not so

apparent as to extinguish the original suspicion.

The other circumstance was this. In the spring of the year, Mr. Pond

sent the abovementioned clerk to meet the Indians from the Northward,

who used to go annually to Hudson's Bay; when he easily persuaded them

to trade with him, and return back, that they might not take the

contagion which had depopulated the country to the Eastward of them: but

most unfortunately they caught it here, and carried it with them, to the

destruction of themselves and the neighbouring tribes.

The country being thus depopulated, the traders and their friends from

Canada, who, from various causes already mentioned, were very much

reduced in number, became confined to two parties, who began seriously

to think of making permanent establishments on the Missinipi river, and

at Athabasca; for which purpose, in 1781-2, they selected their best

canoe-men, being ignorant that the small-pox penetrated that way. The

most expeditious party got only in time to the Portage la Loche, or

Mithy-Ouinigam, which divides the waters of the Missinipi from those

that fall into the Elk river, to despatch one canoe strong-handed, and

light-loaded, to that country; but, on their arrival there, they found,

in every direction, the ravages of the small-pox; so that, from the

great diminution of the natives, they returned in the spring with no

more than seven packages of beaver. The strong woods and mountainous

countries afforded a refuge to those who fled from the contagion of the

plains; but they were so alarmed at the surrounding destruction, that

they avoided the traders, and were dispirited from hunting, except for

their subsistence. The traders, however, who returned into the country

in the year 1782-3, found the inhabitants in some sort of tranquillity,

and more numerous than they had reason to expect, so that their success

was proportionably better.

During the winter of 1783-4, the merchants of Canada, engaged in this

trade, formed a junction of interests, under the name of the North-West

Company, and divided it into sixteen shares, without depositing any

capital; each party furnishing a proportion or quota of such articles as

were necessary to carry on the trade: the respective parties agreeing to

satisfy the friends they had in the country, who were not provided for,

according to this agreement, out of the proportions which they held.

The management of the whole was accordingly entrusted to

Messrs. Benjamin and Joseph Frobisher, and Mr. Simon M'Tavish, two

distinct houses, who had the greatest interest and influence in the

country, and for which they were to receive a stipulated commission in

all transactions.

In the spring, two of those gentlemen went to the Grande Portage with

their credentials, which were confirmed and ratified by all the parties

having an option, except Mr. Peter Pond, who was not satisfied with the

share allotted him. Accordingly he, and another gentleman, Mr. Peter

Pangman, who had a right to be a partner, but for whom no provision had

been made, came to Canada, with a determination to return to the

country, if they could find any persons to join them, and give their

scheme a proper support.

The traders in the country, and merchants at Montreal, thus entered into

a co-partnership, which, by these means, was consolidated and directed

by able men, who, from the powers with which they were entrusted, would

carry on the trade to the utmost extent it would bear. The traders in

the country, therefore, having every reason to expect that their past

and future labours would be recompensed, forgot all their former

animosities, and engaged with the utmost spirit and activity, to forward

the general interest; so that, in the following year, they met their

agents at the Grande Portage, with their canoes laden with rich furs

from the different parts of that immense tract of country. But this

satisfaction was not to be enjoyed without some interruption; and they

were mortified to find that Mr. Pangman had prevailed on Messrs. Gregory

and Macleod to join him, and give him their support in the business,

though deserted by Mr. Pond, who accepted the terms offered by his

former associates.

In the counting-house of Mr. Gregory I had been five years; and at this

period had left him, with a small adventure of goods, with which he had

entrusted me, to seek my fortune at Detroit. He, without any

solicitation on my part, had procured an insertion in the agreement,

that I should be admitted a partner in this business, on condition that

I would proceed to the Indian country in the following spring, 1785.

His partner came to Detroit to make me such a proposition. I readily

assented to it, and immediately proceeded to the Grande Portage, where I

joined my associates.

We now found that independent of the natural difficulties of the

undertaking, we should have to encounter every other which they, who

were already in possession of the trade of the country, could throw in

our way, and which their circumstances enabled them to do. Nor did they

doubt, from their own superior experience, as well as that of their

clerks and men, with their local knowledge of the country and its

inhabitants, that they should soon compel us to leave the country to

them. The event, however, did not justify their expectations; for,

after the severest struggle ever known in that part of the world, and

suffering every oppression which a jealous and rival spirit could

instigate; after the murder of one of our partners, the laming of

another, and the narrow escape of one of our clerks, who received a

bullet through his powder horn, in the execution of his duty, they were

compelled to allow us a share of the trade. As we had already incurred

a loss, this union was, in every respect, a desirable event to us, and

was concluded in the month of July, 1787.

This commercial establishment was now founded on a more solid basis than

any hitherto known in the country; and it not only continued in full

force, vigour, and prosperity, in spite of all interference from Canada,

but maintained at least an equal share of advantage with the

Hudson's-Bay Company, notwithstanding the superiority of their local

situation. The following account of this self-erected concern will

manifest the cause of its success.

It assumed the title of the North-West Company, and was no more than an

association of commercial men, agreeing among themselves to carry on the

fur trade, unconnected with any other business, though many of the

parties engaged had extensive concerns altogether foreign to it. It may

be said to have been supported entirely upon credit; for, whether the

capital belonged to the proprietor, or was borrowed, it equally bore

interest, for which the association was annually accountable. It

consisted of twenty shares, unequally divided among the persons

concerned. Of these, a certain proportion was held by the people who

managed the business in Canada, and were styled agents for the Company.

Their duty was to import the necessary goods from England, store them at

their own expense at Montreal, get them made up into articles suited to

the trade, pack and forward them, and supply the cash that might be

wanting for the outfits, for which they received, independent of the

profit on their shares, a commission on the amount of the accounts,

which they were obliged to make out annually, and keep the adventure of

each year distinct. Two of them went annually to the Grande Portage, to

manage and transact the business there, and on the communication at

Detroit, Michilimakinac, St. Mary's, and at Montreal, where they

received, stored, packed up, and shipped the company's furs for England,

on which they had also a small commission. The remaining shares were

held by the proprietors, who were obliged to winter and manage the

business of the concern with the Indians, and their respective clerks,

etc. They were not supposed to be under any obligation to furnish

capital, or even credit. If they obtained any capital by the trade, it

was to remain in the hands of the agents; for which they were allowed

interest. Some of them, from their long services and influence, held

double shares, and were allowed to retire from the business at any

period of the existing concern, with one of those shares, naming any

young man in the company's service to succeed him in the other.

Seniority and merit were, however, considered as affording a claim to

the succession, which, nevertheless, could not be disposed of without

the concurrence of the majority of the concern; who, at the same time,

relieved the seceding person from any responsibility respecting the

share that he transferred, and accounted for it according to the annual

value or rate of the property; so that the seller could have no

advantage, but that of getting the share of stock which he retained

realised, and receiving for the transferred share what was fairly

determined to be the worth of it. The former was also discharged from

all duty, and became a dormant partner. Thus, all the young men who

were not provided for at the beginning of the contract, succeeded in

succession to the character and advantages of partners. They entered

into the Company's service for five or seven years, under such

expectations, and their reasonable prospects were seldom disappointed:

there were, indeed, instances when they succeeded to shares, before

their apprenticeship was expired, and it frequently happened, that they

were provided for while they were in a state of articled clerkship.

Shares were transferable only to the concern at large, as no person

could be admitted as a partner who had not served his time to the trade.

The dormant partner indeed might dispose of his interest to any one he

chose, but if the transaction was not acknowledged by his associates,

the purchaser could only be considered as his agent or attorney. Every

share had a vote, and two-thirds formed a majority. This regular and

equitable mode of providing for the clerks of the company, excited a

spirit of emulation in the discharge of their various duties, and in

fact, made every agent a principal, who perceived his own prosperity to

be immediately connected with that of his employers. Indeed, without

such a spirit, such a trade could not have become so extended and

advantageous, as it has been and now is.

In 1788, the gross amount of the adventure for the year did not exceed

forty thousand pounds,[1] but by the exertion, enterprise, and industry

of the proprietors, it was brought, in eleven years, to triple that

amount and upwards; yielding proportionate profits, and surpassing, in

short, any thing known in America.

Such, therefore, being the prosperous state of the company, it, very

naturally, tempted others to interfere with the concern in a manner by

no means beneficial to the company, and commonly ruinous to the

undertakers.

In 1798 the concern underwent a new form, the shares were increased to

forty-six, new partners being admitted, and others retiring. This

period was the termination of the company, which was not renewed by all

the parties concerned in it, the majority continuing to act upon the old

stock, and under the old firm; the others beginning a new one; and it

now remains to be decided, whether two parties, under the same

regulations and by the same exertions, though unequal in number, can

continue to carry on the business to a successful issue. The contrary

opinion has been held, which if verified, will make it the interest of

the parties again to coalesce; for neither is deficient in capital to

support their obstinacy in a losing trade, as it is not to be supposed

that either will yield on any other terms than perpetual participation.

It will not be superfluous in this place, to explain the general mode of

carrying on the fur trade.

The agents are obliged to order the necessary goods from England in the

month of October, eighteen months before they can leave Montreal; that

is, they are not shipped from London until the spring following, when

they arrive in Canada in the summer. In the course of the following

winter they are made up into such articles as are required for the

savages; they are then packed into parcels of ninety pounds weight each,

but cannot be sent from Montreal until the May following; so that they

do not get to market until the ensuing winter, when they are exchanged

for furs, which come to Montreal the next fall, and from thence are

shipped, chiefly to London, where they are not sold or paid for before

the succeeding spring, or even as late as June; which is forty-two

months after the goods were ordered in Canada; thirty-six after they had

been shipped from England, and twenty-four after they had been forwarded

from Montreal; so that the merchant, allowing that he has twelve months'

credit, does not receive a return to pay for those goods, and the

necessary expenses attending them, which is about equal to the value of

the goods themselves, till two years after they are considered as cash,

which makes this a very heavy business. There is even a small

proportion of it that requires twelve months longer to bring round the

payment, going to, the immense distance it is carried, and from the

shortness of the seasons, which prevents the furs, even after they are

collected, from coming out of the country for that period.[2]

The articles necessary for this trade, are coarse woollen cloths of

different kinds; milled blankets of different sizes; arms and

ammunition; twist and carrot tobacco; Manchester goods; linens, and

coarse sheetings; thread, lines, and twine; common hardware; cutlery and

ironmongery of several descriptions; kettles of brass and copper, and

sheet-iron; silk and cotton handkerchiefs, hats, shoes, and hose;

calicoes and printed cottons, etc., etc., etc. Spirituous liquors and

provisions are purchased in Canada. These, and the expense of transport

to and from the Indian country, including wages to clerks, interpreters,

guides, and canoe-men, with the expense of making up the goods for the

market, form about half the annual amount against the adventure.

This expenditure in Canada ultimately tends to the encouragement of

British manufactory, for those who are employed in the different

branches of this business, are enabled by their gains to purchase such

British articles as they must otherwise forego.

The produce of the year of which I am now speaking, consisted of the

following furs and peltries:

106,000 Beaver skins, 6,000 Lynx skins,

2,100 Bear skins, 600 Wolverine skins,

1,500 Fox skins, 1,650 Fisher skins,

4,000 Kitt Fox skins 100 Rackoon skins,

4,600 Otter skins, 8,800 Wolf skins,

17,000 Musquash skins, 700 Elk skins,

32,000 Marten skins, 750 Deer skins,

1,800 Mink skins, 1,200 Deer skins dressed,

500 Buffalo robes, and quantity of castorum.

Of these were diverted from the British market, being sent through the

United States to China, 13,364 skins, fine beaver, weighing 19,283

pounds; 1,250 fine otters, and 1,724 kitt foxes. They would have found

their way to the China market at any rate, but this deviation from the

British channel arose from the following circumstance:

An adventure of this kind was undertaken by a respectable house in

London, half concerned with the North-West Company, in the year 1792.

The furs were of the best kind, and suitable to the market; and the

adventurers continued this connexion for five successive years, to the

annual amount of forty thousand pounds. At the winding up of the

concern of 1792, 1793, 1794, 1795, in the year 1797 (the adventure of

1796 not being included, as the furs were not sent to China, but

disposed of in London), the North-West Company experienced a loss of

upwards of L40,000 (their half), which was principally owing to

the difficulty of getting home the produce procured in return for the

furs from China, in the East India Company's ships, together with the

duty payable, and the various restrictions of that company. Whereas,

from America there are no impediments; they get immediately to market,

and the produce of them is brought back, and perhaps sold in the course

of twelve months. From such advantages, the furs of Canada will no

doubt find their way to China by America, which would not be the case if

British subjects had the same privileges that are allowed to foreigners,

as London would then be found the best and safest market.

But to return to our principal subject. We shall now proceed to

consider the number of men employed in the concern: viz., fifty clerks,

seventy-one interpreters and clerks, one thousand one hundred and twenty

canoe-men, and thirty-five guides. Of these, five clerks, eighteen

guides, and three hundred and fifty canoe-men, were employed for the

summer season in going from Montreal to the Grande Portage, in canoes,

part of whom proceeded from thence to Rainy Lake, as will be hereafter

explained, and are called Pork-eaters, or Goers and Comers. These were

hired in Canada or Montreal, and were absent from the 1st of May till

the latter end of September. For this trip the guides had from eight

hundred to a thousand livres, and, a suitable equipment; the foreman and

steersman from four to six hundred livres; the middle-men from two

hundred and fifty to three hundred and fifty livres, with an equipment

of one blanket, one shirt, and one pair of trowsers; and were maintained

during that period at the expense of their employers. Independent of

their wages, they were allowed to traffic, and many of them earned to

the amount of their wages. About one-third of these went to winter, and

had more than double the above wages and equipment. All the winterers

were hired by the year, and sometimes for three years; and of the clerks

many were apprentices, who were generally engaged for five or seven

years, for which they had only one hundred pounds, provision and

clothing. Such of them who could not be provided for as partners, at

the expiration of this time, were allowed from one hundred pounds to

three hundred pounds per annum, with all necessaries, till provision was

made for them. Those who acted in the two-fold capacity of clerk and

interpreter, or were so denominated, had no other expectation than the

payment of wages to the amount of from one thousand to four thousand

livres per annum, with clothing and provisions. The guides, who are a

very useful set of men, acted also in the additional capacity of

interpreters, and had a stated quantity of goods, considered as

sufficient for their wants, their wages being from one to three thousand

livres. The canoe-men are of two descriptions, foremen and steersmen,

and middlemen. The two first were allowed annually one thousand two

hundred, and the latter eight hundred, livres each. The first class had

what is called an equipment, consisting of two blankets, two shirts, two

pair of trowsers, two handkerchiefs, fourteen pounds of carrot tobacco,

and some trifling articles. The latter had ten pounds of tobacco, and

all the other articles: those are called North Men, or Winterers; and to

the last class of people were attached upwards of seven hundred Indian

women and children, victualled at the expence of the company.

The first class of people are hired in Montreal five months before they

set out, and receive their equipments, and one-third of their wages in

advance; and an adequate idea of the labour they undergo, may be formed

from the following account of the country through which they pass, and

their manner of proceeding.

The necessary number of canoes being purchased, at about three hundred

livres each, the goods formed into packages, and the lakes and rivers

free of ice, which they usually are in the beginning of May, they are

then despatched from La Chine, eight miles above Montreal, with eight or

ten men in each canoe, and their baggage; and sixty-five packages of

goods, six hundred weight of biscuit, two hundred weight of pork, three

bushels of pease, for the men's provision; two oil-cloths to cover the

goods, a sail, etc., an axe, a towing-line, a kettle, and a sponge to

bail out the water, with a quantity of gum, bark, and watape, to repair

the vessel. An European on seeing one of these slender vessels thus

laden, heaped up, and sunk with her gunwale within six inches of the

water, would think his fate inevitable in such a boat, when he reflected

on the nature of her voyage; but the Canadians are so expert that few

accidents happen.

Leaving La Chine, they proceed to St. Ann's, within two miles of the

Western extremity of the island of Montreal, the lake of the two

mountains being in sight, which may be termed the commencement of the

Utawas river. At the rapid of St. Ann they are obliged to take out

part, if not the whole of their lading. It is from this spot that the

Canadians consider they take their departure, as it possesses the last

church on the island, which is dedicated to the tutelar saint of

voyages.

The lake of the two mountains is about twenty miles long, but not more

than three wide, and surrounded by cultivated fields, except the

Seignory belonging to the clergy, though nominally in possession of the

two tribes of Iroquois and Algonquins, whose village is situated on a

delightful point of land under the hills, which, by the title of

mountains, give a name to the lake. Near the extremity of the point

their church is built, which divides the village in two parts, forming a

regular angle along the water side. On the East is the station of the

Algonquins, and on the West, one of the Iroquois, consisting in all of

about five hundred warriors. Each party has its missionary, and divine

worship is performed according to the rites of the Roman Catholic

religion, in their respective languages in the same church: and so

assiduous have their pastors been, that these people have been

instructed in reading and writing in their own language, and are better

instructed than the Canadian inhabitants of the country of the lower

ranks: but notwithstanding these advantages, and though the

establishment is nearly coeval with the colonization of the country,

they do not advance towards a state of civilization, but retain their

ancient habits, language, and customs, and are becoming every day more

depraved, indigent, and insignificant. The country around them, though

very capable of cultivation, presents only a few miserable patches of

ground, sown by the women with maize and vegetables. During the winter

season, they leave their habitations, and pious pastors, to follow the

chase, according to the custom of their forefathers. Such is, indeed,

the state of all the villages near the cultivated parts of Canada. But

we shall now leave them to proceed on our voyage.

At the end of the lake the water contracts into the Utawas river, which,

after a course of fifteen miles, is interrupted by a succession of

rapids and cascades for upwards of ten miles, at the foot of which the

Canadian Seignories terminate; and all above them were waste land, till

the conclusion of the American war, when they were surveyed by order of

government, and granted to the officers and men of the eighty-fourth

regiment, when reduced; but principally to the former, and consequently

little inhabited, though very capable of cultivation.

The voyagers are frequently obliged to unload their canoes, and carry

the goods upon their backs, or rather suspended in slings from their

heads. Each man's ordinary load is two packages, though some carry

three. Here the canoe is towed by a strong line. There are some places

where the ground will not admit of their carrying the whole; they then

make two trips, that is, leave half their lading, and go and land it at

the distance required; and then return for that which was left. In this

distance are three carrying-places, the length of which depends in a

great measure upon the state of the water, whether higher or lower; from

the last of these the river is about a mile and a half wide, and has a

regular current for about sixty miles, when it ends at the first Portage

de Chaudiere, where the body of water falls twenty-five feet, over

cragged, excavated rocks, in a most wild, romantic manner. At a small

distance below, is the river Rideau on the left, falling over a

perpendicular rock, near forty feet high, in one sheet, assuming the

appearance of a curtain; and from which circumstance it derives its

name. To this extent the lands have been surveyed, as before observed,

and are very fit for culture. Many loyalists are settled upon the river

Rideau, and have, I am told, thriving plantations. Some American

families preferring the British territory, have also established

themselves along a river on the opposite side, where the soil is

excellent. Nor do I think the period is far distant, when the lands

will become settled from this vicinity to Montreal.

Over this portage, which is six hundred and forty-three paces long, the

canoe and all the lading is carried. The rock is so steep and difficult

of access, that it requires twelve men to take the canoe out of the

water: it is then carried by six men, two at each end on the same side,

and two under the opposite gunwale in the middle. From hence to the

next is but a short distance, in which they make two trips to the second

Portage de Chaudiere, which is seven hundred paces, to carry the loading

alone. From hence to the next and last Chaudiere, or Portage des

Chenes, is about six miles, with a very strong current, where the goods

are carried seven hundred and forty paces; the canoe being towed up by

the line, when the water is not very high. We now enter Lac des

Chaudieres, which is computed to be thirty miles in length. Though it

is called a lake, there is a strong draught downwards, and its breadth

is from two to four miles. At the end of this is the Portage des Chats,

over which the canoe and lading are carried two hundred and seventy-four

paces; and very difficult it is for the former. The river is here

barred by a ridge of black rock, rising in pinnacles and covered with

wood, which, from the small quantity of soil that nourishes it, is low

and stinted. The river finds its way over and through these rocks, in

numerous channels, falling fifteen feet and upwards. From hence two

trips are made through a serpentine channel, formed by the rocks, for

several miles, when the current slackens, and is accordingly called the

Lac des Chats. To the channels of the grand Calumet, which are computed

to be at the distance of eighteen miles, the current recovers its

strength, and proceeds to the Portage Dufort, which is two hundred and

forty-five paces long; over which the canoe and baggage are transported.

From hence the current becomes more rapid, and requires two trips to the

Decharge des Sables,[3] where the goods are carried one hundred and

thirty-five paces, and the canoe towed. Then follows the Mountain

Portage, where the canoe and lading are also carried three hundred and

eighty-five paces; then to the Decharge of the Derige, where the goods

are carried two hundred and fifty paces; and thence to the grand

Calumet. This is the longest carrying-place in this river, and is about

two thousand and thirty-five paces. It is a high hill or mountain.

From the upper part of this Portage the current is steady, and is only a

branch of the Utawas river, which joins the main channel, that keeps a

more Southern course, at the distance of twelve computed leagues. Six

leagues further it forms Lake Coulonge, which is about four leagues in

length; from thence it proceeds through the channels of the Allumettes

to the decharge, where part of the lading is taken out, and carried

three hundred and forty-two paces. Then succeeds the Portage des

Allumettes, which is but twenty-five paces, over a rock difficult of

access, and at a very short distance from Decharge. From Portage de

Chenes to this spot, is a fine deer-hunting country, and the land in

many places very fit for cultivation. From hence the river spreads

wide, and is full of islands, with some current for seven leagues, to

the beginning of _Riviere Creuse_, or Deep River, which runs in the form

of a canal, about a mile and a half wide, for about thirty-six miles;

bounded upon the North by very high rocks, with low land on the South,

and sandy; it is intercepted again by falls and cataracts, so that the

Portages of the two Joachins almost join. The first is nine hundred and

twenty-six paces, the next seven hundred and twenty, and both very bad

roads. From hence is a steady current of nine miles to the river du

Moine, where there has generally been a trading house; the stream then

becomes strong for four leagues, when a rapid succeeds, which requires

two trips. A little way onward is the Decharge, and close to it, the

Portage of the Roche Capitaine, seven hundred and ninety-seven paces in

length. From hence two trips are made through a narrow channel of the

Roche Capitaine, made by an island four miles in length. A strong

current now succeeds, for about six leagues to the Portage of the two

rivers, which is about eight hundred and twenty paces; from thence it is

three leagues to the Decharge of the Trou, which is three hundred paces.

