TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES:
—Obvious print and punctuation errors were corrected.
—Bold text have been rendered as =bold text=.
[Illustration:
POPULAR
PASTIMES
For
Field & Fireside.]
Popular Pastimes
FOR
Field and Fireside,
OR
Amusements for Young and Old.
CAREFULLY COMPILED BY
AUNT CARRIE.
SPRINGFIELD, MASS.:
PUBLISHED BY MILTON BRADLEY & CO.
1867.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1866, by
MILTON BRADLEY & COMPANY,
In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the District
of Massachusetts.
SAMUEL BOWLES AND COMPANY.
Printers, Binders and Electrotypers.
AUNT CARRIE
DEDICATES
TO HER YOUNG FRIENDS
THIS BOOK,
IN THE HOPE THAT IT WILL ADD
TO THEIR
HOME PLEASURES.
Preface.
I WOULD like to make a few suggestions on “home influence,” before I
commence a list of amusements. They may be superfluous; if so, I trust
you will pardon me.
All parents, I am sure, must feel a deep interest in this subject, and
I think will agree with me that judicious praise is quite as necessary
in the training of a child as wholesome correction. But if we wish
our children to have a genuine love for us, and our homes, we must
sympathize with them, and never forget we were once children, and loved
childish things.
Mothers have by nature far more sympathy and patience than most
fathers. Some fathers are apt to think that home is only a place in
which to eat, sleep, and be generally comfortable; but as to giving
any of their valuable time to entertaining their own children, why,
the very idea is preposterous! A wife is presuming to expect it! Let
me appeal to your selfish instincts. You all wish to be loved and
revered, and are gratified if your children are attentive to your
comforts. Can you expect such manifestations, unless you set them an
example, and prove by a real interest in their pleasures, that you
sincerely love them? Is it not better to devote at least an hour a day
to your children, than to spend every moment in earning money for them,
which, unless you rightly direct and train them, will surely prove
their ruin?
There is no time in the day when home is so pleasant as at twilight,
or in the early evening hour. Then all are gathered (or should
be) together at home. In the country it is after tea; in cities,
particularly New York, it is after dinner. Then, I entreat you, fathers
and mothers, assemble your children around you, devote your time for
an hour or two in being children with them, join heartily in all their
plays; let them tell what has interested them during the day; draw them
out, and encourage them to open their little hearts freely and confide
in you.
Some think it childish and silly to play games. Yet if we would only
keep our hearts young and happy, we should retain our youth longer, and
love our friends and homes better. A good hearty laugh is wholesome.
Mothers, I intreat you to train your own children. Do not leave them to
servants. Hire them to relieve you of the care of your house, and to
do your sewing; but give your time to your children. “Verily, you will
have your reward.”
I have compiled this book to assist you in your home amusements. May it
carry to your home circle that spirit of enjoyment which is natural to
the young heart, and which should not be absent from the more mature.
Contents.
PAGE
PREFACE, v
CROQUET.
MATERIALS used in the Game—Preparation of the
Ground—Choice of Sides—General Principles of the
Game—Arrangement of the Bridges—Diagrams—Rules of
the Game—Striking the Ball—Running a Bridge—Striking
Out—The Rover—Roquet—Croquet and Roquet-Croquet—The
Flinch—Suggestions to Beginners—Hints to Players—Carpet
Croquet—The Board Game—Vocabulary of Terms, 13
BASE BALL.
Origin of the Game—Rules adopted by “the National
Association of Base Ball Players”—Selection and Measuring of
Ground—Diagram—Pitcher’s Point and Home Base—Use of the
Bat—Description of the Game—The Catcher—The Pitcher—The
Short Stop—First Base—Second Base—Third Base—Left
Field—Center Field—Right Field—The Umpire—The Scorer, 42
ARCHERY.
Position of the Targets—Attitude in
Shooting—Directions—Bows—Targets, 64
GARDENING AND FLOWERS.
Benefit of Children’s Gardens—The Woods—How to Plant
Seeds—Ferneries—Ivies—Pressed Flowers—How to Plant and Grow
Strawberries—Grapes—Designs for Flowers—To Produce various
Flowers from one stem—To Preserve Roses till Winter, 67
ILLUMINATION.
Materials—Lists of Selected Colors—Brushes—Coloring—Table
of Colors and Mixed Tints—Design, 85
HOUSE AND HOME ARTS.
Decalcomanie, 98
Engraved Boxes, 101
Coral Flowers and Baskets, 102
Imitation of Inlaid Ivory, 103
Alum Baskets, 103
Painting on Glass, 104
Painting on Velvet, 106
Casting in Plaster, Sulphur, &c., 109
Leather Work, 111
Cigar Boxes made Useful, 116
Potichimanie, 118
Ornaments in Rice Shell Work, 120
Allspice Baskets, 124
Rice or Shell Baskets, 125
Wafer Baskets, 125
Impressions of Butterflies, 126
How to take Impressions of Leaves, 126
Paper Landscapes, 127
NATURAL MAGIC.
The Æolian Harp, 128
The Magic of Acoustics, 129
How Sound travels through a Solid, 129
Singular Example of Superstition, 130
Theory of the Voice, 131
The visibly growing Acorn, 132
DANCING.
