Examination of the gunpowder.--Tinta in disgrace.--The remedy.--
The scribes, or dupteraoitsh.--Their mode of writing.--Audience
with the Negoos.--Memolagee.--College of priests.--My new
residence.--Night of storm.--Uncomfortable situation.--Weather
clears up.
I declined taking a seat in the waiting-room outside the palace-courts,
as I thought that by being reported waiting at the gate, I might be
called sooner to an audience with the Negoos. It was not long before
Tinta, who had already arrived at the palace, came to inform me that
after some little business was concluded with the superior of the
Church in Shoa, the Negoos would see me. A crowd of idle courtiers had
now surrounded me, amusing themselves with the gunpowder, tasting it,
smelling it, and giving their opinion, and questioning Walderheros how
it was made. A judicious silence, however, obtained for my servant the
credit of knowing fully how it was prepared; he was wise enough to
keep his ignorance to himself, and then, as he remarked afterwards,
nobody knew anything about it. Tinta had also got something to ask me,
but as it was very private, and there was no other place to retreat
to, he spoke to the outer gatekeeper, who admitted us both into the
intervening space between the only two stockades which surround the
palace of Myolones. Walderheros and the King’s scribe, who had been
sent to take notes of the process and relative weights of the different
articles used in manufacturing gunpowder, also accompanied us, and I
then found that my system of weights and measures, by leaden bullets
and table-spoonsful had quite bothered them; and a most extraordinary
report of the business had been drawn up, which the Negoos soon
detected to be erroneous, and had expressed himself very dissatisfied
with them. They therefore now applied to me to assist them in their
dilemma, and we accordingly sat down upon some large stones, and
occupied ourselves for some time in getting a proper statement written
down to restore the Negoos to good humour, and my two friends again
into favour.
A scribe, or “duptera,” as he is called in Shoa, appears to be an
inferior order of priest, at least it is their first degree, and
which is acquired by merely being able to read and write; nor is it
requisite to pay a visit to Gondar, the seat of the Abune, or Bishop
of all Abyssinia, as is the case when priests are to be ordained.
The usual occupation of the scribes is principally to transcribe
manuscripts for the Negoos, who has a most extraordinary desire to be
possessed of copies of all the works in the Geez language, and to
procure which, or, if possible, the originals themselves, he expends
annually a considerable sum. These manuscript books are all written
upon parchment, and bound, most frequently, into a volume about the
size of a folio. The backs are made of two thin boards, covered with
red leather, which is ornamented very tastefully by borders and
designs impressed by iron stamps; and for the means they have at their
disposal, the Abyssinians produce in this manner very creditable
specimens of book-binding. For farther protection, it is usual to have
a small leathern case, which receives the book, and a flap strapped
down then secures it from all accidents.
When engaged writing, the duptera sits upon the ground, takes from
out of his girdle an ink-horn, the tapering extremity of which being
reduced to a kind of spike, he sticks into the earth by his side. The
ink is a composition of powdered charcoal and gum arabic or myrrh,
with a little water, and a very permanent ink is thus produced. I may
observe, that excepting in the manufacture of ink, the Abyssinians of
Shoa have no other use for the gum myrrh, and I have frequently been
asked, “What else could it be used for?” As for using this gum as
medicine themselves, or giving it for that purpose to their cattle or
horses, they have no idea of any such thing; neither have the Dankalli,
from whose country it is brought into Shoa.
Having placed his ink-horn in the earth, the scribe then produces
a small leathern case, in which he generally carries a supply of
parchment, a few reed pens, and a large pair of scissors, to clip
off the ridiculously small pieces of parchment upon which the Shoans
write their ordinary letters, which have not, sometimes, a surface
of more than one inch. A pen being formed, it is carefully examined
by thumb-nail and eye, and is then either nibbled, to make it soft,
or if it be too soft already, it is made finer by means of a large
dinner-knife, which is generally carried in a small slip, in the
scabbard of the crooked sword that curls its point nearly up to the
shoulder of the right side, on which it is always worn. Everything
being arranged, the parchment is held fast upon the knee by one hand,
whilst the long and careful inscription is being made. The process of
writing the shortest note is a very tedious one, for every letter is a
capital, and although the Geez character, as a syllabic alphabet, is
the most correct of any with which I am acquainted, and best suited
for conveying exact sounds, still the required attention to the proper
situation of the small vowel points, occasions considerable delay.
