[Illustration: Map of St. John River]
A
GUIDE-BOOK
OF
FLORIDA AND THE SOUTH,
FOR
TOURISTS, INVALIDS AND EMIGRANTS,
WITH A MAP OF THE ST. JOHN RIVER,
BY DANIEL G. BRINTON, A. M., M. D.,
PHILADELPHIA:
GEORGE MACLEAN, 719 SANSOM STREET.
JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA:
COLUMBUS DREW.
1869.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1869, by
DANIEL G. BRINTON, A. M., M. D.,
In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States, in
and for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.
FROM THE PRESS OF WYLIE & GRIEST,
Inquirer Printing House and Book Bindery, Lancaster, Penn’a.
PREFACE.
This unpretending little book is designed to give the visitor to Florida
such information as will make his trip more useful and more pleasant. In
writing it I have had in mind the excellent European Guide-Books of Karl
Bædeker, the best, to my mind, ever published. Though I have not
followed his plan very closely, I have done so to the extent the
character of our country seems to allow.
I have borrowed from him the use of the asterisk (*) to denote that the
object so designated is especially noteworthy, or that the hotel thus
distinguished is known to me to be well-kept, either from my own
observation or that of friends.
Most of the localities are described from my own notes taken during an
extended tour through the peninsula, but for much respecting railroad
fare, accommodations, and charges, I am indebted to a large number of
tourists and correspondents who have related to me their experience. To
all these I express my warmest thanks for their assistance.
As of course such matters are constantly changing, and as I shall be
most desirous to correct any errors, and bring the work fully up to the
times in future editions, I shall esteem it a particular favor if those
who use this book will forward me any notes or observation which will
aid me in improving it. Such communications may be addressed “care of
the Penn Publishing Co., 710 Sansom Street, Philadelphia, Penna.”
The map of the St. John River is based on that drawn by my friend, Mr.
H. Lindenkohl, U. S. Coast Survey.
PHILADELPHIA, _August, 1869_.
CONTENTS.
PAGE.
Preface iii
Contents iv
PRELIMINARY HINTS.
1. Season for Southern Travel 9
2. Preparations for the Journey 10
PART I.--SOUTHERN ROUTES.
1. Steamship Lines 13
2. Washington to Richmond 14
3. Richmond to Charleston 18
4. Aiken, S. C., and the Southern Highlands 22
5. Charleston to Savannah 26
6. Savannah to Jacksonville 29
PART II.--FLORIDA.
1. Historical 32
2. Books and Maps 35
3. Physical Geography of Florida. 1. Geographical Formation.
2. Soil and Crops. 3. Climate and Health.
4. Vegetable and Animal Life 37
4. The St. John River and St. Augustine (Indian River,) 52
5. Jacksonville to Tallahassee, Quincy, and St. Marks 81
6. The Oklawaha River and the Silver Spring 88
7. Fernandina to Cedar Keys 93
8. Key West, the Florida Keys and the Gulf Coast 97
9. The Western Coast (Tampa, Apalachicola, Pensacola,
Mobile) 106
PART III.--CHAPTERS TO INVALIDS.
I. When is a change of climate advisable? 115
II. What climate shall be chosen? 120
III. Where is the best Southern winter climate? 128
IV. Some hints to Health-Seekers 130
GUIDE-BOOK OF FLORIDA AND THE SOUTH.
PRELIMINARY HINTS.
THE SEASON FOR SOUTHERN TRAVEL.
The season for Southern travel commences in October and ends in May.
After the latter month the periodical rains commence in Florida, and the
mid-day heat is relaxing and oppressive. About mid-summer the swamp
miasm begins to pervade the low grounds, and spreads around them an
invisible poisonous exhalation, into which the traveler ventures at his
peril. This increases in violence until September, when it loses its
power with the returning cold. When one or two sharp frosts have been
felt in New York or Philadelphia, the danger is chiefly past.
Nevertheless, for mere considerations of health, November is soon enough
to reach the Gulf States. Those who start earlier will do well to linger
in some of the many attractive spots on their way through the more
Northern States. A congestive chill is a serious matter, and even the
lightest attack of fever and ague can destroy the pleasure and annul the
benefit of a winter’s tour.
PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY.
The comfort of a journey is vastly enhanced by a few simple precautions
before starting. And if I seem too minute here, it is because I am
writing for many to whom the little miseries of traveling are real
afflictions.
