Mention of the Great Deep reminds us of yet another prolific source of

the spectral element in Syrian thought. It was but natural that the

sound of underground rivers and their explanation by the theory of a

world founded on bottomless floods (the “waters underneath the earth”),

should have given to the whole land an air of possession by ghostly

powers. It may have been that same phenomenon which drew down the

imagination of Syria to the subterranean regions, or it may also have

been to some extent the hereditary greed of buried treasure, which every

nation whose buildings have been often overturned is likely to acquire.

Whatever be its explanation, the fact is certain that the underground

element is one which counts for much in the spirit of Syria. Alike in

Christian and in pre-Christian times there seems to have been a most

unwholesome dread of fresh air blowing about holy things. Sacred caves

and pits were among the most characteristic properties of ancient

Semitic religion.[52] As for Christian tradition, it seems positively to

dread the open air. The Nativity in Bethlehem and the Agony in

Gethsemane have each their cave assigned to them, and many another site

has a cave either discovered or actually constructed for its

commemoration. Nature and history have combined to encourage the

underground tendency. Palestine is remarkable for the number and size of

its natural caverns, and it is not slow to add its imaginative touch to

the length of them, connecting distant towns with supposed subterranean

passages. These caves have been used as dwelling-places from very

ancient times. The strange cities of Edom and of Bashan are well known

to all as wonders. And not in these places only, but in many other parts

of the land, men have dwelt beneath the ground. In times of invasion,

for the solitude of hermit life, and in the terrors of persecution,

caves have offered natural places of refuge and of hiding, which have in

many cases been greatly enlarged by excavation. Besides those caverns

whose interest lies in the memory of ancient inhabitants, there are some

of an interest whose terror is not yet departed. These are the

cave-dwellings of lunatics, who in former times often chose the dead for

company and inhabited tombs. Now, in some places they are chained in

black recesses of mountain caverns, where their life must be horrible

indeed. There are also one or two caves in Syria which end in sudden

perpendicular shafts of great depth, where adulteresses are said to meet

their fate. Such modern instances may have reinforced the natural

fascination of the occult which subterranean places offer. But there is

something congenial to it in the spirit of Syria quite apart from these.

If the natural features of Syria thus tempt men towards the ghastly side

of things, her history suggests plenty of material for superstition to

work upon. If the legend were true that no dew nor rain would moisten

the spot where a man had been murdered, Syria would be no longer an

oasis, but the driest of deserts. In a spiritual sense the legend is

truer than it seems. When, in his _Laughing Mill_, Julian Hawthorne

works out the idea of a mystic sympathy in Nature with crimes that have

been done by man, he is reminding us of something which every one of

sensitive spirit has more or less clearly felt. In Nathaniel Hawthorne’s

subtler tales the same idea is worked out in a fashion still more

convincing. There are times and places when it is difficult to resist

the conviction that the material world, in its dumb, unconscious way, is

yet burdened with the weight of man’s evil deeds. In Syria one can

almost hear “the groaning and travailing of the whole creation.” It

seems to be a land waiting the hour of its release, and meanwhile

shrouded in deeper mystery than any other land. Something has happened

here, you feel, which never happened elsewhere; something is going to

happen here again, when the time shall come.

Nothing could better attest this fact than the extraordinary wealth of

legend in Syria. Fragments of Bible story, changed and often distorted

by those who have retold them, are met with every day. Sometimes a story

has passed from Jews to Christians and from Christians to Mohammedans,

increasing steadily in marvellousness and decreasing in verisimilitude

as it passed. Samson, Goliath, and the prophet Jonah are notable cases

in point. A Mohammedan weli marks the spot where the latter was thrown

ashore; but the inventors of this legend have been inconsiderate. The

weli stands at the bend of a shallow sandy beach, where the whale must

either have itself come ashore to deposit the prophet, or have projected

him a distance of at least a hundred yards. A very curious instance of a

similar kind is that of the fall of Jericho as narrated in Joshua vi.

Conder gives two legends, both of which are obviously elaborated forms

of that account. One of these is a Samaritan story of iron walls, and

the other a Mohammedan one of a city of brass whose walls fell after

Aly, the son-in-law of Mohammed, had ridden seven times round them.[53]

Still more curious is a legend related by the same author, which looks

like a Mohammedan version of the Wandering Jew. It tells how, at Abila,

Cain was allowed to lay down the corpse of his brother Abel after

carrying it for a hundred years. The whole story of the Herods has

infested the region of their crimes with the ghosts of their victims. In

Samaria the murdered Mariamne still seems to dwell in her honey, and

Herod and his servants to call her by name and force the pretence that

[Illustration: THE VALLEY OF HINNOM WITH THE HILL OF OFFENCE

The upper portion of the picture to the left is the Hill of Offence,

with the village of Siloam on its lower slopes.]

she is yet alive. The land is sick with ancient crimes whose blood

“crieth from the ground.”

The religions of the land seem to be in league with the powers of

darkness for the propagation of magic lore. It is an extraordinary fact

that Syria has sent forth to the ends of the earth a religion that is

the Eternal Word of God to mankind, and yet herself has reverted to the

religious conceptions of ancient Semitic paganism. One of the most

fundamental of these conceptions was that of a religion whose essential

element is not belief but ritual.[54] While in the West the free play of

reason has tested and interpreted Israel’s faith, and discovered in it

the unique revelation of the living God to man, the worshippers in the

Holy Land itself seem to treat that same faith wholly as a department of

magic lore. Certain rites have to be performed, no matter how

unintelligently, and that is all. All creeds alike share the blame of

this. Druse and Samaritan, Jew, Christian, and Mohammedan vie with one

another to-day in the poor ambition of making the religion of Jehovah

contemptible in the eyes of thinking men who investigate it as it is

practised on its native soil.

Much of the magic of the East is decadent or decayed religion. On rare

occasions a marriage superstition may be met with, such as the

foretelling of marriage destinies by tying green twigs with one

hand,[55] which appears to be the creation of pure romance. But the

great majority of those superstitions which hold the Eastern mind in

bondage are evidently relics of pagan thought incorporated now in

Jewish, Christian, or Moslem creeds, and absorbing all the interest of

those who believe in them. If a Mohammedan saint’s bones flew through

the air from Damascus to Mount Ebal, the Christians can match the

miracle and more, for was not the very house of the Virgin carried off

by angels from Nazareth to Loreto lest the Moslems should desecrate it?

