We anchored between the islands, and remained one day; I landed on two

of them, and found a very fine and agreeable harbour. I walked about a

league inland, through very thick woods, and caught some rabbits, which

are in great quantities, some birds, and a lizard as large as my thigh,

of a grey and dead-leaf[50] colour. The island is very flat and level,

and all the others the same; we also landed on another, which was not

so agreeable; but we brought away some very good fruits, and there were

such quantities of birds, that at our landing there rose so great a

number, that for more than two hours after the air was filled with

them: and there were others, which could not fly, so that we took them

pretty easily; these are of the size of a goose, the head very large,

the beak very wide, low on their legs, the feet like those of a water

hen. When these birds are plucked, there is not more flesh on them than

on a dove, and it has a very bad taste. We raised the anchor the same

day, towards evening, with a very fair wind, and the next day, about

three o'clock in the afternoon, we arrived at a place called "La

Sonde,"[51] a very dangerous place, as for more than five leagues there

are only shallows, with the exception of ...[52] leagues in length, and

three in width; when we were in the middle of the said channel, we lay

to, and the sailors cast out their lines to catch fish, of which they

took so large a quantity, that they could not find room enough for them

on board the ships. This fish is of the size of a dorade,[53] of a red

colour, and very good if eaten fresh, for it will not keep, or salt,

but becomes putrid shortly. The lead must be always in hand in passing

through this channel; on leaving which, one of our pataches was lost at

sea, without our knowing the cause; the soldiers and mariners saved

themselves by swimming, some on planks, others on oars, others as they

best could, and returned from more than two ...[54] to our ship, which

they met with very _a propos_, and we picked them up in our boats which

were sent out for them.

[50] Feuille-morte, whence "phillemoti," brownish.

[51] A difficult channel, called by the Spaniards the "Sound of

Mexico," abounding in fish, especially Dorades.

"We pursued our route till we arrived at a place which the

Spaniards call the Sound of Mexico, for in that place we often

cast the sound.... During this time we took great diversion in

fishing, particularly dorades, on which we made great

cheer."--Gage's _Voyage to Mexico in 1625_, from French

translation by the Sieur de Beaulieu, Hues O'Neil: 2 vols.,

Paris, 1676.

[52] Hiatus in MS.

[53] Sparus aurata (Linn.), Brame de Mer--the Bahama dorade is

called "porgy."

[54] Hiatus in MS.

Eight days afterwards, we arrived at St. Jean de Luz,[55] which is the

first port of New Spain, where the galleons of the king of Spain go

every year to be laden with gold, silver, precious stones, and

cochineal, to take to Spain.

[55] The fort or castle of San Juan d'Ulloa is evidently meant,

but whether it bore that name when Champlain was there, or

whether he confounded the St. Jean de Luz of Spain with San Juan

d'Ulloa, is a moot point. In Mercator and Hondius's maps,

Amsterdam, 10th edition, 1628, St. Juan d'_Uloa_ (Ulloa) is

placed on the twenty-sixth degree of north latitude, at the mouth

of the river "Lama" (Rio del Norte). The town of Villa Rica, is

laid down in the actual position of Vera Cruz, but no mention of

either St. Juan de Luz, or d'Ulloa; and in Gage's _Voyage with

the Spanish Fleet to the West Indies and Mexico_, 1625, it is

styled Sn Juan d'Ulhua, otherwise Vera Cruz.

"The proper name of the town is Sn Juan d'Ulhua, otherwise Vera

Cruz, from the old harbour of Vera Cruz, which is six leagues

from it. But the harbour of the old Vera Cruz being found too

dangerous for ships, on account of the violence of the north

wind, it was entirely abandoned by the Spaniards, who went to St.

Juan d'Ulhua, where their vessels found a safe anchorage by means

of a rock which serves as a strong defence against the winds; and

in order to perpetuate the memory of this happy adventure,

chancing on a Good Friday, to the name of St. Juan d'Ulhua they

added that of the True Cross, taken from the first harbour, which

was discovered on the Holy Friday of the year 1519."--Gage's

_Voyage to Mexico_, etc., 1625.