Pop goes the Weasel, 134
Lancers, 134
Le Prince Imperial Quadrille, 137
Common Cotillion, 139
Basket Dance, 140
White Cockade, 141
The Waltz and Polka Quadrille, 141
Sir Roger De Coverly or Virginia Reel, 141
Nine-Pin Dance, 142
Caledonian Quadrilles, 142
DRAMATIC AMUSEMENTS.
General Directions for Private Theatricals, 144
Dramatic Reading Clubs, 147
Charades and how to Act them—Examples, 149
Tableaux Vivants, 154
THE SIBYL.
Sibylline Leaves—The Fiat of Fate—Flower Fate—Fate Box, 156
THE PUZZLER.
Conundrums, 160
Enigmas, Charades and Riddles, 162
An Enigmatical Dinner, 168
Paradoxes and Puzzles, 170
Arithmetical Problems, 173
Answers to Conundrums, 175
Answers to Enigmas and Charades, 176
Answers to Paradoxes and Puzzles, 178
Answers to Arithmetical Problems, 180
GAMES FOR OLD AND YOUNG.
Blind Man’s Buff, 182
Shadow Buff, 183
Blind Man’s Wand, 183
Chinese Shadows, 184
The Comical Concert, 184
The Menagerie, 186
Quaker Meeting, 186
Resemblances, 187
Put in a Word, 188
Proverbs, 188
Game of Characters, 189
Lawyer, 190
Consequences, 190
Fox and Geese, 191
Stage-Coach, 192
Hunt the Fox, 193
Sneezing, 193
The Ready Writer, 193
Rhyming Words in Pantomime, 194
Exhibition of the Modern Giant, 196
The Shadow at Command, 197
The Wizard of the East, 198
How to Bring a Person down upon a Feather, 199
The Apparent Impossibility, 200
The Turned Head, 200
Statuary, 201
“He can do little who can’t do this,” 201
“Brother, I’m Bobbed,” 202
“How do You Like it? When do You Like it? And Where
will You Put it?” 202
The Bird Catcher, 203
Questions and Answers, 206
The Magic Wand, 206
The Rhyming Game, 207
The Game of Twenty Questions, 208
Game of Photograph, 210
York and Lancaster, or the War of the Roses, 212
Post-Office, 214
Hand-writing on the Wall, 214
Graces, 215
Family Newspaper, 216
GAMES OF MEMORY.
Grand Panjandrum, 218
“Le Jardin de ma tante,” 219
A Good Fat Hand 219
PARLOR GAMES.
Squails, 222
Parlor, or Carpet Bowls, 226
The Union Game, or Red, White and Blue, 227
Zoetrope, or Wheel of Life, 229
Grecian Games, 230
Jack-Straws, 231
GAMES FOR LITTLE CHILDREN.
Dance, Thumbkin, Dance! 233
Uncle John, 234
Mother Goose, 234
Clap out and Clap in, 235
Fingers and Thumbs, 236
“You are nothing but a Goose,” 237
Buzz, 238
The Puzzle Wall, 239
Dolls, 240
Boys, 241
Play-Ground Rhymes, 243
Forfeits, 244
Croquet.
CROQUET has been for several years one of the most popular pastimes
in England, and is now very justly receiving a large and rapidly
increasing share of attention in this country. It is unmistakably a
game of _science_, in which the brain, as well as the muscles and
nerves, has an essential part to perform,—thus very closely resembling
billiards, to which game it is in some respects superior, in that it
is a more social game, and gives an opportunity for healthful open air
exercise.
Unlike most of out-of-door sports, it does not require the possession
of great strength or powers of endurance, or severe muscular exertion
on the part of the player. Excellence in it is almost equally
attainable to the weakly and delicate as to the healthy and robust.
Old and young meet on its arena on more nearly equal terms than in any
other known game of skill. A “correct eye,” steady hands and nerves,
and good judgment, are the essential qualifications for a good player,
and the possession of these advantages of course is not dependent upon
the age, sex, or condition of the person.
And it may perhaps be considered as the chief excellence of this game
that it gives this opportunity, which very few other games, combining
scientific play and physical exercise, afford, for persons of the
opposite sexes and disparity of age to join in one common amusement.
It should be a matter of congratulation to all to see the rapidly
increasing popularity of any healthful open air sport in this country.
We predict for Croquet a success wider in this than it has reached in
any other country. When we work or fight, we work and fight harder than
any other people, and we should be as enthusiastic in our play.
In preparing this chapter on Croquet we have endeavored to explain the
general principles of the game, and to present a code of rules, simple,
concise, and shorn as far as possible of technicalities of expression,
but comprehensive enough to include all points necessary to a thorough
understanding of the game.
In Rules of the Game, explanatory remarks are enclosed in brackets.
MATERIALS OF THE GAME.
A COMPLETE set of Croquet consists of _eight balls, eight mallets, ten
iron bridges, and two posts_.
The balls should be about ten inches in circumference, perfectly
spherical, and should weigh about eight ounces. They should be
designated by different colors, either by painting the entire surface
of the ball, or by a stripe of the color merely. But the first method
is much to be preferred, as a ball needs all the protection it can have
to preserve it from the effects of the weather, and for this purpose
nothing is better than good oil paint and varnish. There is a universal
predisposition towards large balls by all novices in the game; but
experience will invariably give the preference to a ball not more than
ten inches in circumference, if of rock maple or birch, and if of
box-wood, not more than nine and one-half inches.
