For several days, during which we captured another whale, we were
cruising about, in the hopes of finding a passage through the ice. We
were now joined by a squadron of six other ships, all bent on the same
object that we were, to find our way across Baffin's Bay to a spot
called Pond's Bay, which has been found, of late years, to be frequented
by a large number of whales.
I have before forgot to mention the great length of the days; indeed,
for some time past there had scarcely been any night. Now, for the
first time in my life, I saw the sun set and rise at midnight. It was
my first watch; and, as eight bells were struck, the sun, floating
majestically on the horizon, began again its upward course through the
sky. On the other side the whole sky was tinged with a rich pink glow,
while the sky above was of a deep clear blue. I could scarcely tear
myself from the spectacle, till old David laughed heartily at me for
remaining on deck when it was my watch below. Now was the time to push
onward, if we could once penetrate the ice. We had worked our way to
the east, in the hopes of there finding a passage.
"Land on the starboard bow!" shouted the second mate from the
crow's-nest. Still on we sailed, till we saw it clearly from the deck.
Lofty black rocks were peeping out from amid snow-capped heights, and
eternal glaciers glittering in the sunbeams. In the foreground were
icebergs tinged with many varied hues. Deep valleys appeared running up
far inland; and above all, in the distance, were a succession of
towering mountain ranges, reaching to the sky. Still on we sailed.
"Well, lad, how long do you think it would take you to pull on shore
now?" asked old David.
"Better than half-an-hour, in a whale-boat, with a good crew," I
answered, thinking the distance was about four or five miles.
The old whaler chuckled, in the way he always did when he had got, what
he called, the weather-gauge of me.
"Now I tell you it would take you three good hours, with the best crew
that ever laid hand on oar, and the fastest boat, too, to get from this
ship to that shore."
"Come now, David, you are passing your jokes off on a greenhorn," I
replied. "Why, if the water was not cold, I don't think I should find
much difficulty in swimming there, when we got a little closer in."
This answer produced a fresh succession of chuckles. Still on we
sailed; and I confess that at the end of an hour we appeared no nearer
than before.
"Well, what do you think of it now?" asked old David.
"Why, that there must be a strong current against us, setting off
shore," I answered, wishing to show my knowledge.
He replied that there was no current, and that I was wrong. Another
half-hour passed, and still we did not seem to have gained ground.
"What do you think of our being off Cape Flyaway, youngster?" asked
David, pretending to be alarmed. "Did you never hear speak of that?
The longer you sail after it the farther off it goes, till it takes you
right round the world. If that's it, and I don't say it isn't, it will
be long enough before we get back to old England again." Having thus
delivered himself, he walked away, to avoid being questioned.
Tom Stokes, who was near me, and, as I have said, was very fond of
reading, heard his remark.
"Do you know, Peter, I am not certain that what David says is altogether
wrong," he remarked, in a mysterious manner. "I have just been reading
in a book an account of a voyage made many centuries ago by a Danish
captain to these seas. His name was Rink, but I forget the name of the
ship. His crew consisted of eighty stout brave fellows; but when they
got up here, some of the bravest were frightened with the wonders they
beheld--the monsters of the deep, the fogs, the snows, and the mountains
of ice--and at last they saw at no great distance a high picturesque
land on which they wished to land, but though they sailed rapidly on, or
appeared to sail, they got no nearer to it. This increased the alarm
they already felt. One-half of the crew were of opinion that the land
itself moved away from them; the others that there were some powerful
loadstone rocks somewhere astern, which kept the ship back. At last
Captain Rink finding a northerly breeze spring up, and being somewhat
short of provisions, put up the helm and ran home, every one on board
giving a different account of the wonders they had seen, but all
agreeing that it was a region of ice-demons and snow-spirits, and that
they would never, if they could help it, venture there again."
For some hours we continued much of Captain Rink's opinion, till at last
I had an opportunity of asking Andrew what he thought about the matter.
He then told me that, on account of the clearness of the atmosphere, and
the brightness of the snow-covered hills or icy plains, they appear to a
person unaccustomed to look on them to be very much nearer than they
really are. He assured me that it would be a long time before I should
be able to judge of distances; and that he had known a person mistake a
few stunted shrubs appearing above the snow a few yards off for a forest
in the distance, while land many miles off appeared, as it had to me,
close at hand.
