in such a remote place. They told us that the inn maintains its own
gardens and dairy, and the steamer brings supplies daily. The inn keeps
open only during the season, which usually extends from May to October,
but there is some one in charge the year round and no one who comes
seeking accommodations is ever turned away. Though the inn is completely
isolated by deep snows from all land communication, the steamer never
fails, since the lake does not freeze, even in the periods of below-zero
weather. We found the big lounging room, with its huge chimney and
crackling log fire, a very comfortable and cheery place to pass the
evening and could easily see how anyone seeking rest and quiet might
elect to sojourn many days at Glenbrook. But Glenbrook was not always
so delightfully quiet and rural! Years ago, back in the early eighties,
it was a good-sized town with a huge saw mill that converted much of
the forest about the lake into lumber. There are still hundreds of old
piles that once supported the wharves, projecting out of the water of
the little bay in front of the hotel—detracting much from the beauty of
the scene.
We were early astir in the morning, wondering what the aspect of our
changeful lake might be in the dawning light; and, sure enough, the
change was there—a cold, steel-blue sheet of water, rippling into silver
in places. Near the shore all was quiet, not a wave lapping the beach as
on the previous night. The mountains beyond the lake were silhouetted
with startling distinctness against a silvery sky, and on many of the
summits were flecks of snow that had outlasted the summer.
We had thought to go on to Reno by the way of Carson City, but we could
not bring ourselves to leave the lake and so we decided to go by the
way of Truckee, even though we had previously covered much of the road.
It proved a fortunate decision, for we saw another shifting of the
wonderful Tahoe scenery—the morning coloring was different from that
of the afternoon and evening. We had the good fortune to pick up an
old inhabitant of Tahoe City whose car had broken down on one of the
heavy grades and who told us much about the lake and the country around
it. He had lived near Tahoe for more than thirty-five years and could
remember the days of the prospectors and sawmills. Nearly all the timber
about the lake is of new growth since the lumbering days. This accounts
for the absence of large trees except in a few spots which escaped the
lumberman's ax. Yellow pines, firs, and cedars prevail, with occasional
sugar pines and some deciduous varieties. It is, indeed, a pity that
Tahoe and the surrounding hills were not set aside as a national park
before so much of the land passed into private hands.
The day was perfect, crystal clear except for a few white clouds
drifting lazily across the sky or resting on the summits of the
mountains beyond the lake. For a few miles out of Tallac we ran through
a pine forest, catching fugitive glimpses of the blue water through
the stately trunks. As we ascended the ridge overlooking Emerald
Bay, exclamations of delight were frequent and enthusiastic as the
magnificent panorama unfolded to our view. The climax was reached when
we paused at the summit of the ridge, where the whole of Tahoe spread
out before us. Just beneath on one hand lay Emerald Bay; on the other
gleamed Cascade Lake—a perfect gem in glorious setting of rock and
tree. And the glory of color that greeted our eyes! Exaggerated in
description? No mortal language ever conveyed a tithe of its iridescent
beauty and never will. One of the ladies exclaimed, "It is like a great
black opal!" and knowing her passion for that gem, we recognized the
sincerity of her tribute. And, indeed, the comparison was not inapt.
There were the elusive, changeful greens and blues, the dark purples,
and the strange, uncertain play of light and color that characterizes
that mysterious gem. Near the shore line the greens predominated,
reaching the deepest intensity in Emerald Bay, just below. Passing
through many variations of color, the greens merged into the deep blues
and farther out in the lake purple hues prevailed. Along the opposite
shore ran the rugged mountain range, the summits touched by cloud-masses
which held forth the threat of a summer shower—and it came just before
we reached the tavern. Overhead the sky was of the deepest azure and
clear save for a few tiny white clouds mirrored in the gloriously tinted
water. Altogether, the scene was a combination of transcendent color
with a setting of rugged yet beautiful country that we have never seen
equaled elsewhere and which we have no words to fittingly describe.