[Illustration: MALLET.]
The mallet head should be about 2⅜ inches in diameter, and 4¼ inches
long, shaped somewhat like a dice-box; and the handle 33 inches long,
15/16 of an inch in diameter in the largest part, and ⅝ of an inch in
the smallest. It is customary to paint some portion of the mallets to
correspond to the colors on the balls. This is a very great advantage
in distinguishing the different players and assisting the memory to
connect them with their respective balls, and we much prefer it; but
some players prefer to leave the mallets undistinguished, and to allow
each player to select his own,—choosing such weight, size and length
as he may desire—and perhaps there is no objection to this. A feeble
or delicate person may not be able to play as well with a mallet of the
standard size as his opponent, and thus will be upon an unequal footing
with him at the outset; while, if each selects such as is suitable to
his or her condition, all will be satisfactorily equipped, and, of
course, upon equal terms, as far as the implements are concerned. For
balls and mallet heads good rock maple is the most desirable of all
our native woods, and hickory is the best for mallet handles. Box-wood
is very good for mallet heads, but is too heavy for balls. Box-wood
mallet heads and good rock maple balls, well painted, make an elegant
and superior set, and are preferable to a complete box-wood set,
while rosewood and lignum-vitæ balls are little better than iron, and
entirely unfit to use.
The bridges should be made of iron wire about 5/16 of an inch in
diameter, in form like an ox-bow. The width of the bridge should be
equal to the circumference of the ball, and the hight such that when
firmly set it will stand out of the ground a distance equal to its
width. They should be uniform in color. White is best, as it is more
easily seen, and contrasts more pleasingly with the green of the turf.
Some have adopted the practice of painting them of different colors,
but the reason assigned seems not to be a good one, and experience
almost unanimously pronounces in favor of a uniform light color.
[Illustration: THE BRIDGE.]
One manufacturer has adopted and patented the happy idea of galvanizing
or plating the iron bridges with zinc, which gives them a _permanent_
light color, and at the same time perfectly preserves them from rust.
Some writers assert that withs or firkin hoops answer very well for
bridges. They may answer as a very poor substitute, but a good croquet
player would no sooner play with such materials than a billiard player
with a slack rope for a cushion or an umbrella for a cue. In many of
the scientific “shots” of the game, the player calculates upon the
rigidity of the bridges, and an iron bridge, when set in sandy soil,
is at best none too rigid; and with loose or springy bridges the game
loses much of its attraction to a good player.
[Illustration: THE POST.]
The posts should be about 28 inches long, 1½ inches in diameter in the
largest part, and pointed so as to be driven into the ground. They
should have rings painted on them corresponding to the colors of the
balls, and of such width that the bottom ring will be as high from
the ground as the top of the bridges. Thus, supposing the post to be
28 inches long, commencing at the top, make each ring 1¼ inches wide.
This will occupy 10 inches, and hence allow the posts to be driven
into the ground 8 inches, and still have the lowest color so high from
the turf that it can be easily seen from any portion of the ground. The
order of the colors on the post is not essential so long as the light
and dark colors alternate; but the two uppermost colors belong to the
chiefs of the two sides, and therefore most properly should be black
and white, as those are the best representatives of dark and light
colors. The exact arrangement of the succeeding colors is immaterial,
but the following is very good, commencing at the top:
1. Black. │ 5. Brown.
2. White. │ 6. Red.
3. Blue. │ 7. Green.
4. Yellow. │ 8. Pink.
As the order of the colors on the posts governs that of the play, and
since those on each side play alternately, it follows that in a game
of eight the dark balls, black, blue, brown, and green, are matched
against the light ones, white, yellow, red and pink.
Many devices have been suggested for marking the bridges when run, such
as clips or markers, painting the bridges different colors, &c., &c.,
but they have all proved to be useless, as a player who is interested
in the game will remember his own position more easily than he will
remember to change the marker.
THE GROUND.
IN contemplating the preparation of a Croquet ground, the first
question that occurs is, how much and what kind of ground is necessary.
The size of the ground, as well as the distance between the bridges,
is governed very much by the taste and accommodation of the owner.
A model Croquet ground has been defined as an elliptical field one
hundred feet long and sixty feet wide, with the bridges from nine to
twelve feet apart; but persons possessed of only a limited plot of
ground need not conclude that the above dimensions are absolutely
necessary, for a very interesting game may be played on ground not
more than sixty feet long and thirty feet wide, with the bridges from
six to eight feet apart. The bounds may be imaginary lines defined by
corner bounds, or they may be walks or other natural bounds suggested
by the nature of the ground; or if a plot is prepared expressly for the
purpose, a ditch about eight inches wide, and six inches deep, well
turfed is probably the best bound that can be made.
A smooth, closely cut turf is always to be chosen, and is improved
by a thorough rolling with a very heavy roller, or, if that is not
available, a few hours’ work with a heavy mall will bring the ground
into very good condition. Next to having the turf smooth, the most
important point is to have the ground level; and yet a very good game
can be played on an uneven or sloping ground, if in making the strokes
and determining the necessary force and direction, a proper calculation
is made with reference to the condition of the surface over which the
ball is to pass. It in fact shows more skill to play a good game upon a
poor ground than upon a perfect one.
GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF THE GAME.
TWO players being designated captains or chiefs, one for each side,
sides are chosen in the usual manner. The privilege of first choice
of players is very conveniently decided between the chiefs by each
placing his ball under the first bridge and striking for the starting
post; the one who thus drives his ball nearest the post gaining the
first choice.
The chief who has the first choice takes the ball corresponding in
color with the top of the post, and the other chief the next ball
according to the order of the colors on the posts, while the remaining
balls are given to the other players in the order in which they are
chosen. (See remark under Rule II.)
[Illustration]
Eight persons can play, but a game of four or six is the most
interesting. If four or more play, each player uses but one ball; but
if only two play, the game is improved by each player taking two balls
and playing them alternately as usual. If there be an odd number of
players—either three, five or seven—the players play against each
other individually, or one person takes two balls and plays each in its
proper turn.
Assuming that each player has a ball and a mallet, that the bridges
are arranged in either of the three positions given in diagrams Nos.
1, 2 and 3, we now come to the mode of playing the game. The object is
to drive the balls through all the bridges, in the direction indicated
by the dotted lines on the diagrams, and to strike the two posts. The
side, all of whose members succeed in performing this feat first, wins
the game. Now although this is the chief object of the game, yet the
act from which it derives its title, to wit: “Croquet,” is of much
greater importance than would at first be imagined. If a player hit
with his ball any of the others, he is allowed to place his own against
the ball he has struck, and setting his foot upon his own ball, he hits
it with the mallet, and the force of the blow drives off the other
ball while the playing ball remains stationary. As a player is allowed
to Croquet either friend or foe, it is evident that he can do a great
deal of damage or service, according to his inclination, since he is at
liberty to drive the ball in any direction he pleases.
The Roquet-Croquet is an operation still more interesting than the
Croquet as it is susceptible of much greater skill in its execution.
This is accomplished the same as the Croquet, except that instead of
holding one ball firmly by placing the foot upon it, both balls are
left free to be driven together by the blow of the mallet. By practice
and a skillful placing of the balls a stroke may be made that will
cause the balls to diverge in any forward directions the player may
desire.
In commencing a game, the first chief places his ball one-third the
distance from the starting post to the first bridge, and endeavors,
by striking it with the end of his mallet’s head, to drive it through
the first bridge. If he succeeds, he continues his turn and attempts
to send the ball through the second bridge, and then through the
third, for driving the ball through a bridge, or hitting another ball,
generally imparts the privilege of an additional stroke.
When one ball driven by a blow of the mallet hits another, it is said
to make _Roquet_ on that ball.
When the first player, who should be black, has missed, white goes on,
and the other players follow in the order of the colors on the posts,
and very soon comes the opportunity to use the great advantages of the
Croquet and Roquet-Croquet. Often when a player has his ball in a good
position in front of a bridge, another will hit it, and then by Croquet
or Roquet-Croquet drive it to the other end of the ground, compelling
it perhaps to take two or three turns before it can regain its former
position. Occasionally two or three balls lie close together, and one
is struck by a ball which was some distance off. The player is now
allowed to place his ball by the side of the one it has struck, thus
gaining position near the others, so that after croqueting it he is
almost sure of hitting the others.
As an example of the use of the _Roquet-Croquet_, we will take diagram
No. 1, and suppose that white plays with success through the first
two bridges, and that black lies somewhere beyond the second bridge.
Now if there was no other ball near, it would be impossible for white
to continue to play and pass through the third bridge, because it
will require one stroke to get in position for that bridge: but if
white can _Roquet_ black, then she can _Roquet-Croquet_ with black up
in front of the third bridge, and then, as the Roquet gives another
stroke, play through the third bridge and perhaps through the fourth
and fifth. If below the fifth she should find, say the brown ball,
to _Roquet-Croquet_ with, it would be possible to get in front of
No. 6, and then down to the turning post and hitting that return up
through No. 6. Here the brown ball may again be roqueted, and then
roquet-croqueted, into position for No. 8, and so on. This of course
could only happen if _white_ was an extra player and the other balls
were in very favorable positions, but it serves as an illustration
of the use of this very valuable stroke. The player who reaches the
turning-post first, has great advantages for a time, for as soon as
he touches it, he commences his return journey, and meeting the other
players on their way to the farthest point of their journey, he is able
to croquet them and considerably impede their progress.
When a player has passed through all the bridges, he becomes what is
called in the technical language of Croquet, a rover, and is privileged
to rove about all over the ground, croqueting his friends and foes.
It is therefore obvious that a good player can prove, when thus
situated, of immense advantage to his side, and should generally avoid
hitting the starting post till all on his side have passed through
the last bridge. The excitement towards the end of the game, often
becomes intense, and each stroke is watched with the keenest interest.
Gradually, one by one, the players hit the post, until perhaps only two
remain, and now occurs an opportunity for skillful play. The object
of both is first to hit the post, and failing in that, to keep as far
off his adversary as he can. Each endeavors, at the same time drawing
nearer to the great object in view, to keep the post between his and
the other ball. At length one plays at the post, misses it, and sends
his ball near his adversary, who first hits it, next croquets it away,
and then strikes the post, and wins the victory.
