THE KI AND TENIMBER ISLANDS.
The Ki Islands.--Character of the People.--Arrive at
Vordate.--Improved Condition of the Natives.--Ceramese Pirates.--The
English Captives at Luora.--The Author departs for Serra in the
Boats.--Meet with a Prahu-tope.--Honesty of the Natives in their
Dealings.--Arrival at Serra.--Native Warfare.--Ceremonies attending
the Peace-making.--Return towards Vordate.--Turtles and their
Eggs.--Wild Cattle.--Arrival on Board the Brig.--Singular Customs with
regard to Trade.--Demand for Gold Coin.--Departure from the Tenimber
Islands.--Arrival at Amboyna.--Approval of our Proceedings by the
Government.--Conclusion.
We now left the inhospitable country of New Guinea, and steered to
the southward, passing near the Ki Islands. This group is composed of
several large and high islands, thinly peopled in comparison with those
around. Ki-Ili, on the east side of the Great Ki, is occupied by a
number of natives professing the Mohammedan religion, who carry on a
brisk trade with the people of the Arru Islands. Among the inhabitants
of the group are many fugitives from Banda and Ceram, who reside in the
same villages with the natives of the country. The principal islands
are called Great Ki, Little Ki, and Ki Watela. Dula, a village situated
in a bay on the west side of the Little Ki, is the chief resort of
the traders, several paduakans arriving there annually from Macassar,
while there is also considerable commercial intercourse carried on
with Banda. The people of Dula employ much of their time in building
vessels, remarkable for their strength and superiority of build, which
are in great demand at Banda, Ceram, and other places in this part of
the Archipelago, being esteemed not only for the durability of the
timber used in their construction, but also for the cheap rate at which
they can be purchased.
Ili is famous for its potteries, most of the adjacent islands deriving
their supply of earthen-ware from this and the neighbouring villages.
In their dispositions the natives of the Ki Islands are more mild and
peaceable than the generality of their neighbours. They claim certain
rights over vessels which may be stranded on their shores, and assume
some other privileges not remarkable for their justness; but this is
rather to be attributed to the system having been long established,
than to any inherent propensities to extortion.
During our voyage to the Tenimber Islands we encountered heavy
south-east winds, the monsoon being much stronger, and the rains
heavier this year, than is usually the case. I heard the same remark
made at every place I visited.
On the 26th of May we anchored close under the beautiful coast of
Vordate, between the reef running from the south-west extreme of the
island and the village of Sebeano, this anchorage being better than
the one we had taken up the previous year, which was close under the
above-mentioned reef. Immediately on our arrival the Dutch flag was
hoisted in the villages, and the chiefs came on board with a number
of prahus to welcome us back to their island, this affording a proof
of the good results attending my previous voyage, which was confirmed
on my visiting the shore, and finding that they now lived in perfect
amity with one another. The natives came on board daily, and in such
numbers, that it soon became troublesome. They are so much in the habit
of visiting with perfect freedom the trading vessels which resort to
their shores, that they considered themselves justified in doing the
same with us, it being often a matter of difficulty to keep them out of
the brig.
After our departure from these islands the preceding year, a number of
the natives had set out on a trading voyage to the islands lying to
the westward, maritime pursuits forming their favourite occupation.
They were everywhere received with friendship, and having obtained
profitable returns for their cargoes, they returned home, impressed
with thankfulness towards our Government for having established peace
among the islands, and rendered them safe for traders. According
to their information, the natives of Moa, Lette, Damma, Luan, and
the other islands, were zealously employed in erecting new _kota
companias_, or block-houses, for our residents, hoping that they would
soon have Dutch garrisons among them, while the Christian teachers were
supplied with necessaries in a most liberal manner. This news gave me
the greatest satisfaction, as it proved in the strongest manner that
my previous labours had not been fruitless. I afterwards found that
many trading vessels from these islands, even from some which had had
no communication for years, had visited Banda and Amboyna, causing
a remarkable increase in the sale of European manufactures at those
places, so that soon a most prosperous trade, coupled with increasing
prosperity to the natives, will be the result of the good measures of
our Government.
