JOURNAL
OF AN
EXPEDITION TO EXPLORE THE COURSE AND
TERMINATION OF THE NIGER.
[Illustration: JOHN LANDER
_London. Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street, 1832._]
JOURNAL
OF
AN EXPEDITION TO EXPLORE THE COURSE
AND TERMINATION
OF
THE NIGER;
WITH A
NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE DOWN THAT RIVER
TO ITS TERMINATION.
BY
RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER.
* * * * *
_IN THREE VOLUMES._
ILLUSTRATED WITH ENGRAVINGS AND MAPS.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET.
* * * * *
MDCCCXXXII.
LONDON:
Printed by WILLIAM CLOWES,
Stamford Street.
CONTENTS
OF
VOLUME THE SECOND.
* * * * *
CHAPTER VIII.
Page.
The Widow Zuma — Present to the King — Visit to the Niger — 1
The King of Boossà, and Midikie — Object of the mission
explained — The tobe of Park recovered — Park’s Papers —
Boossà described — Resources of the Country — One of Park’s
books discovered — Equity of the King — The hostess —
Departure from Boossà — Kagogie — Canoes — Embark on the
Niger — Description of the River — Village of Sooloo — Rocky
Barrier — Arrival at Yàoorie.
CHAPTER IX.
Remarks on the River — Intelligence of the fate of Mr. Park 33
— His Gun obtained — Visit to the Sultan — Unsuccessful
Application for Mr. Park’s Papers — The Kingdom and City of
Yàoorie and its Natives — The Sultan’s Son — Insurgents —
The Sultan’s Daughters — Mischief of the Widow Zuma —
Application of the Travellers to the King of Boossà — Wars
in Nouffie — Provinces of Hàussa — Detention of the
Travellers — The Sultan of Yàoorie — His character —
Farewell visit.
CHAPTER X.
Leave Yàoorie — Method of watching the Corn — The Cumbrie 81
People — their treatment — Sleeping-huts and Spear of the
Cumbrie — Arrive at Waree — Garnicassa — Ignorance of the
Natives concerning the course of the River — Their
Amusements — Return to Boossà — Visit to Wowow recommended —
The River consulted by the King of Boossà — Kings of this
City — Scarcity of Provisions — Journey to Wowow — First
interview with the King.
CHAPTER XI.
Horse-racing at Wowow on the Mahomedan Sabbath — Indignation 114
of the King of Wowow against the King of Kiàma — Religious
Procession of Females — Policy of the King of Wowow —
Richard Lander taken ill — Leaves his brother at Wowow, and
returns to Boossà — Narrative of John Lander — The Blessing
of the Priestess — Religious Sects — Their Creeds, and Ideas
of a Future State — Funeral and Marriage Ceremonies — Park’s
Books — The States of Borgoo — The last of Park’s effects —
Farewell to the King of Wowow — Departure — Village —
Apprehensions of the Natives — The Travellers meet at
Boossà.
CHAPTER XII.
Scandal of the Natives — Treaty for a Canoe — Defeats of the 150
Falàtahs at Catsheena and Zaria — Measures of the King of
Boossà for the future safety of the Travellers — Artifices
for obtaining Presents from them — Preparations for
Celebrating the Mahomedan Festival — The King’s Drummer —
The Horse Race, and the King’s Speech — A troublesome
Servant — Festivities at Boossà — The Eclipse — Version of
it by the Arab Priests — Effects on the people — Messengers
from Borgoo — Caffas — Mode of preparing them — Arrival of a
Fatakie — The Ashantees’ method of killing Elephants —
Married Slaves — Their Treatment — Permission for Departure
requested — El Kanemee the Arab — The King assents to the
Travellers leaving Boossà — The Messenger from Rabba with
the King’s Son — Joy of the King of Boossà at his arrival —
Opinion of his general conduct towards the Travellers.
CHAPTER XIII.
The King and Midiki take leave of the Travellers — They 210
embark on the River and depart from Boossà — Island Melálie
Inguâzhilligee — Island Patáshie — The Chief of Teàh —
Messengers from the King of Wowow — Perplexity of the
Travellers respecting their Route — Terror of the Natives at
their Appearance — An Invalid — Diseases of the Natives —
Their Medicines — Richard Lander goes to Wowow —
Superstition of the Natives — Charms — Return of Richard
Lander to Patáshie — His interview with the King of Wowow —
House of Correction at Patáshie — Native Pagan Priest —
Departure from Patáshie — Ráah — Arrive at Lever — An
officious Friend in the Priest Ducoo — Disappointment of the
Travellers.
CHAPTER XIV.
State of the Town of Lever — The Falátahs — The Travellers’ 246
Canoes claimed — Interference of Ducoo — Detention of the
Travellers — Their departure from Lever — The Town of
Bajiebo — Chiefs — Canoes of Bajiebo — Departure from
Bajiebo — Scenery of the River — Town of Leechee — Visit to
the Chief — The Passage continued down the River — Madjie
Island — Mount Kesa — Land on Belee Island — Messenger from
Rabba — Arrival of Suliken Rouah, or the King of the Dark
Water — Grand Procession of Canoes down the River — Arrival
at Zagozhi Island — Its swampy nature.
