CHAPTER I

ITALIAN

YESTERDAYS

BY

MRS. HUGH FRASER

Author of “A Diplomatist’s Wife in Japan,”

“A Diplomatist’s Wife in Many Lands,”

“Reminiscences of a Diplomatist’s

Wife,” etc.

VOL. II

NEW YORK

DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY

1913

COPYRIGHT, 1913, BY

DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY

Published November, 1913

CONTENTS OF VOL. II

CHAPTER I

PAGE

SAINTS OF THE CHURCH 1

A Friend in Rome—A Story of Two Ways of Loving—Aglaë

and Boniface—Become Christians—A New Life—Boniface

Endures Terrible Tortures—Martyrdom—Death of

Aglaë—Church of St. Boniface—Alexis, the Pilgrim—His

Travels—Return to Rome—A Ragged Beggar—His Death and

Burial in St. Boniface’s Church—St. Alexis’

Monastery—Trials of the Church After Constantine—Rome’s

Lowest Ebb—Growth of the Spiritual City—Benedict the

Blessed, and Scholastica.

CHAPTER II

FOUNDER OF MONASTICISM 15

Norcia in the Sabines—A Matrona—The Twins, Benedict and

Scholastica—Benedict Goes to Rome—Conversion of

Placidus—Benedict’s Retirement to La Mentorella—Life in

a Cave—Temptations—Visit of St. Francis—Benedict’s

Ministering—Real Founder of Monastic Life—Growth of His

Order—Placidus and Maurus—St. Benedict’s Personality and

Conversions—His Ideal of the Religious Life—His Greatest

Miracles—His Sister, Scholastica—The Last Day

Together—His Ascension.

CHAPTER III

ST. GREGORY THE GREAT 37

Birth and Lineage of St. Gregory—Path from the World to

the Cloister—Prayer, Study, and Charity—His Cat—A

Prophecy—A Cardinal Deacon—Mission to

Constantinople—Eutyches’ Heresy—Rome in

Pestilence—Gregory Elected Pope—His Unbelievable

Accomplishments—His Life as Pope—Championship of

the Oppressed—Bond with English-speaking People—The Great

Procession During the Pestilence—Gregory’s Successors.

CHAPTER IV

MEMORIES OF THE PANTHEON 52

The Pantheon—Hadrian’s Best Monument—Long Idle—Consecrated

as St. Mary of the Martyrs—The Cathedral, the Symbol

of the Soul—Its Purification—Continuity of the Church—A

Priest’s Visit—The Alabaster Square—Procession of the

Martyrs’ Relics—Giovanni Borgi, the Workman—Italian

Guilds—Giovanni’s Selflessness—His Rescue of the Forsaken

Children—Care of Them—Crusade in Behalf of All the Waifs

of Rome—His Work of Love—Giovanni’s Successor,

Later Pius IX.

CHAPTER V

EARLY LIFE OF FATHER MASTAI 70

Birth in 1792—A Happy Family—His Youth—Epilepsy—The

Church at the Time of Napoleon—Abduction of Pius to

Avignon—Napoleon’s Downfall—Return of the Pope to

Rome—His Reception—Prophecies Regarding Pius IX—His

Journey to Chile—Ocean Trip—Across the Andes—Failure

of Mission—Rounding Cape Horn—English Settlement on the

Cape—“Love-of-the-Soil”—The Falkland Islands.

CHAPTER VI

POPE PIUS IX 91

Director of Ospizio di San Michele—A Splendid

Record—Archbishop of Spoleto—A Turbulent

Populace—Order Restored—Revolution in Europe—Spoleto

Saved—The Earthquake in Umbria—New Post at Imola—Secret

Societies—A Cardinal—Attack upon the Three Prelates—The

Cardinal’s Bravery—How the Saints Forgive—Pope Pius

IX—His Charity and Justice—Defenders of the Poor—Anecdotes

of the Cardinal’s Generosity.