Before you leave home have your teeth thoroughly set in order by a
skilful dentist. If there has been a philosopher who could tranquilly
bear a jumping toothache, his name is not on record.
A _necessaire_ containing soap, brushes, and all the etceteras of the
toilet is indispensable. It is prudent in many parts of the South to
carry your own towels.
Spectacles of plain glass, violet, light green, or light grey, are often
a comfort in the sun and in the cars, and if the eyes are weak should
not be omitted.
A strong, silk musquito net, with fine meshes, will be highly prized in
the autumn nights. A teaspoonful of carbolic acid or camphor, sprinkled
in the room, or an ointment of cold cream scented with turpentine, will
be found very disagreeable to these insects, and often equally so to the
traveler.
One or two air cushions take up but little room, and should be provided
for every invalid.
Shoes are preferable for ordinary journeys. In their make, let reason
and not fashion rule. They should be double soled, have low and broad
heels, lace firmly around the ankle, and fit loosely over the toes.
Rubber boots or overshoes should be abolished, especially from the
invalid’s outfit. Rubber overcoats are equally objectionable. They are
all unwholesome contrivances. A pair of easy slippers must always be
remembered.
For ladies a hood, for gentlemen a felt hat, are the proper head-dresses
on the route.
In all parts of the South woolen clothing is required in winter, and
flannel under-clothing should be worn by every one who goes there in
pursuit of health. Next to flannel, cotton is to be recommended. It is
more a non-conductor of heat than linen, and thus better protects the
body from changes of temperature.
Every person in feeble health--and those who are robust will not find
the suggestion amiss--should have with them a few cases of devilled ham,
sardines, potted meats, German sausage, or other savory and portable
preparations, which, with the assistance of a few crackers or a piece of
bread, will make a good lunch. A flask of wine or something similar,
helps out such an impromptu meal. Frequently it is much better than to
gulp down a badly cooked dinner in the time allowed by the trains.
A strong umbrella, and a stout pocket knife, are indispensable. Guns,
ammunition, rods, and fishing tackle should always be provided before
starting. They should be well protected from dampness, especially the
guns and powder. Florida is the paradise of the sportsman, and those who
are able should not omit to have a “camp hunt” while there. Tents, camp
equipage, and the greater part of the supplies should be purchased in
the North, as they are dearer and not often the best in the Southern
cities.
On arriving at a hotel, first see that your baggage is safe; then that
your room is well aired, and the sheets on the bed dry.
It is always well in traveling to have baggage enough--always a bother
to have too much. A good sized leather traveling-bag will do for the
single man; but where a lady is attached, a medium sized leather trunk,
which can be expressed or “checked through,” and a light traveling-bag,
to be taken into the cars and staterooms, and carried in the hand, are
the requisites.
Money can be transmitted so readily by certified check or draft, that a
tourist need not carry much with him. He should, however, have a reserve
fund about him, so as to be prepared for one of those disagreeable
emergencies which nearly every veteran traveler has at some time
experienced.
Every one who visits a strange land should strive to interest himself in
its condition, resources, history and peculiarities. The invalid, beyond
all others, should cultivate an interest in his surroundings. Nothing so
well sustains a failing body as an active mind. For that purpose, local
histories, maps, etc., should always be purchased. I have indicated,
under the different cities, what works there are of this kind in the
market, and, in the introductory remarks on Florida, have mentioned
several of a more general character, which should be purchased and read
before going there. (For further hints see the last chapter of this
work.)
PART I.
SOUTHERN ROUTES.
1. STEAMSHIP LINES.
In visiting the South Atlantic States the tourist from the North has a
choice of a number of routes.
Steamers leave New York for Charleston, Savannah, Fernandina, and Key
West, advertisements of which, giving days of sailing can be seen in the
principal daily papers. Philadelphia has regular steamship lines to
Charleston, Savannah, and Key West. From Charleston and Savannah boats
run every other day to Fernandina, Jacksonville, and Palatka on the St.
John river. The whole or a portion of a journey to Florida can be
accomplished by water, and the steamships are decidedly preferable to
the cars for those who do not suffer much from sea sickness.
