CHAPTER XXII

STATISTICAL AND POLITICAL

The solid block of territory over which Russia now rules on the

tableland of Armenia is neither a new acquisition nor the fruit of a

single conquest. At the commencement of the last century she gained a

foothold upon it by the voluntary accession of the Georgian kingdom

and its constitution into a Russian province in 1802. This event,

the outcome of the folly of the Mussulman powers, who had driven

the Christians to despair, was followed by the rapid expansion of

the northern empire in these countries as the result of successful

war. Karabagh was taken from Persia in 1813, and the important khanate

of Erivan in 1828; from Turkey, the district of Akhaltsykh in 1829, and

the fortress and province of Kars in 1878. Appearing as a deliverer of

the Christian peoples and profiting by their aid, Russia has succeeded

in advancing her border beyond the Araxes and to the threshold of

Erzerum, and in establishing herself behind a well-rounded frontier

which comprises the venerated mountain of Armenia as well as the seat

of the supreme spiritual government to which the Armenians bow.

The Armenian provinces constitute a part of the great administrative

system of the Caucasus, which is presided over by a single

Governor-General. Formerly it was usual to appoint a Grand Duke to this

important post, who exercised, not without advantage to the country,

a very large measure of personal initiative. At the present day

it is occupied by a nobleman of high rank; but his administration

has become much more intimately connected with the bureaucratic

machine which is worked from St. Petersburg. He remains, however,

the principal civil and military authority in the Caucasus, which

consists of no less then twelve Governments, and is divided into

North Caucasus and Transcaucasia. North Caucasus is composed of the

Governments of Kuban, Terek and Stavropol; while the Governments of

Chernomorsk (a narrow strip of coast at the foot of the Caucasus range

between Novorossiysk on the Black Sea and a point a little north of

Pitsunda), Kutais, Tiflis, Zakataly, Daghestan, Baku, Elizabetpol,

Erivan and Kars are embraced under the title of Transcaucasia. Five of

the Governments, namely Kuban, Terek, Daghestan, Zakataly and Kars,

are still in the military stage of administration. The territories

of North Caucasus lie quite outside the scope of the present work;

and the Government of Daghestan ought more properly to be classed

with the Northern Governments, lying as it does to the north of the

main ridge of the Caucasus range. To the same category belong certain

districts of the Government of Baku; but for statistical purposes it

is advisable to retain them under Transcaucasia, in order to preserve

the unity of the Government. On the other hand, the little Government

of Chernomorsk may either be left out of account, or be included under

North Caucasus. Transcaucasia will thus consist of seven Governments,

of which the names and population, according to the two last censuses

of 1886 and of 1897, are exhibited in the following table. I must

explain that the figures of 1897 have not yet been split up into the

different racial elements of which the populations of the various

Governments are composed.

TABLE I.--Population of Russian Transcaucasia (including Russian

Armenia)

+-----------+-----------+-----------+-----------+---------+----------+---------+

|Government | Pop. 1886.| Armenian | Pop. 1897.|Square | Pop. per | Pop. per|

| | | Pop. 1886.| |Mileage. | sq. mile | sq. mile|

| | | | | | 1886. | 1897. |

+-----------+-----------+-----------+-----------+---------+----------+---------+

|Tiflis[430]| 875,429 | 211,743 | 958,775 |15,305.4 | 57.2 | 62.643 |

|Erivan | 670,405 | 375,700 | 804,757 |10,074.75| 66.54 | 79.878 |

|Kars[431] | 200,868 | 44,280 | 292,498 | 7,307.29| 27.489 | 40.028 |

|Kutais | 923,306 | 16,399 |1,075,861 |13,967.5 | 66.1 | 77.026 |

|Elizabetpol| 728,943 | 258,324 | 871,557 |16,720.5 | 43.6 | 52.125 |

|Baku | 712,703 | 55,459 | 789,659 |15,094.59| 47.216 | 52.314 |

|Zakatal | 74,449 | 521 | 82,168 | 1,542.04| 48.28 | 53.285 |

|-----------+-----------+-----------+-----------+---------+----------+---------+

|Total | 4,186,103 | 962,426 |4,875,275 |80,012.07| 52.318 | 60.931 |

+-----------+-----------+-----------+-----------+---------+----------+---------+

The admirable volume of statistics for Transcaucasia which we owe

to the labours of M. de Seidlitz, and which was published at Tiflis

by order of the civil government in 1893, supplies us with the most

detailed information concerning these Russian provinces--the numbers

of the different races and of the votaries of the various religious

sects, and how the inhabitants may be classed and labelled as nobles

or clergy, as tradesmen or as tillers of the soil. The figures are

derived from the census of 1886, and we are thus presented with a

fascinating statistical picture of the country towards the close

of the nineteenth century. I do not propose to spoil the effect of

his ingenious combinations by transferring them to my own pages in a

mangled form; or to forestall the pleasure which the perusal of his

serried columns is sure to bring to every well-regulated mind. But

their aid will be useful, and indeed indispensable, in fixing upon a

surer foundation those more general conceptions and conclusions which

are suggested by the experience of travel. The country immediately

on the north of the Armenian tableland--the plain of the Rion on the

north-west, and the wide trough of the Kur on the north--is inhabited

by various branches of the Georgian family and by settlers of Tartar

race; while the Caucasus itself, the northern boundary of the whole

geographical system, contains within its countless recesses an Homeric

catalogue of nations whose names it is difficult to pronounce and whose

languages are as mysterious as their names. Of a total population

in Transcaucasia of 4,186,000, the Armenians numbered upwards of

962,000 souls in 1886, or a proportion of nearly one quarter. But

the importance of the Armenian element must be measured not so much

by its numerical strength as by the solidarity of the Armenian people

when compared to the peoples among whom they live. The Armenians are

little divided by religious differences; the Roman Catholics are a

mere handful among the solid ranks of the Gregorians; and the Gregorian

Church is not only the symbol of national existence, but the stronghold

of national hopes. Two other races in Transcaucasia slightly exceed the

Armenians in number; the Tartars with 1,139,000, including Daghestan,

and the different divisions of the Georgian family who number over a

million souls. But the bitter religious antipathies of Sunni and Shiah

divide the Tartars, and the Georgians are in a period of transition

from their old feudal system to a new and more settled social order,

while the union of their Church with the Orthodox Church of Russia

has deprived them of the natural rallying point for that community of

sentiment which is based on a consciousness of race pride. Should the

Russians become possessed of the Armenian provinces of the Turkish

Empire, the most numerous as well as the most solid of the elements

of population in Transcaucasia will be furnished by the Armenian race.

The distribution of the Armenians within the present limits of Russian

Transcaucasia, but outside the area of the Armenian tableland, may

be presented in a concise manner as follows:--In the Government of

Elizabetpol, which includes Karabagh, they number 258,000; but only

in the Governmental divisions of Shusha and Zangezur, that is to

say in the tract of country between the Araxes on the east and the

south-eastern shore of Lake Sevan on the west, do they constitute the

numerically preponderating race; while in the other divisions and in

the whole Government they are largely outnumbered by the Tartars. The

Government of Tiflis contains nearly 212,000 Armenians, of whom I shall

include 99,000 in my estimate for the tableland itself; the remainder

are distributed over the other divisions of the Government, and in the

town of Tiflis, where they attain the imposing number of 55,000 among a

total population for the nineties of 145,000 souls. In the Government

of Baku, out of a total Armenian population of 55,000 there are over

24,000 in the town of Baku itself, where they are engaged in commerce

and in the oil works; they are also numerous in the town and district

of Shemakha, which lies to the west of Baku. In the Government of

Kutais they only number 16,000, and most of these reside in the towns.

The Armenians, being a commercial and industrial as well as an

agricultural people, have spread themselves outside the natural limits

of their country, attracted to the growing centres of industry upon

its confines. They contribute a valuable and increasing element to the

urban populations. But it is only when we have crossed the mountains

which separate their highlands from the rest of Transcaucasia that

we become conscious of treading upon Armenian soil. Throughout its

extension from Akhalkalaki and Alexandropol on the north-east to Egin

and Kharput on the south-west, that elevated stage of the Asiatic

tablelands which we may still call Armenia bears the imprint of the

individuality of the Armenian people to a greater degree than of any

other race. In the immense expanse of these Armenian landscapes--where

blue lakes lie lapped in treeless plains, swelling with ochreous

surface from hummock to hill, from hill to some long descending

mountain outline that sweeps from the summit of a snow-crowned

cone--the note which is uttered by man is lost. Yet there is scarcely

a remote valley or lonely island which does not attract a band of

pilgrims to worship in the beautiful monasteries which date from the

times of the kings of Armenia and keep alive the story of the past. The

fertile ground is for the most part tilled by an Armenian peasantry,

whose burrows, resembling large ant-hills, are scarcely perceptible

in the scene. All the machinery of whatever civilisation the land may

possess is furnished by Armenians. The language which you most often

hear is the somewhat harsh Armenian tongue; the legends and historical

memories which attach to the great works of Nature have for the most

part an Armenian origin. Over the area of the Armenian tableland,

as it is delimited in the present work, these people are found in

nearly double the numbers of any other race. In the preceding chapter

I have established the natural frontiers of the country within Russian

territory; and in the companion chapter of the second volume I shall

hope to perform the same task in respect of the Turkish area. Our

present concern is with the population of the Russian provinces of

the tableland, which I have endeavoured to exhibit according to its

various racial elements in the following tabular statement.

The little map, with which I accompany this table, will make plain

to my reader the statistical area with which we are dealing. He will

observe that it agrees in a general manner with the area enclosed

by the natural frontier. It would not be possible to adapt exactly

the statistical information at our disposal, based as it is upon

Governmental units, to the geographical boundaries represented by

the natural frontier; but those boundaries are so strongly marked

that they correspond pretty closely with those of the administrative

divisions. Only in two cases does the statistical area, as shown in

the map within Russian territory, diverge in a marked degree from the

geographical; and in both these cases it would have been easy to have

made them approximately coincide. The one occurs about south of Tiflis,

where I have preferred to include the ouezde of Borchali within the

statistical area. It comprises a transitional region between the

natural frontier and the valley of the Kur, presenting many of the

characteristics of the tableland, and inhabited in considerable numbers

by Armenians. The other is furnished by the administrative division of

Olti, belonging to the Government of Kars. My reason for retaining it

is principally because it corresponds on the east to the eastern limits

of the Turkish vilayet of Erzerum on the west. Both these Governments,

of Kars and of Erzerum, overlap into the Chorokh region; and in the

case of Erzerum I have not been able to determine the exact boundaries

of the overlapping administrative units. With these exceptions the

natural area of the Armenian provinces in Russia corresponds fairly

closely with the area comprised by the Governments of Erivan and Kars

together with the ouezdes of Akhaltsykh, Akhalkalaki and Borchali,

belonging to the Government of Tiflis. Karabagh I have excluded both

from the geographical and from the statistical area, representing as

it does an Armenia in miniature on the side of the Caspian Sea.

