[Illustration: Frontispiece
C. Johnston, del. T & E Gilks, Lithʳˢ
VIEW OF ABHIBHAD LAKE, FROM SANKARL.
J. Madden & Co. Leadenhall Sᵗ.]
TRAVELS
IN
SOUTHERN ABYSSINIA,
THROUGH
THE COUNTRY OF ADAL
TO
THE KINGDOM OF SHOA.
BY
CHARLES JOHNSTON, M.R.C.S.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
J. MADDEN AND CO., LEADENHALL STREET.
M DCCC XLIV.
MACINTOSH, PRINTER,
GREAT NEW STREET, LONDON.
CONTENTS TO VOL. II.
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
Staying at Farree.--Alarm of Galla attack.--Return to
Kokki.--Women of Kafilah carried into slavery.--Five
Gallas killed.--Triumph of Hy Soumaulee
victors.--Return to Dinnomalee.--The Wallasmah
Mahomed.--Seizure of the letters.--Return to Farree. 1
CHAPTER II.
Detained at Farree.--No news from Ankobar.--Fear all
is not right.--Escape from my confinement.--Reach
Garcia Mulloo.--Followed by officers of
Wallasmah.--Compromise matters.--Return to
Farree.--Brutality of Wallasmah.--Planning escape to
the coast with Hy Soumaulee.--Arrival of Mr. Scott
from Ankobar.--Chief cause of my detention. 12
CHAPTER III.
Staying at Farree with Mr. Scott.--Both placed under
parole.--Description of the houses of Farree.--Of
the flour mill.--Some remarks upon the origin of
the Amhara.--Dr. Prichard upon identity of the
Amhara with the Automali of Herodotus.--Physical
characters of the people.--Interview with the
Wallasmah.--Saltpetre rock.--Province of Efat.--Take
leave of Escort.--Tyrannical conduct of the Wallasmah. 24
CHAPTER IV.
Leave Farree for Ankobar.--Description of the
road.--Aliu Amba.--Road to Ankobar.--Incidents of the
journey.--Vale of the Dinkee river.--Valley of the
Airahra.--Effect of denudation.--Ankobar.--British
Residency.--Start for Angolahlah.--Ascent of
the Tchakkah.--Road to Angolahlah.--The town of
Angolahlah.--Meet superior officers of Mission. 48
CHAPTER V.
Staying at Angolahlah.--Waterfall into the Tcherkos
river.--Difficulty in obtaining the stores.--Journey
to Ankobar. Female slaves of the Negoos.--Belief
of the Shoan Church.--Father Tellez.--Vegetables
introduced into Shoa. 67
CHAPTER VI.
Return to Aliu Amba.--Visited by Hy Soumaulee.--Complain
of being cheated by Ohmed Mahomed.--Christians
of Abyssinia and of the Greek Church generally
forbidden the use of tobacco.--Miriam’s house and
furniture.--Islam contempt for Christianity.--Evening
walk.--Begging monks. 85
CHAPTER VII.
Residence in Aliu Amba.--Settlement with the
Hy Soumaulee.--Proceed to Ankobar.--Obtain
the requisite sum.--Relapse of intermittent
fever.--Occupation.--Geographical information.--Course
of the Gibbee.--Character of table land of Abyssinia. 99
CHAPTER VIII.
Water cure.--Nearly killed by it.--Ordered to leave
Shoa.--Proceed to Angolahlah.--Courteous treatment of
the officers of the Negoos.--Entertainment.--Remarks
upon the character of Sahale Selassee.--The Mahomedan
religion. 126
CHAPTER IX.
Court dress.--Palace of Angolahlah.--Interview
with Negoos.--Memolagee.--Invited to house of
Tinta.--Supplies from palace.--Return to Ankobar. 148
CHAPTER X.
Stay with Tinta.--Proceed to Ankobar.--Remain for the
day at Musculo’s house.--Fever.--Abyssinian supper
party.--Honey wine.--Importance of salt as an article
of food. 162
CHAPTER XI.
Leave Ankobar.--Arrive in Aliu Amba.--Musical
party.--Durgo.--Arrangements with Tinta.--Remarks upon
internal Government of Shoa.--The authority of Sahale
Selassee.--His virtues. 178
CHAPTER XII.
Study of Amharic.--Remarks upon wet season in
Abyssinia.--Sad prospect of recovery.--Accident to
Walderheros.--Books in the Amharic language.--Messages
from the Negoos.--Inconvenience of living with
Miriam.--Require a house.--Expenditure.--Choosing a
residence. 192
CHAPTER XIII.
