When we came into the air we found a bitter frost; the whole sky

clouded over; a north wind whirling snow from alp and forest through

the murky gloom. The benches and broad walnut tables of the Rathhaus

were crowded with men in shaggy homespun of brown and grey frieze.

Its low wooden roof and walls enclosed an atmosphere of smoke, denser

than the eternal snow-drift. But our welcome was hearty, and we found

a score of friends. Titanic Fopp, whose limbs are Michelangelesque

in length; spectacled Morosani; the little tailor Kramer, with a

French horn on his knees; the puckered forehead of the Baumeister; the

Troll-shaped postman; peasants and woodmen, known on far excursions

upon pass and upland valley. Not one but carried on his face the memory

of winter strife with avalanche and snow-drift, of horses struggling

through Fluela whirlwinds, and wine-casks tugged across Bernina, and

haystacks guided down precipitous gullies at thundering speed 'twixt

pine and pine, and larches felled in distant glens beside the frozen

watercourses. Here we were, all met together for one hour from our

several homes and occupations, to welcome in the year with clinked

glasses and cries of Prosit Neujahr!

The tolling bells above us stopped. Our turn had come. Out into the

snowy air we tumbled, beneath the row of wolves' heads that adorn

the pent-house roof. A few steps brought us to the still God's acre,

where the snow lay deep and cold upon high-mounded graves of many

generations. We crossed it silently, bent our heads to the low Gothic

arch, and stood within the tower. It was thick darkness there. But far

above, the bells began again to clash and jangle confusedly, with

volleys of demoniac joy. Successive flights of ladders, each ending in

a giddy platform hung across the gloom, climb to the height of some

hundred and fifty feet; and all their rungs were crusted with frozen

snow, deposited by trampling boots. For up and down these stairs,

ascending and descending, moved other than angels--the frieze-jacketed

Burschen, Grisens bears, rejoicing in their exercise, exhilarated with

the tingling noise of beaten metal. We reached the first room safely,

guided by firm-footed Christian, whose one candle just defined the

rough walls and the slippery steps. There we found a band of boys

pulling ropes that set the bells in motion. But our destination was not

reached. One more aerial ladder, perpendicular in darkness, brought

us swiftly to the home of sound. It is a small square chamber, where

the bells are hung, filled with the interlacement of enormous beams,

and pierced to north and south by open windows, from whose parapets I

saw the village and the valley spread beneath. The fierce wind hurried

through it, charged with snow, and its narrow space thronged with

men. Men on the platform, men on the window-sills, men grappling the

bells with iron arms, men brushing by to reach the stairs, crossing,

re-crossing, shouldering their mates, drinking red wine from gigantic

beakers, exploding crackers, firing squibs, shouting and yelling in

corybantic chorus. They yelled and shouted, one could see it by their

open mouths and glittering eyes; but not a sound from human lungs

could reach our ears. The overwhelming incessant thunder of the bells

drowned all. It thrilled the tympanum, ran through the marrow of

the spine, vibrated in the inmost entrails. Yet the brain was only

steadied and excited by this sea of brazen noise. After a few moments

I knew the place and felt at home in it. Then I enjoyed a spectacle

which sculptors might have envied. For they ring the bells in Davos

after this fashon:--The lads below set them going with ropes. The

men above climb in pairs on ladders to the beams from which they are

suspended. Two mighty pine-trees, roughly squared and built into the

walls, extend from side to side across the belfry. Another, from which

the bells hang, connects these massive trunks at right angles. Just

where the central beam is wedged into the two parallel supports, the

ladders reach from each side of the belfry, so that, bending from the

higher rung of the ladder, and leaning over, stayed upon the lateral

beam, each pair of men can keep one bell in movement with their hands.

Each comrade plants one leg upon the ladder, and sets the other knee

firmly athwart the horizontal pine. Then round each other's waist they

twine left arm and right. The two have thus become one man. Right arm

and left are free to grasp the bell's horns, sprouting at its crest

beneath the beam. With a grave rhythmic motion, bending sideward in a

close embrace, swaying and returning to their centre from the well-knit

loins, they drive the force of each strong muscle into the vexed bell.

