II

One must recall the effect of such a gentle fantasy as his with some

such emotion as one recalls a pleasant tale unexpectedly told when one

feared a repetition of stale commonplaces, and I now feel a pang of

retroactive self-reproach for not spending the whole evening after

dinner in reading up the story of that most storied city where this

Spanish castle received us. What better could I have done in the smoky

warmth of our hearth-fire than to con, by the light of the electric

bulb dangling overhead, its annals in some such voluntarily quaint and

unconsciously old-fashioned volume as Irving’s _Legends of the Conquest

of Spain;_ or to read in some such (if there is any such other)

imperishably actual and unfadingly brilliant record of impressions as

Gautier’s _Voyage en Espagne,_ the miserably tragic tale of that poor,

wicked, over-punished last of the Gothic kings, Don Roderick? It comes

to much the same effect in both, and as I knew it already from the notes

to Scott’s poem of Don Roderick, which I had read sixty years before in

the loft of our log cabin (long before the era of my unguided Spanish

studies), I found it better to go to bed after a day which had not been

without its pains as well as pleasures. I could recall the story well

enough for all purposes of the imagination as I found it in the fine

print of those notes, and if I could believe the reader did not know

it I would tell him now how this wretched Don Roderick betrayed the

daughter of Count Julian whom her father had intrusted to him here in

his capital of Toledo, when, with the rest of Spain, it had submitted to

his rule. That was in the eighth century when the hearts of kings were

more easily corrupted by power than perhaps in the twentieth; and it

is possible that there was a good deal of politics mixed up with Count

Julian’s passion for revenge on the king, when he invited the Moors to

invade his native land and helped them overrun it. The conquest, let me

remind the reader, was also abetted by the Jews who had been flourishing

mightily under the Gothic anarchy, but whom Don Roderick had reduced to

a choice between exile or slavery when he came to full power. Every one

knows how in a few weeks the whole peninsula fell before the invaders.

Toledo fell after the battle of Guadalete, where even the Bishop of

Seville fought on their side, and Roderick was lastingly numbered among

the missing, and was no doubt killed, as nothing has since been heard

of him. It was not until nearly three hundred years afterward that the

Christians recovered the city. By this time they were no longer Arians,

but good Catholics; so good that Philip II. himself, one of the best

of Catholics (as I have told), is said to have removed the capital to

Madrid because he could not endure the still more scrupulous Catholicity

of the Toledan Bishop.

Nobody is obliged to believe this, but I should be sorry if any reader

of mine questioned the insurpassable antiquity of Toledo, as attested by

a cloud of chroniclers. Theophile Gautier notes that “the most moderate

place the epoch of its foundation before the Deluge,” and he does not

see why they do not put the time “under the pre-Adamite kings, some

years before the creation of the world. Some attribute the honor of

laying its first stone to Jubal, others to the Greek; some to the Roman

consuls Tolmor and Brutus; some to the Jews who entered Spain with

Nebuchadnezzar, resting their theory on the etymology of Toledo, which

comes from Toledoth, a Hebrew word signifying generations, because the

Twelve Tribes had helped to build and people it.”

Familiar Spanish Travels · 第 58 / 111 题