Even the master artist fails here, since he can but express one mood of
the lake—while it has a thousand every day. We have seen the Scotch,
Italian and English lakes; we followed the shores of Constance and
Geneva; we sailed the length of George and Champlain; we admired the
mountain glories of Yellowstone Lake; we viewed Klamath and Crater Lakes
from mountain heights, but none of them matched the wonderful color
variations of Tahoe.
But we are on our way again, descending and climbing long grades
which pass through pine forests and come out on headlands from which
we gain new and entrancing views of lake and mountains. The road was
completed only recently, but it is good in the main, though there are
steep pitches and some rough and dusty stretches. At times it takes
us out of sight of the lake, but we are compensated by wild and rugged
scenery—towering crags and massive walls of gray stone—rising above us
on every hand. The road must have presented considerable engineering
difficulties; our driver points out a place where a mighty rock of a
thousand tons or more was blasted to fragments to clear the way. Far
above us on the mountain crests we see gleaming patches of snow which
the late summer sun has not been able to dispel. We cross clear mountain
streams and wind through groves of pine and spruce. Often as we climb
or descend the long grades we come upon new vistas of the lake and
mountains and occasionally we ask for a moment's delay to admire some
especially beautiful scene. Then we descend almost to the level of the
water, which we see flashing through stately trunks or rippling upon
clear, pebbly beaches. We pass various resorts, each surrounded by pines
and commanding a beautiful view of the lake. As we approach the Tavern
the summer shower that has been threatening begins and to the color
glories of sky and lake are added the diamond-like brilliance of the
big drops, for the sun is unobscured by the clouds. Beyond a stretch
of smooth water, dimmed to dull silver by the blue-gray vapor hanging
over it, a rainbow hovers in front of the faint outlines of the distant
hills. It is a fitting climax to the most inspiring drive in the many
thousands of miles covered by our wanderings.
[Illustration: ON THE SHORE OF LAKE TAHOE
From Original Painting by H. H. Bagg]
A fairly good road has been constructed for nearly three-quarters of
the distance around the lake and a very indifferent wagon road from
Tahoe City to Glenbrook completes the circuit. The latter we did not
cover, being assured that it was very difficult if not impassable for
motors. Plans are under way for a new road around the northern end of
the lake which will enable the motorist to encircle this wonderful body
of water—a trip of about eighty miles—and will afford endless viewpoints
covering scenes of unparalleled beauty. The whole of the road about
the lake ought to be improved—widened and surfaced and some of the
steeper grades and more dangerous turns eliminated. It might then be
the "boulevard" that one enthusiastic writer characterizes it, even in
its present condition, but in our own humble opinion it has a long way
to go before it deserves such a title.
[Illustration:
MAP OF
CALIFORNIA
SHOWING
STEAM AND ELECTRIC RAILROAD LINES
COUNTY SEATS
PRINCIPAL CITIES AND TOWNS]
INDEX
A
Alvarado, Gov., 232, 257.
American River, 366.
Angel's Camp, 356, 361.
Applegate, 360.
Arlington Hotel, 186.
Arrowhead Mountains, 44, 87.
Arroyo Grande, 211.
Auburn, 359-360.
Automobile Club of Southern California, 6-11, 110, 147, 343.
Avalon, 37-42.
Azusa, 83.
B
Bakersfield, 335, 338, 341.
Balboa Beach, 37.
Bear Lake, 90.
Benicia, 293.
Beverly Hills, 24.
Big Oak Flat, 344, 351.
Bodega, 311.
Bonsal, 104.
Bottle Glass Mountain, 288-289.
Buckler, Father, 203-207, 208.
Burbank, Luther, 281-282.
Busch Gardens, 59.
C
Cabrillo, Juan, 62, 63.
Calabasas, 53-54, 179.
Calexico, 141, 142.
Calistoga, 291.
Campo, 135.
Canejo Pass, 179-180.
Carmel-by-the-Sea, 237.
Carmel Mission, 235, 237-241.
Carnegie Solar Observatory, 47.
Carpinteria, 184-185.