The most direct route by railroad is the “Atlantic Coast Line,” by way
of Washington, Acquia Creek, Richmond, Petersburg, Weldon, Wilmington,
and Charleston. From Philadelphia to Wilmington the time is 28 hours,
fare $21.90; to Charleston 40 hours, fare $24.00; to Savannah, fare
$33.00; to Jacksonville, fare $38.65. Through tickets and full
information can be obtained in New York at 193 Broadway; Philadelphia
828 Chestnut Street.
It is proposed to establish a direct line of steamers from New York to
Jacksonville. It is to be hoped that this will be done promptly, as it
will greatly increase trade and travel.
2. WASHINGTON TO RICHMOND.
Distance, 130 miles; time 7.30 hours.
Until the tourist leaves Washington, he is on the beaten track of
travel, and needs no hints for his guidance; or, if he does, can find
them in abundance. Turning his face southward, he may leave our capital
either in the cars from the Baltimore depot to Alexandria and Acquia
Creek, or, what is to be recommended as the more pleasant alternative,
he may go by steamboat to this station, a distance of 55 miles. The
banks of the Potomac present an attractive diversity of highland and
meadow. A glimpse is caught of Mt. Vernon, and those who desire it can
stop and visit those scenes once so dear to him whose memory is dear to
us all. The reminiscences, however, which one acquires by a visit to
Mount Vernon are rarely satisfactory.
From Acquia Creek landing the railroad passes through a country still
betraying the sears and scars of conflict, though, happily, it is
recovering in some measure from those sad experiences. _Fredericksburg_
(15 miles; hotel, the Planter’s House, poor,) may have enough of
interest to induce some one to “lay over” a train. It is an unattractive
spot, except for its historical associations. These are so fresh in the
memory of most that it is unnecessary to mention them.
Beyond Fredericksburg a number of stations are passed--none of any size.
The distance to Richmond is 60 miles.
RICHMOND.
_Hotels._--Ballard House ($4.00 per day); Spottswood, Exchange (each $2
per day); Ford’s Hotel on Capitol Square ($2.50 per day); St. Charles
($2.00.)
_Boarding Houses._--Arlington House, corner Main and 6th street;
Valentine House, on Capitol Square; Richmond House, corner Governor and
Ross streets; Mrs. Bidgood’s, 61 East Main street; Mrs. Brander, 107 E.
Franklin street, (all about $12.00 per week).
_Telegraph Offices_ in Spottswood and Exchange Hotels.
_Reading Rooms_ at the Y.M.C.A. The Virginia State Library was pillaged
in 1865, and the Virginia Historical Library burned.
_Theatre._--The Richmond Theatre has a respectable stock company, and is
visited by most of the stars of the stage.
_Booksellers._--West & Johnson, 1006 Main St., (Brinton’s _Guide-Book_.)
_Churches_ of all denominations.
* * * * *
Richmond derives it name from the ancient burgh of the same name on the
Thames. The word is supposed to be a corruption of _rotre mont_, and
applies very well to the modern namesake. Like Rome, it is seated upon
seven hills, and if it has never commanded the world, it will be forever
famous as the seat of the government of the whilom Confederacy. It is
situated at the Great Falls of the James river, on the Richmond and
Shoccoe hills, between which flows the Shoccoe creek.
In the early maps of the colony, the site of the present city is marked
as “Byrd’s Warehouse,” an ancient trading post, we can imagine, said to
have stood where the Exchange hotel is now built. In 1742 the city was
established, and has ever since been the chief center of Virginian life.
The capitol is a showy edifice, on Shoccoe hill. The plan was taken from
the Maison Quarre, of Nismes, with some modifications, among others the
Doric pillars. It stands in the midst of a square of eight acres. In
this building the Confederate Congress held its sessions. It contains,
among other objects, a well cut statue of Washington, dating from the
last century, “_fait par Houdin, citoyen Francais_,” as we learn from
the inscription, and a bust of Lafayette. Two relics of the old colonial
times are exhibited--the one a carved chair which once belonged to the
house of Burgesses, of Norfolk--the other a huge stove, of singular
shape, bearing the colonial arms of Virginia in relief. This latter is
the product of a certain Buzaglo. It is eight or ten feet high, and
slopes from base to summit. A letter of the inventor is extant,
addressed to Lord Botetourt, in which he speaks of it as “excelled
anything ever seen of the kind, and a masterpiece not to be excelled in
all Europe.”