The said port of St. Jean de Luz is fully four hundred leagues from

Porto-rico. On the island, there is a very good fortress, as well by

its situation, as by its good ramparts, well furnished with all that is

necessary; and there are two hundred soldiers in the garrison, which

are enough for the place. This fortress comprises all the island, which

is six hundred paces long, and two hundred and fifty paces wide;

besides which fortress there are houses built on piles in the water;

and for more than six leagues at sea, there are only shallows, which

cause that ships cannot enter this port, if they do not well know the

entrance of the channel, for which entrance you must steer to the

south-west; but it is certainly the most dangerous port that can be

found, and there is no shelter, excepting on the north side of the

fortress; in the walls of the fort are numerous rings of bronze, where

the vessels are moored, which are sometimes so crowded together, that

when it blows from the north, which is very dangerous, the said vessels

are much crushed, although they are moored fore and aft.[56]

[56] "The boats towed our ships, one after the other, through the

midst of the sunken rocks, which makes this port one of the most

dangerous that I have seen in all my voyages in the north or

south seas.... We cast our anchors in the haven, but as they were

not sufficient to assure our vessels in so dangerous a port, we

added the assistance of many cables, which were fastened to great

rings of iron, fixed expressly in the walls of the castle to

guarantee ships thereby from the violence of the north

wind."--Gage's _Voyage_.

The said port is only two hundred paces in width, and two hundred and

fifty in length. The place is only kept for the convenience of the

galleons which come, as it has been said, from Spain, to load with the

merchandise, and gold and silver, which are drawn from New Spain.

On the other side of the castle, and about two thousand paces from it,

on terra firma, there is a small, but very trading town, called

Bouteron. At four leagues from the said Bouteron, there is also another

town, named Vera-Crux, which is in a very fine situation, and two

leagues from the sea.

Fifteen days after our arrival at the said St. Jean de Luz, I went,

with the permission of our admiral, to "Mechique" (Mexico), distant

from that place one hundred leagues, always going inland.

It is impossible to see or desire a more beautiful country than this

kingdom of New Spain, which is three hundred leagues in length, and two

hundred in breadth.

Making this journey to "Mechique," I admired the fine forests, filled

with the most beautiful trees that one could wish to see, such as

palms, cedars, laurel, orange, and lemon trees. Palmistes, gouiave,

accoiates,[57] good Bresil,[58] and Campesche wood, which are all trees

common to the country, with an infinity of other kinds, that I cannot

recite on account of their diversity, and which give such contentment

to the sight, with the quantities of birds of divers plumage, which are

seen in the forests, that it is not possible to feel more. Next are met

large level plains as far as the eye can see, with immense flocks of

cattle, such as horses, mules, oxen, cows, sheep, and goats, which have

pastures always fresh in every season, there being no winter, but an

air very temperate, neither hot nor cold. It only rains twice in the

year, but the dews are so heavy at night that the plants are

sufficiently watered and nourished. Besides that, the whole of the

country is ornamented with very fine rivers and streams, which traverse

almost the whole of the kingdom, and which, for the greater part, are

navigable for boats.

[57] See forward, pages 28 and 29.

[58] Brazil, or Bresil wood--Caesalpinia. Two species of Brazil

wood are used in dyeing, Caes. Echinata (Lamarck), and Caes. Sappan

(Linn.) The first is the Brazil wood, or Bresillet, of

Pernambuco, a large tree growing naturally in South America, used

in commerce for red dye. The second is indigenous in India, where

it is used for the same purpose, and known in the trade as sappan

wood; in France, "Bresellet des Indes."