TABLE II.--Population of the Armenian Tableland in Russia

(Census of 1886 and figures of 1891 for Kars)

+-------------+------------------+-----------+----------+----------------+

| | Govt. of Tiflis; | | | |

| Nationality.| ouezdes of | Govt. of | Govt. of | Totals. |

| | Akhalkalaki, | Erivan. | Kars. | |

| | Akhaltsykh and | | | |

| | Borchali. | | | |

+-------------+------------------+-----------+----------+----------------+

| | | | | |

| Armenians | 99,258 | 375,700 | 44,280 | 519,238 |

| Tartars | 55,253 | 251,057 | ... | 306,310 |

| Kurds | 2,127 | 36,478 | 30,259 | 68,864 |

| Greeks | 19,170 | 1,026 | 27,567 | 47,763 |

| Turks | 31 | ... | 46,954 | 46,985 |

| Georgians | 31,069 | 33 | ... | 31,102 |

| Russians | 12,879 | 4,152 | 11,813 | 28,844 |

| Karapapakhs | ... | ... | 27,247 | 27,247 |

| Turkomans | ... | ... | 10,174 | 10,174 |

| Others | 4,650 | 1,959 | 2,574 | 9,183[432] |

+ +------------------+-----------+----------+----------------+

| Total | 224,437 | 670,405 | 200,868 | 1,095,710[433] |

| | | | | |

+-------------+------------------+-----------+----------+----------------+

| Sq. Miles. | 4,585.85 | 10,074.75 | 7,307.29 | 21,967.89[434] |

| | | | | |

+-------------+------------------+-----------+----------+----------------+

| Pop. per | 49.877 |

| Sq. Mile. | |

+-------------------------------------------------------+----------------+

Further analysis of the figures which have just been presented would

show that the stronghold of the Armenians, the locality in which

they are most numerous, is the rich country through which the Arpa

Chai flows on its way to join the middle course of the Araxes. There

is situated the fortress and modern town of Alexandropol, which is

inhabited almost exclusively by Armenians; and there are placed,

a little further south, the remains of the ancient city of Ani, of

which the deserted site still testifies to the state and splendour

of their kings. The upland plains about Akhalkalaki on the north are

dotted with Armenian villages; while the valley of the Araxes on the

south, from Kagyzman to Erivan, and especially in the district of

Edgmiatsin, contains a considerable Armenian population. The town

and district of Novo-Bayazet, on the western shore of Lake Sevan,

is for the greater part Armenian. On the other hand, the eastern

portion of the Araxes valley, commencing from the town of Ordubad,

is held in large numbers by the Tartars, who run the Armenians

close in the extensive and important area which is covered by the

Government of Erivan. It must be remembered, in reference to the

Armenian population of the Russian provinces, that their numbers have

been considerably augmented by emigration from Turkey and Persia. It

is computed that not less than 10,000 families from the district of

Erzerum followed the Russian army out of Turkey in 1829; and numbers

of their countrymen--it is said not less than 40,000--had already

accompanied the same force from the frontier districts of Persia when

it retired from Tabriz at the Peace of Turkomanchai.

Next to the Armenians, the most numerous element in the population are

the Tartars, who extend from the Persian frontier up the valley of

the Araxes, and cover with their settlements the eastern districts

of the plateau region and the whole of Karabagh. The Tartars of

Transcaucasia represent a section of those warriors of Turkish race

who, from the time of the appearance of the Seljuks down to the end

of the eighteenth century, were driven to this country by political

conditions from the northern provinces of Persia--that is, from

Azerbaijan, and from the eastern shores of the Caspian Sea. Their

language is still the lingua franca of the districts between Caucasus

and the Armenian plateau. Within the area with which we are now dealing

they belong almost entirely to the Shiah sect, and, besides sharing

the religion of Persia, contain an admixture of Persian blood. It is

not so long ago that their seats in Armenia formed a Persian khanate,

and were administered by Persian sirdars; and the wealthy families

who flourished during that period are still the owners of extensive

gardens, and live on the proceeds of their land. In the humbler walks

of life they are distinguished by their skill in all those methods

of working mud which are practised in the East; they are plasterers,

wall-makers, skilled men in the construction of works of irrigation;

while most of the little tradesmen, the hucksters and fruit-sellers

are Tartars, and many of the gardeners and drivers of carts. In the

country they have passed from the nomadic stage, and are prosperous

settlers upon the land. In the town of Erivan, where their numbers

equal those of the Armenians, many of the largest gardens are owned

by Tartar families, and many of the most prosperous houses of business

are in Tartar hands. The degree of religious tolerance which they have

achieved in that town was a matter of extreme astonishment to me, when

I remembered how often I had in vain resented the bigotry of the Shiahs

while travelling within the dominions of the Shah. The Persians are

unable to enforce reciprocity in their country, and to repay us for

the pleasure and the profit which they may derive in inspecting the

great religious buildings of Europe by suppressing and impounding the

vicious fanatics who drive us from the doors of their mosques. It is a

pleasure to offer a well-deserved tribute to that sense of respect for

themselves and for their religion of which the Shiahs of Erivan give

so striking a proof by admitting the stranger, whatever his creed,

into the innermost courts of their spacious and beautiful mosque;

and it is not imprudent to hope and to expect that the narrow path

which they are still treading may widen as the years increase. On

the other hand, it is not without disappointment that we may note the

small progress they have hitherto made in availing themselves of the

opportunities of education which the Russian Government have placed

within their reach. I have drawn attention to this circumstance in

my notice of the schools of Erivan; and it is safe to prophesy that,

unless a radical change be soon effected, the Tartars will be edged

out by the Armenians and will diminish in numbers year by year.

The remaining peoples native to the country upon whom it is necessary

to bestow a passing glance are the Kurds, the Greeks, the Turks, the

Georgians and the Karapapakhs. The Kurds within Russian territory have

not yet abandoned their nomadic habits; they are found as far north

as the country about Batum, but their principal pasture-grounds

are on the Turkish frontier and in Karabagh. The Kurds in the

neighbourhood of Ararat pursue two main directions during their

summer wanderings; one body proceeds towards the north, through the

districts of Edgmiatsin and Alexandropol, and stations itself upon

the highlands about Akhaltsykh and Akhalkalaki; the other takes an

easterly course and enters the Government of Elizabetpol. The total

number of Kurds in Transcaucasia is given as 100,000, of whom the

larger part inhabit within the area with which we are concerned;

the rest are found in greatest number in Karabagh. The Greeks have

several villages, principally in the Government of Kars; those which

I saw were prosperous, and the gay dresses and trinkets of the women

betokened a somewhat higher stage of comfort than that which is usual

in the country as a whole. These Greeks speak Turkish and are learning

Russian; their versatile genius enables them to change nationality as

we take a change of air. They are excellent miners and road engineers;

the fine chaussée which has recently been completed up the valley

of the Toporovan river to Akhalkalaki was constructed by the skilled

labour of Greek workmen. The small number of Georgians who are included

in our area are found, as would be expected, in the valley of the

Kur. In many places the race has received such a large admixture of

Turkish blood that the inhabitants, although classed as Georgians,

would call themselves Turks, and are in religion Mussulman. In such

villages I found much discontent with the existing order, and the

evident outward signs of breaking up and decay. The Turks are found

almost exclusively in the Government of Kars, which is also the seat

of a hybrid tribe called Karapapakhs, or "Black Caps," from the black

lambskin caps which they wear. The origin of the German and of the

Russian settlers has already been described in the course of this

work (see Ch. VII.); the latter belong almost exclusively to the

Dukhobortsy and Molokan sects, expelled by the Russian Church-State

from the home provinces of the Russian Empire. The Dukhobortsy must

have diminished in numbers to an appreciable extent since the date

of these statistics, owing to the recent emigration of large numbers

into the bosom of the British Empire (p. 116).

When one reflects upon the social condition of the country, no

circumstance is perhaps more striking than the complete separation

of one race from another. Although living side by side, there

is an entire absence of natural fusion of the different elements

upon a common plane. Cases exist both in the Russian and in the

Turkish provinces of Armenia where, from a sense of advantage or

by compulsion, the people of a particular district have adopted

the Mussulman religion during periods of Mussulman persecution, and

have become, by intermarriage and closer intercourse, absorbed into

the dominant race. I may instance in Russian Armenia the Georgian

inhabitants of the valley of the Upper Kur, and across the Turkish

frontier the Armenians of the Tortum district and the Greeks of many

of the valleys of the peripheral region. But such examples have only

aggravated the differences to which separation is due. They have

converted the existing prejudices into animosities, and have retarded

rather than advanced any tendency towards fusion. When Russia appeared

on the scene, it might have been expected that at least in the case

of Christians of various professions and nationalities a disposition

to draw together might have made itself felt. As a matter of fact the

reverse has been the case. To the old religious breaches has been added

a new barrier--the hungry Russian Orthodox Church. Certainly in the

case of a marriage between a Russian sectary and an Armenian--and I

believe also in that of the other professions, should, for instance,

an Armenian of the Gregorian persuasion wed a Protestant of the same

nation--the children of such a mixed union are required by Russian law

to be brought up in the Russian Orthodox faith. It makes no difference

that neither of the parents professes that faith. The result has,

therefore, been that the old heterogeneous collection have been

increased by two more species of the Christian happy family--the

Molokans and Dukhobortsy. And upon both is riveted isolation from

their neighbours--or in the alternative the necessity of educating

their children in a creed and religious system which they abhor.