CHAPTER XV.
Stay at Zagozhi — Presents sent to the Chiefs of Rabba — An 284
old but troublesome acquaintance — Presents from the Kings
of Nouffie and Rabba to the Travellers — Importunities of
the King’s messengers — An Arab merchant — Policy of the
Falátah Chief, Mallam Dendo, in securing the possession of
his conquests — Former Expedition of the Falátahs against
Funda — Rabba market — The King of Rabba discontented with
his present — Consternation of the Travellers — Park’s tobe
sent to him — Joy of the King on receiving it — Permission
to proceed — Treacherous conduct of the King of Nouffie —
The King of Rabba’s answer — Conversation among the Hàussa
merchants — Mallam Dendo the former King of Rabba — His
character — Rabba market — Island of Zagozhi — The islanders
expert canoemen — Manufactures of Zagozhi — Promise of a
canoe.
* * * * *
JOURNAL.
* * * * *
CHAPTER VIII.
The Widow Zuma — Present to the King — Visit to the Niger — The King of
Boossà and the Midīkie — Object of the mission explained — The tobe of
Park recovered — Park’s papers — Boossà described — Resources of the
Country — One of Park’s books discovered — Equity of the King — The
hostess — Departure from Boossà — Kagogie — Canoes — Embark on the Niger
— Description of the river — Village of Sooloo — Rocky barrier — Arrival
at Yáoorie.
_Friday, June 18th._—The noted widow Zuma visited us to-day without the
slightest pretensions to finery of any kind, either in her dress or
ornaments, for she was clad in very humble apparel of country cloth. She
related to us with great good humour her quarrels with her prince, the
ruler of Wowow, and her consequent flight from that city to escape his
resentment. It appears that, in order to effect this, she was actually
obliged to climb over the city wall in the night, and travel on foot to
Boossà, which is a very long journey, and to a woman of her size must
have been an arduous task. She alleged that she had done nothing
whatever to merit the displeasure of the Wowow chief, notwithstanding
which he had robbed her of all her household furniture and a number of
her slaves. But, from another quarter, we learn that one of her sons had
committed a theft in the city, for which he would have suffered death,
if he had not made his escape with his mother, who it is said had
instigated him to the deed. The widow complained sadly of poverty and
the hardness of the times; she had fought with the Yarribeans against
Alòrie; but instead of receiving a recompense for her bravery, she had
lost half her slaves in an engagement, which so disgusted her with the
military profession, that she immediately abandoned it and returned
home. Yet, in spite of all her losses and misfortunes, she has gained so
much in corpulency, that it was with the utmost difficulty she could
squeeze herself into the doorway of our hut, although it is by no means
small. The widow Zuma is a very good-looking, elderly person of matronly
appearance. Her skin is of a light copper colour.
After the widow had left us, I carried the presents which had been
selected to the king and queen. Each appeared delighted with them, and
the former more especially was extravagant in expressions of admiration
and thankfulness. A pair of silver bracelets, a tobacco pipe, and a
looking-glass, seemed to rivet the attention of the king, who could not
take his eyes off them for a full half hour, so much was he pleased with
them.
This morning we visited the far-famed _Niger_ or _Quorra_, which flows
by the city, about a mile from our residence, and were greatly
disappointed at the appearance of this celebrated river. Black, rugged
rocks rose abruptly from the centre of the stream, causing strong
ripples and eddies on its surface. It is said that, a few miles above
Boossà, the river is divided into three branches, by two small fertile
islands, and that it flows from hence in one continued stream to Funda.
The Niger here, in its widest part, is not more than a stone’s-throw
across at present. The rock on which we sat overlooks the spot where Mr.
Park and his associates met their unhappy fate; we could not help
meditating on that circumstance, and on the number of valuable lives
which have been sacrificed in attempting to explore this river, and
secretly implored the Almighty that we might be the humble means of
setting at rest for ever the great question of its course and
termination.
_Saturday, June 19th._—This morning the king, accompanied by his
consort, who is said to be his counsellor and only confidant, honoured
us with a visit at our hut. They came without any kind of state or
ceremony, and were both dressed more plainly than many of their
subjects. The king wore a white cotton tobe over another of blue and
white, a cap of red cloth, and leathern sandals of the same colour. The
midīkie was clad in a common check shirt, of Nouffie manufacture; a
plain piece of blue cotton was fastened round her head, wholly
concealing the hair; a larger piece of the same kind was thrown over the
left shoulder, and a third, tied round her waist, reached so far as the
middle of the leg. Her feet were bare, as were likewise her arms up to
the elbow; a brass ring ornamented each great toe, and eight silver
bracelets each wrist, the least of them weighing little less than a
quarter of a pound. Besides these ornaments, the queen wore a necklace
of coral and bits of gold, and small pieces of pipe coral were stuck in
the lobe of each ear.
We had almost forgotten to mention that the sultan of Bornou is
considered the most powerful chief of Northern, as the king of Boossà is
of Western Africa. The queen is the daughter of the last and sister of
the present ruler of Wowow.
