One of the most curious phases of Greek civilisation which has thus

perished for us, and regarding which, as we may fancy, we should have

made better use of that old traveller's facilities, is the early

Attic deme-life--its picturesque, intensely localised variety, in the

hollow or on the spur of mountain or sea-shore; and with it many a

relic of primitive religion, many an early growth of art parallel to

what Vasari records of artistic beginnings in the smaller cities of

Italy. Colonus and Acharnae, surviving still so vividly by the magic

of Sophocles, of Aristophanes, are but isolated examples of a

widespread manner of life, in which, amid many provincial

peculiarities, the first, yet perhaps the most costly and telling

steps were made in all the various departments of Greek culture.

Even in the days of Pausanias, Piraeus was still traceable as a

distinct township, once the possible rival of Athens, with its little

old covered market by the seaside, and the symbolical picture of the

place, its Genius, visible on the wall. And that is but the type of

what there had been to know of threescore and more village

communities, each having its own altars, its special worship and

[154] place of civic assembly, its trade and crafts, its name drawn

from physical peculiarity or famous incident, its body of heroic

tradition. Lingering on while Athens, the great deme, gradually

absorbed into itself more and more of their achievements, and passing

away almost completely as political factors in the Peloponnesian war,

they were still felt, we can hardly doubt, in the actual physiognomy

of Greece. That variety in unity, which its singular geographical

formation secured to Greece as a whole, was at its utmost in these

minute reflexions of the national character, with all the relish

of local difference--new art, new poetry, fresh ventures in political

combination, in the conception of life, springing as if straight from

the soil, like the thorn-blossom of early spring in magic lines over

all that rocky land. On the other hand, it was just here that

ancient habits clung most tenaciously--that old-fashioned, homely,

delightful existence, to which the refugee, pent up in Athens in the

years of the Peloponnesian war, looked back so fondly. If the

impression of Greece generally is but enhanced by the littleness of

the physical scene of events intellectually so great--such a system

of grand lines, restrained within so narrow a compass, as in one of

its fine coins--still more would this be true of those centres of

country life. Here, certainly, was that assertion of seemingly small

interests, which brings into free play, and gives his utmost value

[155] to, the individual; making his warfare, equally with his more

peaceful rivalries, deme against deme, the mountain against the

plain, the sea-shore, (as in our own old Border life, but played out

here by wonderfully gifted people) tangible as a personal history, to

the doubling of its fascination for those whose business is with the

survey of the dramatic side of life.