It was evening, or I should rather say near midnight, when we really got
close in, when we found that the valleys were magnificent fiords, or
gulfs running far inland, and that the rocks and icebergs were of vast
height. As we sailed along the coast, nothing could be more beautiful
than the different effects of light and shade--the summits of the
distant inland ranges shining in the sunlight like masses of gold, and
the icebergs in the foreground tinged with the most beautiful and
dazzling colours.
Beautiful as was the scene, I had no idea that any civilised beings
dwelt in such a region of eternal snows. What was my surprise, then, to
find the ship brought to an anchor off a small town called Leifly,
belonging to the Danes! They have several small colonies along the
coast, at each of which are stationed missionaries engaged in the pious
work of converting the Esquimaux to Christianity.
I thought that where we lay at anchor was directly under the overhanging
cliffs; but I found, from the time the boat took reaching the shore,
that we were several miles off. Several Esquimaux canoes came off to
the ship to barter with us. One man sits in each boat, which is so long
and narrow, that one is surprised it should be able to encounter the
slightest sea. The whole is decked over, except a round opening, in
which they seat themselves.
All these people were Christians; and in each canoe was a strip of paper
stuck in a thong under the deck, on which were written, in Danish,
passages from the Scriptures. They were comfortably dressed in sealskin
coats, trousers, and boots, with a sealskin helmet. Their heads were
large, with a narrow, retreating forehead; strong, coarse black hair,
flat nose, full lips, almost beardless chin, and full lustrous black
eyes--not beauties, certainly, but the expression was very amiable, and
so was their conduct.
We had to lower a boat to assist them on deck when they came alongside,
for otherwise they would not have been able to get out of their crank
barks without capsizing. The way they manage is as follows:--Two canoes
bring up alongside each other, the man in the outer one passing his
paddle through a thong which stretches across the deck of the inner one,
which it thus steadies till the owner can get out. The inner canoe is
then hauled out of the way, and another pulls up on the outside. The
last canoe is held by the gunwale till the occupant steps out. They all
appeared ready to render each other this assistance. The canoe is
called a "kajack."
The kajacks being hauled on deck, we began our barter. We had to give
old clothes, red and yellow cotton handkerchiefs, biscuits, coffee,
earthenware bowls, needles, and many other little things; for which they
exchanged sealskins, sealskin trousers, caps, slippers, gloves, and
tobacco-bags. These articles were very neatly sewed with sinew thread.
Our negotiations being completed in the most amicable manner, they took
their departure much in the way in which they had arrived.
I afterwards went ashore in the boat, and saw their huts, which were
better, I am ashamed to say, than many I had seen in Ireland. Many of
them were nearly built of the bones of the whale, which had an odd
appearance. There were heaps of filth in front, and troops of
ill-favoured dogs were prowling about them.
I saw some of their women, the elder ones being the most hideous-looking
of the human race I ever beheld. They wore their hair gathered in a
large knot at the top of the head; but in other respects they were
dressed exactly like the men, in sealskin garments. Whatever business
took us there was soon completed; and once more, in company with several
other ships, we commenced our struggle with the ice-monsters of the
deep. Our course was still northerly, as what is called the "middle
ice" fills up the centre of the bay in impenetrable masses; and it is
only by working round it to the north, where it has drifted away from
the coast, that a passage to the west side can be effected.
Soon after sailing, we were frozen into a sheet of bay ice for some
days. It was slight, and in many places could scarcely bear the weight
of a man. Indeed, there were in every direction pools of water, which
for some reason or other did not freeze. Our captain had been for some
time in the crow's-nest, looking out for a sign of the breaking up of
the ice, when he observed several whales rising in the pools. He
instantly ordered the smaller boats to be lowered, and worked through
and over the ice to the pools, with harpooners ready to strike any whale
which might rise in them. Meantime he armed himself with a harpoon, and
ordered others to follow with lances, each with ice-shoes on his feet.
The first man carried the end of a line, and the rest laid hold of it at
intervals; so that, should any fall in, they might be able to draw
themselves out again. We had not long to wait before a whale was
struck, and out flew the line from the boat. So thin was the ice, that
we could see the monster through it, as he swam along close under it.
Away he went; but, losing breath, he knocked a hole in the ice with his
head, to get some fresh air. We followed, but at first he was too quick
for us, and had dived again before we came up with him.