The demand for coral has been very great in every town of consequence
which we have visited. All ranks of people appear passionately fond of
wearing it, and it is preferred to every other ornament whatever. The
midīkie asked us, this morning, if we had brought any coral with us, and
seemed rather disappointed, though not displeased, on being answered in
the negative. She then pulled out a little box, made of sheep skin,
which was filled with coral beads and little golden trinkets, and
requested me to polish the latter for her. We offered her a few plated
buttons, which we had just before been cleaning, and they were accepted
with transport; but, as their brightness had excited the admiration of
her consort, a scramble took place as to which of the two should have
them. After a long struggle, it ended in the triumph of the king, who
first chose the largest and best for his own use, and then gave his
spouse the remainder, taking care, however, to show her the inside of
the buttons he had selected for himself, which were tarnished by use,
and to display those intended for her to the greatest advantage. The
royal couple were like two great children, yet they were each well
pleased with their own, and expressed their thankfulness with much
warmth.
We imagined that it would have been bad policy to have stated the true
reason of our visiting this country, knowing the jealousy of most of the
people with regard to the Niger; and therefore, in answer to the king’s
inquiries, I was obliged to deceive him with the assertion that our
object was to go to Bornou by way of Yáoorie, requesting at the same
time a safe conveyance through his territories. This answer satisfied
the king, and he promised us every assistance in his power. Our visitors
remained with us a considerable time, and in the course of conversation,
one of them observed that they had in their possession a tobe, which
belonged to a white man who came from the north many years ago, and from
whom it had been purchased by the king’s father. We expressed great
curiosity to see this tobe, and it was sent us as a present a short time
after their departure. Contrary to our expectations, we found it to be
made of rich crimson damask, and very heavy from the immense quantity of
gold embroidery with which it was covered. As the time when the late
king is said to have purchased this tobe corresponds very nearly to the
supposed period of Mr. Park’s death, and as we never heard of any other
white man having come from the north so far south as Boossà, we are
inclined to believe it to be part of the spoil obtained from the canoe
of that ill-fated traveller. Whether Mr. Park wore the tobe himself,
which is scarcely probable on account of its weight, or whether he
intended it as a present to a native chief, we are at a loss to
determine. At all events, the article is a curiosity in itself; and if
we should live to return to England, we shall easily learn whether it
was made there or not. The chief himself has never worn the tobe, nor
did his predecessor, from a superstitious feeling; ‘besides,’ observed
the king, ‘it might excite the cupidity of the neighbouring powers.’
_Sunday, June 20th._—The king sent a messenger this morning, to inform
us that he was a tailor, and that he would thank us for some thread and
a few needles for his own private use. By this man he likewise sent a
musket for us to repair; but as it is Sunday, we have declined doing it
till to-morrow. Eager as we are to obtain even the slightest information
relative to the unhappy fate of Mr. Park and his companions, as well as
to ascertain if any of their books or papers are now in existence at
this place, we had almost made up our minds to refrain from asking any
questions on the subject, because we were apprehensive that it might be
displeasing to the king, and involve us in many perplexities.
Familiarity, however, having in some measure worn off this impression,
and the king being an affable, obliging, and good-natured person, we
were emboldened to send Paskoe to him this morning, with a message
expressive of the interest we felt on the subject, in common with all
our countrymen; and saying that, if any books or papers which belonged
to Mr. Park were yet in his possession, he would do us a great service,
by delivering them into our hands, or at least by granting us permission
to see them. To this the king returned for answer, that when Mr. Park
was lost in the Niger, he was a very little boy, and that he knew not
what had become of his effects; that the deplorable event had occurred
in the reign of the late king’s predecessor, who died shortly after; and
that all traces of the white man had been lost with him. This answer
disappointed our hopes, for to us it appeared final and decisive. But in
the evening they were again raised by a hint from our host, who is the
king’s drummer, and one of the principal men in the country: he assured
us, that there was certainly one book at least saved from Mr. Park’s
canoe, which is now in the possession of a very poor man in the service
of his master, to whom it had been entrusted by the late king during his
last illness. He said moreover, that if but one application were made to
the king, on any subject whatever, very little was thought of it; but if
a second were made, the matter would be considered of sufficient
importance to demand his whole attention,—such being the custom of the
country. The drummer therefore recommended us to persevere in our
inquiries, for he had no doubt that something to our satisfaction would
be elicited. At his own request, we sent him to the king immediately,
desiring him to repeat our former statement, and to assure the king,
that should he be successful in recovering the book we wanted, our
monarch would reward him handsomely. He desired the drummer to inform
us, that he would use every exertion, and examine the man who was
reported to have the white man’s book in his possession, at an early
hour to-morrow. Here the matter at present rests.
In the afternoon, the king came alone to see us, and wished to know when
we were inclined to depart: we answered, that we were quite ready; that
we were only waiting his pleasure, and would gladly proceed on our
journey whenever he would give us permission. He said, if the king of
Yáoorie should not have a canoe for us by Monday evening, we should have
the use of one of his own, and that we should have liberty to embark on
the following morning. We thanked him for his kindness, and took the
opportunity of paying him and his spouse a compliment, which their
treatment of us has really deserved. The king took it in good part, was
extremely affable and obliging, and quitted us in an excellent humour.
