occupy a conspicuous station, and perform a dance round the circle,
slowly, and in the most graceful native style, striking at the same
time the hollow of his left arm with his right hand, in time with the
music of their voices. This distinction was always conferred upon
some one who had obtained an old jacket or tattered shirt. If he had
on a jacket, it was sure to be buttoned closely round him, with the
two or three remaining buttons, and the sleeves, if not torn off,
would probably not reach more than half the length of his arms. Thus
attired, he would perform his evolutions round the circle slowly, and
with a most serious air, stopping occasionally to receive the
applause of the singers, who bestowed it upon him with great
enthusiasm. Soon after daylight, one morning I was on the beach, and
my curiosity led me to a place, where a number of females were busily
employed in collecting something from the rocks. When I approached
them they discontinued their occupation, and would have fled, but I
called them back, and prevailed upon them to renew their occupation.
Each of them was provided with a green leaf, in which she was
gathering from the rocks a species of fine green sea moss and small
snails. What they preserved in the leaf was intended for their
families at home. They ate freely of them, and said it was "motake."
The moss was tender, but to me had no other taste than that of salt
water, with which it was covered at high tide. The snails were not
larger than a pea, covered with a hard shell, and when broken, heated
the tongue like pepper. The moss, when gathered, had a most
disgusting appearance. I was told by the Englishmen, residing here,
that the natives esteem it a very great delicacy. One of the females
had an infant with her a few months old, which she was teaching to
swim by holding it in a pool of water, and occasionally letting it
go. The infant would make a slight effort, when let go by the
mother, and, no doubt, was taught to swim almost as soon as it could
walk. On the third of October, in walking through the habitable part
of the valley, I was every where met by females, who addressed me
with a smile, and finely modulated tone of voice, "Coare ta
whyhene?"[6] The father of one of these, good naturedly conducted me
to the hut of a chief, highest in blood of any in the valley. He was
a man upwards of fifty, and apparently more civilized than any of the
natives I had seen before. He told the interpreter to say, that he
felt pleasure in seeing me at his hut. It was about forty by twenty
feet, and constructed in the same way as that occupied by the Happah
chief, differing in no respect from those of the common people,
except in dimensions. His rank and importance was displayed in the
possession of six muskets, and two casks of powder that hung directly
fronting the door, and which the chief took occasion to point out to
me soon after I entered. To him they were a treasure, and, in fact,
the wealth and consequence of every individual seemed to be estimated
by this standard alone. The powder was covered over with canvass,
and the muskets highly polished. On one side of the hut were two
logs, about three feet apart, and between them a coarse mat, for the
convenience of laying down on, one log being intended for the head,
and the other for the feet. Whilst I was here, a number of visitors
came in, and, walking directly to the logs, without noticing any one,
threw themselves down between them, their heads on one, and feet on
the other, where they lay, fanning themselves, and looking at us,
without saying a word, except once or twice, when they saw me looking
at them, I was saluted with "motake." In the middle of the hut was
the coffin of the chief's father, who had died about six months
previous. It was the trunk of a large bread-fruit tree, six or eight
feet long, highly polished, and the lid so ingeniously fitted, that
the place of contact could not be seen but by the closest
examination. He told me that his father had been a great warrior,
and the friend of Opotee.[7] Before his door was a swivel, and a
number of shot, that he said he had obtained from Opotee. He prized
them very highly, although they could not be of the least use to him,
except as they served to gratify his vanity. When I expressed a
desire to know the manner in which they prepared the paint, used by
the females, he directed his son to get some of the root, and grind
it between two stones, mixing a little water with it, the only
process required. I gave the chief's wife (who was an old woman)
some beads, and a cotton handkerchief, with which she was so
delighted, that she threw both her arms around my neck, and embraced
me most affectionately. She was painted all over, quite yellow, and
so thoroughly smeared my clothes, that I paid dearly for this
expression of her regard. At parting, the chief presented me with a
hog (the only one we obtained at the Marquesas), some sticks of the
tappa tree, and offered whatever was acceptable to me, about his
house. We also exchanged names, and I promised again to visit him,
but had no opportunity afterwards. His son accompanied me on board,
carrying the presents his father had made me, and all the way calling
me "Kappe," the name of his father, and himself, by my name.
In the evening, when I returned to the vessel, she was crowded with
natives, the work of the day being completed. The men and women were
in different circles, singing their songs. That of the women,
resembled the croaking of a great many frogs. The quick and lively
motion of their hands, accompanying the various modulations of the
voice, exhibited a great activity, and command of muscle, and was far
more pleasing than their music. There was one amongst the females,
who possessed great powers of voice, in the utterance of strange
sounds, in which none of the rest could accompany her. The
performance seemed to distress her very much, and was certainly very
disagreeable; yet the natives would all stop occasionally, to listen
to her, and, when she was done, exclaimed, with seeming surprise,
"motake!"