In such circumstances very little has been effected by the Russian

settlers towards raising the standards already prevailing in their

adopted country. Inasmuch as these sectaries belong to the flower of

the peasantry in Russia, one should, perhaps, regret the presence of

any artificial barriers. It is true that they do not stand as high in

the scale of peoples as their Armenian neighbours with their ancient

but deeply corroded culture and their natural aptitudes--these,

happily, unimpaired. But in moral force the Russians are easily

superior; and their methods of agriculture, if they were generally

followed in the country, would produce an economical revolution. Up

to the present time their example has been thrown away. Their neat

stone houses, spacious carts, ploughs and field implements have

not inspired the Armenians to forsake their ancestral habits--to

improve the means of cultivation, and to emerge from their unhealthy

burrows into the light and comfort of glass windows and solid walls

of stone. This barrenness of result is, no doubt, in part due to the

manner in which the Russian immigration took place. Expelled from their

native country, the peasants came in whole villages, with their women

and their children and their household goods. Their new settlements

were grouped together and rendered self-sufficient; and neither the

necessities nor the inducements of social intercourse drew them away

from their own circles. To the traveller as well as to the native they

are a piece of Russia laid down in Armenia; the curious stare and

pass on. As an outpost of the northern empire they can be of little

value owing to the religious opinions which they profess. It is well

known in the country that the Government are reserving vast tracts

of land in the hope that some day Russian colonists, these, it is

expected, of the Orthodox faith, may be attracted to these salubrious

uplands. The climate would suit them well. Should the Germans realise

their scheme of colonising Asia Minor, an ethnical redistribution

would be accomplished on a large scale. But the population of the

country is at present so scanty and its resources so vast, that the

Armenians have little to fear from such a development.

Let us now proceed to the political side of our subject, and endeavour

to measure the system of government under which these various peoples

live. It will be interesting to keep in view both their dispositions

towards it and the results, material and moral, which it may be

considered to have brought about.

The administration by Russia of the north-eastern half of Armenia has

been occupied with races whose more recent political history consists

in their passage from one domination to another; and the presence

of discontent in certain quarters may be regarded as the inevitable

outcome of the change. The Mussulman adherents of the old Turkish

dominion share with their neighbours of Turkish origin the humiliation

of a fallen state; and their Turkish sympathies and connections,

while they excite the suspicions of the Russian Government, dispose

them to yield to the lightest pressure, and to cross the border into

Turkish soil. [435] The Armenians, who have been a mainstay to Russia

both in her Persian and in her Turkish wars, whose lands were swept

by the tide of battle, and who can recall the memory of conflicts

which extended even to the walls of their sanctuary, the cloister

of Edgmiatsin, are inclined to temper their sentiments of gratitude

with the consciousness of the services which they rendered--services

which many among them may be disposed to consider have only resulted

in the imposition of a fresh and more burdensome yoke. North of the

tableland the Georgian races, whose kingdom, harassed by Mohammedan

peoples, was driven to seek assistance outside, have not yet forgotten

the disappointment of the hope which many among them had cherished,

that Russian intervention might assume the form of a protectorate

rather than of a complete absorption of the Georgian element into

the Russian State. But such regrets and disillusionments are but

the familiar sequel to the constitution of empire upon a new soil;

and human nature under such circumstances is more prone to count the

loss than to recognise the gain. Over twenty years have now elapsed

since Russia completed her subjugation of the Caucasus, whose peoples,

untamed for so long a period, menaced the base of her advance; order

and peace have been given to the country, and life and property are

safe. Georgian children are no longer sold into slavery, and a middle

class is forming amongst that people, whose traditional relation to

one another was that of noble and serf. An experienced traveller,

who visited the Armenian provinces in 1868, and passed through the

more fertile regions of the country between Kars and Kagyzman, has

left on record a striking picture of the misery of those Mussulman

times. He was crossing the district of Shuragel, the ancient Shirak

of the Armenians; and he speaks of deserted towns and villages, of

Armenian peasants who clung to their ruined homes with a pertinacity

of affection which neither poverty nor oppression could subdue, of

the dispossession of the Christians by the Turkish Beys, and of the

exactions and forays of the Kurds, which had curtailed agriculture

and stifled industry, and had reduced both to the extreme limit on

which human life is able to subsist. [436] If, at the present time,

the Armenian peasant gathers for himself the crops which he has sown,

and the restless Kurd consults his safety by a sober respect for the

law, it is to Russia that the people owe this deliverance from the

license and anarchy of former years.

Had the Russian Government confined its energies to the amiable and

disinterested task of establishing and maintaining public order as

the guardian of a distracted country and the knight-errant who clears

the land of thieves, it would have received the ungrudging gratitude

of the Armenians, until in the maturity of time they had learnt to

walk unaided and to cope alone with those lawless elements which

might still resist the yoke of law. When that happy state had been

accomplished it might only be natural to suppose that the progressive

tendencies of the Armenian would lead him to take counsel with his

neighbours and friends, to thank his protectors for past benefits,

and to submit that the continuance of foreign tutelage was no longer

necessary or desirable in the interests of a country to whose welfare

they had contributed so much. To the Russians such a possible,

but I think improbable, outcome of all their efforts was scarcely

calculated to present so rosy an appearance as their ingenuous

wards might have expected or hoped, and, if the advantages offered

by the Russian Empire were not sufficiently apparent by themselves,

it was necessary to reform and to educate a perversity which sooner

or later would yield. The Russians are not a commercial people, and

would be content to see the Armenians conduct the commerce of their

native country and develop its vast resources, could they but collect

the means; but only on one condition were they prepared to encourage

such activity: that their subjects should become Russians, and that

the province should be joined to the Russian Empire not only by the

slender thread of annexation, but by the abiding tie of a common

patriotism founded on a community of sentiment with themselves. But

just at this point the real difficulties of empire arise. Races who

stand on a low scale in Nature have become absorbed into the Russian

system by the exertion of little further energy than was required to

ingrain in them that wholesome respect for their northern conqueror

which the first sharp conflict had inspired; and the broad, expansive

Russian character has been able to assimilate them to itself. It is

different when, whatever the degree of degradation to which they may

have been reduced by Mussulman oppression, a people is conscious of

elements of vitality impelling them to higher ideals and standards

than those which guide the powerful protectors under whom they have

commenced to breathe. An empire which is confronted with such a

situation has few alternatives among which to choose. If it cannot

attract the subject people towards it--if it cannot accomplish that

task of self-change which is more difficult than any problem which

the exercise of empire may present--it will sooner or later be driven

to adopt the expedients of coercion and repression, and to lower the

plane of civilised life by arresting the race for progress in which

it was itself unfitted to compete.

Such a political situation can best be gauged and appreciated if we

approach it from several different points of view--the nature of the

Russian system, the attitude of Armenians in particular towards it,

the true significance of such struggles in the larger issues of the

outside world.... The kindness and hospitality of the Russian people,

the amiable disposition which, in spite of official exigencies,

makes them wish the traveller well, the real desire which a large and

increasing number among them cherish for social progress at home--are

features in the Russian character which the shortest acquaintance

will recognise with respect, and which make for the true advance of

Russia as a civilised nation among her peers. But the moment that the

elements of progress in Russia have asserted their right to rule,

the Russian system, as we know it, will die and disappear, and the

laws which govern its existence will be subject to new conditions,

which may make for closer national concentration rather than for

expansion abroad. Such reflections, although not new, are pertinent

in this place. The element of finality, always relative, may justly

appear in the eyes of many Armenians to be wanting to the political

system and to the Government under which they live; and the abhorrence

which that system inspires tempts them to convert the thought into a

wish. The ultimate outcome of any revolution in the affairs of Russia

is too uncertain, and the present evils of her Government are too

substantial and apparent to induce them willingly to cast in their

lot with the Russian people, and to abandon their hope of fulfilling

their destiny in their own manner and, if possible, by themselves.

A people whose commercial activity has brought them into contact with

the most progressive races of Europe, and whose natural instinct

renders them eager to assimilate Western thought, can scarcely be

blamed if they chafe under a system which assumes to establish the

opinions they shall hold and to select the books which they shall read,

and which subjects every action of their daily life to an inquisitorial

control. Such methods are only the manifestations of a settled and

uniform plan. The Armenian must sink his individuality and resign his

initiative into Russian hands. He must imbue himself with the ideas

which his rulers have prepared for him, and which may be opposed to

the tendencies and the capacities with which he has been endowed. In

such a prospect he recognises nothing to admire and much to fear. He

sees the more capable races either driven from the Russian Empire

or made the object of a constant jealousy and antipathy rather than

of increasing respect. He feels the grip of an organisation which is

founded on European methods, and commands all the resources which those

methods provide; but he distrusts the hands which wield these weapons,

and he is indifferent to the objects to which they are turned. Even

the material results of such a system leave him little to hope beyond

what he has attained. The resources of the country still lie dormant,

and the Government seems to lack the means or else the will to turn

them to account. He sees the rich forests of the peripheral region,

which might yield a considerable revenue in return for an outlay which

would be comparatively small, left unexploited and neglected, while

shiploads of wood are entering the ports to supply the requirements

of the oil industry. That industry itself he sees promoted by foreign

capital in Russian guise, while the jealousy of all foreign capital

has closed the door to its beneficent action in the provinces of

his home. Only a single military railway traverses the tableland,

and there is scarcely a road upon it except such as are rendered

necessary by the exigencies of the military arm. A few examples of the

economical condition of these provinces may emphasise and explain such

statements of a general kind. The two principal towns are Alexandropol

and Erivan; yet the road which joins them makes the colossal circuit

by the northern shore of Lake Sevan, where it meets the main avenue

of traffic between Tiflis and Erivan. From a point further west on

this roundabout line of communication a road has been cut with the

laudable object of shortening the distance; but the same contempt

for the smaller and more irksome duties of life to which we become

accustomed in purely Eastern countries has allowed it to fall into ruin

by neglect, and we are met by the sight, so familiar to the traveller

in the East, of yawning culverts and broken bridges and parallel tracks

which have diverged and avoided the perilous surface of the metalled

way. In Erivan itself, the chief town of a district where capital might

be turned to the greatest advantage, it is impossible or difficult to

find a foreign newspaper, while the industrial skill of the advanced

races of Europe is not represented by a single foreign enterprise, or,

so far as I know, by a single foreign man of business or industrial

employee. Persons who know the country well have told me that from

the point of view of irrigation, so important a requirement in a land

which suffers from want of rain, it has gone back since the times of

the Persians, who are experts in such arts. As a consequence of this

economical stagnation, the spectacle is often presented in a country

which enjoys security and repose of miserable villages, pinched by the

scantiest resources and in appearance not more prosperous than those on

Turkish soil. I cannot help thinking that many of these evils are due

to excessive centralisation in the Russian capital. When the Governor

of the Transcaucasian provinces was a Grand Duke residing at Tiflis,

he was able to gratify his personal interest in their welfare by the

exercise of a large measure of independent initiative and control; at

the present day the smallest projects are referred to St. Petersburg,

and are made subservient to the general economic policy which governs

the Empire as a whole. But such an explanation serves only to display

and emphasise the character of the Russian system itself: how small

are the prospects which it offers in return for the leaden yoke which

it brings.