CHAPTER VII

CAPTIVITY OF POPE PIUS VII 108

Lebzeltern, the Ambassador of the Austrian Emperor—Origin

of His Mission—Napoleon’s Anger Against Pius VII—Arrest

of the Pope—Protests from the Church—Napoleon

Excommunicated—Vain Efforts to Evade the Bull—Instructions

for the Mission—“Do All, or Else, _Do Nothing_”—Pius

VII in His Sixty-eighth Year—The Interview—The Pope’s

Position—His Generosity—Message to Napoleon—Continued

Captivity—Return to Rome—Napoleon’s Expiation.

CHAPTER VIII

IN SABINA 131

Castel Gandolfo—Its Gardens—The Sabine Hills—The

Reverendo—An Expedition into the Hills-The Campagna in the

Early Morning—“Our Lady of Good Counsel”—Ancient

Præneste—Italy’s Landscape—Struggles of the

Colonna—Destruction of Palestrina—Boniface’s Revenge

and Expiation—Olevano, the Haunt of Artists—“Picturesque

Utility”—The Wrong Train—Romance of a Pebble—The Work

of the Saints.

CHAPTER IX

PEOPLE OF THE HILLS 152

The Apennines—View from a Peak—Real

Hospitality—Polenta—Woods of Sabina—A Hill Family—The

Cook—A Queer Adventure—People of the South—A Night

Festival in the Abruzzi—The Journey—The Old Organ—Marion

Crawford’s Boys—Juvenile Theatricals.

CHAPTER X

A STORY OF VENICE 172

A Follower of the Condottieri—The Raw Recruit—Division of

the Dukedom of Milan—Carmagnola’s Turn—Growth in

Wealth and Power—Disaffection—Venice Acquires His

Services—War with Milan—A Leisurely Campaign—Carmagnola

at the Height of His Glory—Fortune Turns Against the

Venetians—Stirrings of Suspicion—Reception in Venice—The

Senate Chamber—Growing Dusk—The Attack—End of His Part in

the World—Another Story of the North—St. Raniero, the Patron

of Pisa—The Power of Temperance.

CHAPTER XI

QUEEN JOAN OF NAPLES 191

A Conspicuous Feminine Sinner—Marriage of State—Her

Beauty—Her Hungarian Husband—Petrarch and the Monk—Joan’s

Ascent to the Throne—The Naples Succession—Her

Favourites—The Churches of Naples—Joan’s Lovers—Factions

of Naples—Charles of Durazzo—A Bold Proposal—Charles’

Ambitious Plots—War of the Factions—Disappearance of

Maria—Becomes the Wife of Charles—Joan’s Horror.

CHAPTER XII

A MEDIÆVAL NIGHTMARE 208

Pact Between Charles and Andrew of Hungary—Joan’s Homage

to the Papal Legate—Andrew Ignored—Arrival of Andrew’s

Mother—Andrew Upheld by the Pope—His Reprisals—“The

Man Must Die”—The Queen’s Conspiracy—Last

Meeting of Charles and Andrew—The Hunting Expedition—The

Banquet in the Monastery—The Murder—Tempest Breaks

over Joan’s Head—An Evil Blow at Charles—Trial of Andrew’s

Murderers—A Nightmare of Cruelty and Fear.

CHAPTER XIII

THE VAMPIRE-MONARCH FROM HUNGARY 233

Charles’ Further Acts as Dictator—Rise of the Favoured

Louis of Taranto—Civil War—A Scheme of the Empress of

Constantinople—Interference of the King of Hungary—The

Empress Again to the Rescue—Hungary’s Advance—Death of

the Empress—Flight of the Neapolitan Nobles—Joan and

Her Husband in Provence—Charles’ Well-merited Fate—The

King of Hungary’s Vengeance—Government by Execution.