Custom of giving Memolagee.--Sugar
boiling.--Success.--Gratify the Negoos.--Receive
house.--Claims of kindred.--Remarks upon intestate
property.--The two brothers of late owner.--Removal to
new residence. 203
CHAPTER XIV.
Division of time.--My new servant, Goodaloo.--Thatching
house.--Islam assistants.--Kindness of Tinta.--Finish
roof.--Feast upon the occasion.--Remarks upon practice
of eating raw meat. 215
CHAPTER XV.
Market day in Aliu Amba.--Toll of wares.--Court of
Piepoudre.--Appearance of the market.--The salt
money.--Character of the different vendors.--The
prices of several articles.--No Jews in Abyssinia. 227
CHAPTER XVI.
Visit from Sheik Tigh.--Strange news.--Arrival of
Abdoanarch.--Situation of my house.--Wallata
Gabriel.--Baking bread.--Vapour bath.--Cure for
hernia. 247
CHAPTER XVII.
Determine to be cupped.--Mode of operating.--Medical
knowledge of the Shoans.--Surgery.--Remarks
upon their diseases and their remedies.--The
cosso tree.--Mode of using the cosso.--Other
curative processes.--Manufacture of gunpowder.--
Success.--Health improving. 262
CHAPTER XVIII.
Start for Myolones.--Account of the road.--Effect of the
earthquake.--Dangerous passage.--Ford the Gindebal
wans.--Dubdubhee.--Reach Myolones.--Remarks upon
taking possession of the land. 278
CHAPTER XIX.
Examination of the gunpowder.--Tinta in disgrace.--The
remedy.--The scribes, or dupteraoitsh.--Their
mode of writing.--Audience with the Negoos.--
Memolagee.--College of priests.--My new residence.--
Night of storm.--Uncomfortable situation.--Weather
clears up. 289
CHAPTER XX.
Abyssinian dress.--Visit to the Negoos.--Inspection of
firearms.--Congratulated on my reception.--Return
to Aliu Amba.--A troublesome companion.--Pleasant
beverage.--Market day.--Numerous visitors.--Home
manufacture of cloth. 303
CHAPTER XXI.
Spinning cotton.--Of police force of Shoa.--Mode of
administering justice.--Priest lawyers.--Politics
of Shoa.--French intrigues.--Different kinds of
cotton.--Process of cleaning it.--Instruments
used.--Return from market. 314
CHAPTER XXII.
Carpentering.--Fit up a study.--Worshippers of
demons.--Saroitsh.--English superstition.--Priestly
benediction.--Tabeeb monasteries.--Of their
character and discipline.--Turning-lathe.--Drinking
hours.--Female ornaments.--Sumptuary edict. 325
CHAPTER XXIII.
Wallata Gabriel dismissed.--Reinstated.--Comparison
of different races of men.--Of human varieties.--
Of the process of brewing.--Abyssinian ale.--
Ingredients.--The horn of plenty. 338
CHAPTER XXIV.
Visited by Ibrahim.--Map of the Hawash.--Its effect
upon table land of Abyssinia.--Future juncture
with the Abi.--Its early tributaries.--Effects of
denudation.--Zui lake.--Popular tradition.--Abyssinian
geographical work.--Galla tribes. 351
CHAPTER XXV.
No prospect of recovery.--Slaughter of the goat.--
Manufacture of skin-bags.--The process.--Farming.--
The bark employed.--Morocco leather.--Carcase
butchers.--Process of cutting up meat. 364
CHAPTER XXVI.
Invitation to visit the Negoos.--Karissa and his
firelock.--Some account of the countries to the
south of Shoa.--Distances.--A reputed cannibal
people.--Other absurd rumours.--Probable truth.--Of
the Doko: not dwarfs but monkeys. 375
CHAPTER XXVII.
Conversation with Karissa.--Of the origin of the
Galla.--Of the word Adam.--Of Eve.--Phœnician
history.--Sanchoniathon and Moses.--Of the religion of
the Galla.--Of Waak.--Connexion with Bacchus.--Reward
of enterprise.--African ethnology.--Of the armoury
of the Negoos.--Different kinds of guns.--Of the
ammunition. 391
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Message from the Negoos.--Visit Ankobar.--The Monk
Bethlehem.--Conversation.--Bad weather.--A tattooing
operation.--Interview with Negoos. 403
CHAPTER XXIX.