Carson, Kit, 144, 230.
Casitas Pass, 183-184, 197.
Castaic, Lake, 341.
Catalina Island, 37-42.
Cazadero, 314.
Chinese Camp, 344, 355, 356, 359.
Claremont, 84.
Clear Lake Valley, 284-286.
Coalinga, 323-325.
Coachella, 133.
Colfax, 358-360.
Coloma, 365.
Colorado River, 127-129, 140.
Colton Hall, 232.
Colton, Walter, 232-233.
Corona Del Mar, 37.
Corona Del Monte, 246.
Coronado Hotel, 114-117, 121.
Coyote Wells, 137-138.
Crane Flat, 353.
Crystal Lake, 362.
Cypress Point, 244-245.
D
Dana, Richard Henry, 171, 194, 236-237.
Del Mar, 95, 109, 119, 144, 159-165.
Del Monte Hotel, 1, 95, 225-228, 246, 317-318.
Diabolus, Mount, 295.
Dixieland, 138.
Dolores Mission, 277, 330.
Donner Lake, 362.
Drake, Sir Francis, 63.
Dublin, 306.
Dutch Flat, 361.
E
El Cajon Pass, 90.
El Camino Real, 110, 150, 157, 158, 171, 174, 199, 210, 252,
272, 275, 330.
El Centro, 129, 133, 140-141.
El Pizmo, 211.
Elsinore, 99-102.
Elsinore Lake, 101.
El Toro, 35, 174.
Emigrant Gap, 358, 361.
Encinitas, 165.
Escondido, 107-108.
Estudillo Mansion, 119-120.
F
Folsom, 364.
Fontana Orchards, 85.
Fort Baker, 317.
Fort Barry, 317.
Fort McArthur, 28.
Fort Rosecrans, 122.
Fort Ross, 317.
"Franciscan Missions of California," 189.
Fremont, Gen. John C., 80, 118, 170, 246, 257, 259, 277, 280.
Fremont Peak, 246.
Fresno, 322-323, 341, 344.
G
Gaviota Pass, 198, 200, 202, 334.
Geyserville, 281.
Glenbrook, 367-369, 373.
Glendale, 48, 56.
Glenwood Mission Inn, 85, 91, 92, 94-98.
Gold Run, 361.
Gonzales, 223.
Grant Hotel, U. S., 110.
Grant National Park, Gen., 338, 341.
Griffith Park, 56-57.
Grosmont, 114, 120.
H
Half Moon Bay, 318-319.
Hamilton, Mount, 265-266, 274.
Harte, Bret, 290, 355, 361, 365.
Healdsburg, 282.
Highlands, 99.
Highland Springs, 284.
Hollywood, 24-25, 43.
Hollywood Mountain, 57.
I
Imperial Valley, 126-143, 376.
J
Jackson, Helen Hunt, 119, 181, 238, 240, 333.
Jacksonville, 355.
James, George Wharton, 80, 216, 277.
Jolon, 219, 327.
K
King City, 220, 325-327.
Kings River, 324.
L
La Crescenta, 55.
La Jolla, 108, 109, 158.
Lakeport, 284.
Lankershim, 54, 179.
La Purisima Concepcion Mission, 206, 220, 261, 323, 332.
Larkin, Thos., 231.
Lasuen, Father Francis, 80, 204, 211, 218, 223, 239, 256, 261,
270, 333.
Laurel Canyon, 43.
Lebec, 341.
Lick Observatory, 264-268, 274.
Lobos Point, 239-240, 247-249.
Loma, Point, 69, 120-125.
Lompoc, 220, 332.
Long Beach, 25-27, 261.
Longpre, Paul de, 24-25.
Lookout Mountain, 43-44.
Lopez, Francisco, 80-81.
Los Angeles, 1, 2, 11-15, 19, 82.
Los Gatos, 263.
Los Olivos, 201, 208.
M
McGroarty, John S., 67, 162, 195.
Madera, 344.
Malibu Rancho, 50.