As with civil matters, so it was also, we may fairly suppose, with

religion; the deme-life was a manifestation of religious custom and

sentiment, in all their primitive local variety. As Athens,

gradually drawing into itself the various elements of provincial

culture, developed, with authority, the central religious position,

the demes-men did but add the worship of Athene Polias, the goddess

of the capital, to their own pre-existent ritual uses. Of local and

central religion alike, time and circumstance had obliterated much

when Pausanias came. A devout spirit, with religion for his chief

interest, eager for the trace of a divine footstep, anxious even in

the days of Lucian to deal seriously with what had counted for so

much to serious men, he has, indeed, to lament that "Pan is dead":--

"They come no longer!"--"These things happen no longer!" But the

Greek--his very name also, Hellen, was the title of a priesthood--had

been religious abundantly, sanctifying every detail of his actual

life with the religious idea; and as Pausanias goes on his way he

finds many a remnant of that [156] earlier estate of religion, when,

as he fancied, it had been nearer the gods, as it was certainly

nearer the earth. It is marked, even in decay, with varieties of

place; and is not only continuous but in situ. At Phigaleia he

makes his offerings to Demeter, agreeably to the paternal rites of

the inhabitants, wax, fruit, undressed wool "still full of the sordes

of the sheep." A dream from heaven cuts short his notice of the

mysteries of Eleusis. He sees the stone, "big enough for a little

man," on which Silenus was used to sit and rest; at Athens, the

tombs of the Amazons, of the purple-haired Nisus, of Deucalion;--"it

is a manifest token that he had dwelt there." The worshippers of

Poseidon, even at his temple among the hills, might still feel the

earth fluctuating beneath their feet. And in care for divine things,

he tells us, the Athenians outdid all other Greeks. Even in the days

of Nero it revealed itself oddly; and it is natural to suppose that

of this temper the demes, as the proper home of conservatism, were

exceptionally expressive. Scattered in those remote, romantic

villages, among their olives or sea-weeds, lay the heroic graves, the

relics, the sacred images, often rude enough amid the delicate

tribute of later art; this too oftentimes finding in such retirement

its best inspirations, as in some Attic Fiesole. Like a network over

the land of gracious poetic tradition, as also of undisturbed

ceremonial usage surviving late for those who cared to seek it, the

[157] local religions had been never wholly superseded by the worship

of the great national temples. They were, in truth, the most

characteristic developments of a faith essentially earth-born or

indigenous.

And how often must the student of fine art, again, wish he had the

same sort of knowledge about its earlier growth in Greece, that he

actually possesses in the case of Italian art! Given any development

at all in this matter, there must have been phases of art, which, if

immature, were also veritable expressions of power to come,

intermediate discoveries of beauty, such as are by no means a mere

anticipation, and of service only as explaining historically larger

subsequent achievements, but of permanent attractiveness in

themselves, being often, indeed, the true maturity of certain amiable

artistic qualities. And in regard to Greek art at its best--the

Parthenon--no less than to the art of the Renaissance at its best--

the Sistine Chapel--the more instructive light would be derived

rather from what precedes than what follows such central success,

from the determination to apprehend the fulfilment of past effort

rather than the eve of decline, in the critical, central moment which

partakes of both. Of such early promise, early achievement, we have

in the case of Greek art little to compare with what is extant of the

youth of the arts in Italy. Overbeck's careful gleanings of its

history form indeed [158] a sorry relic as contrasted with Vasari's

intimations of the beginnings of the Renaissance. Fired by certain

fragments of its earlier days, of a beauty, in truth, absolute, and

vainly longing for more, the student of Greek sculpture indulges the

thought of an ideal of youthful energy therein, yet withal of

youthful self-restraint; and again, as with survivals of old

religion, the privileged home, he fancies, of that ideal must have

been in those venerable Attic townships, as to a large extent it

passed away with them.

The budding of new art, the survival of old religion, at isolated

centres of provincial life, where varieties of human character also

were keen, abundant, asserted in correspondingly effective incident--

this is what irresistible fancy superinduces on historic details,

themselves meagre enough. The sentiment of antiquity is indeed a

characteristic of all cultivated people, even in what may seem the

freshest ages, and not exclusively a humour of our later world. In

the earliest notices about them, as we know, the people of Attica

appear already impressed by the immense antiquity of their occupation

of its soil, of which they claim to be the very first flower. Some

at least of those old demes-men we may well fancy sentimentally

reluctant to change their habits, fearful of losing too much of

themselves in the larger stream of life, clinging to what is

antiquated as the work of centralisation goes on, needful as that

work was, [159] with the great "Eastern difficulty" already ever in

the distance. The fear of Asia, barbaric, splendid, hardly known,

yet haunting the curious imagination of those who had borrowed thence

the art in which they were rapidly excelling it, developing, as we

now see, in the interest of Greek humanity, crafts begotten of

tyrannic and illiberal luxury, was finally to suppress the rivalries

of those primitive centres of activity, when the "invincible armada"

of the common foe came into sight.

At a later period civil strife was to destroy their last traces. The

old hoplite, from Rhamnus or Acharnae, pent up in beleaguered Athens

during that first summer of the Peloponnesian war, occupying with his

household a turret of the wall, as Thucydides describes--one of many

picturesque touches in that severe historian--could well remember the

ancient provincial life which this conflict with Sparta was bringing

to an end. He could recall his boyish, half-scared curiosity

concerning those Persian ships, coming first as merchantmen, or with

pirates on occasion, in the half-savage, wicked splendours of their

decoration, the monstrous figure-heads, their glittering freightage.