A number of prahus from Kilwari and Kinaos, had taken their station
among the islands and banks fronting the west coast of Timor-Laut, to
lie in wait for and plunder the traders of the Tenimber Islands as
they returned from their commercial voyage to the westward, and had
succeeded in mastering two jonkos, the crews of which escaped on shore
after losing some of their number. The Ceramese then plundered and
burnt their prizes. The Tenimber islanders were extremely indignant at
this act of the Ceramese, and made a sad complaint to me, thinking that
our Government was already acquainted with the affair, as the Ceramese,
when attacking them, called out that they were empowered to act as they
did by the Company, and that the Tenimber Islanders should not fire at
the Dutch flags which their opponents had received from the Government.
It cost me much trouble to convince them that the Dutch took no part
in this shameful transaction; but at length I succeeded by promising
that the Government should certainly obtain compensation from the
Ceramese for their losses.
The banks and islands to the westward of Timor-Laut are annually
visited by Ceramese jonkos, for the purpose of fishing for trepang
and tortoise-shell, or picking up any booty that may fall in their
way. Several years previously some of these had been bold enough to
approach the coast of Vordate during the night, and capture a small
fishing prahu with two men, inhabitants of Sebeano. The pirates, who
were subjects of the Raja, carried off the men to sell as slaves, but
they were fortunate enough to make their escape and return home. They
personally related to me this occurrence, and informed me of many
other misdeeds on the part of the Ceramese, an account of which I
subsequently gave to the Government.
Some time after my return to Amboyna, the Raja of Kilwari was summoned
there, and did not deny that his subjects had committed this, and other
deeds of the same description, on which he was obliged to pay a fine
of, I believe, three hundred guilders (£25) to the Tenimber Islanders.
The Raja of Kinaos was also amerced for the same transaction.
As one of the chief objects of our voyage was to visit the Island of
Serra, we made preparations, soon after our arrival at Vordate, for our
expedition thither.
It appeared to me to be impossible for the people of Vordate to
perform the promise they had made me, of redeeming the two English
youths who were held in captivity by the inhabitants of Luora, on the
east coast of Timor-Laut, since they were not in the habit of holding
communication with them. They assured me, however, that they had been
to Luora, and had found that the inhabitants would not give up their
captives unless an extravagant ransom were paid for them, as they
wished to marry them to their daughters, that their descendants might
boast of having European blood in their veins as well as the people
of Vordate, Larrat and Serra, these holding themselves as being in
some manner connected with Europeans, from their forefathers having
been distinguished as "_Anak Compania_," or Children of the Company.
The Orang Kaya, who was the only chief that visited Timor-Laut during
this year, informed me that he had seen the youths, and had offered
a considerable ransom for them without success. During the westerly
monsoon, or the period of the changes, Luora may be visited with
facility; but at the present time, when the sea breaks against the
shore in a terrible manner, such an expedition was not to be thought
of for a moment. The natives themselves appeared anxious that the
Government would send some one thither.
On the 29th, having hired the Orang Tua David to accompany us as
interpreter, we embarked on board the tender and the small boats, and
left the brig on our expedition to Serra. Towards evening we arrived
at Larrat, where we met with a tope,[51] which had arrived from Banda
during the month of April, and was about returning there with a full
cargo. The crew complained of the high price of the trepang, but in
every other respect were perfectly contented with the result of their
commercial transactions. The disturbances which had taken place at
Serra had been instrumental in decreasing the supply of trepang and
tortoise-shell, as none was now brought from that island. The goods
belonging to the tope lay in an open boat-house, which was daily
visited by numbers of the natives, without the owner having the least
fear of losing a single article, the mutual confidence with which the
trade is carried on being so great, that the trader allows a native
to take away what goods he pleases, merely mentioning the amount of
produce that is expected in return, and although the former may have no
personal knowledge of the native to whom he has delivered the goods,
he never fears that the contract will not be fulfilled. The native
immediately commences collecting produce, and never rests until he has
made full payment. It is singular that the natives never keep a supply
of trepang in hand, and only commence fishing for it when they have
received payment in advance.
The Orang Kaya and several of the other chiefs came to pay me a visit,
and complained sadly of the conduct of the Ceramese, and of the state
of affairs at Serra, which they had in vain endeavoured to reduce
to order. They appeared to be much pleased at my intention to visit
that island. As the Orang Tua David was not well acquainted with the
navigation, I requested the chiefs to hire me a prahu, promising to
make them a just remuneration for its services.
