III. THE WAR LANDSCAPE

1

I saw rather more of the British than of the French aviators because

of the vileness of the weather when I visited the latter. It is quite

impossible for me to institute comparisons between these two services. I

should think that the British organisation I saw would be hard to beat,

and that none but the French could hope to beat it. On the Western front

the aviation has been screwed up to a very much higher level than on

the Italian line. In Italy it has not become, as it has in France, the

decisive factor. The war on the Carso front in Italy--I say nothing of

the mountain warfare, which is a thing in itself--is in fact still in

the stage that I have called B. It is good warfare well waged, but not

such an intensity of warfare. It has not, as one says of pianos and

voices, the same compass.

This is true in spite of the fact that the Italians along of all the

western powers have adopted a type of aeroplane larger and much more

powerful than anything except the big Russian machines. They are not at

all suitable for any present purpose upon the Italian front, but at

a later stage, when the German is retiring and Archibald no longer

searches the air, they would be invaluable on the western front because

of their enormous bomb or machine gun carrying capacity. “But sufficient

for the day is the swat thereof,” as the British public schoolboy says,

and no doubt we shall get them when we have sufficiently felt the need

for them. The big Caproni machines which the Italians possess are of 300

h.p. and will presently be of 500 h.p. One gets up a gangway into them

was one gets into a yacht; they wave a main deck, a forward machine gun

deck and an aft machine gun; one may walk about in them; in addition

to guns and men they carry a very considerable weight of bombs beneath.

They cannot of course beget up with the speed nor soar to the height

of our smaller aeroplanes; it is as carriers in raids behind a force of

fighting machines that they should find their use.

The British establishment I visited was a very refreshing and reassuring

piece of practical organisation. The air force of Great Britain has

had the good fortune to develop with considerable freedom from old army

tradition; many of its officers are ex-civil engineers and so forth;

Headquarters is a little shy of technical direction; and all this in

a service that is still necessarily experimental and plastic is to the

good. There is little doubt that, given a release from prejudice,

bad associations and the equestrian tradition, British technical

intelligence and energy can do just as well as the French. Our problem

with our army is not to create intelligence, there is an abundance of

it, but to release it from a dreary social and official pressure. The

air service ransacks the army for men with technical training and sees

that it gets them, there is a real keenness upon the work, and the men

in these great mobile hangars talk shop readily and clearly.

I have already mentioned and the newspapers have told abundantly of

the pluck, daring, and admirable work of our aviators; what is still

untellable in any detail is the energy and ability of the constructive

and repairing branch upon whose efficiency their feats depend. Perhaps

the most interesting thing I saw in connection with the air work was

the hospital for damaged machines and the dump to which those hopelessly

injured are taken, in order that they may be disarticulated and all that

is sound in them used for reconstruction. How excellently this work

is being done may be judged from the fact that our offensive in July

started with a certain number of aeroplanes, a number that would

have seemed fantastic in a story a year before the war began. These

aeroplanes were in constant action; they fought, they were shot down,

they had their share of accidents. Not only did the repair department

make good every loss, but after three weeks of the offensive the army

was fighting with fifty more machines than at the outset. One goes

through a vast Rembrandtesque shed opening upon a great sunny field, in

whose cool shadows rest a number of interesting patients; captured and

slightly damaged German machines, machines of our own with scars of

battle upon them, one or two cases of bad landing. The star case came

over from Peronne. It had come in two days ago.

I examined this machine and I will tell the state it was in, but I

perceive that what I have to tell will read not like a sober statement

of truth but like strained and silly lying. The machine had had a direct

hit from an Archibald shell. The propeller had been clean blown away; so

had the machine gun and all its fittings. The engines had been stripped

naked and a good deal bent about. The timber stay over the aviator had

been broken, so that it is marvellous the wings of the machine did not

just up at once like the wings of a butterfly. The solitary aviator had

been wounded in the face. He had then come down in a long glide into the

British lines, and made a tolerable landing....

2

One consequence of the growing importance of the aeroplane in warfare is

the development of a new military art, the art of camouflage. Camouflage

is humbugging disguise, it is making things--and especially in this

connection, military things--seem not what they are, but something

peaceful and rural, something harmless and quite uninteresting to

aeroplane observers. It is the art of making big guns look like

haystacks and tents like level patches of field.

