_Cleansing Solution for Brass._--Put together two ounces sulphuric acid,
an ounce and a half nitric acid, one dram saltpetre and two ounces rain
water. Let stand for a few hours, and apply by passing the article in
and out quickly, and then washing off thoroughly with clean rain water.
Old, discolored brass chains treated in this way will look equally as
well as when new. The usual method of drying as in sawdust.
_To Cover Brass with beautiful Luster Colors._--One ounce of cream of
tartar is dissolved in one quart of hot water, to which is added half an
ounce of tin salt (protochloride of tin) dissolved in four ounces of
cold water. The whole is then heated to boiling, the clear solution
decanted from a trifling precipitate, and poured under continual
stirring into a solution of three ounces hyposulphite of soda in
one-half a pint of water, whereupon it is again heated to boiling, and
filtered from the separated sulphur. This solution produces on brass the
various luster-colors, depending on the length of time during which the
articles are allowed to remain in it. The colors at first will be light
to dark, gold yellow, passing through all the tints of red to an
irridescent brown. A similar series of colors is produced by sulphide of
copper and lead, which, however, are not remarkable for their stability;
whether this defect will be obviated by the use of the tin solution,
experience and time alone can show.
_Bronzing Gun-Barrels._--The so-called butter of zinc used for bronzing
gun-barrels is made by dissolving zinc in hydrochloric acid till no more
free acid is left; which is secured by placing zinc in the acid until it
ceases to be dissolved. The liquid is then evaporated until a drop taken
out and placed on a piece of glass solidifies in cooling, when it is
mixed with 2 parts of olive oil for every three parts of the liquid. The
barrels must be cleansed and warmed before applying the so-called
butter, which put on with a piece of linen rag.
_Bronzing Fluid._--For brown: Iron filings, or scales, 1 lb.; arsenic, 1
oz.; hydrochloric acid, 1 lb.; metallic zinc, 1 oz. The article to be
bronzed is to be dipped in this solution till the desired effect be
produced.
_Bronze, Green._--Acetic acid, diluted, 4 lbs; green veriter, 2 oz.;
muriate of ammonia, 1 oz.; common salt, 2 oz.; alum, ½ oz.; French
berries, ½ lb.; boil them together till the berries have yielded their
color, and strain. Olive bronze, for brass or copper.--Nitric acid, 1
oz.; hydrochloric acid, 2 oz.; titanium or palladium, as much as will
dissolve, and add three pints of distilled water.
_To Soften Cast-Iron, for Drilling._--Heat to a cherry red, having it
lie level in the fire, then with a pair of cold tongs put on a piece of
brimstone, a little less in size than you wish the hole to be when
drilled, and it softens entirely through the piece; let it lie in the
fire until a little cool, when it is ready to drill.
_To Weld Cast-Iron._--Take of good clear white sand, three parts;
refined solton, one part; fosterine, one part; rock-salt, one part; mix
all together. Take 2 pieces of cast-iron, heat them in a moderate
charcoal-fire, occasionally taking them out while heating, and dipping
them into the composition, until they are of a proper heat to weld; then
at once lay them on the anvil, and gently hammer them together, and, if
done carefully by one who understands welding iron, you will have them
nicely welded together. One man prefers heating the metal, then cooling
it in the water of common beans, and heat it again for welding.
_To recut old Files and Rasps._--Dissolve 4 oz. of saleratus in 1 quart
of water, and boil the files in it for half an hour; then remove, wash
and dry them. Now have ready, in a glass or stoneware vessel, 1 quart of
rain water, into which you have slowly added 4 oz. of best sulphuric
acid, and keep the proportions for any amount used. Immerse the files in
this preparation for from six to twelve hours, according to fineness or
coarseness of the files; then remove, wash them clean, dry quickly, and
put a little sweet oil on them to cover the surface. If the files are
coarse, they will need to remain in about twelve hours, but for fine
files six to eight hours is sufficient. This plan is applicable to
blacksmiths', gunsmiths', tinners', coppersmiths' and machinists' files.
Copper and tin workers will only require a short time to take the
articles out of their files, as the soft metals with which they become
filled are soon dissolved. Blacksmiths' and saw-mill files require full
time. Files may be recut three times by this process. The liquid may be
used at different times if required. Keep away from children, as it is
poisonous.
_Twist, Browning for Gun-Barrels._--Take spirits of nitre ¾ oz.;
tincture of steel, ¾ oz.: (if the tincture of steel cannot be obtained,
the unmedicated tincture of iron may be used, but it is not so good)
black brimstone, ¼ oz.; blue vitriol, ½ oz.; corrosive sublimate, ¼ oz.;
nitric acid, 1 dr. or 60 drops; copperas, ¼ oz.; mix with 1½ pts. of
rain water, keep corked, also, as the other, and the process of applying
is also the same.
_Gun Metal._--1. Melt together 112 lbs. of Bristol brass, 14 lbs. of
spelter, and 7 lbs. of block tin.--2. Melt together 9 parts of copper
and 1 part of tin; the above compounds are those used in the manufacture
of small and great brass guns, swivels, etc.