The origin of the name "Brazil," or "Bresil," for this wood, was

long a moot point, whether the country took its name from the

tree, or the tree from the country. Many early writers (and some

modern) have thought that it was derived from the country. The

Sieur de Rochefort, in his "_Histoire Naturelle et Morale des

Antilles d'Amerique_" (Rotterdam, 1658), says: "Le bois de Bresil

est ainsi nomme a cause que le premier qui a este veu en Europe,

avoit este apporte de la Province du Bresil, ou il croist en plus

grande abondance qu'en aucun endroit de l'Amerique"; and Savary,

in his _Dictionnaire du Commerce_, writes: "C'est un bois dont on

se sert pour teindre en rouge, et qui est ainsi nomme puisqu'il

est d'abord venu du Bresil, province de l'Amerique." I could cite

more modern authorities, written and oral, for within the last

month I heard the derivation of the country asserted by a

gentleman of no slight pretensions to learning.

Unfortunately for the above theory, the names "Bresil" and

"Bresillet" are mentioned in an "ordonnance" of John, king of

France, dated London, 16th September, 1358. "Nous avons entendu

plusieurs marchants, Lombards et autres, qui ont trait, ou faict

traire hors du dict Royaume,--guerdes, garances, '_Bresils_,

et autres teintures.'"

Again, in the _Reglements pour le Mestier de Draperie de la

Ville de Troyes_, 360: "Nous avons ordene, et ordenons que

dores-en-avant, aucune teintures ne puisse ou doie taindre draps

au laines en ycelle Ville de Troies, mais que de garde, de

garance, de _Bresil_, et d'autres meilleures taintures," etc.

Also in the _Statuts et Reglements pour les Drapiers de la Ville

de Rouen_, 4th December and 5th January, 1378, _Bresil_ is

mentioned, and it is to be found in _Ordonnances_ of the years

1368, 1398, and 1400. In the very ancient MS. statutes of the

town of Abbeville, _Bresil_ is named: "Que a Selle neuve, ne sait

mis en oeuvre basenne _Bresille_." Finally, Muratori, in his

_Antiq. Ital. Med. Aevi_, vol. ii, cites a charter of the year

1193, in which "Brazil" appears. "Scilicet de omnibus drappis de

batilicio, de lume zucarina, de _Brasile_," etc.

The antiquity of the name is thus clearly shown, the origin is

most probably "brasa," red, flame-colour, incandescent.

We have the quaint authority of Barros as to the origin of the

name of the country, Brazil. "This country had at first the name

of Santa Croce, Holy Cross, on account of that which was raised

there; but the demon, who loses by this standard of the cross the

empire which he had over us, and which had been taken from him by

the mediation of the merits of Jesus Christ, destroyed the cross,

and caused the country to be called Brazil, the name of a red

wood. This name has entered into the mouth of every one, and that

of Holy Cross is lost, as if it was more important that a name

should come from a wood used to dye clothes, rather than from

that wood which gives virtue to all the sacraments--means of our

salvation--because it was dyed with the blood of Jesus Christ

spilled upon it."

Thus it is evident that the name Brazils was given to the country

by the Portuguese, subsequently to Cabral's discovery, from the

quantity of the red wood abounding there.

The first known "Brasilium," or "Bresil," would be the Indian

variety (Caesalpinia Sappan), introduced into Europe, most

probably, by the Venetians or Genoese, and obtained by them from

the Levant, brought there by caravans, or by the Persian and

Arabian Gulfs.

"Campesche," or Campeachy wood, "Haematoxyllum Campechianum"

(Linn.)

The land is very fertile, producing corn twice in the year, and in as

great abundance as can be desired, and, whatever season it may be,

there are always very good and fresh fruits on the trees; for when one

fruit arrives at maturity, others come, and thus succeed one to the

other; and the trees are never devoid of fruit, and are always green.

If the king of Spain would permit vines to be planted in this kingdom,

they would fructify like the corn; for I have seen grapes produced from

a stock which some one had planted for pleasure, of which every grain

was as large as a plum, as long as half the thumb, and much better than

those of Spain.

[Illustration: A SILVER MINE.]

But all the contentment that I had felt at the sight of things so

agreeable, was but little in regard of that which I experienced when I

beheld that beautiful city of Mechique, which I did not suppose to be

so superbly built, with splendid temples, palaces, and fine houses; and

the streets well laid out, where are seen the large and handsome shops

of the merchants, full of all sorts of very rich merchandise.