I have been very unwell during the last day or two, but am now much
better.
_Monday, June 21st._—The city of Boossá, as we have before observed,
consists of a great number of groups or clusters of huts, all within a
short distance of each other. It is bounded on one side by the river
Quorra or Niger, and on the other by an extensive turreted wall, with
moats, forming a complete semicircle. Notwithstanding, however, its
natural and artificial defences, Boossá was taken by the Falátahs many
years ago; on which occasion its inhabitants fled, with their children
and effects, to one of those little islands in the Niger, which we have
already mentioned. But the chiefs of Niki, Wowow, and Kíama, having been
made acquainted with the circumstance, assembled together, and having
joined their forces with those of Boossà, drove the Falátahs, their
common enemy, into the Niger, where many of them perished. Since that
period the city has never been invaded, nor threatened with attack. The
soil of Boossà is, for the most part, very fertile, and produces rice,
corn, yams, &c., in great abundance. _Dowah_, a kind of corn, is
obtained here in the greatest perfection; it yields five hundred fold,
and forms the principal food of the inhabitants, both rich and poor.
Another variety of corn grows here, which has eight ears on a single
stem; the grain is very small and sweet, but it is not cultivated to any
extent. The butter-tree flourishes in and near the town; and palm oil is
imported from Nouffie; but the latter is only used as an article of
food, because it is very scarce and dear, and is purchased only by the
king and a few of the principal inhabitants. The king and his midīkie
have each great numbers of fine cattle, but none of their subjects are
in possession of a single bullock; they have, however, flocks of sheep
and goats, and obtain immense quantities of fish from the Niger. Very
good salt is brought from a salt lake on the borders of the river, which
is about ten days’ journey to the northward of this place; and pepper
grows in every part of the country. Guinea-fowl, pheasants, partridges,
and a variety of aquatic birds are found here in the greatest plenty,
and have afforded us excellent sport. The natives sometimes endeavour to
shoot them with their arrows, but this method of procuring game is at
all times very precarious and difficult; and two birds only have been
thus killed during several years past. Deer and antelopes also abound
near the city; but they are timid and shy, and rarely, if ever, caught
by the inhabitants. The fish, with which the river abounds so
plentifully, are eaten by all classes of people: they are tough, dry,
and unsavory; yet they form part of the daily food of the inhabitants,
who appear exceedingly fond of them.
The Hàussa language is understood by the generality of the natives of
Borgoo, both young and old, almost as well as their mother-tongue, and
it is spoken by the majority of them with considerable fluency. The
government of the country is despotic; but this unlimited power, which
is vested in the monarch, is almost invariably exercised with lenity and
forbearance. All private disputes are settled by the king, and he
punishes misdemeanours just as his inclination may lead him. It was
reported that the queen ruled her husband, and influenced his conduct in
all matters; but the affair of the buttons shows the rumour to be ill-
founded. The king’s address is superior; and his whole demeanour, in our
presence, though mild and unassuming, displays a good deal of natural
dignity. He sent us a fine turkey this morning, which was acknowledged
on our part by a couple of Guinea-fowl and two brace of partridges,
which my brother had shot.
In the afternoon, the king came to see us, followed by a man with a book
under his arm, which was said to have been picked up in the Niger after
the loss of our countryman. It was enveloped in a large cotton cloth,
and our hearts beat high with expectation as the man was slowly
unfolding it, for by its size we guessed it to be Mr. Park’s journal;
but our disappointment and chagrin were great, when, on opening the
book, we discovered it to be an old nautical publication of the last
century. The title page was missing, but its contents were chiefly
tables of logarithms. It was a thick royal quarto, which led us to
conjecture that it was a journal; between the leaves we found a few
loose papers of very little consequence indeed; one of them contained
two or three observations on the height of the water in the Gambia; one
was a tailor’s bill on a Mr. Anderson; and another was addressed to Mr.
Mungo Park, and contained an invitation to dinner,—the following is a
copy of it:—
‘Mr. and Mrs. Watson would be happy to have the pleasure of Mr. Park’s
company at dinner on Tuesday next, at half-past five o’clock.
‘An answer is requested.
‘_Strand, 9th Nov._ 1804.’
The king, as well as the owner of the book, looked as greatly mortified
as ourselves, when they were told that the one produced was not that of
which we were in quest, because the reward promised would not of course
be obtained. As soon as our curiosity had been fully satisfied, the
papers were carefully collected and placed again between the leaves, and
the book as carefully folded in its envelope as before, and taken away
by its owner, who values it as much as a household god. Thus all our
hopes of obtaining Mr. Park’s journal or papers, in this city, are
entirely defeated. The inquiry, on our part, has not been prosecuted
without much trouble and anxiety, and some little personal sacrifices
likewise, which, had they been ten times as great, we would gladly have
made whilst a single hope remained of their being effectual.
_Tuesday, June 22d._—When Captain Clapperton was at Wowow on the former
expedition, Paskoe purchased a slave of the widow Zuma to be his wife,
but for some reason or other the bargain was not completed, and the
woman remained with her mistress. A part of the purchase-money only was
given back to Paskoe, and he was obliged to quit the town with his
master without having had an opportunity of recovering the remainder.
