Third, this white mudstone, about twenty feet in thickness, and divided

into two varieties (C and D), both closely resembling the lower, fine-

grained, more unctuous and compact kind at Port Desire; and, as at that

place, including much selenite.

Fourth, a fossiliferous mass, divided into three main beds, of which

the uppermost is thin, and consists of ferruginous sandstone, with many

shells of the great oyster and Pecten Paranensis; the middle bed (E) is

a yellowish earthy sandstone abounding with Scutellae; and the lowest

bed (F) is an indurated, greenish, sandy clay, including large

concretions of calcareous sandstone, many shells of the great oyster,

and in parts almost made up of fragments of Balanidae. Out of these

three beds, I procured the following twelve species, of which the two

first were exceedingly numerous in individuals, as were the

Terebratulae and Turritellae in certain layers:—

1. Ostrea Patagonica, d’Orbigny, “Voyage, Pal.” (also at St. Fe, and

whole coast of Patagonia). 2. Pecten Paranensis, d’Orbigny, “Voyage,

Pal.” (St. Fe, S. Josef, Port Desire). 3. Pecten centralis, G.B.

Sowerby (also at Port Desire and S. Cruz). 4. Pecten geminatus, G.B.

Sowerby. 5. Terebratula Patagonica, G.B. Sowerby (also S. Josef). 6.

Struthiolaria ornata, G.B. Sowerby (also S. Cruz). 7. Fusus

Patagonicus, G.B. Sowerby. 8. Fusus Noachinus, G.B. Sowerby. 9.

Scalaria rugulosa, G.B. Sowerby. 10. Turritella ambulacrum, G.B.

Sowerby (also S. Cruz). 11. Pyrula, cast of, like P. ventricosa of

Sowerby, Tank Cat. 12. Balanus varians, G.B. Sowerby. 13. Scutella,

differing from the species from Nuevo Gulf.

At the head of the inner harbour of Port S. Julian, the fossiliferous

mass is not displayed, and the sea-cliffs from the water’s edge to a

height of between one and two hundred feet are formed of the white

pumiceous mudstone, which here includes innumerable, far-extended,

sometimes horizontal, sometimes inclined or vertical laminae of

transparent gypsum, often about an inch in thickness. Further inland,

with the exception of the superficial gravel, the whole thickness of

the truncated hills, which represent a formerly continuous plain 950

feet in height, appears to be formed of this white mudstone: here and

there, however, at various heights, thin earthy layers, containing the

great oyster, Pecten Paranensis and Turritella ambulacrum, are

interstratified; thus showing that the whole mass belongs to the same

epoch. I nowhere found even a fragment of a shell actually in the white

deposit, and only a single cast of a Turritella. Out of the eighteen

microscopic organisms discovered by Ehrenberg in the specimens from

this place, ten are common to the same deposit at Port Desire. I may

add that specimens of this white mudstone, with the same identical

characters were brought me from two points,—one twenty miles north of

S. Julian, where a wide gravel-capped plain, 350 feet in height, is

thus composed; and the other forty miles south of S. Julian, where, on

the old charts, the cliffs are marked as “Chalk Hills.”

SANTA CRUZ.

The gravel-capped cliffs at the mouth of the river are 355 feet in

height: the lower part, to a thickness of fifty or sixty feet, consists

of a more or less hardened, darkish, muddy, or argillaceous sandstone

(like the lowest bed of Port Desire), containing very many shells, some

silicified and some converted into yellow calcareous spar. The great

oyster is here numerous in layers; the Trigonocelia and Turritella are

also very numerous: it is remarkable that the Pecten Paranensis, so

common in all other parts of the coast, is here absent: the shells

consist of:—

1. Ostrea Patagonica, d’Orbigny; “Voyage Pal.” (also at St. Fe and

whole coast of Patagonia).

2. Pecten centralis, G.B. Sowerby (also P. Desire and S. Julian).

3. Venus meridionalis of G.B. Sowerby.

4. Crassatella Lyellii, G.B. Sowerby.

5. Cardium puelchum, G.B. Sowerby.

6. Cardita Patagonica, G.B. Sowerby.

7. Mactra rugata, G.B. Sowerby.

8. Mactra Darwinii, G.B. Sowerby.

9. Cucullaea alta, G.B. Sowerby (also P. Desire).

10. Trigonocelia insolita, G.B. Sowerby.

11. Nucula (?) glabra, G.B. Sowerby.

12. Crepidula gregaria, G.B. Sowerby.

13. Voluta alta, G.B. Sowerby.

14. Trochus collaris, G.B. Sowerby.

15. Natica solida (?), G.B. Sowerby

16. Struthiolaria ornata, G.B. Sowerby (also P. Desire).

17. Turritella ambulacrum, G.B. Sowerby (also P. S. Julian).

Imperfect fragments of the genera Byssoarca, Artemis, and Fusus.

The upper part of the cliff is generally divided into three great

strata, differing slightly in composition, but essentially resembling

the pumiceous mudstone of the places farther north; the deposit,

however, here is more arenaceous, of greater specific gravity, and not

so white: it is interlaced with numerous thin veins, partially or quite

filled with transverse fibres of gypsum; these fibres were too short to

reach across the vein, have their extremities curved or bent: in the

same veins with the gypsum, and likewise in separate veins as well as

in little nests, there is much powdery sulphate of magnesia (as

ascertained by Mr. Reeks) in an uncompressed form: I believe that this

salt has not heretofore been found in veins. Of the three beds, the

central one is the most compact, and more like ordinary sandstone: it

includes numerous flattened spherical concretions, often united like a

necklace, composed of hard calcareous sandstone, containing a few

shells: some of these concretions were four feet in diameter, and in a

horizontal line nine feet apart, showing that the calcareous matter

must have been drawn to the centres of attraction, from a distance of

four feet and a half on both sides. In the upper and lower

finer-grained strata, there were other concretions of a grey colour,

containing calcareous matter, and so fine-grained and compact, as

almost to resemble porcelain- rock: I have seen exactly similar

concretions in a volcanic tufaceous bed in Chiloe. Although in this

upper fine-grained strata, organic remains were very rare, yet I

noticed a few of the great oyster; and in one included soft ferruginous

layer, there were some specimens of the Cucullaea alta (found at Port

Desire in the lower fossiliferous mass) and of the Mactra rugata, which

latter shell has been partially converted into gypsum.

(FIGURE 18. SECTION OF THE PLAINS OF PATAGONIA, ON THE BANKS OF THE S.

CRUZ.

(Section through strata (from top to bottom)): Surface of plain with

erratic boulders; 1,146 feet above the sea. a. Gravel and boulders, 212

feet thick. b. Basaltic lava, 322 feet thick. c, d and e. Sedimentary

layers, bed of small pebbles and talus respectively, total 592 feet

thick. River of S. Cruz; here 280 feet above sea.)

In ascending the valley of the S. Cruz, the upper strata of the coast-

cliffs are prolonged, with nearly the same characters, for fifty miles:

at about this point, they begin in the most gradual and scarcely

perceptible manner, to be banded with white lines; and after ascending

ten miles farther, we meet with distinct thin layers of whitish,

greenish, and yellowish fine-grained, fusible sediments. At eighty

miles from the coast, in a cliff thus composed, there were a few layers

of ferruginous sandstone, and of an argillaceous sandstone with

concretions of marl like those in the Pampas. (At this spot, for a

space of three-quarters of a mile along the north side of the river,

and for a width of half a mile, there has been a great slip, which has

formed hills between sixty and seventy feet in height, and has tilted

the strata into highly inclined and even vertical positions. The strata

generally dipped at an angle of 45 degrees towards the cliff from which

they had slided. I have observed in slips, both on a small and large

scale, that this inward dip is very general. Is it due to the

hydrostatic pressure of water percolating with difficulty through the

strata acting with greater force at the base of the mass than against

the upper part?) At one hundred miles from the coast, that is at a

central point between the Atlantic and the Cordillera, we have the

section in Figure 18.

The upper half of the sedimentary mass, under the basaltic lava,

consists of innumerable zones of perfectly white bright green,

yellowish and brownish, fine-grained, sometimes incoherent, sedimentary

matter. The white, pumiceous, trachytic tuff-like varieties are of

rather greater specific gravity than the pumiceous mudstone on the

coast to the north; some of the layers, especially the browner ones,

are coarser, so that the broken crystals are distinguishable with a

weak lens. The layers vary in character in short distances. With the

exception of a few of the Ostrea Patagonica, which appeared to have

rolled down from the cliff above, no organic remains were found. The

chief difference between these layers taken as a whole, and the upper

beds both at the mouth of the river and on the coast northward, seems

to lie in the occasional presence of more colouring matter, and in the

supply having been intermittent; these characters, as we have seen,

very gradually disappear in descending the valley, and this fact may

perhaps be accounted for by the currents of a more open sea having

blended together the sediment from a distant and intermittent source.

The coloured layers in the foregoing section rest on a mass, apparently

of great thickness (but much hidden by the talus), of soft sandstone,

almost composed of minute pebbles, from one-tenth to two-tenths of an

inch in diameter, of the rocks (with the entire exception of the

basaltic lava) composing the great boulders on the surface of the

plain, and probably composing the neighbouring Cordillera. Five miles

higher up the valley, and again thirty miles higher up (that is twenty

miles from the nearest range of the Cordillera), the lower plain

included within the upper escarpments, is formed, as seen on the banks

of the river, of a nearly similar but finer-grained, more earthy,

laminated sandstone, alternating with argillaceous beds, and containing

numerous moderately sized pebbles of the same rocks, and some shells of

the great Ostrea Patagonica. (I found at both places, but not in situ,

quantities of coniferous and ordinary dicotyledonous silicified wood,

which was examined for me by Mr. R. Brown.) As most of these shells had

been rolled before being here embedded, their presence does not prove

that the sandstone belongs to the great Patagonian tertiary formation,

for they might have been redeposited in it, when the valley existed as

a sea-strait; but as amongst the pebbles there were none of basalt,

although the cliffs on both sides of the valley are composed of this

rock, I believe that the sandstone does belong to this formation. At

the highest point to which we ascended, twenty miles distant from the

nearest slope of the Cordillera, I could see the horizontally zoned

white beds, stretching under the black basaltic lava, close up to the

mountains; so that the valley of the S. Cruz gives a fair idea of the

constitution of the whole width of Patagonia.

BASALTIC LAVA OF THE S. CRUZ.

This formation is first met with sixty-seven miles from the mouth of

the river; thence it extends uninterruptedly, generally but not

exclusively on the northern side of the valley, close up to the

Cordillera. The basalt is generally black and fine-grained, but

sometimes grey and laminated; it contains some olivine, and high up the

valley much glassy feldspar, where, also, it is often amygdaloidal; it

is never highly vesicular, except on the sides of rents and on the

upper and lower, spherically laminated surfaces. It is often columnar;

and in one place I saw magnificent columns, each face twelve feet in

width, with their interstices filled up with calcareous tuff. The

streams rest conformably on the white sedimentary beds, but I nowhere

saw the actual junction; nor did I anywhere see the white beds actually

superimposed on the lava; but some way up the valley at the foot of the

uppermost escarpments, they must be thus superimposed. Moreover, at the

lowest point down the valley, where the streams thin out and terminate

in irregular projections, the spaces or intervals between these

projections are filled up to the level of the now denuded and

gravel-capped surfaces of the plains, with the white-zoned sedimentary

beds; proving that this matter continued to be deposited after the

streams had flowed. Hence we may conclude that the basalt is

contemporaneous with the upper parts of the great tertiary formation.

The lava where first met with is 130 feet in thickness: it there

consists of two, three, or perhaps more streams, divided from each

other by vesicular spheroids like those on the surface. From the

streams having, as it appears, extended to different distances, the

terminal points are of unequal heights. Generally the surface of the

basalt is smooth them in one part high up the valley, it was so uneven

and hummocky, that until I afterwards saw the streams extending

continuously on both sides of the valley up to a height of about three

thousand feet close to the Cordillera, I thought that the craters of

eruption were probably close at hand. This hummocky surface I believe

to have been caused by the crossing and heaping up of different

streams. In one place, there were several rounded ridges about twenty

feet in height, some of them as broad as high, and some broader, which

certainly had been formed whilst the lava was fluid, for in transverse

sections each ridge was seen to be concentrically laminated, and to be

composed of imperfect columns radiating from common centres, like the

spokes of wheels.