I think, as well as I can judge, that there are in the said city,

twelve thousand to fifteen thousand Spanish inhabitants, and six times

as many Indians, who are Christians, dwelling there, besides a great

number of negro slaves.

This city is surrounded almost on every side by a lake, with the

exception of one part, which may be about three hundred paces in

length, which can be cut and fortified. On this side only is there

anything to be feared, as on all the other sides it is more than a

league to the borders of the lake, into which fall four great rivers

from far inland, and navigable for boats. One is called the river of

Terra-Firma; another the river of Chile; another the river of Cacou;

and the fourth, the river of Mechique, in which great quantities of

fish are caught, of the same kind as we have with us, and very good.

Along this river are a great number of fine gardens, and much arable

land, very fertile.

Two leagues from the said Mechique there are silver mines, which the

king of Spain has farmed out for five millions of gold a year, and he

has reserved also the right of employing a great number of slaves, to

get from the said mines as much as he can, for his profit; and he draws

besides the tenth part of all that the farmers get, so that these mines

are a very good revenue to the said king of Spain.

A great quantity of cochineal is gathered in this country, which grows

in the fields as peas do elsewhere. It comes from a fruit the size of a

walnut which is full of seed within.[59] It is left to come to maturity

until the said seeds are dry, and then it is cut like corn and beaten

to have the seed, of which they sow again so as to have more. It is the

king of Spain alone who has the said cochineal sown and collected; and

the merchants must buy it of his appointed officers, for it is

merchandise of high price, and is esteemed as gold and silver.

[59] "Cactus Opuntia." The belief that the cochineal was the seed

of a plant, was prevalent for a very long period after the

conquest of Mexico. In a drawing which Champlain gives of the

plant, the "seeds" are shown exactly as the insects fix and feed

on the leaves. The jealousy of the Spanish government, and the

severe monopoly of this production, prevented the true nature and

mode of propagation from being known, and gave rise to a variety

of fables and conjectures.

There is a tree in the said country which is cut like the vine, and

from the place where it is cut there distils an oil, which is a kind of

balm, called oil of canima, from the name of the tree which is so

called.[60] This is a singular oil for all sorts of wounds and cuts, and

for removing pains, principally of gout. The wood has the odour of

fir-tree wood. An ounce of the said oil is worth and sells for two

crowns.

[60] I am at a loss to find what tree it is that Champlain

designates thus, unless it is "Canica"--Myrtus pimenta.

There is another tree, which is called cacou,[61] the fruit of which is

very good and useful for many things, and even serves for money among

the Indians, who give sixty for one real; each fruit is of the size of

a pine-seed, and of the same shape; but the shell is not so hard; the

older it is the better; and to buy provisions, such as bread, meat,

fish, or herbs, this money may serve for five or six objects.

Merchandise for provision can only be procured with it from the

Indians, as it is not current among the Spaniards, nor to buy often

other merchandise than fruits. When this fruit is desired to be made

use of, it is reduced to powder, then a paste is made, which is steeped

in hot water, in which honey, which comes from the same tree, is mixed,

and a little spice; then the whole being boiled together, it is drunk

in the morning, warm, as our sailors drink brandy, and they find

themselves so well after having drunk of it, that they can pass a whole

day without eating or having great appetite.[62]

[61] The brown cacao (Linn.)

[62] The supporting and stimulating properties of chocolate were

discovered very early, and were particularly valuable in a

country where the animal food gave but little nourishment. Gage

says, that "Three or four hours after a repast of three or four

dishes of beef, kid, turkey, and other game, his and company's

stomachs were overcome with weakness and ready to faint, so that

they were obliged to support and fortify them with a glass of

chocolate," etc. This "strangeness" was attributed to the little

nourishment in the meats, although in appearance as fine as those

of Europe, owing to the extreme dryness of the pasturage.