Magic dominates the mind of the East and explains everything there to

this day. Every inscribed stone runs the chance either of being honoured

by a place in the wall of a dwelling or of being heated with fire and

split with water, according to the sort of magic it is supposed to

represent. It is difficult to realise that the men you converse with are

actually living in the world of Tasso’s _Gerusalemme Liberata_, where a

dealer in black art, by his incantation,

unbinds the demons of the deep to do

Deeds without name, or chains them in his cell,

And makes e’en Pluto pale upon the throne of hell.

Yet such is undoubtedly the case. Even the saddle-bags you buy at

Jerusalem--those gorgeous labyrinths of shells and tassels--have a blue

bead concealed somewhere in them to return the stare of any evil eye

that may look upon your horse. To avert the same danger you will see

little boys dressed in girls’ clothes, and specially pretty children

kept dirty and untidy. Lest the dreaded eye should blight the fortunes

of a newborn babe the Jewish Rabbis sometimes hang up the 121st Psalm

on the wall over mother and child. Magic is as useful a substitute for

science as it is for religion. It explains any phenomenon and clears up

any mystery without the trouble of investigation. All great buildings

must have been built by enchantment, so what is the use of speculating

as to their architecture? Western civilisation is, no doubt, a

remarkable affair, but it never occurs to an unsophisticated Syrian that

it is a matter for energetic emulation. The Frank has only been lucky

enough to learn the proper spell. It is easy to see how Syria, with such

views as these, is doomed at once to moral and intellectual stagnation.

The vivid mind of the East is fertile in poetic imagination. Restless

and quick itself, it cannot conceive the Universe otherwise than as

living around it. Everything is alive and aware. All inanimate things

are personified; or, to speak more accurately, they are inhabited by

spiritual beings. Natural phenomena express the purposes of minds hidden

behind them. Every dangerous or adverse experience is regarded as the

work of malice. Human life is beset with ambushed spiritual enemies. The

advantage which their invisibility gives to these over the human

combatants would be enough to put fighting out of the question, were it

not that so many of the spirits are of feeble intelligence and may be

hoodwinked; while all of them have other spirits for their enemies who

may be enlisted on man’s side against them. These spirits are of many

kinds, but they may be classed in two groups, according to their

connection with natural phenomena or with death.

Chief of the former group are the angels, good and bad; and the jinn, or

genii, whom Islam took over from the ancient paganism of Arabia. The

angels are God’s attendants, and have some functions entirely

independent of natural phenomena. Thus the two stones which mark a

Moslem’s grave show the stations of the angels who are to examine him;

and the tuft of hair on his shaven head is (like the Jewish sidelocks)

to enable the Angel Gabriel to bear the man to heaven. Yet the angels

are in many instances personified parts of nature, guardians of the

land, spirits of wind or fire or water, who are obviously the

descendants and the heirs of the ancient local gods.[56] Thus the wicked

angels are supposed to have descended on Mount Hermon, and to have sworn

their oaths there--a belief which adds considerably to the importance of

the great mountain in Syrian estimation. The jinn are the demons of the

desert, lordly and terrible to all who have not the charm which masters

them, obedient as little children to those who have it. They are the

inhabitants of those whirling sandstorms which sweep across the waste.

Some superstitions of this kind may be connected with the former dangers

from wild beasts, which used to haunt the jungles of lower Jordan and

swarm up to the inland territories after an invasion had depopulated

them. Even now there may be seen in Palestine an occasional wolf or

leopard, to say nothing of the jackals which every traveller is sure to

see. Some of the fauna of Palestine are in themselves so strange as to

suggest unearthly affinities. The jerboa, for instance, the jumping

mouse of the desert, merits Browning’s description of him, when in

_Saul_ he says, “there are none such as he for a wonder, half bird and

half mouse.” The lizards, too, seem anything but ordinary respectable

law-abiding animals as they twinkle to and fro among the ruins of old

buildings. It is said that Mohammed refused to eat lizards, considering

that they were the metamorphosed spirits of Israelites.

The spirits that haunt sepulchres are either ghosts of the dead or

ghouls that prey upon their flesh. It is this class of apparition which

appears to have the strongest fascination for the Syrian mind; and its

graveyard lore is the natural sequel to the morbid interest in death

which formed the subject of our preceding chapter. Conder, whose book

gives much interesting information on this whole subject, found it

difficult to keep any Arabs about him at Fusâil, a few miles north of

Jericho, because of their fear of a ghoul in the ruins, who might chance

to desire a change of food were he to see them there. The dead appear to

have undergone a change for the worse in dying. The utmost caution and

politeness are required to prevent their ghosts from doing harm to the

visitors at their tombs, even in the case of men who, while in the body,

were hospitable and friendly persons. Some localities are regarded as

peculiarly dangerous, among which is the reputed site of the stoning of

Stephen and (according to Gordon) of Calvary, near Jerusalem. An Arab

writer of the Middle Ages advises the traveller not to pass that haunted

spot at night.[57]

If, under ordinary conditions, life in Syria is overshadowed and

haunted, the dread becomes far greater when disease has come. The

explanation of disease is the same easy one as that which has deadened

science and distorted religion--magic again. Even when the true cause of

illness has been guessed, it has to be explained in ghostly language.

When plague has broken out in a locality the Jewish Rabbis make the

neighbours of the stricken house empty all jars and vessels, saying that

“the angel of death wipes his sword in liquids.” The malaria of swamps

is set down to the same cause, and it is probable that many of that

mixed multitude who are to be seen sitting chin deep in the hot

sulphur-springs of Gadara or Tiberias regard their cure as due to some

local spirit who happens to be benevolently inclined. In the

neighbourhood of the tomb of a Mohammedan saint, every accident or

ailment is regarded as the work of the dead man. Indeed the main idea of

Syrian medical science is that all or most sickness is possession by

demons, and a common cure is to bore or burn holes in the patient’s

flesh, by which the evil spirit may escape. The treatment of lunacy is

perhaps the saddest case in point. Until Mr. Waldmeyer built his asylum

at Beyrout, there was but one mode of treatment. At certain monasteries

there are caves in which the insane are chained below huge stones, with

hardly space for movement, and are kept there for days in hunger and

filth, in order to drive out the devil. The test for devil-possession is

somewhat crude. The patient is shewn a cross. If he turns from it and

refuses to look he is possessed; if he shews no aversion to it he is

only unwell and is allowed to go. In the Beyrout asylum we were told

that no case of lunacy had been discovered which in any way differed

from the European types of the same disease. The record of cures there,

under the same treatment as that which is practised in the West, is a

most encouraging and hopeful one.

It is true that the bright spirit of the East with its rapid changes and

its unquenchable sparkle of gaiety, has mitigated the horror and

oppressiveness of the spectral there. There are times when one would

almost fancy that the whole of their superstition was a pretence which

was never meant to be taken seriously. In Damascus, and probably

elsewhere, you may buy little rag-dolls supposed to resemble camels.

