too ill to sit on his camel, so we have improvised a bed and placed
him on it, and in this way go slowly on. Started at 6:30 A.M. We
are still on a sandy undulating plain which seems endless, and the
march is very wearisome. The Consul and Mourgan have both suffered
from bleeding at the nose this morning. Camped for our nooning at
11:30. Poor Midani suffers exceedingly. We put up the tents, as
the heat is terrible. Started again at 4:30 P.M. From here till
one reaches the vicinity of Souakim the road is considered unsafe.
We met some rather wild-looking parties, who, the guides told us,
were brigands, but we were numerous and well armed, and they kept
a respectful distance from us. Even the camel drivers do not dare
to travel in this region without being armed with swords and spears
and pistols. Met several caravans. Came to some very steep sand
hills. The pass over the highest was so narrow and precipitous
that I thought the camels could not possibly get safely over it,
but they did. Reached the wells of _Aubak_ about 8:30 P.M. Found
many wells and excellent water, but the water is easily riled. Took
a good deep drink. Such a drink is worth a mine of gold on the
desert. There are a number of caravans here.
_Tuesday, April 11th._—The men did not want to leave the well
before the P.M. Had to force them. Almost a revolt. Quite a
little misunderstanding has sprung up between our friends. Left
at 7:30. Traversed a high plain. Fearfully hot. Camped at 11:30.
Were treated to a whirlwind of sand. Tried to amuse ourselves at
revolver practice to pass away the hours of intense mid-day heat.
Started again about 5 P.M. Passed on from plain to plain between
bare, black, rocky mountains. Camped at 10:30 in a sandy spot. Had
dinner at 12:30 A.M. We are all tired, but in pretty good spirits.
_Wednesday, April 12th._—Started at 7:30. Marched till 11:30. Found
a few bare thorn bushes and tried to spread our blankets over them
in such a way as to afford us a little shade till the caravan with
the tents came up. Even the poor little donkey that the guide
rides, and our camels, also, asked to share our scanty shade with
us. The thermometer stands at 111° in the shade. Cooked an egg in
the sand. Started again at 5 P.M. The latter part of the evening
journey I make on foot. The rest of the crowd is generally used
up. At last, Midani is able to go no further, and, on his account,
we are obliged to halt for the night. The camel drivers protest,
saying that the water is all gone, and that we shall suffer before
we reach the next well. We make a personal inspection and find
that there are five skins half full. One of these is given to the
drivers, one to the cooks, and three for our own use are placed at
the foot of my cot for safe keeping. Went to bed at 1:30 A.M.
_Thursday, April 13th._—Up at 4 A.M. Started at 5:45. We have had
a long tramp over plain after plain, on and on to the mountains
and through a high mountain pass till, at length, we have reached
the wells of Arieb. It is very hot. Crowds of camels, cattle and
donkeys are around the principal well, all drinking. The water is
not very good, but we drink it and try to imagine that it is. The
tents are up, and after a good bath we tumble into our cots, glad
of a little rest.
_Friday, April 14th._—Up early, and left at 6:30 A.M. Followed the
wady, which is full of rocks and stunted trees, and then traversed
an immense plateau. We camped for noon in a sandy spot, just before
entering another pass. At 5 P.M. we were off again, and passed
some very picturesque and really wonderful granite formations.
Traversing a fine hard gravel plain, which gave us an extensive
view, we passed the half-way mark, a huge pile of granite boulders.
We then came into a mountain region, said to be infested with
robbers. It is true that here, not very long ago, a caravan was
attacked in the night and robbed, and some of the parties killed.
We had come a long journey, the place was convenient for camping,
and some one proposed that we should spend the night here; but the
guides manifested great fear, and would not give their consent.
They said it was bad enough at the wady Kokreb, but under no
circumstances would they stop this side of the wady. Some of us
were ahead of the caravan, and we took the advice of the guides,
and pushed on for the wady. Soon after arriving and selecting the
spot for our camp, and while waiting for the caravan to come up, we
were visited by a couple of suspicious-looking men, who asked a few
questions, and after looking us well over disappeared in the bush.