Having given Tinta the required information, which was all carefully
written down by the duptera, they left Walderheros and myself for a few
moments, whilst they went in to the Negoos, with the improved report.
In a very few minutes Tinta returned, and beckoning for me to come,
as he appeared at the wicket in the second enclosure, I got up, and
followed by Walderheros, entered the inner court, where I found the
Negoos reposing upon a couch placed on one side of the porch, that
leads into the principal apartment of the palace. All the buildings
were of the same description as those of the other Royal residences,
consisting of a wall of splintered ted, six or seven feet high,
plastered inside with common red clay, and thatched. Outside from the
projecting eaves were hung in great numbers, the disgusting trophies of
Abyssinian warfare stuffed with dry grass.
My memolagee, on the occasion of this visit was, the gunpowder, which,
although Tinta had carried it in previously, with the written account
of the mode of preparing it, had been returned to Walderheros, so
that I might deliver it in person. The usual Arab word “_kaphanter_,”
did duty for “How do you do?” and, disfigured as the countenance of
the monarch is by one sightless orb, which is more striking from its
mottle pearly hue, contrasting with the dark brown colour of his
face, still, I consider, the expression of the monarch’s features to
be pleasing and good-natured. He received the bottle containing the
gunpowder, and uncorking it, poured out a little into the palm of his
hand, and examined it attentively, and evidently with the eye of a man
of business. Sahale Selassee, in fact, is particularly interested in
the production of a good article of the kind, as, could he command a
good supply of gunpowder, he would, I am convinced, greatly extend his
conquests. After some examination, he pronounced it to be genuine; and
I then found that he questioned, or at least, suspected, that it might
he adulterated. A previous traveller had attempted to practise upon the
Negoos, by representing as having been made in Shoa, some gunpowder
he had brought with him from Europe, and who had been detected by the
knowledge of a little fact, which it had been presumed, that the clever
monarch was not aware of. The saltpetre obtained in Shoa, although very
plentiful, abounds with another salt, that not decomposing by explosion
leaves a residium of white globules which, besides fouling the barrels
of the guns, deteriorates, considerably, the exploding effects of the
powder; so much so, that an ordinary charge for a common musket, is two
or three large handsful, and it is nothing unusual to see the ram-rod,
after loading, projecting twelve, or even eighteen inches beyond the
muzzle. The presence of this salt occasions the powder to be of a very
light grey colour, not unlike wood-ashes. From not possessing any
chemical tests, I was unable to decide its mineral character, but I
supposed it to be the nitrate of soda.
Besides the gunpowder, I had taken with me, not as a memolagee, but as
a present for the Queen, a beautifully worked black lace veil, which
had been made for a very different personage, and for a more suitable
character, a bright-eyed daughter of Spain. Not, however, having been
thrown upon the southern coast of that country during the past three
years, and considering it was not very likely that I should be for the
next two or three more, I determined to return the politeness of the
Queen of Shoa, by presenting it to her, as she had sent me presents of
wheaten bread, with inquiries after my health, several times during
the last month. Of course, I had no chance of giving it into her
own hands as, like all the other of the Royal wives and concubines,
she is carefully secluded from the gaze of ordinary mortals. Her
name, _Bashabish_, conveys a compliment of no little meaning, being
literally, “By thee I have increased,” which alludes to the two sons
with which she has blessed Sahale Selassee; the elder, named Hylo
Malakoot, and the younger, Safie Selassee, or the “Sword of the
Trinity,” as his father’s name signifies the “Given of the Trinity.”
The latter is the favourite son, and as the crown is not hereditary,
but the King nominates his successor; as David, we are told, in like
manner, chose his son Solomon, above all his elder brethren; so, to all
appearances, Safie Selassee, on the demise of his father, will succeed
to the throne in prejudice to his brother. Besides these children, the
Negoos has one or two daughters by his favourite wife, Bashabish.