The impact is earnest at first, but soon it becomes frantic. The men

take something from each other of exalted enthusiasm. This efflux

of their combined energies inspires them and exasperates the mighty

resonance of metal which they rule. They are lost in a trance of what

approximates to dervish passion--so thrilling is the surge of sound, so

potent are the rhythms they obey. Men come and tug them by the heels.

One grasps the starting thews upon their calves. Another is impatient

for their place. But they strain still, locked together, and forgetful

of the world. At length, they have enough: then slowly, clingingly,

unclasp, turn round with gazing eyes, and are resumed, sedately, into

the diurnal round of common life. Another pair is in their room upon

the beam.

The Englishman who saw those things stood looking up, enveloped in his

ulster with the grey cowl thrust upon his forehead, like a monk. One

candle cast a grotesque shadow of him on the plastered wall. And when

his chance came, though he was but a weakling, he too climbed and for

some moments hugged the beam, and felt the madness of the swinging

bell. Descending, he wondered long and strangely whether he ascribed

too much of feeling to the men he watched. But no, that was impossible.

There are emotions deeply seated in the joy of exercise, when the body

is brought into play, and masses move in concert, of which the subject

is but half conscious. Music and dance, and the delirium of the battle

or the chase, act thus upon spontaneous natures. The mystery of rhythm

and associated energy and blood tingling in sympathy is here. It lies

at the root of man's most tyrannous instinctive impulses.

It was past one when we reached home, and now a meditative man might

well have gone to bed. But no one thinks of sleeping on Sylvester

Abend. So there followed bowls of punch in one friend's room, where

English, French, and German blent together in convivial Babel; and

flasks of old Montagner in another. Palmy, at this period, wore an

archdeacon's hat, and smoked a church-warden's pipe; and neither

were his own, nor did he derive anything ecclesiastical or Anglican

from the association. Late in the morning we must sally forth, they

said, and roam the town. For it is the custom here on New Year's

night to greet acquaintances, and ask for hospitality, and no one may

deny these self-invited guests. We turned out again into the grey

snow-swept gloom, a curious Comus--not at all like Greeks, for we had

neither torches in our hands nor rose-wreaths to suspend upon a lady's

door-posts....

However, upon this occasion, though we had winter wind enough, and cold

enough, there was not much love in the business. My arm was firmly

clenched in Christian Buol's, and Christian Palmy came behind, trolling

out songs in Italian dialect, with still recurring canaille choruses,

of which the facile rhymes seemed mostly made on a prolonged amu-u-u-r.

It is noticeable that Italian ditties are especially designed for

fellows shouting in the streets at night.... The tall church-tower and

spire loomed up above us in grey twilight. The tireless wind still

swept thin snow from fell and forest. But the frenzied bells had sunk

into their twelve-month's slumber, which shall be broken only by

decorous tollings at less festive times. I wondered whether they were

tingling still with the heart-throbs and with the pressure of those

many arms? Was their old age warmed, as mine was, with that gust of

life--the young men who had clung to them like bees to lily-bells, and

shaken all their locked-up tone and shrillness into the wild winter

air? Alas! how many generations of the young have handled them; and

they are still there, frozen in their belfry; and the young grow

middle-aged, and old, and die at last; and the bells they grappled in

their lust of manhood toll them to their graves, on which the tireless

wind will, winter after winter, sprinkle snow from alps and forests

which they knew.

JOHN ADDINGTON SYMONDS

XI

TWELFTH NIGHT

[Illustration: TWELFTH NIGHT]

"Now have Good Day!"

A Twelfth Night Superstition

Twelfth-Day Table Diversion

The Blessing of the Waters

La Galette du Roi

Drawing King and Queen on Twelfth Night

St. Distaff's Day and Plough Monday

[Illustration]

Down with the rosemary and bays,

Down with the mistletoe;

Instead of holly, now up-raise

The greener box, for show.

The holly hitherto did sway;

Let box now domineer,

Until the dancing Easter-day,

On Easter's Eve appear.

ROBERT HERRICK

Now have Good Day

_Now have good day, now have good day!

I am Christmas, and now I go my way!_

Here have I dwelt with more and less,

From Hallow-tide till Candlemas!

And now must I from you hence pass,

_Now have good day!_

I take my leave of King and Knight,

And Earl, Baron, and lady bright!

To wilderness I must me dight!