CHAPTER XIV

END OF JOAN’S CAREER 246

Joan Detained at Aix—Greeted as a Queen—Joan Pronounced

Innocent—Plans to Regain Naples—Sale of a City—Return to

Naples—Indecisive War—Proposal for Personal

Conflict—Flight of the Royal Family—Maria’s Narrow

Escape—Hungarians Repulsed—Pope Clement as

Intermediary—Departure of the King of Hungary—Festivity

in Naples—Death of Louis and Joan’s Further Marital

Adventures—Joan in Trouble—Her Untimely End.

CHAPTER XV

NAPLES UNDER MURAT 263

Beauty of Naples—Figures of Its History—St.

Januarius—Murat, King of Naples—Achievements as King—The

Carbonari—England’s Promises—Napoleonic Diplomacy—Rise

of the Bourbons—Alliance with Austria—Murat’s

Indecision—Distrust of the Allies—Murat’s

Statesmanship—Talleyrand’s Diplomacy—Naples, the

Gay—Conspiracy in the Palace—The Escape from

Elba—Ideal Government—War Against Murat—Advance of

the Austrians—Murat Driven to Naples—Interview with His

Wife—Last Instructions to His Ministers—Escape.

CHAPTER XVI

MURAT’S LAST DAYS 299

Naples in Anarchy—Entrance of Austrians—Murat’s Repulse

by Napoleon and by Louis—His Demon of

Ill-luck—Ship-wrecked—Aid in Corsica—Emperor of Austria’s

Proposal—Attempt Against Naples—Murat Betrayed into

Ferdinand’s Hands—Murat’s “Trial”—Letter to His

Wife—Before His “Judges”—A Brave Death—Ferdinand, the

“Butcher King.”

CHAPTER XVII

ITALIAN SEAS 315

Our Moods and the Seas—Memories in Landscapes—The Healing

of the Sea—A Vision in the Bay of Naples—Marion Crawford’s

Yacht Expected—The Family Together at Leghorn—Lady

Paget—A Bathing Scene—Hugh Fraser—“Spannocchi” for

Dinner—The Avenging Boatman—Livorno, An Anomaly—Sunset

on the Mare Ligure—Bay of Spezia, a Splurge of Colour and

Light—A Hail Storm in Venice—The Joy of a Gondola—Moods

of Venice—A Giorgione Beauty—The Nurseries of Venice—Her

Shops—Saints and Heresies of the Thirteenth Century.

CHAPTER XVIII

SOUTHERN SHORES 339

Melancholy Ravenna—Early Byzantine Architecture—Forests

of Stone-pine—Smiles and Tears—The Need of a Little

Misfortune—Monte Gargano—Millions of Spanish

Merinos—Primæval Forest—A Forest Miracle—Church of the

Apparition of St. Michael—Other Apparitions of the

Archangel—The Revelation to St. Aubert—The Great Round

Church—Order of the Knights of St. Michael—A “Maiden”

Fortress of France.

CHAPTER I

SAINTS OF THE CHURCH

A Friend in Rome—A Story of Two Ways of Loving—Aglaë and

Boniface—Become Christians—A New Life—Boniface Endures Terrible

Tortures—Martyrdom—Death of Aglaë—Church of St. Boniface—Alexis,

the Pilgrim—His Travels—Return to Rome—A Ragged Beggar—His Death

and Burial in St. Boniface’s Church—St. Alexis’ Monastery—Trials

of the Church After Constantine—Rome’s Lowest Ebb—Growth of the

Spiritual City—Benedict the Blessed, and Scholastica.