_Chinese Method of Mending Holes in Iron._--The Chinese mend holes in
cast-iron vessels as follows: They melt a small quantity of iron in a
crucible the size of a thimble, and pour the molten metal on a piece of
felt covered with wood-ashes. This is pressed inside the vessel against
the hole, and as it exudes on the other side it is struck by a small
roll of felt covered with ashes. The new iron then adheres to the old.
_Common Pewter._--Melt in a crucible 7 lbs. of tin, and when fused throw
in 1 lb. of lead, 6 oz. of copper and 2 oz. of zinc. This combination of
metal will form an alloy of great durability and tenacity; also of
considerable luster.
_Best Pewter._--The best sort of pewter consists of 100 parts of tin,
and 17 of regulus of antimony.
_Hard Pewter._--Melt together 12 lbs. of tin, 1 lb. of regulus of
antimony, and 4 oz. of copper.
_To Mend Broken Saws._--Pure silver, 19 parts: pure copper, 1 part: pure
brass, 2 parts; all are to be filed into powder and intimately mixed.
Place the saw level upon the anvil, the broken edges in close contact,
and hold them so: now put a small line of the mixture along the seam,
covering it with a large bulk of powdered charcoal; now with a spirit
lamp and a jeweler's blow-pipe, hold the coal-dust in place, and blow
sufficient to melt the solder mixture: then with a hammer set the joint
smooth, if not already so, and file away any superfluous solder; and you
will be surprised at its strength.
_Solder, to Adhere to Brass or Copper._--Prepare a soldering solution in
this way: Pour a small quantity of muriatic acid on some zinc filings,
so as to completely cover the zinc. Let it stand about an hour, and then
pour off the acid, to which add twice its amount of water. By first
wetting the brass or copper with this preparation, the solder will
readily adhere.
_Common Solder._--Put into a crucible 2 lbs. of lead, and when melted
throw in 1 lb. of tin. This alloy is that generally known by the name of
solder. When heated by a hot iron and applied to tinned iron with
powdered rosin, it acts as a cement or solder.
_Tempering Steel._--For tempering many kinds of tools, the steel is
first hardened by heating it to a cherry red, and plunging it into cold
water. Afterward the temper is drawn by moderately heating the steel
again. Different degrees of hardness are required for different
purposes, and the degree of heat for each of these, with the
corresponding color, will be found in the annexed table:
Very pale straw color, 430°--the temper required for lancets.
A shade of darker yellow, 450°--for razors and surgical instruments.
Darker straw-yellow, 470°--for penknives.
Still darker yellow, 490°--chisels for cutting iron.
A brown yellow, 500°--axes and plane-irons.
Yellow, slightly tinged with purple, 520°--table-knives and
watch-springs.
_Tempering Liquid._--1. To 6 quarts of soft water put in corrosive
sublimate, 1 oz.; common salt, 2 handfuls; when dissolved it is ready
for use. The first gives toughness to the steel, while the latter gives
the hardness. Be careful with this preparation, as it is a dangerous
poison.--2. Salt, ½ teacup; saltpetre, ½ oz.; alum, pulverized, 1
tea-spoon; soft water, 1 gallon; never heat over a cherry red, nor draw
any temper.--3. Saltpetre, sal-ammoniac, and alum, of each 2 oz.; salt,
1½ lbs.; water, 3 gallons, and draw no temper.--4. Saltpetre and alum,
each 2 oz.; sal-ammoniac, ½ oz.; salt, 1½ lbs.; soft water, 2 gallons.
Heat to a cherry red, and plunge in, drawing no temper.
_Bayberry, or Myrtle Soap._--Dissolve two and a quarter pounds of white
potash in five quarts of water, then mix it with ten pounds of myrtle
wax, or bayberry tallow. Boil the whole over a slow fire till it turns
to soap, then add a teacup of cold water; let it boil ten minutes
longer; at the end of that time turn it into tin molds or pans, and let
them remain a week or ten days to dry; then turn them out of the molds.
If you wish to have the soap scented, stir into it an essential oil
that has an agreeable smell, just before you turn it into the molds.
This kind of soap is excellent for shaving, and for chapped hands: it is
also good for eruptions on the face. It will be fit for use in the
course of three or four weeks after it is made, but it is better for
being kept ten or twelve months.
_Chemical Soap_, (for taking Oil, Grease, etc., from Cloth).--Take five
pounds castile soap, cut fine; one pint alcohol; one pint soft water;
two ounces aquafortis; one and a half ounces lampblack; two ounces of
saltpetre; three ounces potash; one ounce of camphor; and four ounces of
cinnamon, in powder. First dissolve the soap, potash and saltpetre, by
boiling; then add all the other articles, and continue to stir until it
cools; then pour into a box and let it stand twenty-four hours and cut
into cakes.
_Cold Soap._--Mix twenty-six pounds of melted and strained grease with
four pailfuls of ley, made of twenty pounds of white potash. Let the
whole stand in the sun, stirring it frequently. In the course of the
week, fill the barrel with weak ley.