_Now have good day!_

And at the good lord of this hall,

I take my leave, and of guests all!

Methinks I hear Lent doth call,

_Now have good day!_

And at every worthy officer,

Marshall, painter, and butler,

I take my leave as for this year,

_Now have good day!_

Another year I trust I shall

Make merry in this hall!

If rest and peace in England may fall!

_Now have good day!_

But often times I have heard say,

That he is loth to part away,

That often biddeth "have good day!"

_Now have good day!_

Now fare ye well all in-fere!

Now fare ye well for all this year,

Yet for my sake make ye good cheer!

_Now have good day!_

_From a Balliol MS. of c. 1540_

A Twelfth Night Superstition

Twice six nights then from Christmasse, they do count with diligence,

Where in eche maister in his house doth burne by franckensence:

And on the table settes a loafe, when night approcheth nere,

Before the coles and franckensence to be perfumed there:

First bowing down his heade he standes, and nose and eares and eyes

He smokes, and with hos mouth receyves the fume that doth arise

Whom followeth streight his wife, and doth the same full solemly,

And of their children every one and all their family;

Which doth preserve they say their teeth and nose and eye and eare

From every kind of maladie, and sicknesse all the yeare.

When every one receyued hath this odour great and small

Then one takes up the pan with coales, and franckensence and all

An other takes the loafe, whom all the rest do follow here.

And round about the house they go with torch or taper clere,

That neither bread nor meat do want, nor witch with dreadful charme

Have power to hurt their children or to do their cattell harme

There are that three nightes only do perfoure this foolish geare

To this intent, and thinke themselves in safetie all the yeare.

BARNABY GOOGE'S versification of _The Popish Kingdome_

Twelfth-Day Table Diversion

John Nott, describing himself as "late cook to the dukes of Somerset,

Ormond, and Batton," writes in 1726: "Ancient artists in cookery inform

us that in former days, when good housekeeping was in fashion amongst

the English nobility, they used either to begin or conclude their

entertainments, and divert their guests with such pretty devices as

these following, viz:--

A castle made of pasteboard, with gates, drawbridges, battlements and

portcullises, all done over with paste, was set upon a table in a

large charger, with salt laid round about it, as if it were the ground

in which were stuck egg-shells full of rose or other sweet waters,

the meat of the egg having been taken out by a great pin. Upon the

battlement of the castle were planted Kexes covered over with paste, in

the form of cannons, and made to look like brass by covering them with

dutch leaf-gold. These cannons being charged with gunpowder, and trains

laid so that you might fire as many as you pleased, at one touch; this

castle was set at one end of the table.

Then in the middle of the table, they would set a stag made of paste,

but hollow, and filled with claret wine, and a broad arrow stuck in his

side; this was also set in a large charger, with a ground made of salt

with egg-shells of perfumed waters stuck in it as before.

Then at the other end of the table, they would have a ship made of

pasteboard, and covered all over with paste, with masts, sails, flags,

and streamers; and guns made of Kexes, covered with paste and charged

with gunpowder, with a train, as in the castle. This being placed in

a large charger was set upright in as it were a sea of salt, in which

were also stuck egg-shells full of perfumed waters. Then betwixt the

stag and castle, and the stag and ship, were placed two pies made of

coarse paste, filled with bran, and washed over with saffron and the

yolks of eggs; when these were baked the bran was taken out, a hole

was cut in the bottom of each, and live birds put into one and frogs

into the other. Then the holes were closed up with paste, and the lids

neatly cut up, so that they might be easily taken off by the funnels,

and adorned with gilded laurels.

These being thus prepared, and placed in order on the table, one of the

ladies was persuaded to draw the arrow out of the body of the stag,

which being done the claret wine issued forth like blood from a wound

and caused admiration in the spectators; which being over, after a

little pause, all the guns on one side of the castle were by a train

discharged against the ship; and afterwards the guns of one side of

the ship were discharged against the castle; then, having turned the

chargers, the other sides were fired off as in a battle. This causing a

great smell of powder, the ladies or gentlemen took up the eggshells

of perfumed water and threw them at one another. This pleasant disorder

being pretty well laughed over, and the two great pies still remaining

untouched, some one or other would have the curiosity to see what was

in them and on lifting up the lid of one pie, out would jump the

frogs, which would make the ladies skip and scamper; and on lifting up

the lid of the other out would fly the birds, which would naturally

fly at the light and so put out the candles. And so with the leaping

of the frogs below, and the flying of the birds above, would cause a

surprising and diverting hurley burley among the guests, in the dark.