ARRANGEMENT OF THE BRIDGES.
Diagram No. 1.
THIS arrangement of the bridges, which is the simplest of the three we
have drawn, is the one which we recommend for all eight handed games,
or for beginners.
[Illustration: DIAGRAM No. 1.]
The figures marked on this diagram are intended merely to furnish a
relative scale of distances. Thus with these distances the posts are 53
feet apart, which is perhaps more than is desirable, unless the ground
is very perfect, or the players experts.
The course of the ball is indicated by the dotted lines, and the arrows
show the direction in which the balls proceed on the round. It will be
observed that bridge No. 3 is to the left of No. 2. As represented in
this diagram, bridges 3 and 10 are set a little in advance of 2, and 6
a little in advance of 5 and 8. Some players prefer that 10, 2 and 3
should be in a straight line, and the same with 8, 6 and 5. We prefer
to have 3 and 10 enough in advance of 2 to make it just possible for an
expert by a _very_ superior stroke to run No. 2 and get position for
No. 3 at one blow, and the same with 5, 6 and 8. In short, we would
have the arrangement such that it is not absolutely _impossible_ for
a player to make the grand round in one tour, without the aid of the
roquet. This of course would very rarely be accomplished,—never,
except by extraordinarily skillful play,—yet it should be made
possible, but very difficult.
[Illustration: DIAGRAM No. 2.]
Diagram No. 2.
In this the same number of bridges are used, as in the first diagram;
but the bridges numbered respectively 4 and 9, instead of being placed
parallel to the others, are now at right angles to them; thus in
playing from 3 to 4, the ball must keep to the left of 4, and then
pass through it, from the outside of the game; a much more difficult
arrangement than the first, and somewhat more difficult than the third,
although at first sight it may not appear so.
Diagram No. 3.
In this, the third diagram, it will be seen that the two center side
bridges are done away with, and that one is placed in the center of
the ground instead; but although in the play we now require one bridge
less than in the former diagram, yet the player will have to pass
through the same number of bridges as before, since he travels twice
through the bridge in the center, once on his way to the turning post,
and once on his return. This is the best arrangement of bridges for a
four-handed game. As the player’s knowledge of Croquet increases, many
other positions will suggest themselves; but those we have presented
are the simplest, and are the diagrams in general use at the present
time. Some authors recommend the invariable use of diagram No. 1, as
being sufficiently difficult, especially when bridges 10, 2 and 3 are
on a line.
[Illustration: DIAGRAM No. 3.]
RULES OF THE GAME.
Striking the Ball.
I. AT the commencement of the game the ball should be placed on a line
drawn from the starting post to the center of the first bridge, and at
a distance from the starting post, equal to one-third the distance from
the post to the bridge.
[The rule usually given, i. e., to place the ball a mallet’s length
from the post is very well for a large ground where the distance from
post to bridge is nine or ten feet, but for a small ground it brings
the ball too near the first bridge.]
1. In striking, the mallet should be used with one hand, and the
striker should stand on one side of, and not behind the ball.
2. The ball _must be struck_ and not pushed—a push never being
allowable under any circumstances; and the blow must be given with the
_face_—never with the side—of the mallet head.
[A ball can never get into such a position on a croquet-ground that
it cannot be struck in some direction, and if it is in a bad position
it is either the fault or the misfortune of the player owning the
ball—which he is not to be allowed to rectify by a push, for that
would sometimes be rewarding bad play.]
3. Whenever the mallet hits the ball, if it moves it however slightly,
it must be considered a stroke.
4. The player may if he wholly miss his ball, strike at it again.
II. The game is opened by the chief holding the ball corresponding in
color with the top of the post, and the players on the two sides follow
alternately according to the order of the colors on the posts.
[The playing must necessarily be in the order of the colors on the
post. But on some grounds the chief is allowed to assign the balls to
the several players on his side according to his own choice; thus
according to this rule the chief is not compelled to play the first
ball. We do not advise this practice as there is generally some real
or fancied difference in the mallets and hence a chief is liable to
offend some one in the distribution of the materials. There are other
objections which we have not space to discuss.]
1. A player who misses the first bridge is called a booby, and at his
next turn must strike his ball from the position to which it last
rolled.
[The above rule is based upon the almost universal practice of the best
players in this country. The following is gaining favor in England: “A
ball missing the first bridge must be immediately picked up and played
from the starting spot, at its next turn.” Both practices have peculiar
advantages over the other, which we have not space to discuss.]
2. A roquet made _upon_, or _by_, a booby does not entitle the player
to an extra stroke; neither can a booby croquet or be croqueted.
3. If any ball is played out of its proper turn and discovered before
the play of another ball has commenced, the misplayed ball may be
returned to its original place, or permitted to remain in that to which
it has rolled, at the option of the chief of the opposing side. But
if the mistake is discovered before the player has finished his turn
and the misplay be allowed, the misplayer shall be permitted to finish
his turn. If the chief does not permit the misplay, the misplayed ball
shall be returned to its original place, and any damages sustained or
advantages gained by either side shall be canceled. If the misplay
is not discovered before the play of another ball commences, or is
allowed, the misplayer cannot use his next turn as he has anticipated
it.