The guides said they were spies of the robbers, and advised us to
fire off our guns and revolvers, to let them know that we were well
armed, which we did. In about half an hour the rest of the party
and the caravan came up. They reported having met twelve mounted
men, who acted suspiciously in the dark. Mr. Moussalli called to
them in Arabic, and demanded who they were and what they wanted.
They admitted that they were robbers. They were then told that our
party was all armed, and that if they came near the caravan they
would get into trouble. We formed our camp in a circle, spreading
our baggage around us for a protection as best we could, and
then went to sleep with our hands on our revolvers, trusting for
our safety, now that we had done what we could, in Him who never
slumbers.
_Saturday, April 15._—Examined the wady Kokreb to ascertain whether
there was water to be found here, which I suspected, but which the
guides denied. Found that there was a well a little way up the
wady, which we passed soon after starting. The guides seem to find
it easier to tell a barefaced falsehood than to speak the truth.
For some reason or other they are determined to deny the existence
of water at various points along the route, where we know it is to
be found. Left at 6:30 A.M., and followed the wady, which is quite
full of trees and rather a pleasant part of the journey. Towards
noon we arrived at Kokreb, where there is a well and a station. We
spread the fly of our tent over some old posts for a protection
from the sun. The sheik of the station kindly (for a consideration)
procured us a good drink of milk. Here we met a number of caravans.
There were many pilgrims among them returning from Mecca. One
woman, who was supposed to be irresistible, was sent among us to
beg. We offered her some food, which she indignantly refused.
The well here is shallow, and is emptied as fast as it fills. We
left at 4:20 P.M., passing through a wild, narrow defile in the
mountains. The scenery here is extremely wild and picturesque. We
ascended now very rapidly, and the sight of the mountains in the
purple glow of sunset was magnificent. As night came on it began
to grow intensely cold. We camped at a great height. The cold was
extreme. We got out our tent-flies and crawled under them.
_Sunday, April 16._—This morning we killed a scorpion that was
found under the Consul’s saddlebags. Saw several gazelles. Again
we are obliged to travel much against our wishes. There are trees
along the wadys all the way, now. Met many long caravans carrying
American oil to Berber and Khartoum. Camped at 10:30. At 4:30 we
were obliged to start again. The mountain scenery here is grand!
Toward night we entered a narrow gorge, running North and South,
between two high mountains. Here we had to keep a sharp lookout
in the dark, lest we should be left, like Absalom, hanging from a
tree. These overhanging thorn trees did, in fact, rather mar Mr.
Moussalli’s beauty, but the rest of us dodged and preserved ours.
We found several wells in between these two mountains, and here we
camped for the night. This is also a dangerous locality, on account
of robbers. The nights are very cold in these mountain heights.
_Monday, April 17._—Up early and examined the so-called wells of
Haratree. They consist of places scooped out in the gravel of the
dry bed of the river, and are only from two to five feet deep.
There is also a pond near a large rock, where one may bathe. There
are many aloes in this valley, and doves in great numbers, and in
at least three varieties. On quitting this gorge the rise is very
rapid till a pass is reached at an elevation of 3,000 feet. I am
the only one who is not ill to-day. Camped at 11 o’clock in a large
plain under a huge mimosa tree in the bed of a small river, now
dry. When we started in the afternoon there was a little trouble
with a Hadendoah Arab, who had “appropriated” one of our camels,
but his claim was soon settled, and he was glad to slink out of
sight. Off at 4 P.M., and traveled through quite a park, where
rabbits and gazelles abound. Camped at night at “Durse,” or “The
Mountain of the Molar Tooth.”
_Tuesday, April 18th._—Left at 6:30 A.M., and arrived at the Wells
of Disibil, where we found a rude shelter from the sun. I walked
the whole distance. Saw several gazelles. The wells are in the dry
bed of a river in a mountain valley. Only one is used now, the
other having filled up. After lunch went hunting after gazelles,
and when, later in the afternoon, we at last reached the rest of
the caravan, we found them camped earlier than usual. We are now in
the valley of Sinkaat. We know that we are nearing the sea, for the
night air is very damp, and our clothes are wet through.