After which the candles being lighted, the banquet would be brought

in, the music sound, and the particulars of each person's surprise and

adventures furnish matter for diverting discourse.

_The Cook and Confectioner's Dictionary_, 1726

The Blessing of the Waters

I was anxious to be present at the early liturgy of the morning of

Epiphany to witness the ceremony of the blessing of the waters in the

pretty quaint village on the island of Skiathos in a far-away corner

of Greece. It was a great effort, for the night had been cold and

stormy; however, by some process which will never be quite clear to

me, I managed to find myself at the door of the one church with its

many storied bell-tower, soon after four o'clock. Very quaint indeed it

looked as I went out of the cold darkness into the brilliantly lighted

church, and saw the pious islanders kneeling all around on the cold

floor as the liturgy was being chanted prior to the blessing of the

waters. Near the entrance stood the font filled to the brim; and close

to it was placed an eikon or sacred picture, representing the baptism

of our Lord; around the font were stuck many candles fastened by their

own grease; whilst pots and jugs of every size and description, full

of water, stood about on the floor in the immediate vicinity of the

font.

After the priest had chanted the somewhat tedious litany from the steps

of the high altar, he set off dressed sumptuously in his gold brocaded

vestments, round the church with a large cross in one hand, and a sprig

of basil in the other, accompanied by two acolytes, who waved their

censers and cast about a pleasant odor of frankincense. Every one was

prostrate as the priest read the appointed Scripture, signed the water

in the font and in the adjacent jugs with the cross and threw into the

font his sprig of basil. No sooner was this solemn impressive ceremony

over than there was a general rush from all sides with mugs and bottles

to secure some of this consecrated water. Everybody laughed and hustled

his neighbor; even the priest, with the cross in his hand, stood

and watched them with a grin. The sudden change from the preceding

solemnity was ludicrous in the extreme.

Before taking his departure for his home each person went up to kiss

the cross which the priest held and to be sprinkled with water from

the sprig of basil. Each person had brought his own sprig of basil

which he presented to the priest to bless, and in return for this favor

dropped a small coin into the plate held by one of the acolytes. Basil

is always held to be a sacred plant in Greece. The legend says that it

grew on Christ's tomb, and they imagine that this is the reason why its

leaves grow in a cruciform shape. In nearly every humble Greek dwelling

you may see a dried sprig of basil hanging in the household sanctuary.

It is this sprig which has been blessed at the Feast of Lights. It is

most effectual say they in keeping off the influence of the evil eye.

The day broke fine and the violence of the storm was over. Yet our

captain still lingered saying that perhaps toward evening we might

start, and for this delay I believe I discovered the reason. Towards

midday on Epiphany it is customary among these seafaring islanders to

hold a solemn function, closely akin to the one I had witnessed in the

church that morning, namely, the blessing of the sea.

From their homes by the shore the fishermen came, and all the

inhabitants of Skiathos assembled on the quay to join the procession

which descended from the church by a zigzag path, headed by two priests

and two acolytes behind them waving censers, and men carrying banners

and the large cross.

Very touching it was to watch the deep devotion of these hardy

seafaring men as they knelt on the shore whilst the litany was being

chanted, and whilst the chief priest blest the waves with his cross and

invoked the blessing of the most High on the many and varied crafts

which were riding at anchor in Skiathos harbor. When the service was

over there followed, as in the morning, an unseemly bustle, so ready

are these vivacious people to turn from the solemn to the gay. Every

one chatted with his neighbor and pressed forward toward a little

jetty to see the fun. Presently the priest advanced to the end of this

jetty with the cross in his hand, and after tying a heavy stone to it

he threw it into the sea. Thereupon there was a general rush into the

water; men and boys with their clothes on plunged and dived until at

length to the applause of the bystanders one young man succeeded in

bringing the cross to the surface, stone and all. A subscription was

then raised for the successful diver, the proceeds of which were spent

by him in ordering many glasses of wine at the nearest coffee shop,

and the wet men sat down for a heavy drink--to drive out the chill, I

suppose.