Conversation on medical matters with the Negoos.--Of
Guancho.--The State prison.--The construction of
its defences.--Good medicine for captives.--Its
probable effect.--Of the Gallas, their invasion of the
Gongas.--Abyssinian slaves.--Conclusion. 419
ERRATUM.
Page 106, 14 lines from bottom, _transpose_ the words _Apis_ and
_Serapis_, with _Abi_ and _Assabi_ of the next line.
TRAVELS IN SOUTHERN ABYSSINIA,
ETC.
CHAPTER I.
Staying at Farree.--Alarm of Galla attack.--Return to
Kokki.--Women of Kafilah carried into slavery.--Five
Gallas killed.--Triumph of Hy Soumaulee victors.--Return
to Dinnomalee.--The Wallasmah Mahomed.--Seizure of the
letters.--Return to Farree.
_May 23._--I had scarcely opened my eyes, after the first night’s rest
in Abyssinia, when a heavy knocking at the door, and repeated calls
for me, made me get up in a great hurry to know the reason of such
a disturbance. I found the escort all in an uproar, and they pushed
past me into the house for their weapons, where they had been safely
deposited under my care, and which, as soon as they were seized, away
my friends ran, one after another, in the direction of Dinnomalee.
Ohmed Medina, who had suddenly sprung up from somewhere, sat upon his
mule in the market-place, and was shouting for me to come, whilst
one of his slaves was hastily saddling my mule also. I could not make
out what was the matter, but as the word “Galla” was in the mouth of
every one, I suspected that an attack had been made upon the stores
during the night by those marauders, and began to be afraid that I had
calculated too surely upon their being safe when at Dinnomalee.
Getting myself ready as quickly as possible, I was soon galloping along
the road, following Ohmed Medina. We stayed not a moment at Dinnomalee,
but a look satisfied my greatest anxiety; for the stores were all safe,
and I cared for nothing else, so with a mind much easier, I called
out to Ohmed Medina, for the first time, to ask what, and where the
disturbance was. He only turned his face towards me, as he called
out “Dophan,” and “Galla,” urging his mule on as he spoke, as if he
wished he had wings to fly at once to the little town of half-civilized
Wahamas, we had passed yesterday on this side of Kokki. We overtook,
and gradually left behind us, all the Hy Soumaulee, who, in a
far-apart, straggling line, were hastening to the rescue. As we came up
to each of these, a vain attempt was made to keep alongside of us, but
our pace was too good, and we entered alone the small densely-wooded
valley, then along the deep ravine, and at length pulled up on the
camping ground we had left yesterday morning, when the leading camels
of the Hy Soumaulee Kafilah came in sight, and where they had halted
for the night; the greater part of the Tajourah camels alone coming on
after us to Dinnomalee the same day.
On our arrival, preparations were being hastily made by the Kafilah
to proceed on the march to Dinnomalee; all seemed conscious they had
stayed in this place a night too long, and anxious to get away before
any other mishap should happen. Some busy talkers surrounded Ohmed
Mahomed and Ebin Izaak, who had come in a few minutes before us, and
were listening to details of the deeds of blood, the evidences of which
were five still bleeding bodies, that lay naked in different places
upon the little green sloping bank that rose from the stream, and upon
which the encampment stood.
Carmel Ibrahim and another of my escort were busy paring the skin of
a goat, just killed, into the little twisted “symbil,” or ornaments,
with which it is usual to adorn the head, wrists, ankles, and also the
weapons of warriors who have slain a foe. Whilst thus employed, they
sung in a sharp falsetto voice some song of triumph, their voices being
elevated considerably, as every fresh comer from Dinnomalee arrived.
Above us, to the left, the inhabitants of the little town were making
sad lamentations, and loud sobbing cries over the dead body of one of
their people who had been killed in the engagement.
From what we were now told, it appeared that a little before sunrise,
several women of the Kafilah had gone down to a place at some distance
from the camp, where the little stream spread out into a pool, to fill
their affaleetahs and gourd-shells with water for the march. Here they
were seized by a large body of Hittoo Gallas, who, during the night,
had approached the Kafilah, and were lying concealed in this situation,
awaiting for the camels to be loaded, so that after an attack they
might drive them with their loads quickly away. On being discovered,
the greater part seized the women and carried them away at once, whilst
another body rushed over the little stream hoping still to be able to
surprise the Kafilah before the men had assembled for its protection.