Also it includes the art of making attractive models of guns, camps,

trenches and the like that are not bona-fide guns, camps, or trenches at

all, so that the aeroplane bomb-dropper and the aeroplane observer may

waste his time and energies and the enemy gunfire be misdirected.

In Italy I saw dummy guns so made as to deceive the very elect at a

distance of a few thousand feet. The camouflage of concealment aims

either at invisibility or imitation; I have seen a supply train look

like a row of cottages, its smoke-stack a chimney, with the tops of sham

palings running along the back of the engine and creepers painted up

its sides. But that was a flight of the imagination; the commonest

camouflage is merely to conceal. Trees are brought up and planted

near the object to be hidden, it is painted in the same tones as its

background, it is covered with an awning painted to look like grass or

earth. I suppose it is only a matter of development before a dummy cow

or so is put up to chew the cud on the awning.

But camouflage or no camouflage, the bulk of both the French and British

forces in the new won ground of the great offensive lay necessarily in

the open. Only the big guns and the advanced Red Cross stations had got

into pits and subterranean hiding places. The advance has been too rapid

and continuous for the armies to make much of a toilette as they halted,

and the destruction and the desolation of the country won afforded few

facilities for easy concealment. Tents, transport, munitions, these all

indicated an army on the march--at the rate of half a mile in a week or

so, to Germany. If the wet and mud of November and December have for a

time delayed that advance, the force behind has but accumulated for the

resumption of the thrust.

3

A journey up from the base to the front trenches shows an interesting

series of phases. One leaves Amiens, in which the normal life threads

its way through crowds of resting men in khaki and horizon blue, in

which staff officers in automobiles whisk hither and thither, in which

there are nurses and even a few inexplicable ladies in worldly costume,

in which restaurants and cafes are congested and busy, through which

there is a perpetual coming and going of processions of heavy vans to

the railway sidings. One dodges past a monstrous blue-black gun going

up to the British front behind two resolute traction engines--the

three sun-blistered young men in the cart that trails behind lounge in

attitudes of haughty pride that would shame the ceiling gods of Hampton

Court. One passes through arcades of waiting motor vans, through arcades

of waiting motor vans, through suburbs still more intensely khaki or

horizon blue, and so out upon the great straight poplar-edged road--to

the front. Sometimes one laces through spates of heavy traffic,

sometimes the dusty road is clear ahead, now we pass a vast aviation

camp, now a park of waiting field guns, now an encampment of cavalry.

One turns aside, and abruptly one is in France--France as one knew it

before the war, on a shady secondary road, past a delightful chateau

behind its iron gates, past a beautiful church, and then suddenly we are

in a village street full of stately Indian soldiers.

It betrays no military secret to say that commonly the rare tourist to

the British offensive passes through Albert, with its great modern red

cathedral smashed to pieces and the great gilt Madonna and Child

that once surmounted the tower now, as everyone knows, hanging out

horizontally in an attitude that irresistibly suggests an imminent dive

upon the passing traveller. One looks right up under it.

Presently we begin to see German prisoners. The whole lot look entirely

contented, and are guarded by perhaps a couple of men in khaki. These

German prisoners do not attempt to escape, they have not the slightest

desire for any more fighting, they have done their bit, they say, honour

is satisfied; they give remarkably little trouble. A little way further

on perhaps we pass their cage, a double barbed-wire enclosure with a few

tents and huts within.

A string of covered waggons passes by. I turn and see a number of men

sitting inside and looking almost as cheerful as a beanfeast in Epping

Forest. They make facetious gestures. They have a subdued sing-song going

on. But one of them looks a little sick, and then I notice not very

obtrusive bandages. “Sitting-up cases,” my guide explains.

These are part of the casualties of last night's fight.

The fields on either side are now more evidently in the war zone.

The array of carts, the patches of tents, the coming and going of men

increases. But here are three women harvesting, and presently in a

cornfield are German prisoners working under one old Frenchman. Then

the fields become trampled again. Here is a village, not so very much

knocked about, and passing through it we go slowly beside a long column

of men going up to the front. We scan their collars for signs of some

familiar regiment. These are new men going up for the first time; there

is a sort of solemn elation in many of their faces.