The widow’s late change of residence from Wowow to Boossà seemed to
offer a fair chance for Paskoe to obtain his money, and he accordingly
made an early application for it; but though she acknowledged the debt,
she refused payment on the ground that, as the prince of Wowow had
forcibly obtained possession of the girl in question, he had no right
whatever to the money. Paskoe, unwilling to lose so large a sum, then
laid the matter before the king of Boossà, for his decision; and, in
consequence, the widow has undergone two or three examinations, without
producing any good whatever. The monarch has declared that he sees the
justice of his demand, but as the woman obstinately refuses to pay the
debt, he cannot think of forcing her to do so against her inclination.
Paskoe subsequently offered the whole of the money which the widow owed
him to the king, provided the latter could obtain it. But this was
altogether repugnant to the monarch’s notions of right and wrong. He
replied, ‘The widow came here to me alone, and in distress, to claim my
protection, which I granted her without hesitation; it would therefore
ill become me to break my faith, and turn my back on an object so
utterly defenceless and unprotected, by exacting from her the money of
another for my own use, in the recovery of which I had previously
refused to interfere. I cannot break my word—I cannot grant you your
request.’
It is amusing to discover the shifts to which the people of Boossà and
other places have resorted, in the hope of obtaining a little present of
some sort from us. The day after our arrival here, a man, who
represented himself as brother to the King of Nouffie, sent us a large
bowl of dried fish and onions; and another individual has sold his only
tobe, for the purpose of obtaining a little money to purchase some
_bum_, which is a fermented liquor extracted from the palm tree and the
bamboo, and which he is about to present to us. The former of these
presents was rejected, because such kind of things had become, by their
frequency, so serious an inconvenience, that we have determined to
accept of nothing for the future in the shape of a gift, except from the
chiefs and governors themselves. Yet we have repented of our resolution
in this instance, having been informed yesterday that the pretended
brother of the King of Nouffie was not long ago taken prisoner by the
Falátahs, and his only son with him, and that they were both sold by
them to a company of Hàussa merchants; that the father had redeemed
himself from slavery by his own exertions, and that he had had recourse
to the above expedient of sending us a quantity of dried fish and
onions, in the expectation of obtaining a little money from us towards
emancipating his son. The poor man went away quite crest-fallen and
unhappy at the ill success of his project, and quitted the city
immediately after, to visit his enslaved son, who is at _Koolfu_, so
that when we were made acquainted with the circumstance it was too late
to relieve him, and we very much regretted it.
Our hostess is an agreeable and good-natured woman, but she is
excessively vain of her person; so much so indeed, that she employs
several hours in the day in dressing her hair, which hangs down below
the face in three plaited _queues_, one of them from the forehead, and
one from each side of the head; after which she affixes ornaments on
different parts of her body, stains her lips and teeth a shining red
colour with _hennah_ (a species of myrtle); and when all this is done
she admires herself in a broken looking-glass which we have given her.
This is the most whimsical and diverting part of the ceremony: she
approaches the glass and retreats from it again, smiles when she fancies
that she looks pretty; and distorts her features and throws her body
into all manner of comical attitudes, to ascertain which is the most
engaging. Although only a drummer’s wife, our hostess is considered as a
person of respectability, for her husband’s situation is one of the most
important in the kingdom; and all the more respectable females of Borgoo
adorn their persons in much the same manner as she does, and have an
almost equal share of affectation and vanity. The men sometimes stain
their lips and teeth, and finger and toe-nails, like their wives; but
this custom is by no means general among them. The King and Queen of
Boossà disregard it altogether.
We brought three horses with us to Coobly from Jenna; two of them have
died from fatigue, and the third is in so miserable a state, that he can
be of no further service to us. The king paid us a visit this afternoon,
and informed us that everything will be in readiness for our departure
to-morrow. On this occasion he presented us with an excellent and
handsome horse, which is the more acceptable, as we have only one, which
we fortunately purchased a few days ago from the Governor of Coobly. The
monarch strongly enjoined us to accept of no provisions, particularly
milk and honey, from any person whatever, excepting the governors of
towns through which we may pass, for he was apprehensive that poison
would be mixed with them. He did not explain to us on what grounds he
entertained his suspicion, but left us to form our own conjectures on
his unexpected advice. If we are not mistaken, the king warned Captain
Clapperton of a similar danger.
During the whole course of our journey we have nowhere experienced
greater kindness, attention, and hospitality, than from the amiable
ruler of this place, and his no less amiable companion, and we shall
have occasion to remember their civility to us as long as we live.
Since we have been here the king has given us a horse, bullock, sheep,
and turkey, which were all very valuable, while our present to him is
considerably less than that which the King of Kiáma received.
