the eye of the string. Now, while the fingers and thumb of the left hand
slide this eye towards the notch in the horn, and the heel _pushes_ the
limb away from the body, the right hand _pulls_ the handle towards the
person, and thus resists the action of the left, by which the bow is
bent, and at the same time the string is slipped into the "nock," as the
notch is termed.
Take care to keep the three outer fingers free from the string, for if
the bow should slip from the hand, and the string catch them, they will
be severely pinched. If shooting in frosty weather, warm the bow before
a fire, or by friction with a woolen cloth. If the bow has been lying by
for a long time, it should be well rubbed with boiled linseed oil before
using.
TO UNSTRING THE BOW, hold it as in stringing; then press down the upper
limb exactly as before, and as if you wished to place the eye of the
string in a higher notch; this will loosen the string and liberate the
eye, when it must be lifted out of the nock by the forefinger, and
suffered to slip down the limb.
BEFORE USING THE BOW, hold it in a perpendicular direction, with the
string towards you, and see if the line of the string cuts the middle of
the bow; if not, shift the eye and noose of the string to either side,
so as to make the two lines coincide. This precaution prevents a very
common cause of defective shooting, which is the result of an uneven
string throwing the arrow on one side.
AFTER USING IT, unstring it; and if a large party is shooting, after
every end it should be liberated from its state of tension; but in this
respect there is a great difference in different bows, some good ones
soon getting cast from their true shape, and others, though inferior
bows, bearing any ordinary amount of tension without damage.
THE GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF THE BOW should be on the principle that damp
injures it, and that any loose floating ends interfere with its
shooting.
It should, therefore, be kept well varnished, and in a water-proof case,
and it should be carefully dried after shooting in damp weather. If
there are any ends hanging from the string cut them off pretty close,
and see that the whipping in the middle of the string is close and
well-fitting. The case should be hung up against a dry internal wall,
not too near fire.
IN SELECTING THE BOW, be careful that it is not too strong for your
power, and that you can draw the arrow to its head without any
trembling of the hand. If this cannot be done after a little practice,
the bow should be changed for a weaker one, for no arrow will go true if
it is discharged by a trembling hand.
IN SELECTING ARROWS, be careful that they are not too long. For a bow of
5 feet 10 inches, the arrows should be about 2 feet 4 inches in length.
For a lady's bow of 4 feet 10 inches, the arrow should measure about 2
feet.
IN SHOOTING, keep the longer limb of the bow upwards, as the bow is
liable to be broken if used the other way, and the wrapping of the
string does not coincide with the upper part of the handle. Bows may be
broken either from the above circumstance, or by overdrawing them, or by
snapping the string without an arrow in it, or by the string breaking;
and if a bow stands all these trials, it is to be prized as a sound and
good bit of stuff.
After an arrow has been shot into the target or the ground, be
particularly careful to withdraw it, by laying hold close to its head,
and by twisting it round as it is withdrawn in the direction of its
axis. Without this precaution it may be easily bent or broken.
IN SHOOTING AT THE TARGET, the first thing to be done is TO NOCK THE
ARROW--that is, to place it properly on the string. In order to effect
this, take the bow in the left hand, with the string towards you, the
upper limb being towards the right. Hold it horizontally while you take
the arrow by the middle, pass it on the _under_ side of the string and
the _upper_ side of the bow, till the head reaches two or three inches
past the left hand; hold it there with the forefinger or thumb while you
remove the right hand down to the nock. Turn the arrow till the
cock-feather comes uppermost; then pass it down the bow, and fix it on
the nocking point of the string. In doing this, all contact with the
feathers should be avoided, unless they are rubbed out of place, when
they may be smoothed down by passing them through the hand from the
point towards the nock.
THE ATTITUDE for shooting should be graceful as well as serviceable. The
body should be at right angles with the target; but the face must be
turned over the left shoulder, so as to be opposed to it. The feet are
to be flat on the ground, with the heels a little apart, the left foot
turned towards the mark; the head and chest inclined a _little_ forward,
so as to present a full bust, but not bent at all below the waist.
IN DRAWING THE BOW, proceed as follows:
_1st Method._--Take hold of the bow with the left hand, having the elbow
straight; then, having placed the arrow as directed in the last
paragraph, and having the finger-stalls or shooting-glove on, put a
finger on each side of the arrow on the string and the thumb on the
opposite side, so as to steady it; then raise all at the full length of
the arm till the right hand reaches nearly to the level of the
shoulder, and the left is opposite the target, when, by drawing the one
to the ear, and the other towards the target, the arrow is brought to a
direct line with the bull's-eye, and at that moment it is released.
_2nd Method._--Draw the arrow as before, but pause when the arrow is
fully extended to the head, and take aim. This, however, requires a very
strong arm, and also a strong bow, or there will be a quivering of the
muscles, which is communicated to the arrow; beside the danger of
breaking the bow. The loosing must be quick, and the string must leave
the fingers smartly and steadily, the bow hand at that moment being held
as firm as a vise, upon which the goodness of the flight mainly depends.