One Dophanter man, who had followed the women, attempted to escape by
running towards the camp, but a pursuing Galla launched his spear, and
transfixed him through the back, so that a wound was visible under the
breast, corresponding to the much larger one in the back. His cries,
however, called the Hy Soumaulee to arms, of whom more than four times
the number of the Galla collected immediately, and before the latter
were aware of the strength of the party they were about to attack, they
were too near to escape some retributive punishment. Immediately the
Hy Soumaulee saw them commencing to retire, they were on their feet,
following them fast down the little slope to the brook, and succeeded
in killing five of the daring robbers, before they could ascend the
opposite bank. The rest made good their retreat to the main body, who
had now got some distance with the women, and together formed a force
far too great for the Hy Soumaulee people to hope to attack it with
advantage. They were obliged, therefore to halt, form a semicircular
squatting line, and be passive spectators of their women, seven of whom
belonged to the Kafilah, and three to the town of Dophan, being carried
away into captivity.
Three Gallas were killed by spears, the others had been stabbed in the
throat and chest, and probably died fighting fairly enough. Carmel
Ibrahim was one happy man-slayer, and also the brother of Moosa,
and they kept up their song of triumph all the time we stayed here,
except when they took me to see the bodies of those they had killed.
I observed that the Dankalli do not practise the brutal custom of
disfiguring the slain, so common among the Amhara at the present time,
and which was also a characteristic of Jewish warfare. The arms and
shields, not only of the Gallas who had been killed, but also numerous
others that the fugitives had thrown away, fell to the lot of those who
picked them up in the latter case, and to the victors in the former.
Two of the other successful Hy Soumaulee were so busy fixing in their
own belts the newly-obtained knives, which were much better than their
own, that they did not attempt to raise the song, like Carmel and his
friend, who, perhaps, only did it to attract my attention. Ohmed Medina
informed me that I must give them a present, and upon my asking why,
he said it was the custom for masters so to reward brave servants.
He assured me that the chief of the town of Dophan had already given
them a goat, and that the Wallasmah would also do the same. Seeing
that it was the general custom, and as they had only been doing their
duty, not as aggressors, but as men defending their wives and property,
I promised them a bullock. On my doing this they would insist upon
decorating my head with a symbil, or wreath of twisted goatskin, like
themselves, but I managed to induce them at last to place it on my
hat instead. Before we left the ground, I asked Ohmed Medina, if the
dead Gallas would be buried. He looked at me, rather astonished at the
question, but thinking, I suppose, that I knew no better, he said, very
shortly, “Koran yahklur” (the ravens will eat them).
Our curiosity being satisfied, we now followed the camels, already
some distance on their way to Dinnomalee, conversing as we rode along
upon the events of the morning. The Hy Soumaulee men were too excited
to think of the captive girls taken from amongst them never to return,
but several of the women of the Kafilah I noticed with tear-shot eye
mourning the loss of some friend or relation. No usual occupation, such
as plaiting the palm leaf into a broad ribbon, to be sewed afterwards
into mats, filled their hands, no familiar salutations as I passed
by enlivened the way with smiles, but each with a long rope fastened
around the under jaw of a camel led strings of five or six of these
animals, that followed in their peculiarly quiet manner, the path their
sorrowing conductress pursued.
Myself and others of the party who were mounted soon went a-head, and
had it not been for repeated stoppages on the road to relate to those
still coming, all we had learned of the deed of blood, we should have
returned to Dinnomalee by ten o’clock; as it was, the sun had passed
the meridian when we arrived, and we found there an equally busy scene,
but of a very different character, to the one we had been partial
witnesses of at Dophan.
During our absence the Wallasmah Mahomed, attended by his brother,
two sons, his scribe, and a whole host of armed followers, had come
into Farree, and just at the moment we passed the first trees on our
side that inclosed the open space where stood the stores, salt, and
merchandise of our Kafilah, that officer and his party emerged from
the jungly wood opposite; the Wallasmah riding upon a mule, the rest
walking, and among these the bearers of the silver mounted shield, and
the silver sword of office were most conspicuous.
The Wallasmah Mahomed, the hereditary Prince or Governor of Efat,
imbodied my idea of a dull, sensual, yet cunning man. There was nothing
in his countenance to recommend him; bloated, with a heavy stupid
expression, a little relieved certainly by small restless eyes that
glanced at me whenever he thought I was not looking at him. Perhaps
his fleshy turned up nose might be termed by some physiognomists an
aspiring feature, and his chubby mouth, from having lost all his teeth,
or nearly so, was continually mumbling something or other, or else
munching a little branch of wormwood. I will not charge him with being
actually sober, nor would he, I think, have sworn upon the Koran that
he was so himself; but a bad headache was pleaded for the narrow rag
of blue cotton that bound a large fresh green leaf upon his forehead.
