Transcriber’s Note: Italic text is enclosed in _underscores_. Other
notes will be found near the end of this ebook.
[Illustration: (Cover)]
[Illustration: (Map of Canada)]
CARPENTER’S
WORLD TRAVELS
_Familiar Talks About Countries
and Peoples_
WITH THE AUTHOR ON THE SPOT AND
THE READER IN HIS HOME, BASED
ON THREE HUNDRED THOUSAND
MILES OF TRAVEL OVER
THE GLOBE
“READING CARPENTER IS SEEING THE WORLD”
[Illustration: WHERE MAN FEELS CLOSE TO GOD
Canada shares with the United States the glories of the Rockies, which
invite the traveller ever westward and, once seen, cast a spell that is
never shaken off.]
_CARPENTER’S WORLD TRAVELS_
CANADA
AND
NEWFOUNDLAND
BY
FRANK G. CARPENTER
LITT.D., F.R.G.S.
[Illustration]
WITH 116 ILLUSTRATIONS
FROM ORIGINAL PHOTOGRAPHS
GARDEN CITY NEW YORK
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
1924
COPYRIGHT, 1924, BY
FRANK G. CARPENTER
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES
AT
THE COUNTRY LIFE PRESS, GARDEN CITY, N. Y.
_First Edition_
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
In the publication of this volume on my travels in Canada and
Newfoundland, I wish to thank the Secretary of State for letters which
have given me the assistance of our official representatives in the
countries visited. I thank also the Secretary of Agriculture and our
Secretary of Labour for appointing me an Honourary Commissioner of
their Departments in foreign lands. Their credentials have been of
great value, making accessible sources of information seldom opened to
the ordinary traveller.
To the officials of the Dominions of Newfoundland and Canada I desire
to express my thanks for exceptional courtesies which greatly aided me
in my investigations.
I would also thank Mr. Dudley Harmon, my editor, and Miss Ellen McB.
Brown and Miss Josephine Lehmann, my associate editors, for their
assistance and coöperation in the revision of notes dictated or penned
by me on the ground.
While nearly all of the illustrations in Carpenter’s World Travels are
from my own negatives, those in the book have been supplemented by
photographs from the official collections of the Canadian government,
the Canadian National Lines, the Canadian Pacific Railway, the
Publishers’ Photo Service, the Holloway Studios of St. John’s, N. F.,
and Lomen Bros., of Nome, Alaska.
F. G. C.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE
I. JUST A WORD BEFORE WE START 1
II. THE KEY TO THE ST. LAWRENCE 3
III. AROUND ABOUT ST. JOHN’S 8
IV. THE COD FISHERIES OF NEWFOUNDLAND 13
V. IRON MINES UNDER THE SEA 24
VI. THE MARITIME PROVINCES 31
VII. IN FRENCH CANADA 42
VIII. STE. ANNE DE BEAUPRÉ AND ITS MIRACULOUS CURES 52
IX. MONTREAL 60
X. CANADA’S BIG BANKS 69
XI. OTTAWA--THE CAPITAL OF THE DOMINION 79
XII. THE LUMBER YARD OF AN EMPIRE 88
XIII. TORONTO--THE CITY OF PUBLIC OWNERSHIP 97
XIV. WATERFALLS THAT WORK FOR THE PEOPLE 106
XV. NIAGARA’S GIANT POWER STATION 113
XVI. THE SILVER MINES OF NORTHERN ONTARIO 119
XVII. NICKEL FOR ALL THE WORLD 127
XVIII. SAULT STE. MARIE AND THE CLAY BELT 134
XIX. THE TWIN LAKE PORTS 141
XX. WINNIPEG--WHERE THE PRAIRIES BEGIN 148
XXI. THE GREAT TRANSCONTINENTAL RAILWAYS 157
XXII. THE LAND OF FURS 166
XXIII. SASKATCHEWAN 175
XXIV. THE WORLD’S LARGEST WHEATFIELD 181
XXV. THE OPEN DOOR IN CANADA 188
XXVI. EDMONTON--THE GATEWAY TO THE NORTHWEST 197
XXVII. THE PASSING OF THE CATTLE RANGE 206
XXVIII. OVER THE GREAT DIVIDE 213
XXIX. THROUGH BRITISH COLUMBIA TO THE COAST 220
XXX. PRINCE RUPERT 226
XXXI. BY MOTOR CAR THROUGH THE WILDERNESS 232