On the 4th of October, I took a boat, prepared with arms, and
providing myself with a few presents, ran down for Lewis' Bay, to
ascertain the depth of water at the entrance of the harbour, what
difficulties might probably attend our running in with the schooner,
and whether it afforded any better prospect than the other places we
had visited, of obtaining a supply of hogs. The distance was only
six miles, and, with a fine breeze, we were at the entrance of the
harbour in little more than an hour. It was very narrow, formed by
two high points of land, and the depth of water abundantly sufficient
for ships of the largest class. A heavy and broken swell made the
entrance appear difficult: and, without a fair wind, it is so
confined, that it would be hazardous to attempt it; but the gorge
being once passed, you enter a large smooth basin, where there is
scarcely a ripple, the land rising high all around it, and the points
locking with each other. In the basin we found good anchorage, in
from four to nine fathoms water, and a clay bottom. Lewis' Bay is
divided into two parts by a projecting point of rocks. I first
landed in that which fronts the entrance, or rather went into the
edge of the surf. A great many people, of all ages, came swimming
off through the surf, and in a few moments the boat was full of them,
and of fruit of various kinds. They were anxious for me to land, but
I saw there would be great difficulty in my getting off again, in the
event of any misunderstanding with them, which was not altogether
impossible. I did not remain long, but, dismissing the natives who
had crawled into the boat, or were hanging on the gunwale, pulled
round the point of rocks to the other landing. When first I went
into this part of the harbour, I could perceive only two or three
persons, who were afraid to come near us. They gradually relaxed in
their timidity, however, and kept nearing us a little, until we at
last prevailed upon them to get into the boat. As soon as they saw
our muskets, which they thought were intended for trade; but which
were only for our protection, they ran away, saying, they would bring
us hogs directly. In the mean time the news of our arrival spread,
far and wide, over the valley, and the people came running from every
direction, with whatever they could most readily possess themselves
of, for trade. Every body wanted muskets, and a chief had seven or
eight hogs brought to the beach, all of which he offered for one gun.
After spending an hour or two here, on the most friendly terms with
the natives, I prepared to depart, and missed one of my shoes, that I
had thrown off wet. Search was made in the boat, without finding it,
when it was remarked, that a native had been seen crawling in the
water for a considerable distance to a rock near the shore, where he
deposited something, and returned. Upon examination, we found the
shoe wrapped up in a piece of tappa cloth, the Indian having stolen
it, without reflecting that the possession of one shoe, without the
other, was of no value to him, or perhaps not caring whether it was
or not, so that he gratified his propensity to steal. When I
returned a short distance, and held the shoe up to show the natives
that I had recovered it, they set up a loud laugh, which I
interpreted into applause, of the ingenious exploit of their
countryman. The valley of Lewis' Bay is not to be compared to either
of the other places we visited on the island, for beauty or
fertility. It is, however, quite populous, and the scenery is grand
and picturesque. The land gradually rises from a small plain below,
like the valley occupied by the Typees, in a succession of hills, and
terminates in a perpendicular high ledge of rocks. In returning from
Lewis' to Massachusetts' Bay, the wind was ahead, and we pulled close
in with the shore, which, for nearly the whole distance, rises
abruptly, from the ocean, to the height of six or seven hundred feet.
Numerous falls, which were only perceptible in heavy mist, before
they reached the water, were leaping from the top, whilst the sea
beat the sides with unceasing fury, throwing its spray to the height
of more than a hundred feet. Whilst we were tugging at our oars,
contemplating this magnificent scene, the sea suddenly became
unusually agitated, and threatened, at every instant, to swallow up
the boat. We pulled directly from the shore, and for half an hour
our situation was very critical, after which the sea became regular.
A phenomenon, so remarkable, baffled all our speculation, and we were
entirely at a loss to determine respecting its cause. On our arrival
on board, we learned that the vessel had narrowly escaped being
driven on shore in a squall It was not the fault of the anchorage,
but in consequence of the baffling winds which had several times
driven the vessel over her anchor, whereby it was fouled by the
cable, and tripped with the violence of the squall.
The natives, as usual, were assembled on the shore near us, amusing
themselves in their customary way, by singing and dancing. The
females, having learned from some of the Dolphin's crew, that it was
not in good taste to use cocoa-nut oil, and paint, in such profusion,
left it off, as well as the golden yellow fruit, which had also been
highly disapproved of. It improved their appearance, and they seemed
to be sensible of the superior estimation in which they were held.