In many places you will find the boats hauled upon the beach the day

before Christmas, and nothing will induce their owners to launch them

again until after the blessing of the sea. I am sure the captain of

our steamer shared the superstition, though he chose to laugh at the

islanders' ways; for a few hours after the sea had been blessed we

put out into it, and I imagine could have started hours before if the

captain had been so inclined.

J. T. BENT

La Galette du Roi

In France, where it probably originated, the Twelfth Night cake, known

as La Galette du Roi ("the king's cake"), still survives.

The cake is generally made of pastry, and baked in a round sheet like

a pie. The size of the cake depends on the number of persons in the

company. In former times a broad bean was baked in the cake, but now a

small china doll is substituted.

[Illustration: THE ADORATION OF THE MAGI. _Memling._]

The cake is the last course in the dinner. One of the youngest people

at the table is asked to say to whom each piece shall be given. This

creates a little excitement and all watch breathlessly to see who gets

the doll. The person who gets it is king or queen, and immediately

chooses a king or queen for a partner. So soon as the king and queen

are announced they are under the constant observation of the rest of

the party and whatever they do is immediately commented upon. In a

short time there is a perfect uproar: "The king drinks," "the queen

speaks," "the queen laughs." This is kept up for a long time; then

there are games, music and dancing.

WILLIAM HONE in the _Everyday Book_

Drawing King and Queen on Twelfth Night

Hone, in his _Everyday Book_, describes a drawing as it was conducted

in 1823: "First, buy your cake. Then, before your visitors arrive, buy

your characters (painted cards), each of which should have a pleasant

verse beneath. Next, look at your invitation list and count the number

of ladies you expect; and afterwards the number of gentlemen. Then

take as many female characters as you have invited ladies; fold them

up, exactly of the same size, and number each on the back, taking care

to make the King No. 1 and the Queen No. 2. Then prepare and number

the gentlemen's characters. Cause tea and coffee to be handed to your

visitors as they drop in. When all are assembled, and tea over, put as

many ladies' characters in a reticule as there are ladies present; next

put the gentlemen's characters in a hat. Then call a gentleman to carry

the reticule to the ladies, as they sit, from which each lady is to

draw one ticket and preserve it unopened. Select a lady to bear the hat

to the gentlemen for the same purpose. There will be one ticket left in

the reticule and another in the hat, which the lady and gentleman who

carried each is to interchange, as having fallen to each. Next arrange

your visitors according to their numbers--the King No. 1, the Queen No.

2, and so on. The king is then to recite the verse on his ticket, then

the queen the verse on hers, and so the characters are to proceed in

numerical order.

This done, let the cake and refreshments go round, and hey! for

merriment.

St. Distaff's Day and Plough Monday

The day after Epiphany was called St. Distaff's day by country people,

because the Christmas holidays being ended the time had come for the

resumption of the distaff and other industrious employments of good

housewives.

The Monday after Twelfthday was a similar occasion for the resumption

of agricultural labors. Another writer connects the day with a custom

which among farm servants corresponded somewhat to the 'prentices

Boxing Day. The usage was "to draw around a plough and solicit money

with guisings, and dancing with swords, preparatory to beginning to

plough after the Christmas holidays."

Olaus Magnus describes the "dance with swords": First, with swords

sheathed and erect in their hands, they dance in a triple round; then

with their drawn swords held erect as before; afterwards extending them

from hand to hand, they lay hold of each other's hilts and points,

and while they are wheeling more moderately around and changing their

order, they throw themselves into the figure of a hexagon which they

call a rose: but presently raising and drawing back their swords, they

undo that figure, in order to form with them a four-square rose so

that they may rebound over the head of each other. Lastly, they dance

rapidly backwards, and vehemently rattling the sides of their swords

together, conclude their sport. Pipes or songs (sometimes both) direct

the measure which at first is slow, increasing to a very quick movement

at the close. Olaus Magnus adds: "It is scarcely to be understood how

gamely and decent it is."

WILLIAM HONE in _Year Book_

XII

THE CHRISTMAS SPIRIT

[Illustration: THE CHRISTMAS SPIRIT]

The Book of Christmas · 第 18 / 20 段