This application, I was told, was to produce a sense of coolness in the
part affected, and to aid its effects it was frequently wetted by an
attendant with water from a gourd shell, carried for this purpose.
On my going up to speak to the old gentleman, who had already seated
himself upon a mat in the round shade of one of the trees, he very
politely drew up his legs more under him, and invited me with a wave
of his hand to be seated by his side. An inspection of my carabine
immediately followed this; putting it up to his shoulder he glanced
his eye along the barrels, and then turned round, with a nod and a sly
wink, as if he wished me to believe that he knew all about it. He now
asked, through Ohmed Medina, if I had any letters, and never supposing
that they would be taken from me, I told him there were two packets
which I must deliver to the British Embassy at Ankobar that day if
possible. Saying this, I got up, and pointing to the sun intimated that
it would be too late unless I started; but immediately catching hold of
the skirt of my blouse he pulled me down again, saying, “I must stay
with him, for the King had ordered that I was to remain at Farree, and
not go any farther into the country.” This was fully explained by Ohmed
Medina, who also told me that Ebin Izaak had been obliged to give up
the letters and despatches whilst I had been talking to the old man.
I had been misled, though most unintentionally on the part of Mr.
Cruttenden, by his information of the great honour and reverence with
which the King of Shoa, Sahale Selassee, treated the members of our
political mission, and I had supposed it was merely necessary for me
to be the bearer of despatches from the coast, to be received with all
cordiality and freedom from suspicion as to the motives of my visit
on my arrival in Shoa. How disappointed I was may be imagined when,
instead of being permitted to proceed at once to the residency in
Ankobar, I found myself a prisoner; and on my telling the Wallasmah
that my queen would be very angry when she came to hear of the letters
being taken from me, he very coolly threatened to have me chained,
confirming the interpretation of Ohmed Medina, by placing his two
wrists together as if bound. As I saw he was in earnest, and that if
I said any more it might, perhaps, place our ambassador in a worse
position than what he seemed to be in, I restrained my feelings, and
retired to think over my situation and what I conceived to be that of
the mission in Shoa. Having sent a short note by a messenger the day
before to Captain Harris, announcing my arrival, I postponed taking
any decided steps until I received his answer, for I now contemplated
making my escape back again, to take the news to Aden of the condition
of our embassy, the members of which were stated to be prisoners like
myself.
I had not sat alone long, when some of the Wallasmah’s people came to
tell me I must go to Farree with them. I asked for my mule, but found
it had been taken away to have the benefit, as they significantly
told me, of the King’s own pasturage. There was nothing to be done
but to accompany them; so telling some of the Hy Soumaulee to come
to Farree the next morning to see me, and if I were not there to go
on to Ankobar, I proceeded with my guides, or guards, to the same
house I slept in the last night; and the ready smiling welcome,
the little bustle to receive me cordially, I met with from the
good-natured inmates, was some set-off to the brutal indifference of
the state-gaoler; for such office also I found was filled by the head
of the customs of Shoa, the Abigass, or frontier governor of Efat, the
obsequious spiteful pluralist the Wallasmah Mahomed.
I passed the night, having received no answer to my note from Ankobar,
wishing for the day, still hoping that I might be mistaken in my fears,
and that some of the members of the embassy would come to congratulate
me on my safe arrival, and free me from the anxiety, restraint, and
espionage I was now annoyed with; for two sentinels were constantly on
duty in the little enclosure, and always present in the house, when I
received visits even from my Hy Soumaulee friends.
The next day came, but no news from Ankobar. I amused myself as well
as I could, writing up my notes and settling small accounts with my
escort and those of the Kafilah people, from whose importunities on
the road I had relieved myself by promises of presents in Shoa, and
who now came for paper, needles, buttons, scissors, and razors. Almost
all that I possessed was divided among them as some little return for
their continued kindness and fidelity to me on the road; for I had
little to complain of except the continual falsehoods and petty deceits
practised invariably by the Tajourah people. Even Ohmed Medina was
not altogether exempt from this failing; but it was from a motive of
well-meant kindness, so that I should not be able to detect the number
of instances that little attempts were made to impose upon me, and
which he thought might lead to expostulation and angry discussions.