In the square around the capitol is an* equestrian statue of Gen. George
Washington, constructed by Crawford, and erected February 22, 1858. Its
total height is sixty feet. Around its base are six pedestals, upon
which are figures of Thomas Jefferson, Patrick Henry, Marshall, Gov.
Nelson, George Mason and Andrew Lewis, the latter an Indian fighter,
once of celebrity in Western Virginia.
To the left of this is a small statue of Henry Clay, erected by the
ladies of Virginia, made by Hart, and inaugurated in 1860.
On the eastern side of the square is the residence of the Governor, and
on another side the City Hall, a handsome edifice with Doric columns.
St. John’s Church, on Richmond Hill, is the oldest church edifice in the
city. The tower and belfry are, however, a modern addition. From its
church-yard, dotted with ancient tombs, one of the most charming views
of the city can be obtained. In this church, in 1775, the young and
brilliant orator, Patrick Henry, delivered his famous oration before the
Virginia Convention, which concludes with the famous words, “Give me
liberty, or give me death.”
The Tredegar Iron Works, Libby Prison, at the corner of Thirty-fifth and
Main streets, Belle Isle, and Castle Thunder, will be visited by most
tourists as objects of interest. *Hollywood cemetery, near the city is a
quiet and beautiful spot, well deserving a visit.
In the fire of April 2, 1865, about one thousand buildings were
destroyed, but the ravages of that disastrous epoch are now nearly
concealed by new and handsome structures.
The Falls of the James are properly rapids, the bed of the river making
a descent of only eighty feet in two miles. They furnish a valuable
water-power.
*Hollywood Cemetery, one mile from the city, is a spot of great natural
beauty. Here lie the remains of Presidents Monroe and Tyler, and other
distinguished men, as well as of many thousand Confederate soldiers. A
rough granite monument has recently been erected in memory of the
latter.
Butler’s Dutch Gap and Drewy’s Bluff, and the famous battle fields near
the city, will be visited with interest by many.
Those who would visit the mineral springs of Virginia, will find ample
information in Dr. Moorhead’s volume on them, or in that by Mr. Burke.
Both can be obtained of West & Johnson, booksellers, Main street.
The Natural Bridge, one of the most remarkable curiosities in the State,
is best approached by way of Lynchburg, from which place it is distant
35 miles, by canal.
3. RICHMOND TO CHARLESTON.
From Richmond to Petersburg is 32 miles on the Richmond and Petersburg
railway. The earthworks and fortifications around the latter town,
memorials of our recent conflict, are well worth a visit from those who
have not already seen too many such curiosities to care for more.
64 miles beyond Petersburg the train reaches Weldon, on the Roanoke
river, a few miles within the boundary of North Carolina (_Gouch’s
Hotel_.)
From Weldon to Goldsboro, the next stopping place of importance, is 78
miles, 7.30 hours. It is a place of about 5000 inhabitants, half white
and half colored.
_Hotels._--Griswold Hotel, Gregory’s Hotel, both $3 per day.
_Boarding House_ by Mrs Tompkins, $2 per day.
The road here intersects the North Carolina, and Atlantic and North
Carolina railways, the latter running to Morehead city and Beaufort, on
the coast, (95 miles) and the former to Raleigh, the capitol of the
State, (48 miles) and interior towns. From Goldsboro to Wilmington is
84 miles.
_Hotels._--Purcell House, $4 per day; Fulton House, $3 per day.
_Boarding Houses._--McRea House, Brock’s Exchange, about $2 per day,
$40.00 per month.
_Newspapers._--_Post_, republican, _Journal_, democratic.
_Steamboat Line_ to Fayetteville, N. C., (130 miles, fare $5.00); to
Smithville, at the mouth of Cape Fear, (30 miles, fare $1.50.)
Wilmington (16,000 inhabitants) is on Cape Fear river, 25 miles from the
sea. It is well built. The staples are turpentine and resinous products.
The vicinity is flat and sandy. At this point the railroad changes from
the New York guage, 5 feet, to the Charleston guage, 4 feet 8 inches.
The journey from Richmond to Charleston can also be made by way of
Greensboro, Charlotte and Columbia. This route leads through the
interior of the country, and, though longer, offers a more diversified
scene to the eye.
To Greensboro, on the Richmond & Danville and Piedmont Railways, is 189
miles; thence on the North Carolina Railway to Charlotte, 93 miles; then
on the Charlotte & S. Carolina railway to Columbia, S. C., 107 miles
(Nickerson’s hotel, $3.00 per day, newly fitted up); thence by the
Columbia Branch of the South Carolina Railway to Charleston, 130 miles.