_Genuine Erasive Soap._--Two pounds of good castile soap; half a pound
of carbonate of potash; dissolve in half a pint of hot water. Cut the
soap in thin slices, and boil the soap with the potash until it is thick
enough to mould in cakes; also add alcohol, half an ounce; camphor, half
an ounce; hartshorn, half an ounce; color with half an ounce of
pulverized charcoal.
_Hard White Soap._--To fifteen pounds of lard or suet, made boiling hot,
add slowly six gallons of hot ley, or solution of potash, that will bear
up an egg high enough to leave a piece big as a shilling bare. Take out
a little, and cool it. If no grease rise it is done. If any grease
appears, add ley, and boil till no grease rises. Add three quarts of
fine salt, and boil up again. If this does not harden well on cooling,
add more salt. If it is to be perfumed, melt it next day, add the
perfume, and run it in molds or cut in cakes.
_Labor-Saving Soap._--Take two pounds of sal-soda, two pounds of yellow
bar soap, and ten quarts of water. Cut the soap in thin slices, and boil
together for two hours; strain, and it will be fit for use. Put the
clothes in soak the night before you wash, and to every pail of water in
which you boil them, add a pound of soap. They will need no rubbing;
merely rinse them out, and they will be perfectly clean and white.
_To Make Good Soap._--To make matchless soap, take one gallon of soft
soap, to which add a gill of common salt, and boil an hour. When cold,
separate the ley from the crude. Add to the crude two pounds of
sal-soda, and boil in two gallons of soft water till dissolved. If you
wish it better, slice two pounds of common bar soap and dissolve in the
above. If the soft soap makes more than three pounds of crude, add in
proportion to the sal-soda and water.
_To Make Hard Soap from Soft._--Take seven pounds of good soft soap;
four pounds sal-soda; two ounces borax; one ounce hartshorn; half a
pound of resin; to be dissolved in twenty-two quarts of water, and
boiled about twenty minutes.
_Whale Oil Soap_ (for the destruction of Insects.)--Render common ley
caustic, by boiling it at full strength on quicklime; then take the ley
and boil it with as much whale oil foot as it will saponify (change to
soap), pour off into molds, and, when cold, it is tolerably hard. Whale
oil foot is the sediment produced in refining whale oil, and is worth
two dollars per barrel.
_Soluble Glass._--Mix ten parts of carbonate of potash, fifteen parts of
powdered quartz, and one pound of charcoal. Fuse well together. The mass
is soluble in four or five parts of boiling water, and the filtered
solution, evaporated to dryness, yields a transparent glass, permanent
in the air.
_To Make Eggs of Pharaoh's Serpents._--Take mercury and dissolve it in
moderately diluted nitric acid by means of heat, taking care, however,
that there be always an excess of metallic mercury remaining; decant the
solution and pour it into a solution of sulpho-cyanide of ammonium or
potassium, which may be bought at a good drug store, or of a dealer in
chemicals. Equal weights of both will answer. A precipitate will fall to
the bottom of the beaker or jar, which is to be collected on a filter
and washed two or three times with water, when it is put in a warm place
to dry. Take for every pound of this material one ounce of gum
tragacanth which has been soaked in hot water. When the gum is
completely softened it is to be transferred to a mortar, and the
pulverized and dried precipitate gradually mixed with it by means of a
little water, so as to present a somewhat dry pill mass, from which by
hand pellets of the desired size are formed, put on a piece of glass,
and dried again; they are then ready for use.
_Tracing Paper._--In order to prepare a beautiful transparent, colorless
paper, it is best to employ the varnish formed with Demarara resin in
the following way: The sheets intended for this purpose are laid flat on
each other, and the varnish spread over the uppermost sheet with a
brush, until the paper appears perfectly colorless, without, however,
the liquid thereon being visible. The first sheet is then removed, hung
up for drying, and the second treated in the same manner. After being
dried, this paper is capable of being written on, either with chalk or
pencil, or steel pens. It preserves its colorless transparency without
becoming yellow, as is frequently the case with that prepared in any
other way.
_Unsurpassable Blacking._--Put one gallon of vinegar into a stone jug,
and one pound of ivory-black well pulverized, half a pound of loaf
sugar, half an ounce of oil of vitriol, and seven ounces of sweet oil.
Incorporate the whole by stirring.
2. Take twelve ounces each of ivory-black and molasses; spermaceti oil,
four ounces; and white wine vinegar, two quarts. Mix thoroughly. This
contains no vitriol, and therefore will not injure the leather. The
trouble of making it is very little, and it would be well to prepare it
for one's self, were it only to be assured that it is not injurious.
_Varnish for Iron Work._--To make a good black varnish for iron work,
take eight pounds of asphaltum and fuse it in an iron kettle; then add
five gallons of boiled linseed oil, one pound of litharge, half a pound
of sulphate of zinc (add these slowly, or it will fume over), and boil
them for about three hours. Now add one and a half pounds of dark gum
amber, and boil for two hours longer, or until the mass will become
quite thick when cool, after which it should be thinned with turpentine
to due consistency.