The basaltic mass where first met with is, as I have said, 130 feet in

thickness, and, thirty-five miles higher up the valley, it increases to

322 feet. In the first fourteen and a half miles of this distance, the

upper surface of the lava, judging from three measurements taken above

the level of the river (of which the apparently very uniform

inclination has been calculated from its total height at a point 135

miles from the mouth), slopes towards the Atlantic at an angle of only

0 degrees 7 minutes twenty seconds: this must be considered only as an

approximate measurement, but it cannot be far wrong. Taking the whole

thirty-five miles, the upper surface slopes at an angle of 0 degrees 10

minutes 53 seconds; but this result is of no value in showing the

inclination of any one stream, for halfway between the two points of

measurement, the surface suddenly rises between one hundred and two

hundred feet, apparently caused by some of the uppermost streams having

extended thus far and no farther. From the measurement made at these

two points, thirty-five miles apart, the mean inclination of the

sedimentary beds, over which the lava has flowed, is NOW (after

elevation from under the sea) only 0 degrees 7 minutes 52 seconds: for

the sake of comparison, it may be mentioned that the bottom of the

present sea in a line from the mouth of the S. Cruz to the Falkland

Islands, from a depth of seventeen fathoms to a depth of eighty-five

fathoms, declines at an angle of 0 degrees 1 minute 22 seconds; between

the beach and the depth of seventeen fathoms, the slope is greater.

From a point about half-way up the valley, the basaltic mass rises more

abruptly towards the foot of the Cordillera, namely, from a height of

1,204 feet, to about 3,000 feet above the sea.

This great deluge of lava is worthy, in its dimensions, of the great

continent to which it belongs. The aggregate streams have flowed from

the Cordillera to a distance (unparalleled, I believe, in any case yet

known) of about one hundred geographical miles. Near their furthest

extremity their total thickness is 130 feet, which increase thirty-five

miles farther inland, as we have just seen, to 322 feet. The least

inclination given by M. E. de Beaumont of the upper surface of a

lava-stream, namely 0 degrees 30 minutes, is that of the great

subaerial eruption in 1783 from Skaptar Jukul in Iceland; and M. E. de

Beaumont shows that it must have flowed down a mean inclination of less

than 0 degrees 20 minutes. (“Memoires pour servir” etc. pages 178 and

217.) But we now see that under the pressure of the sea, successive

streams have flowed over a smooth bottom with a mean inclination of not

more than 0 degrees 7 minutes 52 seconds; and that the upper surface of

the terminal portion (over a space of fourteen and a half miles) has an

inclination of not more than 0 degrees 7 minutes 20 seconds. If the

elevation of Patagonia has been greater nearer the Cordillera than near

the Atlantic (as is probable), then these angles are now all too large.

I must repeat, that although the foregoing measurements, which were all

carefully taken with the barometer, may not be absolutely correct, they

cannot be widely erroneous.

Southward of the S. Cruz, the cliffs of the 840 feet plain extend to

Coy Inlet, and owing to the naked patches of the white sediment, they

are said on the charts to be “like the coast of Kent.” At Coy Inlet the

high plain trends inland, leaving flat-topped outliers. At Port

Gallegos (latitude 51 degrees 35 minutes, and ninety miles south of S.

Cruz), I am informed by Captain Sulivan, R.N., that there is a

gravel-capped plain from two to three hundred feet in height, formed of

numerous strata, some fine-grained and pale-coloured, like the upper

beds at the mouth of the S. Cruz, others rather dark and coarser, so as

to resemble gritstones or tuffs; these latter include rather large

fragments of apparently decomposed volcanic rocks; there are, also,

included layers of gravel. This formation is highly remarkable, from

abounding with mammiferous remains, which have not as yet been examined

by Professor Owen, but which include some large, but mostly small,

species of Pachydermata, Edentata, and Rodentia. From the appearance of

the pale-coloured, fine-grained beds, I was inclined to believe that

they corresponded with the upper beds of the S. Cruz; but Professor

Ehrenberg, who has examined some of the specimens, informs me that the

included microscopical organisms are wholly different, being fresh and

brackish-water forms. Hence the two to three hundred feet plain at Port

Gallegos is of unknown age, but probably of subsequent origin to the

great Patagonian tertiary formation.

EASTERN TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

Judging from the height, the general appearance, and the white colour

of the patches visible on the hill sides, the uppermost plain, both on

the north and western side of the Strait of Magellan, and along the

eastern coast of Tierra del Fuego as far south as near Port St.

Polycarp, probably belongs to the great Patagonian tertiary formation,

These higher table- ranges are fringed by low, irregular, extensive

plains, belonging to the boulder formation (Described in the

“Geological Transactions” volume 6 page 415.), and composed of coarse

unstratified masses, sometimes associated (as north of C. Virgin’s)

with fine, laminated, muddy sandstones. The cliffs in Sebastian Bay are

200 feet in height, and are composed of fine sandstones, often in

curvilinear layers, including hard concretions of calcareous sandstone,

and layers of gravel. In these beds there are fragments of wood, legs

of crabs, barnacles encrusted with corallines still partially retaining

their colour, imperfect fragments of a Pholas distinct from any known

species, and of a Venus, approaching very closely to, but slightly

different in form from, the V. lenticularis, a species living on the

coast of Chile. Leaves of trees are numerous between the laminae of the

muddy sandstone; they belong, as I am informed by Dr. J.D. Hooker, to

three species of deciduous beech, different from the two species which

compose the great proportion of trees in this forest-clad land.

(“Botany of the Antarctic Voyage” page 212.) From these facts it is

difficult to conjecture, whether we here see the basal part of the

great Patagonian formation, or some later deposit.

A SUMMARY ON THE PATAGONIAN TERTIARY FORMATION.

Four out of the seven fossil shells, from St. Fe in Entre Rios, were

found by M. d’Orbigny in the sandstone of the Rio Negro, and by me at

San Josef. Three out of the six from San Josef are identical with those

from Port Desire and S. Julian, which two places have together fifteen

species, out of which three are common to both. Santa Cruz has

seventeen species, out of which five are common to Port Desire and S.

Julian. Considering the difference in latitude between these several

places, and the small number of species altogether collected, namely

thirty-six, I conceive the above proportional number of species in

common, is sufficient to show that the lower fossiliferous mass belongs

nearly, I do not say absolutely, to the same epoch. What this epoch may

be, compared with the European tertiary stages, M. d’Orbigny will not

pretend to determine. The thirty-six species (including those collected

by myself and by M. d’Orbigny) are all extinct, or at least unknown;

but it should be borne in mind, that the present coast consists of

shingle, and that no one, I believe, has dredged here for shells; hence

it is not improbable that some of the species may hereafter be found

living. Some few of the species are closely related with existing ones;

this is especially the case, according to M. d’Orbigny and Mr. Sowerby,

with the Fusus Patagonicus; and, according to Mr. Sowerby, with the

Pyrula, the Venus meridionalis, the Crepidula gregaria, and the

Turritella ambulacrum, and T. Patagonica. At least three of the genera,

namely, Cucullaea, Crassatella, and (as determined by Mr. Sowerby)

Struthiolaria, are not found in this quarter of the world; and

Trigonocelia is extinct. The evidence taken altogether indicates that

this great tertiary formation is of considerable antiquity; but when

treating of the Chilean beds, I shall have to refer again to this

subject.

The white pumiceous mudstone, with its abundant gypsum, belongs to the

same general epoch with the underlying fossiliferous mass, as may be

inferred from the shells included in the intercalated layers at Nuevo

Gulf, S. Julian, and S. Cruz. Out of the twenty-seven marine

microscopic structures found by Professor Ehrenberg in the specimens

from S. Julian and Port Desire, ten are common to these two places: the

three found at Nuevo Gulf are distinct. I have minutely described this

deposit, from its remarkable characters and its wide extension. From

Coy Inlet to Port Desire, a distance of 230 miles, it is certainly

continuous; and I have reason to believe that it likewise extends to

the Rio Chupat, Nuevo Gulf, and San Josef, a distance of 570 miles: we

have, also, seen that a single layer occurs at the Rio Negro. At Port

S. Julian it is from eight to nine hundred feet in thickness; and at S.

Cruz it extends, with a slightly altered character, up to the

Cordillera. From its microscopic structure, and from its analogy with

other formations in volcanic districts, it must be considered as

originally of volcanic origin: it may have been formed by the

long-continued attrition of vast quantities of pumice, or judging from

the manner in which the mass becomes, in ascending the valley of S.

Cruz, divided into variously coloured layers, from the long-continued

eruption of clouds of fine ashes. In either case, we must conclude,

that the southern volcanic orifices of the Cordillera, now in a dormant

state, were at about this period over a wide space, and for a great

length of time, in action. We have evidence of this fact, in the

latitude of the Rio Negro, in the sandstone-conglomerate with pumice,

and demonstrative proof of it, at S. Cruz, in the vast deluges of

basaltic lava: at this same tertiary period, also, there is distinct

evidence of volcanic action in Western Banda Oriental.

The Patagonian tertiary formation extends continuously, judging from

fossils alone, from S. Cruz to near the Rio Colorado, a distance of

above six hundred miles, and reappears over a wide area in Entre Rios

and Banda Oriental, making a total distance of 1,100 miles; but this

formation undoubtedly extends (though no fossils were collected) far

south of the S. Cruz, and, according to M. d’Orbigny, 120 miles north

of St. Fe. At S. Cruz we have seen that it extends across the

continent; being on the coast about eight hundred feet in thickness

(and rather more at S. Julian), and rising with the contemporaneous

lava-streams to a height of about three thousand feet at the base of

the Cordillera. It rests, wherever any underlying formation can be

seen, on plutonic and metamorphic rocks. Including the newer Pampean

deposit, and those strata in Eastern Tierra del Fuego of doubtful age,

as well as the boulder formation, we have a line of more than

twenty-seven degrees of latitude, equal to that from the Straits of

Gibraltar to the south of Iceland, continuously composed of tertiary

formations. Throughout this great space the land has been upraised,

without the strata having been in a single instance, as far as my means

of observation went, unequally tilted or dislocated by a fault.

TERTIARY FORMATIONS ON THE WEST COAST.

CHONOS ARCHIPELAGO.

The numerous islands of this group, with the exception of Lemus, Ypun,

consist of metamorphic schists; these two islands are formed of softish

grey and brown, fusible, often laminated sandstones, containing a few

pebbles, fragments of black lignite, and numerous mammillated

concretions of hard calcareous sandstone. Out of these concretions at

Ypun (latitude 40 degrees 30 minutes S.), I extracted the four

following extinct species of shells:—

1. Turritella suturalis, G.B. Sowerby (also Navidad). 2. Sigaretus

subglobosus, G.B. Sowerby (also Navidad). 3. Cytheraea (?) sulculosa

(?), G.B. Sowerby (also Chiloe and Huafo?). 4. Voluta, fragments of.

In the northern parts of this group there are some cliffs of gravel and

of the boulder formation. In the southern part (at P. Andres in Tres

Montes), there is a volcanic formation, probably of tertiary origin.

The lavas attain a thickness of from two to three hundred feet; they

are extremely variable in colour and nature, being compact, or

brecciated, or cellular, or amygdaloidal with zeolite, agate and bole,

or porphyritic with glassy albitic feldspar. There is also much

imperfect rubbly pitchstone, with the interstices charged with powdery

carbonate of lime apparently of contemporaneous origin. These lavas are

conformably associated with strata of breccia and of brown tuff

containing lignite. The whole mass has been broken up and tilted at an

angle of 45 degrees, by a series of great volcanic dikes, one of which

was thirty yards in breadth. This volcanic formation resembles one,

presently to be described, in Chiloe.

HUAFO.

This island lies between the Chonos and Chiloe groups: it is about

eight hundred feet high, and perhaps has a nucleus of metamorphic

rocks. The strata which I examined consisted of fine-grained muddy

sandstones, with fragments of lignite and concretions of calcareous

sandstone. I collected the following extinct shells, of which the

Turritella was in great numbers:—

1. Bulla cosmophila, G.B. Sowerby. 2. Pleurotoma subaequalis, G.B.

Sowerby. 3. Fusus cleryanus, d’Orbigny, “Voyage Pal.” (also at

Coquimbo). 4. Triton leucostomoides, G.B. Sowerby. 5. Turritella

Chilensis, G.B. Sowerby (also Mocha). 6. Venus, probably a distinct

species, but very imperfect. 7. Cytheraea (?) sulculosa (?), probably a

distinct species, but very imperfect. 8. Dentalium majus, G.B. Sowerby.

CHILOE.

This fine island is about one hundred miles in length. The entire

southern part, and the whole western coast, consists of mica-schist,

which likewise is seen in the ravines of the interior. The central

mountains rise to a height of 3,000 feet, and are said to be partly

formed of granite and greenstone: there are two small volcanic

districts. The eastern coast, and large parts of the northern extremity

of the island are composed of gravel, the boulder formation, and

underlying horizontal strata. The latter are well displayed for twenty

miles north and south of Castro; they vary in character from common

sandstone to fine-grained, laminated mudstones: all the specimens which

I examined are easily fusible, and some of the beds might be called

volcanic grit-stones. These latter strata are perhaps related to a mass

of columnar trachyte which occurs behind Castro. The sandstone

occasionally includes pebbles, and many fragments and layers of

lignite; of the latter, some are apparently formed of wood and others

of leaves: one layer on the N.W. side of Lemuy is nearly two feet in

thickness. There is also much silicified wood, both common

dicotyledonous and coniferous: a section of one specimen in the

direction of the medullary rays has, as I am informed by Mr. R. Brown,

the discs in a double row placed alternately, and not opposite as in

the true Araucaria. I found marine remains only in one spot, in some

concretions of hard calcareous sandstone: in several other districts I

have observed that organic remains were exclusively confined to such

concretions; are we to account for this fact, by the supposition that

the shells lived only at these points, or is it not more probable that

their remains were preserved only where concretions were formed? The

shells here are in a bad state, they consist of:—

1. Tellinides (?) oblonga, G.B. Sowerby (a solenella in M. d’Orbigny’s

opinion). 2. Natica striolata, G.B. Sowerby. 3. Natica (?) pumila, G.B.