4. If a player use a wrong ball, all the balls moved by such play must
be returned to their former position, and the misplayer lose his turn.
Running a Bridge.
III. A player continues to play so long as he makes a point in the game.
1. Making a point is running one or more bridges, striking the
turning-post in order, or performing the roquet (except on a booby, or
on a ball the second time in one tour without making an intervening
_step_.)
2. A player is allowed but one extra stroke, even though he make roquet
and run one or more bridges at one stroke.
3. If a player makes two steps at one stroke, he may take position one
mallet’s length or less, in any direction from where the ball rested.
4. If a player makes three steps at one stroke, he may take position as
above up to two mallet lengths or less.
IV. The bridges must be passed through in their regular order in the
direction of the course. (This is called running a bridge.)
1. A ball runs a bridge when it passes through it in order and course,
by a direct blow, by roquet, roquet-croquet, croquet or concussion.
Hence, for a player to drive his ball through a bridge out of its
regular order, or from the wrong side counts no more than to pass over
any other part of the field.
2. A ball is not through its bridge when the handle of the mallet laid
across the two piers of the bridge upon the side from whence the ball
came, touches the ball without moving the bridge.
3. A ball passing under its bridge in the wrong direction is not in
position to run the bridge until it has passed clear through according
to the foregoing rule.
4. A ball lying under a bridge is not in position for that bridge
if it has been so placed by the hand for the purpose of croquet or
roquet-croquet, no matter from what position it may have been taken.
[If the ball was taken from the back of the bridge, it would not be in
position, having come from the wrong side, as above. Now if it should
be allowed that a ball may be taken from the front of the bridge and
placed under the bridge without losing position, as would at first seem
proper, then the question immediately arises as to a ball when taken
from a position directly on a line with the two piers of the bridge,
thus coming from neither front nor back. This question can rarely be
settled without dispute, to avoid which we have considered the adoption
of the above rule as most judicious.]
V. Tolling the _turning_ post is in all respects equivalent to running
a bridge, but the post may be tolled from any quarter.
Striking Out.
VI. A ball, after it has run all the bridges, may hit the starting post
either by a blow from its owner’s mallet, by roquet, roquet-croquet,
croquet or concussion, and is then a _dead ball_, and must be
_immediately_ removed from the field.
1. A player who having run all the bridges strikes the starting post,
is out of the game, his turn is omitted, and the play goes on as
before. If, instead of striking the post, he continues to play, he is
called a _rover_.
2. When all the balls on one side have made the grand round and hit the
starting post, that side has won the game.
[Some authors on Croquet require the ball to be placed on the _spot_ or
starting point before continuing play as a rover. But this rule seems
to be entirely arbitrary—useless—and to have been adopted for no
sufficient reason.]
The Rover.
VII. If the roquet-croquet is allowed to all players alike, the rover
is governed entirely by the same laws as other players.
1. Therefore, a rover having completed the grand round, and having no
other steps to make (except _stepping out_, when of course his play
ceases,) can only acquire the right to continuance of play by the
roquet. He may (after roquet upon it) croquet or roquet-croquet each
ball once only during a tour. Roquet upon a ball the second time during
a tour does not entitle him to a continuance of play.
Roquet.
VIII. A ball roquets another when it comes in contact with it by a
direct blow of the mallet, or rebounds upon it after the blow, from any
fixed obstacle of the ground or from another ball.
1. A ball having roqueted another ball, except a booby, is at liberty
to croquet or roquet-croquet it or proceed on its round; providing that
the playing ball has not already in that tour roqueted that same ball
since making a step on the round.
2. A ball may roquet another ball twice between two consecutive steps,
but the second roquet does not entitle the player to a continuance of
play.
3. Any player in his turn is at liberty at any time to make roquet on
_any_ ball on the ground.
4. Roquet does not entitle a booby to a continuance of play.
5. Roquet on a booby does not entitle the playing ball to a continuance
of play.
6. A ball having made roquet and declined the croquet, may continue its
play either from the position to which it has rolled after the roquet,
or from the side of the roqueted ball.
7. If a ball roquet another and thereby gain the privilege of croquet,
and afterwards, at the same blow, run a bridge; it may croquet the
roqueted ball, then proceed to roquet it again, then croquet again and
proceed on its round; or waiving either or both croquets, or the last
roquet and croquet, may proceed on its round.
[Thus supposing the playing ball roquets a ball that it has not
roqueted since making a step, and _afterwards_ at the same blow runs a
bridge; it of course has a right to croquet the roqueted ball; then as
that roquet was made _before_ the playing ball run its bridge there is
no reason why it cannot again roquet and croquet the same ball. But had
the playing ball _first_ run a bridge and afterwards at the same blow
roqueted a ball then it can have but one croquet according to Rule IX.]
8. The continuance of play is gained by virtue of the roquet, and not
of the croquet. The croquet is merely a privilege consequent upon the
roquet. Therefore to waive a croquet does not terminate the play.
This principle once fixed in the mind will avoid much confusion in
understanding and interpreting the rules.
