similar method to that of the Gouda.
Fresh milk is set at from 90° to 93° F. in summer and up to 97° in
winter,—colored to a rather high yellow with Annatto. Add sufficient
rennet to coagulate the milk in 8 to 15 minutes. Cut curd carefully with
the “lyre” and break with fork into very fine pieces, as small peas.
Leave to settle for 3 to 4 minutes, putting cover on the vat if the
temperature in the room is below 60°. When settled, the curd is gently
pushed into a heap which takes 5 to 6 minutes and the whey is removed
with a dipper. Weight is applied for 5 minutes and the tub or vat is
tipped so the whey will drain off while the curd is held back with the
dipper. This pressing is repeated twice more for 4 and 3 minutes
respectively.
[Illustration:
Curing room in a Gouda cheese factory
]
The curd should now be elastic and firm and show a temperature, in
winter of at least 83°, in summer at most 90°. If necessary the
temperature is regulated by pouring hot whey (not exceeding 104°) or
cold water over the curd.
The mold is then placed in the vat and two handfuls of curd put in which
is squeezed and worked thoroughly with the hands. More curd is added and
worked in the same way and this is repeated until the mold is full with
a large top on, which is pressed with the hands for 4 or 5 minutes,
turning the cheese 3 or 4 times and opening the drain holes if plugged
up. Some makers sprinkle a teaspoonful of fine salt in the bottom of the
mold, but in warm weather it is better to work in a quarter of an ounce
of salt. This work must be done quickly so the curd will not cool.
[Illustration:
Mold for Edam cheese
]
When thus formed the cheese is dipped for 1 or 2 minutes in fresh whey
heated to 126° (in winter 131°) and pressed with the hands in the mold
for another 2 minutes when it is carefully wiped off by rolling on a
fine cloth to remove the last drop of whey. The cheese is then wrapped
in a fine cloth, placed in the mold and put to press, in the Spring for
5 to 7 hours, later in the year for 12 hours. The cloth is now removed
and the cheese is put in a larger mold which is placed in a water-tight
salting box provided with a cover and a drain-hole in one end. The first
day a pinch of salt is put on the top of the cheese and the next the
whole cheese is rolled in damp salt, turned and put back in the mold, a
liberal quantity of salt being placed on the top. This is repeated every
day until the cheese from being soft and elastic becomes hard which as a
rule takes 8 to 10 days for a 4 lb. and 12 days for a 10-12 lb. cheese.
Finally the cheese is left a few hours in the brine collected in the
box, washed, wiped and placed on the shelf in the curing room.
The curing room should be light and well ventilated, never above 72° nor
below 45°. Windows must not be opened to admit dry wind or moist air. If
too dry the cheese will crack and if too moist it will be covered with
deleterious yellowish red fungi. The cheese is turned daily the first
month, later every other day or twice a week. When 24 to 30 days old the
cheese is soaked for one hour in water of 68 to 77°, washed with a
brush, dried for 20 to 40 minutes in the sun and returned to the shelf.
This is repeated two weeks later and then the cheese is painted with
linseed oil and left on the shelf until shortly before shipping when it
is scraped with a sharp knife and painted according to the demand of the
particular market for which it is prepared; yellowish with Annatto for
England and Spain, red with Turnsole for other countries. When dry it is
rubbed with a little butter and red color.
=Swiss Cheese.=—The Swiss Gruyere or Emmenthal also belongs to this
class. It is characterized by its form and size, being large, round and
flat, weighing 100 to 140 lbs. or more, and by the large holes which are
wanted in Swiss, but not tolerated in American or Dutch cheese. It was
formerly supposed that first-class Swiss cheese could only be made in
the Alps, but very good imitations have long been made in Northern New
York and in Wisconsin. Besides in the usual large round form, the same
as the genuine imported Emmenthaler, American Swiss or “Switzer” is also
made in _blocks_, six inches square and twenty inches long, weighing 25
to 30 lbs.
Until lately Swiss cheese has been made in the old-fashioned way, the
factory and tools being of the simplest description. The milk was heated
in a copper cauldron hanging on a crane, enabling the cheesemaker to
swing it on or off the fireplace. Nowadays the kettle is usually
jacketed and heated with steam. The round form is still preferred to the
American cheese vat, however, as it adapts itself better to the peculiar
method of handling the curd.
[Illustration:
Swiss cheese
]
The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 90° F. in summer and 95°
in winter, sufficient rennet being used to make a firm curd in thirty to
forty minutes. But very little color is added. The curd is cut with a
long, sharp wooden knife, the “cheese sword,” first one way into sheets,
then, as soon as the cuts stand clear, beginning to expel the whey,
crossways, into vertical sticks, two inches square.
[Illustration:
Scoop
]
[Illustration:
Cheese sword
]
[Illustration:
Cutting the curd with the scoop
]
[Illustration:
Tools for stirring the curd
]
No horizontal knife is used, but a few minutes after the last vertical
cutting the curd is further broken by the “scoop,” a wooden spoon or
ladle about eight inches long, thirteen inches wide, one and one-half
inches deep, and provided with a short handle. Standing at one side of
the kettle, the cheesemaker scoops off a layer from the top and, drawing
the scoop towards himself, drops the pieces of curd close to the side of
the kettle. This movement is repeated, at first slowly, then faster, and
soon the whole mass of curd is moving, the pieces cut off going down
along the side of the kettle and the rest of the sticks sliding upward
along the other side, to be attacked by the scoop as soon as they come
to the top. All the curd having been cut into square pieces, it is
further broken by the stirrer, a stick at the lower end of which a few
cross sticks or wings of brass wire are fixed, the whole mass being kept
in constant motion.
=Cooking the Curd.=—After breaking up the curd to the size of peas or
beans, the stirring is discontinued for about ten minutes, when it is
begun again and the kettle is turned over the fire, or steam is applied,
to heat the curd to 140° under constant stirring which is continued for
45 to 60 minutes after this temperature has been reached. The condition
of the curd is judged by squeezing a handful and noticing its elasticity
and consistency. It is important to stop stirring at the right moment.
More whey is expelled in making Swiss cheese than for Cheddar cheese.
The cooking and agitating having been finished, the mass, which now
consists of grains the size of wheat, is once more stirred up with such
force as to make it form a funnel at the center and it is then left at
rest for five to ten minutes.
The curd, forming a rather solid cake at the bottom of the kettle, is
now lifted out without being broken. One end of a large piece of cloth
is folded around a flexible rod. Bending over the kettle the maker takes
hold of both ends of the rod and gathering the other end of the cloth
between his teeth, pushes the rod down along the farther side of the
kettle, letting it follow the bottom towards himself until the whole
mass of curd is gathered in the cloth, when it is lifted out of the
kettle and placed in the hoop on the press table. The hoop can be
enlarged or diminished to take care of a varying amount of curd which is
put into it in the same solid cake as formed in the kettle without being
broken. Pressure is applied, at first, gently, later heavier and after
half an hour the cheese is taken out, turned and provided with fresh
bandage, put back into press and left till the next day.
[Illustration:
In Swiss cheese making the curd is lifted out of the vat with a strong
cloth
]
Curing and Salting.—The cheese is first placed in a curing room above
ground and heated in winter. After a few weeks it is removed to the
cellar. Sometimes three to five cheese are piled one on the top of the
other for a few days with a few handfuls of salt between them. The
salting proper is done by rubbing and brushing dry salt and the brine
formed from same into the cheese,—altogether 4 to 5 lbs. of salt to 100
lbs. of cheese. Every day it is rubbed with a dry rag and the cheese is
turned and salted on the other side until the salt is thoroughly
incorporated.