Sowerby. 4. Cytheraea (?) sulculosa, G.B. Sowerby (also Ypun and

Huafo?).

At the northern extremity of the island, near S. Carlos, there is a

large volcanic formation, between five and seven hundred feet in

thickness. The commonest lava is blackish-grey or brown, either

vesicular, or amygdaloidal with calcareous spar and bole: most even of

the darkest varieties fuse into a pale-coloured glass. The next

commonest variety is a rubbly, rarely well characterised pitchstone

(fusing into a white glass) which passes in the most irregular manner

into stony grey lavas. This pitchstone, as well as some purple

claystone porphyry, certainly flowed in the form of streams. These

various lavas often pass, at a considerable depth from the surface, in

the most abrupt and singular manner into wacke. Great masses of the

solid rock are brecciated, and it was generally impossible to discover

whether the recementing process had been an igneous or aqueous action.

(In a cliff of the hardest fragmentary mass, I found several tortuous,

vertical veins, varying in thickness from a few tenths of an inch to

one inch and a half, of a substance which I have not seen described. It

is glossy, and of a brown colour; it is thinly laminated, with the

laminae transparent and elastic; it is a little harder than calcareous

spar; it is infusible under the blowpipe, sometimes decrepitates, gives

out water, curls up, blackens, and becomes magnetic. Borax easily

dissolves a considerable quantity of it, and gives a glass tinged with

green. I have no idea what its true nature is. On first seeing it, I

mistook it for lignite!) The beds are obscurely separated from each

other; they are sometimes parted by seams of tuff and layers of

pebbles. In one place they rested on, and in another place were capped

by, tuffs and girt-stones, apparently of submarine origin.

The neighbouring peninsula of Lacuy is almost wholly formed of

tufaceous deposits, connected probably in their origin with the

volcanic hills just described. The tuffs are pale-coloured, alternating

with laminated mudstones and sandstones (all easily fusible), and

passing sometimes into fine-grained white beds strikingly resembling

the great upper infusorial deposit of Patagonia, and sometimes into

brecciolas with pieces of pumice in the last stage of decay; these

again pass into ordinary coarse breccias and conglomerates of hard

rocks. Within very short distances, some of the finer tuffs often

passed into each other in a peculiar manner, namely, by irregular

polygonal concretions of one variety increasing so much and so suddenly

in size, that the second variety, instead of any longer forming the

entire mass, was left merely in thin veins between the concretions. In

a straight line of cliffs, at Point Tenuy, I examined the following

remarkable section (Figure 19):—

(FIGURE 19.)

On the left hand, the lower part (AA) consists of regular, alternating

strata of brown tuffs and greenish laminated mudstone, gently inclined

to the right, and conformably covered by a mass (B left) of a white,

tufaceous and brecciolated deposit. On the right hand, the whole cliff

(BB right) consists of the same white tufaceous matter, which on this

side presents scarcely a trace of stratification, but to the left

becomes very gradually and rather indistinctly divided into strata

quite conformable with the underlying beds (AA): moreover, a few

hundred yards further to the left, where the surface has been less

denuded, the tufaceous strata (B left) are conformably covered by

another set of strata, like the underlying ones (AA) of this section.

In the middle of the diagram, the beds (AA) are seen to be abruptly cut

off, and to abut against the tufaceous non-stratified mass; but the

line of junction has been accidentally not represented steep enough,

for I particularly noticed that before the beds had been tilted to the

right, this line must have been nearly vertical. It appears that a

current of water cut for itself a deep and steep submarine channel, and

at the same time or afterwards filled it up with the tufaceous and

brecciolated matter, and spread the same over the surrounding submarine

beds; the matter becoming stratified in these more distant and less

troubled parts, and being moreover subsequently covered up by other

strata (like AA) not shown in the diagram. It is singular that three of

the beds (of AA) are prolonged in their proper direction, as

represented, beyond the line of junction into the white tufaceous

matter: the prolonged portions of two of the beds are rounded; in the

third, the terminal fragment has been pushed upwards: how these beds

could have been left thus prolonged, I will not pretend to explain. In

another section on the opposite side of a promontory, there was at the

foot of this same line of junction, that is at the bottom of the old

submarine channel, a pile of fragments of the strata (AA), with their

interstices filled up with white tufaceous matter: this is exactly what

might have been anticipated under such circumstances.

(FIGURE 20. GROUND PLAN SHOWING THE RELATION BETWEEN VEINS AND

CONCRETIONARY ZONES IN A MASS OF TUFF.)

The various tufaceous and other beds at this northern end of Chiloe

probably belong to about the same age with those near Castro, and they

contain, as there, many fragments of black lignite and of silicified

and pyritous wood, often embedded close together. They also contain

many and singular concretions: some are of hard calcareous sandstone,

in which it would appear that broken volcanic crystals and scales of

mica have been better preserved (as in the case of the organic remains

near Castro) than in the surrounding mass. Other concretions in the

white brecciola are of a hard, ferruginous, yet fusible, nature; they

are as round as cannon-balls, and vary from two or three inches to two

feet in diameter; their insides generally consist either of fine,

scarcely coherent volcanic sand (The frequent tendency in iron to form

hollow concretions or shell containing incoherent matter is singular;

D’Aubuisson (“Traite de Geogn.” tome 1 page 318) remarks on this

circumstance.), or of an argillaceous tuff; in this latter case, the

external crust was quite thin and hard. Some of these spherical balls

were encircled in the line of their equators, by a necklace-like row of

smaller concretions. Again there were other concretions, irregularly

formed, and composed of a hard, compact, ash- coloured stone, with an

almost porcelainous fracture, adhesive to the tongue, and without any

calcareous matter. These beds are, also, interlaced by many veins,

containing gypsum, ferruginous matter, calcareous spar, and agate. It

was here seen with remarkable distinctness, how intimately

concretionary action and the production of fissures and veins are

related together. Figure 20 is an accurate representation of a

horizontal space of tuff, about four feet long by two and a half in

width: the double lines represent the fissures partially filled with

oxide of iron and agate: the curvilinear lines show the course of the

innumerable, concentric, concretionary zones of different shades of

colour and of coarseness in the particles of tuff. The symmetry and

complexity of the arrangement gave the surface an elegant appearance.

It may be seen how obviously the fissures determine (or have been

determined by) the shape, sometimes of the whole concretion, and

sometimes only of its central parts. The fissures also determine the

curvatures of the long undulating zones of concretionary action. From

the varying composition of the veins and concretions, the amount of

chemical action which the mass has undergone is surprisingly great; and

it would likewise appear from the difference in size in the particles

of the concretionary zones, that the mass, also, has been subjected to

internal mechanical movements.

In the peninsula of Lacuy, the strata over a width of four miles have

been upheaved by three distinct, and some other indistinct, lines of

elevation, ranging within a point of north and south. One line, about

two hundred feet in height, is regularly anticlinal, with the strata

dipping away on both sides, at an angle of 15 degrees, from a central

“valley of elevation,” about three hundred yards in width. A second

narrow steep ridge, only sixty feet high, is uniclinal, the strata

throughout dipping westward; those on both flanks being inclined at an

angle of from ten to fifteen degrees; whilst those on the ridge dip in

the same direction at an angle of between thirty and forty degrees.

This ridge, traced northwards, dies away; and the beds at its terminal

point, instead of dipping westward, are inclined 12 degrees to the

north. This case interested me, as being the first in which I found in

South America, formations perhaps of tertiary origin, broken by lines

of elevation.

VALDIVIA: ISLAND OF MOCHA.

The formations of Chiloe seem to extend with nearly the same character

to Valdivia, and for some leagues northward of it: the underlying rocks

are micaceous schists, and are covered up with sandstone and other

sedimentary beds, including, as I was assured, in many places layers of

lignite. I did not land on Mocha (latitude 38 degrees 20 minutes), but

Mr. Stokes brought me specimens of the grey, fine-grained, slightly

calcareous sandstone, precisely like that of Huafo, containing lignite

and numerous Turritellae. The island is flat topped, 1,240 feet in

height, and appears like an outlier of the sedimentary beds on the

mainland. The few shells collected consist of:—

1. Turritella Chilensis, G.B. Sowerby (also at Huafo). 2. Fusus, very

imperfect, somewhat resembling F. subreflexus of Navidad, but probably

different. 3. Venus, fragments of.

CONCEPCION.

Sailing northward from Valdivia, the coast-cliffs are seen, first to

assume near the R. Tolten, and thence for 150 miles northward, to be

continued with the same mineralogical characters, immediately to be

described at Concepcion. I heard in many places of beds of lignite,

some of it fine and glossy, and likewise of silicified wood; near the

Tolten the cliffs are low, but they soon rise in height; and the

horizontal strata are prolonged, with a nearly level surface, until

coming to a more lofty tract between points Rumena and Lavapie. Here

the beds have been broken up by at least eight or nine parallel lines

of elevation, ranging E. or E.N.E. and W. or W.S.W. These lines can be

followed with the eye many miles into the interior; they are all

uniclinal, the strata in each dipping to a point between S. and S.S.E.

with an inclination in the central lines of about forty degrees, and in

the outer ones of under twenty degrees. This band of symmetrically

troubled country is about eight miles in width.

The island of Quiriquina, in the Bay of Concepcion, is formed of

various soft and often ferruginous sandstones, with bands of pebbles,

and with the lower strata sometimes passing into a conglomerate resting

on the underlying metamorphic schists. These beds include subordinate

layers of greenish impure clay, soft micaceous and calcareous

sandstones, and reddish friable earthy matter with white specks like

decomposed crystals of feldspar; they include, also, hard concretions,

fragments of shells, lignite, and silicified wood. In the upper part

they pass into white, soft sediments and brecciolas, very like those

described at Chiloe; as indeed is the whole formation. At Lirguen and

other places on the eastern side of the bay, there are good sections of

the lower sandstones, which are generally ferruginous, but which vary

in character, and even pass into an argillaceous nature; they contain

hard concretions, fragments of lignite, silicified wood, and pebbles

(of the same rocks with the pebbles in the sandstones of Quiriquina),

and they alternate with numerous, often very thin layers of imperfect

coal, generally of little specific gravity. The main bed here is three

feet thick; and only the coal of this one bed has a glossy fracture.

Another irregular, curvilinear bed of brown, compact lignite, is

remarkable for being included in a mass of coarse gravel. These

imperfect coals, when placed in a heap, ignite spontaneously. The

cliffs on this side of the bay, as well as on the island of Quiriquina,

are capped with red friable earth, which, as stated in the Second

Chapter, is of recent formation. The stratification in this

neighbourhood is generally horizontal; but near Lirguen the beds dip

N.W. at an angle of 23 degrees; near Concepcion they are also inclined:

at the northern end of Quiriquina they have been tilted at an angle of

30 degrees, and at the southern end at angles varying from 15 degrees

to 40 degrees: these dislocations must have taken place under the sea.

A collection of shells, from the island of Quiriquina, has been

described by M. d’Orbigny: they are all extinct, and from their generic

character, M. d’Orbigny inferred that they were of tertiary origin:

they consist of:—

1. Scalaria Chilensis, d’Orbigny, “Voyage, Part Pal.” 2. Natica

Araucana, d’Orbigny, “Voyage, Part Pal.” 3. Natica australis,

d’Orbigny, “Voyage, Part Pal.” 4. Fusus difficilis, d’Orbigny, “Voyage,

Part Pal.” 5. Pyrula longirostra, d’Orbigny, “Voyage, Part Pal.” 6.

Pleurotoma Araucana, d’Orbigny, “Voyage, Part Pal.” 7. Cardium auca,

d’Orbigny, “Voyage, Part Pal.” 8. Cardium acuticostatum, d’Orbigny,

“Voyage, Part Pal.” 9. Venus auca, d’Orbigny, “Voyage, Part Pal.” 10.

Mactra cecileana, d’Orbigny, “Voyage, Part Pal.” 11. Mactra Araucana,

d’Orbigny, “Voyage, Part Pal.” 12. Arca Araucana, d’Orbigny, “Voyage,

Part Pal.” 13. Nucula Largillierti, d’Orbigny, “Voyage, Part Pal.” 14.

Trigonia Hanetiana, d’Orbigny, “Voyage, Part Pal.”