These wild ladies, in truth, who, on our first arrival, came swimming
round, like so many mermaids, grew very fastidious in the short time
we remained at their island. After the first day or two, they
requested to be allowed to go on board, in our boats, and then,
seeing some of the officers carried through the surf by the seamen,
nothing less would please them, when they did us the honour of a
visit, but to be gallanted on board with the same ceremony. Our
sailors gallantly condescended to gratify two or three of them; but,
instead of taking them to the boat, they most uncourteously let them
fall into the first heavy roller they encountered, leaving them to
the choice of swimming to the boat, or back to the shore again, after
which none ever asked to be carried. With regard to their
superstitions or worship, we could learn but little. John Luxon told
me, that he was tabooed by his father, who was a chief, and that no
common man dared to pass over his head. He was usually dressed in a
sailor's shirt and trowsers, and an old hat. He came off regularly
every morning, and ate with us three time a day, taking his seat at
the table, without the least ceremony, and never waiting to be asked.
One day, some one had, designedly or accidentally, thrown some bread
in John's hat, which he did not perceive when he took it up, and put
it on. When he felt the bread upon his head, he threw his hat off
instantly, and, with a look of the utmost horror, exclaimed, "who put
dat dare? Me Taboo here!" (putting his hand on his head) "To-morrow
me sick, me die!" This, he repeated over a number of times, and with
great earnestness of manner tried to find out who had put the bread
in his hat, insisting upon it, that, on the morrow, he should sicken
and die. The morrow, however, came, and John was alive and well, and
was heartily laughed at for his foolish superstition, when he came on
board as usual to spend the day with us. I do not believe that John
had the same implicit faith in taboo afterwards. I tried to find out
from him what was meant by his being tabooed, but he spoke English so
badly, and seemed to understand so little of the matter himself, that
I was not much the wiser for his explanation. We were told here,
that, a few years since, the missionaries at the Society Islands,
moved by the benevolent purpose of converting the Marquesas islanders
to Christianity, sent one of their number to reside at Massachusetts'
Bay. The missionary landed amongst his charge, by whom he was
received with characteristic kindness and hospitality. No other
notice was taken of him, however, than would have been bestowed upon
the most poor and ignorant mariner, seeking an asylum amongst them.
He was permitted to fix upon his place of residence, and live in such
way as pleased him best. He soon commenced preaching the doctrines
of his faith. The natives listened to him, wondering at all he said,
but not less at his singular manner of life,--to them unexampled, in
all their acquaintance with the whites,--and, certainly, unparalleled
amongst themselves. They had always seen the white men, who visited
their islands, take liberties with their females, and mingle with
them in all their pleasures, whilst this man, who called himself a
messenger from the Great Spirit, lived a life of celibacy, retired
from all that, to them, was amusing or agreeable. When a free
interchange of opinion had taken place amongst them, respecting him,
they came to the conclusion, that he was differently made and
constituted from all other men they had ever seen, and curiosity
being raised to the highest pitch, they, with a levity peculiar to
savages, determined to subject him to a scrutiny. The missionary,
alarmed at a disposition that evinced so little respect for his
character and personal rights, took his departure by the first
opportunity, since which no attempt has been made to convert the
natives of the Marquesas to Christianity.
The men of the Marquesas, were, in general, quite naked. But few
ornaments were worn by either sex. The women frequently had no other
ornament than a small flower, stuck through a slit in their ears.
Some of the men wore polished whale's teeth round their necks, and
some shell bracelets, but they were not in common use. A few were
tattooed all over, and others but slightly. The mode of their
tattooing seemed to be altogether a matter of fancy. Some had
indulged the most whimsical taste, in having indelibly pricked into
their flesh, fish, birds, and beasts, of all kinds known to them.
Others were tattooed black, even to the inner part of their lips. It
is an art in high estimation amongst them. There are men, who pursue
it as a regular business, and are in great favour with their
countrymen, for their skilful performance. The women tattoo more
tastefully than the men. Their feet and legs, half-way to the knee,
are usually covered with figures, wrought with great neatness, and
the right hand and arm, half-way to the elbow, is often similarly
ornamented. Both men and women commonly wear their hair short, and
when instances to the contrary are met with, the persons invariably
have a disgusting appearance, their hair hanging in long and
disagreeable looking matted locks.
The men are finely formed, large, and active; and both men and women
would, in many instances, be considered handsome, were it not for our
fastidious objection to their copper colour. Their teeth are very
beautiful, and formed a subject of remark to us all, while we were
amongst them. I do not think that, of all the people that came under
my observation at Nooaheeva, there was a single one with bad teeth.
This is the more remarkable in the men, as they are accustomed all
their lives to strip the husk of the cocoa-nut in the manner I have
described.