Little by little, as all danger on the side of the Mussulman states

has gradually disappeared, the Russian Government have considered

it opportune to apply more drastic methods, and to impose upon the

newest of their adopted children a fuller measure of the disciplinary

régime. With what instruments they have worked, and how first the

Church and next the schools have been the objects of their relentless

embrace, has been already told in the foregoing chapters, notably

those on Erivan and Edgmiatsin. On their side the Armenians have

shown no disposition to adopt Russian ways of thought. The greater

has grown the pressure, the more they have writhed and twisted; at the

present moment they are lying still with broken wings. The situation

is cruel in the extreme. From the Turkish provinces they are beaten

up towards the Russian frontier by bands of long-beaked, predatory

Kurds. Should they reach their asylum, they are caught in the meshes

of a quite impervious network; they are sorted and sifted about by

a swarm of active little officials--the police of the districts, the

police of the towns, the political police. Camps are instituted where

the great majority will be detained at pleasure, to be returned on

the first opportunity to their rifled homes. The repetition of this

process is causing the decimation of the Armenian people in a surer

and much more efficacious manner than any massacres. It is true that

the amelioration if not the removal of such conditions lies to some

extent in their own hands. "Accept our system, follow the Georgians,

and seek spiritual and political salvation within the bosom of the

Russian Church-State." One cannot doubt that in that event the whole

weight of the great Russian Empire would be thrown into the scale

for the Armenians. What a tempting prospect for a people so sorely

tried! Will they not before very long subscribe this obvious solution,

for which there is so much to be said? I have put the question to all

the Armenians with whom I have enjoyed opportunities of intercourse,

and I have put it to those one or two European Consuls who have been in

Armenia and know the Armenians well. The answer has invariably been in

a negative sense. Many Armenians go so far as to openly profess their

preference for the Turkish Government. They state the matter neatly

in the form of an antithesis. It is a choice between two Oppressions,

one physical and spasmodic, the other moral and systematic. It is not

the first time in history that they have been offered the alternative

of slavery in body or slavery in mind. A remnant may be absorbed;

but the majority will follow their destiny, will wander out, and,

perhaps, disappear.

Such is the conclusion, so full of pathos, with such a vein of

unconscious satire, throwing curious side lights upon the gilded

figures of Christianity and Empire marching down purple steps with

arms entwined.... My reader who may know the Armenians from his

sad experience of an Armenian dragoman picked up in the Levant,

will not, perhaps, be disposed to view the ruin of that people with

feelings of keen regret. For myself, coming to the subject free

from any prepossessions, but with the lessons of extensive travel

in the countries west of India fresh imprinted on my mind, I must

freely confess to exactly contrary sentiments. We are living in a

time of startling changes in Asia; we are witnesses of one of those

great waves from Europe upon Asia of which the tide-marks have all

but vanished from the sands of the Present after many centuries of

repose and stagnation. Some diversion of the current, it is true, has

taken place towards Africa; but the reservoirs of Europe are being

filled in a much greater measure than they are depleted by issues

in that direction. A new and, to all appearances, a permanent factor

of immense potentiality in its reflex influence upon the economy and

diplomacy of Europe has arisen in the shape of the United States of

America. American competition is already obliging the industrial

states of Europe to compose those ancient quarrels which have so

often exhausted their great resources, and which have been so long

exploited with success by Oriental rulers. Day by day new inventions

are annihilating the old-world obstacles of distance and of time. Asia

is brought to our doors; and, when we lift the veil in which she has

so long slumbered, there is nothing beneath but her fair frame and

the flimsiest web of human littleness, yielding to the first and most

clumsy attempt to brush it aside.

Nepioi!--We are surely simpletons if through motives of adventure

and cupidity we fondly cherish the vision of this long-lost continent

parcelled out like virgin ground among ourselves. The Asiatic, with

all his debility, is not the African; he is our father, from whose

lips we received our first lessons, and his old age, become almost

child-like, contains the germs of rejuvenescence, like the gods of

ancient Greece. Tenderly and with affection should we approach these

old races whom Providence has conducted to our threshold. They will

repay us for our forbearance and solicitude. They worship strength;

but the display of power in a brutal and ruthless spirit betrays in

their eyes, who have seen the passage of so many despotisms, underlying

elements of present weakness and certain failure. In some condition,

one cannot help feeling, they are likely to survive us, the richer

or the poorer for the example and imprint which we may have bestowed.

In the Armenians we have a people who are peculiarly adapted to be the

intermediaries of the new dispensation. They profess our religion,

are familiar with some of our best ideals, and assimilate each new

product of European culture with an avidity and thoroughness which no

other race between India and the Mediterranean has given any evidence

of being able to rival. These capacities they have made manifest under

the greatest of disadvantages--as a subject race ministering to the

needs of Mussulman masters. They know well that with every advance

of true civilisation they are sure to rise, as they will certainly

fall at each relapse.

For nearly a thousand years they have been held in subjection; and

it would be folly to expect that they should not have suffered in

character by the menial pursuits which they have been constrained

to follow. They have been rayas, exploited by races most often their

inferiors in intellect; and I need not enlarge upon the results which

have followed from such a condition. One should rather wonder that

their defects are not more pronounced.

On the other hand, they are possessed of virtues with which they are

seldom credited. The fact that in Turkey they are rigorously precluded

from bearing arms has disposed superficial observers to regard them

as cowards. A different judgment might be meted out were they placed

on an equality in this respect with their enemies the Kurds. At all

events, when given the chance, they have not been slow to display

martial qualities both in the domain of the highest strategy and in

that of personal prowess. The victorious commander-in-chief for Russia

in her Asiatic campaign of 1877 was an Armenian from the district of

Lori--Loris Melikoff. In the same campaign the most brilliant general

of division in the Russian army was an Armenian--Tergukasoff. [437]

The gallant young staff-officer, Tarnaieff, who planned and led the

hair-brained attack on the Azizi fort in front of Erzerum, was an

Armenian, and paid for his daring with his life. At the present day

the frontier police, engaged in controlling the Kurds of the border,

are recruited from among Armenians. These examples may be sufficient

to nail to the counter an inveterate lie, from which the Armenians

have suffered, at least in British estimation, more, perhaps, than

from any other supposed defect.

If I were asked what characteristics distinguish the Armenians from

other Orientals, I should be disposed to lay most stress on a quality

known in popular speech as grit. It is this quality to which they owe

their preservation as a people, and they are not surpassed in this

respect by any European nation. Their intellectual capacities are

supported by a solid foundation of character, and, unlike the Greeks,

but like the Germans, their nature is averse to superficial methods;

they become absorbed in their tasks and plumb them deep. There is

no race in the Nearer East more quick of learning than the Persians;

yet should you be visited by a Persian gentleman accompanied by his

Armenian man of business, take a book down from your shelves, better

one with illustrations, and, the conversation turning upon some subject

treated by its author, hand it to them after a passing reference. The

Persian will look at the pictures, which he may praise. The Armenian

will devour the book, and at each pause in the conversation you

will see him poring over it with knitted brows. These tendencies

are naturally accompanied by forethought and balance; and they have

given the Armenian his pre-eminence in commercial affairs. He is

not less clever than the Greek; but he sees further, and, although

ingrained with the petty vices of all Oriental traders, the Armenian

merchant is quick to appreciate the advantages of fair dealing

when they are suggested by the conditions under which his vocation

is pursued. A friend with a large experience of the Balkans, with

their heterogeneous urban populations, has told me, as an interesting

fact, that in the statistics of bankruptcy for those countries the

proportion of Armenians implicated is comparatively low. Inasmuch as

such bankruptcies are usually more or less of a fraudulent nature,

the fact indicates not, perhaps, so much the greater integrity of

Armenians, as their power to resist an immediate temptation and their

promptitude in recognising the monetary value of commercial stability.

But in order to estimate this people at anything like their true

worth, one should study them not in the Levant, with its widespread

corruption, but in the Russian provinces of Armenia. Here they have

most successfully utilised the interval between the period when the

sword of Russia was the sword of the deliverer and that present-day

period when the principles which inspire her rulers are those of

Pan-orthodoxy and Panslavism. I was so much surprised by the results

achieved, and by the contrast which was offered between the sterling

progress of this newly-emancipated population and the stagnation and

progressive relapse of their neighbours of different nationality,

spread over the whole wide area of the Nearer Asia, that, without

any certain previous purpose, I resolved to pursue the study further

and to protract the journey into Turkish territory. For what was

it that I saw? In every trade and in every profession, in business

and in the Government services the Armenian was without a rival

and in full possession of the field. He equips the postal service

by which you travel, and if you are so fortunate as to find an inn

the landlord will be an Armenian. Most of the villages in which you

sojourn are inhabited by a brawny Armenian peasantry. In the towns,

if the local governor attaches to your service the head of the local

police, it will be a stalwart Armenian in Russian uniform who will

find you either a lodging or a shady garden in which to erect your

tents. If you remark on the way some well-built edifice which aspires

to architectural design, it will be the work of an Armenian builder

from Alexandropol. In that city itself, where the Armenians are most

numerous, the love of building, which was so marked a characteristic

of their forefathers, has blossomed again among kinder circumstances;

a spacious cathedral and several large churches stand among new

stone houses fronted with ambitious façades. In Erivan each richer

merchant has lodged himself in an agreeable villa, of which the

Italian architecture rises from the shade of poplars and willows and

fruit trees laden with fruit. The excellent wine which is found in

Erivan is made according to the newest methods by an Armenian who

has studied for two years in Germany the most modern appliances of

the industry in Europe. The monetary transactions of the country are

in the hands of Armenian bankers. The skilled workmen--jewellers,

watchmakers, carpenters--are Armenians. Even the ill-miened officer

of mounted frontier police, whose long association with the wilder

elements--Kurds and robbers of small and large degree--has lent him

the appearance of a chief of brigands, will bear, not much to its

honour, an Armenian name. The large majority of the people do not

speak Russian, or speak it very imperfectly. Indeed, were it not

for the fact that the governors and chief police officials of large

districts are Russians, and that Cossacks and Russian regular soldiers

may here and there be seen, the traveller would not suspect that he

was in a Russian province, and would go the way he listed with the

most serene composure until he was rudely awakened by some abrupt

collision with the Russian system and brought to his proper mind. As

it is, the Armenian has edged out the Russian, and, if Peace were

allowed her conquests unhindered, he would ultimately rule in the land.