During a second visit of the “Beagle” to Concepcion, Mr. Kent collected

for me some silicified wood and shells out of the concretions in the

sandstone from Tome, situated a short distance north of Lirguen. They

consist of:—

1. Natica australis, d’Orbigny, “Voyage, Part Pal.” 2. Mactra Araucana,

d’Orbigny, “Voyage, Part Pal.” 3. Trigonia Hanetiana, d’Orbigny,

“Voyage, Part Pal.” 4. Pecten, fragments of, probably two species, but

too imperfect for description. 5. Baculites vagina, E. Forbes. 6.

Nautilus d’Orbignyanus, E. Forbes.

Besides these shells, Captain Belcher found here an Ammonite, nearly

three feet in diameter, and so heavy that he could not bring it away;

fragments are deposited at Haslar Hospital: he also found the

silicified vertebrae of some very large animal. (“Zoology of Captain

Beechey’s Voyage” page 163.) From the identity in mineralogical nature

of the rocks, and from Captain Belcher’s minute description of the

coast between Lirguen and Tome, the fossiliferous concretions at this

latter place certainly belong to the same formation with the beds

examined by myself at Lirguen; and these again are undoubtedly the same

with the strata of Quiriquina; moreover; the three first of the shells

from Tome, though associated in the same concretions with the Baculite,

are identical with the species from Quiriquina. Hence all the sandstone

and lignitiferous beds in this neighbourhood certainly belong to the

same formation. Although the generic character of the Quiriquina

fossils naturally led M. d’Orbigny to conceive that they were of

tertiary origin, yet as we now find them associated with the Baculites

vagina and with an Ammonite, we must, in the opinion of M. d’Orbigny,

and if we are guided by the analogy of the northern hemisphere, rank

them in the Cretaceous system. Moreover, the Baculites vagina, which is

in a tolerable state of preservation, appears to Professor E. Forbes

certainly to be identical with a species, so named by him, from

Pondicherry in India; where it is associated with numerous decidedly

cretaceous species, which approach most nearly to Lower Greensand or

Neocomian forms: this fact, considering the vast distance between Chile

and India, is truly surprising. Again, the Nautilus d’Orbignyanus, as

far as its imperfect state allows of comparison, resembles, as I am

informed by Professor Forbes, both in its general form and in that of

its chambers, two species from the Upper Greensand. It may be added

that every one of the above-named genera from Quiriquina, which have an

apparently tertiary character, are found in the Pondicherry strata.

There are, however, some difficulties on this view of the formations at

Concepcion being cretaceous, which I shall afterwards allude to; and I

will here only state that the Cardium auca is found also at Coquimbo,

the beds at which place, there can be no doubt, are tertiary.

NAVIDAD. (I was guided to this locality by the Report on M. Gay’s

“Geological Researches” in the “Annales des Scienc. Nat.” 1st series

tome 28.)

The Concepcion formation extends some distance northward, but how far I

know not; for the next point at which I landed was at Navidad, 160

miles north of Concepcion, and 60 miles south of Valparaiso. The cliffs

here are about eight hundred feet in height: they consist, wherever I

could examine them, of fine-grained, yellowish, earthy sandstones, with

ferruginous veins, and with concretions of hard calcareous sandstone.

In one part, there were many pebbles of the common metamorphic

porphyries of the Cordillera: and near the base of the cliff, I

observed a single rounded boulder of greenstone, nearly a yard in

diameter. I traced this sandstone formation beneath the superficial

covering of gravel, for some distance inland: the strata are slightly

inclined from the sea towards the Cordillera, which apparently has been

caused by their having been accumulated against or round outlying

masses of granite, of which some points project near the coast. The

sandstone contains fragments of wood, either in the state of lignite or

partially silicified, sharks’ teeth, and shells in great abundance,

both high up and low down the sea-cliffs. Pectunculus and Oliva were

most numerous in individuals, and next to them Turritella and Fusus. I

collected in a short time, though suffering from illness, the following

thirty-one species, all of which are extinct, and several of the genera

do not now range (as we shall hereafter show) nearly so far south:—

1. Gastridium cepa, G.B. Sowerby. 2. Monoceros, fragments of,

considered by M. d’Orbigny as a new species. 3. Voluta alta, G.B.

Sowerby (considered by M. d’Orbigny as distinct from the V. alta of

Santa Cruz). 4. Voluta triplicata, G.B. Sowerby. 5. Oliva dimidiata,

G.B. Sowerby. 6. Pleurotoma discors, G.B. Sowerby. 7. Pleurotoma

turbinelloides, G.B. Sowerby. 8. Fusus subreflexus, G.B. Sowerby. 9.

Fusus pyruliformis, G.B. Sowerby. 10. Fusus, allied to F. regularis

(considered by M. d’Orbigny as a distinct species). 11. Turritella

suturalis, G.B. Sowerby. 12. Turritella Patagonica, G.B. Sowerby

(fragments of). 13. Trochus laevis, G.B. Sowerby. 14. Trochus collaris,

G.B. Sowerby (considered by M. d’Orbigny as the young of the T.

laevis). 15. Cassis monilifer, G.B. Sowerby. 16. Pyrula distans, G.B.

Sowerby. 17. Triton verruculosus, G.B. Sowerby. 18. Sigaretus

subglobosus, G.B. Sowerby. 19. Natica solida, G.B. Sowerby. (It is

doubtful whether the Natica solida of S. Cruz is the same species with

this.) 20. Terebra undulifera, G.B. Sowerby. 21. Terebra costellata,

G.B. Sowerby. 22. Bulla (fragments of). 23. Dentalium giganteum, do.

24. Dentalium sulcosum, do. 25. Corbis (?) laevigata, do. 26. Cardium

multiradiatum, do. 27. Venus meridionalis, do. 28. Pectunculus dispar,

(?) Desh. (considered by M. d’Orbigny as a distinct species). 29, 30.

Cytheraea and Mactra, fragments of (considered by M. d’Orbigny as new

species). 31. Pecten, fragments of.

COQUIMBO.

(FIGURE 21. SECTION OF THE TERTIARY FORMATION AT COQUIMBO.

From Level of Sea to Surface of plain, 252 feet above sea, through

levels F, E, D and C:

F.—Lower sandstone, with concretions and silicified bones, with fossil

shells, all, or nearly all, extinct.

E.—Upper ferruginous sandstone, with numerous Balani, with fossil

shells, all, or nearly all, extinct.

C and D.—Calcareous beds with recent shells.

A.—Stratified sand in a ravine, also with recent shells.)

For more than two hundred miles northward of Navidad, the coast

consists of plutonic and metamorphic rocks, with the exception of some

quite insignificant superficial beds of recent origin. At Tonguay,

twenty-five miles south of Coquimbo, tertiary beds recommence. I have

already minutely described in the Second Chapter, the step-formed

plains of Coquimbo, and the upper calcareous beds (from twenty to

thirty feet in thickness) containing shells of recent species, but in

different proportions from those on the beach. There remains to be

described only the underlying ancient tertiary beds, represented in

Figure 21 by the letters F and E:—

I obtained good sections of bed F only in Herradura Bay: it consists of

soft whitish sandstone, with ferruginous veins, some pebbles of

granite, and concretionary layers of hard calcareous sandstone. These

concretions are remarkable from the great number of large silicified

bones, apparently of cetaceous animals, which they contain; and

likewise of a shark’s teeth, closely resembling those of the Carcharias

megalodon. Shells of the following species, of which the gigantic

Oyster and Perna are the most conspicuous, are numerously embedded in

the concretions:—

1. Bulla ambigua, d’Orbigny “Voyage” Pal. 2. Monoceros Blainvillii,

d’Orbigny “Voyage” Pal. 3. Cardium auca, d’Orbigny “Voyage” Pal. 4.

Panopaea Coquimbensis, d’Orbigny “Voyage” Pal. 5. Perna Gaudichaudi,

d’Orbigny “Voyage” Pal. 6. Artemis ponderosa; Mr. Sowerby can find no

distinguishing character between this fossil and the recent A.

ponderosa; it is certainly an Artemis, as shown by the pallial

impression. 7. Ostrea Patagonica (?); Mr. Sowerby can point out no

distinguishing character between this species and that so eminently

characteristic of the great Patagonian formation; but he will not

pretend to affirm that they are identical. 8. Fragments of a Venus and

Natica.

The cliffs on one side of Herradura Bay are capped by a mass of

stratified shingle, containing a little calcareous matter, and I did

not doubt that it belonged to the same recent formation with the gravel

on the surrounding plains, also cemented by calcareous matter, until to

my surprise, I found in the midst of it, a single thin layer almost

entirely composed of the above gigantic oyster.

At a little distance inland, I obtained several sections of the bed E,

which, though different in appearance from the lower bed F, belongs to

the same formation: it consists of a highly ferruginous sandy mass,

almost composed, like the lowest bed at Port S. Julian, of fragments of

Balanidae; it includes some pebbles, and layers of yellowish-brown

mudstone. The embedded shells consist of:—

1. Monoceros Blainvillii, d’Orbigny “Voyage” Pal. 2. Monoceros

ambiguus, G.B. Sowerby. 3. Anomia alternans, G.B. Sowerby. 4. Pecten

rudis, G.B. Sowerby. 5. Perna Gaudichaudi, d’Orbigny “Voyage” Pal. 6.

Ostrea Patagonica (?), d’Orbigny “Voyage” Pal. 7. Ostrea, small

species, in imperfect state; it appeared to me like a small kind now

living in, but very rare in the bay. 8. Mytilus Chiloensis; Mr. Sowerby

can find no distinguishing character between this fossil, as far as its

not very perfect condition allows of comparison, and the recent

species. 9. Balanus Coquimbensis, G.B. Sowerby. 10. Balanus psittacus?

King. This appears to Mr. Sowerby and myself identical with a very

large and common species now living on the coast.

The uppermost layers of this ferrugino-sandy mass are conformably

covered by, and impregnated to the depth of several inches with, the

calcareous matter of the bed D called losa: hence I at one time

imagined that there was a gradual passage between them; but as all the

species are recent in the bed D, whilst the most characteristic shells

of the uppermost layers of E are the extinct Perna, Pecten, and

Monoceros, I agree with M. d’Orbigny, that this view is erroneous, and

that there is only a mineralogical passage between them, and no gradual

transition in the nature of their organic remains. Besides the fourteen

species enumerated from these two lower beds, M. d’Orbigny has

described ten other species given to him from this locality; namely:—

1. Fusus Cleryanus, d’Orbigny “Voyage” Pal. 2. Fusus petitianus,

d’Orbigny “Voyage” Pal. 3. Venus hanetiana, d’Orbigny “Voyage” Pal. 4.

Venus incerta (?) d’Orbigny “Voyage” Pal. 5. Venus Cleryana, d’Orbigny

“Voyage” Pal. 6. Venus petitiana, d’Orbigny “Voyage” Pal. 7. Venus

Chilensis, d’Orbigny “Voyage” Pal. 8. Solecurtus hanetianus, d’Orbigny

“Voyage” Pal. 9. Mactra auca, d’Orbigny “Voyage” Pal. 10. Oliva serena,

d’Orbigny “Voyage” Pal.

Of these twenty-four shells, all are extinct, except, according to Mr.

Sowerby, the Artemis ponderosa, Mytilus Chiloensis, and probably the

great Balanus.

COQUIMBO TO COPIAPO.

A few miles north of Coquimbo, I met with the ferruginous, balaniferous

mass E with many silicified bones; I was informed that these silicified

bones occur also at Tonguay, south of Coquimbo: their number is

certainly remarkable, and they seem to take the place of the silicified

wood, so common on the coast-formations of Southern Chile. In the

valley of Chaneral, I again saw this same formation, capped with the

recent calcareous beds. I here left the coast, and did not see any more

of the tertiary formations, until descending to the sea at Copiapo:

here in one place I found variously coloured layers of sand and soft

sandstone, with seams of gypsum, and in another place, a comminuted

shelly mass, with layers of rotten-stone and seams of gypsum, including

many of the extinct gigantic oyster: beds with these oysters are said

to occur at English Harbour, a few miles north of Copiapo.

COAST OF PERU.

With the exception of deposits containing recent shells and of quite

insignificant dimensions, no tertiary formations have been observed on

this coast, for a space of twenty-two degrees of latitude north of

Copiapo, until coming to Payta, where there is said to be a

considerable calcareous deposit: a few fossils have been described by

M. d’Orbigny from this place, namely:—

1. Rostellaria Gaudichaudi, d’Orbigny “Voyage” Pal. 2. Pectunculus

Paytensis, d’Orbigny “Voyage” Pal. 3. Venus petitiana, d’Orbigny

“Voyage” Pal. 4. Ostrea Patagonica? This great oyster (of which

specimens have been given me) cannot be distinguished by Mr. Sowerby

from some of the varieties from Patagonia; though it would be hazardous

to assert it is the same with that species, or with that from Coquimbo.

CONCLUDING REMARKS.