Men would hardly have trusted their women or children with that

suspicious crew, hovering through the dusk. There were soothsayers,

indeed, who had long foretold what happened soon after, giving shape

to vague, supernatural terrors. And then he had crept [160] from his

hiding-place with other lads to go view the enemies' slain at

Marathon, beside those belated Spartans, this new war with whom

seemed to be reviving the fierce local feuds of his younger days.

Paraloi and Diacrioi had ever been rivals. Very distant it all

seemed now, with all the stories he could tell; for in those

crumbling little towns, as heroic life had lingered on into the

actual, so, at an earlier date, the supernatural into the heroic.

Like mist at dawn, the last traces of its divine visitors had then

vanished from the land, where, however, they had already begotten

"our best and oldest families."

It was Theseus, uncompromising young master of the situation, in

fearless application of "the modern spirit" of his day to every phase

of life where it was applicable, who, at the expense of Attica, had

given Athens a people, reluctant enough, in truth, as Plutarch

suggests, to desert "their homes and religious usages and many good

and gracious kings of their own" for this elect youth, who thus

figures, passably, as a kind of mythic shorthand for civilisation,

making roads and the like, facilitating travel, suppressing various

forms of violence, but many innocent things as well. So it must

needs be in a world where, even hand in hand with a god-assisted

hero, Justice goes blindfold. He slays the bull of Marathon and many

another local tyrant, but also exterminates that delightful creature,

the Centaur. The Amazon, whom Plato will [161] reinstate as the type

of improved womanhood, has no better luck than Phaea, the sow-pig of

Crommyon, foul old landed-proprietress. They exerted, however, the

prerogative of poetic protest, and survive thereby. Centaur and

Amazon, as we see them in the fine art of Greece, represent the

regret of Athenians themselves for something that could never be

brought to life again, and have their pathos. Those young heroes

contending with Amazons on the frieze of the Mausoleum had best make

haste with their bloody work, if young people's eyes can tell a true

story. A type still of progress triumphant through injustice, set on

improving things off the face of the earth, Theseus took occasion to

attack the Amazons in their mountain home, not long after their

ruinous conflict with Hercules, and hit them when they were down.

That greater bully had laboured off on the world's highway, carrying

with him the official girdle of Antiope, their queen, gift of Ares,

and therewith, it would seem, the mystic secret of their strength.

At sight of this new foe, at any rate, she came to a strange

submission. The savage virgin had turned to very woman, and was

presently a willing slave, returning on the gaily appointed ship in

all haste to Athens, where in supposed wedlock she bore King Theseus

a son.

With their annual visit--visit to the Gargareans!--for the purpose of

maintaining their [162] species, parting with their boys early, these

husbandless women could hardly be supposed a very happy, certainly

not a very joyous people. They figure rather as a sorry measure of

the luck of the female sex in taking a hard natural law into their

own hands, and by abnegation of all tender companionship making shift

with bare independence, as a kind of second-best--the best

practicable by them in the imperfect actual condition of things. But

the heart-strings would ache still where the breast had been cut

away. The sisters of Antiope had come, not immediately, but in

careful array of battle, to bring back the captive. All along the

weary roads from the Caucasus to Attica, their traces had remained in

the great graves of those who died by the way. Against the little

remnant, carrying on the fight to the very midst of Athens, Antiope

herself had turned, all other thoughts transformed now into wild

idolatry of her hero. Superstitious, or in real regret, the

Athenians never forgot their tombs. As for Antiope, the conscience

of her perfidy remained with her, adding the pang of remorse to her

own desertion, when King Theseus, with his accustomed bad faith to

women, set her, too, aside in turn. Phaedra, the true wife, was

there, peeping suspiciously at her arrival; and even as Antiope

yielded to her lord's embraces the thought had come that a male child

might be the instrument of her anger, and one day judge her cause.