Near adjoining is the rapid of Levellier; from whence, including the

rapids of Matawoen, where there is no carrying-place, it is about

thirty-six miles to the forks of the same name; in latitude

46. 45. North, and longitude 78. 45. West, and is at the computed

distance of four hundred miles from Montreal. At this place the Petite

Riviere falls into the Utawas. The latter river comes from a

North-Westerly direction, forming several lakes in its course. The

principal of them is Lake Temescamang, where there has always been a

trading post, which may be said to continue, by a succession of rivers

and lakes, upwards of fifty leagues from the Forks, passing near the

waters of the Lake Abbitiby, in latitude 48-1/2, which is received by

the Moose River, that empties itself into James Bay.

The Petite Riviere takes a South-West direction, is full of rapids and

cataracts to its source, and is not more than fifteen leagues in length,

in the course of which are the following interruptions--The Portage of

Plein Champ, three hundred and nineteen paces; the Decharge of the Rose,

one hundred and forty-five paces; the Decharge of Campion, one hundred

and eighty-four paces; the Portage of the Grosse Roche, one hundred and

fifty paces; the Portage of Paresseux, four hundred and two paces; the

Portage of Prairie, two hundred and eighty-seven paces; the Portage of

La Cave, one hundred paces; Portage of Talon, two hundred and

seventy-five paces; which, for its length, is the worst on the

communication; Portage Pin de Musique, four hundred and fifty-six paces;

next to this, is mauvais de Musique, where many men have been crushed to

death by the canoes, and others have received irrecoverable injuries.

The last in this river is the Turtle Portage, eighty-three paces, on

entering the lake of that name, where, indeed, the river may be said to

take its source. At the first vase from whence to the great river, the

country has the appearance of having been over-run by fire, and

consists, in general, of huge rocky hills. The distance of this portage

which is the height of land, between the waters of the St. Laurence and

the Utawas, is one thousand five hundred and thirteen paces to a small

canal in a plain, that is just sufficient to carry the loaded canoe

about one mile to the next vase, which is seven hundred and twenty-five

paces. It would be twice this distance, but the narrow creek is dammed

in the beaver fashion, to float the canoes to this barrier, through

which they pass, when the river is just sufficient to bear them through

a swamp of two miles to the last vase, of one thousand and twenty-four

paces in length. Though the river is increased in this part, some care

is necessary to avoid rocks and stumps of trees. In about six miles is

the lake Nepisingui, which is computed to be twelve leagues long, though

the route of the canoes is something more: it is about fifteen miles

wide in the widest part, and bound with rocks. Its inhabitants consist

of the remainder of a numerous converted tribe, called Nepisinguis of

the Algonquin nation. Out of it flows the Riviere des Francois, over

rocks of a considerable height. In a bay to the East of this, the road

leads over the Portage of the Chaudiere des Francois, five hundred and

forty-four paces, to still water. It must have acquired the name of

Kettle, from a great number of holes in the solid rock of a cylindrical

form, and not unlike that culinary utensil. They are observable in many

parts along strong bodies of water, and where, at certain seasons, and

distinct periods, it is well known the water inundates; at the bottom of

them are generally found a number of small stones and pebbles. This

circumstance justifies the conclusion, that at some former period these

rocks formed the bed of a branch of the discharge of this lake, although

some of them are upwards of ten feet above the present level of the

water at its greatest height. They are, indeed, to be seen along every

great river throughout this wide extended country. The French river is

very irregular, both as to its breadth and form, and is so interspersed

with islands, that in the whole course of it the banks are seldom

visible. Of its various channels, that which is generally followed by

the canoes is obstructed by the following Portages, viz., des Pins,

fifty-two paces; Feausille, thirty-six paces; Parisienne, one hundred

paces; Recolet, forty-five paces; and the Petite Feausille, twenty-five

paces. In several parts there are guts or channels, where the water

flows with great velocity, which are not more than twice the breadth of

a canoe. The distance to Lake Huron is estimated at twenty-five

leagues, which this river enters in the latitude 45. 53. North, that is,

at the point of land three or four miles within the lake. There is

hardly a foot of soil to be seen from one end of the French river to the

other, its banks consisting of hills of entire rock. The coast of the

lake is the same, but lower, backed at some distance by high lands. The

course runs through numerous islands to the North of West to the river

Tessalon, computed to be about fifty leagues from the French river, and

which I found to be in latitude 46. 12. 21. North; and from thence

crossing, from island to island, the arm of the lake that receives the

water of Lake Superior (which continues the same course), the route

changes to the South of West ten leagues to the Detour, passing the end

of the island of St. Joseph, within six miles of the former place. On

that island there has been a military establishment since the upper

posts were given up to the Americans in the year 1794; and is the

Westernmost military position which we have in this country. It is a

place of no trade, and the greater part, if not the whole of the Indians

come here for no other purpose but to receive the presents which our

government annually allows them. They are from the American territory

(except about thirty families, who are the inhabitants of the lake from

the French river, and of the Algonquin nation) and trade in their

peltries, as they used formerly to do at Michilimakinac, but principally

with British subjects. The Americans pay them very little attention,

and tell them that they keep possession of their country by right of

conquest: that, as their brothers, they will be friends with them while

they deserve it; and that their traders will bring them every kind of

goods they require, which they may procure by their industry.

Our commanders treat them in a very different manner, and, under the

character of the representative of their father (which parental title

the natives give to his present Majesty, the common father of all his

people) present them with such things as the actual state of their

stores will allow.

How far this conduct, if continued, may, at a future exigency, keep

these people in our interest, if they are even worthy of it, is not an

object of my present consideration: at the same time, I cannot avoid

expressing my perfect conviction, that it would not be of the least

advantage to our present or future commerce in that country, or to the

people themselves; as it only tends to keep many of them in a state of

idleness about our military establishments. The ammunition which they

receive is employed to kill game, in order to procure rum in return,

though their families may be in a starving condition: hence it is, that,

in consequence of slothful and dissolute lives, their numbers are in a

very perceptible state of diminution.

From the Detour to the island of Michilimakinac, at the conference of

the Lakes Huron and Michigan, in latitude 45. 54. North is about forty

miles. To keep the direct course to Lake Superior, the North shore from

the river Tessalon should be followed; crossing to the North-West end of

St. Joseph, and passing between it and the adjacent islands, which makes

a distance of fifty miles to the fall of St. Mary, at the foot of which,

upon the South shore, there is a village, formerly a place of great

resort for the inhabitants of Lake Superior, and consequently of

considerable trade: it is now, however, dwindled to nothing, and reduced

to about thirty families, of the Algonquin, nation, who are one half of

the year starving, and the other half intoxicated, and ten or twelve

Canadians, who have been in the Indian country from an early period of

life, and intermarried with the natives, who have brought them families.

Their inducements to settle there, was the great quantity of white fish

that are to be taken in and about the falls, with very little trouble,

particularly in the autumn, when that fish leave the lakes, and comes to

the running and shallow waters to spawn. These, when salt can be

procured, are pickled just as the frost sets in, and prove very good

food with potatoes, which they have of late cultivated with success.

The natives live chiefly on this fish, which they hang up by the tails,

and preserve throughout the winter, or at least as long as they last;

for whatever quantity they may have taken, it is never known that their

economy is such as to make them last through the winter, which renders

their situation very distressing; for if they had activity sufficient to

pursue the labours of the chase, the woods are become so barren of game

as to afford them no great prospect of relief. In the spring of the

year, they and the other inhabitants make a quantity of sugar from the

maple tree, which they exchange with the traders for necessary articles,

or carry it to Michilimakinac, where they expect a better price. One of

these traders was agent for the North-West Company, receiving, storing,

and forwarding such articles as come by the way of the lakes upon their

vessels: for it is to be observed, that a quantity of their goods are

sent by that route from Montreal in boats to Kingston, at the entrance

of Lake Ontario, and from thence in vessels to Niagara, then over land

ten miles to a water communication by boats, to Lake Erie, where they

are again received into vessels, and carried over that lake up the river

Detroit, through the lake and river Sinclair to Lake Huron, and from

thence to the Falls of St. Mary's, when they are again landed and

carried for a mile above the falls, and shipped over Lake Superior to

the Grande Portage. This is found to be a less expensive method than by

canoes, but attended with more risk, and requiring more time, than one

short season of this country will admit; for the goods are always sent

from Montreal the preceding fall; and besides, the company get their

provisions from Detroit, as flour and Indian corn; as also considerable

supplies from Michilimakinac of maple sugar, tallow, gum, etc., etc.

For the purpose of conveying all these things, they have two vessels

upon the Lakes Erie and Huron, and one on Lake Superior, of from fifty

to seventy tons burden. This being, therefore, the depot for

transports, the Montreal canoes, on their arrival, were forwarded over

Lake Superior, with only five men in each; the others were sent to

Michilimakinac for additional canoes, which were required to prosecute

the trade, and then taking a lading there, or at St. Mary's, and follow

the others. At length they all arrive at the Grande Portage which is

one hundred and sixty leagues from St. Mary's, coastways, and situated

on a pleasant bay on the North side of the lake, in latitude 48. North,

and longitude 90. West from Greenwich, where the compass has not above

five degrees East variation.

At the entrance of the bay is an island which screens the harbour from

every wind except the South. The shallowness of the water, however,

renders it necessary for the vessel to anchor near a mile from the

shore, where there is not more than fourteen feet water. This lake

justifies the name that has been given to it; the Falls of St. Mary,

which is its Northern extremity, being in latitude 46. 31. North, and in

longitude 84. West, where there is no variation of the compass

whatever, while its Southern extremity, at the river St. Louis, is in

latitude 46. 45. North, and longitude 92. 10. West: its greatest

breadth is one hundred and twenty miles, and its circumference,

including its various bays, is not less than one thousand two hundred

miles. Along its North shore is the safest navigation, as it is a

continued mountainous embankment of rock, from three hundred to one

thousand five hundred feet in height. There are numerous coves and

sandy bays to land, which are frequently sheltered by islands from the

swell of the lake. This is particularly the case at the distance of one

hundred miles to the Eastward of the Grande Portage, and is called the

Pays Plat.

This seems to have been caused by some convulsion of nature, for many of

the islands display a composition of lava, intermixed with round stones

of the size of a pigeon's egg. The surrounding rock is generally hard,

and of a dark blue-grey, though it frequently has the appearance of iron

and copper. The South side of the lake, from Point Shagoimigo East, is

almost a continual straight line of sandy beach, interspersed with rocky

precipices of lime-stones, sometimes rising to a hundred feet in height,

without a bay. The embankments from that point Westward are, in

general, of strong clay, mixed with stones, which renders the navigation

irksome and dangerous. On the same side, at the river Tonnagan, is

found a quantity of virgin copper. The Americans, soon after they got

possession of that country, sent an engineer thither; and I should not

be surprised to hear of their employing people to work the mine.

Indeed, it might be well worthy the attention of the British subjects to

work the mines on the North coast, though they are not supposed to be so

rich as those on the South.

Lake Superior is the largest and most magnificent body of fresh water in

the world: it is clear and pellucid, of great depth, and abounding in a

great variety of fish, which are the most excellent of their kind.

There are trouts of three kinds, weighing from five to fifty pounds,

sturgeon, pickerel, pike, red and white carp, black bass, herrings,

etc., etc., and the last, and best of all, the Ticamang, or white fish,

which weighs from four to sixteen pounds, and is of a superior quality

in these waters.

This lake may be denominated the grand reservoir of the River

St. Laurence, as no considerable rivers discharge themselves into it.

The principal ones are, the St. Louis, the Nipigon, the Pic, and the

Michipicoten. Indeed, the extent of country from which any of them

flow, or take their course, in any direction, cannot admit of it, in

consequence of the ridge of land that separates them from the rivers

that empty themselves into Hudson's-Bay, the gulf of Mexico, and the

waters that fall in Lake Michigan, which afterward become a part of the

St. Laurence.

This vast collection of water is often covered with fog, particularly

when the wind is from the East, which, driving against the high barren

rocks on the North and West shore, dissolves in torrents of rain. It is

very generally said, that the storms on this lake are denoted by a swell

on the preceding day; but this circumstance did not appear from my

observation to be a regular phenomenon, as the swells more regularly

subsided without any subsequent wind.

Along the surrounding rocks of this immense lake, evident marks appear

of the decrease of its water, by the lines observable along them. The

space, however, between the highest and the lowest, is not so great as

in the smaller lakes, as it does not amount to more than six feet, the

former being very faint.

The inhabitants that are found along the coast of this water, are all of

the Algonquin nation, the whole of which do not exceed 150 families.[4]

These people live chiefly on fish; indeed, from what has been said of

the country, it cannot be expected to abound in animals, as it is

totally destitute of that shelter, which is so necessary to them. The

rocks appear to have been over-run by fire, and the stinted timber which

once grew there, is frequently seen lying along the surface of them: but

it is not easy to be reconciled, that anything should grow where there

is so little appearance of soil. Between the fallen trees there are

briars, with hurtleberry and gooseberry bushes, raspberries, etc., which

invite the bears in greater or lesser numbers, as they are a favourite

food of that animal: beyond these rocky banks are found a few moose and

fallow deer. The waters alone are abundantly inhabited.

A very curious phenomenon was observed some years ago at the Grande

Portage, for which no obvious cause could be assigned. The water

withdrew with great precipitation, leaving the ground dry that had never

before been visible, the fall being equal to four perpendicular feet,

and rushing back with great velocity above the common mark. It

continued thus falling and rising for several hours, gradually

decreasing till it stopped at its usual height. There is frequently an

irregular influx and deflux, which does not exceed ten inches, and is

attributed to the wind.

The bottom of the bay, which forms an amphitheatre, is cleared of wood

and inclosed; and on the left corner of it, beneath an hill, three or

four hundred feet in height, and crowned by others of a still greater

altitude, is the fort, picketed in with cedar pallisadoes, and inclosing

houses built with wood and covered with shingles. They are calculated

for every convenience of trade, as well as to accommodate the

proprietors and clerks during their short residence there. The north

men live under tents: but the more frugal pork-eater lodges beneath his

canoe. The soil immediately bordering on the lake has not proved very

propitious, as nothing but potatoes have been found to answer the

trouble of cultivation. This circumstance is probably owing to the cold

damp fogs of the lake, and the moisture of the ground from the springs

that issue from beneath the hills. There are meadows in the vicinity

that yield abundance of hay for the cattle; but, as to agriculture, it

has not hitherto been an object of serious consideration.

I shall now leave these geographical notices, to give some further

account of the people from Montreal.--When they are arrived at the

Grande Portage, which is near nine miles over, each of them has to carry

eight packages of such goods and provisions as are necessary for the

interior country. This is a labour which cattle cannot conveniently

perform in summer, as both horses and oxen were tried by the company

without success. They are only useful for light, bulky articles; or for

transporting upon sledges, during the winter, whatever goods may remain

there, especially provision, of which it is usual to have a year's stock

on hand.

Having finished this toilsome part of their duty, if more goods are

necessary to be transported, they are allowed a Spanish dollar for each

package: and so inured are they to this kind of labour, that I have

known some of them set off with two packages of ninety pounds each, and

return with two others of the same weight, in the course of six hours,

being a distance of eighteen miles over hills and mountains. This

necessary part of the business being over, if the season be early they

have some respite, but this depends upon the time the North men begin to

arrive from their winter quarters, which they commonly do early in July.

At this period, it is necessary to select from the pork-eaters, a number

of men, among whom are the recruits, or winterers, sufficient to man the

North canoes necessary to carry, to the river of the rainy lake, the

goods and provision requisite for the Athabasca country; as the people

of that country (owing to the shortness of the season and length of the

road, can come no further), are equipped there, and exchange ladings

with the people of whom we are speaking, and both return from whence

they came. This voyage is performed in the course of a month, and they

are allowed proportionable wages for their services.

The North men being arrived at the Grande Portage, are regaled with

bread, pork, butter, liquor, and tobacco, and such as have not entered

into agreements during the winter, which is customary, are contracted

with, to return and perform the voyage for one, two, or three years;

their accounts are also settled, and such as choose to send any of their

earnings to Canada, receive drafts to transmit to their relations or

friends; and as soon as they can be got ready, which requires no more

than a fortnight, they are again despatched to their respective

departments. It is, indeed, very creditable to them as servants, that

though they are sometimes assembled to the number of twelve hundred men,

indulging themselves in the free use of liquor, and quarrelling with

each other, they always show the greatest respect to their employers,

who are comparatively but few in number, and beyond the aid of any legal

power to enforce due obedience. In short, a degree of subordination can

only be maintained by the good opinion these men entertain of their

employers, which has been uniformly the case, since the trade has been

formed and conducted on a regular system.

The people being despatched to their respective winter-quarters, the

agents from Montreal, assisted by their clerks, prepare to return there,

by getting the furs across the portage, and re-making them into packages

of one hundred pounds weight each, to send them to Montreal; where they

commonly arrive in the month of September.

The mode of living at the Grande Portage is as follows: The proprietors,

clerks, guides, and interpreters, mess together, to the number of

sometimes an hundred, at several tables, in one large hall, the

provision consisting of bread, salt pork, beef, hams, fish, and venison,

butter, peas, Indian corn, potatoes, tea, spirits, wine, etc., and

plenty of milk, for which purpose several milch cows are constantly

kept. The mechanics have rations of such provision, but the canoe-men,

both from the North and Montreal, have no other allowance here, or in

the voyage, than Indian corn and melted fat. The corn for this purpose

is prepared before it leaves Detroit, by boiling it in a strong alkali,

which takes off the outer husk: it is then well washed, and carefully

dried upon stages, when it is fit for use. One quart of this is boiled

for two hours, over a moderate fire, in a gallon of water; to which,

when it has boiled a small time, are added two ounces of melted suet;

this causes the corn to split, and in the time mentioned makes a pretty

thick pudding. If to this is added a little salt, (but not before it is

boiled, as it would interrupt the operation) it makes a wholesome,

palatable food, and easy of digestion. This quantity is fully

sufficient for a man's subsistence during twenty-four hours; though it

is not sufficiently heartening to sustain the strength necessary for a

state of active labour. The Americans call this dish hominy.[5]

The trade from the Grande Portage is, in some particulars, carried on in

a different manner with that from Montreal. The canoes used in the

latter transport are now too large for the former, and some of about

half the size are procured from the natives, and are navigated by four,

five, or six men, according to the distance which they have to go. They

carry a lading of about thirty-five packages, on an average; of these

twenty-three are for the purpose of trade, and the rest are employed for

provisions, stores, and baggage. In each of these canoes are a foreman

and steersman; the one to be always on the look-out, and direct the

passage of the vessel, and the other to attend the helm. They also

carry her, whenever that office is necessary. The foreman has the

command, and the middle-men obey both; the latter earn only two-thirds

of the wages which are paid the two former. Independent of these, a

conductor or pilot is appointed to every four or six of these canoes,

whom they are all obliged to obey; and is, or at least is intended to

be, a person of superior experience, for which he is proportionably

paid.

In these canoes, thus loaded, they embark at the North side of the

portage, on the river Au Tourt, which is very inconsiderable; and after

about two miles of a Westerly course, is obstructed by the Partridge

Portage, six hundred paces long. In the spring this makes a

considerable fall, when the water is high, over a perpendicular rock of

one hundred and twenty feet. From, thence the river continues to be

shallow, and requires great care to prevent the bottom of the canoe from

being injured by sharp rocks, for a distance of three miles and an half

to the Priarie, or Meadow, when half the lading is taken out, and

carried by part of the crew, while two of them are conducting the canoe

among the rocks, with the remainder, to the Carreboeuf Portage, three

miles and a half more, when they unload, and come back two miles, and

embark what was left for the other hands to carry, which they also land

with the former; all of which is carried six hundred and eighty paces,

and the canoe led up against the rapid. From hence the water is better

calculated to carry canoes, and leads by a winding course to the North

of West three miles to the Outard Portage, over which the canoe, and

every thing in her, is carried for two thousand four hundred paces. At

the further end is a very high hill to descend, over which hangs a rock

upwards of seven hundred feet high. Then succeeds the Outard Lake,

about six miles long, lying in a North-West course, and about two miles

wide in the broadest place.

After passing a very small rivulet, they come to the Elk Portage, over

which the canoe and lading are again carried one thousand one hundred

and twenty paces; when they enter the lake of the same name, which is an

handsome piece of water, running North-West about four miles, and not

more than one mile and an half wide.[6] They then land at the Portage de

Cerise, over which, and in the face of a considerable hill, the canoe

and cargo are again transported for one thousand and fifty paces. This

is only separated from the second Portage de Cerise, by a mud-pond

(where there is plenty of water lilies), of a quarter of a mile in

length; and this is again separated by a similar pond, from the last

Portage de Cerise, which is four hundred and ten paces. Here the same

operation is to be performed for three hundred and eighty paces. They

next enter on the Mountain Lake, running North-West by West six miles

long, and about two miles in its greatest breadth. In the centre of

this lake, and to the right is the Old Road, by which I never passed,

but an adequate notion may be formed of it from the road I am going to

describe, and which is universally preferred. This is first, the small

new portage over which everything is carried for six hundred and

twenty-six paces, over hills and gullies; the whole is then embarked on

a narrow line of water, that meanders South-West about two miles and an

half. It is necessary to unload here, for the length of the canoe, and

then proceed West half a mile, to the new Grande Portage, which is three

thousand one hundred paces in length, and over very rough ground, which

requires the utmost exertions of the men, and frequently lames them:

from hence they approach the Rose Lake, the portage of that name being

opposite to the junction of the road from the Mountain Lake. They then

embark on the Rose Lake, about one mile from the East end of it, and

steer West by South, in an oblique course, across it two miles, then

North-West passing the Petite Peche to the Marten Portage three miles.