_Wednesday, June 23rd._—Last night Boossà was visited by a tornado,
which did a little mischief to the town. At an early hour in the morning
the king and queen paid us a farewell visit, when the former again
cautioned us to beware of poison. We then expressed our acknowledgments
to both for all their favours; and an hour or two after they had taken
their departure, we rode out of the city, accompanied by two horsemen as
an escort, and a foot-messenger to the Sultan of Yàoorie. Not far from
the walls of Boossà we came to a spot where the herds of the King and
Midīkie were grazing: finer cattle can nowhere be seen; they are under
the care of Falátah slaves, because the natives do not understand their
management. From hence we journied along the banks of the Niger, at an
easy pace, owing to the hollows in the path, and two hours afterwards
entered a pleasant little walled town, called _Kagogie_, where we were
desired to halt till to-morrow. The town is peopled solely by the King
of Boussà’s slaves; and is distant, in a northerly direction, from the
capital about eight or nine miles. We have been sent hither by land,
because a canoe could not be paddled up the river without the greatest
difficulty and danger, on account of the rocks. The inhabitants of
Kagogie appear to enjoy an easy kind of life. The chief part of their
time is employed in husbandry, fishing, and taking care of the king’s
horses; and though but indifferently clad, they all seem well fed,
contented, and comfortable.
In the afternoon a young woman presented herself with a few loose leaves
of ‘Thomson’s Seasons,’ which we had thrown away at Boossà. She had been
despatched purposely by the king, her master, who imagined that they
were valuable to us, and that we had overlooked them in the hurry of
departure.
Even here, in this insignificant and sequestered place, the Arabic
language is professed to be taught in schools, and boys are put under
the tuition of men, who can only teach them a few very short Mohammedan
prayers, and who do not themselves understand a single Arabic character.
Our nights were spent most unpleasantly at Boossà, by reason of the
swarms of mosquitoes and black ants which infested our dwelling, and
whose sting is keener than a needle’s point; the latter insect, in
particular, is a great nuisance, and we are told that there is not a
town on the banks of the Niger that is free from either.
_Thursday, June 24th._—Though the governor of Kagogie had been made
acquainted with our intentions no less than three days before our
arrival, yet no canoe had been got ready for our use; and this morning,
when we expected to embark, the ‘King of the Canoe,’ as the person who
has the care of it is ridiculously styled, informed us with the utmost
unconcern that it was out of repair, and that it would not be fit for
our reception for some hours at least. This intelligence was very
disagreeable and provoking, for we were so anxious to embark on the
Niger, that the shortest delay was painful to us. Besides the appearance
of the morning foretold a hot day, and as we had neither awning nor
umbrellas to screen us from the burning sun, this circumstance tended to
increase our uneasiness. The natives have no forethought, and imagine
that all men value time as little as themselves; everything is deferred
till the very last moment, and they look up into one’s face with wonder
when they see one anywise impatient.
In the course of the forenoon we repaired to the side of the river,
which is about twenty or thirty paces from the town, for the purpose of
endeavouring to encourage and hurry the workmen in their labour about
the canoe. Promises and threats were employed to effect this object, but
the men would neither be coaxed nor intimidated,—they would not overwork
themselves, they said, for all the riches in our possession; so that we
were obliged to leave them, and exercise our patience. The branch of the
Niger which flows by Kagogie is about a mile in width; but it is
rendered so shallow by large sand-banks that, except in one very narrow
place, a child might wade across it without difficulty. Mr. Park chose a
deeper and safer branch, though it led to the same dangers.
Our horses were conveyed across from here to the opposite side of the
river, from whence they will be taken to Yàoorie by land, because the
canoes of the natives would be too frail a conveyance for them. These
canoes are of great length, but the workmanship employed in making and
fashioning them is exceedingly rude and careless. Owing perhaps to the
want of proper trees of sufficient magnitude, they are made of _two_
blocks of wood, which are sewn together by a thick cord, under which a
quantity of straw is placed, both inside and out, to prevent the
admission of water; but the whole is altogether so clumsily executed,
that every canoe in the country is always leaky.
About mid-day the workmen having finished our canoe, the luggage was
presently put into it, and between twelve and one we embarked with our
people, and were launched out into the river. The direction of this
branch was nearly east and west; and we proceeded some distance down the
stream for the purpose of getting into the main branch of the Niger,
where there is deeper water. This object was soon attained, and we found
it flowing from north to south, through a rich and charming country,
which seemed to improve in appearance the further we advanced. We were
propelled at a good rate up a channel, which, from half a mile in
breadth, gradually widened to rather better than a mile. Beautiful,
spreading, and spiry trees adorned the country on each side of the
river, like a park; corn, nearly ripe, waved over the water’s edge;
large, open villages appeared every half-hour; and herds of spotted
cattle were observed grazing and enjoying the cool of the shade. The
appearance of the river, for several miles, was no less enchanting than
its borders; it was as smooth as a lake; canoes, laden with sheep and
goats, were paddled by women down its almost imperceptible current;
swallows, and a variety of aquatic birds, were sporting over its glassy
surface, which was ornamented by a number of pretty little islands.
The heat of the weather distressed us greatly, till the approach of
evening, when large sand-banks and shallows engaged our attention. A
little after eight, P.M., we landed on the eastern bank of the river,
not far from a small village, where we fixed our tent on a plot of
rising corn, and, having nothing to eat, went supperless to rest.