This tree bears numbers of thorns, which are very pointed; and when

they are torn off, a thread comes from the bark of the said tree, which

they spin as fine as they please; and with this thorn, and the thread

which is attached to it, they can sew as well as with a needle and

other thread. The Indians make very good, fine, and delicate thread of

it, and nevertheless so strong, that a man cannot break two fibres of

it together, although they may be as fine as hairs; the pound of this

thread, called thread of Pitte[63], is worth in Spain, eight crowns, and

with it, lace, and other valuable works are made. From the bark of this

tree vinegar is made, as strong as that from wine; and taking the heart

of this tree, and pressing it, there comes out very good honey: then

drying the pith thus pressed in the sun, it serves to light fires.

Moreover, in pressing the leaves of this tree, which are like those of

the olive tree, there proceeds from them a juice, of which the Indians

make a beverage. This tree is of the size of an olive tree.

[63] Champlain has here evidently the description of the cacao

tree and the "Metl," or Maguey (Aloes Pitta, Aloes disticha,

Agave Americana), to which nearly all the latter part of his

description applies, save the "leaf like that of an olive tree."

I have before spoken of a tree which is called Gouiave,[64] which grows

very commonly in this country, and bears a fruit also called Gouiave,

of the size of an apple of Capendu,[65] of a yellow colour, and the

inside like to that of green figs; the juice is pretty good.

[64] "Psidium" (Linn.) "Sa qualite est de resserrer le ventre,

estant mange vert, dont aussi plusieurs s'en servent contre le

flux de sang; mais estant mange meur il a un effet tout

contraire."--De Rochefort, _Hist. des Antilles_, etc., 1658.

[65] A kind of apple common in Normandy, in the "Pays de Caux"

more particularly.

This fruit has the property, that if a person should have a flux of the

belly, and should eat of the said fruit, without the skin, he would be

cured in two hours; and on the contrary, if a man be constipated, and

eat the skin only, without the inside of the fruit, it would

incontinently loosen his bowels, without need of other medicines.

[Illustration: Acoyates]

There is also another fruit called Accoiates,[66] of the size of large

winter pears, very green outside: and when the skin is taken off, a

very thick flesh is found, which is eaten with salt, and has the taste

of kernels or green walnuts; there is a stone in it, of the size of a

walnut, of which the inside is bitter. The tree (branch) on which grows

the said fruit, is here figured, together with the fruit.

[66] "_Ahuacahuitl_," native name, by corruption called "Aguacat";

by the Spaniards, "Avorat," "Avogade," and "Avocat"--the Avogada

pear.

"Shaped like a pear, sometimes like a lime, green without, green

and white within, with a large kernel in the middle. It is eaten

cooked or raw, with salt. All travellers agree that no fruit in

Europe can compare with it."--Clusius.

Also there is a fruit, which is called Algarobe,[67] of the size of

plums of Apt, and as long as bean-pods; the shell of it is harder than

that of cassia, and is of a chesnut colour; a small fruit like a large

green bean is found in it, which has a kernel, and is very good.

[67] Algaroba, or Algarova, the name given by the Spaniards to

some species of acacia of the New World, from their resemblance

to the algarobe, caroubier, St. John's bean, or carob tree, of

which the pods form excellent food for cattle.

I saw also another fruit called Carreau, of the size of the first:[68]

the skin is very tender, and of an orange colour; the inside is red as

blood, and the flesh like that of plums; it stains where it touches,

like mulberries: the taste is very good, and it is said to be excellent

for curing the bite of venomous creatures.

[68] The fruit of a variety of Cactus Opuntia--the "Nuchtli" of

the Mexicans, and called "Raquette" by the French, from the shape

of the leaves. "Ce que nos Francois appellent Raquette a cause de

la figure de ses feuilles: sur quelques unes de ces feuilles,

longues et herissees, croist un fruit de la grosseur d'une

prune-datte; quand il est meur, il est rouge dedans, et dehors

comme de vermillon. Il a cette propriete, qu'il teint l'urine en

couleur de sang aussi tost qu'on en a mange, de sorte que ceux

qui ne savent pas ce secret, craignent de s'estre rompu une

veine, et il s'en est trouve qui, aians apperceu ce changement,

se sont mis au lit, et out creu estre dangereusement

malades."--De Rochefort, _Voyage aux Antilles_, etc., 1658.