Such a situation is suggestive; nor can we feel surprise if the

Armenian has exercised his Oriental imagination upon it in a manner

less prudent than may be calculated to appeal to the slower veined

races of the West. The idea of a modern Armenian kingdom has set the

spark to that national enthusiasm which the perusal of his historical

records has fed. The example of Eastern Europe has seemed to justify

his speculations. When I come to deal with the Turkish provinces,

I shall endeavour to show the falseness of such premisses; but I do

not believe that any such details have influenced his somewhat more

general conceptions, and they are not pertinent here. The vision of an

independent Armenian state, could it be realised in a remote future,

will not appeal to all minds alike. Many will see a real danger to

human progress in the creation of these small states. The national

sentiment they would place among those realised ideals upon which, as

our civilisation widens, it is necessary to build anew. The magnitude

of the conflict, should any of the greater nations enter the arena of

war, acts as a wholesome preventive to ambitions which the small state

is prone to indulge on the least pretence. The gratification of such

ambitions causes bad administration and ends in bankruptcy, while few

of the advantages which are offered by a great empire can the people of

a little country enjoy. Such considerations have great weight, and it

would probably be well if, whenever it were practicable, our political

actions were founded upon them; yet they scarcely indicate a solution

in the present case. The Armenian, who is a convert to such views,

might justly ask in what quarter he should look. The Turkish Empire

will not even protect him, and massacres its Armenian subjects; while,

should he turn his eyes to Russia, he sees no prospects of material

advantage which would enable him to rise above the economic stage to

which he has already attained, and surrender to Russian ideals could

only be effected in his opinion at the price of moral and intellectual

annihilation. Confronted with such an outlook, he seeks refuge within

himself; and, should he consult his more sober perceptions, he will

labour in silence and without ostentation to supply the requirements

which his race still needs; to raise the peasant from his present

degradation, to purify the Church, to promote the interest of his

richer neighbours in work for the common good. These are the more

legitimate ambitions which, however tedious, are certain of success,

and which will establish, whatever be the revolution of politics,

his right to influence the history of his country as one of the only

stable native elements of progress in the Nearer East.

If, before concluding these reflections, we turn to the broader issues

upon which such questions bear, and, having examined the comparative

failure of Russia in Armenia, consider its significance to the larger

world, we may find that the very strength of the Russian system as

a powerful factor in international life derives from the self-same

character which has denied her victory here. Had Russia through

a natural process of attraction been able to draw towards her the

higher races who stood on her path, she would have been a greater

nation, but perhaps a less formidable force. Round her she groups

the less cultivated peoples--the nomads of Asia, the wanderers of

the steppe--and arms them with the might of a European organisation

which the intellect of Europe, impressed into her service, perfects

as a weapon for her use. The dangers which such results threaten

can only imperil the improvident and those whose nervous powers are

unstrung; but the world has not yet advanced sufficiently to render

those dangers unreal. The indolence of mind which shrinks from facing

difficulties and leaves them to solve themselves is not the least

element of weakness in her European neighbours by which Russia profits

and through which she grows; but the victory will now as always be

given to those states which unite with a higher civilisation a spirit

of enterprise still healthy and powers still unimpaired.

END OF VOL. I

NOTES

[1] J. P. Fallmerayer, born in 1790, the son of humble parents,

whose flocks he tended on the mountain-sides as a boy. Died in 1861;

a great scholar, a great writer, whose work has not yet received all

the recognition which it deserves.

[2] Finlay, Mediæval Greece and the Empire of Trebizond, Oxford,

1877, p. 340.

[3] The dimensions of the interior are: length to head of apse,

33 feet; breadth, 21 feet 7 inches.

[4] The ornament is as follows: [Illustration].

The inscription is: [Illustration].

I notice that M. Gabriel Millet identifies this figure as a Saint

Michael (op. infra cit. p. 436).

[5] Bejeshkean (op. infra cit.) publishes the inscription of

Justinian on the face of the old gateway of Tabakhaneh, which has

now disappeared. It records the restoration of the public edifices

of the city by that emperor. See also Hamilton, op. infra cit.

[6] The population of Trebizond at the present day is estimated at

45,000 souls.

[7] Since writing this chapter two articles in the Bulletin

de Correspondance Hellénique (Paris) for 1895 have come to my

notice. They are: G. Millet, Les monastères et les églises de

Trébizonde, pp. 419-459; and J. Strzygowski, Les chapiteaux de Sainte

Sophie de Trébizonde, pp. 517-522.

[8] A railway, connecting the capital of Georgia, Tiflis, with

Alexandropol and Kars, has been completed since the date of this

journey. It winds its way up the valley of the Borchala.

[9] At 11.15 A.M. 83° F.

[10] Temperature 86° F.

[11] Temperature at 10 P.M. 72° F.; 6.30 A.M. 66° F.

[12] Radde (Reisen in Hoch Armenien, Petermann's Mitth., Gotha,

1875, p. 59) says: "It appears that at least in this district potato

culture is making considerable progress in recent times among the

Armenians." He attributes this to the example of the Molokans and

Dukhobortsy.

[13] By the road the distance, according to our coachman, would be

15 versts or 10 miles; by the track which we followed 10 versts or

6 1/2 miles.

[14] Dubois de Montpéreux, Voyage autour du Caucase, Paris 1839-43,

vol. ii.

[15] Brosset, Voyage archéologique en Transcaucasie, St. Petersburg,

1849, 1re livraison, 2me rapport, pp. 119 seq., and atlas, plates

v. and vi.; Dubois, op. cit. vol. ii. pp. 292 seq.

[16] Brosset, op. cit. p. 143.

[17] Population of Akhaltsykh:--

(1) According to nationality: Armenians, 10,417; Georgians,

2730; Jews, 2545; others (including 145 Russians and 110 Poles),

424--Total, 16,116.

(2) According to religion: Gregorian Armenians, 9678; Catholic

Armenians, 739; Roman Catholics, 2311; Jews, 2545; others

(including 777 Russian Orthodox, 9 Lutherans, and 57 Sunni

Mohammedans), 843. (Statistics concerning the populations of

Transcaucasia derived from the family lists of 1886. Published

by Government, Tiflis, 1893.)

[18] They were: Akhaltsykh, Atzkur, Aspinja, Khertvis, Akhalkalaki,

Ardahan (Dubois, op. cit. vol. ii. pp. 284-85).

[19] The slave trade was carried on through Circassians, who kidnapped

the inhabitants of Georgia proper and fled with them across the

Turkish border to Akhaltsykh (Dubois, op. cit. vol. ii. pp. 261-62;

Haxthausen, Transcaucasia, London, 1854, p. 100).

[20] Adrien Dupré in Gamba, Voyage dans la Russie méridionale, Paris,

1826, vol. i. p. 403.

[21] For the interesting siege and capture of Akhaltsykh by Paskevich

I may refer the reader to Monteith, Kars and Erzerum, London, 1856,

ch. vi. pp. 182 seq.; Dubois, op. cit. vol. ii. pp. 258 seq., and

a note to Haxthausen, op. cit. p. 100. Eli Smith, who travelled in

the country in 1830-31, informs us that the siege of Akhaltsykh was

one of the two occasions upon which the Turks gave the Russians a

fair trial of their bravery. The other was at Baiburt (Missionary

Researches in Armenia, London, 1834, p. 82).

[22] Dubois saw it still standing in 1833. I cannot find when it

was cut down. Brosset (op. cit. p. 149) mentions the conversion of

the mosque.

[23] Dubois, op. cit. vol. ii. p. 263.

[24] Eli Smith informs us that at the time of his journey (1830-31)

Akhaltsykh was the only place, coming within the range of his enquiry

in Turkish Armenia, that contained any Jews (Missionary Researches,

p. 100).

[25] Brosset, op. cit. p. 149.

[26] Dubois, op. cit. vol. ii. p. 267.

[27] Brosset, op. cit. pp. 139, 149.

[28] Brosset speaks of the church and tower of Akhashen as being

remarkable both as an example of composite architecture and for

possessing a fine sculptured cross on the door and a figure of

St. Theodore on horseback (Voyage archéologique en Transcaucasie,

St. Petersburg, 1849, 1re livraison, 2me rapport, p. 150).

[29] Neither Dubois (Voyage autour du Caucase, Paris 1839-43,

vol. ii. p. 330) nor Brosset (Voy. arch. 2me rapport, p. 176) has

more than passing notices of Aspinja. But Dubois tells us that in his

time all the inhabitants spoke Georgian except the mollah, who had

recently arrived from Asia Minor. He adds that they were formerly

Georgian Christians, and their ancient church still existed in a

ruinous condition.

[30] I have not verified their statement, which was repeated in other

places, that according to a decree of 1890 they would be liable to

military service in ten years after the date of the decree.

[31] 229 houses, with 1360 inhabitants (Family lists of 1886).

[32] He gives a population of 800 souls (op. cit. vol. ii. p. 304).

[33] Dubois (op. cit. vol. ii. pp. 298, 299) informs us that the

Mussulmans of these districts are the old Georgian inhabitants

whom Safar Pasha compelled to embrace Islam in 1625. He adds that

the Armenians escaped this persecution, having been accorded by the

reigning Sultan liberty of conscience, like the Jews in France under

similar conditions.