We had to look out to avoid the place he had broken as we made chase
after him. Our captain took the lead without a rope, going at a great
rate in his snow-shoes. He saw the whale close under him, and had just
got his harpoon ready to strike through the ice, when up came the fish
under the very spot where he stood, and we saw him skip off in a
tremendous hurry, or he to a certainty would have gone in, and perhaps
have been drawn down when the whale started off again.
Instead of this, he boldly went to the very edge of the ice, and while
the whale was blowing, he darted his harpoon deep into his neck. The
whale continued his course, but so much slower than before, that we got
up to him, and striking our lances through the ice whenever he touched
it, we soon despatched him. As he had no means of breathing under the
ice, he died quietly, and was dragged up by the line of the first
harpoon which struck him; and, by breaking the ice so as to let the line
pass, he was hauled up to the ship.
Scarcely was the first secured than a second one was struck, and away we
went after him, hallooing, shouting, and laughing. The first man was a
little fellow, though, I believe, he cracked the ice. At all events, we
had not gone a hundred yards when in fell three men, one after the
other; but they did not mind, and by means of the rope they were soon
out again, and in chase of our prey.
Poor Stokes got in twice, and I once, to the great amusement of the
rest; however, very few escaped without a wetting, so that the laugh was
not entirely against us. We succeeded in killing the fish, and I do not
know whether it was not as exciting as chasing him in the water; at all
events there was more fun and novelty, and that is what a sailor likes.
A fair breeze at length sprung up, which, bringing warmer weather, and
enabling us to spread our canvas with effect, we cut away the ice round
the ship, and then she, with her strong bows, forced a passage through
it. While the wind lasted, with every yard of canvas alow and aloft the
ship could carry, we pressed our onward way--sometimes among floes,
threatening every instant to close in and nip us; at other times with
drift and brash-ice surrounding us; and at others amid open ice, with
here and there floating icebergs appearing near us.
To one of these we had to moor, on account of a shift of wind, which
blew strong in our teeth; and at first, when I turned into my berth, I
did not sleep as securely as usual, from remembering Andrew's account of
one toppling over and crushing a ship beneath it. However, I need
scarcely say that that feeling very soon wore off. The objects gained
by mooring to an iceberg are several. In the first place, from so large
a proportion of the mass being below the water, the wind has little
effect on it, and therefore the ship loses no ground; then it shields
her from the drift-ice as it passes by, and she has also smooth water
under its lee. Casting off from the iceberg, as did our consorts from
those to which they had been moored, when the wind again became
favourable, we continued our course.
We were now approaching the most dangerous part of our voyage, the
passage across Melville Bay, which may be considered the north-eastern
corner of Baffin's Bay. Ships may be sailing among open ice, when, a
south-westerly wind springing up, it may suddenly be pressed down upon
them with irresistible force, and they may be nipped or totally
destroyed.
All this I learned from old David, who was once here when upwards of
twelve ships were lost in sight of each other, though the crews escaped
by leaping on the ice.
"Remember, youngster, such may be our fate one of these days; and we
shall be fortunate if we have another ship at hand to take us on board,"
he remarked.
I never knew whether he uttered this not over-consolatory observation
for my benefit, to remind me how, at any moment, the lives of us all
might be brought to an end, or to amuse himself by watching its effect
on me.
For a week we threaded our way among the open floes, when a solid field
seemed to stop our further progress. This had been seen hours before,
from the unbroken ice-blink playing over it. Our captain was in the
crow's-nest, looking out for a lane through which the ship might pass
till clear water was gained. After waiting, and sailing along the edge
of the field for some time, some clear water was discovered at the
distance of three or four miles, and to it our captain determined that
we should cut our way. The ice-saws were accordingly ordered, to be got
ready, with a party to work them, on the ice. I was one of them; and,
while we cut the canal, the ship was warped up, ready to enter the space
we formed.
The ice-saw is a very long iron saw, and has a weight attached to the
lower end. A triangle of spars is formed, with a block in the centre,
through which a rope, attached to the upper part of the saw, is rove.
The slack end of the rope is held by a party of men. When they run away
from the triangle, the saw rises, and when they slack the rope, the
weight draws it down, as the sawyer in a sawpit would do. As the saw
performs its work, the triangles are moved from the edge of the ice. As
the pieces were cut, they were towed away, and shoved along to the mouth
of the canal.
All the time we were at work, some of the men with good voices led a
song, in the chorus of which we all joined; and I must say we worked
away with a will. It was harder work when we had to haul out the bits
of ice, the ship being towed into the canal. With a cheerful shout we
completed our canal, and got the ships into a natural lane; and the rest
following close upon our track, we worked our way along for many miles,
by what is called tracking.