The formations described in this chapter, have, in the case of Chiloe

and probably in that of Concepcion and Navidad, apparently been

accumulated in troughs formed by submarine ridges extending parallel to

the ancient shores of the continent; in the case of the islands of

Mocha and Huafo it is highly probable, and in that of Ypun and Lemus

almost certain, that they were accumulated round isolated rocky centres

or nuclei, in the same manner as mud and sand are now collecting round

the outlying islets and reefs in the West Indian Archipelago. Hence, I

may remark, it does not follow that the outlying tertiary masses of

Mocha and Huafo were ever continuously united at the same level with

the formations on the mainland, though they may have been of

contemporaneous origin, and been subsequently upraised to the same

height. In the more northern parts of Chile, the tertiary strata seem

to have been separately accumulated in bays, now forming the mouths of

valleys.

The relation between these several deposits on the shores of the

Pacific, is not nearly so clear as in the case of the tertiary

formations on the Atlantic. Judging from the form and height of the

land (evidence which I feel sure is here much more trustworthy than it

can ever be in such broken continents as that of Europe), from the

identity of mineralogical composition, from the presence of fragments

of lignite and of silicified wood, and from the intercalated layers of

imperfect coal, I must believe that the coast-formations from Central

Chiloe to Concepcion, a distance of 400 miles, are of the same age:

from nearly similar reasons, I suspect that the beds of Mocha, Huafo,

and Ypun, belong also to the same period. The commonest shell in Mocha

and Huafo is the same species of Turritella; and I believe the same

Cytheraea is found on the islands of Huafo, Chiloe, and Ypun; but with

these trifling exceptions, the few organic remains found at these

places are distinct. The numerous shells from Navidad, with the

exception of two, namely, the Sigaretus and Turritella found at Ypun,

are likewise distinct from those found in any other part of this coast.

Coquimbo has Cardium auca in common with Concepcion, and Fusus

Cleryanus with Huafo; I may add, that Coquimbo has Venus petitiana, and

a gigantic oyster (said by M. d’Orbigny also to be found a little south

of Concepcion) in common with Payta, though this latter place is

situated twenty-two degrees northward of latitude 27 degrees, to which

point the Coquimbo formation extends.

From these facts, and from the generic resemblance of the fossils from

the different localities, I cannot avoid the suspicion that they all

belong to nearly the same epoch, which epoch, as we shall immediately

see, must be a very ancient tertiary one. But as the Baculite,

especially considering its apparent identity with the Cretaceous

Pondicherry species, and the presence of an Ammonite, and the

resemblance of the Nautilus to two upper greensand species, together

afford very strong evidence that the formation of Concepcion is a

Secondary one; I will, in my remarks on the fossils from the other

localities, put on one side those from Concepcion and from Eastern

Chiloe, which, whatever their age may be, appear to me to belong to one

group. I must, however, again call attention to the fact that the

Cardium auca is found both at Concepcion and in the undoubtedly

tertiary strata of Coquimbo: nor should the possibility be overlooked,

that as Trigonia, though known in the northern hemisphere only as a

Secondary genus, has living representatives in the Australian seas, so

a Baculite, Ammonite, and Trigonia may have survived in this remote

part of the southern ocean to a somewhat later period than to the north

of the equator.

Before passing in review the fossils from the other localities, there

are two points, with respect to the formations between Concepcion and

Chiloe, which deserve some notice. First, that though the strata are

generally horizontal, they have been upheaved in Chiloe in a set of

parallel anticlinal and uniclinal lines ranging north and south,—in the

district near P. Rumena by eight or nine far-extended, most

symmetrical, uniclinal lines ranging nearly east and west,—and in the

neighbourhood of Concepcion by less regular single lines, directed both

N.E. and S.W., and N.W. and S.E. This fact is of some interest, as

showing that within a period which cannot be considered as very ancient

in relation to the history of the continent, the strata between the

Cordillera and the Pacific have been broken up in the same variously

directed manner as have the old plutonic and metamorphic rocks in this

same district. The second point is, that the sandstone between

Concepcion and Southern Chiloe is everywhere lignitiferous, and

includes much silicified wood; whereas the formations in Northern Chile

do not include beds of lignite or coal, and in place of the fragments

of silicified wood there are silicified bones. Now, at the present day,

from Cape Horn to near Concepcion, the land is entirely concealed by

forests, which thin out at Concepcion, and in Central and Northern

Chile entirely disappear. This coincidence in the distribution of the

fossil wood and the living forests may be quite accidental; but I

incline to take a different view of it; for, as the difference in

climate, on which the presence of forests depends, is here obviously in

chief part due to the form of the land, and as the Cordillera

undoubtedly existed when the lignitiferous beds were accumulating, I

conceive it is not improbable that the climate, during the

lignitiferous period, varied on different parts of the coast in a

somewhat similar manner as it now does. Looking to an earlier epoch,

when the strata of the Cordillera were depositing, there were islands

which even in the latitude of Northern Chile, where now all is

irreclaimably desert, supported large coniferous forests.

TABLE 4.

Column 1. Genera, with living and tertiary species on the west coast of

South America. (M. d’Orbigny states that the genus Natica is not found

on the coast of Chile; but Mr. Cuming found it at Valparaiso. Scalaria

was found at Valparaiso; Arca, at Iquique, in latitude 20, by Mr.

Cuming; Arca, also, was found by Captain King, at Juan Fernandez, in

latitude 33 degrees 30′S.)

Column 2. Latitudes, in which found fossil on the coasts of Chile and

Peru. (In degrees and minutes.)

Column 3. Southernmost latitude, in which found living on the west

coast of South America. (In degrees and minutes.)

Bulla : 30 to 43 30 : 12 near Lima.

Cassis : 34 : 1 37.

Pyrula : 34 (and 36 30 at Concepcion) : 5 Payta.

Fusus : 30 and 43 30 : 23 Mexillones; reappears at the St. of Magellan.

Pleurotoma : 34 to 43 30 : 2 18 St. Elena.

Terebra : 34 : 5 Payta.

Sigaretus : 34 to 44 30 : 12 Lima.

Anomia : 30 : 7 48.

Perna : 30 : 1 23 Xixappa.

Cardium : 30 to 34 (and 36 30 at Concepcion) : 5 Payta.

Artemis : 30 : 5 Payta.

Voluta : 34 to 44 30 : Mr. Cuming does not know of any species living

on the west coast, between the equator and latitude 43 south; from this

latitude a species is found as far south as Tierra del Fuego.

Seventy-nine species of fossil shells, in a tolerably recognisable

condition, from the coast of Chile and Peru, are described in this

volume, and in the Palaeontological part of M. d’Orbigny’s “Voyage”: if

we put on one side the twenty species exclusively found at Concepcion

and Chiloe, fifty-nine species from Navidad and the other specified

localities remain. Of these fifty-nine species only an Artemis, a

Mytilus and Balanus, all from Coquimbo, are (in the opinion of Mr.

Sowerby, but not in that of M. d’Orbigny) identical with living shells;

and it would certainly require a better series of specimens to render

this conclusion certain. Only the Turritella Chilensis from Huafo and

Mocha, the T. Patagonica and Venus meridionalis from Navidad, come very

near to recent South American shells, namely, the two Turritellas to T.

cingulata, and the Venus to V. exalbida: some few other species come

rather less near; and some few resemble forms in the older European

tertiary deposits: none of the species resemble secondary forms. Hence

I conceive there can be no doubt that these formations are tertiary,—a

point necessary to consider, after the case of Concepcion. The

fifty-nine species belong to thirty-two genera; of these, Gastridium is

extinct, and three or four of the genera (viz. Panopaea, Rostellaria,

Corbis (?), and I believe Solecurtus) are not now found on the west

coast of South America. Fifteen of the genera have on this coast living

representatives in about the same latitudes with the fossil species;

but twelve genera now range very differently to what they formerly did.

The idea of Table 4, in which the difference between the extension in

latitude of the fossil and existing species is shown, is taken from M.

d’Orbigny’s work; but the range of the living shells is given on the

authority of Mr. Cuming, whose long-continued researches on the

conchology of South America are well-known.

When we consider that very few, if any, of the fifty-nine fossil shells

are identical with, or make any close approach to, living species; when

we consider that some of the genera do not now exist on the west coast

of South America, and that no less than twelve genera out of the

thirty-two formerly ranged very differently from the existing species

of the same genera, we must admit that these deposits are of

considerable antiquity, and that they probably verge on the

commencement of the tertiary era. May we not venture to believe, that

they are of nearly contemporaneous origin with the Eocene formations of

the northern hemisphere?

Comparing the fossil remains from the coast of Chile (leaving out, as

before, Concepcion and Chiloe) with those from Patagonia, we may

conclude, from their generic resemblance, and from the small number of

the species which from either coast approach closely to living forms,

that the formations of both belong to nearly the same epoch; and this

is the opinion of M. D’Orbigny. Had not a single fossil shell been

common to the two coasts, it could not have been argued that the

formations belonged to different ages; for Messrs. Cuming and Hinds

have found, on the comparison of nearly two thousand living species

from the opposite sides of South America, only one in common, namely,

the Purpura lapillus from both sides of the Isthmus of Panama: even the

shells collected by myself amongst the Chonos Islands and on the coast

of Patagonia, are dissimilar, and we must descend to the apex of the

continent, to Tierra del Fuego, to find these two great conchological

provinces united into one. Hence it is remarkable that four or five of

the fossil shells from Navidad, namely, Voluta alta, Turritella

Patagonica, Trochus collaris, Venus meridionalis, perhaps Natica

solida, and perhaps the large oyster from Coquimbo, are considered by

Mr. Sowerby as identical with species from Santa Cruz and P. Desire. M.

d’Orbigny, however, admits the perfect identity only of the Trochus.

ON THE TEMPERATURE OF THE TERTIARY PERIOD.

As the number of the fossil species and genera from the western and

eastern coasts is considerable, it will be interesting to consider the

probable nature of the climate under which they lived. We will first

take the case of Navidad, in latitude 34 degrees, where thirty-one

species were collected, and which, as we shall presently see, must have

inhabited shallow water, and therefore will necessarily well exhibit

the effects of temperature. Referring to Table 4 we find that the

existing species of the genera Cassis, Pyrula, Pleurotoma, Terebra, and

Sigaretus, which are generally (though by no means invariably)

characteristic of warmer latitudes, do not at the present day range

nearly so far south on this line of coast as the fossil species

formerly did. Including Coquimbo, we have Perna in the same

predicament. The first impression from this fact is, that the climate

must formerly have been warmer than it now is; but we must be very

cautious in admitting this, for Cardium, Bulla, and Fusus (and, if we

include Coquimbo, Anomia and Artemis) likewise formerly ranged farther

south than they now do; and as these genera are far from being

characteristic of hot climates, their former greater southern range may

well have been owing to causes quite distinct from climate: Voluta,

again, though generally so tropical a genus, is at present confined on

the west coast to colder or more southern latitudes than it was during

the tertiary period. The Trochus collaris, moreover, and, as we have

just seen according to Mr. Sowerby, two or three other species,

formerly ranged from Navidad as far south as Santa Cruz in latitude 50

degrees. If, instead of comparing the fossils of Navidad, as we have

hitherto done, with the shells now living on the west coast of South

America, we compare them with those found in other parts of the world,

under nearly similar latitudes; for instance, in the southern parts of

the Mediterranean or of Australia, there is no evidence that the sea

off Navidad was formerly hotter than what might have been expected from

its latitude, even if it was somewhat warmer than it now is when cooled

by the great southern polar current. Several of the most tropical

genera have no representative fossils at Navidad; and there are only

single species of Cassis, Pyrula, and Sigaretus, two of Pleurotoma and

two of Terebra, but none of these species are of conspicuous size. In

Patagonia, there is even still less evidence in the character of the

fossils, of the climate having been formerly warmer. (It may be worth

while to mention that the shells living at the present day on this

eastern side of South America, in latitude 40 degrees, have perhaps a

more tropical character than those in corresponding latitudes on the

shores of Europe: for at Bahia Blanca and S. Blas, there are two fine

species of Voluta and four of Oliva.) As from the various reasons

already assigned, there can be little doubt that the formations of

Patagonia and at least of Navidad and Coquimbo in Chile, are the

equivalents of an ancient stage in the tertiary formations of the

northern hemisphere, the conclusion that the climate of the southern

seas at this period was not hotter than what might have been expected

from the latitude of each place, appears to me highly important; for we

must believe, in accordance with the views of Mr. Lyell, that the

causes which gave to the older tertiary productions of the quite

temperate zones of Europe a tropical character, WERE OF A LOCAL

CHARACTER AND DID NOT AFFECT THE ENTIRE GLOBE. On the other hand, I

have endeavoured to show, in the “Geological Transactions,” that, at a

much later period, Europe and North and South America were nearly

contemporaneously subjected to ice- action, and consequently to a

colder, or at least more equable, climate than that now characteristic

of the same latitudes.

ON THE ABSENCE OF EXTENSIVE MODERN CONCHIFEROUS DEPOSITS IN SOUTH

AMERICA; AND ON THE CONTEMPORANEOUSNESS OF THE OLDER TERTIARY DEPOSITS

AT DISTANT POINTS BEING DUE TO CONTEMPORANEOUS MOVEMENTS OF SUBSIDENCE.