Mariposa Grove, 258, 347.
Matilija Hot Springs, 335.
Mattei's Tavern, 209-210.
Merced, 321.
Mesa Grande, 146.
Mexicali, 141.
Miami Lodge, 344, 346.
Miller, Frank, 67, 97-98, 217.
Miller, Joaquin, 225.
Miramar, 108.
Miramar Hotel Colony, 193.
Mission San Jose, 264, 269-270.
Modesto, 321, 341.
Mohave Desert, 89.
Mokelumne, 356.
Monrovia, 82, 83.
Montecito, 196.
Monterey, 70, 79, 119, 163, 225-252, 281.
Monte Rio, 315.
Moran, Thos., 224.
Mountain Spring, 136.
Muir, John, 195.
N
Napa, 293.
Napa Valley, 282, 288.
Naples, (Los Angeles Co.), 27.
Naples (Santa Barbara Co.), 201.
National Soldiers' Home, 22-23.
Native Sons of the Golden West, 220, 230.
Newport Beach, 30, 31, 36-37.
New River, 128, 140.
Nilands, 142.
Nordhoff, 335.
O
Oakland, 305, 317.
Ocean Park, 20-21.
Oceanside, 165, 170.
O'Keefe, Father, 168-169, 191.
"Old Baldy," 82-83.
"Old Missions of California, The," 80-81.
Olema, 316.
Orange, 34.
O'Sullivan, Father St. John, 172-173, 176-177.
"Our Lady of the Solitude" Mission, 220-223, 261.
Owens River Aqueduct, 54, 79, 340.
Oxnard, 180.
P
Pala, 104-105, 148.
Pacific Grove, 243, 245.
Pala Mission, 105-107.
Palatingwa Indians, 107.
Palm Springs, 132-133.
Palo Alto, 273-275.
Palomar, Mount, 149, 162.
Pasadena, 59, 60.
Paso Robles, 214-215, 323, 331.
Pebble Beach, 245.
Petaluma, 278.
Pieta Station, 283.
Placerville, 358, 364-366.
Port Costa, 293.
Portola, 69.
Priest's, 355.
Q
"Quo Vadis," 35.
R
Ramona, 144-145.
"Ramona," 102, 119, 156, 181.
Rancho La Brae, 59.
Raymond, 344.
Redlands, 86, 91, 93, 99.
Red Mountain, 103.
Redondo, 30.
Riverside, 85, 91-98, 100, 146.
Roosevelt, Theodore, 129.
Rubidoux Mountain, 92-94.
Russian River, 282, 313, 315.
S
Sacramento, 126, 280, 308, 308, 358.
Saint Helena, Mt., 44, 290-293, 311.
Salinas, 224, 252.
Salinas River, 215, 218, 223.
Salton Sea, 128, 133, 140.
San Andreas, 356.
San Antonio Mission, 63, 97, 219-220, 257, 323, 329-331.
San Antonio, Mt., 82.
San Bernardino, 85, 86, 93, 132.
San Bernardino Mtns., 125, 162.
San Buenaventura Mission, 178, 180, 182.
San Carlos Borromeo, 68, 229.
San Carlos Church, 235-236, 242.
San Clemente, 162.
San Diego, 110-125, 150.
San Diego Back Country, 134, 142-149.
San Diego Mission, 110-113.
San Fernando, 64, 79-81, 180, 335.
San Fernando Mission, 74-80, 140, 178.
San Fernando Valley, 54-55, 178.
San Francisco, 1, 7, 62, 275-277, 293, 317.
San Francisco de Asis Mission, 178.
San Gabriel Archangel Mission, 64-74, 79, 86, 111, 330.
San Gabriel Mountains, 52.
San Gorgonio, Mt., 100.
San Jacinto, Mt., 100, 162.
San Joaquin Delta, 294, 297-305.
San Juan Bautista Mission, 97, 252-257.
San Juan Capistrano Mission, 73, 171-177, 222, 253-254.
San Jose, 260, 263-264.