[Illustration:
Swiss cheese press
]
The cheese is cured for at least 100 days in the factory and is usually
stored for another three to six months by the dealer before it is ready
for the consumer.
=Roquefort.=—The French _Roquefort_ is inoculated with a mold from stale
bread which spreads through the cheese and produces the peculiar flavor
of this type. It is made from sheep’s milk and was formerly cured in
cool subterranean caverns, but now in elaborate curing houses. In this
country imitation Roquefort is made of cow’s milk and cured in cold
storage.
It should be remembered, however, that sheep’s milk is very rich in fat
and that a rich Roquefort that will compare favorably with the genuine
cannot be made from cow’s milk without an addition of cream if sheep’s
or goat’s milk is not available. In France a small addition of cow’s
milk to the sheep’s milk—not to exceed 10%—is often used.
Around Roquefort a milk ewe produces on an average 135 lbs. of milk a
year, which makes up to 35 lbs. of cheese.
[Illustration:
Milking the ewes at Roquefort, France (G. Ellbrecht)
]
The milk is set at about 80° with rennet sufficient to coagulate it in
1½ to 2 hours. To cut or break and stir the curd, tools similar to those
used in the manufacture of Dutch cheese are employed and stirring is
continued until the pieces of curd are about the size of peas when the
whey is dipped off and the curd is further broken with the hand and
placed on a cloth to drain. In fifteen minutes it is ready to be put
into the hoops which are either of glazed stoneware or perforated tin, 8
inches in diameter by 4 in. high.
Ground stale, moldy bread is sprinkled in the curd as it is put into the
hoop, at the rate of 1 part of bread to 10,000 parts of curd. This moldy
bread is prepared from 2 parts of wheat flour and 1 part of rye flour
leavened with sour yeast and vinegar and baked hard. The loaf is placed
in a dark, moist cellar to mold. In six weeks it is penetrated with mold
when it is dried at 86° and pulverized, forming the powder used for
inoculation into the cheese-curd.
When the hoops are filled they are placed in large wooden boxes at a
temperature of 65° to 70° for the whey to drain off. The first few days
the cheese is turned three times a day, later once a day, and when five
days old it is brought into the curing room where it remains until it is
firm enough to be shipped to the large cold storage establishments,
where it is taken care of until ready for the general market.
In the “caves” a high degree of moisture, a low temperature—40° to
50°—and pure air are essential conditions.
The cheese is first _salted_ by being rubbed repeatedly with salt on all
sides. The slime forming on the surface is brushed or scraped off so as
not to prevent the admission of air, which is essential to the curing.
In order to further facilitate the penetration with air the cheese is
now _pricked_ with numerous needles by means of a machine and placed on
the shelf in the cave where the proper moisture and temperature are
maintained.
Various fermentations are now developing, one after another, regulated
by scraping, ventilation, etc., until in six to twelve weeks the cheese
is ready for the market and is packed for shipment in paper or in
tinfoil and in wicker baskets or airtight boxes, according to
destination,—for home consumption or for export.
[Illustration:
Curing room in a Roquefort cheese factory (G. Ellbrecht)
]
=Parmesan Cheese= is an Italian cheese made mostly in the Valley of the
River Po and named from the City of Parma. It is produced from
partly-skimmed milk and is allowed to become hard and dry, being used
grated with macaroni.
The milk is set with rennet at a comparatively high temperature, about
95° F., and when it is firmly curdled it is broken up and stirred rather
vigorously, which makes the curd fine and dry. Color is now
added—powdered _Saffron_—at the rate of 0.5 gram to 100 kg. milk. The
curd is cooked slowly under constant stirring to a temperature up
towards 100° when the whey should be perceptibly acid.
The curd is then allowed to settle in the round kettle and when fairly
firm it is lifted up in a cloth, the same as in Swiss cheesemaking. The
mold is also much the same as the Swiss and the curd is but slightly
pressed. In the course of the day the cheese is turned once or twice and
put into fresh cloth. The next day it is put into the curing room when
it is rubbed with salt. In a few months the cheese is cured and is then
scraped and polished with linseed oil. Sometimes it is kept in storage
two or three years in a dark room at a temperature of 63° F. The
composition averages: 32% water, 21% fat, 41% nitrogenous matters and 6%
ash.
[Illustration:
Caccio Cavallo
]
=Caccio Cavallo= is made in Southern Italy of a form almost like a
beetroot. The milk is set with rennet at about 95° F. and after the curd
has been broken up the whey is dipped off and heated to boiling when it
is poured back on the curd. The mass is then allowed to ferment eight to
fourteen hours according to the temperature of the air. The quality of
the cheese depends largely on this fermentation. The fermented curd is
cut into pieces and submerged in boiling water and is then kneaded and
formed into the desired shape.
After lying in cold water for two hours and in brine for thirty hours it
is dried and smoked until it attains a fine golden color. It is made in
various sizes, from 5 to 20 pounds, and the yield is said to vary from
10% to 16% of the milk. Caccio Cavallo is eaten on bread as well as with
macaroni and is much relished by the Italians.
=Limburger=, =Brick=, =Munster= and other similar semi-soft cheese of
the proverbial strong flavor, originated in Belgium and Bavaria, but are
now largely made in Northern New York and Wisconsin as well.
For Limburger the milk is not ripened as for Cheddar but is set with
rennet quite sweet at a temperature of about 90°; the curd is cut rather
soft, care being taken, however, not to lose butter-fat. The curd is but
slightly “cooked,” to a temperature not to exceed 96°, and is not salted
in the vat but is dipped out into perforated wooden boxes or molds about
5 inches square and left to drain without pressure. The cheese are
placed edgeways like bricks on shelves and are rubbed with salt and
turned every day until cured. During the curing process moisture exudes
and a fermentation takes place which develops the well-known “Limburger”
flavor. After eight or ten weeks the cheese is packed in paper and
tinfoil and is ready for the market.
=Brick= cheese is something between a Cheddar and a Limburger, of a
milder flavor than either, not as hard as the former but firmer than the
latter.
The milk is slightly ripened and is set with rennet at 86° so as to
coagulate in 20 minutes. The curd is “cooked” to 110° or more and is not
allowed to “mat” as for Cheddar cheese, but is dipped out of the vat
before much acidity has developed, into the molds, which are rectangular
boxes without top or bottom placed on a draining table where the whey
runs off.
The mold is usually 5 inches wide, 8 inches deep and 10 inches long.
When it is filled with curd a follower is put on the top and a slight
weight, a couple of bricks, on the follower. The cheese is turned a few
times and the next day it is taken out of the mold and placed on the
salting table. The salting is done by rubbing the cheese on all sides
with salt which penetrates the curd and draws out moisture. This is
repeated for 3 days and the cheese is then left to cure, being washed
and wiped off every week to prevent molding.
Brick cheese is shipped one or two months old. It is wrapped in paper
and packed twenty in a box.
=Munster Cheese= is very much the same as Brick except for the form, it
being round, molded in a perforated tin hoop instead of the box used for
Limburger and Brick.
SOFT RENNET CHEESE
The soft cheese made with rennet may be classified as _fresh_ and
_cured_.