[One author on Croquet, assumes to propound a set of rules on double
points which are entirely new and at variance with all previously
established principles of the game, inasmuch as they allow a player
to waive any point made or privilege gained. It is an established
fact in Croquet that a player may waive any _privilege_ that he has
acquired—but it is also as well established that a _step_ once made
can not be taken back. The beauty of Croquet is in a great degree due
to its simplicity, and the granting of the above right to players adds
one-half to the difficulties of the game, without adding in the least
to its interest. A game of Croquet in which all the players except
the rover are denied the privilege of roquet-croquet, and in which
the right to waive a step is introduced, becomes at once twice as
intricate, requires double the rules to explain it, and loses one-half
its interest.]
The Croquet and Roquet-Croquet.
IX. A player may croquet or roquet-croquet any number of balls
consecutively; but he can croquet or roquet-croquet only those balls on
which he has made roquet, and roquet on the same ball the second time
in one tour without an intervening step does not entitle the player to
a croquet.
1. If a player in the act of croqueting does not _separate_ the balls,
he is at liberty to take the stroke over again.
[Instead of the above the following rule is often given. A croquet is
completed when the mallet makes a perceptible (that is an audible) blow
against the croqueting ball, whether that to be croqueted move from its
place or not. This rule gives rise to frequent disputes whether the
blow was perceptible or not, and is not as generally acceptable as the
one we have given.]
2. If a player in executing the roquet-croquet does not move the
croqueted ball from its position, his tour of play ceases, unless by
the same stroke he makes a point.
[If it is in dispute whether or not the ball has been moved as above
required, the question shall be decided by the umpire if there be one,
if not, by the chief of the side opposing the player. Some authors
allow the roquet-croquet to the rover only—but as it is one of the
most scientific operations of the game, the majority of players are
not willing to give it exclusively to the rover, especially when it is
considered that a person who is able to become an early rover, will
naturally have advantage enough without any extra favors. Further,
the argument that the universal use of the roquet-croquet tends to
perceptibly prolong the game has been proved by actual test to be
without foundation.]
3. If a ball is croqueted either through its own bridge or upon the
turning or starting post when in order, a point so made holds good.
4. In making ricochet the player is at liberty to croquet either a part
or all of the balls roqueted; but the order of croquet must be that of
the ricochet,—the player, however, has only one additional stroke, and
not one for each ball he has roqueted.
5. If a ball when croqueted or driven through its own bridge from the
rear roll back through the bridge, it has not run that bridge.
[This rule is based upon the principle that all questions as to
position can only be satisfactorily determined when the ball is not in
motion. In the case put it would frequently be impossible to decide
whether the ball when it began to roll back was in position or not.]
X. The laws that govern Croquet all apply to Roquet-Croquet, except as
to points for which special rules are herein given.
The Flinch.
XI. If a ball flinch in the execution of the croquet, it is considered
as merely an accidental roquet-croquet, and subject to the same laws.
In this case of course any point made or advantage gained by either
ball holds good.
[By adopting this rule all unpleasant difference of opinion as to the
proper positions of the balls is avoided, and as the origin of the
roquet-croquet was this very practice of placing the foot lightly
upon the playing ball and then allowing both balls to be moved
together—there seems to be no objection to the rule.]
1. The above rule only applies in a game where the roquet-croquet is
allowed to all players.
2. In case the roquet-croquet is only allowed to the rover, the
following rule applies: If the player’s ball flinch in executing the
croquet, he forfeits the remainder of his tour, and no point made by a
flinching ball is valid, and the balls are considered as accidentally
displaced and are replaced in accordance with the rule applying to
accidentally displaced balls.
XII. A ball accidentally displaced must be returned, by the chief of
the side opposed to the person displacing it, to the place where it was
lying before the play proceeds.
XIII. If a ball be hit off the ground it is to be placed _at once_,
and before the play proceeds, twelve inches within the limit of the
boundary and at a point nearest to where it stopped, which of course
causes the ball to be brought in _square_ with the boundary.
XIV. If a ball in its progress over the ground, be interrupted by the
person or mallet of an enemy the ball may be placed by the chief of the
side owning the ball, in such position as he may judge it would have
rested had it not been interrupted in its progress. If interrupted by
the person or mallet of a friend the ball may be placed by the chief
of the _opposing side_ in such position as he may judge it would have
rested.
_A person not taking part in the game, should never be within the
bounds of a croquet ground when a game is in progress_—but should such
person accidentally be in such a position and either displace a ball,
or interrupt it in its progress—such person shall be considered as an
enemy to the owner of the ball—and the ball be replaced according to
rules XII. and XIV.
SUGGESTIONS TO BEGINNERS.
KEEP YOUR TEMPER—_and remember when your turn comes_.
Make good use of the privilege of croquet and roquet-croquet, and not
consider it the sole object of the game to run the bridges,—and yet it
is not well to too much neglect the bridges, as they must all be run
before you can become a rover.
Practice the roquet-croquet whenever an opportunity offers, as it is
susceptible of more scientific playing than any other stroke.
Accustom yourself to be guided strictly according to established rules
as far as you are informed on the subject.
Do not attempt to use a kind of push and call it a stroke although it
may not be expressly forbidden in some manual of croquet.