Salisbury, N. C., 150 miles south of Greensboro, is the most convenient
point to enter the celebrated mountain regions of North Carolina. A
railway runs thence to Morgantown, in the midst of the sublime scenery
of the Black mountains, and in close proximity to the beautiful falls
of the Catawba. Charlotte (_hotel_, the Mansion House), is in the center
of the gold region of North Carolina, and the site of a United States
Branch Mint. It is also the scene of the battle of Guilford Court House,
during the revolutionary war.
The capitol, in Columbia, is considered a very handsome building.
CHARLESTON.
_Hotels._--*Charleston Hotel, Mills House (newly furnished), both on
Meeting Street. Charges, $4.00 per day. *Pavilion Hotel. Mr.
Butterfield, proprietor, $3.00 per day, also on Meeting Street.
Planter’s Hotel, Church Street, Victoria House, King Street, both $2.50
per day.
_Telegraph Office_, on Broad near Church Street; branch office in
Charleston Hotel.
_Post Office_, on Hazel Street, near Meeting.
_Churches._--Roman Catholic, Episcopal, Huguenot, Methodist, &c.
_Theatre_, at the corner of King and Market Streets.
_Bathing Houses._--One of salt water near the battery; two, with water
of the artesian well, one at the well, the other in the Charleston
Hotel.
_Livery Stable_, 21 Pinckney Street, connected with the Charleston
Hotel.
_Street Cars_ run on several of the streets; fare, 10 cts., 15 tickets
for $1.00. All the hotels have omnibuses waiting at the depots.
_Physician._--Dr. Geo. Caulier, 158 Meeting Street.
_Newspapers._--The Daily _Courier_, the Daily _News_.
_Depots._--The depot of the Northeastern R. R. from Wilmington to the
north, is at the corner of Chapel and Washington Sts.; that of the road
to Savannah is at the foot of Mill street; and that of the S. C. R. R.
to Aikin, Augusta, Atlanta, etc., is in Line street, between King and
Meeting streets.
_Bookseller._--John Russell, 288 King street. (Brinton’s _Guide-Book_.)
_Libraries._--Charleston library, 30,000 vols.; Apprentices’ library,
12,000 vols.
* * * * *
Charleston claims 40,000 inhabitants, the whites and blacks being about
equal in number. It is curious that since the war the mortality of the
latter has been twice as great as of the whites.
The city is seven miles from the ocean at the junction of the Ashley and
Cooper rivers, and has an excellent harbor, surrounded by works of
defence. On the sea line is Fort Moultrie; Castle Pinkney stands at the
entrance to the city; south of the latter is Fort Ripley, built of
palmetto logs; while in the midst of the harbor stands the famous Fort
Sumter.
The ravages caused by the terrible events of the late war have yet been
only very partially repaired in Charleston. The greater part of the
burnt district is deserted and waste.
The history of Charleston, previous to that event, is not of conspicuous
interest. The city was first commenced by English settlers, in 1672, and
for a long time had a struggling existence. Many of its early
inhabitants were Huguenots, who fled thither to escape the persecutions
which followed the revocation of the edict of Nantes. A church is still
maintained in which their ancient worship is celebrated.
Of public buildings, the ancient church of St. Michael’s, built about
1750, has some claim to architectural beauty.
The fashionable quarter of the city is the Battery. *Magnolia cemetery,
on the Cooper river, is well worth a visit. It is one of the most
beautiful in the South. It was laid out in 1850, and contains some
handsome monuments.
The Custom House is a fine building, of white marble.
Those who wish to visit Fort Sumter, and review the scenes of 1861, can
be accommodated by a small sailing vessel, which leaves the wharf every
morning at 10.30 o’clock.
In the church-yard of St. Philip’s is the tomb of John C. Calhoun. A
slab, bearing the single word “Calhoun,” marks the spot.
The museum of the Medical College is considered one of the finest in the
United States.