Knowing from the researches of Professor E. Forbes, that molluscous

animals chiefly abound within a depth of 100 fathoms and under, and

bearing in mind how many thousand miles of both coasts of South America

have been upraised within the recent period by a slow, long-continued,

intermittent movement,—seeing the diversity in nature of the shores and

the number of shells now living on them,—seeing also that the sea off

Patagonia and off many parts of Chile, was during the tertiary period

highly favourable to the accumulation of sediment,—the absence of

extensive deposits including recent shells over these vast spaces of

coast is highly remarkable. The conchiferous calcareous beds at

Coquimbo, and at a few isolated points northward, offer the most marked

exception to this statement; for these beds are from twenty to thirty

feet in thickness, and they stretch for some miles along shore,

attaining, however, only a very trifling breadth. At Valdivia there is

some sandstone with imperfect casts of shells, which POSSIBLY may

belong to the recent period: parts of the boulder formation and the

shingle-beds on the lower plains of Patagonia probably belong to this

same period, but neither are fossiliferous: it also so happens that the

great Pampean formation does not include, with the exception of the

Azara, any mollusca. There cannot be the smallest doubt that the

upraised shells along the shores of the Atlantic and Pacific, whether

lying on the bare surface, or embedded in mould or in sand-hillocks,

will in the course of ages be destroyed by alluvial action: this

probably will be the case even with the calcareous beds of Coquimbo, so

liable to dissolution by rain-water. If we take into consideration the

probability of oscillations of level and the consequent action of the

tidal-waves at different heights, their destruction will appear almost

certain. Looking to an epoch as far distant in futurity as we now are

from the past Miocene period, there seems to me scarcely a chance,

under existing conditions, of the numerous shells now living in those

zones of depths most fertile in life, and found exclusively on the

western and south-eastern coasts of South America, being preserved to

this imaginary distant epoch. A whole conchological series will in time

be swept away, with no memorials of their existence preserved in the

earth’s crust.

Can any light be thrown on this remarkable absence of recent

conchiferous deposits on these coasts, on which, at an ancient tertiary

epoch, strata abounding with organic remains were extensively

accumulated? I think there can, namely, by considering the conditions

necessary for the preservation of a formation to a distant age. Looking

to the enormous amount of denudation which on all sides of us has been

effected,—as evidenced by the lofty cliffs cutting off on so many

coasts horizontal and once far-extended strata of no great antiquity

(as in the case of Patagonia),—as evidenced by the level surface of the

ground on both sides of great faults and dislocations,—by inland lines

of escarpments, by outliers, and numberless other facts, and by that

argument of high generality advanced by Mr. Lyell, namely, that every

SEDIMENTARY formation, whatever its thickness may be, and over however

many hundred square miles it may extend, is the result and the measure

of an equal amount of wear and tear of pre-existing formations;

considering these facts, we must conclude that, as an ordinary rule, a

formation to resist such vast destroying powers, and to last to a

distant epoch, must be of wide extent, and either in itself, or

together with superincumbent strata, be of great thickness. In this

discussion, we are considering only formations containing the remains

of marine animals, which, as before mentioned, live, with some

exceptions within (most of them much within) depths of 100 fathoms.

How, then, can a thick and widely extended formation be accumulated,

which shall include such organic remains? First, let us take the case

of the bed of the sea long remaining at a stationary level: under these

circumstances it is evident that CONCHIFEROUS strata can accumulate

only to the same thickness with the depth at which the shells can live;

on gently inclined coasts alone can they accumulate to any considerable

width; and from the want of superincumbent pressure, it is probable

that the sedimentary matter will seldom be much consolidated: such

formations have no very good chance, when in the course of time they

are upraised, of long resisting the powers of denudation. The chance

will be less if the submarine surface, instead of having remained

stationary, shall have gone on slowly rising during the deposition of

the strata, for in this case their total thickness must be less, and

each part, before being consolidated or thickly covered up by

superincumbent matter, will have had successively to pass through the

ordeal of the beach; and on most coasts, the waves on the beach tend to

wear down and disperse every object exposed to their action. Now, both

on the south-eastern and western shores of South America, we have had

clear proofs that the land has been slowly rising, and in the long

lines of lofty cliffs, we have seen that the tendency of the sea is

almost everywhere to eat into the land. Considering these facts, it

ceases, I think, to be surprising, that extensive recent conchiferous

deposits are entirely absent on the southern and western shores of

America.

Let us take the one remaining case, of the bed of the sea slowly

subsiding during a length of time, whilst sediment has gone on being

deposited. It is evident that strata might thus accumulate to any

thickness, each stratum being deposited in shallow water, and

consequently abounding with those shells which cannot live at great

depths: the pressure, also, I may observe, of each fresh bed would aid

in consolidating all the lower ones. Even on a rather steep coast,

though such must ever be unfavourable to widely extended deposits, the

formations would always tend to increase in breadth from the water

encroaching on the land. Hence we may admit that periods of slow

subsidence will commonly be most favourable to the accumulation of

CONCHIFEROUS deposits, of sufficient thickness, extension, and

hardness, to resist the average powers of denudation.

We have seen that at an ancient tertiary epoch, fossiliferous deposits

were extensively deposited on the coasts of South America; and it is a

very interesting fact, that there is evidence that these ancient

tertiary beds were deposited during a period of subsidence. Thus, at

Navidad, the strata are about eight hundred feet in thickness, and the

fossil shells are abundant both at the level of the sea and some way up

the cliffs; having sent a list of these fossils to Professor E. Forbes,

he thinks they must have lived in water between one and ten fathoms in

depth: hence the bottom of the sea on which these shells once lived

must have subsided at least 700 feet to allow of the superincumbent

matter being deposited. I must here remark, that, as all these and the

following fossil shells are extinct species, Professor Forbes

necessarily judges of the depths at which they lived only from their

generic character, and from the analogical distribution of shells in

the northern hemisphere; but there is no just cause from this to doubt

the general results. At Huafo the strata are about the same thickness,

namely, 800 feet, and Professor Forbes thinks the fossils found there

cannot have lived at a greater depth than fifty fathoms, or 300 feet.

These two points, namely, Navidad and Huafo, are 570 miles apart, but

nearly halfway between them lies Mocha, an island 1,200 feet in height,

apparently formed of tertiary strata up to its level summit, and with

many shells, including the same Turritella with that found at Huafo,

embedded close to the level of the sea. In Patagonia, shells are

numerous at Santa Cruz, at the foot of the 350 feet plain, which has

certainly been formed by the denudation of the 840 feet plain, and

therefore was originally covered by strata that number of feet in

thickness, and these shells, according to Professor Forbes, probably

lived at a depth of between seven and fifteen fathoms: at Port S.

Julian, sixty miles to the north, shells are numerous at the foot of

the ninety feet plain (formed by the denudation of the 950 feet plain),

and likewise occasionally at the height of several hundred feet in the

upper strata; these shells must have lived in water somewhere between

five and fifty fathoms in depth. Although in other parts of Patagonia I

have no direct evidence of shoal-water shells having been buried under

a great thickness of superincumbent submarine strata, yet it should be

borne in mind that the lower fossiliferous strata with several of the

same species of Mollusca, the upper tufaceous beds, and the high

summit-plain, stretch for a considerable distance southward, and for

hundreds of miles northward; seeing this uniformity of structure, I

conceive it may be fairly concluded that the subsidence by which the

shells at Santa Cruz and S. Julian were carried down and covered up,

was not confined to these two points, but was co-extensive with a

considerable portion of the Patagonian tertiary formation. In a

succeeding chapter it will be seen, that we are led to a similar

conclusion with respect to the secondary fossiliferous strata of the

Cordillera, namely, that they also were deposited during a long-

continued and great period of subsidence. From the foregoing reasoning,

and from the facts just given, I think we must admit the probability of

the following proposition: namely, that when the bed of the sea is

either stationary or rising, circumstances are far less favourable,

than when the level is sinking, to the accumulation of CONCHIFEROUS

deposits of sufficient thickness and extension to resist, when

upheaved, the average vast amount of denudation. This result appears to

me, in several respects, very interesting: every one is at first

inclined to believe that at innumerable points, wherever there is a

supply of sediment, fossiliferous strata are now forming, which at some

future distant epoch will be upheaved and preserved; but on the views

above given, we must conclude that this is far from being the case; on

the contrary, we require (1st), a long-continued supply of sediment;

(2nd), an extensive shallow area; and (3rd), that this area shall

slowly subside to a great depth, so as to admit the accumulation of a

widely extended thick mass of superincumbent strata. In how few parts

of the world, probably, do these conditions at the present day concur!

We can thus, also, understand the general want of that close sequence

in fossiliferous formations which we might theoretically have

anticipated; for, without we suppose a subsiding movement to go on at

the same spot during an enormous period, from one geological era to

another, and during the whole of this period sediment to accumulate at

the proper rate, so that the depth should not become too great for the

continued existence of molluscous animals, it is scarcely possible that

there should be a perfect sequence at the same spot in the fossil

shells of the two geological formations. (Professor H.D. Rogers, in his

excellent address to the Association of American Geologists

(“Silliman’s Journal” volume 47 page 277) makes the following remark:

“I question if we are at all aware how COMPLETELY the whole history of

all departed time lies indelibly recorded with the amplest minuteness

of detail in the successive sediments of the globe, how effectually, in

other words, every period of time HAS WRITTEN ITS OWN HISTORY,

carefully preserving every created form and every trace of action.” I

think the correctness of such remarks is more than doubtful, even if we

except (as I suppose he would) all those numerous organic forms which

contain no hard parts.) So far from a very long-continued subsidence

being probable, many facts lead to the belief that the earth’s surface

oscillates up and down; and we have seen that during the elevatory

movements there is but a small chance of DURABLE fossiliferous deposits

accumulating.

Lastly, these same considerations appear to throw some light on the

fact that certain periods appear to have been favourable to the

deposition, or at least to the preservation, of contemporaneous

formations at very distant points. We have seen that in South America

an enormous area has been rising within the recent period; and in other

quarters of the globe immense spaces appear to have risen

contemporaneously. From my examination of the coral- reefs of the great

oceans, I have been led to conclude that the bed of the sea has gone on

slowly sinking within the present era, over truly vast areas: this,

indeed, is in itself probable, from the simple fact of the rising areas

having been so large. In South America we have distinct evidence that

at nearly the same tertiary period, the bed of the sea off parts of the

coast of Chile and off Patagonia was sinking, though these regions are

very remote from each other. If, then, it holds good, as a general

rule, that in the same quarter of the globe the earth’s crust tends to

sink and rise contemporaneously over vast spaces, we can at once see,

that we have at distant points, at the same period, those very

conditions which appear to be requisite for the accumulation of

fossiliferous masses of sufficient extension, thickness, and hardness,

to resist denudation, and consequently to last unto an epoch distant in

futurity. (Professor Forbes has some admirable remarks on this subject,

in his “Report on the Shells of the Aegean Sea.” In a letter to Mr.

Maclaren (“Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal” January 1843), I

partially entered into this discussion, and endeavoured to show that it

was highly improbable, that upraised atolls or barrier-reefs, though of

great thickness, should, owing to their small extension or breadth, be

preserved to a distant future period.)

CHAPTER VI.

PLUTONIC AND METAMORPHIC ROCKS:—CLEAVAGE AND FOLIATION.

Brazil, Bahia, gneiss with disjointed metamorphosed dikes.—Strike of

foliation.—Rio de Janeiro, gneiss-granite, embedded fragment in,

decomposition of.—La Plata, metamorphic and old volcanic rocks of.—S.

Ventana.—Claystone porphyry formation of Patagonia; singular

metamorphic rocks; pseudo-dikes.—Falkland Islands, Palaeozoic fossils

of.—Tierra del Fuego, clay-slate formation, cretaceous fossils of;

cleavage and foliation; form of land.—Chonos Archipelago, mica-schists,

foliation disturbed by granitic axis; dikes.—Chiloe.—Concepcion, dikes,

successive formation of.—Central and Northern Chile.—Concluding remarks

on cleavage and foliation.—Their close analogy and similar

origin.—Stratification of metamorphic schists.—Foliation of intrusive

rocks.—Relation of cleavage and foliation to the lines of tension

during metamorphosis.

The metamorphic and plutonic formations of the several districts

visited by the “Beagle” will be here chiefly treated of, but only such

cases as appear to me new, or of some special interest, will be

described in detail; at the end of the chapter I will sum up all the

facts on cleavage and foliation,— to which I particularly attended.

BAHIA, BRAZIL: latitude 13 degrees south.

The prevailing rock is gneiss, often passing, by the disappearance of

the quartz and mica, and by the feldspar losing its red colour, into a

brilliantly grey primitive greenstone. Not unfrequently quartz and

hornblende are arranged in layers in almost amorphous feldspar. There

is some fine-grained syenitic granite, orbicularly marked by

ferruginous lines, and weathering into vertical, cylindrical holes,

almost touching each other. In the gneiss, concretions of granular

feldspar and others of garnets with mica occur. The gneiss is traversed

by numerous dikes composed of black, finely crystallised, hornblendic

rock, containing a little glassy feldspar and sometimes mica, and

varying in thickness from mere threads to ten feet: these threads,

which are often curvilinear, could sometimes be traced running into the

larger dikes. One of these dikes was remarkable from having been in two

or three places laterally disjointed, with unbroken gneiss interposed

between the broken ends, and in one part with a portion of the gneiss

driven, apparently whilst in a softened state, into its side or wall.