[163] In one of these doomed, decaying villages, then, King Theseus

placed the woman and her babe, hidden, yet secure, within the Attic

border, as men veil their mistakes or crimes. They might pass away,

they and their story, together with the memory of other antiquated

creatures of such places, who had had connubial dealings with the

stars. The white, paved waggon-track, a by-path of the sacred way to

Eleusis, zigzagged through sloping olive-yards, from the plain of

silvered blue, with Athens building in the distance, and passed the

door of the rude stone house, furnished scantily, which no one had

ventured to inhabit of late years till they came there. On the

ledges of the grey cliffs above, the laurel groves, stem and foliage

of motionless bronze, had spread their tents. Travellers bound

northwards were glad to repose themselves there, and take directions,

or provision for their journey onwards, from the highland people, who

came down hither to sell their honey, their cheese, and woollen

stuff, in the tiny market-place. At dawn the great stars seemed to

halt a while, burning as if for sacrifice to some pure deity, on

those distant, obscurely named heights, like broken swords, the rim

of the world. A little later you could just see the newly opened

quarries, like streaks of snow on their russet-brown bosoms. Thither

in spring-time all eyes turned from Athens devoutly, intent till the

first shaft of lightning gave signal for the departure of the [164]

sacred ship to Delos. Racing over those rocky surfaces, the virgin

air descended hither with the secret of profound sleep, as the child

lay in its cubicle hewn in the stone, the white fleeces heaped warmly

round him. In the wild Amazon's soul, to her surprise, and at first

against her will, the maternal sense had quickened from the moment of

his conception, and (that burst of angry tears with which she had

received him into the world once dried up), kindling more eagerly at

every token of manly growth, had at length driven out every other

feeling. And this animal sentiment, educating the human hand and

heart in her, had become a moral one, when, King Theseus leaving her

in anger, visibly unkind, the child had crept to her side, and

tracing with small fingers the wrinkled lines of her woebegone brow,

carved there as if by a thousand years of sorrow, had sown between

himself and her the seed of an undying sympathy.

She was thus already on the watch for a host of minute recognitions

on his part, of the self-sacrifice involved in her devotion to a

career of which she must needs drain out the sorrow, careful that he

might taste only the joy. So far, amid their spare living, the

child, as if looking up to the warm broad wing of her love above him,

seemed replete with comfort. Yet in his moments of childish

sickness, the first passing shadows upon the deep joy of her

motherhood, she teaches him betimes to soothe [165] or cheat pain--

little bodily pains only, hitherto. She ventures sadly to assure him

of the harsh necessities of life: "Courage, child! Every one must

take his share of suffering. Shift not thy body so vehemently.

Pain, taken quietly, is easier to bear."

Carefully inverting the habits of her own rude childhood, she learned

to spin the wools, white and grey, to clothe and cover him

pleasantly. The spectacle of his unsuspicious happiness, though at

present a matter of purely physical conditions, awoke a strange sense

of poetry, a kind of artistic sense in her, watching, as her own

long-deferred recreation in life, his delight in the little

delicacies she prepared to his liking--broiled kids' flesh, the red

wine, the mushrooms sought through the early dew--his hunger and

thirst so daintily satisfied, as he sat at table, like the first-born

of King Theseus, with two wax-lights and a fire at dawn or nightfall

dancing to the prattle and laughter, a bright child, never stupidly

weary. At times his very happiness would seem to her like a menace

of misfortune to come. Was there not with herself the curse of that

unsisterly action? and not far from him, the terrible danger of the

father's, the step-mother's jealousy, the mockery of those half-

brothers to come? Ah! how perilous for happiness the sensibilities

which make him so exquisitely happy now! Before they started on

their dreadful visit to the Minotaur, says Plutarch, the women told

their [166] sons many tales and other things to encourage them; and,

even as she had furnished the child betimes with rules for the solace

of bodily pain, so now she would have brought her own sad experience

into service in precepts for the ejection of its festering power out

of any other trouble that might visit him. Already those little

disappointments which are as the shadow beside all conscious

enjoyment, were no petty things to her, but had for her their pathos,

as children's troubles will have, in spite of the longer chance

before them. They were as the first steps in a long story of

deferred hopes, or anticipations of death itself and the end of them.