In this part of the lake the bottom is mud and slime, with about three

or four feet of water over it; and here I frequently struck a canoe pole

of twelve feet long, without meeting any other obstruction than if the

whole were water: it has, however, a peculiar suction or attractive

power, so that it is difficult to paddle a canoe over it. There is a

small space along the South shore, where the water is deep, and this

effect is not felt. In proportion to the distance from this part, the

suction becomes more powerful: I have, indeed, been told that loaded

canoes have been in danger of being swallowed up, and have only owed

their preservation to other canoes, which were lighter. I have, myself,

found it very difficult to get away from this attractive power, with six

men, and great exertion, though we did not appear to be in any danger of

sinking.

Over against this is a very high, rocky ridge, on the South side, called

Marten Portage, which is but twenty paces long, and separated from the

Perche Portage, which is four hundred and eighty paces, by a mud pond,

covered with white lilies. From hence the course is on the lake of the

same name, West-South-West three miles to the height of land, where the

waters of the Dove or Pigeon River terminate, and which is one of the

sources of the great St. Laurence in this direction. Having carried the

canoe and lading over it, six hundred and seventy-nine paces, they

embark on the lake of Hauteur de Terre, which is in the shape of an

horseshoe.[7] It is entered near the curve, and left at the extremity of

the Western limb, through a very shallow channel, where the canoe passes

half loaded for thirty paces with the current, which conducts these

waters till they discharge themselves, through the succeeding lakes and

rivers, and disembogues itself, by the river Nelson, into Hudson's Bay.

The first of these is Lac de pierres a fusil, running West-South-West

seven miles long, and two wide, and making an angle at North-West one

mile more, becomes a river for half a mile, tumbling over a rock, and

forming a fall and portage, called the Escalier, of fifty-five paces;

but from hence it is neither lake or river, but possesses the character

of both, and runs between large rocks, which cause a current or rapid

for about two miles and an half, West-North-West, to the portage of the

Cheval du Bois. Here the canoe and contents are carried three hundred

and eighty paces, between rocks; and within a quarter of a mile is the

Portage des Gros Pins, which is six hundred and forty paces over a high

ridge. The opposite side of it is washed by a small lake three mile

round; and the course is through the East end or side of it, three

quarters of a mile North-East, where there is a rapid. An irregular

meandering channel, between rocky banks, then succeeds, for seven miles

and an half, to the Maraboeuf Lake, which extends North four miles, and

is three-quarters of a mile wide, terminating by a rapid and decharge of

one hundred and eighty paces, the rock of Saginaga being in sight, which

causes a fall of about seven feet, and a portage of fifty-five paces.

Lake Saginaga takes its name from its numerous islands. Its greatest

length from East to West is about fourteen miles, with very irregular

inlets, is nowhere more than three miles wide, and terminates at the

small portage of Le Roche, of forty-three paces. From thence is a

rocky, stony passage of one mile, to Priarie Portage, which is very

improperly named, as there is no ground about it that answers to that

description, except a small spot at the embarking place at the West end:

to the East is an entire bog; and it is with great difficulty that the

lading can be landed upon stages, formed by driving piles into the mud,

and spreading branches of trees over them. The portage rises on a stony

ridge, over which the canoe and cargo must be carried for six hundred

and eleven paces. This is succeeded by an embarkation on a small bay,

where the bottom is the same as has been described in the West end of

Rose Lake, and it is with great difficulty that a laden canoe is worked

over it, but it does not comprehend more than a distance of two hundred

yards. From hence the progress continues through irregular channels,

bounded by rocks, in a Westerly course for about five miles, to the

little Portage des Couteaux, of one hundred and sixty-five paces, and

the Lac des Couteaux, running about South-West by West twelve miles, and

from a quarter to two miles wide. A deep bay runs East three miles from

the West end, where it is discharged by a rapid river, and after running

two miles West, it again becomes still water. In this river are two

carrying-places, the one fifteen, and the other one hundred and ninety

paces. From this to the Portage des Carpes is one mile North-West,

leaving a narrow lake on the East that runs parallel with the Lac des

Couteaux, half its length, where there is a carrying-place, which is

used when the water in the river last mentioned is too low. The Portage

des Carpes is three hundred and ninety paces, from whence the water

spreads irregularly between rocks, five miles North-West and South-East

to the Portage of Lac Bois Blanc, which is one hundred and eighty paces.

Then follows the lake of that name, but I think improperly so called, as

the natives name it the Lac Passeau Minac Sagaigan, or lake of Dry

Berries.

Before the small-pox ravaged this country, and completed, what the

Nodowasis, in their warfare, had gone far to accomplish, the destruction

of its inhabitants, the population was very numerous: this was also a

favourite part, where they made their canoes, etc., the lake abounding

in fish, the country round it being plentifully supplied with various

kinds of game, and the rocky ridges, that form the boundaries of the

water, covered with a variety of berries.

When the French were in possession of this country, they had several

trading establishments on the islands and banks of this lake. Since

that period, the few people remaining, who were of the Algonquin nation,

could hardly find subsistence; game having become so scarce, that they

depended principally for food upon fish and wild rice, which grows

spontaneously in these parts.

This lake is irregular in its form, and its utmost extent from East to

West is fifteen miles; a point of land, called Point au Pin, jutting

into it, divides it in two parts: it then makes a second angle at the

West end, to the lesser Portage de Bois Blanc, two hundred paces in

length. This channel is not wide, and is intercepted by several rapids

in the course of a mile: it runs West-North West to the Portage des

Pins, over which the canoe and lading is again carried four hundred

paces. From hence the channel is also intercepted by very dangerous

rapids, for two miles Westerly, to the point of Pointe du Bois, which is

two hundred and eighty paces. Then succeeds the portage of La Croche,

one mile more, where the carrying-place is eighty paces, and is followed

by an embarkation on that lake, which takes its name from its figure.

It extends eighteen miles, in a meandering form, and in a westerly

direction; it is in general very narrow, and at about two-thirds of its

length becomes very contracted, with a strong current.

Within three miles of the last Portage is a remarkable rock, with a

smooth face, but split and cracked in different parts, which hang over

the water. Into one of its horizontal chasms a great number of arrows

have been shot, which is said to have been done by a war party of the

Nadowasis or Sieux, who had done much mischief in this country, and left

these weapons as a warning to the Chebois or natives, that,

notwithstanding its lakes, rivers, and rocks, it was not inaccessible to

their enemies.

Lake Croche is terminated by the Portage de Rideau, four hundred paces

long, and derives its name from the appearance of the water, falling

over a rock of upwards of thirty feet. Several rapids succeed, with

intervals of still water, for about three miles to the Flacon portage,

which is very difficult, is four hundred paces long, and leads to the

Lake of La Croix, so named from its shape. It runs about North-West

eighteen miles to the Beaver Dam, and then sinks into a deep bay nearly

East. The course to the Portage is West by North for sixteen miles more

from the Beaver Dam, and into the East bay is a road which was

frequented by the French, and followed through lakes and rivers until

they came to Lake Superior by the river Caministiquia, thirty miles East

of the Grande Portage.

Portage la Croix is six hundred paces long: to the next portage is a

quarter of a mile, and its length is forty paces; the river winding four

miles to Vermillion Lake, which runs six or seven miles

North-North-West, and by a narrow strait communicates with Lake

Namaycan, which takes its name from a particular place at the foot of a

fall, where the natives spear sturgeon: Its course is about

North-North-West and South-South-East, with a bay running East, that

gives it the form of a triangle: its length is about sixteen miles to

the Nouvelle Portage.

The discharge of the lake is from a bay on the left, and the portage one

hundred eighty paces, to which succeeds a very small river, from whence

there is but a short distance to the next Nouvelle Portage, three

hundred and twenty paces long. It is then necessary to embark on a

swamp, or overflowed country, where wild rice grows in great abundance.

There is a channel or small river in the centre of this swamp, which is

kept with difficulty, and runs South and North one mile and a half.

With deepening water, the course continues North-North-West one mile to

the Chaudiere Portage, which is caused by the discharge of the waters

running on the left of the road from Lake Namaycan, which used to be the

common route, but that which I have described is the safest as well as

shortest. From hence there is some current though the water is wide

spread, and its course about North by West three miles and an half to

the Lac de la Pluie, which lies nearly East and West; from thence about

fifteen miles is a narrow strait that divides the lake into two unequal

parts, from whence to its discharge is a distance of twenty-four miles.

There is a deep bay running North-West on the right, that is not

included, and is remarkable for furnishing the natives with a kind of

soft, red stone, of which they make their pipes; it also affords an

excellent fishery both in the summer and winter; and from it is an easy,

safe, and short road to the Lac du Bois, (which I shall mention

presently) for the Indians to pass in their small canoes, through a

small lake and on a small river, whose banks furnish abundance of wild

rice. The discharge of this lake is called Lac de la Pluie River, at

whose entrance there is a rapid, below which is a fine bay, where there

had been an extensive picketed fort and building when possessed by the

French: the site of it is at present a beautiful meadow, surrounded with

groves of oaks. From hence there is a strong current for two miles,

where the water falls over a rock twenty feet, and, from the consequent

turbulence of the water, the carrying-place, which is three hundred and

twenty paces long, derives the name of Chaudiere. Two miles onward is

the present trading establishment, situated on an high bank on the North

side of the river, in 48. 37. North latitude.

Here the people from Montreal come to meet those who arrive from the

Athabasca country, as has been already described, and exchange lading

with them. This is also the residence of the first chief, or Sachem, of

all the Algonquin tribes, inhabiting the different parts of this

country. He is by distinction called Nectam, which implies personal

preeminence. Here also the elders meet in council to treat of peace or

war.

This is one of the finest rivers in the North-West, and runs a course

West and East one hundred and twenty computed miles; but in taking its

course and distance minutely I make it only eighty. Its banks are

covered with a rich soil, particularly to the North, which, in many

parts, are clothed with fine open groves of oak, with the maple, the

pine, and the cedar. The Southern bank is not so elevated, and displays

the maple, the white birch, and the cedar, with the spruce, the alder,

and various underwood. Its waters abound in fish, particularly the

sturgeon, which the natives both spear and take with drag-nets. But

notwithstanding the promise of this soil, the Indians do not attend to

its cultivation, though they are not ignorant of the common process, and

are fond of the Indian corn, when they can get it from us.

Though the soil at the fort is a stiff clay, there is a garden, which,

unassisted as it is by manure, or any particular attention, is tolerably

productive.

We now proceed to mention the Lac du Bois, into which this river

discharges itself in latitude 49. North, and was formerly famous for the

richness of its banks and waters, which abounded with whatever was

necessary to a savage life. The French had several settlements in and

about it; but it might be almost concluded, that some fatal circumstance

had destroyed the game, as war and the small-pox had diminished the

inhabitants, it having been very unproductive in animals since the

British subjects have been engaged in travelling through it; though it

now appears to be recovering its pristine state. The few Indians who

inhabit it might live very comfortably, if they were not so immoderately

fond of spirituous liquors.

This lake is also rendered remarkable, in consequence of the Americans

having named it as the spot, from which a line of boundary, between them

and British America, was to run West, until it struck the Mississippi:

which, however, can never happen, as the North-West part of the Lac du

Bois is in latitude 49. 37. North, and longitude 94.31. West, and the

Northernmost branch of the source of the Mississippi is in latitude

47. 38. North, and longitude 95. 6. West, ascertained by Mr. Thomson,

astronomer to the North-West Company, who was sent expressly for that

purpose in the spring of 1798. He, in the same year, determined the

Northern bend of the Mississoury to be in latitude 47. 32. North, and

longitude 101. 25. West; and, according to the Indian accounts, it runs

to the south of West, so that if the Mississoury were even to be

considered as the Mississippi, no Western line could strike it.

It does not appear to me to be clearly determined what course the Line

is to take, or from what part of Lake Superior it strikes through the

country to the Lac du Bois: were it to follow the principal waters to

their source, it ought to keep through Lake Superior to the River

St. Louis, and follow that river to its source; close to which is the

source of the waters falling into the river of Lac la Pluie, which is a

common route of the Indians to the Lac du Bois; the St. Louis passes

within a short distance of a branch of the Mississippi, where it becomes

navigable for canoes. This will appear more evident from consulting the

map: and if the navigation of the Mississippi is considered as of any

consequence by this country, from that part of the globe, such is the

nearest way to get at it.

But to return to our narrative. The Lac du Bois is, as far as I could

learn, nearly round, and the canoe course through the centre of it among

a cluster of islands, some of which are so extensive that they may be

taken for the mainland. The reduced course would be nearly South and

North. But following the navigating course, I make the distance

seventy-five miles, though in a direct line it would fall very short of

that length. At about two-thirds of it there is a small carrying-place,

when the water is low. The carrying-place out of the Lake is on the

island and named Portage du Rat, in latitude 49. 37. North, and

longitude 94. 15. West; it is about fifty paces long. The lake

discharges itself at both ends of this island, and forms the River

Winipic, which is a large body of water, interspersed with numerous

islands, causing various channels and interruptions of portages and

rapids. In some parts it has the appearance of lakes, with steady

currents; I estimate its winding course to the Dalles eight miles; to

the Grand Decharge twenty-five miles and an half, which is a long

carrying-place for the goods; from thence to the little Decharge one

mile and an half; to the Terre Jaune Portage two miles and an half; then

to its galet seventy yards; two miles and three quarters to the Terre

Blanche, near which is a fall of from four to five feet; three miles and

an half to Portage de L'Isle, where there is a trading-post, and, about

eleven miles, on the north shore, a trading establishment, which is the

road in boats, to Albany River, and from thence to Hudson's-Bay. There

is also a communication with Lake Superior, through what is called the

Nipigan country, which enters that Lake about thirty-five leagues East

of the Grande Portage. In short, the country is so broken by lakes and

rivers, that people may find their way in canoes in any direction they

please. It is now four miles to Portage de L'Isle, which is but short,

though several canoes have been lost in attempting to run the rapid.

From thence it is twenty-six miles to Jacob's Falls, which are about

fifteen feet high; and six miles and an half to the woody point; forty

yards from which is another Portage. They both form an high fall, but

not perpendicular. From thence to another galet, or rock Portage, is

about two miles, which is one continual rapid and cascade; and about two

miles further is the Chute a l'Esclave, which is upward of thirty feet.

The Portage is long, through a point covered with wood: it is six miles

and an half more to the barrier, and ten miles to the Grand Rapid. From

thence, on the North side, is a safe road, when the waters are high,

through small rivers and lakes, to the Lake du Bonnet, called the

Pinnawas, from the man who discovered it: to the White River, so called

from its being, for a considerable length, a succession of falls and

cataracts, is twelve miles. Here are seven portages, in so short a

space, that the whole of them are discernible at the same moment. From

this to Lake du Bonnet is fifteen miles more, and four miles across it

to the rapid. Here the Pinnawas Road joins, and from thence it is two

miles to the Galet du Lac du Bonnet; from this to the Galet du Bonnet

one mile and an half; thence to the Portage of the same name is three

miles. This portage is near half a league in length, and derives its

name from the custom the Indians have of crowning stones, laid in a

circle on the highest rock in the portage, with wreaths of herbage and

branches. There have been examples of men taking seven packages of

ninety pounds each, at one end of the portage, and putting them down at

the other without stopping.

To this another small portage immediately succeeds, over a rock

producing a fall. From thence to the fall of Terre Blanche is two miles

and an half; to the first portage Des Eaux qui Remuent is three miles;

to the next, of the same name, is but a few yards distant; to the third

and last, which is a Decharge, is three miles and an half; and from this

to the last Portage of the river, one mile and an half; and to the

establishment, or provision house, is two miles and an half. Here also

the French had their principal inland depot, and got their canoes made.

It is here that the present traders, going to great distances, and where

provision is difficult to procure, receive a supply to carry them to the

Rainy Lake, or Lake Superior. From the establishment to the entrance of

Lake Winipic, is four miles and an half, latitude 50. 37. North.

The country, soil, produce, and climate, from Lake Superior to this

place, bear a general resemblance, with a predominance of rock and

water: the former is of the granite kind. Where there is any soil it is

well covered with wood, such as oak, elm, ash of different kinds, maple

of two kinds, pines of various descriptions, among which are what I call

the cypress, with the hickory, ironwood, laird, poplar, cedar, black and

white birch, etc., etc. Vast quantities of wild rice are seen

throughout the country, which the natives collect in the month of August

for their winter stores.[8] To the North of fifty degrees it is hardly

known, or at least does not come to maturity.

Lake Winipic is the great reservoir of several large rivers, and

discharges itself by the River Nelson into Hudson's Bay. The first in

rotation, next to that I have just described, is the Assiniboin, or Red

River, which at the distance of forty miles coastwise, disembogues on

the south west side of the Lake Winipic. It alternately receives those

two denominations from its dividing, at the distance of about thirty

miles from the lake, into two large branches; The Eastern branch, called

the Red River, runs in a Southern direction to near the head waters of

the Mississippi. On this are two trading establishments. The country

on either side is but partially supplied with wood, and consists of

plains covered with herds of the buffalo and elk, especially on the

Western side. On the Eastern side are lakes and rivers, and the whole

country is well wooded, level, abounding in beaver, bears, moose-deer,

fallow deer, etc., etc. The natives, who are of the Algonquin tribe,

are not very numerous, and are considered as the natives of Lake

Superior. This country being near the Mississippi, is also inhabited by

the Nadowasis, who are the natural enemies of the former; the head of

the water being the war-line, they are in a continual state of

hostility; and though the Algonquins are equally brave, the others

generally out-number them; it is very probable, therefore, that if the

latter continue to venture out of the woods, which form their only

protection, they will soon be extirpated. There is not, perhaps, a

finer country in the world for the residence of uncivilised man, than

that which occupies the space between this river and Lake Superior. It

abounds in every thing necessary to the wants and comforts of such a

people. Fish, venison, and fowl, with wild rice, are in great plenty;

while, at the same time, their subsistence requires that bodily exercise

so necessary to health and vigour.

This great extent of country was formerly very populous, but from the

information I received, the aggregate of its inhabitants does not exceed

three hundred warriors; and, among the few whom I saw, it appeared to me

that the widows were more numerous than the men. The raccoon is a

native of this country, but is seldom found to the Northward of it.

The other branch is called after the tribe of the Nadowasis, who here go

by the name of Assiniboins, and are the principal inhabitants of it. It

runs from the North-North-West, and in the latitude of 51. 15. West, and

longitude 103. 20., rising in the same mountains as the river Dauphin,

of which I shall speak in due order. They must have separated from

their nation at a time beyond our knowledge, and live in peace with the

Algonquins and Knisteneaux.

The country between this and the Red River, is almost a continual plain

to the Mississoury. The soil is sand and gravel, with a slight

intermixture of earth, and produces a short grass. Trees are very rare;

nor are there on the banks of the river sufficient, except in particular

spots, to build houses and supply fire-wood for the trading

establishments, of which there are four principal ones. Both these

rivers are navigable for canoes to their source, without a fall; though

in some parts there are rapids, caused by occasional beds of limestone,

and gravel; but in general they have a sandy bottom.

The Assiniboins, and some of the Fall or Big-bellied Indians, are the

principal inhabitants of this country, and border on the river,

occupying the centre part of it; that next Lake Winipic, and about its

source, being the station of the Algonquins and Knisteneaux, who have

chosen it in preference to their own country. They do not exceed five

hundred families. They are not beaver hunters, which accounts for their

allowing the division just mentioned, as the lower and upper parts of

this river have those animals, which are not found in the intermediate

district. They confine themselves to hunting the buffalo, and trapping

wolves, which cover the country. What they do not want of the former

for raiment and food, they sometimes make into pemmican, or pounded

meat, while they melt the fat, and prepare the skins in their hair, for

winter. The wolves they never eat, but produce a tallow from their fat,

and prepare their skins; all which they bring to exchange for arms and

ammunition, rum, tobacco, knives, and various baubles, with those who go

to traffic in their country.

The Algonquins, and the Knisteneaux, on the contrary, attend to the

fur-hunting, so that they acquire the additional articles of cloth,

blankets, etc., but their passion for rum often puts it out of their

power to supply themselves with real necessaries.

The next river of magnitude is the river Dauphin, which empties itself

at the head of St. Martin's Bay, on the West side of the Lake Winipic,

latitude nearly 52. 15. North, taking its source in the same mountains

as the last-mentioned river, as well as the Swan and Red-Deer rivers,

the latter passing through the lake of the same name, as well as the

former, and both continuing their course through the Manitoba Lake,

which, from thence, runs parallel with Lake Winipic, to within nine

miles of the Red River, and by what is called the river Dauphin,

disembogues its waters, as already described, into that lake. These

rivers are very rapid, and interrupted by falls, etc., the bed being

generally rocky. All this country, to the South branch of the

Saskatchiwine, abounds in beaver, moose-deer, fallow-deer, elks, bears,

buffaloes, etc. The soil is good, and wherever any attempts have been

made to raise the esculent plants, etc., it has been found productive.

On these waters are three principal forts for trade. Fort Dauphin,

which was established by the French before the conquest. Red-Deer

River, and Swan-River Forts, with occasional detached posts from these.

The inhabitants are the Knisteneaux, from the North of Lake Winipic; and

Algonquins from the country between the Red River and Lake Superior; and

some from the Rainy Lake: but as they are not fixed inhabitants, their

number cannot be determined: they do not, however, at any time exceed

two hundred warriors. In general they are good hunters. There is no

other considerable river except the Saskatchiwine, which I shall mention

presently, that empties itself into the Lake Winipic.