The river Kur is essentially a Georgian river, even where it traverses

districts which belong geographically to the Armenian tableland. For

the history and character of the country about its upper course one

may usefully consult the works of Dubois and Brosset already cited

in this chapter, and Koch's Reise im pontischen Gebirge, Weimar, 1846.

[34] Dubois (op. cit. vol. ii. p. 314) calls the Kur a torrent above

Khertvis, and says it only becomes a river after the junction with

the Toporovan river.

[35] I must refer the reader to Dubois, op. cit. vol. ii. pp. 302 seq.,

and Brosset, Voy. arch. p. 152.

[36] So Abich explains the phenomena (Geologische Forschungen in den

kaukasischen Ländern, part iii. p. 31).

[37] Dubois, op. cit. vol. ii. pp. 308 seq.; Brosset, Voy. arch. 2me

rapport, p. 165, who gives an account of the adjacent church of Tsunda;

and Abich, op. cit. part iii. p. 34. I would refer my reader to the

last of these writers for an account of the geology of the gorge of

Zeda Tmogvi (part iii. pp. 35, 36).

[38] Brosset is not quite sure about it (Voy. arch. 2me rapport,

p. 165). The governor of Akhalkalaki had no doubt about the correctness

of the identification.

[39] Dubois, op. cit. vol. ii. p. 319; and see also Brosset, Atlas

(plate xii.) to the Voyage archéologique and text, pp. 163 seq. I

shall not attempt to reconcile the text of Brosset with his plan of

the church, his plan with that of Dubois, or the measurements of either

with my own. My own measurements at Vardzia and throughout the journey

were made by myself with a long tape-measure which I always carried

with me. The height of the church is given by Dubois as 40 feet.

[40] In taking leave of Vardzia may I refer the reader to the

excellent description of Dubois. He mentions the existence of a

third and smaller church, which he says is adorned with ancient

frescos, with inscriptions which are all in the Greek language. The

frescos are in the Byzantine style, and cannot be much later than the

middle of the eleventh century. Brosset, who also saw this chapel,

maintains, on the other hand, that all the inscriptions are in the

Georgian ecclesiastical character; he adds that there is a Greek

inscription disposed about the emblems of a Calvary in an adjoining

niche (Voy. arch. 2me rapport, p. 106).

[41] The published total of 59,496 is made up as follows:--Armenians,

42,301; Georgians, 9771; Russians, 6617; Kurds, 689; others, 118

(official statistics based on the lists of 1886, Tiflis 1893). It

is noticeable that the Governor's list places the Russians at 6300,

a diminution since 1886.

[42] The plain has a gulf-like extension or arm on the side of Lake

Tabizkhuro. Coming from the lake, Radde estimated that the plain

proper commences at the village of Kestano, which I take to be the

Bejano of the Russian map, and that this village lay some 1000 feet

lower than the level of the lake. The plain would therefore have an

altitude of 5650 feet at its north-eastern extremity. From Bejano to

the south-western shore of Lake Khozapin is a direct distance on the

map of thirty-six miles.

[43] Radde in Petermann's Mitth. 1876, p. 143.

[44] Radde is almost certainly in error in making the pass of Karakaya,

which is the shortest route, over 9500 feet high (Petermann's Mitth.,

1876, p. 141).

[45] Monteith (Kars and Erzeroum, pp. 85, 168, 173 seq.). Haxthausen

informs us that "not one Turk accepted his life--every man remained

dead upon the spot" (Transcaucasia, p. 100). He had received the

story in this truly Oriental form.

[46] Abich calls it "das am weitesten umfassende des armenischen

Hochlandes" with the exception of the view from Ararat (Geologische

Forschungen in den kaukasischen Ländern, Vienna, 1887, part

iii. p. 39). But few have been or probably ever will be privileged

to reach the summit of the mother of the world under conditions

entirely favourable to such a panorama. And from such a height the

world appears very insignificant.

[47] According to Eli Smith (Missionary Researches in Armenia, London

1834, pp. 195 seq.), upon whom I have based this account, the whole

number of these German colonists was in 1830 about 2000 souls. Their

present number may be estimated from the published statistics of

1886. The following are the figures for the various colonies:--

Government of Tiflis: Town of Tiflis, 1117. Administrative

division (ouezde) of Tiflis: Alexandersdorf, 384; Marienfeld, 396;

Petersdorf, 195; Friedenthal, 83; Elizabeththal, 1148. Ouezde

of Borchali: Ekaterinenfeld, 1209; Alexandershilf, 366. Other

localities, 60. Total for Government of Tiflis, 4958.

Government of Elizabetpol: Helenendorf, 1457; Anenfeld, 437. Total,

1894.

Grand total, 6852 souls.

[48] Eli Smith, speaking of the Roman Catholic missions, is not ashamed

to make use of the following language:--"Unfortunately a missionary can

hardly set his foot upon any spot in that field (the Mediterranean)

without encountering some sentinel of the 'Mother of Harlots,' ready

to challenge him and shout the alarm" (op. cit. p. 210). In the course

of my reading I have incidentally collected parallel passages from

the works of other writers belonging to the cloth, and it is with pain

that I note that for foul thoughts, expressed through a foul mouth, it

would be difficult to find their equal in the writings of lay authors.

[49] The Armenian Lutherans of Baku were numbered at 350 souls in 1886

(Official Statistics, etc.). According to Sembat, there are also

communities at Shemakha, Erivan and its neighbourhood, Karakala,

near Kars, and Tiflis.

[50] Müller-Simonis, Du Caucase au Golfe Persique, Paris, 1892, p. 3.

[51] Letter of the Rev. Athelstan Riley to Daily Chronicle of London,

August 1897.

[52] Maksimoff, Transcaucasia, quoted by Radde in Petermann's Mitth.,

1896, p. 145.

[53] See Count Tolstoy in the Times, October 23, 1895. I would also

refer my reader to a book published since this chapter was written,

entitled Christian Martyrdom in Russia, edited by Vladimir Tchertkoff,

with a chapter and letter by Leo Tolstoy, London, 1897.

[54] Tolstoy (the Times, loc. cit.) puts their present number at

20,000, I know not upon what authority. The official figures based

on the lists of 1886 are:--Government of Tiflis (Akhalkalaki and

Borchali), 7263; Government of Elizabetpol, 2404; Government of Kars,

2766; Government of Erivan, 15. Total, 12,448.

[55] According to the statistics of 1886 it would contain 93 houses

and 839 inhabitants.

[56] Koch speaks of the surprise with which he saw rye being harvested

in the country north of Erzerum at an altitude of at least 7500 feet

(Reise im pontischen Gebirge, Weimar, 1846, p. 267). Telfer (Crimea

and Transcaucasia, London, 1876, vol. i. p. 278) quotes from reports

issued by the Tiflis Observatory which establish the following limits

for the Southern Caucasus:--Barley, 8100 feet; corn, 7906 feet; wheat,

7400 feet; vine, 3500 feet. Radde estimates that on the northern slopes

of Alagöz corn ripens at 8300 feet (Petermann's Mitth., 1876, p. 147).

[57] Lukeria Vasilievna Kalmakoff was given to me as her full name.

[58] Count Tolstoy's informant says: "To Christ, as to an historical

personage, the Dukhobortsy do not ascribe much importance" (The Times,

loc. cit.). He goes on to tell how, when the Quakers visited them in

1818 and heard their opinion about Jesus Christ (that he was a man),

these pious people exclaimed, "Darkness!" I cannot reconcile this

account with what I learnt at Gorelovka, except by the reflection

that the Christian world itself holds many opinions upon this subject.

[59] As a sequel to these events, the Dukhobortsy have emigrated in

large numbers from their seats beyond Caucasus. Once the flower of

the peasantry in Russia, and afterwards the special pride of Russian

Governors in their seats of exile, they have now lost their hardiest

spirits in a fresh exodus. And it is the British Empire which receives

them! Their choice was at first bestowed upon the island of Cyprus;

but the warm climate was unpropitious, and they lost some 100 souls in

about eight months. The bulk of the emigrants appear to have taken

ship from Cyprus for Canada and British North America during the

spring of 1899.

[60] The official statistics, based on the census of 1886, give

Alexandropol a population of 24,230 souls, of whom 22,920 are

Armenians. Only 200 of these are Armenian Catholic.

[61] Ritter (Erdkunde, vol. x. pp. 438-39) identifies the modern name

Shuragel with the country designated in Armenian literature as Shirak.

[62] Ker Porter, Travels in Georgia, Persia, Armenia, etc., London,

1821, vol. i. p. 168.

[63] Wilbraham, Travels in the Transcaucasian Provinces, London,

1839, p. 277.

[64] For the explanation of this term see the chapter on Erivan.

[65] Fragments of the walls of this building alone survive.

[66] So the inscription on the south wall, as rendered by Brosset

(Voyage archéologique, 3me rapport, p. 86; and Ruines d'Ani, p. 64).

[67] Brosset, loc. cit.

[68] Radde in Petermann's Mitth., 1876, p. 147.

[69] "...contemplate the company of the stars by night, and them that

bring winter and summer to mortals, the radiant potentates conspicuous

in the heaven" (Æschylus, Agamemnon, ls. 4-7).

[70] Bryce, Transcaucasia and Ararat, 4th and revised edition, London,

1896, p. 312.

[71] At Aralykh the thermometer ranged between 60° and 70° Fahrenheit

between the hours of 6 A.M. and 9 A.M. on the several mornings. At

mid-day it rose to about 80°.

[72] The temperature at 6.30 P.M. was 50° Fahrenheit, but it sank

rapidly in the cold wind.

[73] Temperature 10.15 A.M., 72° Fahrenheit.

[74] It is alluded to by some travellers under the name of Tash Kilisa.

[75] Madame B. Chantre, À travers l'Arménie Russe, Paris, 1893, p. 219.

[76] Markoff, Ascension du Grand Ararat, in Bulletin de la

Soc. Roy. Belge de Géographie, Brussels, 1888, p. 579.

[77] Temperature at 8 P.M., 18° F., and next morning at 5.45 A.M.,

28° F.

[78] See the photograph of the summit region (Fig. 36, p. 180),

which clearly shows these various features.