It was my good fortune, many years ago, to make friends with a

woman whose name was as beautiful as her mind—Mary Grace. We met in

another hemisphere, under the Southern Cross, and for many days lived

together in Chile’s one little paradise, Viña del Mar. There, in shady

patios trellised with jessamine and bougainvillea, we talked of the

impossible—of meeting in Rome and going together to the holy places and

making better acquaintance with the Saints. Two or three years later

the impossible happened. My Mary, with her daughter Lilium, floated

into my mother’s drawing-room in the Odescalchi one April afternoon,

when the swallows were whirling above the courtyard and the house

seemed all roses and sunshine. In the weeks that followed all our dream

programme was realised; together we went to the Pope’s Mass, together

knelt at his feet while Leo XIII laid his hand on Lilium’s golden

head and blessed us and promised to pray for us and all our dear ones;

and together we wandered from place to place in the Eternal City, I,

who had known it all my life, learning many things from her who came

there for the first time, as so often happens. Of all those pleasant

inspiring hours the one we both remembered most appreciatively, I

think, was that of our visit to a lonely spot on the Aventine—the hill

that somehow has always kept its character and is even to-day very

little hurt by the destructions that have defaced most of the other

quarters of the town.

My friend was Irish, “pur sang,” and her appreciations were extremely

individual ones; things that other people felt obliged to rave about

left her quite cold; but, when she had caught and joined the links

of some beautiful story that the world had overlooked or forgotten,

she became a veritable flame of enthusiasm, and every tiny detail and

souvenir she could connect with it had to be sought out and stored in

the big warm shrine of her heart. I think, though I am not certain,

that she knew the story of the house on the Aventine before she came to

Rome. Anyway, it was she who took me there, and we went over story and

house together, and were exceedingly loath to come away when the Ave

Maria rang over the city and all respectable people turned their faces

homewards.

Here is the story, a story of two ways of loving. It is in two parts,

and I only learnt the first long after I was familiar with the second.

The beginning takes us back to the last years of the Third Century,

to the oft-mentioned reign of Diocletian. At that time, although the

Aventine had never been one of the most distinguished quarters of Rome,

it contained a few dwellings of nobles, who, doubtless, overlooked the

mass of poorer houses that swarmed about its base, for the sake of the

view, both over the city and towards the sea, from which comes always

the pleasant west wind that we Romans love. I have spoken of the palace

of the good Marcella, where in her old age she was so roughly treated

by Alaric’s Goths; before Marcella’s time there lived another noble

lady on the Aventine, with very different ideas as to the conduct of

life. Her name was Aglaë, not a Roman name, and I fancy she must have

come of Greek parentage, although she is spoken of as a noble Roman

matron. Of her husband, who seems to have died before the story begins,

we are told nothing; her whole existence was wrapped up in a quite

unsanctified passion for a handsome pagan called Boniface, a man of

generous heart, as the sequel shows, but a sensualist, like most of

his class at that time. He adored Aglaë, and the two must have passed

some enchanting hours wandering on the terraces of the Aventine villa

or sitting hand in hand to watch the sun sinking red into the distant

sea. No thought of the future seems to have come to them there, nor any

gleam of a scruple as to their way of life. Youth and beauty and love

were theirs; this world was sweet, and they had never heard of another.

Then something happened. We are not told what it was—perhaps some

miracle witnessed by Boniface at the martyrdom of some obscure

Christian, one of those miracles which so often converted a crowd of

brutal, mocking bystanders into Christians on the spot. Whatever it

was, it rent his soul, summoned his intelligence, and claimed him for

ever. If Aglaë was not with him at the moment, he must have rushed

to her for one last visit to tell her of it, for her conversion was

simultaneous, and sudden as his own. From that moment the lovers

renounced each other for the love of Christ, and the remainder of their

lives was devoted to atoning for their guilt in the past. Aglaë, in her

lonely palace, gave herself up to prayer and penance; Boniface at once

joined himself to the band of Christians who made it their business to

gather up and bury the bodies of the martyrs. In no other way could he

assuage the tumult of pain and repentance that filled his heart at the

remembrance of his sins. Diocletian’s persecution was not confined to

Rome, but was raging in many other parts of the Empire, notably in Asia

Minor, and thither Boniface travelled with some devoted companions, in

order to help and cheer the poor Christians in their sufferings.