Those on the North side are inconsiderable, owing to the comparative

vicinity of the high land that separates the waters coming this way,

from those discharging into Hudson's Bay. The course of the lake is

about West-North-West and South-South-East, and the East end of it is in

50. 37. North. It contracts at about a quarter of its length to a

strait, in latitude 51. 45., and is no more than two miles broad, where

the South shore is gained through islands, and crossing various bays to

the discharge of the Saskatchiwine, in latitude 53. 15. This lake, in

common with those of this country, is bounded on the North with banks of

black and grey rock, and on the South by a low level country,

occasionally interrupted with a ridge or bank of lime-stones, lying in

stratas, and rising to the perpendicular height of from twenty to forty

feet; these are covered with a small quantity of earth, forming a level

surface, which bears timber, but of a moderate growth, and declines to a

swamp. Where the banks are low, it is evident in many places that the

waters are withdrawn, and never rise to those heights which were

formerly washed by them.

The inhabitants who are found along this lake are of the Knisteneaux and

Algonquin tribes, and but few in number, though game is not scarce, and

there is fish in great abundance. The black bass is found there, and no

further West; and beyond it no maple trees are seen, either hard or

soft.

On entering the Saskatchiwine, in the course of a few miles, the great

rapid interrupts the passage. It is about three miles long. Through

the greatest part of it the canoe is towed, half or full laden,

according to the state of the waters: the canoe and its contents are

then carried one thousand one hundred paces. The channel here is near a

mile wide, the waters tumbling over ridges of rocks that traverse the

river. The South bank is very high, rising upwards of fifty feet, of

the same rock as seen on the South side of the Lake Winipic, and the

North is not more than a third of that height. There is an excellent

sturgeon-fishery at the foot of this cascade, and vast numbers of

pelicans, cormorants, etc., frequent it, where they watch to seize the

fish that may be killed or disabled by the force of the waters.

About two miles from this Portage the navigation is again interrupted by

the Portage of the Roche Rouge, which is an hundred yards long; and a

mile and an half from thence the river is barred by a range of islands,

forming rapids between them; and through these it is the same distance

to the rapid of Lake Travers, which is four miles right across, and

eight miles in length. Then succeeds the Grande Decharge, and several

rapids, for four miles to the Cedar Lake, which is entered through a

small channel on the left, formed by an island, as going round it would

occasion loss of time. In this distance banks of rocks (such as have

already been described) appear at intervals on, either side; the rest of

the country is low. This is the case along the South bank of the lake

and the islands, while the North side, which is very uncommon, is level

throughout. This lake runs first West four miles, then as much more

West-South-West, across a deep bay on the right, then six miles to the

Point de Lievre, and across another bay again on the right; then

North-West eight miles, across a still deeper hay on the right; and

seven miles parallel with the North coast, North-North-West through

islands, five miles more to Fort Bourbon,[9] situated on a small island,

dividing this from Mud Lake.

The Cedar Lake is from four to twelve miles wide, exclusive, of the

bays. Its banks are covered with wood, and abound in game, and its

waters produce plenty of fish, particularly the sturgeon. The Mud Lake,

and the neighbourhood of the Fort Bourbon, abound with geese, ducks,

swans, etc., and was formerly remarkable for a vast number of martens,

of which it cannot now boast but a very small proportion.

The Mud Lake must have formerly been a part of the Cedar Lake, but the

immense quantity of earth and sand, brought down by the Saskatchiwine,

has filled up this part of it for a circumference whose diameter is at

least fifteen or twenty miles: part of which space is still covered with

a few feet of water, but the greatest proportion is shaded with large

trees, such as the liard, the swamp-ash, and the willow. This land

consists of many islands, which consequently form various channels,

several of which are occasionally dry, and bearing young wood. It is,

indeed, more than probable that this river will, in the course of time,

convert the whole of the Cedar Lake into a forest. To the North-West

the cedar is not to be found.

From this lake the Saskatchiwine may be considered as navigable to near

its source in the rocky mountains, for canoes, and without a

carrying-place, making a great bend to Cumberland House, on Sturgeon

Lake. From the confluence of its North and South branches its course is

Westerly; spreading itself, it receives several tributary streams, and

encompasses a large tract of country, which is level, particularly along

the South branch, but is little known. Beaver, and other animals, whose

furs are valuable, are amongst the inhabitants of the North-West branch,

and the plains are covered with buffaloes, wolves, and small foxes;

particularly about the South branch, which, however, has of late claimed

some attention, as it is now understood, that where the plains terminate

towards the rocky mountain, there is a space of hilly country clothed

with wood, and inhabited also by animals of the fur kind. This has been

actually determined to be the case towards the head of the North branch,

where the trade has been carried to about the latitude 54. North, and

longitude 114. 30. West. The bed and banks of the latter, in some few

places, discover a stratum of free-stone; but, in general, they are

composed of earth and sand. The plains are sand and gravel, covered

with fine grass, and mixed with a small quantity of vegetable earth,

This is particularly observable along the North branch, the West side of

which is covered with wood.

There are on this river five principal factories for the convenience of

trade with the natives. Nepawi House, South-branch House, Fort-George

House, Fort-Augustus House, and Upper Establishment. There have been

many others, which, from various causes, have been changed for these,

while there are occasionally others depending on each of them.

The inhabitants, from the information I could obtain, are as follow:

At Nepawi and South-Branch House, about thirty tents of Knisteneaux, or

ninety warriors; and sixty tents of Stone Indians, or Assiniboins, who

are their neighbours, and are equal to two hundred men: their hunting

ground extends upwards to about the Eagle Hills. Next to them are those

who trade at Forts George and Augustus, and are about eighty tents or

upwards of Knisteneaux: on either side of the river, their number may be

two hundred. In the same country are one hundred and forty tents of

Stone Indians: not quite half of them inhabit the West woody country;

the others never leave the plains, and their numbers cannot be less than

four hundred and fifty men. At the Southern Head-waters of the

North-branch dwells a tribe called Sarsees, consisting of about

thirty-five tents, or one hundred and twenty men. Opposite to those

Eastward, on the head-waters of the South Branch, are the Picaneaux, to

the number of from twelve to fifteen hundred men. Next to them, on the

same water, are the Blood-Indians, of the same nation as the last, to

the number of about fifty tents, or two hundred and fifty men. From

them downwards extend the Black-Feet Indians, of the same nation as the

two last tribes: their number may be eight hundred men. Next to them,

and who extend to the confluence of the South and North branch, are the

Fall, or Big-bellied Indians, who may amount to about six hundred

warriors.

Of all these different tribes, those who inhabit the broken country on

the North-West side, and the source of the North branch, are

beaver-hunters; the others deal in provisions, wolf, buffalo, and fox

skins; and many people on the South branch do not trouble themselves to

come near the trading establishments. Those who do, choose such

establishments as are next to their country. The Stone-Indians here,

are the same people as the Stone-Indians, or Assiniboins, who inhabit

the river of that name already described, and both are detached tribes

from the Nadowasis, who inhabit the Western side of the Mississippi, and

lower part of the Missisoury. The Fall, or Big-bellied Indians, are

from the South-Eastward also, and of a people who inhabit the plains

from the North bend of the last mentioned river, latitude 47.

32. North, longitude 101. 25. West, to the South bend of the Assiniboin

River, to the number of seven hundred men. Some of them occasionally

come to the latter river to exchange dressed buffalo robes and bad

wolf-skins for articles of no great value.

The Picaneaux, Black-Feet, and Blood-Indians, are a distinct people,

speak a language of their own, and, I have reason to think, are

travelling North-West, as well as the others just mentioned: nor have I

heard of any Indians with whose language that which they speak has any

affinity.--They are the people who deal in horses, and take them upon

the war-parties towards Mexico; from which, it is evident, that the

country to the South-East of them consists of plains, as those animals

could not well be conducted through an hilly and woody country,

intersected by waters.

The Sarsees, who are but few in number, appear from their language, to

come on the contrary from the North-West, and are of the same people as

the Rocky-Mountain Indians described in my second journal, who are a

tribe of the Chepewyans; and, as for the Knisteneaux, there is no

question of their having been, and continuing to be, invaders of this

country, from the Eastward. Formerly, they struck terror into all the

other tribes whom they met; but now they have lost the respect that was

paid them; as those whom they formerly considered as barbarians are now

their allies, and consequently become better acquainted with them, and

have acquired the use of fire-arms. The former are still proud without

power, and affect to consider the others as their inferiors: those

consequently are extremely jealous of them, and, depending upon their

own superiority in numbers, will not submit tamely to their insults; so

that the consequences often prove fatal, and the Knisteneaux are thereby

decreasing both in power and number; spirituous liquors also tend to

their diminution, as they are instigated thereby to engage in quarrels

which frequently have the most disastrous termination among themselves.

The Stone-Indians must not be considered in the same point of view

respecting the Knisteneaux, for they have been generally obliged, from

various causes, to court their alliance. They, however, are not without

their disagreements, and it is sometimes very difficult to compose their

differences. These quarrels occasionally take place with the traders,

and sometimes have a tragical conclusion. They generally originate in

consequence of stealing women and horses: they have great numbers of the

latter throughout their plains, which are brought, as has been observed,

from the Spanish settlements in Mexico; and many of them have been seen

even in the back parts of this country, branded with the initials of

their original owners' names. Those horses are distinctly employed as

beasts of burden, and to chase the buffalo. The former are not

considered as being of much value, as they may be purchased for a gun,

which costs no more than twenty-one shillings in Great Britain. Many of

the hunters cannot be purchased with ten, the comparative value of which

exceeds the property of any native.

Of these useful animals no care whatever is taken, as when they are no

longer employed, they are turned loose winter and summer to provide for

themselves. Here, it is to be observed, that the country, in general,

on the West and North side of this great river, is broken by the lakes

and rivers with small intervening plains, where the soil is good, and

the grass grows to some length. To these the male buffaloes resort for

the winter, and if it be very severe, the females also are obliged to

leave the plains.

But to return to the route by which the progress West and North is made

through this continent.

We leave the Saskatchiwine[10] by entering the river which forms the

discharge of the Sturgeon Lake, on whose East bank is situated

Cumberland house, in latitude 53. 56. North, longitude 102. 15. The

distance between the entrance and Cumberland house is estimated at

twenty miles.

It is very evident that the mud which is carried down by the

Saskatchiwine River, has formed the land that lies between it and the

lake, for the distance of upwards of twenty miles in the line of the

river, which is inundated during one half of the summer, though covered

with wood. This lake forms an irregular horse-shoe, one side of which

runs to the North-West, and bears the name of Pine-Island Lake, and the

other, known by the name already mentioned, runs to the East of North,

and is the largest: its length is about twenty-seven miles, and its

greatest breadth about six miles. The North side of the latter is the

same kind of rock as that described in Lake Winipic, on the West shore.

In latitude 54. 16. North, the Sturgeon-Weir River discharges itself

into this lake, and its bed appears to be of the same kind of rock, and

is almost a continual rapid. Its direct course is about West by North,

and with its windings, is about thirty miles. It takes its waters into

the Beaver Lake the South-West side of which consists of the same rock

lying in thin stratas: the route then proceeds from island to island for

about twelve miles, and along the North shore, for four miles more, the

whole being a North-West course to the entrance of a river, in latitude

54. 32. North. The lake, for this distance, is about four or five miles

wide, and abounds with fish common to the country. The part of it upon

the right of that which has been described, appears more considerable.

The islands are rocky, and the lake itself surrounded by rocks. The

communication from hence to the Bouleau Lake, alternately narrows into

rivers and spreads into small lakes. The interruptions are, the Pente

Portage, which is succeeded by the Grand Rapid, where there is a

Decharge, the Carp Portage, the Bouleau Portage in latitude

54. 50. North, including a distance, together with the windings, of

thirty-four miles, in a Westerly direction. The Lake de Bouleau then

follows. This lake might with greater propriety be denominated a canal,

as it is not more than a mile in breadth. Its course is rather to the

East of North for twelve miles to Portage de L'Isle. From thence there

is still water to Portage d'Epinettes, except an adjoining rapid. The

distance is not more than four miles Westerly. After crossing this

Portage, it is not more than two miles to Lake Miron, which is in

latitude 55. 7. North. Its length is about twelve miles, and its

breadth irregular, from two to ten miles. It is only separated from

Lake du Chitique, or Pelican Lake, by a short, narrow, and small strait.

That lake is not more than seven miles long, and its course about

North-West. The Lake des Bois then succeeds, the passage to which is

through small lakes, separated by falls and rapids. The first is a

Decharge: then follow the three galets, in immediate succession. From

hence Lake des Bois runs about twenty-one miles. Its course is

South-South-East, and North-North-West, and is full of islands. The

passage continues through an intricate, narrow, winding, and shallow

channel for eight miles. The interruptions in this distance are

frequent, but depend much on the state of the waters. Having passed

them, it is necessary to cross the Portage de Traite, or, as it is

called by the Indians, Athiquisipichigan Ouinigam, or the Portage of the

Stretched Frog Skin, to the Missinipi. The waters already described

discharge themselves into Lake Winipic, and augment those of the river

Nelson. These which we are now entering are called the Missinipi, or

great Churchill River.

All the country to the South and East of this, within the line of the

progress that has been described, is interspersed by lakes, hills, and

rivers, and is full or animals, of the fur-kind, as well as the

moose-deer. Its inhabitants are the Knisteneaux Indians, who are called

by the servants of the Hudson's Bay Company, at York, their home-guards.

The traders from Canada succeeded for several years in getting the

largest proportion of their furs, till the year 1793, when the servants

of that company thought proper to send people amongst them, (and why

they did not do it before is best known to themselves), for the purpose

of trade, and securing their credits, which the Indians were apt to

forget. From the short distance they had to come, and the quantity of

goods they supplied, the trade has, in a great measure, reverted to

them, as the merchants from Canada could not meet them upon equal terms.

What added to the loss of the latter, was the murder of one of their

traders by the Indians, about this period. Of these people not above

eighty men have been known to the traders from Canada, but they consist

of a much greater number.

The Portage de Traite, as has been already hinted, received its name

from Mr. Joseph Frobisher, who penetrated into this part of the country

from Canada, as early as the years 1774 and 1775, where he met with the

Indians in the spring, on their way to Churchill, according to annual

custom, with their canoes full of valuable furs. They traded with him

for as many of them as his canoes could carry, and in consequence of

this transaction, the Portage received and has since retained its

present appellation. He also denominated these waters the English

River. The Missinipi is the name which it received from the

Knisteneaux, when they first came to this country, and either destroyed

or drove back the natives, whom they held in great contempt, on many

accounts, but particularly for their ignorance in hunting the beaver, as

well as in preparing, stretching, and drying the skins of those animals.

And as a sign of their derision, they stretched the skin of a frog, and

hung it up at the Portage. This was, at that time, the utmost extent of

their conquest or war-faring progress West, and is in latitude 55.

25. North, and longitude 103. 45. West. The river here, which bears the

appearance of a lake, takes its name from the Portage, and is full of

islands. It runs from East to West about sixteen miles, and is from

four to five miles broad. Then succeed falls and cascades which form

what is called the grand rapid. From thence there is a succession of

small lakes and rivers, interrupted by rapids and falls, viz., the

Portage de Bareel, the Portage de L'Isle, and that of the Rapid River.

The course is twenty miles from East-South-East to North-North-West.

The Rapid-River Lake then runs West five miles, and is of an oval form.

The rapid river is the discharge of Lake la Ronge, where there has been

an establishment for trade from the year 1782. Since the small-pox

ravaged these parts, there have been but few inhabitants; these are of

the Knisteneaux tribe, and do not exceed thirty men. The direct

navigation continues to be through rivers and canals, interrupted by

rapids; and the distance to the first Decharge is four miles, in a

Westerly direction. Then follows Lake de la Montagne, which runs

South-South-West three miles and an half, then North six miles, through

narrow channels, formed by islands, and continues North-North-West five

miles, to the portage of the same name, which is no sooner crossed, than

another appears in sight, leading to the Otter Lake, from whence it is

nine miles Westerly to the Otter Portage, in latitude 55. 39. Between

this and the Portage du Diable, are several rapids, and the distance

three miles and an half. Then succeeds the lake of the same name,

running from South-East to North-West, five miles, and West four miles

and an half.

There is then a succession of small lakes, rapids, and falls, producing

the Portage des Ecors, Portage du Galet, and Portage des Morts, the

whole comprehending a distance of six miles, to the lake of the latter

name. On the left side is a point covered with human bones, the relics

of the small-pox; which circumstance gave the Portage and the lake this

melancholy denomination. Its course is South-West fifteen miles, while

its breadth does not exceed three miles. From thence a rapid river

leads to Portage de Hallier, which is followed by Lake de Isle d'Ours:

it is, however, improperly called a lake, as it contains frequent

impediments amongst its islands, from rapids. There is a very dangerous

one about the centre of it, which is named the Rapid qui ne parle point,

or that never speaks, from its silent whirlpool-motion. In some of the

whirlpools the suction is so powerful, that they are carefully avoided.

At some distance from the silent rapid is a narrow strait, where the

Indians have painted red figures on the face of a rock, and where it was

their custom formerly to make an offering of some of the articles which

they had with them, in their way to and from Churchill. The course of

this lake, which is very meandering, may be estimated at thirty-eight

miles, and is terminated by the Portage du Canot Tourner, from the

danger to which those are subject who venture to run this rapid. From

thence a river of one mile and an half North-West course leads to the

Portage de Bouleau, and in about half a mile to Portage des Epingles, so

called from the sharpness of its stones. Then follows the Lake des

Souris, the direction across which is amongst islands, North-West by

West six miles. In this traverse is an island, which is remarkable for

a very large stone, in the form of a bear, on which the natives have

painted the head and snout of that animal; and here they also were

formerly accustomed to offer sacrifices. This lake is separated only by

a narrow strait from the Lake du Serpent, which runs North-North-West

seven miles, to a narrow channel, that connects it with another lake,

bearing the same name, and running the same course for eleven miles,

when the rapid of the same denomination is entered on the West side of

the lake. It is to be remarked here, that for about three or four miles

on the North-West side of this lake, there is an high bank of clay and

sand, clothed with cypress trees, a circumstance which is not observable

on any lakes hitherto mentioned, as they are bounded, particularly on

the North, by black and grey rocks. It may also be considered as a most

extraordinary circumstance, that the Chepewyans go North-West from hence

to the barren grounds, which are their own country, without the

assistance of canoes; as it is well known that in every other part which

has been described, from Cumberland House, the country is broken on

either side of the direction to a great extent: so that a traveller

could not go at right angles with any of the waters already mentioned,

without meeting with others in every eight or ten miles. This will also

be found to be very much the case in proceeding to Portage la Loche.

The last mentioned rapid is upwards of three miles long, North-West by

West; there is, however, no carrying, as the line and poles are

sufficient to drag and set the canoes against the current. Lake Croche

is then crossed in a Westerly direction of six miles, though its whole

length may be twice that distance: after which it contracts to a river

that runs Westerly for ten miles, when it forms a bend, which is left to

the South, and entering a portion of its waters called the Grass River,

whose meandering course is about six miles, but in a direct line not

more than half that length, where it receives its waters from the great

river, which then runs Westerly eleven miles before it forms the Knee

Lake, whose direction is to the North of West. It is full of islands

for eighteen miles, and its greatest apparent breadth is not more than

five miles. The portage of the same name is several hundred yards long,

and over large stones. Its latitude is 55. 50. and longitude 106. 30.

Two miles further North is the commencement of the Croche Rapid, which

is a succession of cascades for about three miles, making a bend due

South to the Lake du Primeau, whose course is various, and through

islands, to the distance of about fifteen miles. The banks of this lake

are low, stony, and marshy, whose grass and rushes afford shelter and

food to great numbers of wild fowl. At its Western extremity is Portage

la Puise, from whence the river takes a meandering course, widening and

contracting at intervals, and is much interrupted by rapids. After a

Westerly course of twenty miles, it reaches Portage Pellet. From hence,

in the course of seven miles, are three rapids, to which succeeds the

Shagoina Lake, which may be eighteen miles in circumference. Then

Shagoina strait and rapid lead into the Lake of Isle a la Crosse, in

which the course is South twenty miles, and South-South-West fourteen

miles, to the Point au Sable; opposite to which is the discharge of the

Beaver-River, bearing South six miles: the lake in the distance run,

does not exceed twelve miles in its greatest breadth. It now turns

West-South-West, the Isle a la Crosse being on the South, and the main

land on the North; and it clears the one and the other in the distance

of three miles, the water presenting an open horizon to right and left;

that on the left formed by a deep narrow bay, about ten leagues in

depth; and that to the right by what is called la Riviere Creuse, or

Deep River, being a canal of still water, which is here four miles wide.

On following the last course, Isle a la Crosse Fort appears on a low

isthmus, at the distance of five miles, and is in latitude

55. 25. North, and longitude 107. 48. West.

This lake and fort take their names from the island just mentioned,

which, as has been already observed, received its denomination from the

game of the cross, which forms a principal amusement among the natives.

The situation of this lake, the abundance of the finest fish in the

world to be found in its waters, the richness of its surrounding banks

and forests, in moose and fallow deer, with the vast numbers of the

smaller tribes of animals, whose skins are precious, and the numerous

flocks of wild fowl that frequent it in the spring and fall, make it a

most desirable spot for the constant residence of some, and the

occasional rendezvous of others of the inhabitants of the country,

particularly of the Knisteneaux.

Who the original people were that were driven from it, when conquered by

the Knisteneaux, is not now known, as not a single vestige remains of

them. The latter, and the Chepewyans, are the only people that have

been known here; and it is evident that the last-mentioned consider

themselves as strangers, and seldom remain longer than three or four

years, without visiting their relations and friends in the barren

grounds, which they term their native country. They were for some time

treated by the Knisteneaux as enemies; who now allow them to hunt to the

North of the track which has been described, from Fort du Traite

upwards, but when they occasionally meet them, they insist on

contributions, and frequently punish resistance with their arms. This

is sometimes done at the forts, or places of trade, but then it appears

to be a voluntary gift. A treat of rum is expected on the occasion,

which the Chepewyans on no other account ever purchase; and those only

who have had frequent intercourse with the Knisteneaux have any

inclination to drink it.