XXXII. FROM WHITE HORSE TO DAWSON 241
XXXIII. THE CAPITAL OF THE YUKON 250
XXXIV. FARMING ON THE EDGE OF THE ARCTIC 259
XXXV. MINING WONDERS OF THE FAR NORTH 266
XXXVI. ROMANCES OF THE KLONDIKE 274
XXXVII. A DREDGE KING OF THE KLONDIKE 281
XXXVIII. THE ROYAL CANADIAN MOUNTED POLICE 288
SEE THE WORLD WITH FRANK G. CARPENTER 298
INDEX 301
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Where Man Feels Close to God _Frontispiece_
PAGE
The Untold Wealth of Canada 2
Newfoundland’s Rocky Coast 3
Icebergs off St John’s Harbour 6
The Capital City of Newfoundland 7
On the Fish Wharves 14
Spreading Codfish out to Dry 15
Fishing Villages 18
Hunting Seals on the Ice Fields 19
Caribou Crossing a River 19
Ore Piles at the Wabana Mines 22
The Annual Fishermen’s Race 23
Halifax Harbour 30
Cape Breton Island 31
Evangeline’s Well 38
Low Tide in the Bay of Fundy 38
A Quebec Farm House 39
French Canadian Woman Spinning 39
The Gibraltar of America 46
The St Louis Gate at Quebec 47
A Plank-paved Street 50
Ribbon-like Farms along the St Lawrence 51
A Wayside Shrine 54
The Church of Notre Dame 55
Grain Elevators of Montreal 62
Montreal from Mount Royal 63
In the Old French Market 66
Toboggan Slide Down Mount Royal 67
“Shooting” the Rapids 70
Through the La Chine Canal 70
Along the Rideau Canal 71
The Heights Above the Ottawa River 78
The Library of Parliament 79
A Giant of the Forest 86
Food for a Pulp Mill 87
A Forest Patrol Airplane 87
Log Jam on a Canadian River 94
Toronto’s Municipal Playground 95
Farm Scene in Ontario 95
Toronto, City of Sky-scrapers 102
Flax Raising in Ontario 103
Orchards of the Niagara Peninsula 110
The Big Ditch at Niagara 111
Ontario’s Giant Power Station 111
Potential Power for Canadian Industries 118
The Mining Town of Cobalt 119
Where One Walks on Silver 126
Erecting a “Discovery Post” 127
The World’s Greatest Freight Canal 134
Bascule Bridge at Sault Ste. Marie 134
Moose Feeding 135
Ontario Lake Country 135
Calling Moose 138
A Fishermen’s Mecca 139
The Mighty Elevators of Port Arthur 142
The Falls of Kakabeka 143
A Six-hundred-foot Lake Freighter 143
The Gateway to the Prairies 150
Cutting Corn by Machinery 151
Stacking Wheat 151
Over the Transcontinental Route 158
“Selling the Scenery” 159
Bargaining with the Eskimos 166
A Hudson’s Bay Trading Post 167
A Foster Mother for Foxes 167
Valuable Furs as Every-day Garments 174
The Capital of Saskatchewan 175
Grain Lands of the Prairies 178
American Windmills in Saskatchewan 179
Threshing Wheat 179
In Canada’s Great Wheat Province 182
Farming on a Large Scale 183
Future Citizens of the Dominion 190
A Modern Ranch 191
Raising Corn in Alberta 194
Railroads as Colonizers 195
Giving the Settler a Start 195
Digging Coal from a “Country Bank” 198
Milking Machines in an Alberta Dairy 199
Water for Three Million Acres 206
Passing of the “Wild West” 207
A Royal Ranch Owner 207
Calgary’s Business Section 210
Mounted Police Headquarters at Macleod 211
Lake of the Hanging Glaciers 214
The Monarch of the Herd 215
Mountain Climbing in the Canadian Alps 222
At the Foot of Mount Robson 223
The Land of the Kootenays 226
Apple Orchards of the Pacific Slope 227
Canada’s Most English City 227
Street in Prince Rupert 230
The World’s Greatest Halibut Port 230
Totem Poles at Kitwanga 231
Over the White Pass Railway 238
On the Overland Trail 239
Roadhouse on the Tahkeena River 239
The Head of Navigation on the Yukon 242
A Klondike Heating Plant 243
Islands in the Upper Yukon 246
Through the Five Finger Rapids 247
A Summer Residence in the Klondike 254