_Friday, June 25th._—The most remarkable object which we saw on rising
this morning, was a rugged and romantic range of hills, appearing to the
eastward of our encampment: it is called _Engarskie_, from a country of
the same name in which the hills are situated, and which was formerly an
independent kingdom, but is now become a province of Yàoorie. At a
little before seven, A.M., our canoe was pushed off the sandy beach on
which it had been secured last evening, and propelled down a very narrow
channel, between a large sand-bank and the shore. This conducted us into
the main branch of the Niger, and we again admired its delightful and
magnificent appearance.
We had proceeded only a few hundred yards when the river gradually
widened to two miles, and continued so as far as the eye could reach. It
looked very much like an artificial canal; the banks having the
appearance of a dwarf wall, with vegetation beyond. In most places the
water was extremely shallow, but in others it was deep enough to float a
frigate. During the first two hours of the day, the scenery was as
interesting and picturesque as can be imagined. The banks were literally
covered with hamlets and villages; fine trees, bending under the weight
of their dark and impenetrable foliage, everywhere relieved the eye from
the glare of the sun’s rays, and, contrasted with the lively verdure of
the little hills and plains, produced the most pleasing effect.
Afterwards, however, there was a decided change; the banks, which before
consisted of dark earth, clay, or sand, were now composed of black
rugged rocks; large sand-banks and islands were scattered in the river,
which diverted it into a variety of little channels, and effectually
destroyed its appearance.
About eleven o’clock, dark clouds from the west foretold an approaching
storm; and our boatmen used their utmost exertions in endeavouring to
reach a village, or some place of security, before it should burst upon
us; but in this hope we were disappointed, for in a very few minutes it
blew a hurricane, accompanied by thunder and lightning of the most awful
description, and the rain fell in torrents. It became, besides, so dark,
that nothing could be clearly distinguished at the distance of only a
few yards. We were wetted to the skin in a moment; and our canoe was in
danger of sinking as we came abreast of a little fishing village, on an
island, close to the water’s edge. We jumped on shore as soon as
possible, and ran, without shoes or hats, into the first hut we came to
for protection from the storm. Here our unlooked for intrusion
frightened away a poor woman, who rushed out of the hut as we entered
it; but we commenced throwing off our dripping clothes, and displacing a
pot of fish which was stewing over a few expiring embers, heaped up all
the dry wood we could find. Not till then did we discover that our
situation was little better than it had been in the canoe; the hut had
two large open doorways opposite each other, through which the wind
swept the rain, and filled it with pools of water. This was too much for
us, and sallying out immediately, half-dressed, we hurried towards a hut
which we perceived at a short distance; but this was no better than that
which we had left,—all seemed alike; and rushing back again through the
pelting rain, we regained our deserted hut, and resigned ourselves to
all its inconveniences. Our people shortly afterwards came up to us,
quite benumbed with cold and wet; and, notwithstanding their distress
and our own comfortless condition, we could not forbear laughing at
their comical and ragged appearance. Meantime the hostess and her
husband, with several of the other villagers, summoned up resolution
enough to visit us; and by way of a peace-offering, they brought with
them fire-wood and a small quantity of provisions. This enabled us to
kindle two large fires in the hut, which, as the storm was abating, soon
dried up the water; but we were unavoidably obliged to lie down in damp
clothes. My brother and I sat up during the best part of the night, for
we found it impossible to sleep, not only on account of myriads of
mosquitoes, but the groaning and snoring of men, the barking and
growling of dogs, an incessant drumming at an adjacent village, and the
startling roar of a lion, which was prowling about our quarters nearly
the whole of the night.
_Saturday, June 26th._—The tempest of yesterday was succeeded by a cool
evening, and a remarkably clear night. In the morning, on leaving the
village, we were followed to the beach by a few of its inhabitants, and
when the canoe was pushed off at seven o’clock, they cheered us loudly.
These people are harmless and good-natured, but dirty in their persons
and singular in their manners. Their language is different from that
spoken at Boossà. Most of the villages on the islands, as far as
Yàoorie, it is said, are inhabited by the same race of people, and they
are also scattered on the banks of the river. The women daub their hair
with red clay, but they are too poor to purchase many personal
ornaments, and the men use none whatever. They appear to have the
necessaries of life in abundance; they are partial to agriculture, and
cultivate large portions of land with corn, rice, and onions; besides
which fishing is carried on by them on an extensive scale, and numbers
of the men go three days’ journey up the Niger to catch fish. Most of
their huts are supported on clay pillars, which are wonderfully small;
or on stone slabs not more than an inch in thickness. The walls of the
huts are only two or three inches in thickness; but these have no large
doorways like that which we occupied; and instead of them, they are
furnished with a small single aperture near the roof, to which their
owners are obliged to climb; and even then they cannot enter without
great exertion. These huts approach nearer to the shape of a common
English oven than anything else we have ever seen. Situated between
Boossà and Yàoorie, the inhabitants of most of the islands speak the
language of those countries, but they have also one of their own, which
nobody but themselves understand: a smattering of the Hàussa tongue,
which they have attained, is the only method of communication which is
adopted in their trading transactions.