When the Europeans first penetrated into this country, in 1777, the

people of both tribes were numerous, but the small-pox was fatal to them

all, so that there does not exist of the one, at present, more than

forty resident families; and the other has been from about thirty to two

hundred families. These numbers are applicable to the constant and less

ambitious inhabitants, who are satisfied with the quiet possession of a

country affording, without risk or much trouble, every thing necessary

to their comfort; for since traders have spread themselves over it, it

is no more the rendezvous of the errant Knisteneaux, part of whom used

annually to return thither from the country of the Beaver River, which

they had explored to its source in their war and hunting excursions, and

as far as the Saskatchiwine, where they sometimes met people of their

own nation, who had prosecuted similar conquests up that river. In that

country they found abundance of fish and animals, such as have been

already described, with the addition of the buffaloes, who range in the

partial patches of meadow scattered along the rivers and lakes. From

thence they returned in the spring to their friends whom they had left;

and, at the same time met with others who had penetrated with the same

designs into the Athabasca country, which will be described hereafter.

The spring was the period of this joyful meeting, when their time was

occupied in feasting, dancing, and other pastimes, which were

occasionally suspended for sacrifice, and religious solemnity: while the

narratives of their travels, and the history of their wars, amused and

animated the festival. The time of rejoicing was but short, and was

soon interrupted by the necessary preparations for their annual journey

to Churchill, to exchange their furs for such European articles as were

now become necessary to them. The shortness of the seasons, and the

great length of their way requiring the utmost despatch, the most active

men of the tribe, with their youngest women, and a few of their children

undertook the voyage, under the direction of some of their chiefs,

following the waters already described, to their discharge at Churchill

Factory, which are called, as has already been observed, the Missinipi,

or Great Waters. There they remained no longer than was sufficient to

barter their commodities, with a supernumerary day or two to gratify

themselves with the indulgence of spirituous liquors. At the same time

the inconsiderable quantity they could purchase to carry away with them,

for a regale with their friends, was held sacred, and reserved to

heighten the enjoyment of their return home, when the amusements,

festivity, and religious solemnities of the spring were repeated. The

usual time appropriated to these convivialities being completed, they

separated, to pursue their different objects; and if they were

determined to go to war, they made the necessary arrangements for their

future operations.

But we must now renew the progress of the route. It is not more than

two miles from Isle a la Crosse Fort, to a point of land which forms a

cheek of that part of the lake called the Riviere Creuse, which

preserves the breadth already mentioned for upwards of twenty miles;

then contracts to about two, for the distance of ten miles more, when it

opens to Lake Clear, which is very wide, and commands an open horizon,

keeping the West shore for six miles. The whole of the distance

mentioned is about North-West, when, by a narrow, crooked channel,

turning to the South of West, the entry is made into Lake du Boeuf,

which is contracted near the middle, by a projecting sandy point;

independent of which it may be described as from six to twelve miles in

breadth, thirty-six miles long, and in a North-West direction. At the

North-West end, in latitude 56. 8. it receives the waters of the river

la Loche, which, in the fall of the year, is very shallow, and navigated

with difficulty even by half-laden canoes. Its water is not sufficient

to form strong rapids, though from its rocky bottom the canoes are

frequently in considerable danger. Including its meanders, the course

of this river may be computed at twenty-four miles, and receives its

first waters from the lake of the same name, which is about twenty miles

long, and six wide; into which a small river flows, sufficient to bear

loaded canoes, for about a mile and an half, where the navigation

ceases; and the canoes, with their lading, are carried over the Portage

la Loche for thirteen miles.

This portage is the ridge that divides the waters which discharge

themselves into Hudson's Bay, from those that flow into the Northern

ocean, and is in the latitude 56. 20. and longitude 109. 15. West. It

runs South-West until it loses its local height between the

Saskatchiwine and Elk Rivers; close on the bank of the former, in

latitude 53. 36. North, and longitude 113. 45. West, it may be traced

in an Easterly direction toward latitude 58. 12. North, and longitude

103-1/2. West, when it appears to take its course due North, and may

probably reach the Frozen Seas.

From Lake le Souris, the banks of the rivers and lakes display a smaller

portion of solid rock. The land is low and stony, intermixed with a

light, sandy soil, and clothed with wood. That of the Beaver River is

of a more productive quality: but no part of it has ever been cultivated

by the natives or Europeans, except a small garden at the Isle a la

Crosse, which well repaid the labour bestowed upon it.

The Portage la Loche is of a level surface, in some parts abounding with

stones, but in general it is an entire sand, and covered with the

cypress, the pine, the spruce fir, and other trees natural to its soil.

Within three miles of the North-West termination, there is a small round

lake, whose diameter does not exceed a mile, and which affords a

trifling respite to the labour of carrying. Within a mile of the

termination of the Portage is a very steep precipice, whose ascent and

descent appears to be equally impracticable in any way, as it consists

of a succession of eight hills, some of which are almost perpendicular;

nevertheless, the Canadians contrive to surmount all these difficulties,

even with their canoes and lading.

This precipice, which rises upwards of a thousand feet above the plain

beneath it, commands a most extensive, romantic, and ravishing prospect.

From thence the eye looks down on the course of the little river, by

some called the Swan river, and by others, the Clear-Water and Pelican

river, beautifully meandering for upwards of thirty miles. The valley,

which is at once refreshed and adorned by it, is about three miles in

breadth, and is confined by two lofty ridges of equal height, displaying

a most beautiful intermixture of wood and lawn, and stretching on till

the blue mist obscures the prospect. Some parts of the inclining

heights are covered with stately forests, relieved by promontories of

the finest verdure, where the elk and buffalo find pasture. These are

contrasted by spots where fire has destroyed the woods, and left a

dreary void behind it. Nor, when I beheld this wonderful display of

uncultivated nature, was the moving scenery of human occupation wanting

to complete the picture. From this elevated situation, I beheld my

people, diminished, as it were, to half their size, employed in pitching

their tents in a charming meadow, and among the canoes, which, being

turned upon their sides, presented their reddened bottoms in contrast

with the surrounding verdure. At the same time, the process of gumming

them produced numerous small spires of smoke, which, as they rose,

enlivened the scene, and at length blended with the larger columns that

ascended from the fires where the suppers were preparing. It was in the

month of September when I enjoyed a scene, of which I do not presume to

give an adequate description; and as it was the rutting season of the

elk, the whistling of that animal was heard in all the variety which the

echoes could afford it.

This river, which waters and reflects such enchanting scenery, runs,

including its windings, upwards of eighty miles, when it discharges

itself in the Elk River, according to the denomination of the natives,

but commonly called by the white people, the Athabasca River, in

latitude 56. 42. North.

At a small distance from Portage la Loche, several carrying-places

interrupt the navigation of the river; about the middle of which are

some mineral springs, whose margins are covered with sulphureous

incrustations. At the junction or fork, the Elk River is about three

quarters of a mile in breadth, and runs in a steady current, sometimes

contracting, but never increasing its channel, till, after receiving

several small streams, it discharges itself into the Lake of the Hills,

in latitude 58. 36. North. At about twenty-four miles from the Fork,

are some bituminous fountains, into which a pole of twenty feet long may

be inserted without the least resistance. The bitumen is in a fluid

state, and when mixed with gum, or the resinous substance collected from

the spruce fir, serves to gum the canoes. In its heated state it emits

a smell like that of sea-coal. The banks of the river, which are there

very elevated, discover veins of the same bituminous quality. At a

small distance from the Fork, houses have been erected for the

convenience of trading with a party of the Knisteneaux, who visit the

adjacent country for the purpose of hunting.

At the distance of about forty miles from the lake, is the Old

Establishment, which has been already mentioned, as formed by Mr. Pond

in the year 1778-9, and which was the only one in this part of the

world, till the year 1785. In the year 1788 it was transferred to the

Lake of the Hills, and formed on a point on its Southern side, at about

eight miles from the discharge of the river. It was named Fort

Chepewyan, and is in latitude 58. 38. North, longitude 110. 26. West,

and much better situated for trade and fishing as the people here have

recourse to water for their support.

This being the place which I made my headquarters for eight years, and

from whence I took my departure, on both my expeditions, I shall give

some account of it, with the manner of carrying on the trade there, and

other circumstances connected with it.

The laden canoes which leave Lake la Pluie about the first of August, do

not arrive here till the latter end of September, or the beginning of

October, when a necessary proportion of them is despatched up the Peace

River to trade with the Beaver and Rocky-Mountain Indians. Others are

sent to the Slave River and Lake, or beyond them, and traffic with the

inhabitants of that country. A small part of them, if not left at the

Fork of the Elk River, return thither for the Knisteneaux, while the

rest of the people and merchandise remain here, to carry on trade with

the Chepewyans.

Here have I arrived with ninety or an hundred men without any provision

for their sustenance; for whatever quantity might have been obtained

from the natives during the summer, it could not be more than sufficient

for the people despatched to their different posts; and even if there

were a casual superfluity, it was absolutely necessary to preserve it

untouched, for the demands of the spring. The whole dependence,

therefore, of those who remained, was on the lake, and fishing

implements for the means of our support. The nets are sixty fathom in

length, when set, and contain fifteen meshes of five inches in depth.

The manner of using them is as follows: A small stone and wooden buoy

are fastened to the side-line opposite to each other, at about the

distance of two fathoms; when the net is carefully thrown into the

water, the stone sinks it to the bottom, while the buoy keeps it at its

full extent, and it is secured in its situation by a stone at either

end. The nets are visited every day, and taken out every other day to

be cleaned and dried. This is a very ready operation when the waters

are not frozen, but when the frost has set in, and the ice has acquired

its greatest thickness, which is sometimes as much as five feet, holes

are cut in it at the distance of thirty feet from each other, to the

full length of the net; one of them is larger than the rest, being

generally about four feet square, and is called the basin: by means of

them, and poles of a proportionable length, the nets are placed in and

drawn out of the water. The setting of hooks and lines is so simple an

employment as to render a description unnecessary. The white fish are

the principal object of pursuit: they spawn in the fall of the year,

and, at about the setting in of the hard frost, crowd in shoals to the

shallow water, when as many as possible are taken, in order that a

portion of them may be laid by in the frost to provide against the

scarcity of winter; as, during that season, the fish of every

description decrease in the lakes, if they do not altogether disappear.

Some have supposed that during this period they are stationary, or

assume an inactive state. If there should be any intervals of warm

weather during the fall, it is necessary to suspend the fish by the

tail, though they are not so good as those which are altogether

preserved by the frost. In this state they remain to the beginning of

April, when they have been found as sweet as when they were caught.[11]

Thus do these voyagers live, year after year, entirely upon fish,

without even the quickening flavour of salt, or the variety of any

farinaceous root or vegetable. Salt, however, if their habits had not

rendered it unnecessary, might be obtained in this country to the

Westward of the Peace River, where it loses its name in that of the

Slave River, from the numerous salt-ponds and springs to be found there,

which will supply in any quantity, in a state of concretion, and

perfectly white and clean. When the Indians pass that way they bring a

small quantity to the fort, with other articles of traffic.

During a short period of the spring and fall, great numbers of wild fowl

frequent this country, which prove a very gratifying food after such a

long privation of flesh-meat. It is remarkable, however, that the

Canadians who frequent the Peace, Saskatchiwine, and Assiniboin rivers,

and live altogether on venison, have a less healthy appearance than

those whose sustenance is obtained from the waters. At the same time

the scurvy is wholly unknown among them.

In the fall of the year the natives meet the traders at the forts, where

they barter the furs or provisions which they may have procured; they

then obtain credit, and proceed to hunt the beavers, and do not return

till the beginning of the year; when they are again fitted out in the

same manner and come back the latter end of March, or the beginning of

April; They are now unwilling to repair to the beaver hunt until the

waters, are clear of ice, that they may kill them with fire-arms, which

the Chepewyans are averse to employ. The major part of the latter

return to the barren grounds, and live during the summer with their

relations and friends in the enjoyment of that plenty which is derived

from numerous herds of deer. But those of that tribe who are most

partial to these deserts, cannot remain there in winter, and they are

obliged, with the deer, to take shelter in the woods during that

rigorous season, when they contrive to kill a few beavers, and send them

by young men, to exchange for iron utensils and ammunition.

Till the year 1782, the people of Athabasca sent or carried their furs

regularly to Fort Churchill, Hudson's Bay; and some of them have, since

that time, repaired thither, notwithstanding they could have provided

themselves with all the necessaries which they required. The difference

of the price set on goods here and at the factory, made it an object

with the Chepewyans to undertake a journey of five or six months, in the

course of which they were reduced to the most painful extremities, and

often lost their lives from hunger and fatigue, At present, however,

this traffic is in a great measure discontinued, as they were obliged to

expend in the course of their journey, that very ammunition which was

its most alluring object.

[1] This might be properly called the stock of the company, as it

included, with the expenditure of the year, the amount of the property

unexpended, which had been appropriated for the adventure of that year,

and was carried on to the account of the following adventure.

[2] This will be better illustrated by the following statement:--We

will suppose the goods for 1798: The orders for the goods are sent to

this country 25th October, 1796; they are shipped from London March,

1797; they arrive in Montreal June, 1797; they are made up in the course

of that summer and winter; they are sent from Montreal May, 1798; they

arrive in the Indian country, and are exchanged for furs the following

winter, 1798-99; which furs come to Montreal September, 1799; and are

shipped for London; where they are sold in March and April, and paid for

in May or June, 1800.

[3] The place where the goods alone are carried, is called a _Decharge_,

and that where goods and canoes are both transported overland, is

denominated a _Portage_.

[4] In the year 1668, when the first missionaries visited the South of

this lake, they found the country full of inhabitants. They relate,

that about this time a band of the Nepisingues, who were converted,

emigrated to the Nipigon country, which is to the North of Lake

Superior. Few of their descendants are now remaining, and not a trace

of the religion communicated to them is to be discovered.

[5] Corn is the cheapest provision that can be procured, though from the

expense of transport, the bushel costs about twenty shillings sterling,

at the Grande Portage. A man's daily allowance does not exceed

ten-pence.

[6] Here is a most excellent fishery for white fish, which are

exquisite.

[7] The route which we have been travelling hitherto, leads along the

high rocky land or bank of Lake Superior on the left. The face of the

country offers a wild scene of huge hills and rocks, separated by stony

valleys, lakes and ponds. Wherever there is the least soil, it is well

covered with trees.

[8] The fruits are, strawberries, hurtleberries, plums, and cherries,

hazelnuts, gooseberries, currents, raspberries, poires, etc.

[9] This was also a principal post of the French, who gave it its name.

[10] It may be proper to observe, that the French had two settlements

upon the Saskatchiwine, long before, and at the conquest of Canada; the

first at the Pasquia, near Carrot River, and the other at Nipawi, where

they had agricultural instruments and wheel carriages, marks of both

being found about those establishments, where the soil is excellent.

[11] This fishery requires the most unremitting attention, as the

voyaging Canadians are equally indolent, extravagant, and improvident,

when left to themselves, and rival the savages in a neglect of the

morrow.

SOME ACCOUNT OF THE KNISTENEAUX INDIANS.

These people are spread over a vast extent of country. Their language

is the same as that of the people who inhabit the coast of British

America on the Atlantic, with the exception of the Esquimaux,[1] and

continues along the coast of Labrador, and the gulf and banks of

St. Laurence to Montreal.

The line then follows the Utawas river to its source; and continues from

thence nearly West along the highlands which divides the waters that

fall into Lake Superior and Hudson's Bay. It then proceeds till it

strikes the middle part of the river Winipic, following that water to

the Lake Winipic, to the discharge of the Saskatchiwine into it; from

thence it accompanies the latter to Fort George, when the line, striking

by the head of the Beaver river to the Elk river, runs along its banks

to its discharge in the Lake of the Hills; from which it may be carried

back East, to the Isle a la Crosse, and so on to Churchill by the

Missinipi, The whole of the tract between this line and Hudson's Bay and

Straits (except that of the Esquimaux in the latter), may be said to be

exclusively the country of the Knisteneaux. Some of them indeed, have

penetrated further West and South to the Red River, to the South of Lake

Winipic, and the South branch of the Saskatchiwine.

They are of a moderate stature, well proportioned, and of great

activity. Examples of deformity are seldom to be seen among them.

Their complexion is of a copper colour, and their hair black, which is

common to all the natives of North America. It is cut in various forms,

according to the fancy of the several tribes, and by some is left in the

long, lank, flow of nature. They very generally extract their beards,

and both sexes manifest a disposition to pluck the hair from every part

of their body and limbs. Their eyes are black, keen, and penetrating;

their countenance open and agreeable, and it is a principal object of

their vanity to give every possible decoration to their persons. A

material article in their toilets is vermilion, which they contrast with

their native blue, white, and brown earths, to which charcoal is

frequently added.

Their dress is at once simple and commodious. It consists of tight

leggins, reaching near the hip: a strip of cloth or leather, called

assian, about a foot wide, and five feet long, whose ends are drawn

inwards and hang behind and before, over a belt tied round the waist for

that purpose: a close vest or shirt reaching down to the former garment,

and cinctured with a broad strip of parchment fastened with thongs

behind; and a cap for the head, consisting of a piece of fur, or small

skin, with the brush of the animal as a suspended ornament: a kind of

robe is thrown occasionally over the whole of the dress, and serves both

night and day. These articles, with the addition of shoes and mittens,

constitute the variety of their apparel. The materials vary according

to the season, and consist of dressed moose-skin, beaver prepared with

the fur, or European woollens. The leather is neatly painted, and

fancifully worked in some parts with porcupine quills, and moose-deer

hair: the shirts and leggins are also adorned with fringe and tassels;

nor are the shoes and mittens without somewhat of appropriate

decoration, and worked with a considerable degree of skill and taste.

These habiliments are put on, however, as fancy or convenience suggests;

and they will sometimes proceed to the chase in the severest frost,

covered only with the slightest of them.

Their head-dresses are composed of the feathers of the swan, the eagle,

and other birds. The teeth, horns, and claws of different animals, are

also the occasional ornaments of the head and neck. Their hair, however

arranged, is always besmeared with grease. The making of every article

of dress is a female occupation; and the women, though by no means

inattentive to the decoration of their own persons, appear to have a

still greater degree of pride in attending to the appearance of the men,

whose faces are painted with more care than those of the women.

The female dress is formed of the same materials as those of the other

sex, but of a different make and arrangement. Their shoes are commonly

plain, and their leggins gartered beneath the knee. The coat, or body

covering, falls down to the middle of the leg, and is fastened over the

shoulders with cords, a flap or cape turning down about eight inches,

both before and behind, and agreeably ornamented with quill-work and

fringe; the bottom is also fringed, and fancifully painted as high as

the knee. As it is very loose, it is enclosed round the waist with a

stiff belt, decorated with tassels, and fastened behind. The arms are

covered to the wrist, with detached sleeves, which are sewed as far as

the bend of the arm; from thence they are drawn up to the neck, and the

corners of them fall down behind, as low as the waist. The cap, when

they wear one, consists of a certain quantity of leather or cloth, sewed

at one end, by which means it is kept on the head, and, hanging down the

back, is fastened to the belt, as well as under the chin. The upper

garment is a robe like that worn by the men. Their hair is divided on

the crown, and tied behind, or sometimes fastened in large knots over

the ears. They are fond of European articles, and prefer them to their

own native commodities. Their ornaments consist in common with all

savages, in bracelets, rings, and similar baubles. Some of the women

tattoo three perpendicular lines, which are sometimes double: one from

the centre of the chin to that of the under lip, and one parallel on

either side to the corner of the mouth.

Of all the nations which I have seen on this continent, the Knisteneaux

women are the most comely. Their figure is generally well proportioned,

and the regularity of their features would be acknowledged by the more

civilized people of Europe. Their complexion has less of that dark

tinge which is common to those savages who have less cleanly habits.

These people are, in general, subject to few disorders. The lues

venera, however, is a common complaint, but cured by the application of

simples, with whose virtues they appear to be well acquainted. They are

also subject to fluxes, and pains in the breast, which some have

attributed to the very keen and cold air which they inhale; but I should

imagine that these complaints must frequently proceed from their

immoderate indulgence in fat meat at their feasts, particularly when

they have been preceded by long fasting.

They are naturally mild and affable, as well as just in their dealings,

not only among themselves, but with strangers.[2] They are also generous

and hospitable, and good-natured in the extreme, except when their

nature is perverted by the inflammatory influence of spirituous liquors.

To their children they are indulgent to a fault. The father, though he

assumes no command over them, is ever anxious to instruct them in all

the preparatory qualifications for war and hunting; while the mother is

equally attentive to her daughters in teaching them every thing that is

considered as necessary to their character and situation. It does not

appear that the husband makes any distinction between the children of

his wife, though they may be the offspring of different fathers.

Illegitimacy is only attached to those who are born before their mothers

have cohabited with any man by the title of husband.

It does not appear, that chastity is considered by them as a virtue; or

that fidelity is believed to be essential to the happiness of wedded

life, Though it sometimes happens that the infidelity of a wife is

punished by the husband with the loss of her hair, nose, and perhaps

life; such severity proceeds from its having been practised without his

permission: for a temporary interchange of wives is not uncommon: and

the offer of their persons is considered as a necessary part of the

hospitality due to strangers.

When a man loses his wife, it is considered as a duty to marry her

sister, if she has one; or he may, if he pleases, have them both at the

same time.

It will appear from the fatal consequences I have repeatedly imputed to

the use of spirituous liquors that I more particularly consider these

people as having been, morally speaking, great sufferers from their

communication with the subjects of civilized nations. At the same time

they were not, in a state of nature, without their vices, and some of

them of a kind which is the most abhorrent to cultivated and reflecting

man. I shall only observe, that incest and bestiality are among them.

When a young man marries, he immediately goes to live with the father

and mother of his wife, who treat him, nevertheless, as a perfect

stranger, till after the birth of his first child: he then attaches

himself more to them than his own parents; and his wife no longer gives

him any other denomination than that of the father of her child.

The profession of the men is war and hunting, and the more active scene

of their duty is the field of battle, and the chase in the woods. They

also spear fish, but the management of the nets is left to the women.