Avoid acquiring the habit of standing behind the ball and holding
the mallet in a perpendicular position with both hands when making
a stroke, even though you play with those who do not object to
the practice, as it will not be allowed on any well-regulated
croquet ground. In making a stroke grasp your mallet firmly; strike
squarely—take care that your wrist does not turn or twist, (unless
you wish to give a twist to your ball,) and after getting your aim
look rather at your mark than at your ball when giving the blow. After
calculating distance, direction, &c., there is no more use in looking
at your ball except to be sure you can hit it, than in throwing a
stone, to look at your hand, rather than the mark.
If the enemy have an expert rover it is generally advisable to use
every effort to strike him out.
As an offset to this method of play it is often advisable to neglect to
make the last bridge till near the close of the game, as in this way
you can venture as near the starting post as you please without the
fear of being deaded.
It is often the case that you and an enemy may both be in position for
the last bridge. In such a case as a general rule roquet him, then
croquet or roquet-croquet through the bridge, roquet again and croquet
him against the starting post, thus depriving the other side of a
rover, and gaining the advantage of bringing two of your own side into
consecutive play.
Leave your own ball as near your friend and as far from an enemy as
possible.
Accustom yourself as much as possible to strike with one hand, as it is
much more graceful, and many players allow no other blow.
The ladies will very much oblige all their associates in croquet by
avoiding long dresses, which are continually dragging the balls about
over the ground greatly to the annoyance of the players and disturbance
of the game.
To the gentlemen we would say it is no proof of skill in executing the
croquet, to swing your mallet with both hands, and give a blow hard
enough to kill an ox. If you want to do that sort of thing—it would be
more agreeable to all concerned for you to go off alone somewhere and
split wood. An easy skillful stroke will send a ball anywhere within
the bounds, and a ball out of bounds may be brought in, so nothing
is gained by “sledge hammering,” except injuring the implements,
irritating the players and delaying the game.
In executing the roquet-croquet the stroke may be varied so as to
produce three very different results. First, if it is desirable to have
the secondary ball go much further than your own, strike a _sharp_,
_quick_ blow, proportioned in force to the distance you wish your own
ball to go, checking the force the instant the mallet hits the ball.
Secondly, if you wish to send both balls along together strike a more
sweeping blow, (not a push) permitting the mallet to have its full
swing. The difference in these two blows is much more easily discovered
by the player than described with the pen.
The third stroke may partake of the nature of either of the above, but
differs in the fact that the blow of the mallet is not delivered in a
line with the centers of the two balls, but partially to one side of
the rear ball, thus producing the splitting stroke, i. e., sending the
two balls in courses diverging from each other. This is much the most
difficult stroke of the three.
In procuring a set of croquet materials be sure that you know what you
want, or else buy a set manufactured by some recognized manufacturer.
It may seem a very simple thing to have a set of mallets, &c., made
from a description, but having tried the experiment we can testify that
to procure suitable lumber—well seasoned, have mallets well shaped,
the handles serviceable and not bungling, the balls _perfectly round_,
the bridges well formed and proportioned—and the painting brilliant
and properly arranged is a very difficult matter. An English author on
this subject says, “It was our fortune (or rather misfortune) when in
the country last year to take part in a game of Croquet played with
home-made materials. We only hope that it will never be our lot to play
with such things again. The mallets were so large they had to be used
as one would a scythe in mowing grass. The heads, instead of tapering
at the center, bore a great resemblance to an ale barrel on a small
scale, and were so large that if one attempted to croquet, one was sure
to hit one’s own foot instead of the ball. These, by-the-by, were any
shape but round. They bobbed up and down when in progress, and scarcely
ever went in the direction which it was intended for them to go....
Such was the unsatisfactory result of the combined labors of the local
carpenter and blacksmith. We therefore earnestly recommend our readers
to eschew the use of home-made sets of Croquet altogether.”
We endorse the foregoing statement, adding that responsible
manufacturers in various parts of the country are now furnishing
excellent sets of implements at a cheaper rate than individuals can get
up equally good sets for themselves. There is therefore no economy in
using a home-made set.
_Parlor Croquet_ is a very good substitute for the Lawn game, and may
be enjoyed in a winter day or evening very much as canned fruit or
preserved flowers are enjoyed as excellent and beautiful substitutes
for the delicious fruits of autumn and fragrant flowers of summer. But
as the canned fruit is insipid when used beside the fresh fruit of
autumn, so will the parlor game seem when attempted in the season of
the field sport. There are two kinds of Parlor Croquet—which may be
termed Carpet Croquet, and Table or Board Croquet.
The Carpet Croquet is played exactly like the field game and with
similar materials except that they are usually smaller, being reduced
in size in the same proportion that the space available in a room is
smaller than the Lawn Croquet ground. The same relative proportion
in the size of materials should be preserved as that given for the
materials of the Lawn game—assuming as a standard—a ball from 2¼
to 2½ inches in diameter. There are several ingenious devices for
fastening the bridges to the floor or carpet. Each one of those which
we have seen have some objections; but those which are fastened with
tacks are the simplest and we consider them the best.
_The Board game_ is played on a board of any convenient size—say five
feet long and three feet wide—covered with baize or flannel, and
surrounded by a ledge or thin strip projecting above the top surface
three-fourths of an inch.
The bridges and posts are set in this board in the same manner that the
larger bridges are set in the ground on the lawn. The balls should be
about one inch in diameter and may be of glass—but box-wood or ivory
are better.