A plurality of wives is not admitted amongst them under any
circumstances. The sexes rarely live together, as man and wife,
until they have arrived at the middle age of life. When a man wishes
to take a wife, he first obtains the consent of the female, who
solicits that of her friends, which, being obtained, the girl's
father kills a hog, or, if a chief, a number of hogs, and makes a
feast, to which all the friends of both parties are invited. After
this ceremonial is performed, which is an occasion of great
merriment, the parents of the girl furnish her with a few pieces of
tappa cloth, and she is conducted by her husband to his house. The
females, although invited to these feasts, are not permitted to
partake of the hogs, roasted for the occasion. They are tabooed for
the men alone. Hogs are scarcely ever used by the natives, but upon
the occasion of a death or marriage. When a chief, or other person
dies, possessing many hogs, a great feast is made. The only arms,
that are now generally used, are muskets. Most of the natives, who
have any property, own one or more. I did not see a single war club
at Nooaheeva, and but few spears. I met several persons, who had the
scars of musket balls, that they told me were received in battle.
Each of the renegade Englishmen was living with a chief, who thought
there was scarcely any thing that he could not perform. Besides
supporting them, they gave them all the consequence of chiefs in
their intercourse with the natives, so far as their own authority
would admit of it. They were highly respected by the natives, and
even John Luxon boasted to me of his superiority over the other
Indians, in speaking English. I asked John, of what advantage his
speaking English was to him, to which he replied, that it enabled him
to cheat his countrymen.
The whole face of the island of Nooaheeva is high and mountainous.
Every part I visited is composed of volcanic cinders, and evidently
owes its origin to some great convulsion of nature. Whilst we
remained at Massachusetts' Bay, the weather was mild and pleasant.
We had several heavy showers, which, in one instance, only was
accompanied with a squall of wind. After these showers it was
delightful to contemplate the beauty of the innumerable little
cascades of water every where falling over the rocks from the tops of
the mountains. In a few hours, many of them would become less
brilliant, and some would quite disappear. We found the longitude of
our anchorage by the mean of three chronometers, to be one hundred
and thirty-nine degrees fifty-four minutes and thirty seconds west;
latitude, by a series of observations, eight degrees fifty-seven
minutes forty-five seconds south.
October the 5th, we got under way, and stood out with a light and
baffling wind, tacking very close in with both shores. At nine,
A.M., we passed the Sentinels, and bore up to the westward with a
moderate breeze from E.S.E. The islands Rooahooga and Rooapooa, were
plainly in sight. In clear weather they may be seen at least fifty
miles. The amiable character of the inhabitants of Nooaheeva, and
the friendly disposition they had evinced towards us upon all
occasions, made us feel regret at leaving them so soon. The course
that now lay before us, carried us away from all the civilized world;
and the islands in our way affording but little to tempt navigators
to visit them, were known to us only as places, existing on the wide
surface of the ocean, where, with few exceptions, the inhabitants had
never seen the face of a white man. We could anticipate no other
gratification from our contemplated visit to them, than the
indulgence of our curiosity. The weather became squally after our
departure from the Marquesas, and continued so for several days,
during which time we were frequently deceived by the clouds assuming
the strongest appearance of land, for which we steered two or three
times, under a full conviction that we had made a discovery. We
could picture to ourselves, the mountains, and valleys, and bays,
and, to confirm the deception, we frequently saw land birds flying
about us.
At day-light, on the 10th of October, we discovered Caroline Island,
bearing W.S.W., and distant fourteen miles. We were on the weather
side of it, and a furious surf was every where in sight, breaking
upon a reef some distance from the shore. We stood along to the
westward, and at nine, A.M., passed a reef, that makes out from the
N.W. end of the island, protecting it to the S.W. from the heavy
easterly swell, and prevailing winds. Under the lee of the reef, we
stood in, with the hope of finding anchorage, getting frequent casts
of the lead, until, to our great disappointment, it was discovered
that there was deep sea-water within a few feet of a bed of coral,
that stretched off three or four hundred yards from the shore,
farther to the south and west, a high surf was breaking, and this
being the only place where we could land, and, desirous of exploring
the island, we took a small kedge to the coral bank, by which we rode
to the easterly trade winds. Here we landed without much difficulty,
and made our way to the shore, over the coral, although it was full
of holes, and looked as though it would give way under our feet. The
holes in the coral-bed were from one to three feet deep, and some of
them had the appearance of communicating with the ocean. In these
holes, we found an abundance of large and very fine fish, with which
we supplied the crew in great plenty. They were of several different
kinds, the best of which were the red grouper, and a long fish, of a
dark colour, for which we had no name. Boarding pikes and boat-hooks
were the only instruments we used for taking them, and by this simple
apparatus alone a frigate's crew might have been supplied in a short
time. A boat was also sent to fish alongside of the coral bank,
where were myriads of red grouper, of a large size; but the sharks
were so numerous, that, for every fish, we lost two or three hooks.