The whole coast, in most places, was lined with a sheet of ice some ten
or fifteen miles wide, to the edge of which, in perfectly smooth water,
our ship, with many others at various distances, was made fast.
Fancy a day, warm to our feelings as one at the same time of year in
England, and an atmosphere of a brilliancy rarely or never seen at home,
not a breath of air stirring the glassy surface of the shining ocean;
while on the land side lofty mountains stretched away on either side,
with the opening of the bay in the centre, the rocks of numberless
tints, from the many-coloured lichens growing on them, rising as it were
out of a bed of snow still filling the valleys even in midsummer; while
mid-way, along the dark frowning crags which formed the coast, hung a
wavy line of semi-transparent mist, now tinged with a crimson hue, from
the almost horizontal rays of the sun, verging towards midnight.
These objects also, it must be understood, appeared so close at hand,
that I could scarcely persuade myself that an easy run across the level
ice would not carry me up to them; and yet all the while they were
upwards of a dozen miles off.
Most of the watch were "on the bran," that is, were in the boats
stationed along the edge of the ice, on the look-out for whales. A few
hands only, besides myself, were on deck, taking our fisherman's walk,
with our fingers in our pockets, and the watch below were sound asleep
in their berths, when Captain Rendall, as was his custom, went aloft
before turning in, to take a look-out for fish from his crow's-nest. We
watched him eagerly. In a few minutes he hailed the deck, with the
joyful news that at about ten miles off there was a whole run of whales,
spouting away as fast as they could blow.
On the instant, instead of the silence and tranquillity which had before
prevailed, all was now noise, excitement, and hurry. The sleepers
tumbled up from below; the harpooners got ready their gear and received
their orders from the master; the boats on the bran came alongside, to
have their kegs replenished with water, and their tubs with bread, beef,
and pork; while the more eager mates ran aloft, to assure themselves of
the best direction to take.
In a few minutes five boats were pulling out towards the run, as if the
lives of a ship's company depended on our exertions. "Hurra, my lads,
hurra! give way," shouted our boat-steerers; and give way we did indeed.
Frequently, as we pulled on, we heard the loud blasts of the narwhals,
or sea-unicorns, as they came towards the bay in shoals; and each time I
fancied we must be close upon a whale, and that the sport was about to
begin, so loud a sound did they make.
The sea-unicorn is, when full grown, from thirteen to sixteen feet long,
and has a long spiral horn or tusk growing rather on one side of its
upper jaw, of from eight to ten feet in length. The eyes are very
small, the blow-hole is directly over them, and the head is small,
blunt, and round, and the mouth cannot be opened wide. The colour, when
young, is grey, with darker spots on it, and when full grown, of a
yellowish-white. It is a very inoffensive animal. It is said to use
its horn for the purpose of breaking through the ice to breathe, and
neither to destroy its prey nor to defend itself. It swims very fast;
when struck, dives rapidly, but soon returns to the surface, and is
easily killed. We passed several shoals of them on our pull, before we
got up to the run, near a small floe.
"There she blows!" exclaimed our boat-steerer, almost in a whisper, so
great was his eagerness and fear of disturbing the fish, as a large fish
appeared close to us. We had a fine burst; the harpooner was on his
feet, and, his weapon glancing from his hand, struck the monster.
Instead, however, of diving, up he rose, clear almost from the water,
his head first, seeming, as his immense bulk appeared against the sky,
like some giant of the deep. We thought he was going to leap on to the
floe; but, suddenly plunging his head beneath the water, his tremendous
tail was lifted above us. I thought all was over. One blow from it
would have annihilated us, and dashed our boat into a thousand
fragments; but the fish, instead, dived directly down under the floe,
his tail only splashing the water over us, and we were safe.
Then arose the exciting shout of "A fall, a fall!" Other boats came
hurrying to our aid; but, alas, the line on a sudden slackened, and,
with a blank face, the harpooner began to haul it in.
The fish had shaken himself clear of the harpoon, and escaped. Mighty
must have been the force used, for the massive iron shaft was twisted
and turned as a thin piece of wire might have been bent by a turn of the
hand.
But, hurra! there are plenty more fish near; and with a will, little
disconcerted, we gave way after them. One was seen at some distance
from a floe, in which there was a crack. Now it is known that a whale
generally rises close to the nearest floe; and if there is a crack in
it, that part is selected instead of the outer edge. We got up to it
before the fish appeared; our oars were out of the water; our harpooner
standing up and watching eagerly every sign of the approach of our
expected prey, guiding by signs the boat-steerer, who, with his oar, was
silently impelling on the boat by sculling.