The gift of Ares gone, the mystic girdle she would fain have

transferred to the child, that bloody god of storm and battle,

hereditary patron of her house, faded from her thoughts together with

the memory of her past life--the more completely, because another

familiar though somewhat forbidding deity, accepting certainly a

cruel and forbidding worship, was already in possession, and reigning

in the new home when she came thither. Only, thanks to some kindly

local influence (by grace, say, of its delicate air), Artemis, this

other god she had known in the Scythian wilds, had put aside her

fierce ways, as she paused awhile on her heavenly course among these

ancient abodes of men, gliding softly, mainly through their dreams,

with abundance of salutary touches. Full, in truth, of [167]

grateful memory of some timely service at human hands! In these

highland villages the tradition of celestial visitants clung fondly,

of god or hero, belated or misled on long journeys, yet pleased to be

among the sons of men, as their way led them up the steep, narrow,

crooked street, condescending to rest a little, as one, under some

sudden stress not clearly ascertained, had done here, in this very

house, thereafter for ever sacred. The place and its inhabitants, of

course, had been something bigger in the days of those old mythic

hospitalities, unless, indeed, divine persons took kindly the will

for the deed--very different, surely, from the present condition of

things, for there was little here to detain a delicate traveller,

even in the abode of Antiope and her son, though it had been the

residence of a king.

Hard by stood the chapel of the goddess, who had thus adorned the

place with her memories. The priests, indeed, were already departed

to Athens, carrying with them the ancient image, the vehicle of her

actual presence, as the surest means of enriching the capital at the

expense of the country, where she must now make poor shift of the

occasional worshipper on his way through these mountain passes. But

safely roofed beneath the sturdy tiles of grey Hymettus marble, upon

the walls of the little square recess enclosing the deserted

pedestal, a series of crowded imageries, in the devout spirit [168]

of earlier days, were eloquent concerning her. Here from scene to

scene, touched with silver among the wild and human creatures in dun

bronze, with the moon's disk around her head, shrouded closely, the

goddess of the chase still glided mystically through all the varied

incidents of her story, in all the detail of a written book.

A book for the delighted reading of a scholar, willing to ponder at

leisure, to make his way surely, and understand. Very different,

certainly, from the cruel-featured little idol his mother had brought

in her bundle--the old Scythian Artemis, hanging there on the wall,

side by side with the forgotten Ares, blood-red,--the goddess reveals

herself to the lad, poring through the dusk by taper-light, as at

once a virgin, necessarily therefore the creature of solitude, yet

also as the assiduous nurse of children, and patroness of the young.

Her friendly intervention at the act of birth everywhere, her claim

upon the nursling, among tame and wild creatures equally, among men

as among gods, nay! among the stars (upon the very star of dawn),

gave her a breadth of influence seemingly coextensive with the sum of

things. Yes! his great mother was in touch with everything. Yet

throughout he can but note her perpetual chastity, with pleasurable

though half-suspicious wonder at the mystery, he knows not what,

involved therein, as though he awoke suddenly in some distant,

unexplored region of her person and activity. [169] Why the lighted

torch always, and that long straight vesture rolled round so

formally? Was it only against the cold of these northern heights?

To her, nevertheless, her maternity, her solitude, to this virgin

mother, who, with no husband, no lover, no fruit of her own, is so

tender to the children of others, in a full heart he devotes himself-

-his immaculate body and soul. Dedicating himself thus, he has the

sense also that he becomes more entirely than ever the chevalier of

his mortal mother, of her sad cause. The devout, diligent hands

clear away carefully the dust, the faded relics of her former

worship; a worship renewed once more as the sacred spring, set free

from encumbrance, in answer to his willing ministries murmurs again

under the dim vault in its marble basin, work of primitive Titanic

fingers--flows out through its rocky channel, filling the whole

township with chaste thoughts of her.

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