On arriving at Tarsus, St. Paul’s city, he got separated from his

fellow-travellers, and, wandering around, found that a great number of

the Faithful were being cruelly tormented that day, in divers ways,

for the name of Christ, and his heart was both torn with compassion

for their pains and admiration for their heroism. Approaching them,

he kissed their chains and encouraged them to endure these passing

tortures for the sake of Him who would so quickly and splendidly reward

them by an eternity of joy. Of course he was at once arrested, and the

tormentors seem to have tasked their ingenuity in inventing agonies for

him to bear. His sins of the flesh were expiated by having his whole

body ploughed with hooks of iron, and by spikes of wood run in under

his nails and on his limbs; he had spoken sinful words; they poured

molten lead into his mouth; he had sinned in the lust of the eyes and

the pride of life; the executioners plunged him head downwards in a

cauldron of boiling pitch. But from this the Lord delivered him. When

they drew him forth, his eyes were clear, his brow unscarred, and he

looked once more—his last look—on the fair world where he had been so

sinfully happy, and through it all he praised God aloud, saying, “Lord

Jesus Christ, Son of God, I thank Thee!” Then came the order—so usual

when all the torments had failed and the dear spirit still clung to the

lacerated body—“Behead him!”

As the axe fell, there was a terrific earthquake, and many of the

bystanders were converted then and there, but no one was allowed

to touch his body. Meanwhile his friends, who had been seeking for

him everywhere, learnt of his martyrdom, and came to gather up his

remains. But a strict watch had been set, and it was only after paying

five hundred pieces of silver that they could obtain possession of

the dear corpse. With love and tears, they anointed it with precious

balms and wrapped it in costly coverings and transported it to Rome.

During these months Aglaë had been living a life of such whole-hearted

repentance that our dear Lord had taken her into great grace; and

now, by an exquisite, Divine bit of indulgence—one of those flashes of

hot sympathy that come straight from the Sacred Human Heart of Him in

Heaven to some poor, broken human heart on earth—He sent an Angel to

tell her that her Boniface’s body was returning to Rome and that she

could go and meet it. So Aglaë, in her sombre penitential dress, her

beautiful face covered with a veil, went forth, and, at a given place,

saw the little procession approaching from the sea. There was no danger

for her in looking at the beloved features now. Very quiet and strong

she seems to have been as she met the wayfarers, bade them pause with

their holy burden, and then led them back to her own house. There,

where he and she had loved and sinned, she received him, who was to

leave her no more. Those who had brought him told her of his glorious

end, and she thanked the Lord for it again—for the Angel had not let

her wait so long for the story. And when she had shown her gratitude

by most loving hospitality and precious gifts to those who had brought

his body, they went away and left her alone with her beloved. Ask any

loving woman what she did then! Which of us would not place our dear

tortured dead in our hall of honour, and burn sweet spices round them,

and light tall tapers, and fill the place with every fragrance and

loveliness that the garden has to give?

All this, we may be sure, Aglaë did for Boniface; but she did that

from which most women are debarred. She turned her palace into a Church

for his tomb, and prayed near it till she died, and then the poor and

suffering, who had been her one care from the day of her conversion,

came there and prayed for her soul. But we know that that went straight

to Heaven.

So there stood the Church of St. Boniface, and, some two hundred years

later, a most noble Roman family had established their own palace close

to it, and the Church, as we know it, now includes a part of the house

of Alexis. For this is where a great saint grew to manhood, the loved

son of rich and affectionate parents. Alexis had every gift of mind,

with beauty of countenance and strength of body; and, when the time was

ripe, his father and mother betrothed him to a bride of their choosing,

good and sweet, and very fair to see. In this they had, for the first

time, met with stubborn opposition from the boy, who had never opposed

them before. He told them that he had vowed himself to a single life

for God’s service, and that no earthly bride, however beautiful, should

make him swerve from that allegiance. But they, like many other good

parents, persisted in their project, convinced that they knew what was

good for their son; and the preparations for his marriage went merrily

forward, each day but adding to the young man’s grief and perplexity.