=Neufchatel.=—The fresh soft cheese of the _Neufchatel_ or _Cream
Cheese_ type is easily made and may be produced in any house from a
small quantity of milk. The milk is set at a comparatively low
temperature, usually 72° F., with very little rennet, just enough to
coagulate the milk in about eighteen hours. During that time a slight
acidity develops in the milk. When it is firmly curdled it is carefully
dipped on to cheese-cloth suspended on a frame, or into cotton bags
where it drains overnight.
To make the cheese quickly a starter is sometimes used and more rennet
employed. The milk is heated to 80° F., 25% starter and 7½ c.c. of
rennet extract, or one rennet tablet per hundred pounds of milk, are
added and the milk curdles in about 30 minutes.
After draining for a few hours the curd is gently pressed for a similar
time. When the whey is fairly well expelled, the curd is kneaded or run
through a meat cutter with a little salt, not more than 2½ oz. to 10
lbs. of curd. The outfit and the manipulation is essentially the same as
described under Cottage cheese.
A superior quality is obtained by pasteurizing the milk and if that is
done a pure culture starter should always be used. If the slow setting
method is used a very small amount of starter, say ½%, is sufficient,
but when the quick process is employed 10% to 25% may be added.
[Illustration:
Molding Neufchatel cheese
]
To give it a good appearance for market, the cheese is molded in little
tin molds very much like a quarter-pound baking powder can with open
ends. The cylindrical roll of cheese is wrapped in parchment paper and
tinfoil and is immediately ready for consumption. In an ice box it will
keep for a week or so. Neufchatel cheese may be made from whole milk or
partly-skimmed milk. The yield is from 10 to 20 lbs. out of 100 lbs. of
milk.
=Cream Cheese= is usually made in the same way. A mixture of cream and
milk containing about 10% butter-fat is used, though sometimes the cream
is not added until the time of salting. The mold is square, 2½” × 1½” ×
2” deep. These soft kinds of cheese are often mixed with chopped
peppers, olives or nuts and make excellent sandwiches.
=Cured Soft Cheese.=—For _Cream_ or _Neufchatel_ cheese, made for
curing, the curd is salted more than for fresh cheese, or the molded
cheese is rolled in salt. For a week or two it is placed in a curing
room on straw mats or the like where it ferments slightly before being
wrapped and packed for shipment.
=French Soft Cheese.=—The many forms of French soft cheese as
represented by the _Brie_, the _Camembert_, etc., are subjected to
special fermentations which give to each its peculiar flavor. Attempts
have been made to use pure cultures of the bacteria active in such
fermentations and so reduce the art of cheesemaking to a more scientific
process. But it has been found that any desired kind of cheese cannot be
made simply by adding a culture of this or that bacterium to pasteurized
milk. Of vastly greater importance for the development of the proper
bacteria and flavor is the handling of the milk and the curd by the
experienced cheesemaker. Inoculation with a pure culture alone does not
make the special cheese wanted.
CHEESE MADE WITHOUT RENNET
[Illustration:
Mono-service jar
]
=Cottage Cheese.=—Of the sour milk types the common _Cottage Cheese_ is
the best known. It is made from skim milk which in a warm room will
curdle when sour, whether rennet and a starter are used or not. The
thick sour milk is heated to anywhere between 100° and 120° and dipped
into bags of cheese-cloth hung up for draining. The next day light
pressure is applied for 12 to 24 hours, when the curd is kneaded,
slightly salted, formed into balls and wrapped in parchment paper or
packed into jars. For this purpose paraffined paper jars are very
practical.
The more the curd is heated in the whey the drier will be the cheese.
Often it is improved by allowing the curd to become rather dry and then
working new milk or a little cream into it, according to the use to
which it is to be put—whether it is for bakers’ stock or for the table.
Simple directions for making Cottage cheese are given in Farmers’
Bulletin 850 and A. I. 17, issued by the United States Department of
Agriculture from which we reprint the following and copy the
accompanying illustrations:
[Illustration:
Pouring the curdled milk on cloth to drain
]
“One gallon of skim milk will make about 1½ pounds of cheese. If the
milk is sweet it should be placed in a pan and allowed to remain in a
clean warm place at a temperature of about 75° F., until it clabbers.
The clabbered milk should have a clean, sour flavor. Ordinarily this
will take about 30 hours, but when it is desirable to hasten the process
a small quantity of clean-flavored sour milk may be mixed with the sweet
milk.
“As soon as the milk has thickened or firmly clabbered it should be cut
into pieces 2 inches square, after which the curd should be stirred
thoroughly with a spoon. Place the pan of broken curd in a vessel of hot
water so as to raise the temperature to 100° F. Cook at that temperature
for about 30 minutes, during which time stir gently with a spoon for 1
minute at 5-minute intervals.
[Illustration:
Lifting the cloth back and forth to facilitate draining
]
“At the conclusion of the heating, pour the curd and whey into a small
cheese-cloth bag (a clean salt bag will do nicely) and hang the bag in a
fruit-strainer rack to drain, or the curd may be poured into a colander
or a strainer over which a piece of cheese-cloth has been laid. After 5
or 10 minutes work the curd toward the center with a spoon. Raising and
lowering the ends of the cloth helps to make the whey drain faster. To
complete the draining tie the end of the bag together and hang it up.
Since there is some danger that the curd will become too dry, draining
should stop when the whey ceases to flow in a steady stream.
[Illustration:
Pressing the curd
]
“The curd is then emptied from the bag and worked with a spoon or a
butter paddle until it becomes fine in grain, smooth, and of the
consistency of mashed potatoes. Sour or sweet cream may be added to
increase the smoothness and palatability and improve the flavor. Then
the cheese is salted according to taste, about one teaspoonful to a
pound of curd.
“Because of the ease with which the cheese can be made it is desirable
to make it often so that it may be eaten fresh, although if it is kept
cold it will not spoil for several days. If the cheese is not to be
eaten promptly it should be stored in an earthenware or glass vessel
rather than in one of tin or wood, and kept in a cold place.”
[Illustration:
Apparatus needed in making cottage cheese
]
=Making Cottage Cheese with Rennet.=—In the bulletin mentioned a method
is also given for making the cheese with rennet or pepsin. Junket
Tablets make a convenient form of rennet to be used for this purpose.
The advantages claimed for this method are:
1. A finer textured and more uniform cheese.
2. The making requires less time and attention.
3. Losses of fat in the whey are reduced.
The process is the same as described above except that a solution of
_Junket Tablets_ is added to the milk at the rate of one tablet to 100
lbs. of milk. For less milk use a fraction of a tablet, or dissolve one
tablet in ten tablespoonfuls of water and use one spoonful of the
solution for each 10 lbs. of milk.
If a starter is used the rennet solution is added immediately after the
starter is put in; if no starter is used the milk is left for five or
six hours at 80° F. to ripen before adding the rennet. The milk will
curdle overnight.
After draining for thirty minutes on cotton sheeting the ends of the
cloth are tied together and a weight is placed on top to press the curd
gently until the desired consistency is attained.
Salt may be worked in at the rate of 2½ ounces to 10 lbs. of curd. If
desired, add sweet or sour cream at the rate of ½ pint to 10 lbs. of
curd or ¼ pint of cream to the product from 30 lbs. of milk.
It will be seen that Cottage cheese made with rennet is really the same
as Neufchatel cheese, the only difference being in the form and packing
or wrapping of the finished cheese.
=Snappy Cheese.=—By allowing the sour skim milk curd to ferment under
careful regulation, a variety of sharp, snappy, more or less hard cheese
can be made. Though there is no general demand for them, some kinds are
quite popular in their own restricted localities. The Danish _Appetite
cheese_ is only one of the many varieties which have as many names.