This should be the same fruit of which Gage writes (1625-26):

"There is another sort of this fruit, 'Nuchtli,' which is red,

and is not esteemed as the others, although not of bad taste, but

on account of its staining with the colour of blood, not only the

mouth and the linen of him who eats it, but also his urine."

There is also another fruit, which is named Serolles,[69] of the size of

the plum, very yellow, and has the taste of muscatel pears.

[69] From the Spanish "Ciruela"--plum.

I have also spoken of a tree named Palmiste.[70] It is twenty paces in

height, and as large round as a man; nevertheless it is so tender, that

with a good sword-stroke, it can be cut quite through, because the

outside is as soft as a cabbage, and the inside full of marrowy-pith,

which is very good, and firmer than the rest of the tree: it has the

taste of sugar, as sweet, and better. The Indians make a drink of it,

mixed with water, which is very good.

[70] In Champlain's time only two varieties of palm were known

(save the cocoa-nut tree, which was called "palm" _par

excellence_), the "Palmiste franc," or cabbage palm--Areca

oleracea (Linn.); and the "Palmiste epineuse," or thorny

palm--Areca spinosa (Linn.)

I saw also another fruit, called Cocques, of the size of an Indian

nut,[71] which has a figure approaching to that of a man's head: for

there are two holes which represent the two eyes, and that which

advances between the two holes appears as the nose, underneath which

there is a rather wide hole, which may be taken for the mouth, and the

upper part of the said fruit is all frizzled, like curly hair; from the

aforesaid holes issues a water, which is used as a medicine. When first

plucked, this fruit is not good to eat; they let it dry, and make like

little cups and bottles of it, as of Indian nuts, which come from the

palm.

[71] "Cocos lapidea" of Gaertner, the fruit of which is smaller

than the common cocoa-nut, and of which small vases, cups, etc.,

are made.

As I have spoken of the palm,[72] although it is a tree sufficiently

common, I will here represent it. It is one of the highest and

straightest trees that can be seen; its fruit, which is called "Indian

nut," grows quite on the top of the tree, and is as large as the head

of a man; and there is a thick green bark on the said nut, which bark

being removed, the nut is found, about the size of two fists; that

which is inside is very good to eat, and has the taste of young

walnuts; there comes from it a water, which serves as a cosmetic for

the ladies.[73]

[72] Cocos nucifera.

[73] "C'est cette eau qui entre ses autres vertus, a la propriete

d'effacer toutes les rides du visage, et de lui donner une

couleur blanche et vermeille pourveu qu'on l'en lave aussi-tost

que le fruit est tombe de l'arbre."--De Rochefort.

There is another fruit called "Plante,"[74] of which the tree may be

twenty or twenty-five feet high, which has a leaf so large, that a man

might cover himself with it. There grows a root from the said tree, on

which are a quantity of the "plantes," each of which is as thick as the

arm, and a foot and a half long, of a yellow and green colour, of very

good taste, and so wholesome, that a man can eat as much as he likes,

without its doing any harm.

[74] Plaintain-tree--Banana.

The Indians use a kind of corn which they call "Mamaix" (maize), which

is of the size of a pea, yellow and red: and when they wish to eat it,

they take a stone, hollowed like a mortar, and another, round, in the

shape of a pestle: and after the said corn has been steeped for an

hour, they grind and reduce it to flour in the said stone; then they

knead and bake it in this manner. They take a plate of iron, or of

stone, which they heat on the fire: and when quite hot, they take their

paste, and spread it upon the plate rather thin, like tart-paste; and

having thus cooked it, they eat it while hot, for it is good for

nothing, cold, or kept.

They have also another root, which they name Cassave, which they use

for making bread: but if any one should eat of it, unprepared, he would

die.

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