The females of this nation are in the same subordinate state with those

of all other savage tribes, but the severity of their labour is much

diminished by their situation on the banks of lakes and rivers, where

they employ canoes. In the winter, when the waters are frozen, they

make their journeys, which are never of any great length, with sledges

drawn by dogs. They are, at the same time, subject to every kind of

domestic drudgery; they dress the leather, make the clothes and shoes,

weave the nets, collect wood, erect the tents, fetch water, and perform

every culinary service; so that when the duties of maternal care are

added, it will appear, that the life of these women is an uninterrupted

succession of toil and pain. This, indeed, is the sense they entertain

of their own situation; and under the influence of that sentiment, they

are sometimes known to destroy their female children, to save them from

the miseries which they themselves have suffered. They also have a

ready way, by the use of certain simples, of procuring abortions, which

they sometimes practise, from their hatred of the father, or to save

themselves the trouble which children occasion: and, as I have been

credibly informed, this unnatural act is repeated without any injury to

the health of the women who perpetrate it.

The funeral rites begin, like all other solemn ceremonials, with

smoking, and are concluded by a feast. The body is dressed in the best

habiliments possessed by the deceased, or his relations, and is then

deposited in a grave lined with branches; some domestic utensils are

place on it, and a kind of canopy erected over it. During this

ceremony, great lamentations are made, and if the departed person is

very much regretted, the near relations cut off their hair, pierce the

fleshy part of their thighs and arms with arrows, knives, etc, and

blacken their faces with charcoal. If they have distinguished

themselves in war, they are sometimes laid on a kind of scaffolding; and

I have been informed, that women, as in the East, have been known to

sacrifice themselves to the manes of their husbands. The whole of the

property belonging to the departed person is destroyed, and the

relations take in exchange for the wearing apparel, any rags that will

cover their nakedness. The feast bestowed on the occasion, which is, or

at least used to be, repeated annually, is accompanied with eulogiums on

the deceased, and without any acts of ferocity. On the tomb are carved

or painted the symbols of his tribe, which are taken from the different

animals of the country.

Many and various are the motives which induce a savage to engage in war.

To prove his courage, or to revenge the death of his relations, or some

of his tribe, by the massacre of an enemy. If the tribe feel themselves

called upon to go to war, the elders convene the people, in order to

know the general opinion. If it be for war, the chief publishes his

intention to smoke in the sacred stem at a certain period, to which

solemnity, meditation and fasting are required as preparatory

ceremonials. When the people are thus assembled, and the meeting

sanctified by the custom of smoking, the chief enlarges on the causes

which have called them together, and the necessity of the measures

proposed on the occasion. He then invites those who are willing to

follow him, to smoke out of the sacred stem, which is considered as the

token of enrolment; and if it should be the general opinion that

assistance is necessary, others are invited, with great formality, to

join them. Every individual who attends these meetings, brings

something with him as a token of his warlike intention, or as an object

of sacrifice, which, when the assembly dissolves, is suspended from

poles near the place of council.

They have frequent feasts, and particular circumstances never fail to

produce them, such as a tedious illness, long fasting, etc. On these

occasions it is usual for the person who means to give the

entertainment, to announce his design, on a certain day, of opening the

medicine-bag, and smoking out of his sacred stem. This declaration is

considered as a sacred vow that cannot be broken. There are also stated

periods, such as the spring and autumn, when they engage in very long

and solemn ceremonies. On these occasions dogs are offered as

sacrifices, and those which are very fat, and milk-white, are preferred.

They also make large offerings of their property, whatever it may be.

The scene of these ceremonies is in an open inclosure on the bank of a

river or lake, and in the most conspicuous situation, in order that such

as are passing along or travelling, may be induced to make their

offerings. There is also a particular custom among them, that, on these

occasions, if any of the tribe, or even a stranger, should be passing

by, and be in real want of any thing that is displayed as an offering,

he has a right to take it, so that he replaces it with some article he

can spare, though it be of far inferior value; but to take or touch any

thing wantonly is considered as a sacrilegious act, and highly insulting

to the great Master of Life, to use their own expression, who is the

sacred object of their devotion.

The scene of private sacrifice is the lodge of the person who performs

it, which is prepared for that purpose, by removing every thing out of

it, and spreading green branches in every part. The fire and ashes are

also taken away. A new hearth is made of fresh, earth, and another fire

is lighted. The owner of the dwelling remains alone in it; and he

begins the ceremony by spreading a piece of new cloth, or a well-dressed

moose-skin neatly painted, on which he opens his medicine-bag and

exposes its contents, consisting of various articles. The principal of

them is a kind of household god, which is a small carved image about

eight inches long. Its first covering is of down, over which a piece of

birch-bark is closely tied, and the whole is enveloped in several folds

of red and blue cloth. This little figure is an object of the most

pious regard. The next article is his war-cap, which is decorated with

the feathers and plumes of scarce birds, beavers, and eagle's claws,

etc. There is also suspended from it a quill or feather for every enemy

whom the owner of it has slain in battle. The remaining contents of the

bag are, a piece of Brazil tobacco, several roots and simples, which are

in great estimation for their medicinal qualities, and a pipe. These

articles being all exposed, and the stem resting upon two forks, as it

must not touch the ground, the master of the lodge sends for the person

he most esteems, who sits down opposite to him; the pipe is then filled

and fixed to the stem. A pair of wooden pincers is provided to put the

fire in the pipe, and a double-pointed pin, to empty it of the remnant

of tobacco which is not consumed. This arrangement being made, the men

assemble, and sometimes the women are allowed to be humble spectators,

while the most religious awe and solemnity pervades the whole. The

Michiniwais, or Assistant, takes up the pipe, lights it, and presents it

to the officiating person, who receives it standing and holds it between

both his hands. He then turns himself to the East, and draws a few

whiffs, which he blows to that point. The same ceremony he observes to

the other three quarters, with his eyes directed upwards during the

whole of it. He holds the stem about the middle between the three first

fingers of both hands, and raising them upon a line with his forehead,

he swings it three times round from the East, with the sun, when, after

pointing and balancing it in various directions, he reposes it on the

forks: he then makes a speech to explain the design of their being

called together, which concludes with an acknowledgment for past

mercies, and a prayer for the continuance of them, from the Master of

Life. He then sits down, and the whole company declare their

approbation and thanks by uttering the word _ho!_ with an emphatic

prolongation of the last letter. The Michiniwais then takes up the pipe

and holds it to the mouth of the officiating person, who, after smoking

three whiffs out of it, utters a short prayer, and then goes round with

it, taking his course from East to West, to every person present, who

individually says something to him on the occasion; and thus the pipe is

generally smoked out; when, after turning it three or four times round

his head, he drops it downwards, and replaces it in its original

situation. He then returns the company thanks for their attendance, and

wishes them, as well as the whole tribe, health and long life.

These smoking rites precede every matter of great importance with more

or less ceremony, but always with equal solemnity. The utility of them

will appear from the following relation.

If a chief is anxious to know the disposition of his people towards him,

or if he wishes to settle any difference between them, he announces his

intention of opening his medicine-bag and smoking in his sacred stem;

and no man who entertains a grudge against any of the party thus

assembled can smoke with the sacred stem; as that ceremony dissipates

all differences, and is never violated.

No one can avoid attending on these occasions; but a person may attend

and be excused from assisting at the ceremonies, by acknowledging that

he has not undergone the necessary purification. The having cohabited

with his wife, or any other woman, within twenty-four hours preceding

the ceremony, renders him unclean, and, consequently, disqualifies him

from performing any part of it. If a contract is entered into and

solemnised by the ceremony of smoking, it never fails of being

faithfully fulfilled. If a person, previous to his going a journey,

leaves the sacred stem as a pledge of his return, no consideration

whatever will prevent him from executing his engagement.[3]

The chief, when he proposes to make a feast, sends quills, or small

pieces of wood, as tokens of invitation to such as he wishes to partake

of it. At the appointed time the guests arrive, each bringing a dish or

platter, and a knife, and take their seats on each side of the chief,

who receives them sitting, according to their respective ages. The pipe

is then lighted, and he makes an equal division of every thing that is

provided. While the company are enjoying their meal, the chief sings,

and accompanies his song with the tambourine, or shishiquoi, or rattle.

The guest who has first eaten his portion is considered as the most

distinguished person. If there should be any who cannot finish the

whole of their mess, they endeavour to prevail on some of their friends

to eat it for them, who are rewarded for their assistance with

ammunition and tobacco. It is proper also to remark, that at these

feasts a small quantity of meat or drink is sacrificed, before they

begin to eat, by throwing it into the fire, or on the earth.

These feasts differ according to circumstances; sometimes each man's

allowance is no more than he can despatch in a couple of hours. At

other times the quantity is sufficient to supply each of them with food

for a week, though it must be devoured in a day. On these occasions it

is very difficult to procure substitutes, and the whole must be eaten

whatever time it may require. At some of these entertainments there is

a more rational arrangement, when the guests are allowed to carry home

with them the superfluous part of their portions. Great care is always

taken that the bones may be burned, as it would be considered a

profanation were the dogs permitted to touch them.

The public feasts are conducted in the same manner, but with some

additional ceremony. Several chiefs officiate at them, and procure the

necessary provisions, as well as prepare a proper place of reception for

the numerous company. Here the guests discourse upon public topics,

repeat the heroic deeds of their forefathers, and excite the rising

generation to follow their example. The entertainments on these

occasions consist of dried meats, as it would not be practicable to

dress a sufficient quantity of fresh meat for such a large assembly;

though the women and children are excluded.

Similar feasts used to be made at funerals, and annually, in honour of

the dead; but they have been, for some time, growing into disuse, and I

never had an opportunity of being present at any of them.

The women, who are forbidden to enter the places sacred to these

festivals, dance and sing around them, and sometimes beat time to the

music within them; which forms an agreeable contrast.

With respect to their divisions of time, they compute the length of

their journeys by the number of nights passed in performing them; and

they divide the year by the succession of moons. In this calculation,

however, they are not altogether correct, as they cannot account for the

odd days.

The names which they give to the names are descriptive of the several

seasons.

May Atheiky o Pishim Frog Moon.

June Oppinu o Pishim The Moon in which

birds begin to lay

their eggs.

July Aupascen o Pishim The Moon when

birds cast their

feathers.

August Aupahou o Pishim The Moon when

the young birds

begin to fly.

September Waskiscon o Pishim The Moon when

the moose deer

cast their horns.

October Wisac o Pishim The Rutting-Moon.

November Thithigon Pewai Hoar-Frost Moon.

o Pishim

Kuskatinsyoui Ice Moon.

o Pishim

December Pawatchicananasis Whirlwind-Moon.

o Pishim

January Kushapawasticanum Extreme cold

o Pishim Moon.

February Kichi Pishim Big Moon; some

say, Old Moon.

March Mickysue Pishim Eagle Moon.

April Niscaw o Pishim Goose Moon.

These people know the medicinal virtues of many herbs and simples, and

apply the roots of plants and the bark of trees with success. But the

conjurers, who monopolize the medical science, find it necessary to

blend mystery with their art, and do not communicate their knowledge.

Their materia medica they administer in the form of purges and clysters,

but the remedies and surgical operations are supposed to derive much of

their effect from magic and incantation. When a blister rises in the

foot from the frost, the chafing of the shoe, etc., they immediately

open it, and apply the heated blade of a knife to the part, which,

painful as it may be, is found to be efficacious. A sharp flint serves

them as a lancet for letting blood, as well as for scarification in

bruises and swellings. For sprains, the dung of an animal just killed

is considered as the best remedy. They are very fond of European

medicines, though they are ignorant of their application: and those

articles form an inconsiderable part of the European traffic with them.

Among their various superstitions, they believe that the vapour which is

seen to hover over moist and swampy places, is the spirit of some person

lately dead. They also fancy another spirit which appears, in the shape

of a man, upon the trees near the lodge of a person deceased, whose

property has not been interred with them. He is represented as bearing

a gun in his hand, and it is believed that he does not return to his

rest, till the property that has been withheld from the grave has been

sacrificed to it.

EXAMPLES OF THE KNISTENEAUX AND ALGONQUIN TONGUES.

Knisteneaux. Algonquin.

Good Spirit Ki jai Manitou Ki jai Manitou.

Evil Spirit Matchi manitou Matchi-manitou.

Man Ethini Inini

Woman Esquois Ich-quois.

Male Nap hew Aquoisi.

Female Non-gense Non-gense.

Infant A' wash ish Abi nont-chen.

Head Us ti quoin O'chiti-goine.

Forehead Es caatick O catick.

Hair Wes ty-ky Winessis.

Eyes Es kis och Oskingick.

Nose Oskiwin O'chengewane.

Nostrils Oo tith ee go mow Ni-de-ni-guom.

Mouth O toune O tonne.

My teeth Wip pit tah Nibit.

Tongue Otaithani O-tai-na-ni.

Beard Michitoune Omichitonn.

Brain With i tip Aba-e winikan.

Ears O tow ee gie O-ta wagane.

Neck O qui ow O'quoi gan.

Throat O koot tas gy Nigon dagane.

Arms O nisk O nic.

Fingers Che chee Ni nid gines.

Nails Wos kos sia Os-kenge.

Side O's spig gy Opikegan.

My back No pis quan Ni-pi quoini.

My belly Nattay Ni my sat.

Thighs O povam Obouame.

My knees No che quoin noh Ni gui tick.

Legs Nos Ni gatte.

Heart Ok thea Othai.

My father Noo ta wie Nossai.

My mother Nigah wei Nigah.

My boy (son) Negousis Nigouisses.

My girl (daughter) Netanis Nidaniss.

My brother, elder Ni stess Nis-a-yen.

My sister, elder Ne miss Nimisain.

My grandfather Ne moo shum Ni-mi-chomiss.

My grandmother N'o kum No-co-miss.

My uncle N' o'ka miss Ni ni michomen.

My nephew Ne too sim Ne do jim.

My niece Ne too sim esquois Ni-do-jim equois

My mother-in-law Nisigouse Ni sigousiss.

My brother-in-law Nistah Nitah.

My companion Ne wechi wagan Ni-wit-chi-wagan.

My husband Ni nap pem Ni na bem.

Blood Mith coo Misquoi.

Old Man Shi nap Aki win se.

I am angry Ne kis si wash en Nis Katissiwine.

I fear Ne goos tow Nisest guse.

Joy Ne hea tha tom Mamond gikisi.

Hearing Pethom Oda wagan.

Track Mis conna Pemi ka wois.

Chief, great ruler Haukimah Kitchi onodis.

Thief Kismouthesk Ke moutiske.

Excrement Meyee Moui.

Buffalo Moustouche Pichike.

Ferret Sigous Shingouss.

Polecat Shicak Shi kak.

Elk Moustouche Michai woi.

Rein deer Attick Atick.

Fellow deer Attick Wa wasquesh.

Beaver Amisk Amic.

Wolverine Qui qua katch Quin quoagki.

Squirrel Ennequachas Otchi ta mou.

Minx Sa quasue Shaugouch.

Otter Nekick Ni guick.

Wolf Mayegan Maygan.

Hare Wapouce Wapouce.

Marten Wappistan Wabichinse.

Moose Mouswah Monse.

Bear Masqua Macqua.

Fisher Wijask Od-jisck.

Lynx Picheu Pechou.

Porcupine Cau quah Kack.

Fox Mikasew Wagouche.

Musk Rat Wajask Wa-jack.

Mouse Abicushiss Wai wa be gou noge.

Cow Buffalo Noshi Moustouche Nochena pichik.

Meat-flesh Wias Wi-ass.

Dog Atim Ani-mouse.

Eagle Makusue Me-guissis.

Duck Sy Sip Shi-sip.

Crow, Corbeau Ca Cawkeu Ka Kak.

Swan Wapiseu Wa-pe-sy.

Turkey Mee sei thew Mississay.

Pheasants Okes kew Ajack.

Bird Pethesew Pi-na-sy.

Outard Niscag Nic kack.

White Goose Wey Wois Woi wois.

Grey Goose Pestasish Pos ta kisk.

Partridge Pithew Pen ainse.

Water Hen Chiquibish Che qui bis.

Dove Omi Mee O mi-mis.

Eggs We Wah Wa Weni.

Pike or Jack Kenonge Kenonge.

Carp Na may bin Na me bine.

Sturgeon Na May Na Maiu.

White fish Aticaming Aticaming.

Pickerel Oc-chaw Oh-ga.

Fish (in general) Kenonge Ki-cons.

Spawn Waquon Wa quock.

Fins Chi chi kan O nidj-igan.

Trout Nay gouse Na Men Gouse.

Craw Fish A shag gee A cha kens chacque.

Frog Atahick O ma ka ki.

Wasp Ah moo A mon.

Turtle Mikinack Mi-ki-nack.

Snake Kinibick Ki nai bick.

Awl Oscajick Ma-gose.

Needle Saboinigan Sha-bo nigan.

Fire steel Appet Scoutecgan

Fire wood Mich-tah Missane.

Cradle Teckinigan Tickina-gan.

Dagger Ta Comagau Na-ba-ke-gou-man.

Arrow Augusk or Atouche Mettic ka nouins.

Fish Hook Quosquipichican Maneton Miquiscan.

Ax Shegaygan Wagagvette.

Ear-bob Chi-kisebisoun Na be chi be soun

Comb Sicahoun Pin ack wan.

Net Athabe Assap.

Tree Mistick Miti-coum.

Wood Mistick Mitic.

Paddle Aboi Aboui.

Canoe Chiman S-chiman.

Birch Rind Wasquoi Wig nass.

Bark Wasquoi On-na-guege.

Touch Wood Pousagan Sa-ga-tagan.

Leaf Nepeshah Ni-biche.

Grass Masquosi Masquosi.

Raspberries Misqui-meinac Misqui meinac.

Strawberries O'-tai-e minac O'-tai-e minac.

Ashes Pecouch Pengoui.

Fire Scou tay Scou tay.

Grapes Shomenac Shomenac.

Fog Pakishihow A Winni.

Mud Asus ki A Shiski.

Currant Kisijiwin Ki si chi woin.

Road Mescanah Mickanan.

Winter Pipoun Pipone.

Island Ministick Miniss.

Lake Sagayigan Sagayigan.

Sun Pisim Kijis.

Moon Tibisca pesim Dibic Kijis

(the night Sun)

Day Kigigah Kigi gatte.

Night Tabisca Dibic kawte.

Snow Counah So qui po.

Rain Kimiwoin Ki mi woini

Drift Pewan Pi-woine.

Hail Shes eagan Me qua mensan.

Ice Mesquaming Me quam.

Frost Aquatin Gas-ga-tin.

Mist Picasyow An-quo-et.

Water Nepec Nipei.

World Messeasky Missi achki.

(all the earth)

Mountain Wachee Watchive.

Sea Kitchi kitchi gaming Kitchi kitchi gaming.

Morning Kequishepe Ki-ki-jep.

Mid-day Abetah quisheik Na ock quoi.

Portage Unygam Ouni-gam.

Spring Menouscaming Mino ka ming.

River Sipee Sipi.

Rapid Bawastick Ba wetick.

Rivulet Sepeesis Sipi wes chin.

Sand Thocaw Ne gawe.

Earth Askee Ach ki.

Star Attack Anang.

Thunder Pithuseu Ni mi ki.

Wind Thoutin No tine.

Calm Athawostin A-no-a-tine.

Heat Quishipoi Aboyce.

Evening Ta kashike O'n-a-guche.

North Kywoitin Ke woitinak.

South Sawena woon Sha-wa-na-wang.

East Coshawcastak Wa-ba-no-no-tine.

West Paquisimow Panguis-chi-mo.

Tomorrow Wabank Wa-bang.

Bone Oskann Oc-kann.

Broth Michim waboi Thaboub.

Feast Ma qua see Wi con qui wine.

Grease or oil Pimis Pimi-tais.

Marrow fat Oscan pimis Oska-pimitais.

Sinew Asstis Attiss.

Lodge Wig-waum Wi-gui-wam.

Bed Ne pa win Ne pai wine.

Within Pendog ke Pendig.

Door Squandam Scouandam.

Dish Othagan O' na gann.

Fort Wasgaigan Wa-kuigan.

Sledge Tabanask Otabanac.

Cincture Poquoatehoun Ketche pisou,

Cap Astotin Pe matinang.

Socks Ashican A chi-gan.

Shirt Papackeweyan Pa pa ki weyan.

Coat Papise-co-wagan Papise-co-wa-gan

Blanket Wape weyang Wape weyan.

Cloth Maneto weguin Maneto weguin.

Thread Assabab Assabab.

Garters Chi ki-bisoon Ni gaske-tase besoun.

Mittens Astissack Medjica wine.

Shoes Maskisin Makisin.

Smoking bag Kusquepetagan Kasquepetagan.

Portage sling Apisan Apican,

Strait on Goi ask Goi-ack.

Medicine Mas ki kee Macki-ki.

Red Mes coh Mes-cowa.

Blue Kasqutch (same O-jawes-cowa.

as black)

White Wabisca Wabisca.

Yellow Saw waw O-jawa.

Green Chibatiquare O'jawes-cowa.

Brown O'jawes-cowa.

Grey, etc. O'jawes-cowa.

Ugly Mache na gouseu Mous-counu-gouse.

Handsome Catawassiseu Nam bissa.

Beautiful Kissi Sawenogan Quoi Natch.

Deaf Nima petom Ka ki be chai.

Good-natured Mithi washin Onichishin.

Pregnant: Paawie And-jioko.

Fat Outhineu Oui-ni-noe.

Big Mushikitee Messha.

Small or little Abisasheu Agu-chin.

Short Chemasish Tackosi.

Skin Wian Wian.

Long Kinwain Kiniwa.

Strong Mascawa |Mache-cawa.

|Mas-cawise.

Coward Sagatahaw Cha-goutai-ye.

Weak Nitha missew Cha-gousi.

Lean Mahta waw Ka wa ca tosa.

Brave Nima Gustaw Son qui taige.

Young man Osquineguish Oskinigui.

Cold Kissin Kissinan.

Hot Kichatai Kicha tai.

Spring Minouscaming Minokaming.

Summer Nibin Nibiqui.

Fall Tagowagonk Tagowag.