=Club Cheese= and similar varieties are made by grinding up old dry
cheese with a little butter and packing the product in jars or other
attractive packages. American, Roquefort, or any other well-known type
may be used as the stock for these cheeses. Everywhere they are
favorites in dining cars and lunch rooms.
[Illustration:
Milking the goat in Norway
]
=Whey Cheese.=—In Switzerland the so-called _Zieger cheese_ is made from
sour whey, the albumin being coagulated by heat and, with whatever
butter-fat there may be left in the whey, skimmed off the top. In Norway
_Myseost_ (“Ost” is Norwegian for cheese) is made by boiling down whey
almost to dryness. If goat milk is available to mix in, it improves the
cheese. The main substance is sugar of milk and the cheese has a sweet,
syrupy flavor.
MILK SUGAR
The by-product, sugar of milk, is produced by acidifying the whey,
heating to boiling and neutralizing with lime until the albumin is
coagulated. It is then filtered out and the clarified liquid is
concentrated in vacuum. From the thick syrup the sugar is allowed to
crystallize out, leaving the salts or mineral matters (milk-ash) in the
remaining liquid. The use of milk-sugar is limited to medicinal purposes
and for modifying milk for infants. The production is therefore not very
extensive.
CASEIN
In a number of creameries casein is produced from skim milk by
precipitating it with an acid and drying and pulverizing the
precipitate. Casein is widely used as a substitute for ivory, in
billiard balls, buttons, etc. It is also used as glue, and as a binder
in paints.
MILK POWDER
The production and use of dry milk has increased enormously during the
last few years and the processes of manufacture have been improved
well-nigh to perfection. There are several methods practiced, the most
important being the following:
The _Just-Hatmaker_, in which a large metal drum or cylinder revolves
slowly in a tank of milk. The drum is heated by steam inside and, as it
rolls out of the milk, the metal surface picks up a thin film of milk
which quickly dries and is removed by a scraper.
The _Eckenberg_ process employs vacuum evaporating pans, like those used
for making condensed milk and maple syrup.
The _Merrell-Soule_ Company’s method consists in driving a blast of hot
air into a fine spray of milk, which at once reduces the milk to a fine
powder.
In the “_Economic_” process the milk is dried by hot air the same as in
the Merrell-Soule method, but in dropping through a tower from a height
of some 30 feet the milk meets several blasts of air of different
temperatures. It is claimed that in this way alone rich milk and cream
may be reduced to a powder without injury to, or change of, the original
fat globules.
=Skim Milk Powder.=—Beautiful skim milk powders are now made which
dissolve perfectly in water. Containing, as they do, the extremely
nourishing constituents of the fatless milk in a most palatable form,
they can be used in baking and in many food products to great advantage.
=Whole Milk Powder.=—Until recently dried whole milk was not produced of
good keeping quality as the butter-fat had a tendency to become rancid
before many months. But improvements are constantly being made and milk
powders of every degree of richness bid fair to take the place of fresh
milk on board ships and in other places where milk must be kept a long
time before being used.
In many new food preparations of value, milk powder is filling a
long-felt want. Dissolved in 8 or 9 times as much water, milk powder
makes a liquid almost identical with pasteurized fresh milk.
It has already been mentioned under the chapter on “Cream” and under
“Ice Cream” how skim milk powder and unsalted butter, _emulsified_ in a
suitable amount of water or milk, make an excellent material for ice
cream.
CONDENSED AND EVAPORATED MILK
Milk cannot be boiled down in a common open kettle or steam boiler
without being scorched. Evaporating or condensing is therefore usually
done in a vacuum pan at a low temperature. Condensed to one-third of its
volume and excluded from the air by canning, milk will keep well for
months, and has many uses as a substitute for fresh milk. Often sugar is
added as a preservative, and where sugar would be added anyway, as in
coffee, ice cream, etc., this is unobjectionable.
For purposes where sugar is not wanted, unsweetened condensed or
evaporated milk is on the market, so carefully made that the taste of
the original milk is hardly changed at all by the process. When water is
added in the proportion of two parts of water to one of the evaporated
milk, the fluid obtained excels even that from milk powder in its
resemblance to fresh milk.
WHEY
Whey is a by-product in cheesemaking. Usually it is fed to hogs and
especially together with grain or bran it makes an excellent food for
them. But whey is also prepared for human food. In the hospital or in
the home it serves as a substitute for milk when a mild diet of easily
digested food is temporarily required for a weak stomach. For such
purposes it must not be allowed to become acid as in cheesemaking, but
should be prepared as the chief product from sweet new milk or freshly
separated skim milk. The sweet milk is set with rennet—one Junket
Tablet, dissolved in cold water, to a quart of milk—at a temperature of
90° to 100° F. As soon as a firm curd is formed it is carefully broken
up and transferred to a strainer of cheese-cloth. Unless it is to be
used at once, the whey strained off should be immediately cooled to 50°
or lower. If left at a higher temperature it will soon become sour. A
teaspoonful of limewater to a quart, or a pinch of soda, will help to
keep it sweet. Still, in any event, it should not be kept long, but
prepared fresh when required.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHAPTER IV
MILK AS A FOOD
Milk is first of all the food for the young,—until a certain age the
only food, and a perfect food. It contains but little refuse or waste
and is under favorable conditions almost wholly digestible.
NUTRIENTS
All foods contain certain groups of nutrients which may be classified
according to various functions in nutrition and their chemical
composition.
=Protein.=—The protein group of nutrients contains nitrogen and is
necessary for building up the tissues of the body, the muscles and the
tendons which also contain nitrogen. Only by this group can tissues
wasted by constant wear and tear be rebuilt. Proteins are the
flesh-forming group. To some degree the proteins or albuminoids are also
active in producing fat in the body, but the other groups of nutrients,
especially the fats, also contribute.
=Fats and Carbohydrates.=—Another important function of food is to
produce and maintain the animal heat. The main sources of this necessity
are the fats and the carbohydrates, so called because they consist of
the element carbon combined with oxygen and hydrogen, the last two in
the exact proportion in which they are combined in water. All of these
three groups furnish the fuel, so to speak, for the body, but they are
not equal in this respect. Pound for pound, when burned in the body, the
fats yield 2¼ times as much heat as protein or the carbohydrates.
=Mineral Matters.=—Finally there are in all foods the mineral matters, a
group containing a number of salts which are indispensable because they
are constituents of every part of the body. Phosphate of lime, for
instance, makes up one-half of the substance of the bones, and the
sulphates and chlorides of potash and soda, iron, etc., are everywhere
present in smaller quantities. No food in which any of them is lacking
is complete.
=Relation.=—The value of a food depends largely upon the relation of one
group of nutrients to another. Proper nutrition can only be obtained
when a sufficient amount of flesh-forming as well as of heat-producing
nutrients are present, when the “nutritive ratio” is properly balanced
for the particular purpose in view, be it the growth of the child, the
maintenance of the body, the restoration of matter consumed by labor of
body or brain, or the supply of heat to make up for cold surroundings.
=Milk contains all= of these groups of nutrients. The protein is
represented in milk by the casein and albumin, the fats by the
butter-fat, the carbohydrates by milk-sugar, and the mineral matters by
the milk-ash. Human milk contains them in a perfect proportion for
infants, and for all purposes of nutrition cow’s milk may be used to
make up a “balanced ration,” if not alone, then in connection with other
food.