San Jose, Mission, 264, 269-270.
San Luis Obispo Mission, 70, 211-214, 261.
San Luis Rey Mission, 105, 166-170, 190.
San Luis Rey River, 104, 148.
San Marcos Pass, 194, 199.
San Miguel Mission, 215-218, 255.
San Pasqual River, 144.
San Pedro, 27-28, 38, 62.
San Rafael Mission, 223, 261, 277-278.
Santa Ana, 33, 177.
Santa Ana River, 93.
Santa Barbara, 74, 178-198.
Santa Barbara Mission, 178-198, 261.
Santa Catalina Island, 27, 36, 37, 162.
Santa Clara, 271-273.
Santa Clara College, 271-272.
Santa Clara Mission, 271-272.
Santa Clara Valley, 179, 265.
Santa Cruz, 254, 257-258, 320.
Santa Cruz (Island), 195.
Santa Cruz Mission, 223, 260-261.
Santa Cruz Mountains, 262, 270.
Santa Lucias Mountains, 328.
Santa Maria, 210.
Santa Monica, 20-21.
Santa Monica Mountains, 21, 43, 51-52.
Santa Paula, 335.
Santa Rosa, 281-282.
Santa Rosa (Island) 195.
Santa Ynez, 200.
Santa Ynez Mission, 199, 202-208.
Santa Ynez Mountains, 196, 201.
Santa Ysabel, 145, 148.
Saugus, 181, 335, 339, 342.
Sausalito, 282, 286, 277, 312, 316.
Sebastopol, 311.
Sequoia Nat. Park, 338.
Serra, Father Junipero, 63, 70-74, 93, 111, 118, 119, 151, 176,
182, 190, 211, 229, 230, 236, 238-240, 256, 330.
Sevastopol, 281.
Shasta, Mt., 360.
Sherman, Gen., 231-232.
Sherman Institute, 91.
Ship Island, 39.
Sierra Madre, 61.
Silverado Canyon, 34.
Simonneau, Jules, 233.
Sloat, Commodore, 229, 242.
Smiley Heights, 98, 99.
Soledad, 220-223, 261.
Sonoma, 151, 178, 278-281.
Sonora, 356.
Southern Pacific R. R., 129, 131, 285.
Squirrel Inn, 88.
Stanford Jr. University, Leland, 273-274.
Stevenson, Robert Louis, 233-234, 244, 289, 290.
Stockton, 296-307, 341, 344, 357.
Stockton, Frank, 88.
Stratford Inn, 159.
Summerland, 185.
Superstition Mountains, 139.
Sutter, Gen. John H., 309, 312.
Sycamore Canyon, 196.
T
Tahoe City, 373.
Tahoe, Lake, 196, 343, 358-373.
Tejon Pass, 335, 338.
Temecula, 102, 103, 148.
Theosophical Institute, 121-125.
Tia Juana, 18, 117-118.
Tingley, Katherine, 124, 186.
Topango Canyon, 49.
Torrey, John, 158.
Torrey Pines, 158, 163.
Truckee, 362, 370.
Tujunga River, 56.
Tulare Lake, 336-337.
Tuolumne Grove, 353.
Tuttletown, 356.
U
Upland, 84.
V
Vallejo, Gen., 278-279, 280.
Vancouver, George, 241.
Van Nuys, 54, 179.
Van Orten, Lake, 362.
Venice, 19-20, 30, 31.
Ventura, 51, 178, 180, 181, 334.
Verdugo Mountains, 55, 56.
Viscaino, 63, 228, 230, 236.
W
Warner's Hot Springs, 145, 148.
Warren's Ranch, 135.
Watsonville, 257.
Wawona, 346-347.
White, Stewart Edward, 194.
Whitney, Mount, 337.
Whittier, 32.
Wilson, Mount, 44-48, 61, 82, 266.
Wright, Harold Bell, 130.
Y
Yosemite Valley, 343-352.
Yuba River, 361.
Z
Zalvidea, Fray Jose, 174-175.