"Gently, boys--there's her eddy--two strokes more--now avast pulling!"
I could just see the head, and the large black mass of the monster's
back, rising slowly from the water as he spoke, forming a strong
contrast to the clear blue and white of the ice, and pure glittering
sea. Then was heard the peculiar snorting blast, as she sent up in the
air two watery jets; but in an instant we were upon her.
"Harden up, my lads!" shouted the harpooner; and a lusty stroke sent us
almost on to the monster's back; then flew forth his unerring harpoon.
For a few moments, but for a few only, the whale seemed prepared to die
without a struggle: a convulsive quiver passed through its frame; then,
lifting up its flukes, it dived down, like its predecessor, beneath the
floe. The iron had sunk in, and, raising our Blue Jack, with a loud
shout we proclaimed a fall. Out flew the line with tremendous rapidity.
Now the harpooner, sitting on his thwart, attempted to check the fish
by turning the line round the bollard; but so quickly did it pass
through his hands, shielded by mitts, that, almost in spite of the water
thrown on it, smoke ascended from the burning wood, while the bows of
the boat were drawn through the underwash to the solid floe beyond.
At times we thought the boat's bow would have been drawn under the floe;
again the line-manager let the line run out, and she rose once more, to
be drawn down directly it was checked. But it was all-important to tire
the fish, or otherwise all our line might be taken out before any
assistance could come. Should this be the case, we might, after all,
lose the fish. First one oar was elevated, to show our need of aid;
then a second, a third, and a fourth, as the line drew near what is
called the "bitter end."
"Hold on, Darby, hold on!" we shouted in our eagerness; for we feared we
might have to cut, or that the boat might be drawn under. Our shipmates
tugged away at their oars with all their might; the boats from every
direction dashing through the water to the point where they thought the
fish might rise. Our line at the very edge began to slacken--a sign
that she had ceased diving. She appeared about a quarter of a mile off
or more, at the edge of the floe.
The quick-sighted eye of the first mate was on her almost before she had
reached the surface; and before she could again seek safety in the
ocean's depths, another harpoon was plunged into her. We instantly
began hauling in our lines; but before long she was off again, swimming
away some depth below the surface, at a great rate, while we and the
other boat were towed after her. Again the strain slackened, and she
rose once more; but this time her foes were close to her. Another
harpoon was struck, but it was needless. Without mercy lances were
thrust into her on every side, till the shouts which reached our ears,
as we slowly approached, hauling in our lines, proclaimed that our
victory was complete. The fish was now secured, as I have before
described, and made fast to a floe, while all but one boat made chase
after another fish which blew temptingly near.
I ought to have said that, after securing the whale, all hands turned to
with a right good-will to attack the bread and meat we had with us; for
though whale-hunting beats hollow any other style of hunting, whether of
deer, elephants, or tigers, yet it cannot by any manner of means be
carried on without sustenance to the frame.
Away we went, then, the boat of the first mate leading. He, too, was
successful in striking the fish. Three times she dived; but each time
one or other of her enemies were upon her with harpoon and lances, while
her eddying wake was dyed with blood, and a thick pellicle of oil, which
attracted crowds of persevering Mollies to feast on it, marked her
course.
She at last rose close to a floe, when we all rushed in upon her. The
cry of "Stern all!" was given. Her death-flurry had come on. High up
in the air she sent a stream of blood and oil, which fell thick upon us
in showers of spray, and on a hummock which was near; and the edges of
the ice were dyed of a crimson tint.
The weariness which began to oppress even the strongest, told us that we
had had work enough, and that a second night was approaching. With
shouts of satisfaction, we now began the task of towing our prizes to
the ship. It was slow and wearying work; but every fish we took brought
us nearer home, so we set cheerfully about it.
When we at length reached the ship, we found that we had been full
thirty-six hours away, nearly all the time in active exertion; and yet,
from the excitement of the work, neither did we feel unusually weary,
nor were we aware of the time which had passed.
I must remind my readers that this could only happen in a latitude and
at a period where there is little or no difference between night and
day. Our fishing was most successful, partly owing to our good fortune
in meeting with the fish, but owing also much to the sagacity of our
captain and his officers.
Similar scenes were occurring every day; but though they were all nearly
as exciting, and the interest of the sport was never decreased, but
rather grew on us, yet, if I were to attempt to describe each chase, and
how each fish was killed, my readers would weary with the account.
For the greater part of a month we remained in the bay; and now the fish
becoming scarce, and the summer drawing to a conclusion, with a fair
breeze we made sail to the southward.