They are made of bones, covered with patches of many-coloured cloth, and

tricked out with tinsel and strings of beads. We bought two of these

from a young girl in “the street called Straight” for half a franc, and

bore them through the city with a crowd of idlers following us. We

learned afterwards that these were cunning devices to cheat the ghosts.

When you are very sick or in danger you vow a camel to your saint or

friendly spirit--this is how you pay your vow. Poking fun at Hades in

this fashion might seem a dangerous game, and one hardly to be

recommended while any lingering belief in the reality of ghosts

remained. Yet such is Syrian character. This sort of thing persists

along with a deep horror of the other world. The words of Job are not in

the least out of date in Palestine to-day: “Fear came upon me, and

trembling, which made all my bones to shake. Then a spirit passed before

my face; the hair of my flesh stood up. It stood still, but I could not

discern the form thereof; an image was before mine eyes: there was

silence, and I heard a voice.”[58] The horror is all the deeper because

it appears to be seldom brought to clear statement. The spectral world

is undefined, and it has, therefore, all the added power of the unknown,

whose play upon the imagination is so much more strong and subtle than

that of any clear conception, however ghastly.

In this chapter no attempt has been made to distinguish between the

superstitions of Jews, Christians, and Mohammedans in Palestine. As a

matter of fact, there is little to choose between them, and they have

much in common. It is true that every nation has some outlook or other

upon the world of spirits. But each has its own way of regarding the

apparitions; and the kind of spectre which a land believes in is no bad

indication of the tone of the land’s thought and character. About the

fairy-lore of Teutonic nations there is a child-like simplicity and

purity which make

[Illustration: THE VALLEY OF HINNOM, WITH THE HILL OF OFFENCE.

The upper portion of the picture to the left is the Hill of Offence,

with the village of Siloam on its lower slopes.]

that lore wholly refreshing and precious. The nymphs and Pan, whose

ancient monuments we have seen in ancient Palestine, were graceful. But

the spectral element in modern Palestine appears to be almost wholly

morbid and unclean,--the further decadence of a land that has made its

covenant with death. The life a Syrian peasant leads to-day is haunted

by ghostly terrors; it is a life led by leave of the dead, or by a

systematic cunning which plays off one malign spirit against another, or

succeeds in winning a point or two against the grave for the player. It

is a view of life than which surely none can be at once more impudent

and more melancholy.

CHAPTER IV

THE LAND OF THE CROSS

It is a sad view of the spirit of Syria which the last chapters have

offered, yet it is but too true. We must linger yet a little longer

listening to “the sob of the land” before we turn to that which is at

once the explanation and the hope of relief for its long sorrow. Apart

altogether from the ghostly elements in this land of ruins, the mere

melancholy is persistent and depressing as one moves from place to

place. The gloom is so ominous, as to be at times suggestive of a

supernatural curse that broods upon everything with its depressing

weight. The khans outside of villages are in ruins; so are the bridges

over streams, and the castles on the hills. Amid such scenery it is

natural to remember the defeats rather than the glories of the past, and

the national history seems to be one long record of misfortune. In the

modern conditions of life in Palestine the long story of tears and blood

seems to be continued in the haggard desolation of its present.

Two things especially must send this impression home even to the most

casual observer, viz. the heartlessness of toil and the prevalence of

disease. In every country much must always depend on the spirit in which

men labour. Where the walls of its cities rise to music, as the old glad

legends told of Troy and Thebes, there is hope and promise; but here

there is no song to help men’s toil. It is hard and joyless, with little

promise and less hope. With the death of these self-respect also dies;

and work, without incentives to anything which might tempt ambition,

remains merely as a hard necessity and a curse.

Next to its heartless toil the uncured sickness of the land contributes

to the deep sadness of its spirit. Disease seems to stare you everywhere

in the face. Superstition and fatalism combined have blocked all

progress in medical science. The people are naturally healthy; and their

strong constitutions, kept firm by plain living, yield to medical

treatment in a marvellous way. But when any serious accident has

happened, or any dangerous disease infected them, they are utterly

helpless, and things take their course. The medicinal springs form an

exception to this rule, and seem to be the one real healing agency in

the country. Their bluish waters bubble with sulphuretted hydrogen, and

smell abominably, but they cure sicknesses of some kinds. For other

diseases there is no native cure. Those which are most in evidence are

ulcers and inflammatory diseases of the eyes. The natives appear to be

immune so far as malaria is concerned; but a peculiar kind of decline is

not uncommon, in which the emaciation is so great as to reduce the

patient to the appearance of a skeleton, with great lustrous eyes. It

need hardly be said that the characteristic disease of Syria is leprosy.

The first object which attracts the eye after you arrive at the railway

station of Jerusalem is an immense leper hospital. In a case which

created some sensation lately in the south of England, it turned out

that a fraudulent Syrian had been raising money for a non-existent

hospital at Tirzah, which was to accommodate eleven thousand lepers. Of

course the figure was a monstrous one, but the fact that it was invented

shews how terrible a scourge this is. It is a curious circumstance that

the inhabitants of towns do not contract leprosy. It appears in

villages, and the sufferers are at once driven out, to wander to the

larger towns, outside of which they settle in communities or beg by the

wayside. The view of the north-east end of Jerusalem from the Mount of

Olives shews a roadside which is always dotted with these pitiable folk.

For many travellers this is the road of their first journey from the

city, leading over Olivet to Bethany, and they are not likely to forget

that ride. Lepers, in all stages of hideous decay, line the roadside;

real or sham paralytics sprawl and shake in the middle of the path, so

that the horses have actually to pick their way among the bodies of

them. The epileptics appear to be frauds. Their faces are covered, but

they see what is going on well enough to stop shaking when the horses

have passed. The leprosy is all too real. Arms covered with putrid

sores, hands from which the fingers have one after another fallen off,

and husky voices begging from throats already half eaten out--these

cannot be imitated.

As to the causes of Syrian disease, and leprosy in particular, there

seems to be much obscurity. Perhaps the word that comes nearest to an

explanation is uncleanness, and the promise of “a fountain opened for

sin and for uncleanness” may have a physical as well as a spiritual

significance. The land is incredibly contaminated with filth, as the

following quotation shews: “Sir Charles Warren tells us that the soil in

which he made some of his excavations was so saturated with disease

germs that his workmen were often attacked with fever, especially if

they had any sore or scratch on their hands.”[59] It would be hard to

find words more significant than these.