THE FOLLOWING DIRECTIONS should be attended to strictly, if good
shooting is to be attained:--
1.--Fix the attention steadily upon the object, and disregard all
external objects, which are liable otherwise to distract the eye at the
moment of shooting.
2.--In drawing the bow, in order to secure the arrow in its place, turn
the bow a little obliquely, so that the handle and your knuckles will
together form a groove for the arrow to run in. When it falls off, it is
from the string being held too far up by the fingers, which causes it to
twist in the drawing, and the arrow is thereby thrown off from resting
against the bow. The proper length is midway between the ends and the
first joint of the fingers. Three fingers may be used, but the arrow
should be between the first and second.
3.--In taking aim, two points must be attended to, viz: the LATERAL
_direction_ and the _distance_, because there is no bow which will drive
an arrow many yards perfectly _point-blank_, and, consequently, a slight
elevation must in all cases be made, and for long distances, with weak
bows, a very considerable one. It requires great experience to manage
the elevation properly, and much must depend upon the exact strength of
the bow, and the distance of the shot. With regard to the lateral
direction, it is materially affected by the wind, and this must always
be allowed for if there is any stirring; and if it is in the line of the
targets, one end will require much less elevation than the other.
4.--Fix the eyes on the mark, and not on the arrow. Avoid all such
expedients as putting a mark on the glove to aim by. Do not look from
the mark to the arrow and back again. The proper plan is to keep both
eyes open, and look steadily at the mark, while with the hands the bow
is raised or lowered in accordance with what the _mind thinks_ is the
proper direction.
5.--If an arrow falls off the string, and the archer can reach it with
his bow, it is not shot: but if he cannot, it must be counted as such.
TARGET-SHOOTING.
THE TARGETS are fixed exactly opposite each other, at 60 yards or
perhaps more apart. The stands, when properly placed, are each called
"an end." The proper number of arrows, as fixed by the rules, are then
shot from each end by all the party assembled, when all proceed to pick
up or extract their arrows, the marker scoring for each before drawing
them from the target, after which the party shoot back again to the
other end, and so on until the whole number of ends have been shot.
BUTT-SHOOTING.
BUTTS are built of long sods of turf pressed together. The form of the
base is an oblong square, being about 8 or 9 feet on the front side, and
5 feet wide at the ends. The height is generally about 7 feet, and the
depth diminishes gradually from the bottom to the top. When more than
two are wanted they are ranged in sets; each set consists of four,
ranged at the distance of 30 yards apart, and forming a chain of lengths
of 30, 60, 90, and 120 yards; but so disposed as not to stand in the way
of the archers when shooting at any of the lengths. Against the front of
the butt is placed the mark, which is a circular piece of thin white
pasteboard, fastened by a peg through the middle. The size of this, for
30 yards, is four inches in diameter; for 60 yards, 8 inches; and so on
increasing in diameter in proportion to the distance. Shots in the butt
missing the mark are not scored; and he who makes the greatest number of
hits is the winner. If two are alike, the nearest to the central peg is
the successful one.
ROVING.
This is so called because the archers rove from place to place, and have
no fixed target, but shoot at trees or any other object which presents
itself. The winner of the first shot chooses the next, and so on; the
distance being from 100 to 200 yards; and all arrows falling within five
bow-lengths scoring, if nearer to the mark than the adversary's arrow.
FLIGHT-SHOOTING.
FLIGHT-SHOOTING is merely a trial of distance, and he who can shoot the
furthest is the winner of the trial.
CLOUT-SHOOTING.
THE CLOUT is a small white target of pasteboard, about twelve inches in
diameter, which is slipped into a cleft stick, and this is stuck into
the ground obliquely, so as to bring the lower edge of the clout to the
ground. The distance is generally from 8 to 10 score-yards, and the same
rules apply as in roving.
CROSS-BOW SHOOTING.
CROSS-BOWS are bows set in a frame which receives the arrow or bolt, and
they are set and discharged by a trigger after taking aim. They are,
however, now seldom used except for rook-shooting; and even there the
pea-rifle has almost entirely superseded them.
RULES OF ARCHERY MEETINGS.
THE RULES by which archery meetings are governed are partly the same as
in all other similar societies, and partly peculiar to this craft. The
former consist of those which regulate the election of members,
providing for refreshments, &c., which vary according to circumstances,
and need not here be specified. The latter are generally as follows:--
1.--That a "lady paramount" be annually elected.
2.--That there be -- meetings in each year, the gentleman at whose house
the meeting takes place to be president; and that every member intending
to shoot should be on the ground by -- o'clock. The shooting to commence
at -- and to terminate at --.
3.--That all members intending to shoot shall appear in the uniform of
the club; and that a silver badge be worn by every member of the
society, or a forfeit will be enforced for such omission.
4.--That the secretary do send out cards at least a month before each
day of meeting, acquainting the members with the day and place of
meeting.
5.--That there shall be four prizes at each meeting, two for each sex;
the first for numbers, the second for hits, and that no person shall be
allowed to have both on the same day. The sum of ---- dollars to be
placed at the disposal of the "lady paramount" for prizes at each
meeting.
6.--That the winner of a prize, or prizes, shall lose a ring for each
prize won. But that a ring be given back after any subsequent meeting at
which such member shall shoot without winning.