I spoke of our having passed Lancaster Sound, a short way to the south
of which Pond's Bay is situated. I did not mention at the time the
interest with which I regarded that vast inlet--the mouth, one cannot
help fancying, to the unknown sea which bounds the northern shores of
the American continent. I certainly think more of it now, while I am
writing, than I did then, because I have since become aware of the many
gallant exploits which have been there performed, and the bold attempts
which have been made to pierce through it to the seas beyond.
I need scarcely remind my readers that up that passage the veteran
arctic explorer, Sir John Franklin, and his brave companions, are
supposed to have proceeded. Under his command, the _Erebus_ and
_Terror_ sailed from the Thames on the 26th May, 1845, to proceed up
Davis's Straits, then into Lancaster Sound, and from thence, without
stopping, to examine the coast, to push westward as fast as they could
towards Behring's Straits.
Captain Crozier had command of the _Terror_; and the expedition was
accompanied by the transport _Bonetto Junior_, commanded by Lieutenant
Griffith, and laden with provisions, clothing, etcetera, to be put on
board the ships in Davis's Straits. Both vessels were fitted with
steam-engines and screw-propellers; but they did not go ahead with them
more than three knots an hour. Lieutenant Griffith reports "that he
left them with every species of provisions for three entire years,
independently of five bullocks; they had also stores for the same time,
and fuel in abundance."
The expedition was last seen by the _Prince of Wales_ whaler, on the
26th July, in latitude 74 degrees 48 minutes north, longitude 66 degrees
13 minutes west, moored to an iceberg, and waiting for an opening in the
great body of ice, which I described as filling the middle of Baffin's
Bay, in order to reach the entrance of Lancaster Sound. All hands were
well and in high spirits, and determined to succeed, if success were
possible; but since that day they have never been heard of.
Year after year have those gallant men in vain been looked for, but not
without hope of their return, nor without attempts made to discover and
rescue them.
When the year 1848 arrived, and no tidings had been received of the lost
voyagers, it was determined to send out three expeditions to look for
them. One under Captain Kellett, who commanded the _Herald_ and Captain
Moore, who commanded the _Plover_; proceeded to Behring's Straits, and
after continuing along the American coast as far as they could go, they
were to despatch some whale-boats, to meet a second expedition under Sir
John Richardson and Dr Rae, who were to descend the Mackenzie River,
and there to examine the coast; while Sir James Ross, commanding the
_Enterprise_, and Captain Bird, the _Investigator_, were to proceed at
once to Lancaster Sound, and there to examine the coast as they
proceeded.
After leaving deposits of food and directions in several places, these
expeditions returned, without having discovered any traces of our
missing countrymen.
Notwithstanding the ill-success of the first set of expeditions, others
were without delay determined on. Captain Collinson was appointed to
command the _Enterprise_, having under him Commander McClure in the
_Investigator_; and on the 20th of January, 1850, they sailed from
Plymouth for Behring's Straits, where they were to be joined by the
_Plover_. They were to endeavour to reach Melville Island.
In the meantime, Dr Rae, who had remained in America, was ordered to
continue his search along the northern coast; while the Government of
the United States prepared an expedition for the same purpose. The
British Government likewise fitted out four ships, under the command of
Captain Austin, in the _Resolute_; the _Assistance_, Captain Ommanney;
the _Pioneer_; Lieutenant Osborn; and the _Free Trader_--the two latter
screw-propeller steam-vessels.
Two private expeditions have also started. The _Lady Franklin_ is
commanded by Mr Penny, a veteran whaling captain, who has with him a
fine brig as a tender, called the _Sophia_. Captain Penny was to be
guided by circumstances, in following the course he judged expedient.
Besides this, the veteran explorer, Sir John Ross, has taken command of
another private expedition. He is on board the _Felix_, a large
schooner, and has the _Mary_, a tender of twelve tons, with him. They
also are to proceed to Barrow Straits, and to examine various headlands
on their way. The _Mary_ is to be left at Banks' Land, as a vessel of
retreat, and the _Felix_ will proceed for another year as far as she can
to the westward, examining the coast on the way.
These last expeditions have been fitted out in consequence of the
energetic and persevering efforts of Lady Franklin, and the niece of Sir
John Franklin, Miss Sophia Cracroft; and those who have seen them, month
after month, indefatigably labouring in that, to them, holy cause,
hoping almost at times against hope, yet still undaunted, persevering
unweariedly, must feel and heartily pray that they may have their reward
in the happy return of the long-missing ones.
I was unable to refrain from giving this brief sketch of a subject in
which every man worthy of the name of Briton must feel the deepest and
warmest interest; and I now resume the thread of my more humble
narrative.