For this state of matters, and for its continuance from generation to

generation, many reasons may be given. The usual explanation of the

whole is the government, with its soldiers and its taxation. The wild

notes of Turkish bugle-calls answering each other across Jerusalem sound

harsh, and as it were blasphemous, and further travel deepens the

resentment rather than removes it. When, behind all the present evils,

one remembers the past, with its massacres and all its other iniquities,

one’s heart grows hot. One Syrian, after narrating a specially

aggravated case of oppression, asked us if we knew “the story of the

prophets Ananias and Sapphira.” We said we had heard it; and he added,

“Ah, in _those_ days God punished at once; now, _God waits_!” Dr.

Thomson somewhere quotes a proverb to the effect that, “Wherever the

hoof of a Turkish horse rests it leaves barrenness behind it”; and all

that is seen in Syria tends to prove that saying but too true. Every

possible experiment in misgovernment seems to have been made here.

Frequent change of governors, underpayment of officials, conscription of

the most ruinous sort, bribery, cruelty, fanaticism, laziness,

sensuality, and stupidity--all are to be seen open and without pretence

at concealment.

Yet in the interest of truth it ought to be remembered that there is

another side to the story. The incident of the horse at Banias[60] made

one understand how a Turk might answer his critics, with some show of

reason, that this was the only sort of government these people could

understand. Of course it might be again replied that it was oppression

that had brought this about. Yet it is perfectly clear that Syrian

character is very far from that of martyred innocence. From whatever

causes it has come about, the fact is certain that in many respects the

moral sense of Palestine is as depraved as that of her oppressors. Her

worst enemy is her own wickedness.

Thus many elements enter into the desolation of the Holy Land, and make

it a place of decaying body and of shiftless spirit, but of all these

elements the ethical is supreme. The very look of the country suggests

this. It is not merely stony; as has been cleverly said, it seems to

have been _stoned_--stoned to death for its sins. The loose boulders of

Judea, and the scattered ruins of old vineyard terraces and village

walls, present all the appearance of flung missiles. This view of the

case is acknowledged freely by the inhabitants themselves, in whose

thoughts judgment has a prominent place. The buried cities of Sodom and

Gomorrah are favourite subjects of reflection with disciples of all the

creeds. A somewhat similar story is told of the Lake of Phiala, a

volcanic mountain lake south of Hermon. Tradition tells of a village

submerged below its waters “to punish the inhabitants for their

inhospitable treatment of travellers,” and there are many other stories

of judgment in the country. Yet the judgment always falls upon some one

else than the narrator of the story, who would not insult your

intelligence by supposing that you thought _him_ in need of judgment.

Even in the familiar quotations from the litany chanted by the Jews at

their Wailing-Place, the confession of sin is conspicuous by its

absence. There is sore mourning over the departed glories of the land,

but the only sins confessed are those of priests and kings long dead. To

all creeds alike the essential element in religion seems to be ritual

performance, and the ideal life is accordingly not one of ethical

character but of formal correctness. And yet in the midst of all this

self-righteous complacency, any one can see that every part of the land

is being judged and is bearing the punishment of sin. Jericho, squatting

sordidly amid the ruins of its ancient Hellenism, looked down upon by

the severe and barren mountain where Jesus hungered, is a monument of

the reality of ethical distinctions as hard and practical facts. They

may be ignored, but they must be reckoned with in the end.

Of the ethical significance of the fate of Palestine there cannot be a

moment’s doubt. It is here that the love and care of God have been met

and foiled by the sin and carelessness of man. In regard to its whole

moral and social life, there is one overmastering conviction which grows

upon the traveller from day to day. That conviction is, that it is a

land which requires and demands righteousness. Nature and man are in

close touch, and each depends upon the other. It is not a desert, where

no amount of labour can produce result; nor is it a luxuriant tropical

country whose fruits fall ripe and untoiled for into man’s hand. It

demands labour, but it answers to it. The least effort of man to be a

man and do his human work meets with immediate and generous response.

Neglected plains and valleys, once rich, are now a wilderness; the most

unpromising hillsides, where terracing and irrigation

[Illustration: THE ROCK-CUT TOMBS OF THE VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT.

These tombs are opn the eastern side of the alley facing the East Wall

of the Temple Area.]

have kept the human side of the compact, are fertile. The labour would

indeed require to be hard and unremitting. Many of the streams are so

deep sunk in their channels that extraordinary enterprise would be

needed to raise their waters for irrigation or to conduct them from

higher levels in long conduits. Yet every remaining arch of an old

aqueduct, and every watermill whose wheel thuds round in its heavy way,

shew that such enterprise is possible. Each of those grooved and

checkered valleys where men with their naked feet open and close the

little gates of clay, and water the fat crops of onion and tomato, shews

how sure is the reward of enterprise. Similarly the terracing reminds us

that soil is as precious as water. Both must be laboured for and fought

for. It is the desert that naturally claims the land and sets the normal

point of view for its inhabitants. Syria is an oasis by the grace of God

and the toil of man.

This alone would suffice to make Palestine an ideal training-ground for

a nation to learn righteousness. The whole theory of Providence which

dominates the earlier Old Testament, and lingers on in popular belief

through the New, is apparent on every mile of these valleys. That theory

was that even in the present life the sin of man will be immediately

punished by adversity, and his righteousness rewarded by prosperity. It

was a theory which had to be abandoned, and the whole marvellous story

of Job shews us the process of the nation’s discarding it. To us it

seems wonderful that it should have been able to survive at all in face

of the inexplicable and at times apparently irrational facts of all

human experience. But the fact that in Syria nature’s rewards and

punishments are so certain and so immediate goes far to explain both its

origin and its persistence.

Such thoughts as these regarding Syria inevitably lead towards one goal.

There is but one symbol in the world which expresses all that depth of

pain which we have found in the history of this sorely-tried land, and

at the same time forces on even the most thoughtless its moral

significance. That symbol is the Cross of Christ. It is still to be seen

very frequently in Syria, generally in its Greek form ([Illustration:

cross]). In this form it is more impressive than in the other. The

oblique lower bar represents a board nailed across the shaft for the

feet of the sufferer to rest on. The realistic effect of this is

surprising, for it brings home to one’s imagination in a quite new way

the terrible fact that men have actually been crucified.

The later history and legend of the cross in Palestine is one of

singular and tragic interest. First of all there is the preposterous

story of St. Helena’s dream--the miraculous discovery of the three

crosses, and the miracle of healing which enabled her to distinguish the

cross of Christ from those of the robbers. Since then the sacred wood

has been tossed about from hand to hand, hunted for, bargained for

sinned for, died for. Its presence in their army comforted the Crusaders

in their misery; the sight of it in the hands of the Saracens filled

them with despair. The restoration of it was among the chief demands

conceded by Saladin when he surrendered Acre to Richard; and when he

failed to deliver it, hostages to the number of 2700 were slaughtered in

sight of the Saracen camp. All through the Crusades it was the badge of

self-devotion to the holy wars, and a strange tale is told of an

occasion on which Louis IX., presenting robes to his courtiers according

to an ancient custom, had crosses secretly embroidered on them, so that

the wearers found themselves committed unawares to the Crusade.