In several neighbouring places, the gneiss included angular, well-

defined, sometimes bent, masses of hornblende rock, quite like, except

in being more perfectly crystallised, that forming the dikes, and, at

least in one instance, containing (as determined by Professor Miller)

augite as well as hornblende. In one or two cases these angular masses,

though now quite separate from each other by the solid gneiss, had,

from their exact correspondence in size and shape, evidently once been

united; hence I cannot doubt that most or all of the fragments have

been derived from the breaking up of the dikes, of which we see the

first stage in the above- mentioned laterally disjointed one. The

gneiss close to the fragments generally contained many large crystals

of hornblende, which are entirely absent or rare in other parts: its

folia or laminae were gently bent round the fragments, in the same

manner as they sometimes are round concretions. Hence the gneiss has

certainly been softened, its composition modified, and its folia

arranged, subsequently to the breaking up of the dikes, these latter

also having been at the same time bent and softened. (Professor

Hitchcock “Geology of Massachusetts” volume 2 page 673, gives a closely

similar case of a greenstone dike in syenite.)

I must here take the opportunity of premising, that by the term

CLEAVAGE I imply those planes of division which render a rock,

appearing to the eye quite or nearly homogeneous, fissile. By the term

FOLIATION, I refer to the layers or plates of different mineralogical

nature of which most metamorphic schists are composed; there are, also,

often included in such masses, alternating, homogeneous, fissile layers

or folia, and in this case the rock is both foliated and has a

cleavage. By STRATIFICATION, as applied to these formations, I mean

those alternate, parallel, large masses of different composition, which

are themselves frequently either foliated or fissile,—such as the

alternating so-called strata of mica-slate, gneiss, glossy clay-slate,

and marble.

The folia of the gneiss within a few miles round Bahia generally strike

irregularly, and are often curvilinear, dipping in all directions at

various angles: but where best defined, they extended most frequently

in a N.E. by N. (or East 50 degrees N.) and S.W. by S. line,

corresponding nearly with the coast-line northwards of the bay. I may

add that Mr. Gardner found in several parts of the province of Ceara,

which lies between four and five hundred miles north of Bahia, gneiss

with the folia extending E. 45 degrees N.; and in Guyana according to

Sir R. Schomburgk, the same rock strikes E. 57 degrees N. Again,

Humboldt describes the gneiss-granite over an immense area in Venezuela

and even in Colombia, as striking E. 50 degrees N., and dipping to the

N.W. at an angle of fifty degrees. (Gardner “Geological Section of the

British Association” 1840. For Sir R. Schomburgk’s observations see

“Geographical Journal” 1842 page 190. See also Humboldt’s discussion on

Loxodrism in the “Personal Narrative.”) Hence all the observations

hitherto made tend to show that the gneissic rocks over the whole of

this part of the continent have their folia extending generally within

almost a point of the compass of the same direction. (I landed at only

one place north of Bahia, namely, at Pernambuco. I found there only

soft, horizontally stratified matter, formed from disintegrated

granitic rocks, and some yellowish impure limestone, probably of a

tertiary epoch. I have described a most singular natural bar of hard

sandstone, which protects the harbour, in the 19th volume 1841 page 258

of the “London and Edinburgh Philosophical Magazine.”

ABROLHOS ISLETS, Latitude 18 degrees S. off the coast of Brazil.

Although not strictly in place, I do not know where I can more

conveniently describe this little group of small islands. The lowest

bed is a sandstone with ferruginous veins; it weathers into an

extraordinary honeycombed mass; above it there is a dark-coloured

argillaceous shale; above this a coarser sandstone—making a total

thickness of about sixty feet; and lastly, above these sedimentary

beds, there is a fine conformable mass of greenstone, in some parts

having a columnar structure. All the strata, as well as the surface of

the land, dip at an angle of about 12 degrees to N. by W. Some of the

islets are composed entirely of the sedimentary, others of the trappean

rocks, generally, however, with the sandstone, cropping out on the

southern shores.)

RIO DE JANEIRO.

This whole district is almost exclusively formed of gneiss, abounding

with garnets, and porphyritic with large crystals, even three and four

inches in length, of orthoclase feldspar: in these crystals mica and

garnets are often enclosed. At the western base of the Corcovado, there

is some ferruginous carious quartz-rock; and in the Tijeuka range, much

fine- grained granite. I observed boulders of greenstone in several

places; and on the islet of Villegagnon, and likewise on the coast some

miles northward, two large trappean dikes. The porphyritic gneiss, or

gneiss- granite as it has been called by Humboldt, is only so far

foliated that the constituent minerals are arranged with a certain

degree of regularity, and may be said to have a “GRAIN,” but they are

not separated into distinct folia or laminae. There are, however,

several other varieties of gneiss regularly foliated, and alternating

with each other in so-called strata. The stratification and foliation

of the ordinary gneisses, and the foliation or “grain” of the

gneiss-granite, are parallel to each other, and generally strike within

a point of N.E. and S.W. dipping at a high angle (between 50 and 60

degrees) generally to S.E.: so that here again we meet with the strike

so prevalent over the more northern parts of this continent. The

mountains of gneiss-granite are to a remarkable degree abruptly

conical, which seems caused by the rock tending to exfoliate in thick,

conically concentric layers: these peaks resemble in shape those of

phonolite and other injected rocks on volcanic islands; nor is the

grain or foliation (as we shall afterwards see) any difficulty on the

idea of the gneiss-granite having been an intrusive rather than a

metamorphic formation. The lines of mountains, but not always each

separate hill, range nearly in the same direction with the foliation

and so-called stratification, but rather more easterly.

(FIGURE 22. FRAGMENT OF GNEISS EMBEDDED IN ANOTHER VARIETY OF THE SAME

ROCK.)

On a bare gently inclined surface of the porphyritic gneiss in Botofogo

Bay, I observed the appearance represented in Figure 22. A fragment

seven yards long and two in width, with angular and distinctly defined

edges, composed of a peculiar variety of gneiss with dark layers of

mica and garnets, is surrounded on all sides by the ordinary gneiss-

granite; both having been dislocated by a granitic vein. The folia in

the fragment and in the surrounding rock strike in the same N.N.E. and

S.S.W. line; but in the fragment they are vertical, whereas in the

gneiss-granite they dip at a small angle, as shown by the arrows, to

S.S.E. This fragment, considering its great size, its solitary

position, and its foliated structure parallel to that of the

surrounding rock, is, as far as I know, a unique case: and I will not

attempt any explanation of its origin.

The numerous travellers in this country, have all been greatly

surprised at the depth to which the gneiss and other granitic rocks, as

well as the talcose slates of the interior, have been decomposed. (Spix

and Martius have collected in an Appendix to their “Travels,” the

largest body of facts on this subject. See also some remarks by M. Lund

in his communications to the Academy at Copenhagen; and others by M.

Gaudichaud in Freycinet “Voyage.”) Near Rio, every mineral except the

quartz has been completely softened, in some places to a depth little

less than one hundred feet. (Dr. Benza describes granitic rock, “Madras

Journal of Literature” etc. October 183? page 246), in the

Neelgherries, decomposed to a depth of forty feet.) The minerals retain

their positions in folia ranging in the usual direction; and fractured

quartz veins may be traced from the solid rock, running for some

distance into the softened, mottled, highly coloured, argillaceous

mass. It is said that these decomposed rocks abound with gems of

various kinds, often in a fractured state, owing, as some have

supposed, to the collapse of geodes, and that they contain gold and

diamonds. At Rio, it appeared to me that the gneiss had been softened

before the excavation (no doubt by the sea) of the existing, broad,

flat-bottomed valleys; for the depth of decomposition did not appear at

all conformable with the present undulations of the surface. The

porphyritic gneiss, where now exposed to the air, seems to withstand

decomposition remarkably well; and I could see no signs of any tendency

to the production of argillaceous masses like those here described. I

was also struck with the fact, that where a bare surface of this rock

sloped into one of the quiet bays, there were no marks of erosion at

the level of the water, and the parts both beneath and above it

preserved a uniform curve. At Bahia, the gneiss rocks are similarly

decomposed, with the upper parts insensibly losing their foliation, and

passing, without any distinct line of separation, into a bright red

argillaceous earth, including partially rounded fragments of quartz and

granite. From this circumstance, and from the rocks appearing to have

suffered decomposition before the excavation of the valleys, I suspect

that here, as at Rio, the decomposition took place under the sea. The

subject appeared to me a curious one, and would probably well repay

careful examination by an able mineralogist.

THE NORTHERN PROVINCES OF LA PLATA.

According to some observations communicated to me by Mr. Fox, the coast

from Rio de Janeiro to the mouth of the Plata seems everywhere to be

granitic, with a few trappean dikes. At Port Alegre, near the boundary

of Brazil, there are porphyries and diorites. (M. Isabelle “Voyage a

Buenos Ayres” page 479.) At the mouth of the Plata, I examined the

country for twenty-five miles west, and for about seventy miles north

of Maldonado: near this town, there is some common gneiss, and much, in

all parts of the country, of a coarse-grained mixture of quartz and

reddish feldspar, often, however, assuming a little dark-green

imperfect hornblende, and then immediately becoming foliated. The

abrupt hillocks thus composed, as well as the highly inclined folia of

the common varieties of gneiss, strike N.N.E. or a little more

easterly, and S.S.W. Clay-slate is occasionally met with, and near the

L. del Potrero, there is white marble, rendered fissile from the

presence of hornblende, mica, and asbestus; the cleavage of these rocks

and their stratification, that is the alternating masses thus composed,

strike N.N.E. and S.S.W. like the foliated gneisses, and have an almost

vertical dip. The Sierra Larga, a low range five miles west of

Maldonado, consists of quartzite, often ferruginous, having an

arenaceous feel, and divided into excessively thin, almost vertical

laminae or folia by microscopically minute scales, apparently of mica,

and striking in the usual N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction. The range itself

is formed of one principal line with some subordinate ones; and it

extends with remarkable uniformity far northward (it is said even to

the confines of Brazil), in the same line with the vertically ribboned

quartz rock of which it is composed. The S. de Las Animas is the

highest range in the country; I estimated it at 1,000 feet; it runs

north and south, and is formed of feldspathic porphyry; near its base

there is a N.N.W. and S.S.E. ridge of a conglomerate in a highly

porphyritic basis.

Northward of Maldonado, and south of Las Minas, there is an E. and W.

hilly band of country, some miles in width, formed of siliceous

clay-slate, with some quartz, rock, and limestone, having a tortuous

irregular cleavage, generally ranging east and west. E. and S.E. of Las

Minas there is a confused district of imperfect gneiss and laminated

quartz, with the hills ranging in various directions, but with each

separate hill generally running in the same line with the folia of the

rocks of which it is composed: this confusion appears to have been

caused by the intersection of the [E. and W.] and [N.N.E. and S.S.W.]

strikes. Northward of Las Minas, the more regular northerly ranges

predominate: from this place to near Polanco, we meet with the

coarse-grained mixture of quartz and feldspar, often with the imperfect

hornblende, and then becoming foliated in a N. and S. line—with

imperfect clay-slate, including laminae of red crystallised

feldspar—with white or black marble, sometimes containing asbestus and

crystals of gypsum—with quartz-rock—with syenite—and lastly, with much

granite. The marble and granite alternate repeatedly in apparently

vertical masses: some miles northward of the Polanco, a wide district

is said to be entirely composed of marble. It is remarkable, how rare

mica is in the whole range of country north and westward of Maldonado.

Throughout this district, the cleavage of the clay-slate and marble—the

foliation of the gneiss and the quartz—the stratification or

alternating masses of these several rocks—and the range of the hills,

all coincide in direction; and although the country is only hilly, the

planes of division are almost everywhere very highly inclined or

vertical.

Some ancient submarine volcanic rocks are worth mentioning, from their

rarity on this eastern side of the continent. In the valley of the

Tapas (fifty or sixty miles N. of Maldonado) there is a tract three or

four miles in length, composed of various trappean rocks with glassy

feldspar—of apparently metamorphosed grit-stones—of purplish

amygdaloids with large kernels of carbonate of lime (Near the Pan de

Azucar there is some greenish porphyry, in one place amygdaloidal with

agate.)—and much of a harshish rock with glassy feldspar intermediate

in character between claystone porphyry and trachyte. This latter rock

was in one spot remarkable from being full of drusy cavities, lined

with quartz crystals, and arranged in planes, dipping at an angle of 50

degrees to the east, and striking parallel to the foliation of an

adjoining hill composed of the common mixture of quartz, feldspar, and

imperfect hornblende: this fact perhaps indicates that these volcanic

rocks have been metamorphosed, and their constituent parts rearranged,

at the same time and according to the same laws, with the granitic and

metamorphic formations of this whole region. In the valley of the

Marmaraya, a few miles south of the Tapas, a band of trappean and

amygdaloidal rock is interposed between a hill of granite and an

extensive surrounding formation of red conglomerate, which (like that

at the foot of the S. Animas) has its basis porphyritic with crystals

of feldspar, and which hence has certainly suffered metamorphosis.