[79] Yet it looks a mere streak in the illustration (Fig. 36). The

lower end of the snow slope was not well seen from the standpoint of

that photograph. Actually it resembles a magnificent river.

[80] Abich (Geologische Forschungen in den kaukasischen Ländern,

Vienna, 1882, part ii. p. 455) ascribes to it an elevation of 14,600

feet.

[81] The temperature of the air a few feet below the summit out of

the gale was 20° F. The height of the north-western elevation of

the south-eastern summit of Ararat is given by my Hicks mountain

aneroid as 17,493 feet. The reading is no doubt too high by several

hundred feet. The Carey aneroid gives a still higher figure, and the

Boylean-Mariotti mercurial barometer entirely refused to work.

[82] The readings on the prismatic compass were 310° and 105°

respectively.

[83] Sophocles, OEdipus at Colonus, l. 610 seq.

[84] Abich, Besteigung des Ararat, in Baer and Helmersen's

Beiträge zur Kenntniss des Russischen Reiches, St. Petersburg,

1849, vol. xiii. p. 63. He supports this suggestion by the fact that

neither Parrot nor Spasky Avtonomoff mentions the existence of such

a fissure. But whether you may be able to see any trace of it or not

must depend upon the state of the snow.

[85] Tournefort, Voyage du Levant, Paris, 1717, vol. ii. pp. 357

seq. See also Ritter, Erdkunde, vol. x. p. 507.

[86] I refer my reader to the works of Tournefort (already cited),

Parrot (Reise zum Ararat, Berlin, 1834), and Dubois de Montpéreux

(Voyage autour du Caucase, Paris, 1839-45, vol. iii.).

[87] The measurements are my own. Dubois speaks of Akhury as being

five leagues distant from the Kara Su.

[88] Parrot says the same thing, op. cit. p. 108.

[89] For a discussion of the name see Parrot, op. cit. p. 110. Ritter

(Erdkunde, x. 508) also refers to Brosset (Bulletin de l'Acad. de

Sc. de St. Pétersbourg, 1841, vol. viii. p. 43), but is in error

when he says that Brosset spells it Aghuri. He actually spells it

Acorhi, and throws doubt upon the popular derivation of the name. It

would appear that the old Armenian name for the place was Akuri or

Agguri, and that later Armenian writers turned the word into Ark-uri

in order to extract the signification which I have given in the

text. I have adopted the spelling of the Russian official map, which

practically reproduces the old word. Dr. Belck has made the ingenious

suggestion that the Adduri of the Assyrian inscription of Shalmaneser

II. (859-824 B.C.)--a name which is applied to the mountains whither

Arame, king of Urardhu or Ararat, fled before the armies of the

Assyrian monarch--may be represented by the Armenian Akuri or Agguri

(Verhandlungen der Berliner Gesellschaft für Anthropologie, 1893,

p. 71). That the ancient name of a district often survives in that

of a town in these countries is proved by the analogy of the town

of Van, which bears the name of the kingdom of which it was formerly

the capital, the Biaina of the Vannic texts.

[90] Wagner (op. infra cit. p. 166) says that at the time of the

catastrophe the Armenian inhabitants numbered nearly 1600 souls,

besides Kurdish labourers.

[91] Von Behagel (apud Parrot, op. cit. 2nd part, p. 183) says 1000

feet. I quote Parrot p. 147.

[92] Parrot, op. cit. p. 147. Von Behagel (loc. cit.) says that it was

3258 Paris feet, or 3472 English feet, above the plain of the Araxes.

[93] Parrot, op. cit. p. 135; Dubois, op. cit. vol. iii. p. 471. Most

travellers tell this story with amplifications and variations. It

is to be found in its earliest form in Faustus of Byzantium (book

iii. chap. x.).

[94] Parrot, op. cit. p. 205.

[95] Von Behagel, apud Parrot, loc. cit.

[96] Tournefort, op. cit. vol. ii. p. 368 seq.

[97] The testimony of these witnesses is given by Abich, Geognostiche

Reise zum Ararat, with two drawings of the chasm, in Monatsberichte der

Gesellschaft für Erdkunde zu Berlin, series 2, vol. iv. 1846-47. The

account is reproduced in his Geologische Forschungen in den

kaukasischen Ländern, Vienna, 1882, part ii. pp. 395 seq., and

illustrated by a fine geological view of the chasm in the Atlas,

plate vi. It can best be understood in the reprint. See also Wagner,

op. inf. cit., and Ritter, Erdkunde, x. pp. 507 seq.

[98] See the summary of this report in Ritter, Erdkunde, x. pp. 509

seq.

[99] See Moriz Wagner (Reise nach dem Ararat und dem Hochland

Armenien, Stuttgart, 1848, contained in Widermann and Hauff, Reisen

und Landesbeschreibungen, Lieferung 35), and Abich in op. cit.

[100] Consult the argument in Wagner, op. cit. pp. 176 seq.

[101] See Ritter, Erdkunde, x. 510; and for former earthquakes

see Dubois, op. cit. vol. iii. p. 474; Abich, Geolog. Forsch. part

ii. pp. 390 seq. with map.

[102] "5 versts in a direct line" are Abich's words, op. cit. p. 413.

[103] Ritter, Erdkunde, x. pp. 512, 513.

[104] Abich, Geolog. Forsch. part ii. p. 412.

[105] Abich, op. cit. pp. 413, 414. It is evident that he had Wagner's

objections in his mind.

[106] This was the reading of my Hicks mountain aneroid, which was

working well, and it agrees with Parrot who says that the shrine

stood about 1000 feet above the cloister, i.e. at about 7400 English

feet. I fear, therefore, that Madame Chantre is in error in ascribing

to the site of the cloister, much lower down, an elevation of 2250

metres or 7382 feet (L'Arménie Russe, p. 238). Monsieur Chantre, in

his monograph on Ararat, confuses the site of the shrine with that

of the cloister, an error which was also made by my Armenian guide

(Annales de Géographie, Paris, 1893-94, vol. iii. pp. 81-94).

[107] Abich, Geolog. Forsch. part ii. p. 412, and see for the glacier,

etc. pp. 397, 399, 400. The illustration is contained on Table VI. of

his atlas. Parrot appears to be silent on the subject of this glacier;

but Von Behagel, his companion, offers some remarks upon it (Parrot,

2nd part, p. 184). I may also refer my reader to Dr. Markoff's article

in the Bulletin de la société royale Belge de géographie, 1888, p. 589.

[108] Feodoroff, the companion of Parrot, measuring from the valley of

the Araxes, estimated the difference at 7 feet; Khodzko at 120 feet;

Bryce at "some 50 feet or so," all in favour of the more westerly

elevation. My reader will notice that in the photograph (Fig. 37) the

more easterly, viz. on the left hand, appears to be slightly higher;

but this circumstance is due to the fact that it stands out a little

in advance of its neighbour, when seen from the side of the country

between Erivan and Aralykh.

[109] In estimating the level of the zone of perpetual snow on Ararat

I am leaving out of account those smaller or greater collections of

snow which owe their subsistence all through the summer to special

circumstances, such as shelter from the sun.

Mr. D. W. Freshfield (Exploration of the Caucasus, London, 1896,

vol. i. p. 55) gives 10,000 feet as a fair figure for the snow-level

in the central chain of Caucasus.

[110] The account of an ascent in 1897 has quite recently come

into my hands. It is written by Herr A. Oswald, whose attempt

was crowned with complete success (Eine Besteigung des Ararat in

Jahrb. schweiz. Alpenclub, Berne, 1899-1900, vol. xxxv. pp. 157-183).

[111] For Artaxata, Dvin, Khor Virap, etc., see Ker Porter's Travels

(vol. ii. pp. 619 seq.); Morier (Second Journey, p. 316 and pp. 339

seq.); Dubois (op. cit. vol. iii. pp. 382 seq.); Smith and Dwight

(op. cit. pp. 273 seq.). Dubois mentions, but was unable to visit, the

grottoes of Okhtchapert on the direct road between Erivan and Garni,

p. 402. They are mentioned by Telfer (Crimea and Transcaucasia,

vol. i. p. 210), who passed by them on his way to Garni from

Erivan. Telfer's book should be consulted by English readers for an

account of these various antiquities. I would also recommend to the

archæologist who is desirous of investigating the question of the

site of Artaxata a reference to Dubois (vol. iii. p. 449).

[112] Op. cit. vol. iii. p. 480.

[113] According to the Jesuit, Père Monier, who wrote an account of

the mission at Erivan in the eighteenth century, there were only 4000

inhabitants of the town proper in his day. Of these only one-fourth

were Armenians (Lettres Édifiantes, Mémoires du Levant, Paris, 1780,

vol. iii. p. 25). In the thirties of last century the usual estimate

seems to have been 2500 families or at least 10,000 souls, of whom

some 700 to 1000 families were Armenian (Smith and Dwight, Missionary

Researches, p. 279; Sijalski, Aufenthalt in Erivan, Das Ausland,

Augsburg, 1839). The Armenians are rapidly turning the tables upon

the Tartars.

[114] Chardin, edit. Paris, 1811, vol. ii. p. 169.

[115] "Erivân, apparens, quia regio ista prima apparuit Noe cum

descenderet ex monte Ararat" (Villotte, Dict. Arm. p. 273, quoted by

Langlès ap. Chardin, loc. cit.).

[116] Moses of Khorene, vol. ii. p. 46.

[117] Lane Poole, Mohammedan Dynasties, London, 1894, p. 259.

[118] For the Mohammedan tradition see Travels of Evliya, translated by

Von Hammer, London, 1850, vol. ii. p. 150. "In the year 810 (A.D. 1407)

Khoja Khan Lejchani, a rich merchant of Timur's suite, settled here

(at Erivan) with all his family and servants, cultivating plantations

of rice, by which means a great Kent was soon formed. Five years later

Shah Ismail gave to Revan Kul, one of his khans, an order to build

a castle here, which, being finished in seven years, was named after

him Revan or Erivan." The five years of Evliya are incomprehensible

to me. Erivan is mentioned by John Katholikos, who wrote in the

eleventh century, as having been a considerable place in the seventh

(Saint-Martin's translation, Paris, 1841, p. 80).