The men coming down are usually smothered in mud or dust, and unless

there has been a fight they look pretty well done up. They stoop under

their equipment, and some of the youngsters drag. One pleasant thing

about this coming down is the welcome of the regimental band, which is

usually at work as soon as the men turn off from the high road. I hear

several bands on the British front; they do much to enhance the general

cheerfulness. On one of these days of my tour I had the pleasure of

seeing the ---th Blankshires coming down after a fight. As we drew

near I saw that they combined an extreme muddiness with an unusual

elasticity. They all seemed to be looking us in the face instead of

being too fagged to bother. Then I noticed a nice grey helmet dangling

from one youngster's bayonet, in fact his eye directed me to it. A man

behind him had a black German helmet of the type best known in English

illustrations; then two more grey appeared. The catch of helmets was

indeed quite considerable. Then I perceived on the road bank above

and marching parallel with this column, a double file of still muddier

Germans. Either they wore caps or went bare-headed. There were no

helmets among them. We do not rob our prisoners but--a helmet is a

weapon. Anyhow, it is an irresistible souvenir.

Now and then one sees afar off an ammunition dump, many hundreds of

stacks of shells--without their detonators as yet--being unloaded from

railway trucks, transferred from the broad gauge to the narrow gauge

line, or loaded onto motor trolleys. Now and then one crosses a railway

line. The railway lines run everywhere behind the British front, the

construction follows the advance day by day. They go up as fast as the

guns. One's guide remarks as the car bumps over the level

crossing, “That is one of Haig's railways.” It is an aspect of the

Commander-in-Chief that has much impressed and pleased the men. And at

last we begin to enter the region of the former Allied trenches, we pass

the old German front line, we pass ruined houses, ruined fields, and

thick patches of clustering wooden crosses and boards where the dead

of the opening assaults lie. There are no more reapers now, there is no

more green upon the fields, there is no green anywhere, scarcely a tree

survives by the roadside, but only overthrown trunks and splintered

stumps; the fields are wildernesses of shell craters and coarse weeds,

the very woods are collections of blasted stems and stripped branches.

This absolutely ravaged and ruined battlefield country extends now along

the front of the Somme offensive for a depth of many miles; across it

the French and British camps and batteries creep forward, the stores,

the dumps, the railways creep forward, in their untiring, victorious

thrust against the German lines. Overhead hum and roar the aeroplanes,

away towards the enemy the humped, blue sausage-shaped kite balloons

brood thoughtfully, and from this point and that, guns, curiously

invisible until they speak, flash suddenly and strike their one short

hammer-blow of sound.

Then one sees an enemy shell drop among the little patch of trees on

the crest to the right, and kick up a great red-black mass of smoke and

dust. We see it, and then we hear the whine of its arrival and at last

the bang. The Germans are blind now, they have lost the air, they are

firing by guesswork and their knowledge of the abandoned territory.

“They think they have got divisional headquarters there,” someone

remarks.... “They haven't. But they keep on.”

In this zone where shells burst the wise automobile stops and tucks

itself away as inconspicuously as possible close up to a heap of ruins.

There is very little traffic on the road now except for a van or so that

hurries up, unloads, and gets back as soon as possible. Mules and men

are taking the stuff the rest of the journey. We are in a flattened

village, all undermined by dug-outs that were in the original German

second line. We report ourselves to a young troglodyte in one of these,

and are given a guide, and so set out on the last part of the journey

to the ultimate point, across the land of shell craters and barbed

wire litter and old and new trenches. We have all put on British steel

helmets, hard but heavy and inelegant head coverings. I can write little

that is printable about these aesthetic crimes. The French and German

helmets are noble and beautiful things. These lumpish _pans._..

They ought to be called by the name of the man who designed them.

Presently we are advised to get into a communication trench. It is not

a very attractive communication trench, and we stick to our track across

the open. Three or four shells shiver overhead, but we decide they are

British shells, going out. We reach a supporting trench in which men are

waiting in a state of nearly insupportable boredom for the midday

stew, the one event of interest in a day-long vigil. Here we are told

imperatively to come right in at once, and we do.