For 1500 years that symbol pointed to the site which the buildings of

the Church of the Holy Sepulchre cover. Godfrey was buried there, and

many a devout soul regarded it as the holiest of holy places. In the

middle of the nineteenth century the question of its authenticity was

raised; and General Gordon, who spent part of the last year before he

went to Khartoum, in Jerusalem, championed the identification of the

hill of Jeremiah’s Grotto, just outside the Damascus Gate, with Calvary.

His point of view was a strange one. It was suggested by the words

“place of a skull,” from which he developed the idea of the Holy City as

the body of the bride of Christ, this hill being the head, Zion the

pleura, and so on. The theory, so far as it regards Calvary, has

appealed to many competent judges who were very far from adopting the

mystical and emblematic views of Gordon. The hill is an old quarry,

within which Jeremiah is supposed by tradition to have written his

Lamentations. It is quite a little hill, whose short and scanty grass

was burnt up with drought when we saw it, leaving a surface of loose

sandy soil. A man crucified here would have the Mount of Olives in his

eyes behind some roof-lines of the city. By a curious coincidence a

rock-hewn tomb, with a groove running in front of the face of it for a

great stone which would close its entrance, has been discovered close

by. It is a grave with only one loculus in it, and it is temptingly like

one’s idea of the Garden Tomb of Joseph; but it is said to be

undoubtedly of later date than the death of Jesus. From one point in the

road, somewhat nearer the Valley of Jehoshaphat, the hollows and caves

of the hill, which here breaks along its length into a small precipice,

bear a striking resemblance to a chapfallen skull. Not that the features

can be examined in anything like accurate detail. But in the evening,

while the sun sets over Jerusalem and the shadows slowly deepen, the

resemblance is sufficient to strike one who had not heard that this was

the place so named. Many arguments have been urged for this new site.

Its proximity to an ancient Jewish cemetery is in favour of the

probability that Joseph’s tomb was there. It was close to the public

highway, as Calvary undoubtedly was. It is also significant that the

gate now known as the Damascus Gate was formerly called St. Stephen’s

Gate; and tradition affirmed that through it St. Stephen was led forth

to his martyrdom. It is probable that the martyrdom took place on the

public execution-ground, where, in the natural course of events, Jesus

and the robbers would also have been crucified. Finally, and most

important, recent explorations have discovered, in various parts of the

city, huge Jewish stones which are believed by advocates of this theory

to be those of the wall which stood there in the time of Christ. By

completing the line of these stones a wall is reconstructed which

encloses the traditional Church of the Holy Sepulchre, while it leaves

Gordon’s site still outside. To get the Holy Sepulchre outside this

wall, as we know the place of the crucifixion was, it would be necessary

to imagine a sharp angular recess in the wall pointing inwards, with

Calvary filling the space within the arms of the angle. It matters

little where the spot was. Yet it would be interesting if the north side

of the city should ultimately claim Him from the west--Nazareth, as it

were, from Rome. The garden and the new grave belong to an English

committee of trustees endowed in 1901. It would indeed be a striking

thing if, after all the idolatry of sites which the vision of St. Helena

started, the real hill and garden where the world’s great tragedy was

enacted should prove to have gone past Roman and Greek worshippers both,

and to have been committed to the hands of Protestants.[61]

No one who has stood upon that hill of Golgotha and thought of the

wondrous past can have failed to perceive a mystical and dark connection

between the crime which has rendered Jerusalem so famous, and all that

deathly and spectral fate which has befallen the spirit of Syria. As we

stand amid the deepening shadows of sunset on the spot where Christ was

crucified, a change seems to come, as the blood-red sky crimsons the

minarets and domes. It is no longer Christ that hangs upon the Cross,

but Palestine. No other land would have crucified Him. Had He come to

Greece He might have been neglected or ridiculed, but certainly not

crucified. For that it needed a religion as bitterly earnest, and at the

same time as morally decayed, as Judaism was then. And that same moral

and spiritual condition which set up the Cross for Jesus, has finished

its course by crucifying the nation that murdered Him. Most literally

this happened in the days when Titus used up all the trees near

Jerusalem to make crosses for Jews. But in Sir John Mandeville’s time

the legend had expanded to this, that at the Crucifixion all the trees

in the world withered and died. Certainly a blight came upon the land of

Palestine. It has sometimes been asserted that the nation which

crucified Jesus Christ can never again rise to national prosperity or

greatness. The forces at work in history are far too subtle and complex

to allow any one to say with assurance what the future may or may not

have in store for a race. But this at least is evident, that meanwhile

the Cross has marked this region for its own; the land is everywhere on

its Cross, and the obvious cause of this is the want of righteousness,

both in oppressors and oppressed. It is a land that cries aloud for

righteousness in its agony.

CHAPTER V

RESURRECTION

In regard to the future of Palestine the outlook of different writers

varies perhaps as much as upon any similar question that could be named.

Every one is familiar with the Utopian dreams which optimistic

constructors of programmes cherish regarding it. On the other hand,

grave and thoughtful writers have sometimes felt the misery of its

present state so heavily as to abandon all hope for the future, and to

acknowledge the most discouraging views as to the possibilities before

the land. Apart from sentiment, or from some favourite method of

interpreting prophecy, the reasons for such pessimism are mainly two.

One is the change of climate, which appears from many indications to be

an unquestionable fact. The other is the destruction of terraces, and

the consequent washing away of soil from the higher regions of the

country. These are serious considerations, which cannot be ignored. If

this view be the correct one, the only permanent continuance of Syria

will be as a symbol of judgment, a kind of Lot’s-wife pillar among the

peoples, a sermon in stone upon the ethical principles which govern the

fortunes of nations. The land will remain as a proverb, but will never

again be a home.

Yet neither these nor any other such forebodings seem to the ordinary

observer quite to be justified. If the climate has changed, may not that

be due to causes that can be remedied? By proper drainage of swamps and

planting of trees, it would seem perfectly possible to modify climatic

conditions to an extent at least sufficient to allow the hope of

prosperous agriculture and pleasant habitation. As to the terraces, if

they have been constructed once they may be reconstructed with hope of

result. There are tracts even in the desert itself where traces of

former cultivation may still be seen. If the uncivilised or

semi-barbarous tribes of the ancient time built up the land until

handfuls of corn waved on the tops of mountains, surely it is not too

much to expect that men armed with all the skill and appliance of modern

engineering may yet repeat the process. The instance of Malta has been

already cited; and, apart from that it is a very dusty world, and soil

accumulates as if by magic where man provides for it a place to rest on.