The Orang Kaya Kirimassa, and six men, having prepared themselves
to attend me with the prahu, I left Larrat the same night. Although
the tender carried only two one-pounder guns, with ammunition and
provisions, she sailed and rowed so slowly that we did not reach
Warrata, a village on the north-west end of Serra, until the 1st of
June. This island, with its inhabitants, bear so great a resemblance
to Larrat, that it will be unnecessary to enter into a particular
description of either.
The reefs which front the shore are dry at low water some distance to
seaward, it being then only possible to approach the island through
the gaps in the reef. The villages are situated near each other, while
the remainder of the island is laid out in plantations of yams and
cocoa-nut trees. The inhabitants obtain their supply of rice from the
people of Vordate, or from the foreign traders. This product forms an
extensive article of importation into these countries, as the nature
of the soil prevents its being grown in sufficient quantities for the
supply of the islanders.
The inhabitants of Serra received us in a most friendly manner, and
I immediately commenced making enquiries as to the nature of the
disturbance that had taken place. It appeared, that on the return of
the chiefs from their visit to me the preceding year with the presents
I had made them, a festival was got up to celebrate the event. A
considerable quantity of spirits was disposed of on this occasion, and
it necessarily occurred that many of the guests became very drunk,
and abused one another without mercy. The Orang Kayas Linum, Siwa,
and Kitta-Kitta, grossly insulted the Orang Kayas Leeman and Kawa,
which greatly grieved the latter and their adherents. From words they
soon came to blows, when the two chiefs who had been insulted left
their villages, and established themselves with their families on the
west coast of the island. The adherents of both parties subsequently
encountered one another on several occasions, many being killed and
wounded on both sides. Envoys from the other islands endeavoured in
vain to establish peace: the offending party wished much to make up
the affair, but the others, who had abundance of provisions, were
indifferent about the matter. On my arrival, the latter demanded an
apology from the Orang Kayas Kitta-Kitta and Linum, with the pay of
the warriors whom they had hired, stating, that in the event of these
being fulfilled, they were ready to make peace and obey the orders of
the Company.
I was received with equal friendship by both parties, and their arms
were laid aside at my request, while arrangements were made for a
meeting to decide on the terms of peace. The adherents of the offended
party had forsaken their village, and encamped about half an hour's
journey to the westward, where they had fortified their position with
palisades, watch-houses being erected in the trees round about, and
garrisoned by armed men. The mode in which the meeting was conducted
resembled that of the former ones which had taken place among the
islands, yet as it will contribute to display the character of the
natives, I will give a slight sketch of the affair.
The spot fixed on by me for the meeting was midway between the abodes
of the contending parties, and having sent forward a guard of our men,
I proceeded there myself, where I was in a manner almost stormed by
weeping women. The offending chiefs came, with the greatest humility,
unattended by any followers, while the other party advanced with
a proud bearing, fully armed, and accompanied by their national
war-music. These were clad in their best array, and certainly made
a fine warlike appearance. Some were ornamented with golden chains,
others with serpents (the thickness of the little finger) formed of
the same metal, while all were provided with golden ear-rings. Many
of the warriors had also golden bracelets on their arms, which added
considerably to the splendour of their equipment. Two of the wives of
the chiefs, dressed in handsome chintz _kabyas_, were also adorned
in a similar manner. When the two parties had approached near each
other, they stopped short, and performed their usual war-dance in a
fierce and hostile manner, after which I placed the hands of the two
principal opposing chiefs together, who immediately fell weeping upon
each other's necks, their example being followed by the others, who
embraced with tears and sobs of repentance and reconciliation, the
whole forming a scene which made a strong impression even on my hardy
seamen. Some time elapsed before they partook of the _siri_, when all
traces of enmity vanished, and all was forgotten and forgiven. I had,
certainly, never seen a more striking proof of feeling on the part of
these people.
The disturbances that had taken place were stated as the reason why the
men, who had killed our seaman at Maktia, had not been obtained, nor
the two English youths at Luora set at liberty. They promised to use
their united endeavours to effect these, and to send a report of the
event to Banda.