We had passed the island whereon we slept last night but a few minutes,
and had just entered into the main river, when we came to a spot where
it spreads again into branches, and each channel was literally filled
with dangerous rocks, sand-banks, and low islands covered with tall rank
grass. The appearance of them was extremely disheartening. We were
conducted up the main branch of the river, but were soon obliged to land
with our people in order to lighten the canoe, which, after a deal of
exertion, was lifted over a ridge of rocks into deeper water. During the
greater part of the morning, indeed, our canoe was continually striking
against concealed rocks, or running on hidden sand-banks, but sustained
no apparent damage by the concussion; the only inconvenience we
experienced from it was the fatiguing one of being obliged to get out
and in whenever it was found necessary. It therefore afforded us much
pleasure to be landed, about two o’clock in the afternoon, on the left
bank of the river, for we were heartily tired of our morning’s work, and
felt highly gratified that it was over.
At a short distance from the water’s edge the country was thickly
studded with clusters of huts, which all together are called the village
of _Sooloo_; and we took up our quarters in a large one, which is
nearest the landing-place. The inhabitants resemble very much the
islanders already spoken of; they cultivate much land and catch vast
quantities of fish; but though they live well, they are clothed very
indifferently. The only ornaments they wear are made of the back-bone of
a certain species of fish, which are tied round the loins and other
parts of the body. Besides corn, &c. the inhabitants also grow immense
quantities of onions, and they have large store-houses full of these,
ready to be exported to different parts of the continent. The price of
an onion here is two cowries; at Katunga forty, and at Badágry they
fetch so high a price as a hundred cowries each.
We were treated this afternoon with much hospitality by them, and they
did all in their power to render our short stay as agreeable as
possible.
_Sunday, June 27th._—Both of us awoke this morning rather unwell, which
was most likely occasioned by our exposure to the tempest of Friday. The
old chief of the village accompanied us to the water’s edge when we
quitted our hut for the purpose of embarking, and enjoined the ‘King of
the Canoe’ to be particularly careful of his charge. ‘Careful!’ answered
the man; ‘to be sure I will; do I not know that white men are more
precious than a boat-load of eggs, and require as much care to be taken
of them?’ We entreated the same man a short time afterwards to be more
active and diligent in the management of his canoe, for he was rather
inclined to be lazy, and suffered every one to go before ours; but he
replied gravely, ‘Kings do not travel so fast as common men; I must
convey you along as slowly as possible.’
We had heard so unfavourable an account of the state of the river at one
particular place which we should have to pass, that our people were
compelled to disembark and walk along the banks a considerable way till
we had passed it, when we took them in again. We found the description
to be in no wise exaggerated; it presented a most forbidding appearance,
and yields only to the state of the Niger near Boossà in difficulty and
danger. On our arrival at this formidable place, we discovered a range
of black rocks running directly across the stream, and the water,
finding only one narrow passage, rushed through it with great
impetuosity, overturning and carrying away everything in its course. Our
boatmen, with the assistance of a number of the natives, who planted
themselves on the rocks on each side of the only channel, and in the
stream at the stern of the canoe, lifted it by main force into smoother
and safer water. The last difficulty with respect to rocks and sand-
banks was now overcome, and in a very little time we came to the
termination of all the islands, after which, it is said, there is not a
single dangerous place up the Niger. The river here presented its
noblest appearance; not a single rock nor sand-bank was anywhere
perceptible; its borders resumed their beauty, and a strong, refreshing
breeze, which had blown during the whole of the morning, now gave it the
motion of a slightly-agitated sea. In the course of the morning we
passed two lovely little islands, clothed in verdure, which at a short
distance looked as charming as the fabled gardens of Hesperia; indeed no
spot on earth can excel them in beauty of appearance. These islands are
inhabited by a few individuals.
About eleven A.M. we landed at the foot of a little village on the east
bank of the river, where our horses and men had arrived before us. Here
a little milk was presented to us by a Falátah in the service of the
sultan of Yàoorie, and we rested under a large tree an hour or two,
awaiting the arrival of carriers from the city of Yàoorie, who had been
sent for yesterday by one of the Boossà messengers that had charge of
our horses. These men arrived at the village between one and two o’clock
in the afternoon, and we immediately mounted and rode onwards.
The path was in a N.N.E. direction, and we travelled over a sterile
country, which was gradually rising at every step, and abounded
plentifully in game. The weather was oppressively warm, and we were
obliged to refresh ourselves by halting occasionally and resting in the
shade. The soil, which at first was so indifferent and barren, improved
greatly as we drew near Yàoorie; and immense patches of land, cultivated
with a variety of corn, also with rice, indigo, cotton, &c., were
visible on every side. Labourers were employed in these plantations,
attended by a drummer, that they might be excited by the sound of his
instrument to work well and briskly. On attaining the summit of a steep
hill, we rode over a very narrow pathway, so much overhung by an
impenetrable thorny shrub, that there was not room for more than one man
to walk. This led us to the wall of Yàoorie, and we entered the city
through an amazingly strong passage, in which was an immense door
covered with plates of iron, rudely fastened to the wood-work. We were
almost exhausted with fatigue on our arrival, insomuch that we excused
ourselves from visiting and paying our respects to the sultan, and we
were conducted to a convenient habitation, which had been prepared for
us. Yàoorie is about eight miles N.N.E. from the village at which we
landed.