Rome was Rome still; he could protest, but he had to obey his father’s

direct commands, and obey he did; but his vow had been made to a still

higher authority, and he meant to keep it, and prayed for grace and

guidance to do so, nor were grace and guidance refused him, who, as the

Breviary puts it, “was of Rome’s noblest, but nobler yet through his

great love for Christ.”

On the night of his wedding, when the feasting and singing and

congratulating were over, and the matrons conducted the bride, probably

a child of thirteen or fourteen, to the lighted, perfumed bridal

chamber, Alexis would not so much as touch her hand, but, like one

Galahad of another time and clime, bade her farewell and departed,

having received from God a special command to go on a pilgrimage to

the “illustrious Churches of the Universe.” He left all behind, riches

and servants, and even his name, and for seventeen long years, with

no companion but the Lady Poverty, wandered, a nameless poor pilgrim,

through all the Holy Places, praising the Redeemer for His great

mercies and praying for the hastening of the Kingdom of Heaven.

At the end of those seventeen years, he was one day praying fervently

before an image of the Blessed Virgin in the great Church at Edessa,

when a voice came from the image, proclaiming his name and rank. The

people were greatly excited and wished to show him honour, both for his

own sake and because Our Lady Herself seemed to wish it. But Alexis

knew better. That strange, sweet voice had not rung in his ears to

lure him back to things of earthly pride, and for him the disclosure

of his identity was the command to depart from that land. He fled, and

boarded the first ship he could find to carry him away from Syria. He

never asked the vessel’s destination; it was enough for him that he was

obeying a command, but he was being led back to where the second phase

of his spiritual career awaited him—in his old home in Rome.

As the ship sped north and west, and one by one the lovely Greek

islands seemed to come floating towards him, like opals on the shifting

sapphire of the sea, he still kept silence, still prayed and praised.

What cared he whither her course was set? The white sails might have

been angel’s wings—so sure was Alexis that God was leading him. Then,

when the Apennines swam up blue from the bluer water, and scents of

violet and orange blossom were wafted out to greet the wanderer, he

knew that this was Italy—and home. Still he spoke not—questioned not;

past the isles of the Sirens, past Circe’s Promontory, still on, past

all that shore of coral and pearl, of palm and ilex and olive, with

Vesuvius’ dark smoke hanging like a menace in the background, the

little Syrian galley held her way, and at last the helmsman turned her

prow to the land, the sails were all furled but one; the enormous oars

worked her up against a rushing yellow current till the long quay was

reached, and with a rattling of chains the weary galley slaves shipped

their oars and bent down to look, each through his little opening, at

“the port of Rome.”

With the merchants and the free seamen, Alexis stepped on shore, and

gazed at the city of his birth. He had been brought back—for what?

Blindly, joyfully, obediently, he had gone forth, to fare alone with

God, and alone with God he was still to be. An hour or so later a

haggard mendicant stood at the gate of a palace on the Aventine, asking

for charity. That was never refused in that house, and the servants

brought him in, showed him a dark corner under a stairway close to the

entrance, where they told him he might sleep, and gave him some scraps

of food. Humbly and gratefully he accepted it all; he heard them speak

of the master and the mistress and the “widow” of the eldest son who

was long since dead; and that day or the next he must have seen his

father and mother, and the maid who had never been a wife, passing

through the courtyards or lingering in the garden. God’s ways are not

our ways. When He covets the love of certain souls for Himself, He

will not share it with any one, and that Divine jealousy leads the

chosen soul through hard paths. The hearts that love God intensely are

the very ones that are the most loving of their fellows, especially

of all who hold close to them in the sacred ties of family affection.