_Wednesday, April 19th._—Had a good laugh this morning at the
Consul, who roused us during the night by loudly challenging some
parties who were prowling around the camp. They proved to be a
couple of innocent donkeys. Off as usual at 6:30, and followed the
valley and the river-bed. Camped at 10:30 at the well of _Hambouk_.
The water was not good. Left at 4 P.M. Came into a fine plain full
of green trees, and singing birds, and flocks of goats. Passed the
wells of Otaou (water bad) without stopping. At last we emerged
from the mountains, and came to the spot where we ought to have a
fine view of the sea, but it was dark. We camped finally on a broad
plain, though the drivers protested that we ought to go on beyond;
but they were informed that we intended to stop there, and that was
the end of the controversy. It is damp and warm to-night. Ibrahim,
our dragoman, is ill.
_Thursday, April 20th._—Midani and an Arab started this morning
at an early hour ahead of the caravan for Souakim, to inform our
friends of our arrival, and to prepare a place for us. We started
at 5:30 A.M. The first object to attract our attention was the sea,
the beautiful blue sea! What a thrill of joy that first sight of
the sea sends through one coming from Central Africa! It is a bond
of connection with the outer world. It is the highroad of commerce
and civilization. It is the avenue of hope, and love, and life! As
we approached Souakim we had fine views of the white, shining,
coral city. It was not long before we discovered with our glasses
a steamer lying in the harbor and another coming in. We took off
our hats and hurrahed like school-boys. Soon a delegation of
friends came out to meet us, among whom were M. Marquet’s son and
Mr. Midani’s brother. At last we entered the city. Doctor’s camel
was afraid, and had to be led in. We passed through the bazaars,
and over the causeway, and through the big gate into the city
proper, which is built on an island. The appearance of the town is
quite dazzling, as every portion of it is built of white coral.
We noticed some fine specimens in the walls as we passed. We went
directly to M. Marquet’s new house, not yet finished, where camping
room had been assigned us in the open yard, and here we sat down by
the sea waiting for the caravan to arrive. Finally we retired into
the entry of the unfinished house, where, as soon as our baggage
arrived, we spread our cots, and took up our quarters, and paid
off the camel drivers, who, for a wonder, went away contented.
There has been rather a serious misunderstanding between some of
our friends. It takes considerable self-control to keep quiet and
calm and cool amid the discomforts and annoyances of a journey
like this. Our first and great want was a bath, and this was soon
arranged in one of the upper rooms of the new building. Then we
put on some clean clothes, and felt as if we had been born again.
We made several calls, and finally went, by invitation, to dinner
at M. Marquet’s (brother of the gentleman of the same name at
Khartoum), where we spent a very pleasant evening. A small steamer
coming in to-day ran into our steamer of the Rubattino Line and
broke her mast. There are three steamers now in harbor, an unusual
thing for Souakim. We cannot sail before Saturday....
_Saturday, April 22._—Up and on deck early; friends off to say
farewell; started at 9 A.M.; had breakfast on deck. All our meals
are to be on deck, as it is so warm below. Had a fine view of
the town as we steamed slowly out of the harbor. The channel is
a tortuous and difficult one. Coral reefs abound on every side.
But after a little careful turning and twisting we were out on
the sea—the boundless sea. Oh! what a delight to be at sea again,
and breathe the refreshing salt air, after our experience during
the last few months! We have pleasant companions, and the voyage
promises to be an enjoyable one. At dinner conversation is carried
on, and jokes are cracked in French, English, Greek, Arabic, and
Italian. The captain is a pleasant, jovial, able man, and our
steamer is good and comfortable.
_Tuesday, April 25th._—A number of islands and the mainland on
both sides are in sight. Asia on one side; Africa on the other;
Arabia and Egypt, both full of historical interest. Here, towering
above others, is the peak pointed out as Mt. Sinai. We accept the
statement and fall to musing on the wonderful events that once
occurred in this vicinity. The Gulf is here from 15 to 17 miles
wide. There are great quantities of sea-weed floating about. The
shore on both sides is a desert. We are this evening only 50 miles
from Suez, and we expect to arrive about 4 o’clock in the morning.