It seems rash in one little qualified for the task to pronounce judgment

of any sort on the future of Palestine, yet the conviction that all is

not over with the land grows stronger, rather than weaker, with

reflection. Renan speaks of “the little kingdom of Israel, which was in

the highest degree creative, but did not know how to crown its edifice.”

Put in another

[Illustration: THE NORTH-EAST END OF JERUSALEM AND MIZPAH, FROM THE

MOUNT OF OLIVES.

The mountain above the city to the north, with mosque and minaret on its

summit, is the point from which the Crusaders had their first view of

Jerusalem.]

form, this means that the Holy Land is a land of prophecies unfulfilled

or half-fulfilled. But each such prophecy was an inspiration, by which

the highest men saw possibilities for the nation, whose conditions the

lower men failed to realise or to fulfil. Yet the possibilities were

there, as to a great extent they still are there, and, as Coningsby puts

it, “the East is a career.” As to what those possibilities and that

career may actually be, the past history of the land may guide our

speculation. Here, as elsewhere, the lines of hope for the future are

pointed out by the failures of the past. The failure has been due to bad

morality and disloyalty to religious faith; the hope of success lies in

ethical and religious regeneration.

When we sought for an explanation of the misery of Palestine we were

thrown back on the ethical aspect of the case. Had the land been

faithful to her high calling her story would have been very different.

Never was a country honoured with so lofty a trust as hers; never did a

country so often betray her trust. This was the despair of her ancient

lawgiver, and the burden of her later prophets. When Christ came to her,

she knew no better thing to do with Him than to break His heart and to

crucify Him on Calvary. Within the century Jerusalem was crucified in

turn; and soon a Christian Syria took the place of the perished Judaism.

That in its turn decayed. Its creed became artificial, its spirit

effeminate, and its morality corrupt. The spirit of Christianity had

sunk so low in Palestine before the Mussulman occupation as to manifest

its zeal by using every effort to defile that part of the Temple area

which they regarded as the Jewish Holy of Holies. The young faith of

Islam, fresh and vigorous, and not as yet embittered, made an easy

conquest of the effete religion, which has lived since then on

sufferance, lamenting its sufferings, but never realising its desert of

them. To this day the Christian travelling in Syria is oppressed by the

sense of its desertion. Christ has forsaken the desolate shores of the

Sea of Galilee. He walks no more in the streets of Jerusalem. It is the

old story--“They besought Him that He would depart out of their coasts,

and He entered into a ship, and passed over and came unto His own city.”

Yet somehow it is impossible to believe that He has gone from the land

of His earthly home for ever. An incident which occurred to us in

Damascus dwells in our memory with prophetic significance. We had

visited the Great Mosque, which rose upon the ruins of an ancient

Christian church. The original walls were not entirely demolished, and

among the parts built into the new structure was a beautiful gate on

whose lintel may still be deciphered the Greek inscription, “Thy

kingdom, O Christ, is an everlasting kingdom, and Thy dominion endureth

throughout all generations.” To see this inscription we climbed a ladder

in the Jewellers’ Bazaar. At the height of some fifteen feet we stepped

upon a ledge of rather precarious masonry, and after a short scramble

along this came to the lintel, half concealed by a rubble wall running

diagonally across it. A stranger was with us, a devout Christian from a

town far south of Damascus. In the whole city nothing moved him so

deeply as this stone, and he exclaimed, “It was the Christians’

fault--they were so rough, so rude, so ignorant--it was done by the wish

of God--_but He will have it again_.” And He _will_ have it again,

sooner or later! When Omar heard that Mohammed was dead he would not

believe it, but proclaimed in the Mosque of Medina, “The Prophet has

only swooned away!” But Mohammed had died, and it is his dead hand that

has held the land these thirteen centuries. Christ, being raised from

the dead, dieth no more; and the future of the land lies with Christ. To

the Western world He has fulfilled His tremendous claim, “I am the

resurrection and the life,” not only in the hope of immortality, but in

the spring and impulse which His faith has given to national ideals. It

is impossible not to hope for a fulfilment of the promise to the land

where it was first spoken. Looking down from Tabor upon the hill of

Dûhy, one has sight of Endor to the east, while Shunem lies just round

the western slope, and between them is the village of Nain. It is as if

that hill were a sanctuary from Death, where the grave could not hold

its own. Palestine holds in trust for the world those empty graves, and

one grave above all others from which He Himself came forth. Surely she,

too, will rise, by His grace, in a faith and character purer than those

which she has lost.

It would be impossible, within our present limits, to say anything of

the political or national outlook of Syria, or of the many schemes and

agencies which are dealing with such problems. The impression made by

Christian missions, however, must have a word of record before we close

these notes of travel. We have already described at considerable length

the sadness of Palestine. As you journey from place to place the

impression deepens. Sores, exposed and fly-blown, intrude themselves

into the memory of many a wayside and city street. The dirt and stench

of the houses make the sunshine terrible. After weeks of travel the

feeling of a sick land has deepened upon you until it has become an

oppression weighing daily upon your heart. Suddenly you emerge in a

mission-station, and an indescribable feeling of relief possesses you.

There is at last a sound of joy and health. These are the spots of

brightness in a very grey landscape, little centres of life in a land

where so much is morbid. The visiting of sacred places would be the most

selfish of religious sentimentalities if it were done without a painful

sense of helplessness against the misery that surrounds them. The only

thing that turns pity into hope in Palestine is the mission-work that is

being done there. No one can see that work without being filled with an

altogether new enthusiasm for missions. Across the sea, one believes in

them as a part of Christian duty and custom. On the spot, one thanks God

for them as almost unearthly revelations of “sweetness and cleanness,

abundance, power to bless, and Christian love in that loveless land.”

The names of Christian missionaries are imperial names in Syria. It is,

indeed, an empire of hearts, and

[Illustration: THE PLAIN OF JERICHO, LOOKING TOWARDS THE MOUNTAINS OF

MOAB.

The road in the foreground, stretching across the plain, is that from

Jerusalem to Jericho.]

its coming is not with observation. But of its reality and power there

can be no question even now, and its sway is extending year by year. To

those whose Syrian travels have given them the vivid imagination, vivid

almost as memory, of the real fact of Christ in the past, this fact of

Christ in the present is as welcome as it is evident. They feel, and the

East too is feeling, that the Great Healer still goes about the land

doing good. The future, whatever its political course may be, is

religiously full of hope. It may take time--God only knows how long it

will take. The ancient miracles of Christ did not reveal the Healer to

the world in a day. Yet quietly and out of sight, the East is learning

that Christ is indeed the Healer of mankind. It does not as yet confess

this, even to itself. But the hearts of many sufferers know it, and

every Christian knows that certainly “He will have it again.”