One Peyac Pecheik.

Two Nisheu Nige.

Three Nishtou Nis-wois.

Four Neway Ne-au.

Five Ni-annan Na-nan.

Six Negoutawoesic Ni gouta was-wois.

Seven Nish woisic Nigi-was-wois.

Eight Jannanew She was wois.

Nine Shack Shang was wois.

Ten Mitatat Mit-asswois.

Eleven Peyac osap Mitasswois, hachi pecheik.

Twelve Nisheu osap Mitasswois, hachi, nige.

Thirteen Nichtou osap Mitasswois, hachi, niswois.

Fourteen Neway osap Mitasswois, hachi, ne-au.

Fifteen Niannan osap Mitasswois, hachi, nanan.

Sixteen Nigoutawoesic osap Mitasswois, hachi, negoutawaswois.

Seventeen Nish woesic osap Mitasswois, hachi, nigi was-wois.

Eighteen Jannenew osap Mitasgwois, hachi, shiwasswois.

Nineteen Shack osap Mitasswois, hachi, shang as wois.

Twenty Nisheu mitenah Nigeta-nan.

Twenty-one Nishew mitenah Nigeta nan, hachi, pechic.

peyac osap

Twenty-two, etc. Nisheu mitenah

nishew osap

Thirty Nishtou mitenah Niswois mitanan.

Forty Neway mitenah Neau mitanan.

Fifty Niannan mitenah Nanan mitanen.

Sixty Negoutawoisic Nigouta was wois mitanan.

mitenah

Seventy Nishwoisic mitenah Nigi was wois mitanan.

Eighty Jannaeu mitenah She was wois mitanan.

Ninety Shack mitenah Shang was wois mitanan.

Hundred Mitana mitenan Ningoutwack.

Two hundred Neshew mitena a Nige wack.

mitenah

One thousand Mitenah mitena Kitchi-wack.

mitenah

First Nican Nitam.

Last Squayatch Shaquoiyanke.

More Minah Awa-chi min.

Better Athiwack mitha- A wachimin o

washin nichi shen.

Best Atniwack mitha- Kitchi o nichi shin.

washin

I. or me Nitha Nin.

You, or thou Kitha Kin.

They, or them Withawaw Win na wa.

We Nithawaw Nina wa.

My, or mine Nitayen Nida yam.

Your's Kitayan Kitayem.

Who Auoni.

Whom Awoine Kegoi nin.

What Wa

His, or her's Otayan Otayim mis.

All Kakithau Kakenan.

Some, or some few Pey peyac Pe-pichic.

The same Tabescoutch Mi ta yoche.

All the world Missi acki wanque Mishiwai asky.

All the men Kakithaw Ethi nyock Missi Inini wock.

More Mina Mine wa.

Now and then Nannigoutengue.

Sometimes I as-cow-puco

Seldom Wica-ac-ko.

Arrive Ta couchin Ta-gouchin.

Beat Otamaha Packit-ais.

To burn Mistascasoo Icha-quiso.

To sing Nagamoun Nagam.

To cut Kisquishan Qui qui jan.

To hide Catann Caso tawe.

To cover Acquahoun A co na oune.

To believe Taboitam Tai boitam.

To sleep Nepan Ni pann.

To dispute Ke ko mitowock Ki quaidiwine.

To dance Nemaytow Nimic.

To give Mith Mih.

To do Ogitann O-gitoune.

To eat Wissinee Wissiniwin.

To die Nepew Ni po wen.

To forget Winnekiskisew Woi ni mi kaw.

To speak Athimetakcouse Aninntagousse.

To cry (tears) Mantow Ma wi.

To laugh Papew Pa-pe

To set down Nematappe Na matape win.

To walk Pimoutais Pemoussai.

To fall Packisin Panguishin.

To work Ah tus kew Anokeh.

To kill Nipahaw Nishi-woes.

To sell Attawoin Ata wois.

To live Pimatise Pematis.

To see Wabam Wab.

To come Astamoteh Pitta-si-mouss.

Enough Egothigog Mi mi nic.

Cry (tears) Manteau Ambai ma wita.

It hails Shisiagan Sai saigaun.

There is |

There is some | Aya wa Aya wan.

It rains Quimiwoin Qui mi woin.

After to-morrow Awis wabank Awas webang.

To-day Anoutch Non gum.

Thereaway Netoi Awoite.

Much Michett Ni bi wa.

Presently Pichisqua Pitchinac.

Make, heart Quithipeh Wai we be.

This morning Shebas Shai bas.

This night Tibiscag De bi cong.

Above Espiming O kitchiai.

Below Tabassish Ana mai.

Truly Taboiy Ne de wache

Already Sashay Sha shaye.

Yet more Minah Mina wa.

Yesterday Tacoushick Pitchinago.

Far Wathow Wassa.

Near Quishiwoac Paishou.

Never Nima wecatch Ka wi ka.

No Nima Ke wine.

Yes Ah In.

By-and-bye Pa-nima Pa-nima.

Always Ka-ki-kee Ka qui nick

Make haste Quethepeh Niguim.

It's long since Mewaisha Mon wisha.

[1] The similarity between their language and that of the Algonquins is

an unequivocal proof that they are the same people. Specimens of their

respective tongues will be hereafter given.

[2] They have been called thieves, but when that vice can with justice

be attributed to them, it may be traced to their connexion with the

civilized people who come into their country to traffic.

[3] It is, however, to be lamented, that of late there is a relaxation

of the duties originally attached to these festivals.

SOME ACCOUNT OF THE CHEPEWYAN INDIANS.

They are a numerous people, who consider the country between the

parallels of latitude 60. and 65. North, and longitude 100. to

110. West, as their lands or home. They speak a copious language, which

is very difficult to be attained, and furnishes dialects to the various

emigrant tribes which inhabit the following immense track of country,

whose boundary I shall describe.[1] It begins at Churchill, and runs

along the line of separation between them and the Knisteneaux, up the

Missinipi to the Isle a la Crosse, passing on through the Buffalo Lake,

River Lake, and Portage la Loche: from thence it proceeds by the Elk

River to the Lake of the Hills, and goes directly West to the Peace

River; and up that river to its source and tributary waters; from whence

it proceeds to the waters of the river Columbia; and follows that river

to latitude 52. 24. North, and longitude 122. 54. West, where the

Chepewyans have the Atnah or Chin Nation for their neighbours. It then

takes a line due West to the seacoast, within which, the country is

possessed by a people who speak their language[2] and are consequently

descended from them: there can be no doubt, therefore, of their progress

being to the Eastward. A tribe of them is even known at the upper

establishments on the Saskatchiwine; and I do not pretend to ascertain

how far they may follow the Rocky Mountains to the East.

It is not possible to form any just estimate of their numbers, but it is

apparent, nevertheless, that they are by no means proportionate to the

vast extent of their territories, which may, in some degree, be

attributed to the ravages of the small-pox, which are, more or less,

evident throughout this part of the continent.

The notion which these people entertain of the creation, is of a very

singular nature. They believe that, at the first, the globe was one

vast and entire ocean, inhabited by no living creature, except a mighty

bird, whose eyes were fire, whose glances were lightning, and the

clapping of whose wings were thunder. On his descent to the ocean, and

touching it, the earth instantly arose, and remained on the surface of

the waters. This omnipotent bird then called forth all the variety of

animals from the earth, except the Chepewyans, who were produced from a

dog; and this circumstance occasions their aversion to the flesh of that

animal, as well as the people who eat it. This extraordinary tradition

proceeds to relate, that the great bird, having finished his work, made

an arrow, which was to be preserved with great care, and to remain

untouched; but that the Chepewyans were so devoid of understanding, as

to carry it away; and the sacrilege so enraged the great bird, that he

has never since appeared.

They have also a tradition amongst them, that they originally came from

another country, inhabited by very wicked people, and had traversed a

great lake, which was narrow, shallow, and full of islands, where they

had suffered great misery, it being always winter, with ice and deep

snow. At the Copper-Mine River, where they made the first land, the

ground was covered with copper, over which a body of earth had since

been collected, to the depth of a man's height. They believe, also,

that in ancient times their ancestors lived till their feet were worn

out with walking, and their throats with eating. They describe a

deluge, when the waters spread over the whole earth, except the highest

mountains, on the tops of which they preserved themselves.

They believe, that immediately after their death, they pass into another

world, where they arrive at a large river, on which they embark in a

stone canoe, and that a gentle current bears them on to an extensive

lake, in the centre of which is a most beautiful island; and that, in

the view of this delightful abode, they receive that judgment for their

conduct during life, which terminates their final state and unalterable

allotment. If their good actions are declared to predominate, they are

landed upon the island, where there is to be no end to-their happiness;

which, however, according to their notions, consists in an eternal

enjoyment of sensual pleasure, and carnal gratification. But if their

bad actions weigh down the balance, the stone canoe sinks at once, and

leaves them up to their chins in the water, to behold and regret the

reward enjoyed by the good, and eternally struggling, but with

unavailing endeavours, to reach the blissful island, from which they are

excluded for ever.

They have some faint notions of the transmigration of the soul; so that

if a child be born with teeth, they instantly imagine, from its

premature appearance, that it bears a resemblance to some person who had

lived to an advanced period, and that he has assumed a renovated life,

with these extraordinary tokens of maturity.

The Chepewyans are sober, timorous, and vagrant, with a selfish

disposition that has sometimes created suspicions of their integrity.

Their stature has nothing remarkable in it; but though they are seldom

corpulent, they are sometimes robust. Their complexion is swarthy;

their features coarse, and their hair lank, but always of a dingy black;

nor have they universally the piercing eye, which generally animates the

Indian countenance. The women have a more agreeable aspect than the

men, but their gait is awkward, which proceeds from their being

accustomed, nine months in the year, to travel on snow-shoes and drag

sledges of a weight from two to four hundred pounds. They are very

submissive to their husbands, who have, however, their fits of jealousy;

and, for very trifling causes, treat them with such cruelty as sometimes

to occasion their death. They are frequently objects of traffic; and

the father possesses the right of disposing of his daughter.[3] The men

in general extract their beards, though some of them are seen to prefer

a bushy black beard, to a smooth chin. They cut their hair in various

forms, or leave it in a long, natural flow, according as their caprice

or fancy suggests. The women always wear it in great length, and some

of them are very attentive to its arrangement. If they at any time

appear despoiled of their tresses, it is to be esteemed a proof of the

husband's jealousy, and is considered as a severer punishment than

manual correction. Both sexes have blue or black bars, or from one to

four straight lines on their cheeks or forehead, to distinguish the

tribe to which they belong. These marks are either tattooed, or made by

drawing a thread, dipped in the necessary colour, beneath the skin.

There are no people more attentive to the comforts of their dress, or

less anxious respecting its exterior appearance. In the winter it is

composed of the skins of deer, and their fawns, and dressed as fine as

any chamois leather, in the hair. In the summer their apparel is the

same, except that it is prepared without the hair. Their shoes and

leggins are sewed together, the latter reaching upwards to the middle,

and being supported by a belt, under which a small piece of leather is

drawn to cover the private parts, the ends of which fall down both

before and behind. In the shoes they put the hair of the moose or

reindeer with additional pieces of leather as socks. The shirt or coat,

when girted round the waist, reaches to the middle of the thigh, and the

mittens are sewed to the sleeves, or are suspended by strings from the

shoulders. A ruff or tippet surrounds the neck, and the skin of the

head of the deer forms a curious kind of cap. A robe, made of several

deer or fawn skins sewed together, covers the whole. This dress is worn

single or double, but always in the winter, with the hair within and

without. Thus arrayed a Chepewyan will lay himself down on the ice in

the middle of a lake, and repose in comfort; though he will sometimes

find a difficulty in the morning to disencumber himself from the snow

drifted on him during the night. If in his passage he should be in want

of provision, he cuts a hole in the ice, when he seldom fails of taking

some trout or pike, whose eyes he instantly scoops out, and eats as a

great delicacy; but if they should not be sufficient to satisfy his

appetite, he will, in this necessity make his meal of the fish in its

raw state; but, those whom I saw, preferred to dress their victuals when

circumstances admitted the necessary preparation. When they are in that

part of their country which does not produce a sufficient quantity of

wood for fuel, they are reduced to the same exigency, though they

generally dry their meat in the sun.[4]

The dress of the women differs from that of the men. Their leggins are

tied below the knee; and their coat or shift is wide, hanging down to

the ankle, and is tucked up at pleasure by means of a belt, which is

fastened round the waist. Those who have children have these garments

made very full about the shoulders, as when they are travelling they

carry their infants upon their backs, next their skin, in which

situation they are perfectly comfortable and in a position convenient to

be suckled. Nor do they discontinue to give their milk to them till

they have another child. Childbirth is not the object of that tender

care and serious attention among the savages as it is among civilized

people. At this period no part of their usual occupation is omitted,

and this continual and regular exercise must contribute to the welfare

of the mother, both in the progress of parturition and in the moment of

delivery. The women have a singular custom of cutting off a small piece

of the navel string of the new-born children, and hang it about their

necks: they are also curious in the covering they make for it, which

they decorate with porcupine's quills and beads.

Though the women are as much in the power of the men, as other articles

of their property, they are always consulted, and possess a very

considerable influence in the traffic with Europeans, and other

important concerns.

Plurality of wives is common among them, and the ceremony of marriage is

of a very simple nature. The girls are betrothed at a very early period

to those whom the parents think the best able to support them: nor is

the inclination of the women considered. Whenever a separation takes

place, which sometimes happens, it depends entirely on the will and

pleasure of the husband. In common with the other Indians of this

country, they have a custom respecting the periodical state of a woman,

which is rigorously observed: at that time she must seclude herself from

society. They are not even allowed in that situation to keep the same

path as the men, when travelling: and it is considered a great breach of

decency for a woman so circumstanced to touch any utensils of manly

occupation. Such a circumstance is supposed to defile them, so that

their subsequent use would be followed by certain mischief or

misfortune. There are particular skins which the women never touch, as

of the bear and wolf; and those animals the men are seldom known to

kill.

They are not remarkable for their activity as hunters, which is owing to

the ease with which they snare deer and spear fish: and these

occupations are not beyond the strength of their old men, women, and

boys: so that they participate in those laborious occupations, which

among their neighbours are confined to the women. They make war on the

Esquimaux, who cannot resist their superior numbers, and put them to

death, as it is a principle with them never to make prisoners. At the

same time they tamely submit to the Knisteneaux, who are not so numerous

as themselves, when they treat them as enemies.

They do not affect that cold reserve at meeting, either among themselves

or strangers, which is common with the Knisteneaux, but communicate

mutually, and at once, all the information of which they are possessed.

Nor are they roused like them from an apparent torpor to a state of

great activity. They are consequently more uniform in this respect,

though they are of a very persevering disposition when their interest is

concerned.

As these people are not addicted to spirituous liquors, they have a

regular and uninterrupted use of their understanding, which is always

directed to the advancement of their own interest; and this disposition,

as may be readily imagined, sometimes occasions them to be charged with

fraudulent habits. They will submit with patience to the severest

treatment, when they are conscious that they deserve it, but will never

forget or forgive any wanton or unnecessary rigour. A moderate conduct

I never found to fail, nor do I hesitate to represent them, altogether,

as the most peaceable tribe of Indians known in North America.

There are conjurers and high-priests, but I was not present at any of

their ceremonies; though they certainly operate in an extraordinary

manner on the imaginations of the people in the cure of disorders.

Their principal maladies are, rheumatic pains, the flux and consumption.

The venereal complaint is very common; but though its progress is slow,

it gradually undermines the constitution, and brings on premature decay.

They have recourse to superstition for their cure, and charms are their

only remedies, except the bark of the willow, which being burned and

reduced to powder, is strewed upon green wounds and ulcers, and places

contrived for promoting perspiration. Of the use of simples and plants

they have no knowledge; nor can it be expected, as their country does

not produce them.

Though they have enjoyed so long an intercourse with Europeans, their

country is so barren, as not to be capable of producing the ordinary

necessaries naturally introduced by such a communication and they

continue, in a great measure, their own inconvenient and awkward modes

of taking their game and preparing it when taken. Sometimes they drive

the deer into the small lakes, where they spear them, or force them into

inclosures, where the bow and arrow are employed against them. These

animals are also taken in snares made of skin. In the former instance

the game is divided among those who have been engaged in the pursuit of

it. In the latter it is considered as private property; nevertheless,

any unsuccessful hunter passing by, may take a deer so caught, leaving

the head, skin, and saddle for the owner. Thus, though they have no

regular government, as every man is lord in his own family, they are

influenced, more or less, by certain principles which condone to their

general benefit.

In their quarrels with each other, they very rarely proceed to a greater

degree of violence than is occasioned by blows, wrestling, and pulling

of the hair, while their abusive language consists in applying the name

of the most offensive animal to the object of their displeasure, and

adding the term ugly, and chiay, or still-born.[5]

Their arms and domestic apparatus, in addition to the articles procured

from Europeans, are spears, bows, and arrows, fishing nets, and lines

made of green deer-skin thongs. They have also nets for taking the

beaver as he endeavours to escape from his lodge when it is broken open.

It is set in a particular manner for the purpose, and a man is employed

to watch the moment when he enters the snare, or he would soon cut his

way through it. He is then thrown upon the ice where he remains as if

he had no life in him.

The snow-shoes are of a very superior workmanship. The inner part of

their frame is straight, the outer one is curved, and it is pointed at

both ends, with that in front turned up. They are also laced with great

neatness with thongs made of deer-skin. The sledges are formed of thin

slips of board turned up also in front, and are highly polished with

crooked knives, in order to slide along with facility. Close-grained

wood is, on that account, the best; but theirs are made of the red or

swamp spruce-fir tree.

The country, which these people claim as their land, has a very small

quantity of earth, and produces little or no wood or herbage. Its chief

vegetable substance is the moss, on which the deer feed; and a kind of

rock moss, which, in times of scarcity, preserves the lives of the

natives. When boiled in water, it dissolves into a clammy, glutinous

substance, that affords a very sufficient nourishment. But,

notwithstanding the barren state of their country, with proper care and

economy, these people might live in great comfort, for the lakes abound

in fish, and the hills are covered with deer. Though, of all the Indian

people of this continent they are considered as the most provident, they

suffer severely at certain seasons, and particularly in the dead of

winter, when they are under the necessity of retiring to their scanty,

stinted woods. To the Westward of them the musk-ox may be found, but

they have no dependence on it as an article of sustenance. There are

also large hares, a few white wolves, peculiar to their country, and

several kinds of foxes, with white and grey partridges, etc. The beaver

and moose-deer they do not find till they come within 60 degrees North

latitude; and the buffalo is still further South. That animal is known

to frequent an higher latitude to the Westward of their country. These

people bring pieces of beautiful variegated marble, which are found on

the surface of the earth. It is easily worked, bears a fine polish, and

hardens with time; it endures heat, and is manufactured into pipes or

calumets, as they are very fond of smoking tobacco; a luxury which the

Europeans communicated to them.

Their amusements or recreations are but few. Their music is so

inharmonious, and their dancing so awkward, that they might be supposed

to be ashamed of both, as they very seldom practise either. They also

shoot at marks, and play at the games common among them; but in fact

they prefer sleeping to either; and the greater part of their time is

passed in procuring food, and resting from the toil necessary to obtain

it. They are also of a querulous disposition, and are continually

making complaints; which they express by a constant repetition of the

word eduiy, "it is hard," in a whining and plaintive tone of voice.

They are superstitious in the extreme, and almost every action of their

lives, however trivial, is more or less influenced by some whimsical

notion. I never observed that they had any particular form of religious

worship; but as they believe in a good and evil spirit, and a state of

future rewards and punishments, they cannot be devoid of religious

impressions. At the same time they manifest a decided unwillingness to

make any communications on the subject.

The Chepewyans have been accused of abandoning their aged and infirm

people to perish, and of not burying their dead; but these are

melancholy necessities, which proceed from their wandering way of life.

They are by no means universal, for it is within my knowledge, that a

man, rendered helpless by the palsy, was carried about for many years,

with the greatest tenderness and attention, till he died a natural

death. That they should not bury their dead in their own country,

cannot be imputed to them as a custom arising from a savage

insensibility, as they inhabit such high latitudes that the ground never

thaws; but it is well known, that when they are in the woods, they cover

their dead with trees. Besides, they manifest no common respect to the

memory of their departed friends, by a long period of mourning, cutting

off their hair, and never making use of the property of the deceased.

Nay, they frequently destroy or sacrifice their own, as a token of

regret and sorrow.

If there be any people who, from the barren state of their country,

might be supposed to be cannibals by nature, these people, from the

difficulty they, at times, experience in procuring food, might be liable

to that imputation. But, in all my knowledge of them, I never was

acquainted with one instance of that disposition; nor among all the

natives which I met with in a route of five thousand miles, did I see or

hear of an example of cannibalism, but such as arose from that

irresistible necessity, which has been known to impel even the most

civilized people to eat each other.

EXAMPLES OF THE CHEPEWYAN TONGUE

Man Dinnie.

Woman Chequois.

Young man Quelaquis.

Young woman Quelaquis chequoi.

My son Zi azay.

My daughter Zi lengai.

My husband Zi dinnie.

My wife Zi zayunai.

My brother Zi raing.

My father Zi tah.

My mother Zi nah.

My grandfather Zi unai.

Me, or my See.

I Ne.

You Nun.

They Be.

Head Edthie.

Hand Law.

Leg Edthen.

Foot Cuh.

Eyes Nackhay.

Teeth Goo.

Side Kac-hey.

Belly Bitt.

Tongue Edthu.

Hair Thiegah.

Back Losseh.

Blood Dell.

The Knee Cha-gutt.

Clothes or Blanket Etlunay.

Coat Eeh.

Leggin Thell.

Shoes Kinchee.

Robe or Blanket Thuth.

Sleeves Bah.

Mittens Geese.

Cap Sah.

Swan Kagouce.

Duck Keth.

Goose Gah.

White partridge Cass bah.

Grey partridge Deyee.

Buffalo Giddy.

Moose deer Dinyai.

Rein deer Edthun.