The White House of the Yukon 254
In the Land of the Midnight Sun 255
Redtop Grass Inside the Arctic Circle 258
A Ten-thousand-dollar Potato Patch 259
Dredging the Golden Gravel 274
Washing Down the Hills 275
Old-time Mining Methods 278
From Gold Seeker to Settler 279
The Prospector on the Trail 279
A Dredge King of the Klondike 286
Hydraulic Mining 287
The Guardian of the Northwest 290
An Eskimo of Ellesmere Island 291
CANADA
AND
NEWFOUNDLAND
CANADA AND NEWFOUNDLAND
CHAPTER I
JUST A WORD BEFORE WE START
The country through which we shall travel in this book is the biggest
on the North American continent. The Dominion of Canada is almost as
big as all Europe. It is bigger than the United States and all its
outlying possessions. It is thirty times as big as Great Britain and
Ireland, and it has one third of all the land over which the Union Jack
flies.
We shall find the country one of magnificent distances and wide, open
spaces. It lies just over our boundary and reaches from there to just
below the North Pole. Moreover, it is so thinly settled that it could
increase its lands now under cultivation fivefold and not exhaust its
available farms.
The Dominion has untold mineral and industrial wealth. It has enough
natural resources to support many times its present population of nine
or ten millions, and one day it will have, so Canadians tell me, as
many white people as the United Kingdom and all the colonies of the
British Empire have now.
This book is the result of many journeys through Canada. I have visited
the Dominion again and again in the various stages of its development,
and have followed the star of the new nation as it moved ever westward.
I have stopped with the French in the St. Lawrence Valley, have
travelled along the Saskatchewan when the United States farmers rushed
into the wheat belt, and have seen the Klondike and the Yukon when they
were still pouring streams of gold into the world.
We of the United States are vitally interested in the Canadians. We are
largely of the same blood, and the lines of our national lives have run
along side by side. Thousands of us have relatives in the Dominion,
for more than a million former American citizens are now living on
the other side of the border. We have so much faith in Canada that
our financial investments there are already in excess of two thousand
million dollars, and our trade with it is more important to us than
that of almost any other part of the world.
For this reason we shall start out knowing that we shall receive
everywhere a most cordial welcome. The men and women whom we shall
meet, for the most part, speak our own language, think much the same
thoughts, and have the same high ideals of life. Indeed, we shall
be surprised again and again at the vivid realization of our great
similarity, and the rich inheritance we have received from our common
ancestors.
Two empires, by the sea.
Two peoples, great and free,
One anthem raise.
One race of ancient fame,
One tongue, one faith, we claim;
One God, whose glorious name
We love and praise.
[Illustration: “Canada is a land of untold wealth. Its treasures extend
from the humming industries of the east to the great forests and
fisheries of the West, and from the golden wheatfields of the South to
the bricks of the Klondike gold I saw in the Far North.”]
[Illustration: What John Cabot saw when he discovered the American
continent were stern cliffs of gray rock such as this near St. John’s,
which now has a tower erected in his honour, five hundred feet above
the water.]