Index

Abana, 52, 59, 60

Achor, 47

Acre, 169

Agriculture, 71

Amphitheatres, 107

Angels, 220

Antipatris, 54

Aqueducts, 104

Arabia, Arab, 22, 29, 93 f., 149, 181, 198, 199

Aramaic, 69

Asceticism, 122

Athlit, 169

Baalbek, 108

Banias, 55, 168

Barbarossa, 161

Bashan, 44

Beautiful Gate, 83, 192

Bethel, 8, 102

Bether, 98

Bethlehem, 25, 46, 72, 74, 189, 214, 253

Bethshan, 41, 42, 72, 169

Beyrout, 66

Bible illustrations, 92, 93, 94

Booths, 178

Bridges, 57, 104

Burdens, 181

Cæsarea, 102, 163, 172

Calvary, site of, 78, 83, 114, 196, 222, 235, 236, 276

Capernaum, 64, 101, 105

Carpets, 16

Castles, 168

Caves, 214

Character, Syrian, 15, 33, 62, 232 f.

Children, 111, 187, 218, 231

Christianity, early, 115 f.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 79, 131, 150, 151, 156, 193, 235

Church of the Nativity, 133 f.

Churches, 129, 146, 160, 165, 171

Cities, 22, 65 f.

Clothes, 17, 181

Coast, 43

Colour, 7 f.

Commerce, 75, 78, 157, 159

Constantine, 115, 116

Cross, the, 147, 234 f.

Crusaders, 74, 157 f., 192

Damascus, 12, 13, 21, 35, 53, 60, 66, 75,

85, 137, 143, 146, 174, 185, 191, 193, 223, 241

Damascus Gate, Jerusalem, 53, 83

Dan, 54

Dead Sea, 11, 25, 37, 41, 51, 57, 60, 207

Death, 76, 190 f.

Dervishes, 140

Desert, 12, 14, 15, 20 f.

Detail, observation of, 32

Dew, 51

Disease, 222, 223, 227 f., 244 f.

Dog River, 54, 86

Earthquake, 212

East of Jordan, 22

El Aksa, 147 f.

Elijah, 61

Elisha’s Fountain, 143

Esdraelon, 9, 22, 26, 41, 42, 49, 59

Evil eye, 218

Fanaticism, 188

Fatalism, 201, 202

Fauna, 12, 220, 221

Feasts, 188, 201

Fellahin, 22, 69

Flora, 12, 67, 161, 207, 209, 210, 211

Future, 239 f.

Gadara, 60, 98, 108, 194

Galilee, 9, 45

Games, 185

Gardens, 177

Gaza, 64

Genii, 220

Geography, 32, 161

Gethsemane, 214

Ghosts, 190

Gideon, 64

Gilgals, 47 f.

Glass, 16

Gorges, 47

Great Deep, 53, 213

Greece, 100, 113, 197

Harod, Well of, 64

Hattin, 169

Hauran, 85

Hebron, 9, 46, 64, 74, 75, 90, 196

Hermits, 123

Hermon, 9, 11, 41, 44, 51, 54, 55, 220

Herods, 56, 101, 110, 171

Hezekiah’s aqueduct, 53, 88

Holy Fire, 133, 193

Holy Grail, 162

Hospitality, 35

Houses, 16, 67, 75

Huleh, Lake, 58, 60

Humour, 183

Immortality, 197, 198

Inscriptions, 87

Irrigation, 9, 233

Israelites, 88 f.

Jacob’s dream, 5

Jacob’s Well, 13, 48, 63, 119, 129

Jaffa, 72

Jehoshaphat, Valley of, 79

Jericho, 26, 49, 105, 227, 232

Jeroboam, 78

Jerusalem, 45 f., 53, 65 f., 76 f., 149, 228

Jesus Christ, 4, 5, 10, 31, 46, 49, 69, 84, 113, 114,

150, 173, 177, 204, 242, 243, 245

Jews, 30, 88 f., 195, 201

Jezreel, 41

Job, 96, 224, 233

John the Baptist, 146, 147

Jordan, 13, 23, 28, 40, 41, 42, 44, 49, 51, 55 f., 65, 121, 178

Joy, 188

Judea, 8, 9, 24, 34, 45 f., 47

Khan Minyeh, 64, 105

Kidron, 25, 46, 63

Knights, 151, 164, 170

Landmarks, 175

Lebanon, 44 f., 51

Legends, 62, 69, 103, 134 f., 150, 153

Leontes, 44, 58

Leprosy, 228

Lunacy, 222

Maccabees, 100

Magic, 3, 29, 154, 205, 217 f.

Mar Saba, 25, 27, 123, 125 f.

Martyrs, 116, 123

Medicinal springs, 201, 222, 227

Melancholy, 31

Michmash, 47

Miracle, 3, 4

Mirage, 212

Missions, 95

Mohammedanism, 2, 74, 137 f., 142, 242

Monastic establishments, 122

Morasses, 211

Mosaics, 102, 168

Mosques, 146

Mosque of Omar, 53, 79, 80, 131, 144, 149 f., 159

Mount of Olives, 154

Mountains, 40 f., 49

Muezzin, 143

Music, 31 f.

Mystery, 206

Nablus, 64, 74, 92

Nain, 68

Names of places, 39, 160

Nazareth, 48, 62, 69, 72, 114, 189, 218

Oppression, 229

Past, the, 2

Paul, St., 172

Persecutions, 116

Phœnicia, 10

Pilgrimages, 117 f.

Pools, 211

Prayer, 142

Providence, 233

Quarantana, 5, 46, 49

Rachel, 195

Railway, 86, 182

Relics, 2, 119, 152, 160

Religion of Israel, 39, 65, 97 f., 173 f., 187

Revelation, 97 f.

Richard Cœur de Lion, 163, 167

Rivers, 51 f.

Roads, 77, 99 f., 174

Rib Roy canoe, 57, 91

Romans, 56, 77, 83, 98 f., 107, 108, 113

Russians, 119 f.

Safed, 90

St. Christopher, 135

St. George, 134, 168, 193

Samaria, 9, 45, 47, 48, 102, 110, 146

Samaritans, 92

Sanur, 48

Scents, 179

Sea, 21, 24, 78, 212, 213

Sea of Galilee, 11, 15, 37, 58, 59, 208, 209, 210

Shirky, 26

Siloam, 53, 76, 81, 88

Sites, identification of, 165

Smallness of the land, 37

Solomon, 78, 153

Spectral, the, 205 f.