[119] Dubois de Montpéreux, Voyage autour du Caucase, Paris, 1839,

vol. iii. pp. 346 seq. When Morier, secretary to the British Embassy

to Persia, visited the sirdar or governor of Erivan in 1814, he was

told by his host with great gravity that "if three or four of the

kings of Fireng (Europe) were to unite to take this castle, they

might just take the trouble of going back again, for their labours

would be in vain" (Morier, Second Journey, London, 1818, p. 319). The

sirdar's view was not held by British officers, one of whom, in giving

an account of his visit in 1837, says, "I had expected to find the

castle almost impregnable from the honours which were heaped upon the

Marshal Paskevich for its capture, and was quite surprised to find

a mere Turkish fort, strong indeed by nature on one side, but on the

other three defended merely by a mud wall, and commanded from all the

adjoining hills" (Wilbraham, Travels in the Transcaucasian Provinces,

etc., London, 1839).

[120] "In dieser abermahligen Veränderung seynd auch alle Türkische

Moscheen der Stadt übern Hauffen geworffen ... also das etliche

dergleichen Tempel bis zum Fundament erniedriget und übel ärger von

Persianen verwüstet als jemahl die Kirchen der Christen von Türcken

zugerichtet worden seynd. So züchtiget Gott die Mahumetaner mit

Mahumetanern" (Schillinger, Persianische und Ost-Indianische Reise

vom Jahr 1699 bis 1702, Nürnberg, 1707).

[121] Tavernier, edit. of Paris, 1679, vol. i. p. 37; Père Monier,

op. cit. vol. iii. p. 24.

[122] Von Hammer, Geschichte des Osm. Reiches, vol. vii. p. 321.

[123] Morier, Second Journey, p. 320.

[124] Dubois de Montpéreux, op. cit. vol. iii p. 452.

[125] Dubois, ibid. pp. 339 seq. and Atlas.

[126] Dubois, ibid. p. 346, and Morier, Hajji Baba.

[127] Chapter viii. of the Polojenye of 1836.

[128] I was informed by a competent authority that, including Tiflis

and the whole of Russian Transcaucasia, there were not less than 400

Armenian schools in existence at the time of my visit. About one-third

of the number would be schools for girls.

[129] Müller-Simonis (Du Caucase au Golfe Persique, Paris, 1892,

p. 62), speaking of the celebration of the ceremonies in honour of

Ali and Hoseyn at Erivan, says: "Le soir les fanatiques qui devront

représenter les martyres à la grande procession, font une promenade

aux flambeaux, armés de sabres et de gourdins. Ils agitent en mesure

leurs flambeaux et leurs armes, criant en même temps à tue-tête:

'Hussein, Ali, Hussein, Ali.' Les reflets rouges des torches, ici

découpant les blanches silhouettes des maisons, là plongeant en

lueurs étranges sous la verdure des arbres, puis éclairant en plein

les figures hideuses de ces dévots, forment un spectacle sauvage et

fantastique." The picture is true to life. I have little doubt that

such a procession may still be witnessed at Erivan.

[130] According to Dubois de Montpéreux the fortifications of

Edgmiatsin were restored by the Katholikos Simeon between 1763 and 1780

(Voyage autour du Caucase, Paris, 1839-43, vol. iii. p. 360).

[131] The true inwardness of this policy did not escape the

notice of the French traveller Boré, who, writing in 1838, says:

"En s'avançant vers l'Asie Centrale la Russie cherchait à réaliser

une pensée politique habilement conçue, qui lui promet pour l'avenir

des résultats avantageux. Comme puissance chrétienne, elle se déclare

la protectrice de tous les chrétiens assujétis à la double puissance

Mahométane qu'elle combattait.... Voilà pourquoi l'on tenait beaucoup

encore à enclaver dans l'empire le monastère d'Echemiazin; attendu

qu'étant le siège du chef principal de la communion arménienne, on

devait tenir dans les liens de son pouvoir spirituel la majeure partie

des Arméniens répandus dans les royaumes limitrophes" (Correspondance

et Mémoires, Paris, 1840, vol. ii. pp. 36, 37).

[132] Monteith, Kars and Erzerum, London, 1856, p. 38. During

the campaigns against Persia the convent of Edgmiatsin obtained

declarations from both belligerents that their territory should be

considered neutral ground. The Russians, however, appear to have made

use of it as a base (ibid. p. 133). While at Edgmiatsin I was told

that in 1804 the Persians erected a battery upon the roof, which

naturally suffered, although I am not aware that the Russians came

to any harm from the battery.

[133] Morier's Second Journey, London, 1818, pp. 323 seq. According

to Von Haxthausen Russian influence had already become preponderant

in the election of a katholikos as early as 1768, when the Katholikos

Lukas sought and obtained the sanction of Russia upon his elevation

(Transcaucasia, English edition, London, 1854, p. 307). We learn

from another source that the Katholikos Ephraim (1809-31) was

accorded the special protection of the Tsar, and that he did not

assume his functions before receiving the imperial assurance at

St. Petersburg that the pontificate of Armenia would ever receive

such protection. This same Tsar, Alexander I., loaded the bishops and

priests who accompanied Ephraim with honours and presents (Avdall's

continuation of Chamchean's History, Calcutta, 1827, pp. 519-20).

[134] Melikoff is said to have had under his command a body of

2000 Armenian volunteers as well as some 400 officers of the same

nationality. See the Reminiscences of a Delegate to the Congress of

Berlin in the newspaper L'Arménie for 15th August 1892 (published

in London).

[135] Nine articles of the Polojenye deal with the election of a

katholikos. Upon a vacancy of the Chair it is the duty of the synod

to issue invitations to all Armenian dioceses, whether in Russia or

elsewhere, calling upon them each to name two deputies, one clerical

and one lay, who shall repair to Edgmiatsin after the lapse of a

year. These deputies, should they be unable to attend in person,

may signify their vote by letter. In addition to the deputies the

members of the synod and seven of the oldest bishops of Edgmiatsin

have votes ex officio. The election takes place in the church of the

Illuminator. Four candidates are chosen by vote in the first place. A

second ballot narrows the selection to two. The assembly then appoints

three delegates who repair to the Governor-General of the Caucasus

and officially communicate the result. The Governor-General transmits

the two names to the Emperor through the Minister of the Interior. The

Emperor confirms the katholikos and gives him the ukase. After he has

taken the oath of allegiance to the Russian throne he is consecrated

according to the rite of the Armenian Church.

In Russia there are at present only six dioceses of the Armenian

Church; they are specified in the Polojenye. They are:--1. New

Nakhichevan and Bessarabia; 2. Astrakhan; 3. Erivan; 4. Tiflis;

5. Karabagh; 6. Shirvan. Kars is at present a vicarate, dependent

upon Erivan. In Turkey there are, I am informed, usually no less

than fifty-two dioceses; but there are not always bishops to every

diocese. In Persia there are two, namely New Julfa and Tabriz. It

will thus be seen that the Armenians of Turkey have the preponderant

vote, and that the clergy have a small majority over the lay members,

to the extent of the synod and seven of the bishops of Edgmiatsin.

At the last election, which took place on the 17th of May 1892, there

were present in the church of St. Gregory 72 electors, including

the synod and the 7 bishops. The number might have been about

135. But several dioceses appointed the same delegate. The vote for

Mgr. Khrimean was unanimous, the second candidate being only nominal.

Other articles of the Polojenye to which I should like to call

attention are to the following effect:--The usual Russian provision

forbidding proselytising is inserted. The katholikos alone is permitted

to make the holy oil. The synod is to consist of four bishops and

four archimandrites, all resident at Edgmiatsin. It is to assemble

at least twice a week. The katholikos is ex officio a member of

synod and presides when he is present. It is not said whether the

procurator has a right to be present at the deliberations; but the

minutes and decisions must all be submitted to him. All monasteries

are to be regulated according to the rule of St. Basil, and to become

a monk it is necessary to obtain the sanction of the synod upon the

recommendation of a bishop. A married man may become a monk if he have

no children under age and if his wife agree to enter a convent. The

Church schools are recognised; but their rules and curricula must be

submitted to the synod. The synod must in turn submit them to the

Minister of the Interior. Finally it is stated that the Armenian

clergy are supported by the gifts of the Armenian people, and the

nature of these gifts is specified.

[136] According to Von Haxthausen (journey in 1843) the synod took the

place of the general council of the Church, which it was impossible

to assemble. He adds that in 1783 the Patriarch Lukas decreed that

it should not consist of fewer than seven members; in 1802 there were

nine members (Transcaucasia, English edition, p. 305).

[137] Captain Richard Wilbraham, Travels, etc., London, 1839, p. 98. At

the time of his visit in 1837 the procurator was actually an Armenian,

but quite Russianised.

[138] Transcaucasia, German edition, Leipzig, 1856, vol. i. pp. 256

seq.; English edition, pp. 284 seq. Von Haxthausen speaks of the

"Grobheit des Procurators." It is only just to add that the katholikos

was absent during his visit.

[139] I was shown the documents in the library. The method of the

election of the Katholikos Makar affords great sport to the Jesuit

Vernier. He hails with delight the constitution of Edgmiatsin into

a state prison "où l'élu de la nation demeure sous la garde d'un

gêolier Moscovite. Cet élu a fini par déplaire au despote couronné de

St. Pétersbourg; le czar vient de rejeter avec mépris l'oecuménique

qui avait réuni la majorité des suffrages, et de lui substituer

arbitrairement un Russe qui n'a d'Arménien que le nom. Dans quelques

années de par le knout, ce nom même disparaîtra, et quelque pape

cosaque remplacera l'Arménien russifié et occupera à Edgmiatsin le

trône de saint Grégoire. Terrible et juste vengeance de Dieu...." The

italics are mine (Histoire du Patriarcat Arménien Catholique, Paris,

1891, p. 285).

[140] Sophocles, OEdipus Tyrannus, 1. 58.

[141] The new catalogue, which has not yet been printed [September

1900], will contain some 3500 titles. So far as I have been able to

ascertain, there already exist two catalogues--(1) that published

by the Academy of Sciences, St. Petersburg, 1840, and (2) that by

Caréniantz, Tiflis, 1863, 4o [in Armenian].

Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2) The Russian Provinces · 第 24 / 25 章