4. AIKEN, S. C., AND THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS.
Within the past ten years the advantages for invalids of a residence in
the highlands of the Carolinas, Georgia and Tennessee have been
repeatedly urged on the public. The climate in these localities is dry
and mild, exceedingly well adapted, therefore, for such cases as find
the severe cold of Minnesota irritating, and the moist warmth of Florida
enervating. Aiken, S. C., Atlanta, Ga., Lookout Mountain, near
Chattanooga, East Tennessee, and other localities offer good
accommodations, and have almost equal advantages in point of climate.
Like other resorts, they do not agree with all invalids, but they are
suitable for a large class.
One of the best known and most eligible is
AIKEN, SOUTH CAROLINA.
Distance from Charleston, by the South Carolina Railroad, 120 miles.
Time 8 hours. Two trains daily. Fare $6.
_Hotels._--The Aiken Hotel, H. Smyser, proprietor. Engage rooms a week
ahead. Fare, $3.00 per day. A Sanitarium is in process of construction
on a beautiful eminence west of the town.
_Boarding_ can be obtained in a number of private families.
_Telegraph_ station at the depot.
_Livery Stables_, two. Horse and buggy, $4.00 per day; saddle horse,
$2.50 per day.
_Churches._--Episcopal, Presbyterian, Methodist and Baptist.
The town has about 1,500 inhabitants, though the passing traveler would
not think so, as the railroad passes through a deep cut, which conceals
most of the houses. Whites and blacks are about equal in number. The
streets are wide, sandy, and not very neat.
The site is on the ridge which divides the valleys of the Edisto and
Savannah rivers. At this point the elevation is 600 feet above sea
level. The loose soil of siliceous sand and red clay, and the rapid
declivities, insure an excellent drainage. The water is clear, and
contains some traces of iron and magnesia, rather beneficial than
otherwise.
The climate is agreeable in both winter and summer. The mean temperature
of the year is 62 degrees Fahrenheit; of the three winter months 46.5,
45 and 50 degrees. The thermometer rarely registers under 20 degrees.
Rain falls to the depth of 37 inches annually, the wettest season being
in summer. Frosts commence about the middle of November, and cease about
the last of March. The prevailing winds are southerly in summer,
easterly and northerly in winter. The dew point is always low,
indicating a dry atmosphere. Malarial diseases are asserted to be
entirely unknown.
The soil is lauded, and with justness, for its fitness for fruit
culture. Orchards, vineyards and garden plots are exceedingly
productive, but the more staple crops do not correspond in excellence.
The wines of Aiken have long been known in commerce. Though not high
flavored, with none of the _bouquet_ which lends such value to the
vintages of the Upper Rhine, they are a pure and healthy beverage. It
must be remembered that agriculture, in the sense of the word in
Pennsylvania and New York, is almost an unknown art in this part of the
South.
Except its advantages in connection with health, Aiken offers little to
attract the tourist. In the stone quarries near the railroad the
geologist can collect some very good specimens of fossil shells and
corals from the tertiary limestone. The buhr mill-stone abounds in this
region, and has been successfully tried in mills. Prof. Tuomey in a
report on the geology of the State pronounces these equal to the best
French stones. They have, however, never been put in the market with
energy.
The wine cellars, especially that of Mr. Walker, will have attractions
for those who delight to please the pallet with the juice of the grape.
And the porcelain works near by, where stone ware is manufactured from
the kaolin clay, may form the objective point of a pleasant excursion.
If one’s inclinations are to sport, a ride of a few miles from town in
any direction will bring one to good partridge cover, while the numerous
streams in the vicinity are fairly stocked with trout, jack, bream and
perch. Pic-nics in the pine woods, and excursions over the hills always
supply ladies with means of inhaling the healthful air and enjoying
invigorating exercise.
ATLANTA.
From Aiken to Augusta, 16 miles, $1.00. From Augusta to Atlanta by the
Georgia railway, 171 miles, $8.50; 11 hours.
_Hotels._--The National, on Peach Tree Street, $4.00 per day; the United
States and the American, opposite the depot, $3.00 per day.
_Telegraph Office_ in Kimball’s Opera House. Post Office, corner of
Alabama and Broad streets.
_Bathing House_ on Alabama street, near U. S. Hotel.
_Circulating Library_ at the Young Men’s Library Association on Broad
street.
* * * * *
Atlanta has about 20,000 inhabitants. The water is pure, the air
bracing, and the climate resembles that of Northern Italy. The Walton
Springs are in the city, furnishing a strongly chalybeate water, much
used, and with great success, as a tonic. The fall and spring months are
peculiarly delightful, and the vicinity offers many pleasant excursions.