=Nutritive Ratio.=—As we said before, the “nutritive ratio” of a food
means the ratio of its flesh-forming constituents—proteins—to its
heat-producing nutrients—carbohydrates and fats. Cow’s milk, containing
3.25% protein, 4% fat and 5% milk-sugar, has a nutritive ratio of 1 :
4.3, i. e., 1 part of protein to 4.3 parts of heat-giving nutrients,
counting the fat equal to 2¼ of carbohydrates (multiplying the 4% fat by
2¼ makes 9, added to the 5% of sugar, makes 14; 3.25 to 14 equals 1 to
4.3). Skim milk, containing 3.4% protein, 0.2% fat, and 5.1% sugar, has
a ratio of 1 : 1.6 (3.4 : 5.45). Mother’s milk, containing 2% protein,
4% fat, and 6.5% carbohydrates, has a ratio of 1 : 7.75. To substitute
cow’s milk for mother’s, it must therefore be “modified.”
=Calories.=—Another way of comparing various foods than by the nutritive
ratio is by measuring their “fuel value” or energy-producing capacity.
The amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one kilogram of
water 1° C., or one pound 4° F., is called a calorie. By extensive
feeding experiments the caloric value of the various nutrient groups has
been estimated as follows:
Protein at 1820 calories per pound[9]
Fats at 4040 calories per pound
Carbohydrates at 1820 calories per pound
Measured by this rule the fuel value of:
Whole milk is 310 calories per
pound
Skim milk is 160 calories per
pound
Full cream 1885 calories per
cheese is pound
Butter is 3410 calories per
pound
Compared with other food, milk, although not suited to act as the sole
food of adults, is one of the best and cheapest articles of diet, and
should be much more extensively used.
The following table, compiled by specialists of the U. S. Department of
Agriculture, shows the quantities of various foods needed to supply as
much protein or energy as 1 quart of milk:
┌────────────────────────────┬────────────────────────────┐
│ Protein │ Energy │
├────────────────────────────┼────────────────────────────┤
│1 quart of milk is equal to—│1 quart of milk is equal to—│
│ 7 ounces of sirloin steak │ 11.3 ounces of sirloin │
│ 6 ounces of round steak │ steak │
│ 4.3 eggs │ 14.9 ounces of round steak│
│ 8.6 ounces of fowl │ 9 eggs │
│ │ 14.5 ounces of fowl │
└────────────────────────────┴────────────────────────────┘
Another method of comparison is shown by the table below, in which the
relative value of certain foods as economical sources of protein is
given:
┌────────────────┬──────────────────┬──────────────────┐
│ │ Is as cheap as │ │
│ Milk at— │sirloin steak at— │ Or eggs at— │
├────────────────┼──────────────────┼──────────────────┤
│7 cents a quart │16.3 cents a pound│17.6 cents a dozen│
│8 cents a quart │18.6 cents a pound│20.1 cents a dozen│
│9 cents a quart │21.0 cents a pound│22.6 cents a dozen│
│10 cents a quart│23.3 cents a pound│25.1 cents a dozen│
│12 cents a quart│27.9 cents a pound│30.2 cents a dozen│
│15 cents a quart│34.9 cents a pound│37.7 cents a dozen│
└────────────────┴──────────────────┴──────────────────┘
According to this table, if milk is selling at 10 cents a quart, sirloin
steak must sell as low as 23.3 cents a pound, and eggs at 25.1 cents a
dozen to supply protein at equal cost.
_To Supply Energy at Equal Cost_
┌────────────────┬──────────────────┬──────────────────┐
│ │ Sirloin steak │ │
│When milk is— │ must not │ And eggs not │
│ │ be more than— │ more than— │
├────────────────┼──────────────────┼──────────────────┤
│7 cents a quart │9.9 cents a pound │ 9.3 cents a dozen│
│8 cents a quart │11.3 cents a pound│10.6 cents a dozen│
│9 cents a quart │12.8 cents a pound│11.9 cents a dozen│
│10 cents a quart│14.2 cents a pound│13.2 cents a dozen│
│12 cents a quart│17.0 cents a pound│15.9 cents a dozen│
│15 cents a quart│21.3 cents a pound│19.8 cents a dozen│
└────────────────┴──────────────────┴──────────────────┘
=Fallacy of Theoretical Valuation.=—While the contents of protein and
the ratio between digestible protein and fats and carbohydrates on one
hand, and the fuel or energy value on the other, have long been the only
recognized measures for food values, they are admittedly quite
inadequate and insufficient and although they are a great help when used
with discrimination in making up food rations, they are often abused by
persons who do not take their fallacies into consideration.
[Illustration:
Dr. E. V. McCollum
]
“=Something Unknown.=”—Recent investigations by Dr. F. G. Hopkins, of
Cambridge, England, and Dr. E. V. McCollum, formerly of Wisconsin, now
of the Johns Hopkins University, have proven conclusively that one food
ingredient cannot always be substituted for another with impunity even
though the most searching chemical analysis shows them both alike in
contents and digestibility. There is “Something Unknown” in certain
foods—“Vitamines” some call it—essential especially in promoting the
growth of the young, which our present knowledge of chemistry cannot
explain. In Bulletin No. 17 of the Wisconsin Experiment Station
experiments with the feeding of rats are described which show how
butter-fat could not be replaced in the ration by vegetable fats of
apparently the same composition and digestibility without disastrous
results, and similar conditions have been found in regard to other
foodstuffs, proteins as well as fats. The yolk of eggs and butter-fat
contain this unknown something which is absolutely essential for the
growth of the child and which is missing in most substitutes, especially
in lard and vegetable fats.
[Illustration:
The rat on the left got five per cent of cottonseed oil and the one on
the right got instead one and a half per cent of butter-fat,
otherwise their rations were alike. These results are typical for
any ration made up of purified foodstuffs with butter-fat in them as
compared with any fat of plant origin. The plant fats lack an
unknown something without which growth cannot proceed.
]
The above illustration is from the work of McCollum and Davis at the
Wisconsin Experiment Station.
Realizing the fallacy of the old rules for making up rations for the
feeding of farm animals, Professor Evvard of Iowa is trying the
_reliability_ of the _instincts_ of animals as a guide to the proper
selection of the most favorable combinations and proportions of food
ingredients.[10]
We mention these experiments as a warning against placing too great
reliance on the caloric theory or the relation of nutrients in making up
food rations. We have yet much to learn and the good housewife trying to
cook according to scientific rules will do well not to neglect the
palatability of the food, but to watch the “instinct” which causes the
child or the adult to reject or approve of, and enjoy, the food, which
in most cases is a better guide than calories or protein contents, or
the ration between the various groups of nutrients.
CARE OF MILK IN THE HOME
If received fresh and warm from the cow, milk should at once be strained
through absorbent cotton or several thicknesses of cheese-cloth into
wide-mouthed bottles or glass jars and placed in running water or ice
water to cool as quickly as possible. If obtained from the milkman it
may be left in the bottle in which it is received. The practice of
delivering milk “loose,” dipping it from the wagon, should not be
permitted, and is fast being abolished. Public safety demands that it
should be bottled on the farm or in the creamery or milk station under
sanitary conditions.
=Keep the Milk Cool.=—If the milk when delivered at the house is not
cold enough to keep sweet as long as desired, it should, we repeat, be
placed in ice water or cold running water until thoroughly cooled. Even
if the air is cold, in the ice box, for instance, the milk cannot be
cooled quickly enough without water. After it has been cooled in water
it may be put in the ice box. In most ice boxes the temperature is
allowed to rise higher than is generally supposed, and it is better to
keep the milk bottle next to the ice than in the food compartments.