This operation is very similar to the way a canal-boat is dragged along
a canal through the green fields of England, only that men have, in the
case I am describing, to do the work of horses. A tow-rope was made
fast to the fore-mast, and about a third of each ship's company were
ordered to drag their respective ship ahead. Away we went, as usual,
with song and laughter, tramping along the ice for miles together, and
towing our homes, like snails, after us.
For several days we continued the same work; and afterwards, when we got
out of the lanes, and the ice was found broken, or so irregular that it
was impossible to walk over it, we had to carry out ice-claws, or what
may be called ice-kedges, to warp the ship ahead. The ice-claws
grappled hold of the ice, and the warp being then carried round the
capstan, or windlass, we hove in on it, just as if we were heaving up an
anchor, only that this work continued for hour after hour, and days and
nights in succession, without intermission.
Ten days passed away much in the manner I have described. We then got
into comparatively clear water for a few hours, during which time the
other ships joined us. As there was no wind, we had to tow the ship
ahead in the boats, so that there was no cessation of our labours.
"Well," I exclaimed to old David, "I suppose after all this we shall
soon get into an open sea again."
"Don't be too sure of that, or of anything else, lad," he answered. "We
have not yet got into the thick of it, let me tell you."
I found that his words were too true. The boats had been hoisted in,
for a breeze had sprung up, and we were progressing favourably, when we
came to some large floes. The openings between them were wide, and
without hesitation we proceeded through them. On a sudden these vast
masses were seen in motion, slowly moving round and round, without any
apparent cause. The captain hailed from the crow's-nest, ordering the
ice-saws to be got ready, and the ship to be steered towards one of the
largest floes close on the larboard bow. The sails were clewed up, and
the ice-claws being carried out, the ship was hauled close up to it; and
while the captain and carpenters were measuring out a dock, a party, of
which I was one, set to work with the saws.
There was no time to be lost. A moment too late, and our stout ship
might be cracked like a walnut, and we might all be cast homeless on the
bleak expanse of ice to perish miserably. The floes were approaching
rapidly, grinding and crushing against one another, now overlapping each
other; or, like wild horses fighting desperately, rearing up against
each other, and with terrific roar breaking into huge fragments.
"Bear a hand, my lads; bear a hand, that's good fellows. We'll not be
nipped this time if we can help it," sung out the officers in a cheering
tone to encourage us, though the anxious looks they cast towards the
approaching masses showed that their confidence was more assumed than
real.
Whatever we thought, we worked and sung away as if we were engaged in
one of the ordinary occupations of life, and that, though we were in a
hurry, there was no danger to be apprehended. The dock was cut
long-wise into the ice the length of the ship, which was to be hauled in
stern first. As there was every appearance of a heavy pressure, the ice
at the inner part of the dock was cut into diamond-shaped pieces, so
that, when the approaching floe should press on the bows, the vessel
might sustain the pressure with greater ease, by either driving the
pieces on to the ice, or rising over them.
The crews of all the other ships were engaged in the same way, but, as
may be supposed, we had little time to attend to them. Our captain was
engaged in superintending our operations; but I saw him cast many an
anxious glance towards our advancing foes.
For an instant, he ran to the side of the ship and hailed the deck.
"Mr Todd," he said, "it will be as well to get some casks of
provisions, the men's clothes, and a few spare sails for tents, and
such-like things, you know, ready on deck, in case the nip should come
before we can get into dock."
"Ay, ay, sir," answered the mate, not a bit disconcerted; and with the
few hands remaining on board he set about obeying our commander's
somewhat ominous directions.
I ought to have said that the rudder had at the first been unshipped and
slung across the stern, as it stands to reason that when pressed against
by the ice it should be the first thing injured. Still we worked away.
We had begun to saw the loose pieces at the head of the dock.
"Hurra, my lads! knock off, and bear a hand to haul her in," shouted out
the captain; "no time to be lost."
With a right good will we laid hold of the warps, and towing and fending
off the ship's bows from the outer edge of the ice, we got her safely
into the dock. We then set to work to cut up the pieces. We completed
our labours not a moment too soon; for before we had got on board again,
the tumult, which had been long raging in the distance, came with
increased fury around us, and we had reason to be grateful to Heaven
that we were placed in a situation of comparative safety.