Communication by rail either to Chattanooga and East Tennessee, or south
to Macon, etc., is convenient.
5.--FROM CHARLESTON TO SAVANNAH.
The tourist has the choice of the railway via Coosawhatchie, or via
Augusta, Georgia, or the steamers. The first mentioned road was
destroyed during the war, and is not yet in running order.
Steamboats also leave Charleston every Thursday and Saturday, direct for
Fernandina, Jacksonville and Palatka, and should be chosen by those who
do not suffer from seasickness. They are roomy, and the table well
supplied.
SAVANNAH.
_Hotels._--*Screven House, Pulaski House, both $4.00 a day. *Marshall
House, $3.00 per day, $15.00 per week, an excellent table. *Pavilion
Hotel, Mr. Noe. Proprietor; a quiet, pleasant house for invalids, $3.00
per day.
_Boarding Houses._--Mrs. McAlpin, South Broad street; Mrs. Kollock,
South Broad street; Mrs. Savage, Barnard Street; all $3.00 per day,
$14.00 per week.
_Post Office and Telegraph Office_ on Bay street, near the Pulaski
House.
_Street Cars_ start from the post office to various parts of the city.
Fare, 10 cents; 14 tickets for $1.00. Omnibuses meet the various trains,
and steamboats will deliver passengers anywhere in the city for 75 cents
each.
_Livery Stables_ are connected with all the hotels.
_Restaurants._--The best is the Restaurant Francais, in Whitaker Street,
between Bay and Bryan Streets.
_Newspapers._--Daily _Savannah News_, Daily _Morning News_.
_Bookstores._--J. Schreiner & Co., near the Pulaski House. (Brinton’s
_Guide-Book_, _Historical Record of Savannah_.)
_Depots._--The Central Railroad depot is in the southwestern part of the
city, corner of Liberty and E. Broad Streets. The railroad from
Charleston has its terminus here. The Atlantic and Gulf Railroad is in
the south-eastern part of the city, corner of Liberty and E. Broad
Streets.
* * * * *
Savannah is situated in Chatham county, Ga., on a bluff, about forty
feet high, seven miles above the mouth of the river of the same name, on
its right bank. Its present population is estimated at 40,000.
The city was founded by Gov. James Oglethorpe, in 1733. It played a
conspicuous part during the Revolution. With characteristic loyalty to
the cause of freedom the Council of Safety passed a resolution in 1776
to burn the town rather than have it fall into the hands of the British.
Nevertheless, two years afterwards the royal troops obtained possession
of it by a strategic movement. In the autumn of 1779 the American forces
under General Lincoln, and the distinguished Polish patriot, Count
Casimir Pulaski, with their French allies under Count d’Estaing, made a
desperate but fruitless attempt to regain it by assault. Both the
foreign noblemen were wounded in a night assault on the works. Count
Pulaski mortally. The spot where he fell is where the Central Railroad
depot now stands.
The chief objects of interest are the monuments. The *finest is to the
memory of Pulaski. It is in Chipewa square, and is a handsome shaft of
marble, surmounted by a statue of Liberty, and supported on a base of
granite. Its height is 55 feet; its date of erection 1853.
An older and plainer monument, some fifty feet high, without
inscription, stands in Johnson square. It was erected in 1829, and is
known as the Greene and Pulaski monument.
The city is beautifully laid out, diversified with numerous small
squares, with wide and shady streets. Broad Street and Bay Street have
each four rows of those popular southern shade trees known as the Pride
of India, or China trees (_Melia Azedarach_).
A praiseworthy energy has supplied the city with excellent water from
public water works; and, in Forsyth Park, at the head of Bull Street, is
a fountain of quite elaborate workmanship.
Some of the public buildings are well worth visiting. The Georgia
Historical Society has an excellent edifice, on Bryan Street, with a
library of 7,500 volumes, among which are said to be a number of
valuable manuscripts.
The *Museum, on the northeast corner of Bull and Taylor streets,
contains a number of local curiosities.
The Custom House is a handsome fire-proof structure of Quincy granite.
The Exchange building, now used as the Mayor’s office, etc., offers,
from its top, the best view of the city.