Springs, 54

Stones, Jewish, 82

Straight Street, 103

Sun, 14, 16, 28

Synagogues, 79

Tabor, 45, 48, 128, 165

Tattoo, 18, 75

Tell Hum, 128

Tents, 22 f.

Terraces, 50, 240

Terror, 206

Tiberias, 90, 91, 201, 209

Titus, 84

Tobacco, 93

Toil, 227

Tombs, 81, 140, 174, 186, 191

Towns, 65 f., 71

Travel, 2, 161

Trees, 67, 210, 211

Truth, 206

Tyre, 10, 72, 75, 160

Underground waters, 52, 213

Unfinishedness, 174

Villages, 11, 15, 65 f.

War, 49, 50

Welis, 141

Wells, 62

Zionists, 90

THE END

FOOTNOTES:

[1] _Eothen_, ch. xxiii.

[2] The natives have at last borrowed the sloping red-tiled roofs from

the Franks who introduced them. Cf. a letter written by Professor G.

A. Smith to the _Spectator_, October 1891.

[3] _Tent Work_, p. 54.

[4] Cf. _The Semites_, Robertson Smith, chaps. iii. and v.

[5] For these and other instances cf. _Historical Geography_, p. 52,

and Appendix I.

[6] Cf. _The Least of all Lands_, Principal Miller, ch. 1.

[7] Cf. p. 15.

[8] _The Rob Roy on the Jordan_, p. 129.

[9] Cf. _The Semites_, Robertson Smith, p. 97.

[10] _Rob Roy_, p. 102.

[11] _Tent Work_, p. 120.

[12] The _Rob Roy_ has contributed gallantly to its exploration. To

her captain’s book this chapter is under many obligations.

[13] _Tent Work_, chaps. xx., xxi.

[14] They are cut with a cross-chiselled margin, and rough outstanding

rustic work in the centre. Their size and weight are enormous. One

writer, whose sense of humour is hardly equal to his knowledge of

Scripture, in describing them is carried away into the statement that

“the Jewish architects, taught by their Phœnician neighbours, bestowed

special care upon the corners of their great buildings. They show a

finish, a solidity, and choice of material superior to other parts....

And how beautifully expressive is the language of the Psalmist, ‘our

daughters are corner-stones, polished after the similitude of a

palace’--one of the corner-stones of this angle weighs over a hundred

tons”!

[15] For an account of these and others cf. Palestine Exploration

Fund, Quarterly Statement, October 1901.

[16] See, however, Professor G. A. Smith’s _Jerusalem_, vol. i. pp.

189, 190.

[17] _Haifa_, Laurence Oliphant, pp. 317, 318.

[18] “Love among the Ruins,” Robert Browning.

[19] _The Dawn of Art_, Martin Conway, pp. 58-76.

[20] St. Symeon was a shepherd from the borderland between Cilicia and

Syria.

[21] Cf. Schaff’s _Church History, Nicene and Post-Nicene Period_,

chap. iv.

[22] St. Jerome, Ep. xiv.

[23] Cf. pp. 27, 30.

[24] _Arabia, the Cradle of Islam_, Zwemer, p. 179.

[25] _Mediæval Christianity_, Schaff, p. 150.

[26] Written in 1904.

[27] _The Crusades_, Cox, p. 72.

[28] _The Crusades_, Cox, p. 215. Of these children only 5000

crossed the Mediterranean. They were sold, when they landed, in the

slave-markets of Alexandria and Algiers.

[29] Map has the credit of introducing the Grail story into Arthurian

romance; Borron of adding the early part which traced it to Joseph of

Arimathea.

[30] Cf. _Chivalry and Crusades_, Stebbing, vol. ii. chaps. iv. and v.

[31] _Haifa_, Laurence Oliphant, p. 189.

[32] _The Semites_, Robertson Smith, p. 29.

[33] _Ibid._ pp. 244, 257.

[34] Deut. xxviii. 47, 48.

[35] Deut. xxviii. 47, 48.

[36] _Robert Browning_, William Sharp, p. 203.

[37] Gen. xxxv. 16, 19.

[38] _Haifa_, pp. 270-272; _Tent Work_, p. 85.

[39] Cf. _The Dawn of Art_, Martin Conway, p. 95, etc.; _Some Aspects

of the Greek Genius_, Professor Butcher, p. 30.

[40] Cf. _Rationalism in Europe_, Leckie, ii. 197.

[41] Cf. the sprightly figure of Glaucon in Plato’s _Republic_, B,

x, § 9: “Do you know,” says Socrates, “that our soul is immortal and

never dies?” “By Jove, I do not,” replies Glaucon. “Are you prepared

to prove that it is?”

[42] _Arabia, the Cradle of Islam_, Zwemer, xiii.

[43] The rags which are hung on trees or fences near certain tombs

suggest the medicinal value of holy places, which attracts men to them

from selfish interests.

[44] _Talisman_, xxviii.

[45] _East of the Jordan_, Dr. Merrill, p. 496.

[46] _Tent Work_, p. 314.

[47] _Marius the Epicurean_, Walter Pater, i. 44.

[48] _Rob Roy on the Jordan_, p. 260.

[49] _Eothen_, ch. viii.

[50] Cf. _Geschichte des Jüdischen Volkes_, Schürer, ii. 819, 820.

[51] Cf. _The Semites_, W. Robertson Smith, iii. v.

[52] Cf. _The Semites_, W. Robertson Smith, pp. 197, etc.

[53] _Tent Work_, pp. 68, 204.

[54] Cf. _The Semites_, Robertson Smith, pp. 16, 17.

[55] _East of the Jordan_, Merrill, p. 193.

[56] The early Christian belief that the gods of paganism were demons

has died hard, if indeed it be quite dead. The “weird horsemen” who

in windy nights are to be heard galloping down lonely valleys lead us

back to that interesting custom by which a horse was actually provided

in some of the temples of the Syrian Herakles, to that the god might

ride forth at night.

[57] _Haifa_, Laurence Oliphant, p. 300.

[58] Job iv. 14-16.

[59] _The Cradle of Christianity_, D. M. Ross, p. 60.

[60] See p. 36.

[61] Professor G. A. Smith, in his chapter on “The Walls of

Jerusalem,” has given the results of an exhaustive study of the

most recent research on this subject, and his conclusion is that

“on our present data it is hopeless to decide between the rival and

contradictory arguments.”--_Jerusalem_, vol. i. p. 249.

The Holy Land · 第 6 / 6 章