_Wednesday, April 26th._—Arrived at Suez at 4 A.M. Cast anchor, and
waited for the Health Officer. Fourteen steamers were lying in the
roadstead, while others were entering and coming out of the canal.
Somewhere about here it was, probably, that the children of Israel
passed through the sea on dry land. The Health Officer did not take
long to give us clean papers, and we steamed slowly into dock. We
sent for a cart to take our baggage up to town, while the Consul
took a boat, then leaving Ibrahim, with Mourgan to assist him to
get the things through the custom-house, we went ashore. We were
immediately surrounded by a most importunate crowd of donkey boys
and men who in their eagerness to secure us as their legitimate
prey fought and pulled and pushed till we were nearly crowded into
the water. Seeing the necessity of immediate action, we struck
right and left with our sticks, till we had cleared a space around
us, then leaping on to the donkeys we had already selected, we
started off on a smart trot for the town; true, the donkeys had
lost their bridles in the muss, but that made no difference. We
arrived at the Suez (Eng.) Hotel with a good appetite for our
breakfast, and some time before the Consul and his party. After
breakfast we took a walk about the town. Returned and read the
papers till dinner. A mule cart with our baggage, has run away,
and smashed up some of our belongings, but we are getting above
caring much for such accidents now. At 5 P.M. we took another walk,
and then went by invitation to a dinner party at the Belgian and
Brazilian consuls. It was an extensive dinner, and the evening, till
a late hour, was passed most pleasantly.
_Thursday, April 27th._—Took the train for Cairo at 8:45. A number
of friends came to see us off. Fine views of the canal and the
desert, and then of the fertile land of Goshen. Took dinner at
Zagazig, where we changed cars and started again for Cairo at 3
P.M. At a station near Cairo Mr. Moussalli’s beautiful children
came to meet their papa, whom they had not seen for over a year.
They reminded me forcibly of my own little ones at home. Soon we
reached Cairo, and were greeted by the familiar faces of the hotel
porters and others. I started off at once to the American Consulate
for our letters, and found 27 waiting for me. What a feast for a
hungry soul! It seemed almost like getting home to get back to this
familiar hotel. Had a call from Dr. Lansing and Dr. Watson, of the
American Mission, who gave us a hearty welcome back after our long
and perilous journey. We truly have great reason to be thankful
for the way in which we have been preserved amid dangers seen and
unseen.
* * * * *
While in Cairo the news was received of the defeat of the army
sent against the “False Prophet,” and the fall of Senaar, and
of general anarchy in the Soudan. The insurrection under Arabi
Pasha was also every day becoming more serious. People were
already beginning to leave the country. The explorers were
advised by Gen. Stone and others not to broach the subject of
the proposed mission to the government in the present crisis.
They rapidly settled up the affairs of the expedition and
left the country none too soon for their good. They sailed
from Alexandria May 10th. They met the English and French
fleets, called at Malta and Gibraltar on their way and arrived
in Liverpool May 24th. While in England they consulted Mr.
Arthington, laid the results of the expedition before him, and
agreed that they would have to wait for a more settled state
of the country before the proposed plans for the mission could
be carried out. They sailed from England June 6th, arriving in
New York June 17th, having been gone from home nine months.
The long journey was ended. The objects of the expedition
had been fully accomplished in the face of many dangers and
great difficulties. A detailed report, with maps and plans and
photographs, is in course of preparation.—_Ed._
* * * * *
THE INDIANS
* * * * *
FARMING AT FORT BERTHOLD.
BY AGENT KAUFFMAN.
The number of Indian men engaged in doing farm work is constantly
increasing. In issuing wagons to Indians last fall, I required
that each man receiving a wagon should farm at least five acres of
land for himself, or forfeit his wagon. All, with one exception,
complied with this condition. Agency Indians farmed this year 832
acres; they prepared the ground in the spring under the direction
of my farmer in excellent manner, and sowed 146 acres of wheat,
from which I estimate a yield, from two days’ threshing now in
progress, of 2,600 bushels of very good quality. This is the first
effort of my Indians in raising wheat, and they are greatly elated
with their success, and many are already asking for more land for
next spring sowing. This improvement in farming by the Indians is
gratifying to myself, as two years ago an Indian rarely cultivated
to exceed from one-half to three-quarters of an acre; now some have
cultivated this year 20 acres, others from four to twelve, and ask
for more land for next year. Twenty Indian men, heads of families,
have consented to go this fall 22 miles west of the agency, build
houses and remain to farm 133 acres of land which I have had broken
this summer.