[Illustration:
A clean ice box
]
Milk and cream easily absorb flavors from the air and should not be kept
in open vessels next to other food. Any housekeeper knows how quickly
milk or cream will be tainted by standing in the same compartment with
onions or muskmelons; if the bottle is not covered, milk may also be
contaminated by other less noticeable but more harmful vapors from
nearby products. Let the milkman furnish you with some extra milk bottle
caps, or cover your milk bottle with an inverted tumbler.
As has been shown in previous chapters, milk is a favorable soil for all
sorts of germs and bacteria to grow in. It must therefore be kept from
contamination with the utmost care, and everything that comes in contact
with it must be scrupulously clean.
=Top-Milk.=—When the milk has been standing at rest three or four hours,
the top-milk will be considerably richer than the rest. If such rich
milk is wanted for any particular purpose it may be poured off, to be
eaten with cereals, berries, etc. In twelve hours most of the cream will
rise and may be skimmed off, although thirty-six or even forty-eight
hours may be required to get all that can be obtained by setting. The
half-skimmed milk left when the top-milk has been removed after 3 to 6
hours’ setting will still contain 2% or more of butter-fat and is very
good for drinking; even the skim milk from which the cream has been
taken after 12 hours’ setting is still an excellent beverage, provided
it is sweet. Perfectly skimmed, almost entirely fatless, milk may be
used in various ways in cooking, to make up for lack of protein in many
other food products. But care must be taken that it is pure and sweet,
or rather, its condition, sweet or sour, must be under the perfect
control of the housekeeper. If a sample of milk will stand scalding or
even boiling without curdling, it is usually fresh and in good condition
for any use. On the other hand, if it curdles by scalding, it is beyond
control and it may or may not make good sour milk, depending on the
bacteria working in it.
MILK FOR INFANTS
[Illustration]
Comparing cow’s milk with mother’s milk, it will be seen that the latter
contains less protein, about the same percentage of fat and more
carbohydrates than the former. A comparison may be made from the
following table of average composition in round figures:
──────────────┬───────┬───────┬───────┬───────┬───────┬───────┬───────
│ │ │ │ │ │ │ Fuel
│ Water │ Total │Protein│ Fat │ Milk- │Mineral│ value
│ │solids │ │ │ sugar │matters│per lb.
──────────────┼───────┼───────┼───────┼───────┼───────┼───────┼───────
│ Per │ Per │ Per │ Per │ Per │ Per │Calories
│ cent │ cent │ cent │ cent │ cent │ cent │
──────────────┼───────┼───────┼───────┼───────┼───────┼───────┼───────
Mother’s Milk │ 87 │ 13 │ 2 │ 4 │ 6.5 │ 0.5 │ 316
──────────────┼───────┼───────┼───────┼───────┼───────┼───────┼───────
Cow’s Milk │ 87 │ 13 │ 3.25 │ 4 │ 5 │ 0.75 │ 312
──────────────┴───────┴───────┴───────┴───────┴───────┴───────┴───────
=Modifying Milk.=—Undiluted cow’s milk is too rich in protein and in
salts for infants and, when fed without modification, must be diluted
with an equal amount of water during the first two or three months. Such
dilution, however, also reduces the percentage of fat, which should
remain the same, and of carbohydrates, which should be increased. In
order to modify or “humanize” cow’s milk so as to make its composition
nearly the same as that of mother’s milk, simple dilution with water is
therefore not sufficient.
There are, however, various other methods which may be used to
advantage. For instance, top-milk from a bottle of fresh milk which has
stood 4 or 6 hours in ice water will contain 6 to 8% of fat. By diluting
this with an equal part of water, the percentage of protein, fat and
mineral matter will be about right, and sugar, either cane-sugar or
milk-sugar, may be added to supply the carbohydrates. Or carefully
prepared sweet whey containing milk-sugar, or barley water, may be added
to the thin cream in place of some of the pure water.
The following recipes have been used with good results:
Mrs. Pospyhala’s Recipe
=Infant Food.=—Warm 1½ quarts of milk to blood heat. Remove from
fire and add one Junket Tablet dissolved in a spoonful of cold
water. Let the milk set until it forms a solid mass, then stir
it up in order to break the curd. Place it back on the fire and
stir until quite smooth, not allowing it to get any warmer than
blood heat. It is then ready to strain through two thicknesses
of cheese-cloth and care must be taken to squeeze well so as to
obtain as much of the whey as possible, which is very important.
Add one tablespoonful of sugar to sweeten. Pour into nursing
bottles, the amount being according to the age of the baby. A
sufficient number of bottles are prepared for 24 hours’ feeding.
Care should be taken to keep the milk in a cool place as it will
sour the same as fresh milk. Every time the baby is fed the milk
must be warmed by placing the bottle in a pan of water and
heating to the right temperature.
_Mrs. Rorer’s Recipe_
Where cow’s milk, even when diluted, or partly modified as in
the home fashion, disagrees with the infant, this mixture may be
used with good results: heat two quarts of milk to 100° F. Add
two Junket Tablets dissolved in a tablespoonful of cold water.
When the milk is congealed and perfectly solid draw through it
backward and forward an ordinary four-tined silver fork; this
will separate the curd. Strain through two thicknesses of
cheese-cloth, saving the whey as this is the part you are to
use; add a pint of water, a half ounce of sugar of milk, three
ounces of cream and four ounces of the white of egg. The whites
may be dropped into a quart fruit jar, a pint of the whey added,
the top screwed on and the jar thoroughly shaken until the
whites are well mixed with the whey; then add them to the
remaining quantity and stand at once in a very cold place. This
will be given in quantities from two to three ounces in an
ordinary nursing bottle.
_RECIPES_
_of the Nathan Straus Laboratories_
Formula by Dr. A. R. Green for 1st to 4th week:—
¾ ounces of 16% Cream
3 ounces of Full Milk
19 ounces of Water
1½ ounces Milk Sugar
This mixture fills 8 bottles—each to contain 3 ounces. Feed 2½ hours
apart.
Formula by Prof. A. Jacobi for 3d to 7th month:—
18 ounces of Full Milk
18 ounces of Barley Water
1 ounces of Cane Sugar
20 grains of Table Salt (less than ¼ teaspoonful)
This mixture fills 6 bottles—each to contain 6 ounces. Feed 3 hours
apart.
Formula by Prof. R. G. Freeman for 1st to 3d month:—
1½ ounces of 16% Cream
3 ounces of Full Milk
13 ounces of Water
½ ounce Lime Water
1 ounce Milk-Sugar
This mixture fills 6 bottles—each to contain 3 ounces. Feed 3 hours
apart.
Formula by Dr. A. F. Hess for 7th to 9th month:—
22½ ounces of Full Milk
7½ ounces of Oat or Barley Water
1½ ounces of Cane Sugar
30 grains of Table Salt (about ¼ teaspoonful)
This mixture fills 5 bottles—each to contain 6 ounces. Feed 3½ hours
apart.
Formula by Prof. R. G. Freeman for 2d to 6th month:—
18 ounces of Full Milk
16½ ounces of Water
1½ ounces of Limewater
1½ ounces of Milk Sugar
This mixture fills 6 bottles—each to contain 6 ounces. Feed 3 hours
apart.
After 9th month:—
Full pasteurized milk, 8 ounces every 4 hours.