One evening, when several small vessels were lying around our boats, a
number of birds flew suddenly off the land, and settled, some in the
boats, and some in the water around. They proved to be quails, bearing
a perfect resemblance in every respect to those of Europe. I succeeded
in carrying five of these to Banda, without supplying them with any
other food than rice, where I had the satisfaction of presenting them
to Surgeon-Major Lengacker.
Serra does not produce so much stock as the other islands. The
natives often employ themselves in catching fish, which abound in the
adjacent waters. Hooks and lines are chiefly used. The trepang and
tortoise-shell obtained here is of a very superior quality, and is much
sought for by the traders from Amboyna and Banda.
I continued busily employed with my official duties until the 3rd of
June, when I left Serra, and commenced my return to the brig. Our
journey was much delayed by unfavourable winds, and we were daily
obliged to rest on the islands which lay in our course, the tender
rowing very heavily, while it was impossible to use the sail. The
native vessels that left with us were soon far a-head, as they rowed
with great swiftness, and could pass over the banks with facility.
Shortly after our departure we put into Maktia, where we found the
village to be in a state of utter decay. The houses were all in ruins,
everything bearing evidence to the village having been long abandoned,
while not a man could be seen around.
Every voyager in the eastern seas should be provided with plenty of
fishing tackle, which will not only be of great service, but will also
afford means of passing away time; for, I believe, that throughout the
world no seas will be found that yield such innumerable quantities of
all sorts of fish as these. With a single line sufficient fish may be
caught in a few minutes to afford a dainty meal. The drag-net, which
was used by the seamen whenever we landed on the islands, was also
found very useful, this mode of fishing being as successful as the
other. Turtle's eggs were so abundant, that the men with the assistance
of the natives, often brought them on board by basket's full. These
eggs are about the size of a billiard-ball, round, and covered with a
white, chalky film in lieu of shell. The interior is similar to that of
a hen's egg, to which they were preferred by many of our party. When
boiled, the yolk becomes firm, but the white remains soft and watery,
this being thrown aside when the egg is eaten. Six nests full of
turtles' eggs were found by us upon a sandy island near Laboba. It is
very difficult to discover the spots in which the eggs are deposited,
and requires a practised eye: the natives are very skilful in this.
When the turtle wishes to deposit her eggs, she goes on shore, on the
sandy beach, and selects a spot amid the grass, where, with her hind
feet, she makes a hole about a foot and a half deep, and having laid
from eighty to a hundred eggs, covers them carefully up, and makes a
fresh nest in some other spot. When the traces of the turtle are met
with, they are followed up until a space is found where the traces
are extinct, and here the nest will probably be met with. A stick
is thrust into the ground to find the position of the eggs, which is
often a matter of difficulty, as the ground is generally turned up
within a circumference of ten to fifteen paces. The young are brought
forth without the assistance of the parent, after the eggs have lain
under ground about three months, when the young ones crawl out of the
sand and make towards the water, which they are often prevented from
reaching by the birds of prey that lie in wait for them. The turtle are
in the habit of assembling on the beach during moon-light nights, when
they are taken with great facility. The natives usually let the female
go again, and are also averse to striking them with a harpoon, being
influenced by some superstitious feeling. They also requested that we
would not disturb the hawk's-bill turtle,[52] which we found sleeping
on the water, but willingly caught the others for us themselves.
On one of the islands at which we stopped, a large hawk's-bill turtle
was found dead in the forest. The shell was two feet and a quarter in
diameter, and yielded a head[53] weighing a pound and a half.
On one of the dry sand-banks we met with a quantity of sea-mews' eggs,
deposited in nests on the shelly sand, very close to one another, each
containing only two eggs. Numbers of the birds hovered about the bank,
their presence having first attracted our attention to the spot.
While we were at anchor under the coast of Timor-Laut one night, we
heard the lowing of a number of wild cattle, and in the morning saw the
traces of them along the sandy beach. The wild cattle, with which the
island abounds, are black, and have upright horns, their size being
about the same as that of two-year-old cattle in Holland. The natives
catch them with nooses of rattan, and also shoot them with arrows.
Wild hogs are also to be met with in abundance. Monkeys do not exist
on the island, and it is a singular thing that throughout the Moluccan
Archipelago they are only to be found on the island of Batchian, near
the south end of Gilolo.