These Indians are peaceable and friendly; many would assume the
position of citizens and compare favorably with the average white
man if they could have lands in severalty and the protection of
the law. During May and June last I had flouring gearing put in
position in the agency mill for grinding wheat raised at this
agency last year, and manufactured 44,000 pounds of flour of
good quality; there were also sawn during the year at the agency
saw-mill 20,812 feet of lumber.
* * * * *
RELIGIOUS INTEREST AT S’KOKOMISH.
BY REV. MYRON EELLS.
There has been considerable religious interest among the Indians.
The Indians on other reservations have been more interested than
usual, and intercourse with these has caused a similar interest
here. Then the most severe sickness which has visited the
reservation since my residence here came upon us last winter and
awakened serious attention in the minds of many. This additional
interest has caused increased work, so that I now hold prayer
meetings at two logging camps regularly. Some of our young people
are taking hold of the work, and at times conduct meetings with the
Indians during my necessary absence.
New hymns have been made in the Twana and Clallam languages, the
native languages of the Indians. Hitherto we have used hymns in
the Chinook language, which is generally understood by most of
the Indians, yet it is by no means so good a language to convey
religious truth as the native languages.
The average attendance at Sabbath-school at S’kokomish is 47, on
church prayer meetings 30, on other prayer meetings among the
Indians 36, on public worship 67. Families under pastoral care 52.
Total contributions for benevolence $451.05.
* * * * *
SCHOOL AT LEECH LAKE.
BY REV S. G. WRIGHT.
Twenty-seven children were boarded and clothed about eight months
of the year, and fifteen attended very regularly as day scholars.
The text books used were elementary speller, model reader, first,
second and third readers, mental arithmetic. Several of the most
advanced pupils are also familiar with the four ground principles
of written arithmetic. Nearly all made good progress in their
studies. There is no lack of ability in the Indian child to
comprehend any branch of learning. The only obstacle in his way is
that all his knowledge of books must be acquired through a strange
language. The lessons must be explained all through the second
and third years of his schooling in his own tongue; otherwise he
gets no new ideas from his books, though he may read and spell
and write ever so well. I explain the meaning of the words they
spell, and translate the lessons read in the different readers.
Much religious instruction is given in the school-room and in the
morning and evening worship. I returned to this place a year ago,
after being absent about two years, and was very happy to find the
little company of earnest, devoted Christians whom we left still
faithfully pursuing their work for God. I meet with them every week
on Thursday afternoon for prayer. They are truly the salt of the
earth, burning lights in this great darkness.
* * * * *
THE CHINESE.
* * * * *
REVIEW OF THE YEAR.
REV. WM. C. POND.
Our fiscal year closed Aug. 31. I will state in the briefest way
the main facts as to our last year’s work. I group them under three
heads: the field, the fruit, the finances.
I. The field. This is larger than ever before in the fact that we
have one-fourth more Chinese in our country to-day than we had
a year ago. And the work—though far from covering the field and
far from being equal to the opportunity—has increased at a per
cent. equal to more than twice that of the increase of Chinese
population. Fifteen schools have been sustained, eleven of them
throughout the entire year. Thirty-one workers are employed, eleven
of them being Chinese. The total number of months of service is
356, exceeding that of last year by 70 and of any year preceding
the last by 110, that is, by more than _nine years_. During the
year no less than 2,567 Chinese were enrolled as pupils, an
increase upon the previous year of 935, or more than 57 per cent.
Let it not be understood that we had this number at any _one_
time; but for longer or shorter periods in the course of the
year, this number have come under the influence of our schools,
and have heard something about a Saviour from sin. The _average_
membership month by month was 728, and the average attendance 401.
But the membership increased steadily through the year. In August
it was 1,022, and the average attendance 459. This represents our
opportunity, our special _field_.