When the modified milk can be obtained from a dairy laboratory where it
is prepared with scientific care and accuracy, it is better to use it
than to depend on home-made preparations, and in many cases a doctor’s
prescription may be necessary. Even if the modified cow’s milk is
prepared so as to contain apparently the same proportion of the various
groups of nutrients as mother’s milk, there may still be some essential
difference. For instance, the protein in human milk consists mainly of
albumin, while that of cow’s milk is mostly casein. It is often a
question whether the individual baby can digest the casein without
trouble. A trifle of rennet ferment,—a fraction of a Junket
Tablet,—added to the modified cow’s milk just before feeding may be
beneficial to overcome that defect. A little limewater also is healthful
as it neutralizes any acid that may develop in the mixture. For the
particular needs of the individual baby, a competent doctor should be
asked to prescribe.
MILK FOR GROWING CHILDREN
[Illustration]
When the child is big enough to thrive on undiluted, unmodified cow’s
milk, it should not only be allowed, but urged, to continue on a diet in
which this, the best of all foods, is the most essential part. An
excellent form in which to feed milk to the growing child is junket.
Eaten slowly with a spoon as a pudding, it is exposed to the action of
digestion much better than milk swallowed by the glassful in a hurry and
even if it is cold there is no danger of defective rennet action in the
stomach because such action has already taken place.
Doctors still disagree as to the desirability of pasteurizing milk for
young children (see “Pasteurization,” Chapter I), some holding that the
digestibility is affected by the process. The truth is probably that
strong pasteurization at a temperature above 157° and holding the heated
milk unnecessarily long at such high temperature do change the
properties of the milk so as to make it harder to digest, but that the
main difficulty is in the change of diet from raw to pasteurized milk or
vice versa. Let the child get used to the change by making it gradual,
diminishing the amount of one and increasing the amount of the other
from day to day in a week, until the change is completed, and there will
usually be little if any trouble. The secretions of digestive ferments
in the stomach soon adapt themselves to the change in the food. The same
holds good in case of other changes, as, for instance, from whole milk
to more or less fatless milk, with additions of cereals or other partial
substitutes;—it is always advisable to make any change in the child’s
diet gradual.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHAPTER V
MILK COOKERY
Milk should also be used a great deal more than it is by grown persons,
not only as a drink but in the daily cookery. In some homes milk in some
form is a part of every menu and the meals are more delicious,
attractive and nourishing than the ordinary milkless diet, and are also
less expensive, as the milk takes the place of part of the meat. Dr.
Graham Tusk of Cornell University, who represented the United States on
the Interallied Council of Alimentation, says:
“No family of five should spend any money for meat until three
quarts of milk have been purchased, and this should be done even
though the price of milk should go to twenty cents a quart.
Absolutely nothing in the food line will keep children so
healthy as their daily supply of milk.”
In cooking with milk it is well to remember:
1. That, although milk is a liquid, it contains a large amount of solid
food and of exceedingly nourishing, palatable and easily digestible
food, much more than many vegetables or fruits. While milk has 13% of
solid matter, water-melon has only 2%, turnips 4%, beets 12%, etc. When
substituting milk for water, you add _nourishment_ to the food and it is
well to keep in mind the ingredients,—the amount of protein, fat, etc.,
added in the form of milk, which may take the place of other similar
ingredients in the combination.
2. That if milk is even but slightly sour, or if some other acid is
added to it,—in the form of fruit, for instance,—it is apt to curdle by
scalding or boiling.
The limits of a single chapter do not allow many recipes to be given,
but a few are furnished under each of the several kinds of milk dishes,
and a clever domestic science pupil or the ordinary good housekeeper and
cook can easily add to these recipes indefinitely, by following out the
simple suggestions offered.
All measurements are level.
SOUPS
=Cream Soups.=—So-called cream soups may be made with or without the
addition of meat stock. For example:
=Asparagus Soup=
3 cups veal or chicken broth
1 can asparagus
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1 qt. scalded milk
Salt and pepper
Reserve tips of asparagus. Add stalks to cold stock, boil fifteen
minutes, rub through sieve, thicken with butter and flour cooked
together, add milk, tips, salt and pepper. If fresh asparagus is used,
cut one bunch in small pieces, boil in as little water as will cover,
remove tough bits of stalk, add two cups stock and proceed as above.
=Cream of Celery Soup=
3 cups veal or chicken broth
3 cups celery cut in inch pieces
4 cups milk
Yolks 2 eggs
½ cup cream
Salt and pepper
Boil celery in broth till tender. Rub through sieve, add milk, bring to
the boiling point and add egg yolks beaten and diluted with cream.
=Spinach Soup=
4 cups broth
2 qts. spinach
3 cups boiling water
2 cups milk
¼ cup butter
½ cup flour
Salt and pepper
Wash the spinach and cook thirty minutes in boiling water to which ⅛
teaspoon soda has been added. Drain and chop fine. Add stock and butter
and flour cooked together, milk and seasoning.
Cauliflower, mushrooms, lettuce, string beans, onions and other
vegetables may be used for soups in the same way. _In all of these
recipes milk may be substituted for the stock._ The soups will be more
nourishing, many like them better, and they are more easily prepared.
If canned vegetables are used they may be added to the thickened milk,
which should be made in the proportions of one quart of milk to two
tablespoons butter or substitute and two tablespoons flour. One can of
beans, peas, asparagus, or corn, may be added to three pints of
thickened milk.
If fresh vegetables are used, they should be boiled in as little water
as possible and this water added with the vegetables to the hot,
thickened milk. The addition of one-half to one cup of cream to these
soups improves their taste but is not necessary. If the cream is whipped
and added just before serving, the appearance is also much improved. The
vegetables may be pressed through a sieve or not, as preferred. If the
soup is to be served in cups it is better to do this or chop the
vegetables very fine, but if the soup is to be served in soup plates it
looks attractive and is more substantial if the vegetables are cut in
inch pieces and left in the soup.
All cooks are familiar with _cornlet soup_, _tomato_ _bisque_, and
_oyster_ and _clam stews_, the foundation of which is also milk. Plenty
of good recipes for them can be found in any standard cook book.
=Cereal Cream Soups.=—There is another class of soups used much in
Europe but, unfortunately, little known here. They are very nourishing,
easy of preparation, and delicious.
A few recipes will suffice to introduce the housewife to this class of
soups and she can then easily add to the varieties herself. Her family
will enjoy the new dishes for their good taste and their novelty.
Croutons, crackers, zwieback, or toast may be served with any of them.
They should always be prepared in a double boiler.
=Rice Soup=
1 qt. milk
⅓ cup rice
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon sugar
Heat the milk in a double boiler, add the rice and cook two hours. Add
sugar and butter. Sprinkle cinnamon on each plate of soup when serving.
=Sago Soup=
1 qt. milk
4 tablespoons sago
1 tablespoon butter
1 egg yolk
2 tablespoons sugar
Heat the milk in a double boiler, add sago and cook one-half hour. Care
must be taken to stir the mixture often when the sago is first added or
it will lump. Add butter and egg yolk beaten with sugar.
=Oatmeal Soup=
1 cup oat flakes
1 pint boiling water
2 tablespoons sugar
1 pint milk
1 tablespoon butter
Add oat flakes to water and boil one-half hour. Add milk and boil
one-half hour, add sugar and butter.
=Farina or Cream of Wheat Soup=
3 pints milk
½ cup farina or cream of wheat
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon sugar
Scald milk and add cereal slowly. Cook one hour and add butter and sugar
and a sprinkling of nutmeg.