_Excursions._--Several days can be passed extremely pleasantly in short
excursions from the city. One of the most interesting of these will be
to
*_Bonaventure Cemetery._--This is situated 3 miles from the city, on the
Warsaw river. A stately grove of live oaks, draped in the sombre weeds
by the Spanish moss, cast an appropriate air of pensiveness around this
resting place of past generations. A cab holding four persons to this
locality costs $8.00.
_Thunderbolt_, a small town, (two hotels), 4½ miles south-east of the
city, on a creek of the same name, is worth visiting, chiefly for the
beautiful drive which leads to it. Cab fare for the trip, $8.00.
_White Bluff_, on the Vernon river, 10 miles from the city has two
unpretending hotels, and is a favorite resort of the citizens on account
of the excellent shell road which connects it with the city. Cab fare
for the trip, $10.00.
_Bethesda Orphan House_, also 10 miles distant, is erected on the site
chosen by the Rev. Mr. Whitfield, very early in the history of the
colony. Selina, the pious Countess of Huntington, took a deep interest
in its welfare as long as she lived, and it is pleasant to think that
now it is established on a permanent footing.
_Jasper Spring_, 2 miles from the city, is pointed out as the spot where
the bold Sergeant Jasper, with one assistant, during the revolutionary
war, surprised and captured eight Britishers, and forced them to release
a prisoner. The thoughtless guard had stacked arms and proceeded to the
spring to drink, when the shrewd Sergeant who, anticipating this very
move, was hidden in the bushes near by, rushed forward, seized the
muskets, and brought the enemy to instant terms.
6. SAVANNAH TO JACKSONVILLE.
The tourist has the choice of three routes for this part of his journey.
He can take a sea steamer, and passing out the Savannah river, see no
more land until the low shores at the mouth of the St. John River come
in sight. Or he can choose one of several small steamboats which ply in
the narrow channels between the sea-islands and the main, touching at
Brunswick, Darien, St. Catharine, Fernandina, etc., (fare $10.00). Or
lastly he has the option of the railroad, which will carry him through
to Jacksonville in twelve hours and a half, in a first class sleeping
car.
The channel along the coast lies through extensive salt marshes,
intersected by numerous brackish creeks and lagoons. The boats are
small, or they could not thread the mazes of this net-work of narrow
water-courses. The sea-islands, famous all over the world for their
long-staple cotton, have a sandy, thin soil, rising in hillocks and
covered with a growth of live-oak, water-oak, bay, gum and pine. Between
the islands and the main land the grassy marshes extend for several
miles. In the distance the western horizon is hedged by a low wall of
short-leaved pine. The sea islands are moderately healthy, but the main
land is wet, flat and sterile, and its few inhabitants are exposed to
the most malignant forms of malarial fever and pneumonia.
On St. Catharine island is the plantation formerly owned by Mr. Pierce
Butler, and the scene of Mrs. Francis Kemble Butler’s well-known work,
“Life on a Georgia Plantation.” On Cumberland island, the most southern
of the sea-islands belonging to Georgia, is the Dungerness estate, 6000
acres in extent, once owned by Gen. Nat. Greene, of Revolutionary fame,
and recently bought by Senator Sprague, of Rhode Island, for $10 per
acre. With proper cultivation it would yield magnificent crops of
sea-island cotton.
_Fernandina_ on Amelia Island, the terminus of the Fernandina and Cedar
Keys Railroad, is a town of growing importance (pop. about 2,000;
hotels, Virginia House, containing the telegraph office; the Whitfield
House, both $3.00 per day; newspaper, the _Island City Weekly_.) This is
one of the old Spanish settlements, and the traces of the indigo fields
are still visible over a great part of the island. Fernandina-Oldtown is
about a mile north of the present site.
The sub-tropical vegetation is quite marked on the island. Magnificent
oleanders, large live oaks, and dense growths of myrtle and palmettos
conceal the rather unpromising soil. The olive has been cultivated with
success, and there is no reason why a large supply of the best table oil
should not be produced here.
A low shell mound covers the beach at Fernandina, and in the interior of
the island are several large Indian burial mounds. Several earthworks
thrown up during the late war overlook the town and harbor. Fernandina
harbor is one of the best in the South Atlantic Coast, landlocked and
safe. Its depth is 6½ fathoms, and the water on the bar at low tide is
14 feet. The tide rises from 6 to 7 feet. In spite of what seems its
more convenient situation, Fernandina does not seem destined to be a
rival of Jacksonville.