But these ties have to be snapped on earth when the Divine Lover so

wills—and Saints like Alexis, and poor sinners like the rest of us,

have to leave the broken ends in His Hands, knowing that the pain we

are made to cause our dear ones is as necessary for them as that which

we suffer is for us, and that every pang of theirs is a golden strand

in the garment of their immortality. Alexis’ parents had sinned against

him and Heaven in trying to force him to break his vow of virginity;

their son had long forgiven them, but Heaven in its mercy was allowing

them to expiate their sin here instead of hereafter, and, through their

obstinacy, the young girl who might, wedded to another spouse, have

become a joyful mother of children, had to spend her life in their sad

house, waiting upon them, and with the prospect of a very lonely age

before her when they should have passed away.

We may be sure that many and many a time Alexis longed to emerge from

his despised obscurity and comfort them all three, but it was not for

that God had brought him back. The command of silence was never lifted,

and so the son—the heir—lived on, a ragged beggar, laughed at and also

abused by his father’s servants, praying in St. Boniface’s Church by

day, sleeping in the cranny under the stairs at night, allaying his

hunger by the scraps the servants threw him, and always blessing them

and praising God, who thus satisfied His own servant’s hunger for

poverty and suffering and humiliation. This second trial, this exile of

the heart, lasted also seventeen years. At that time the very existence

of Rome was threatened by Alaric the Goth; once and twice, he had

turned from its gates laden with the ransom exacted for not entering

them; he was threatening to approach again, and this time he had sworn

to enter and destroy. The population was crowding the Churches to pray

for deliverance, when a mysterious voice rang out in each separate

Church, “Seek ye the man of God, that he may pray for Rome!” Terror

fell upon the suppliant masses, and none dared speak or move. Then the

same voice cried, “Seek in the house of Euphemian.”

There was a rush to the Aventine, for all knew the great noble’s

dwelling. The Pope, Innocent I, had heard the command and himself

went thither, followed by all his ecclesiastics and the Senators as

well. When they reached Euphemian’s house it was the Pope who led them

to the dark corner under the stairs—dark no longer, but flooded with

celestial light, where the nameless beggar lay dying alone. His hands

were already cold, but in one he held a crucifix, in the other a slip

of parchment which no one could make him relinquish, though many tried

to take it away from him. Then Innocent commanded him, in the Name of

God, to give it up, and immediately Alexis let him take it with his own

hand. And the Pope, standing up beside the dying man, opened the slip,

and read aloud therefrom the name and family of the beggar; and a great

cry went through the house that it was Alexis, the son who had been

mourned for dead these many years. And father and mother and wife threw

themselves down beside him, embracing him and weeping bitterly, for in

that moment his soul had gone to God.

Then Innocent buried him in the Church of St. Boniface, and it was

called both by his name and that of Alexis for many years. Both their

bodies rest there, and a chapel was thrown out at one side to take

in the stairway, which, now covered with glass, remains to this day.

Both Boniface and Alexis had travelled and prayed and suffered in the

East, and their Church came to be a heritage of both East and West;

for, five hundred years after the July day on which Alexis died, a

great monastery called after him and built close to the Church on the

hill of the “house of Euphemian,” sheltered monks of the Basilian and

Benedictine orders at the same time, an innumerable spiritual family

“to replace the fair family he had renounced to this world.”

The Aventine has been little touched by time and is still one of the

quietest and loveliest spots in Rome. At certain seasons it suffers

from malaria—blown up from the marshes near Ostia—and for that reason

both mediæval and modern builders have generally avoided it. But it is

full of gardens. That of St. Alexis’ Convent, now an Asylum for the

Blind, is famous for its orange and lemon trees; and one can trace

the dispositions of the terraces and courts of the old house in the

approaches to the Church. I do not think that when my friend and I

were wandering there we noticed one curious feature which, however,

still exists to give one a glimpse of old Roman domestic ways—the queer

little cells, one on each side of the inner porch of Euphemian’s house,

where the slave porter, and his companion the watchdog, were _chained_,

opposite to each other, to their respective posts! What queer and

sympathetic confidences they must have exchanged sometimes!