MONTE VIDEO.

The rocks here consist of several varieties of gneiss, with the

feldspar often yellowish, granular and imperfectly crystallised,

alternating with, and passing insensibly into, beds, from a few yards

to nearly a mile in thickness, of fine or coarse grained, dark-green

hornblendic slate; this again often passing into chloritic schist.

These passages seem chiefly due to changes in the mica, and its

replacement by other minerals. At Rat Island I examined a mass of

chloritic schist, only a few yards square, irregularly surrounded on

all sides by the gneiss, and intricately penetrated by many curvilinear

veins of quartz, which gradually BLEND into the gneiss: the cleavage of

the chloritic schist and the foliation of the gneiss were exactly

parallel. Eastward of the city there is much fine- grained,

dark-coloured gneiss, almost assuming the character of hornblende-

slate, which alternates in thin laminae with laminae of quartz, the

whole mass being transversely intersected by numerous large veins of

quartz: I particularly observed that these veins were absolutely

continuous with the alternating laminae of quartz. In this case and at

Rat Island, the passage of the gneiss into imperfect hornblendic or

into chloritic slate, seemed to be connected with the segregation of

the veins of quartz. (Mr. Greenough page 78 “Critical Examination”

etc., observes that quartz in mica-slate sometimes appears in beds and

sometimes in veins. Von Buch also in his “Travels in Norway” page 236,

remarks on alternating laminae of quartz and hornblende-slate replacing

mica-schist.)

The Mount, a hill believed to be 450 feet in height, from which the

place takes its name, is much the highest land in this neighbourhood:

it consists of hornblendic slate, which (except on the eastern and

disturbed base) has an east and west nearly vertical cleavage; the

longer axis of the hill also ranges in this same line. Near the summit

the hornblende-slate gradually becomes more and more coarsely

crystallised, and less plainly laminated, until it passes into a heavy,

sonorous greenstone, with a slaty conchoidal fracture; the laminae on

the north and south sides near the summit dip inwards, as if this upper

part had expanded or bulged outwards. This greenstone must, I conceive,

be considered as metamorphosed hornblende- slate. The Cerrito, the next

highest, but much less elevated point, is almost similarly composed. In

the more western parts of the province, besides gneiss, there is

quartz-rock, syenite, and granite; and at Colla, I heard of marble.

Near M. Video, the space which I more accurately examined was about

fifteen miles in an east and west line, and here I found the foliation

of the gneiss and the cleavage of the slates generally well developed,

and extending parallel to the alternating strata composed of the

gneiss, hornblendic and chloritic schists. These planes of division all

range within one point of east and west, frequently east by south and

west by north; their dip is generally almost vertical, and scarcely

anywhere under 45 degrees: this fact, considering how slightly

undulatory the surface of the country is, deserves attention. Westward

of M. Video, towards the Uruguay, wherever the gneiss is exposed, the

highly inclined folia are seen striking in the same direction; I must

except one spot where the strike was N.W. by W. The little Sierra de S.

Juan, formed of gneiss and laminated quartz, must also be excepted, for

it ranges between [N. to N.E.] and [S. to S.W.] and seems to belong to

the same system with the hills in the Maldonado district. Finally, we

have seen that, for many miles northward of Maldonado and for

twenty-five miles westward of it, as far as the S. de las Animas, the

foliation, cleavage, so-called stratification and lines of hills, all

range N.N.E. and S.S.W., which is nearly coincident with the adjoining

coast of the Atlantic. Westward of the S. de las Animas, as far as even

the Uruguay, the foliation, cleavage, and stratification (but not lines

of hills, for there are no defined ones) all range about E. by S. and

W. by N., which is nearly coincident with the direction of the northern

shore of the Plata; in the confused country near Las Minas, where these

two great systems appear to intersect each other, the cleavage,

foliation, and stratification run in various directions, but generally

coincide with the line of each separate hill.

SOUTHERN LA PLATA.

The first ridge, south of the Plata, which projects through the Pampean

formation, is the Sierra Tapalguen and Vulcan, situated 200 miles

southward of the district just described. This ridge is only a few

hundred feet in height, and runs from C. Corrientes in a W.N.W. line

for at least 150 miles into the interior: at Tapalguen, it is composed

of unstratified granular quartz, remarkable from forming tabular masses

and small plains, surrounded by precipitous cliffs: other parts of the

range are said to consist of granite: and marble is found at the S.

Tinta. It appears from M. Parchappe’s observations, that at Tandil

there is a range of quartzose gneiss, very like the rocks of the S.

Larga near Maldonado, running in the same N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction;

so that the framework of the country here is very similar to that on

the northern shore of the Plata. (M. d’Orbigny’s “Voyage” Part. Geolog.

page 46. I have given a short account of the peculiar forms of the

quartz hills of Tapalguen, so unusual in a metamorphic formation, in my

“Journal of Researches” 2nd edition page 116.)

The Sierra Guitru-gueyu is situated sixty miles south of the S.

Tapalguen: it consists of numerous parallel, sometimes blended together

ridges, about twenty-three miles in width, and five hundred feet in

height above the plain, and extending in a N.W. and S.E. direction.

Skirting round the extreme S.E. termination, I ascended only a few

points, which were composed of a fine-grained gneiss, almost composed

of feldspar with a little mica, and passing in the upper parts of the

hills into a rather compact purplish clay-slate. The cleavage was

nearly vertical, striking in a N.W. by W. and S.E. by E. line, nearly,

though not quite, coincident with the direction of the parallel ridges.

The Sierra Ventana lies close south of that of Guitru-gueyu; it is

remarkable from attaining a height, very unusual on this side of the

continent, of 3,340 feet. It consists up to its summit, of quartz,

generally pure and white, but sometimes reddish, and divided into thick

laminae or strata: in one part there is a little glossy clay-slate with

a tortuous cleavage. The thick layers of quartz strike in a W. 30

degrees N. line, dipping southerly at an angle of 45 degrees and

upwards. The principal line of mountains, with some quite subordinate

parallel ridges, range about W. 45 degrees N.: but at their S.E.

termination, only W. 25 degrees N. This Sierra is said to extend

between twenty and thirty leagues into the interior.

PATAGONIA.

With the exception perhaps of the hill of S. Antonio (600 feet high) in

the Gulf of S. Matias, which has never been visited by a geologist,

crystalline rocks are not met with on the coast of Patagonia for a

space of 380 miles south of the S. Ventana. At this point (latitude 43

degrees 50 minutes), at Points Union and Tombo, plutonic rocks are said

to appear, and are found, at rather wide intervals, beneath the

Patagonian tertiary formation for a space of about three hundred miles

southward, to near Bird Island, in latitude 48 degrees 56 minutes.

Judging from specimens kindly collected for me by Mr. Stokes, the

prevailing rock at Ports St. Elena, Camerones, Malaspina, and as far

south as the Paps of Pineda, is a purplish-pink or brownish claystone

porphyry, sometimes laminated, sometimes slightly vesicular, with

crystals of opaque feldspar and with a few grains of quartz; hence

these porphyries resemble those immediately to be described at Port

Desire, and likewise a series which I have seen from P. Alegre on the

southern confines of Brazil. This porphyritic formation further

resembles in a singularly close manner the lowest stratified formation

of the Cordillera of Chile, which, as we shall hereafter see, has a

vast range, and attains a great thickness. At the bottom of the Gulf of

St. George, only tertiary deposits appear to be present. At Cape

Blanco, there is quartz rock, very like that of the Falkland Islands,

and some hard, blue siliceous clay-slate.

At Port Desire there is an extensive formation of the claystone

porphyry, stretching at least twenty-five miles into the interior: it

has been denuded and deeply worn into gullies before being covered up

by the tertiary deposits, through which it here and there projects in

hills; those north of the bay being 440 feet in height. The strata have

in several places been tilted at small angles, generally either to

N.N.W. or S.S.E. By gradual passages and alternations, the porphyries

change incessantly in nature. I will describe only some of the

principal mineralogical changes, which are highly instructive, and

which I carefully examined. The prevailing rock has a compact purplish

base, with crystals of earthy or opaque feldspar, and often with grains

of quartz. There are other varieties, with an almost truly trachytic

base, full of little angular vesicles and crystals of glassy feldspar;

and there are beds of black perfect pitchstone, as well as of a

concretionary imperfect variety. On a casual inspection, the whole

series would be thought to be of the same plutonic or volcanic nature

with the trachytic varieties and pitchstone; but this is far from being

the case, as much of the porphyry is certainly of metamorphic origin.

Besides the true porphyries, there are many beds of earthy, quite white

or yellowish, friable, easily fusible matter, resembling chalk, which

under the microscope is seen to consist of minute broken crystals, and

which, as remarked in a former chapter, singularly resembles the upper

tufaceous beds of the Patagonian tertiary formation. This earthy

substance often becomes coarser, and contains minute rounded fragments

of porphyries and rounded grains of quartz, and in one case so many of

the latter as to resemble a common sandstone. These beds are sometimes

marked with true lines of aqueous deposition, separating particles of

different degrees of coarseness; in other cases there are parallel

ferruginous lines not of true deposition, as shown by the arrangement

of the particles, though singularly resembling them. The more indurated

varieties often include many small and some larger angular cavities,

which appear due to the removal of earthy matter: some varieties

contain mica. All these earthy and generally white stones insensibly

pass into more indurated sonorous varieties, breaking with a conchoidal

fracture, yet of small specific gravity; many of these latter varieties

assume a pale purple tint, being singularly banded and veined with

different shades, and often become plainly porphyritic with crystals of

feldspar. The formation of these crystals could be most clearly traced

by minute angular and often partially hollow patches of earthy matter,

first assuming a FIBROUS STRUCTURE, then passing into opaque

imperfectly shaped crystals, and lastly, into perfect glassy crystals.

When these crystals have appeared, and when the basis has become

compact, the rock in many places could not be distinguished from a true

claystone porphyry without a trace of mechanical structure.

In some parts, these earthy or tufaceous beds pass into jaspery and

into beautifully mottled and banded porcelain rocks, which break into

splinters, translucent at their edges, hard enough to scratch glass,

and fusible into white transparent beads: grains of quartz included in

the porcelainous varieties can be seen melting into the surrounding

paste. In other parts, the earthy or tufaceous beds either insensibly

pass into, or alternate with, breccias composed of large and small

fragments of various purplish porphyries, with the matrix generally

porphyritic: these breccias, though their subaqueous origin is in many

places shown both by the arrangement of their smaller particles and by

an oblique or current lamination, also pass into porphyries, in which

every trace of mechanical origin and stratification has been

obliterated.

Some highly porphyritic though coarse-grained masses, evidently of

sedimentary origin, and divided into thin layers, differing from each

other chiefly in the number of embedded grains of quartz, interested me

much from the peculiar manner in which here and there some of the

layers terminated in abrupt points, quite unlike those produced by a

layer of sediment naturally thinning out, and apparently the result of

a subsequent process of metamorphic aggregation. In another common

variety of a finer texture, the aggregating process had gone further,

for the whole mass consisted of quite short, parallel, often slightly

curved layers or patches, of whitish or reddish finely

granulo-crystalline feldspathic matter, generally terminating at both

ends in blunt points; these layers or patches further tended to pass

into wedge or almond-shaped little masses, and these finally into true

crystals of feldspar, with their centres often slightly drusy. The

series was so perfect that I could not doubt that these large crystals,

which had their longer axes placed parallel to each other, had

primarily originated in the metamorphosis and aggregation of

alternating layers of tuff; and hence their parallel position must be

attributed (unexpected though the conclusion may be), not to laws of

chemical action, but to the original planes of deposition. I am tempted

briefly to describe three other singular allied varieties of rock; the

first without examination would have passed for a stratified

porphyritic breccia, but all the included angular fragments consisted

of a border of pinkish crystalline feldspathic matter, surrounding a

dark translucent siliceous centre, in which grains of quartz not quite

blended into the paste could be distinguished: this uniformity in the

nature of the fragments shows that they are not of mechanical, but of

concretionary origin, having resulted perhaps from the self-breaking up

and aggregation of layers of indurated tuff containing numerous grains

of quartz,—into which, indeed, the whole mass in one part passed. The

second variety is a reddish non-porphyritic claystone, quite full of

spherical cavities, about half an inch in diameter, each lined with a

collapsed crust formed of crystals of quartz. The third variety also

consists of a pale purple non-porphyritic claystone, almost wholly

formed of concretionary balls, obscurely arranged in layers, of a less

compact and paler coloured claystone; each ball being on one side

partly hollow and lined with crystals of quartz.

PSEUDO-DIKES.

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