Chapter I. Arrival -- Little Missouri -- A game country --

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PUBLICATIONS OF THE

ROOSEVELT MEMORIAL ASSOCIATION

I. ROOSEVELT IN THE BAD LANDS

COMMITTEE ON PUBLICATIONS

ROOSEVELT MEMORIAL ASSOCIATION INC.

R. J. CUDDIHY

Arthur W. PAGE

Mark SULLIVAN

E. A. van VALKENBURG

[Illustration: Theodore Roosevelt. On the round-up, 1885.]

ROOSEVELT

IN THE BAD LANDS

BY

HERMANN HAGEDORN

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS

[Illustration: Editor's arm.]

BOSTON AND NEW YORK

HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY

The Riverside Press Cambridge

1921

COPYRIGHT, 1921, BY HERMANN HAGEDORN

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

TO

WILLIAM BOYCE THOMPSON

CAPTAIN OF INDUSTRY

AND DREAMER OF DREAMS

It was still the Wild West in those days, the Far West, the West of

Owen Wister's stories and Frederic Remington's drawings, the West of

the Indian and the buffalo-hunter, the soldier and the cowpuncher.

That land of the West has gone now, "gone, gone with lost Atlantis,"

gone to the isle of ghosts and of strange dead memories. It was a land

of vast silent spaces, of lonely rivers, and of plains where the wild

game stared at the passing horseman. It was a land of scattered

ranches, of herds of long-horned cattle, and of reckless riders who

unmoved looked in the eyes of life or death. In that land we led a

free and hardy life, with horse and with rifle. We worked under the

scorching midsummer sun, when the wide plains shimmered and wavered in

the heat; and we knew the freezing misery of riding night guard round

the cattle in the late fall round-up. In the soft springtime the stars

were glorious in our eyes each night before we fell asleep; and in the

winter we rode through blinding blizzards, when the driven snow-dust

burnt our faces. There were monotonous days, as we guided the trail

cattle or the beef herds, hour after hour, at the slowest of walks;

and minutes or hours teeming with excitement as we stopped stampedes

or swam the herds across rivers treacherous with quicksands or brimmed

with running ice. We knew toil and hardship and hunger and thirst; and

we saw men die violent deaths as they worked among the horses and

cattle, or fought in evil feuds with one another; but we felt the beat

of hardy life in our veins, and ours was the glory of work and the joy

of living.

Theodore ROOSEVELT

(_Autobiography_)

PREFACE

To write any book is an adventure, but to write this book has been the

kind of gay and romantic experience that makes any man who has

partaken of it a debtor forever to the Giver of Delights. Historical

research, contrary to popular opinion, is one of the most thrilling of

occupations, but I question whether any biographer has ever had a

better time gathering his material than I have had. Amid the old

scenes, the old epic life of the frontier has been re-created for me

by the men who were the leading actors in it. But my contact with it

has not been only vicarious. In the course of this most grateful of

labors I have myself come to know something of the life that Roosevelt

knew thirty-five years ago--the hot desolation of noon in the

scarred butte country; the magic of dawn and dusk when the long

shadows crept across the coulees and woke them to unexpected beauty;

the solitude of the prairies, that have the vastness without the

malignancy of the sea. I have come to know the thrill and the dust and

the cattle-odors of the round-up; the warm companionship of the

ranchman's dinner-table; such profanity as I never expect to hear

again; singing and yarns and hints of the tragedy of prairie women;

and, at the height of a barbecue, the appalling intrusion of death. I

have felt in all its potency the spell which the "short-grass

country" cast over Theodore Roosevelt; and I cannot hear the word

Dakota without feeling a stirring in my blood.

It was Mr. Roosevelt himself who gave me the impulse to write this

book, and it was the letters of introduction which he wrote early in

1918 which made it possible for me to secure the friendly interest of

the men who knew most about his life on the ranch and the range. "If

you want to know what I was like when I had bark on," he said, "you

ought to talk to Bill Sewall and Merrifield and Sylvane Ferris and his

brother Joe." I was writing a book about him for boys at the time, and

again and again he said, "I want you to go out to Dakota!" On one

occasion I referred to his life in the Bad Lands as "a kind of idyl."

"That's it!" he exclaimed. "That's it! That's exactly what it was!"