Alexis surely prayed for his native city, but all the prayers of all

her Saints could not avert the trials that were to visit on Rome her

past sins. Constantine the Great believed that he had left the Church

in the West impregnable in strength and assured of peace; and for

nearly three centuries after his death she was forced to fight for her

existence almost as stubbornly as she had during the three centuries

preceding it. In 361, only twenty-four years after the death of

Constantine, Julian the Apostate reversed his edicts and strained every

nerve to reëstablish the worship of the Olympian deities. Paganism

was dead, and he failed in his iniquitous efforts to restore animation

to its corpse, but much suffering did he bring to the Church, and it

was only at the price of blood that she conquered in the end. After

Julian came the Barbarians—Alaric, Genseric, Odoacer, Totila—during the

short space of one hundred and thirty years Rome was taken and ravaged

five separate times, so that when, in 553, Narses, the prototype of

Napoleon, abolished the Senate and annexed the city to the Eastern

Empire, she had reached the lowest point in her history and was

scarcely regarded as a prize even by the Lombards, when, in response

to the invitation of Narses himself, they overran Italy from the Alps

to the sea, only to be finally expelled by Charlemagne some two hundred

years later.

But the Church had realised the truth of the saying that the darkest

hour comes just before the dawn. The high courage that had come

unscathed through such appalling conflicts rose gallant and audacious

in its certainty of final victory, and, at the very moment when Rome

seemed to be annihilated, decreed to it such a triumph as the world had

never seen before.

In 568, just a year after Narses, to gratify a personal spite, had

invited the hornet swarm of Lombards to cross the Alps, he died in the

city he had insulted. We must remember that there were two Romes: the

corporeal city, depopulated and impoverished, despoiled and dying—the

city of the government of the once proud “Senatus Populusque Romanus,”

which had failed signally at every point, and had crawled to the feet

of every conqueror; and the spiritual city, ruled by strong and holy

men, who patiently went on with their invisible building, adding stone

to stone with such calmness and patience that in contemplating their

work one is almost led to believe that they were unconscious of the

material ruin around them. During the forty years that followed the

death of Narses there was growing up in Rome a phalanx of learned and

holy ones to replace the leaders who had been found wanting, and we of

to-day are still the inheritors and possessors of the treasures they

amassed. While the grass grew unchecked in the streets and all who

could migrated to happier lands; while commerce and war turned aside

from the now worthless prize, and the poor tethered their few goats and

sheep in the courtyards of the great ruined houses, the Benedicts, the

Gregorys, the Bonifaces, with their clear-eyed, disciplined cohorts,

were building the Liturgy, building the monastic orders, building

the polity that guides and rules the Church and the Faithful to-day.

Nothing escaped them; whether it were a question of the right antiphon

for one of the psalms of a Nocturn, the placing on the Index some

doubtful legend of a Saint (like that of our St. George, which the

popular fancy was turning into a grotesque myth), the annihilation of

some startling new heresy which was raising its poisonous head, or the

question of bringing Constantinople to its senses by bold remonstrance

with the Emperor—to every detail was brought the thoroughness and

directness of trained minds, the compelling force of superior courage

and invincible intellect.

And this work had been going on silently and infallibly from the

moment that official persecution ceased. Through sieges and invasions,

desertions and desolations, the mills of God were grinding the grain

and filling the great storehouses with golden wealth. In 480, in

the little town of Nursia, high among the fastnesses of the Abruzzi,

where the snow lay thick in winter, as in the Alps, there was born

to the lord of the place a son, who was christened Benedict—“the

Blest,” and a little daughter, whom the father, a great admirer of

learning, called Scholastica. When these two passed away, sixty-three

years later, Literature and Saintliness were throned in Europe, and

hold their thrones still in the innumerable fortresses manned by the

spiritual descendants of the Nursian twins. Outside the Church few,

comparatively, knew their names when they died. Learning and piety

would scarcely exist for us had they not lived.

Italian Yesterdays, vol. 2 · 第 1 / 18 章