Showers of rain, and strong unfavourable winds, rendered our return
voyage tedious and disagreeable, and we did not reach Larrat until the
9th of June. On our arrival we hauled up the tender and the boat on
the beach, to clean their bottoms, which had become very necessary. I
continued here until the 11th, busily employed with my official duties,
when I returned to the brig, accompanied by several of the chiefs.
I had given permission to one of my interpreters to take on board
a quantity of tortoise-shell and trepang, to purchase which he had
brought from Banda a quantity of goods suited to the taste of the
natives. I had thus an opportunity of witnessing closely the manner
in which the trade is conducted. He purchased a picul (133lbs.
avoirdupoise) of trepang, for goods of the value of twenty-two guilders
(£1. 17_s._) These consisted of two Javanese dresses, two pieces of
lining chintz, two red _karwasses_, two parangs or chopping-knives, two
bush-knives, two plates, two combs, two handkerchiefs for the head, and
two catties (two pounds and a half) of copper wire. According to an
old custom, the articles they receive for their produce must always be
in pairs, except they consist of valuables, such as gold, elephants'
tusks, &c., which are valued and paid for accordingly.
The natives of the Tenimber Islands are extremely anxious to obtain
gold coin, especially ducats, and give their trepang and tortoise-shell
more readily in exchange for these than anything else. Both this and
silver coin they work up into clumsy ear-rings, bracelets, and other
ornaments, losing a considerable quantity of the metal in melting it
down. It is extremely difficult to obtain these ornaments from them.
I continued constantly employed among the islands, especially at
Vordate, until the 15th of June, when we sailed for Banda, carrying
with us favourable winds and weather. We passed, during our voyage,
near to Bird Island, an uninhabited spot, on which considerable
quantities of sulphur are collected, and carried to Bali and other
places, where it is employed in the manufacture of native gunpowder.
At Banda I put my interpreters on shore, and continued my voyage to
Amboyna, where I arrived on the 26th of June, much rejoiced at the
successful result of the expedition, of which I had soon a satisfactory
proof, in a Government Resolution of the following import:--
"_Extract from the Register of Transactions and Resolutions of the
Governor of the Moluccas._
"Friday, July 14, 1826.
"A communication from the Naval Captain, Commandant of Division, was
read (d. d. N. 104), containing the account of the voyage lately
performed by H.M. brig _Dourga_, under the command of Lieut. Kolff,
of the First Class, in the Banda Sea, and to the coast of New Guinea,
according to the instructions given him by a Resolution of the
24th March (1.1. No. 1). It appearing from the narrative, that the
above-named officer has fulfilled those instructions to as great an
extent as lay in his power, and has spared no pains to acquire the
information he was requested to collect, or to effect the duties with
the execution of which he was charged:--
"Approved of and understood--
"That M. Kolff, Lieutenant in the Navy of the First Class, receives
the thanks of the Government for the laudable manner in which he
has executed the commission entrusted to him; and that a report of
this, and of the above voyage itself, be sent to His Excellency the
Governor-General.
"An extract of this to be forwarded to Lieut. Kolff for his
information and direction.
"Copy from the above-named Register.
"Signed (W.G.) Paape,
"Secretary."
* * * * *
And now, kind and honoured Reader, the task which I promised to
undertake for you is fulfilled, and may the artless narrative of a
seaman, containing not unimportant contributions to a knowledge of
countries seldom visited or described, be acceptable to you. The
countries visited by me are, as Dutch possessions, of the highest
importance to every Netherlander, while, at the same time, the simple
description of the habits and disposition of their inhabitants
may afford matter for speculation. If, by the composition of this
narrative, I have rendered myself serviceable to the reading world, or
contributed to afford entertainment, then shall I be most amply repaid
for the time employed in its compilation.--Farewell!
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 51: A tope is a native-decked vessel, with three masts, and
sails resembling lugs. Some are of considerable size, but the present
one measured only twenty tons.]
[Footnote 52: It is from these that the shell, so much prized for combs
and fancy articles, is obtained.--_Translator._]
[Footnote 53: The thirteen pieces, which form the shell of the turtle,
are called collectively a "head of tortoise-shell."]
THE END.
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Old Voyages and Travels, Oriental and Miscellaneous
Literature, &c. &c.
J. MADDEN & Co., 8, LEADENHALL STREET.