The wish he had expressed, living, became in a sense a command after

he was dead. The letters he had given me unsealed the lips of the men

who, for thirty-five years, had steadily refused to reveal to

"newspaper fellers" the intimate story of the romantic life they had

shared with the man who became President of the United States. From

Dickinson, North Dakota, came Sylvane Ferris; from Terry, Montana,

came "Joe" Ferris; from Somers, Montana, came "Bill" Merrifield, and,

on their old stamping-ground along the Little Missouri, unfolded, bit

by bit, the story of the four years of Roosevelt's active ranching

life. In the deserted bar-room of the old "Metropolitan Hotel" at

Medora (rechristened the "Rough Riders"); on the ruins of the Maltese

Cross cabin and under the murmuring cottonwoods at Elkhorn, they spun

their joyous yarns. Apart from what they had to tell, it was worth

traveling two thirds across the Continent to come to know these

figures of an heroic age; and to sit at Sylvane Ferris's side as he

drove his Overland along the trails of the Bad Lands and through the

quicksands of the Little Missouri, was in itself not an insignificant

adventure. Mrs. Margaret Roberts, at Dickinson, had her own stories to

tell; and in the wilderness forty miles west of Lake McDonald, on the

Idaho border, John Reuter, known to Roosevelt as "Dutch Wannigan,"

told, as no one else could, of the time he was nearly killed by the

Marquis de Mores. A year later it was Schuyler Lebo who guided me in a

further search for material, fifty miles south from Medora by

buckboard through the wild, fantastic beauty of the Bad Lands. I doubt

if there is any one I missed who had anything to tell of Roosevelt.

So far as any facts relating to Roosevelt or to the Western frontier

can ever be described as "cold," it is a narrative of cold facts which

I have attempted to tell in this book. The truth, in this case, is

romantic enough and needs no embellishment. I have made every effort

to verify my narrative, but, to some extent, I have had to depend,

inevitably, on the character of the men and women who gave me my data,

as every historical writer must who deals not with documents (which

may, of course, themselves be mendacious), but with what is, in a

sense, "raw material." One highly dramatic story, dealing with

Roosevelt's defiance of a certain desperate character, which has at

different times during the past twenty-five years been printed in

leading newspapers and periodicals, told always by the same writer, I

have had to reject because I could find no verification of it, though

I think it may well be true.

In weaving my material into a connected narrative I have consciously

departed from fact in only one respect. Certain names--a half-dozen

or so in all--are fictitious. In certain cases, in which the story I

had to tell might give needless offense to the actors in it still

surviving, or to their children, and in which I was consequently

confronted by the alternative of rejecting the story in question or

changing the names, I chose the latter course without hesitation. It

is quite unessential, for instance, what the real name was of the lady

known in this book as "Mrs. Cummins"; but her story is an important

element in the narrative. To those who may recognize themselves under

the light veil I have thrown over their portraits, and may feel

grieved, I can only say that, inasmuch as they were inhabitants of the

Bad Lands when Theodore Roosevelt and the Marquis de Mores shaped

their destinies there for good or ill, they became historical figures

and must take their chances at the judgment seat of posterity with

Nebuchadnezzar and Cæsar and St. Augustine and Calamity Jane.

The Northwestern newspapers of the middle eighties contain much

valuable material, not only about the Marquis and his romantic

enterprises, which greatly interested the public, but about Roosevelt

himself. The files of the _Press_ of Dickinson, North Dakota, and the

_Pioneer_ of Mandan, have proved especially useful, though scarcely

more useful than those of the Bismarck _Tribune_, the Minneapolis

_Journal_, and the _Dispatch_ and _Pioneer Press_ of St. Paul. The cut

of Roosevelt's cattle-brands, printed on the jacket, is reproduced

from the _Stockgrowers' Journal_ of Miles City. I have sought high and

low for copies of the _Bad Lands Cowboy_, published in Medora, but

only one copy--Joe Ferris's--has come to light. "'Bad-man'

Finnegan," it relates among other things, "is serving time in the

Bismarck penitentiary for stealing Theodore Roosevelt's boat." But

that is a part of the story; and this is only a Preface.

Colonel Roosevelt's own books, notably "Hunting Trips of a Ranchman,"

"Ranch Life and the Hunting Trail," "The Wilderness Hunter," and the

"Autobiography," have furnished me an important part of my material,

giving me minute details of his hunting experiences which I could have

secured nowhere else; and I am indebted to the publishers, Messrs. G.

P. Putnam's Sons, Messrs. Charles Scribner's Sons, and the Century

Company, for permission to use them. I am indebted to the following

publishers, likewise, for permission to reprint certain verses as

chapter headings: Messrs. Houghton Mifflin Company ("Riders of the

Stars," by Henry Herbert Knibbs, and "Songs of Men," edited by Robert

Frothingham); the Macmillan Company ("Cowboy Songs," edited by

Professor John A. Lomax); and Mr. Richard G. Badger ("Sun and Saddle

Leather," by Badger Clark). I am especially indebted to Mr.