All communication trenches are tortuous and practically endless. On

an offensive front they have vertical sides of unsupported earth and

occasional soakaways for rain, covered by wooden gratings, and they go

on and on and on. At rare intervals they branch, and a notice board says

“To Regent Street,” or “To Oxford Street,” or some such lie. It is all

just trench. For a time you talk, but talking in single file soon palls.

You cease to talk, and trudge. A great number of telephone wires come

into the trench and cross and recross it. You cannot keep clear of them.

Your helmet pings against them and they try to remove it. Sometimes you

have to stop and crawl under wires. Then you wonder what the trench is

like in really wet weather. You hear a shell burst at no great distance.

You pass two pages of _The Strand Magazine._ Perhaps thirty yards on

you pass a cigarette end. After these sensational incidents the trench

quiets down again and continues to wind endlessly--just a sandy,

extremely narrow vertical walled trench. A giant crack.

At last you reach the front line trench. On an offensive sector it has

none of the architectural interest of first line trenches at such places

as Soissons or Arras. It was made a week or so ago by joining up shell

craters, and if all goes well we move into the German trench along by

the line of scraggy trees, at which we peep discreetly, to-morrow night.

We can peep discreetly because just at present our guns are putting

shrapnel over the enemy at the rate of about three shells a minute, the

puffs follow each other up and down the line, and no Germans are staring

out to see us.

The Germans “strafed” this trench overnight, and the men are tired and

sleepy. Our guns away behind us are doing their best now to give them

a rest by strafing the Germans. One or two men are in each forward sap

keeping a look out; the rest sleep, a motionless sleep, in the earthy

shelter pits that have been scooped out. One officer sits by a telephone

under an earth-covered tarpaulin, and a weary man is doing the toilet of

a machine gun. We go on to a shallow trench in which we must stoop, and

which has been badly knocked about.... Here we have to stop. The road to

Berlin is not opened up beyond this point.

My companion on this excursion is a man I have admired for years and

never met until I came out to see the war, a fellow writer. He is a

journalist let loose. Two-thirds of the junior British officers I met

on this journey were really not “army men” at all. One finds that the

apparent subaltern is really a musician, or a musical critic, or an

Egyptologist, or a solicitor, or a cloth manufacturer, or a writer. At

the outbreak of the war my guide dyed his hair to conceal its tell-tale

silver, and having been laughed to scorn by the ordinary recruiting

people, enlisted in the sportsmen's battalion. He was wounded, and then

the authorities discovered that he was likely to be of more use with a

commission and drew him, in spite of considerable resistance, out of the

firing line. To which he always returns whenever he can get a visitor

to take with him as an excuse. He now stood up, fairly high and clear,

explaining casually that the Germans were no longer firing, and showed

me the points of interest.

I had come right up to No Man's Land at last. It was under my chin. The

skyline, the last skyline before the British could look down on Bapaume,

showed a mangy wood and a ruined village, crouching under repeated

gobbings of British shrapnel. “They've got a battery just there, and

we're making it uncomfortable.” No Man's Land itself is a weedy space

broken up by shell craters, with very little barbed wire in front of us

and very little in front of the Germans. “They've got snipers in most of

the craters, and you see them at twilight hopping about from one to the

other.” We have very little wire because we don't mean to stay for very

long in this trench, but the Germans have very little wire because they

have not been able to get it up yet. They never will get it up now....

I had been led to believe that No Man's Land was littered with the

unburied dead, but I saw nothing of the sort at this place. There had

been no German counter attack since our men came up here. But at one

point as we went along the trench there was a dull stench. “Germans, I

think,” said my guide, though I did not see how he could tell.

He looked at his watch and remarked reluctantly, “If you start at once,

you may just do it.”

I wanted to catch the Boulogne boat. It was then just past one in

the afternoon. We met the stew as we returned along the communication

trench, and it smelt very good indeed.... We hurried across the great

spaces of rusty desolation upon which every now and again a German shell

was bursting....

That night I was in my flat in London. I had finished reading the

accumulated letters of some weeks, and I was just going comfortably to

bed.

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