When I presented the veil, it created quite a commotion, for its novel
texture and the embroidered pattern surprised and gratified the Negoos
exceedingly. He threw it over his face to look through it, tried the
strength of the thread, and seemed much amused at the idea of its
being merely a “_guftah_” (woman’s head dress), for he had taken it
to be intended for some dignitary of the Church, to be worn over the
shoulders. However, the usual “Egzeer ista,” and what I required from
him, being asked, after I had stated that I had only to return my
thanks for the house he had given to me, and had no request to make,
the usual abrupt recommendation of me to the care of Heaven, and “you
may go,” terminated the interview.
I was not taken back to the shed outside the palace courts, but into
a much more comfortable apartment between the two stockades, where I
found several priests sitting upon the ground on low chairs, employed
perusing a book themselves, or attending to some boys, who, in the
usual school tone, were practising a reading lesson, that I was told
soon after I went in was a chapter of St. Luke. A few pupils were
also receiving their first instructions in writing. It appeared that
this was a religious institution connected with the palace, being the
residence of these priests, who about midnight begin chanting their
orisons, and keep the howling concert up until daylight. How it is
possible for the Negoos, or any one residing within ear-shot of them,
to sleep, I do not know, but I do not exaggerate when I say, that to my
ears their holy exercises sounded a deal more inhuman, than the noise
made by a pack of famished wolves. The priests, however, appeared a
good-natured set, and soon spread an oxskin upon the loose dry grass,
that appeared to be collected in large quantities for the purpose
of forming soft beds for the holy fathers, all of whom, with their
pupils, occupied this thatched apartment. I considered that it formed
a good counterpart of the character of the college of Oxford in the
days of King Alfred, and looked with interest upon its inmates, when
I reflected, that probably their habits and feelings assimilated with
those of the earliest teachers of our celebrated University.
A bright fire of wood crackled upon the low hearth, and I threw myself
upon my littered couch by its side. No inducement existed to tempt me
into the open air, for the sky had now become covered with low grey
clouds, whilst a heavy mist hid the high romantic cliffs of Kundi, that
close around the head of the valley of Myolones. Sometimes a puff of
wind rolled along before it, a huge cloud of the condensed moisture,
that for a few minutes enveloped the precincts of the palace in a dense
fog. A thought of rain, however, did not trouble me, for I was in most
comfortable quarters, on very good terms with the learned monks, and
as Walderheros had been sent for to the palace, and returned with two
bottles of the barilla tedge, I enjoyed myself exceedingly.
“A change came o’er the spirit of the dream,” for towards evening I
began to feel exceedingly hungry, and urged Walderheros to prepare me
something to eat, as not only had bread, honey, butter, onions, and,
in fact, everything required to make a sumptuous repast, been sent
from the palace, but a sheep also. I soon learnt that the reluctance
on this occasion shewn by my servant to do as I desired him was, that
the present time being a strict fast, the monks would not allow their
place to be desecrated by anything like food being cooked in it. Not
relishing the poor fare which, it seems, they are restricted to during
this fast of fourteen days, I sent Walderheros to the palace requesting
an indulgence; and in about half an hour he came back, bringing with
him Goodaloo, who had remained outside all this time with the crowd of
retainers and servants, who are not allowed the privilege of the entrée
of the palace. They soon collected my bed-clothes and presents, having
intimated to me that a fresh place had been appointed, where I could
have the sheep killed and cook whatever I liked.
The monks were anxious that I should understand that it was public
principle alone that occasioned their apparent inhospitality, and I
readily excused it; for they could not have consistently enforced a
strict observance of the fast among the household of the Negoos, and
yet have allowed animals to have been slaughtered in their presence,
and flesh meat cooked under their roof.