Beaver Zah.

Bear Zass.

Otter Gaby-ai.

Martin Thah.

Wolverine Naguiyai.

Wolf Yess (Nouhoay).

Fox Naguethey.

Hare Cah.

Dog Sliengh.

Beaver-skin Zah thah.

Otter skin Naby-ai thith.

Moose-skin Deny-ai thith.

Fat Icah.

Grease Thless.

Meet Bid.

Pike Uldiah.

White-fish Slouey.

Trout Slouey zinai.

Pickerel G'Gah.

Fish-hook Ge-eth.

Fish-line Clulez.

One Slachy.

Two Naghur.

Three Tagh-y.

Four Dengk-y.

Five Sasoulachee.

Six Alki tar-hy-y.

Seven

Eight Alki deing-hy.

Nine Cakina hanoth-na.

Ten Ca noth na.

Twenty Na ghur cha noth na.

Fire Coun.

Water Toue.

Wood Dethkin.

Ice Thun.

Snow Yath.

Rain Thinnelsee.

Lake Touey.

River Tesse.

Mountain Zeth.

Stone Thaih.

Berries Gui-eh.

Hot Edowh.

Cold Edzah.

Island Nouey.

Gun Telkithy,

Powder Telkithy counna.

Knife Bess.

Axe Thynle.

Sun

Moon Sah.

Red Deli couse.

Black Dell zin.

Trade, or barter Na-houn-ny.

Good Leyzong.

Not good Leyzong houlley.

Stinking Geddey.

Bad, ugly Slieney.

Long since Galladinna.

Now, today Ganneh.

Tomorrow Gambeh.

By-and-bye, or presently Garehoulleh.

House, or lodge Cooen.

Canoe Shaluzee.

Door The o ball.

Leather-lodge N'abalay.

Chief Buchahudry.

Mine Zidzy.

His Bedzy.

Yours Nuntzy.

Large Unshaw.

Small, or little Chautah,

I love you Ba eioinichdinh.

I hate you Bucnoinichadinh hillay.

I am to be pitied Est-chounest-hinay.

My relation Sy lod, innay.

Give me water Too hanniltu.

Give me meat Beds-hanniltu.

Give me fish Sloeeh anneltu.

Give me meat to eat Bid Barheether.

Give me water to drink To Barhithen.

It is far off Netha uzany,

Is it not far Nilduay uzany.

It is near Nitha-hillai.

How many Nilduay.

What call you him, or that Etlaneldey.

Come here Etla houllia

Pain, or suffering Yeu dessay.

It's hard I-yah.

You lie Untzee.

What then Eldaw-gueh.

[1] Those of them who come to trade with us, do not exceed eight hundred

men, and have a smattering of the Knisteneau tongue, in which they carry

on their dealings with us.

[2] The coast is inhabited on the North-West by the Eskimaux, and on the

Pacific Ocean by a people different from both.

[3] They do not, however, sell them as slaves, but as companions to

those who are supposed to live more comfortably than themselves.

[4] The provision called pemmican, on which the Chepewyans, as well as

the other savages of this country, chiefly subsist in their journeys, is

prepared in the following manner: The lean parts of the flesh of the

larger animals are cut in thin slices, and are placed on a wooden grate

over a slow fire, or exposed to the sun, and sometimes to the frost.

These operations dry it, and in that state it is pounded between two

stones; it will then keep with care for several years. If, however, it

is kept in large quantities, it is disposed to ferment in the spring of

the year, when it must be exposed to the air, or it will soon decay.

The inside fat, and that of the rump, which is much thicker in these

wild than our domestic animals, is melted down and mixed, in a boiling

state with the pounded meat, in equal proportions: it is then put in

baskets or bags for the convenience of carrying it. Thus it becomes a

nutritious food, and is eaten, without any further preparation, or the

addition of spice, salt, or any vegetable or farinaceous substance. A

little time reconciles it to the palate. There is another sort made

with the addition of marrow and dried berries, which is of a superior

quality.

[5] This name is also applicable to the foetus of an animal, when

killed, which is considered as one of the greatest delicacies.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE, &c.

CHAPTER I.

JUNE, 1789.

_Wednesday, 3._--We embarked at nine in the morning, at

Fort Chepewyan, on the South side of the Lake of the Hills, in latitude

58. 40. North, and longitude 110. 30. West from Greenwich, and compass

has sixteen degrees variation East, in a canoe made of birch bark. The

crew consisted of four Canadians, two of whom were attended by their

wives, and a German; we were accompanied also by an Indian, who had

acquired the title of English Chief, and his two wives, in a small

canoe, with two young Indians; his followers in another small canoe.

These men were engaged to serve us in the twofold capacity of

interpreters and hunters. This chief has been a principal leader of his

countrymen who were in the habit of carrying furs to Churchill Factory,

Hudson's Bay, and till of late very much attached to the interest of

that company. These circumstances procured him the appellation of the

English Chief.

We were also accompanied by a canoe that I had equipped for the purpose

of trade, and given the charge of it to M. Le Roux, one of the Company's

clerks. In this I was obliged to ship part of our provision; which,

with the clothing necessary for us on the voyage, a proper assortment of

the articles of merchandise as presents, to ensure us a friendly

reception among the Indians, and the ammunition and arms requisite for

defence, as well as a supply for our hunters, were more than our own

canoe could carry, but by the time we should part company, there was

every reason to suppose that our expenditure would make sufficient room

for the whole.

We proceeded twenty-one miles to the West, and then took a course of

nine miles to North-North-West, when we entered the river, or one of the

branches of the lake, of which there are several. We then steered North

five miles, when our course changed for two miles to North-North-East,

and here at seven in the evening we landed and pitched our tents. One

of the hunters killed a goose, and a couple of ducks: at the same time

the canoe was taken out of the water, to be gummed, which necessary

business was effectually performed.

_Thursday, 4._--We embarked at four this morning, and proceeded

North-North-East half a mile, North one mile and a half, West two miles,

North-West two miles, West-North-West one mile and a half,

North-North-West half a mile, and West-North-West two miles, when this

branch loses itself in the Peace River. It is remarkable, that the

currents of these various branches of the lake, when the Peace River is

high, as in May and August, run into the lake, which, in the other

months of the year returns its waters to them; whence, to this place,

the branch is not more than two hundred yards wide, nor less than an

hundred and twenty. The banks are rather low, except in one place,

where an huge rock rises above them, The low land is covered with wood,

such as white birch, pines of different kinds, with the poplar, three

kinds of willow, and the liard.

The Peace River is upwards of a mile broad at this spot, and its current

is stronger than that of the channel which communicates with the lake.

It here, indeed, assumes the name of the Slave River.[1] The course of

this day was as follows:--North-West two miles, North-North-West,

through islands, six miles, North four miles and a half, North by East

two miles, West by North six miles, North one mile, North-East by East

two miles, North one mile. We now descended a rapid, and proceeded

North-West seven miles and a half, North-West nine miles, North by West

six miles, North-West by West one mile and a half, North-West by North

half a mile, North-North-West six miles, North one mile, North-West by

West four miles, North-North-East one mile. Here we arrived at the

mouth of the Dog River, where we landed, and unloaded our canoes, at

half past seven in the evening, on the East side, and close by the

rapids. At this station the river is near two leagues in breadth.

_Friday, 5._--At three o'clock in the morning we embarked, but

unloaded our canoes at the first rapid. When we had reloaded, we

entered a small channel, which is formed by the islands, and, in about

half an hour, we came to the carrying-place It is three hundred and

eighty paces in length, and very commodious, except at the further end

of it. We found some difficulty in reloading at this spot, from the

large quantity of ice which had not yet thawed. From hence to the next

carrying-place, called the _Portage d'Embarras_, is about six miles, and

is occasioned by the drift wood filling up the small channel, which is

one thousand and twenty paces in length; from hence to the next is one

mile and a half, while the distance to that which succeeds, does not

exceed one hundred and fifty yards. It is about the same length as the

last; and from hence to the carrying-place called the Mountain, is about

four miles further; when we entered the great river. The smaller one,

or the channel, affords by far the best passage, as it is without hazard

of any kind; though I believe a shorter course would be found on the

outside of the islands, and without so many carrying-places. That

called the Mountain is three hundred and thirty-five paces in length;

from thence to the next, named the Pelican, there is about a mile of

dangerous rapids. The landing is very steep, and close to the fall.

The length of this carrying-place is eight hundred and twenty paces.

The whole of the party were now employed in taking the baggage and the

canoe up the hill. One of the Indian canoes went down the fall, and was

dashed to pieces. The woman who had the management of it, by quitting

it in time, preserved her life, though she lost the little property it

contained.

The course from the place we quitted in the morning is about North-West,

and comprehends a distance of fifteen miles. From hence to the next and

last carrying-place, is about nine miles; in which distance there are

three rapids: course North-West by West. The carrying path is very bad,

and five hundred and thirty-five paces in length. Our canoes being

lightened, passed on the outside of the opposite island, which rendered

the carrying of the baggage very short indeed, being not more than the

length of a canoe. In the year 1786, five men were drowned, and two

canoes and some packages lost, in the rapids on the other side of the

river, which occasioned this place to be called the _Portage des Noyes_.

They were proceeding to the Slave Lake, in the fall of that year, under

the direction of Mr. Cuthbert Grant. We proceeded from hence six miles,

and encamped on Point de Roche, at half past five in the afternoon. The

men and Indians were very much fatigued; but the hunters had provided

seven geese, a beaver, and four ducks.

_Saturday, 6._--We embarked at half past two in the morning, and

steered North-West by North twenty-one miles, North-West by West five

miles, West-North-West four miles, West six miles, doubled a point

North-North-East one mile, East five miles, North two miles, North-West

by North one mile and a half, West-North-West three miles, North-East by

East two miles; doubled a point one mile and a half, West by North nine

miles, North-West by West six miles, North-North-West five miles; here

we landed at six o'clock in the evening, unloaded, and encamped. Nets

were also set in a small adjacent river. We had an head wind during the

greater part of the day and the weather was become so cold that the

Indians were obliged to make use of their mittens. In this day's

progress we killed seven geese and six ducks.

_Sunday, 7._--At half past three we renewed our voyage, and proceeded

West-North-West one mile, round an island one mile, North-West two miles

and a half, South by West three miles, West-South-West one mile,

South-West by South half a mile, North-West three miles, West-North-West

three miles and a half, North seven miles and a half, North-West by

North four miles, North two miles and a half, North-West by North two

miles. The rain, which had prevailed for some time, now came on with

such violence, that we were obliged to land and unload, to prevent the

goods and baggage from getting wet; the weather, however, soon cleared

up, so that we reloaded the canoe, and got under way. We now continued

our course North ten miles, West one mile and a half, and North one mile

and a half, when the rain came on again, and rendered it absolutely

necessary for us to get on shore for the night, at about half past

three. We had a strong North-North-East wind throughout the day, which

greatly impeded us; M. Le Roux, however, with his party, passed on in

search of a landing place more agreeable to them. The Indians killed a

couple of geese, and as many ducks. The rain continued through the

remaining part of the day.

_Monday, 8._--The night was very boisterous, and the rain did not

cease till two in the afternoon of this day; but as the wind did not

abate of its violence, we were prevented from proceeding till the

morrow.

_Tuesday, 9._--We embarked at half past two in the morning, the

weather being calm and foggy. Soon after our two young men joined us,

whom we had not seen for two days; but during their absence they had

killed four beavers and ten geese. After a course of one mile

North-West by North, we observed an opening on the right, which we took

for a fork of the river, but it proved to be a lake. We returned and

steered South-West by West one mile and a half, West-South-West one mile

and a half, West one mile, when we entered a very small branch of the

river on the East bank; at the mouth of which I was informed there had

been a carrying-place, owing to the quantity of drift wood, which then

filled up the passage, but has since been carried away. The course of

this river is meandering, and tends to the North, and in about ten miles

falls into the Slave Lake, where we arrived at nine in the morning, when

we found a great change in the weather, as it was become extremely cold.

The lake was entirely covered with ice, and did not seem in any degree

to have given way, but near the shore. The gnats and mosquitoes, which

were very troublesome during our passage along the river, did not

venture to accompany us to this colder region.

The banks of the river both above and below the rapids, were on both

sides covered with the various kinds of wood common to this country,

particularly the Western side; the land being lower and consisting of a

rich black soil. This artificial ground is carried down by the stream,

and rests upon drift wood, so as to be eight or ten feet deep. The

eastern banks are more elevated, and the soil a yellow clay mixed with

gravel; so that the trees are neither so large or numerous as on the

opposite shore. The ground was not thawed above fourteen inches in

depth; notwithstanding the leaf was at its full growth; while along the

lake there was scarcely any appearance of verdure.

The Indians informed me, that, at a very small distance from either bank

of the river, are very extensive plains, frequented by large herds of

buffaloes; while the moose and rein-deer keep in the woods that border

on it. The beavers, which are in great numbers, build their habitations

in the small lakes and rivers, as, in the larger streams, the ice

carries every thing along with it, during the spring. The mud-banks in

the river are covered with wild fowl; and we this morning killed two

swans, ten geese, and one beaver, without suffering the delay of an

hour; so that we might have soon filled the canoe with them, if that had

been our object.

From the small river we steered East, along the inside of a long

sand-bank, covered with drift wood and enlivened by a few willows, which

stretches on as far as the houses erected by Messrs. Grant and Le Roux,

in 1786. We often ran aground, as for five successive miles the depth

of the water nowhere exceeded three feet. There we found our people,

who had arrived early in the morning, and whom we had not seen since the

preceding Sunday. We now unloaded the canoe, and pitched our tents, as

there was every appearance that we should be obliged to remain here for

some time. I then ordered the nets to be set, as it was absolutely

necessary that the stores provided for our future voyage should remain

untouched. The fish we now caught were carp, poisson inconnu, white

fish, and trout.

_Wednesday, 10._--It rained during the greatest part of the preceding

night, and the weather did not clear up till the afternoon of this day.

This circumstance had very much weakened the ice, and I sent two of the

Indians on an hunting party to a lake at the distance of nine miles,

which, they informed me, was frequented by animals of various kinds.

Our fishery this day was not so abundant as it had been on the preceding

afternoon.

_Thursday, 11._--The weather was fine and clear with a strong westerly

wind. The women were employed in gathering berries of different sorts,

of which there are a great plenty; and I accompanied one of my people to

a small adjacent island, where we picked up some dozens of swan, geese,

and duck-eggs; we also killed a couple of ducks and a goose.

In the evening the Indians returned, without having seen any of the

larger animals. A swan and a grey crane were the only fruits of their

expedition. We caught no other fish but a small quantity of pike, which

is too common to be a favourite food with the people of the country, The

ice moved a little to the eastward.

_Friday, 12._--The weather continued the same as yesterday, and the

mosquitoes began to visit us in great numbers. The ice moved again in

the same direction, and I ascended an hill, but could not perceive that

it was broken in the middle of the lake. The hunters killed a goose and

three ducks.

_Saturday, 13._--The weather was cloudy, and the wind changeable

till about sunset, when it settled in the North. It drove back the ice

which was now very much broken along the shore, and covered our nets.

One of the hunters who had been at the Slave River the preceding

evening, returned with three beavers and fourteen geese. He was

accompanied by three families of Indians, who left Athabasca the same

day as myself: they did not bring me any fowl; and they pleaded in

excuse, that they had travelled with so much expedition, as to prevent

them from procuring sufficient provisions for themselves. By a meridian

line, I found the variation of the compass to be about twenty degrees

East.

_Sunday, 14._--The weather was clear and the wind remained in the same

quarter. The ice was much broken, and driven to the side of the lake,

so that we were apprehensive for the loss of our nets, as they could

not, at present, be extricated. At sunset there was an appearance of a

violent gust of wind from the southward, as the sky became on a sudden,

in that quarter, of a very dusky blue colour, and the lightning was very

frequent. But instead of wind there came on a very heavy rain, which

promised to diminish the quantity of broken ice.

_Monday, 15._--In the morning, the bay still continued to be so full

of ice, that we could not get at our nets. About noon, the wind veered

to the Westward, and not only uncovered the nets, but cleared a passage

to the opposite islands. When we raised the nets we found them very

much shattered, and but few fish taken. We now struck our tents, and

embarked at sunset, when we made the traverse, which was about eight

miles North-East by North, in about two hours. At half-past eleven

P. M. we landed on a small island and proceeded to gum the canoe. At

this time the atmosphere was sufficiently clear to admit of reading or

writing without the aid of artificial light. We had not seen a star

since the second day after we left Athabasca. About twelve o'clock, the

moon made its appearance above the tops of the trees, the lower horn

being in a state of eclipse, which continued for about six minutes, in a

cloudless sky.

I took soundings three times in the course of the traverse, when I found

six fathoms water, with a muddy bottom.

_Tuesday, 16._--We were prevented from embarking this morning by

a very strong wind from the North, and the vast quantity of floating

ice. Some trout were caught with the hook and line, but the net was not

so successful. I had an observation which gave 61. 28. North latitude.

The wind becoming moderate, we embarked about one, taking a North-West

course, through islands of ten miles, in which we took in a considerable

quantity of water. After making several traverses, we landed at five

P. M., and having pitched our tents, the hooks, lines, and nets were

immediately set. During the course of the day there was occasional

thunder.

_Wednesday, 17._--We proceeded, and taking up our nets as we passed,

we found no more than seventeen fish, and were stopped within a mile by

the ice. The Indians, however, brought us back to a point where our

fishery was very successful. They proceeded also on a hunting party, as

well as to discover a passage among the islands; but at three in the

afternoon they returned without having succeeded in either object. We

were, however, in expectation, that, as the wind blew very strong, it

would force a passage. About sunset, the weather became overcast, with

thunder, lightning, and rain.

_Thursday, 18._--The nets were taken up at four this morning with

abundance of fish, and we steered North-West four miles, where the ice

again prevented our progress. A South-East wind drove it among the

islands, in such a manner as to impede our passage, and we could

perceive at some distance ahead, that it was but little broken. We now

set our nets in four fathom water. Two of our hunters had killed a

rein-deer and its fawn. They had met with two Indian families, and in

the evening, a man belonging to one of them, paid us a visit; he

informed me, that the ice had not, stirred on the side of the island

opposite to us. These people live entirely on fish, and were waiting to

cross the lake as soon as it should be clear of ice.

_Friday, 19._--This morning our nets were unproductive, as they

yielded us no more than six fish, which were of a very bad kind. In the

forenoon, the Indians proceeded to the large island opposite to us, in

search of game. The weather was cloudy, and the wind changeable; at the

same time, we were pestered by mosquitoes, though, in a great measure,

surrounded with ice.

_Saturday, 20._--We took up our nets, but without any fish. It rained

very hard during the night and this morning: nevertheless, M. Le Roux

and his people went back to the point which we had quitted on the 18th,

but I did not think it prudent to move. As I was watching for a passage

through the ice, I promised to send for them when I could obtain it. It

rained at intervals till about five o'clock; when we loaded our canoe,

and steered for the large island, West six miles. When we came to the

point of it, we found a great quantity of ice; we, however, set our

nets, and soon caught plenty of fish. In our way thither we met our

hunters, but they had taken nothing. I took soundings at an hundred

yards from the island, when we were in twenty-one fathom water. Here we

found abundance of cranberries and small spring onions. I now

despatched two men for M. Le Roux, and his people.

_Sunday, 21._--A Southerly wind blew through the night, and drove the

ice to the Northward. The two men whom I had sent to M. Le Roux,

returned at eight this morning; they parted with him at a small distance

from us, but the wind blew so hard, that he was obliged to put to shore.

Having a glimpse of the sun, when it was twelve by my watch, I found the

latitude 61. 34. North latitude. At two in the afternoon, M. Le Roux and

his people arrived. At five, the ice being almost all driven past to

the Northward, we accordingly embarked, and steered West fifteen miles,

through much broken ice, and on the outside of the islands, though it

appeared to be very solid to the North-East. I sounded three times in

this distance, and found it seventy-five, forty-four, and sixty fathom

water. We pitched our tents on one of a cluster of small islands that

were within three miles of the main land, which we could not reach in

consequence of the ice.

We saw some rein-deer on one of these islands, and our hunters went in

pursuit of them, when they killed five large and two small ones, which

was easily accomplished, as the animals had no shelter to which they

could run for protection. They had, without doubt, crossed the ice to

this spot, and the thaw coming on had detained them there, and made them

an easy prey to the pursuer. This island was accordingly named Isle de

Carreboeuf.

I sat up the whole of this night to observe the setting and rising of

the sun. That orb was beneath the horizon four hours twenty-two

minutes, and rose North 20. East by compass. It, however, froze so

hard, that, during the sun's disappearance, the water was covered with

ice half a quarter of an inch thick.

_Monday, 22._--We embarked at half past three in the morning, and

rounding the outside of the islands, steered North-West thirteen miles

along the ice, edging in for the main land, the wind West, then West two

miles; but it blew so hard as to oblige us to land on an island at half

past nine, from whence we could just distinguish land to the South-East,

at the distance of about twelve leagues; though we could not determine

whether it was a continuation of the islands, or the shores of the

lake.[2] I took an observation at noon, which gave me 61. 53. North,

the variation of the compass being, at the same time, about two points.

M. Le Roux's people having provided two bags of _pemmican_.[3] to be

left in the island against their return; it was called _Isle a la

Cache_.

The wind being moderated, we proceeded again at half past two in the

afternoon, and steering West by North among the islands, made as course

of eighteen miles. We encamped at eight o'clock on a small island, and

since eight in the morning had not passed any ice. Though the weather

was far from being warm, we were tormented, and our rest interrupted, by

the host of mosquitoes that accompanied us.

[1] The Slave Indians, having been driven from their original country by

their enemies, the Knisteneaux, along the borders of this part of the

river, it received that title, though it by no means involves the idea

of servitude, but was given to these fugitives as a term of reproach,

that denoted more than common savageness.

[2] Sometimes the land looms, so that there may be a great deception as

to the distance; and I think this was the case at present.

[3] Flesh dried in the sun, and afterwards pounded for the convenience

of carriage.