7.--That in case of a tie for hits, numbers shall decide; and in case of
a tie for numbers, hits shall decide.
8.--That the decision of the "lady paramount" shall be final.
9.--Two prizes to be given at each meeting for strangers, of the value
of --.
10.--That there be a challenge prize of the value of --, and that a
commemorative silver ornament be presented to winners of the challenge
prize, to which a clasp be added on future occasions.
11.--That the distance for shooting be 60 and 100 yards, and that 4-feet
targets be used.
12.--That each shooter be allowed to shoot -- arrows, distinctly marked
or colored.
DRESS.
THE USUAL DRESS FOR LADIES peculiar to archery is in most cases a green
jacket worn over white; sometimes, however, the color is black.
The gentlemen's costume is not generally fixed in archery clubs, but
sometimes a green suit is the club uniform.
EXPENSES.
The expenses of archery are not usually great, though a good many
arrows will be lost or spoiled during a season's shooting, especially if
the grass is not kept mown very close. Bows and all the other
paraphernalia last a long while; and, with the exception of the arrows,
the first cost may be considered to be the only one, over and above the
subscription to the club, to which most archers like to belong,
competition being the essence of the sport.
HURDLE RACING.
1. The usual distance, 120 yards, over ten hurdles, regulation height,
three feet six inches upright, not less than 12 or more than 20 feet
apart, first hurdle must be placed 15 yards from the scratch-mark.
2. Hurdles must be cleared with a jump, touching the hands to the hurdle
will be declared foul, and the offender disqualified.
3. Hurdle races may be arranged for any distance and any height of
hurdle.
4. Each contestant must keep in his direct line of starting, or as near
so as circumstances will permit. Any deviation from such line will
subject the offender to disqualification.
NOTE.--There are three requisites to make a good hurdler: Speed, spring,
and judgment; speed to cover the ground, spring to jump the hurdles, and
judgment to measure the steps between the hurdles. It is one of the many
healthful exercises in Athletics, but requires much practice and
experience; beginners should make their first effort at two feet six
inches. Great care must be taken not to touch the top bar, as it
virtually throws you out of the race and may cause injury.
VAULTING WITH POLE, OR POLE-LEAPING.
1. The uprights should be nine feet apart, and the bar placed on pins
projecting two inches.
2. The pole must fall so as not to touch the bar.
3. A competitor touching the bar without causing it to fall shall be
considered to have cleared it.
4. The height of bar at starting shall be determined by a majority of
the contestants.
5. Competitors will be allowed three trials at each height.
6. The bar shall be raised at the discretion of a majority of the
contestants, and so continued until only one competitor vaults over it,
who shall be declared the victor.
7. When a competitor knocks the bar down, the rotation rule must be
enforced, as in the running high jump.
8. Three balks shall be called "no vault," and must be recorded as one
of the three trials.
NOTE.--This graceful and manly exercise has of late years been greatly
abused, not so much for want of rules, as it was and is to have these
rules enforced. We have seen two men, at three different meetings, claim
the right to the grounds and time of at least one of the judges for
from two to three hours, whereas, had the rules been strictly enforced,
one would have gained a victory or both been disqualified. Gentlemen
Judges, please remember these contestants appear before an audience (who
pay admission) to perform, not to practice, and when they insist upon
keeping the bar at a height that delays the games, they should be
disqualified under the rules.
THROWING THE HAMMER.
1. The hammer-head shall be of solid iron, perfectly round, standard
weights, 16 and 12 pounds, exclusive of handle. Length of handle three
feet six inches over all. The handle should be made from split _white
hickory wood_.
2. The competitor must stand at the scratch with one foot touching the
scratch-mark. He is at liberty to throw with one or both hands.
3. Touching the ground, over the scratch-mark, with any portion of the
body before the hammer strikes, shall be declared "no throw," and must
be recorded as one of the three trials.
4. Permitting the hammer to carry a competitor from his balance or
letting the hammer go out of time must stand as one of the three trials.
5. When the head and handle strike the ground at the same time the head
or iron is the measuring mark, at the first break of the ground made by
it. Should the handle strike first, one length of the handle, in a
direct line with the throw, must be added. The measurement must be from
the scratch-mark, midway between the thrower's feet, to the first break,
in accordance with above rules.
NOTE.--In soft or clay bottom there is no difficulty in getting accurate
measurement, but in quick or shifting sand close attention is required.
PUTTING THE SHOT.
1. The shot must be of solid iron and perfectly round, standard weight
16 pounds. The shot must be put from the shoulder with one hand, not
thrown from the side or under swing.
2. Competitors will take their position between two parallel lines, said
lines being seven feet apart. Passing the toe-mark, or touching the
ground outside of the mark, with any part of the body before the shot
strikes the ground, will be judged and recorded a foul, "no put," and
must stand as one of the three trials.
3. Each competitor is entitled to three trials. The measurement shall be
from the scratch-line or mark opposite the toe-print to the first or
nearest break of the ground made by the shot.
NOTE.--The object being to see how many feet and inches the competitors
can put, in accordance with the above rules, not how straight they can
put.
[THE END.]
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