Roosevelt's sisters, Mrs. W. S. Cowles and Mrs. Douglas Robinson, and

to the Honorable Henry Cabot Lodge for the opportunity to examine the

unpublished letters of Colonel Roosevelt in their possession and to

reprint excerpts from them. Through the courtesy of Mr. Clarence L.

Hay I have been able to print a part of an extraordinary letter

written by President Roosevelt to Secretary Hay in 1903; through the

courtesy of Messrs. Harper and Brothers I have been permitted to make

use of material in "Bill Sewall's story of T. R.," by William W.

Sewall, and in "The Boys' Life of Theodore Roosevelt."

Partly from books and letters, partly from documents and old

newspapers, I have gathered bit by bit the story of Roosevelt's life

as a ranchman; but my main sources of material have been the men and

women (scattered now literally from Maine to the State of Washington)

who were Roosevelt's companions and friends. It is difficult to

express adequately my gratitude to them for their unfailing

helpfulness; their willingness to let themselves be quizzed, hour

after hour, and to answer, in some cases, a very drumfire of

importunate letters; above all for their resistance, to what must at

times have been an almost overpowering temptation, to "string the

tenderfoot." They took my inquisition with grave seriousness and gave

me what they had without reserve and without elaboration.

There are five men to whom I am peculiarly indebted: to Mr. Sylvanus

M. Ferris and Mr. A. W. Merrifield, who were Roosevelt's

ranch-partners at the Maltese Cross Ranch, and to Mr. William W.

Sewall, of Island Falls, Maine, who was his foreman at Elkhorn; to Mr.

Lincoln A. Lang, of Philadelphia, who, having the seeing eye, has

helped me more than any one else to visualize the men and women who

played the prominent parts in the life of Medora; and to Mr. A. T.

Packard, of Chicago, founder and editor of the _Bad Lands Cowboy_, who

told me much of the efforts to bring law and order into Billings

County. To Mr. Joseph A. Ferris and Mrs. Ferris; to Mr. William T.

Dantz, of Vineland, New Jersey; to Mrs. Margaret Roberts and Dr.

Victor H. Stickney, both of Dickinson, North Dakota; to Mr. George

Myers, of Townsend, Montana; to Mr. John Reuter, to Mr. John C.

Fisher, of Vancouver, British Columbia, and to Mr. John Willis, of

Glasgow, Montana, Roosevelt's companion of many hunts, I am indebted

to a scarcely less degree. Others who gave me important assistance

were Mr. Howard Eaton, of Wolf, Wyoming, and Mr. "Pete" Pellessier of

Sheridan, Wyoming; Mr. James Harmon, Mr. Oren Kendley, Mr. Schuyler

Lebo, and Mr. William McCarty, of Medora, North Dakota; Mr. William G.

Lang, of Baker, Montana; Mr. W. H. Fortier, of Spokane, Washington;

Mr. Edward A. Allen and Mr. George F. Will, of Bismarck, North

Dakota; Mr. J. B. Brubaker, of Terry; Mr. Laton A. Huffman and Mr. C.

W. Butler, of Miles City, Montana; Dr. Alexander Lambert, of New York

City; Dr. Herman Haupt, of Setauket, New York; the Reverend Edgar

Haupt, of St. Paul, Minnesota; Mr. Alfred White, of Dickinson; Mr.

Dwight Smith, of Chicago; Mrs. Granville Stuart, of Grantsdale,

Montana; Mr. Frank B. Linderman, of Somers, Montana; Mr. C. R. Greer,

of Hamilton, Ohio; Mrs. George Sarchet, of New England, South Dakota;

and especially, my secretary, Miss Gisela Westhoff.

I have enjoyed the writing-man's rarest privilege--the assistance of

wise and friendly critics, notably Professor Albert Bushnell Hart, of

Harvard; President John Grier Hibben, of Princeton; and Professor

William A. Dunning, of Columbia, who generously consented to serve as

a committee of the Roosevelt Memorial Association to examine my

manuscript; and Dr. John A. Lester, of the Hill School, who has read

the proof and given me valuable suggestions.

To all these friendly helpers my gratitude is deep. My warmest thanks,

however, are due Mr. William Boyce Thompson, President of the

Roosevelt Memorial Association, whose quick imagination and effective

interest made possible the collection of the material under the

auspices of the Association.

H. H.

FAIRFIELD, CONNECTICUT

_June 20, 1921_

CONTENTS

Introduction ................................................... xxv

Chapter I. Arrival -- Little Missouri -- A game country --

Joe Ferris -- The trail to Chimney Butte -- The three

Canadians -- The buckskin mare ................................ 3

Roosevelt in the Bad Lands · 第 1 / 32 章