Tinta, as usual, appeared with his servants to superintend my removal,
and after passing out of the outer gate and through the little belt
of ted and wild olive trees that encircle the palace, we proceeded a
short distance down the valley, where were three or four tents pitched,
and I then saw one of these was intended for me. My illness, however,
had made me rather particular, and instantly I saw that I was about to
be quartered in such a residence as that, I objected, pointing very
feelingly to the sloppy spongy turf, and the dirty-looking clouds that
floated lazily above our heads. At the request of Tinta, however, I
went to look at the accommodations, and was certainly better satisfied,
when I found that one larger tent outside enclosed a very snug new one,
leaving a large space between the two surfaces. Besides, a high and
very commodious alga, or bedstead, had been brought, so that, excepting
from the vapour rising from the moist earth, I could be in no danger of
being exposed to any damp, and feeling pleased at the arrangements that
had been made for my comfort, I raised no more objections, but took my
place upon the bed, and after a bright fire had been lighted upon a
temporary hearth of large stones, Tinta and his train departed, leaving
me to enjoy myself, until Walderheros should have prepared supper, by
reading a pocket volume of “Childe Harold” I had brought with me.
It was not long after the sun had set behind a high bank of clouds
than a drizzling rain came on, and although I did not like this symptom
of a wet night, I was satisfied by Goodaloo going and procuring a hoe,
with which he soon pecked up, around the outside tent, a large gutter
to carry off, and thus prevent the water that might fall, spreading
over the floor inside. After seeing this done, and partaking of supper,
I soon fell fast asleep, as comfortably as if I had remained in the
warm close-thatched residence of my learned friends.
Before midnight, however, the storm that had been brewing the two or
three days previously around the cliffs of Aramba, Kundi, and Mamrat,
progressed gradually but rapidly to its fullest development. The Scotch
mist of the evening increased to a sharp rain, which soon after came
down as if the windows of heaven had opened, and another deluge was
approaching; in a very short time, not only were both tents soaking,
but before I awoke even, every article of clothing I had on was
completely wet through. The fire, fortunately, had been kept in, and
a large bundle of wood having been placed between the two tents, we
were in no fear of being left without that comfort. The first thing,
when I awoke to the misery of my situation, was to send Walderheros to
the house situated outside of the palace stockade, but he could get no
attention paid to his representations, they were all as bad off, they
said, as myself, the new roof of their apartment letting in water at
every part. He was equally unsuccessful at the palace, for no one could
be made to hear the loud summons at the outer gate, the cold and rain
having driven in the wardens to some retreat, and probably amidst the
noise of the tempest man’s voice was lost; so Walderheros, after some
time, returned to the tent unsuccessful, and nearly half drowned.
The night would have just suited Byron, provided he had been wrapt up
in some good macintoshes, for now increased the fierce contention of
the elements of fire and water. Thunder in the distance boomed heavily,
and, quick as the blow of wrath, its dinning _rat tat_ seemed to break
the electric cloud directly over head; whilst bright leaping flashes
of the most vivid lightning pierced the darkness of tempest and of
night with a moment’s triumph. Like a bright spear-head glaring for
an instant upon a broad buckler of dingy hide, night’s darkness, more
darkly opposed the recoiling shaft of light, and the muttering echo of
the retiring peal, seemed to curse the innoxious effect of its spent
force upon earth and her inhabitants.
I sat upon my heels shivering in the middle of my rude bedstead, where
the concavity that formed by my weight being in the centre of my hide
mattress, made a good pickling tub, and I was very soon ankle deep in a
pool of water, whilst to increase the pleasantness of our situation,
the rain succeeded, against every endeavour to prevent it, in putting
out the fire.
It was a sad night, and most uncomfortable were my forebodings, whilst
Goodaloo, silent and stirless, never moved from the position he had
taken after the last vain attempts to keep up a blaze. Walderheros
seemed to talk faster the faster it rained, now anathematizing the lazy
occupants of the outhouse, then trying to convince me of his superhuman
efforts to arouse the gate-keepers of the palace, and sometimes
consoling me with the truism that morning must come, and all would be
well again. So far he was right, for after suffering nearly a martyrdom
during the tedious progress of the early morning hours, no sooner did
the light of day begin to appear than the persecuting element stayed
its violence, and the recreant rain retired in misty fogs to its
fastnesses among the heights in the rear of Myolones.
By sunrise the sky was nearly clear of clouds, birds were singing,
and the noise of laughing men told of a reaction in nature, in which
I could have gladly participated, but that I was well nigh exhausted,
and could scarcely walk to the college of the monks, several of whom
now came to beg that I would return to the shelter of their residence;
where they said I might eat as much bread and “dillock” as I liked,
without any further observation from them.