=Milk Chowders=
Chowders are also a very acceptable way of serving milk. For rich
chowders the proportions used are: Two cups of milk or of milk and
water, 1 cup of potatoes cut into small pieces and 1 pound of fish. For
flavoring add an onion fried in two tablespoons of fat tried out from
salt pork. While these proportions make a rich dish, it is possible to
reduce the amount of fish greatly, to leave it out entirely, to use
small portions of left-over fish or some salt codfish which has been
freshened, or to substitute corn for it. Such dishes are palatable and
of reasonably high nutritive value, providing the greater part of the
liquid used is milk.
Similar, but less rich and thick, is:
=Milk Stew=
1 qt. of milk
1 cupful raw potatoes cut into small pieces
2 tablespoonfuls of butter or bacon fat
1 cupful of codfish cut into small pieces or just enough to flavor the
stew
Soak the fish in lukewarm water until it is soft and the salt removed.
Cook the potatoes in water until tender, drain them, add the milk and
codfish, and bring to the boiling point; add the butter and salt to
taste.
In place of the codfish, fresh fish, clams, oysters, or a little chipped
beef may be used. Or the fish may be omitted and the soup made savory
and palatable by adding a few drops of onion juice, or cheese or a
vegetable cut into small pieces and cooked thoroughly.
MILK CEREALS
Most cereals are better cooked in milk than in water and those not
familiar with this method have no idea of the many good dishes which
they can thus easily provide for their families. Cereals so prepared
make an especially good wholesome breakfast or supper for school
children and the writer has never seen an adult, who, on a cold night,
did not enjoy a dish of rice, or corn meal, boiled in milk and served
with cream and sugar for supper. Milk cereals must always be cooked in a
double boiler and the milk must be hot when the cereal is added.
Rice 1 cup to 3 cups milk, boil 2 hours
Cornmeal 1 cup to 4 cups milk, boil 1 to 2 hours
Fine Hominy 1 cup to 4 cups milk, boil 1 hour
Cream of Wheat 1 cup to 4 cups milk, boil 1 hour
Farina 1 cup to 4 cups milk, boil 1 hour
=Cream of Wheat or Farina Pudding= is also delicious. It is prepared in
the same way, but ¾ cup of cereal only is added to 1 quart hot milk.
Just before serving, a teaspoonful of vanilla is added, and two beaten
eggs are folded in. It is eaten with cream, or milk, and sugar, or with
maple syrup.
LUNCHEON AND SUPPER DISHES
Dishes prepared principally of milk, with the addition of either eggs,
cheese, meat, or vegetables are particularly adapted for luncheon or
supper use. Here again a few standard recipes are given which can be
varied to make any desired number of good, wholesome and delicious
dishes.
=Creamed Dishes.=—The same sauce may be used to cream _cold chicken_,
_lamb_, _veal_, _chipped beef_, and cold boiled or baked _fish_, canned
_salmon_, _lobster_ or _shrimps_, according to the following recipe:
=Creamed Chicken=
2 cups cold cooked chicken cut into dice
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1½ cups milk
Salt and pepper
Melt butter and add the flour and milk. Bring to the boiling point and
add diced chicken. Season with salt and pepper.
Many grate a small onion into the sauce before adding the chicken. The
writer does not favor indiscriminate use of onion as it tends to make
all dishes taste alike. It seems better to use sometimes a little celery
or celery salt, sometimes an onion, and again frequently no flavor but
the chicken or meat or fish. One’s cooking is thus more distinctive and
varied.
If the creamed mixture is turned into a baking dish, covered with
buttered bread or cracker crumbs and browned in the oven, the result is
even more pleasing.
Such a sauce flavored with cheese makes a good and very nutritious gravy
to pour over cauliflower and cabbage or to serve with boiled rice or
hominy or poured over toast.
CREAMED VEGETABLES
In creaming vegetables the proportion is usually 1 cup of sauce to 2
cups of vegetables. _Potatoes_, _asparagus_, _cauliflower_, _boiled
onions_, _beans_, and _carrots_, _beets_ or _peas_ are all delicious
served in this way.
=Eggs and Asparagus=
Cream asparagus. Arrange in a baking dish, alternate layers of the
asparagus and slices of hard boiled eggs. Cover with buttered crumbs and
bake till crumbs are a delicate brown.
=Souffles.=—Souffles are always delightful, and while many consider them
difficult to make they are really very simple and if made correctly are
always to be depended upon. They should, however, be eaten at once when
baked.
_Salmon_, _chicken_, _lamb_, _veal_, _ham_ and _cheese_, and also many
vegetables such as _asparagus_, _cauliflower_ and _peas_ may be prepared
in this way. Elaborate recipes are often given, but the following is
entirely sufficient and always satisfactory:
2 cups chopped meat or vegetables cut fine
2 cups thick white sauce
Yolks of 2 eggs
Whites of 2 eggs
To the meat or vegetables add white sauce (2 tablespoons butter and 3
tablespoons flour to 1 cup milk) and beaten yolks. Cool and add whites
beaten stiff. Bake 30 minutes in moderate oven. This makes a dish large
enough to serve four or five persons.
A similar dish, Cheese Fondu, is also good, and can stand longer than a
souffle before serving.
=Cheese Fondu=
2 cups milk
2 cups minced cheese
1 cup bread crumbs
2 eggs beaten
Bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes.
Variations of this dish are made by substituting one cup minced ham for
one cup of the cheese, or by using two cups of ham and omitting the
cheese altogether.
MILK TOAST
A very good way to serve milk toast is to toast bread thoroughly and to
pour hot milk over it at the time of serving. In serving milk toast in
this way all the dishes should be kept very hot. A heavy earthenware
pitcher may be used for serving the hot milk, as it retains heat for a
long time.
EGGS POACHED IN MILK
Eggs are much better poached in milk than in water. If served on toast
the hot milk may be poured on the egg if a soft toast is desired. If
not, dip the eggs out of the milk with a perforated spoon and lay on the
toast in the usual way, adding salt and butter.
CHEESE DISHES AS MEAT SUBSTITUTES
Meat is wholesome and relished by most persons, yet it is not essential
to a well-balanced meal, and there are many housekeepers who, for one
reason or another, are interested in lessening the amount of meat which
they provide or to substitute some other foods for it.
Cheese naturally suggests itself as a substitute for meat, since it is
rich in the same kinds of nutrients which meat supplies, is a staple
food with which everyone is familiar, and is one which can be used in a
great variety of ways. In substituting cheese for meat, pains should be
taken to serve dishes which are relished by members of the family. A
number of recipes for dishes which are made with cheese follow:
=Cheese Soup=
1 qt. milk
1 onion grated
1 blade mace
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
½ c. grated cheese
2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon white pepper
Scald milk, onion, mace and pepper pod. Melt butter in saucepan, blend
flour with melted butter. Strain milk and seasonings and add gradually
to flour mixture, stirring all the time. Return to double boiler to
cook. When creamy, add the cheese, salt and pepper, stirring until
cheese is melted. Then pour over well-beaten egg yolks, stirring all the
time. Whip until frothing and serve.
=Delmonico Potatoes=
Arrange creamed potatoes and grated cheese in alternate layers. Cover
with buttered crumbs and bake till crumbs are brown.
=Stuffed Potatoes with Cheese=
Split hot baked potatoes lengthwise and remove contents without injuring
skin of potato. Put potato through ricer or mash, add salt and pepper to
taste and enough hot milk to make of proper consistency. Beat until
light, refill the skin, piling up lightly. Sprinkle thickly with grated
cheese and reheat in oven until cheese is melted and a delicate brown.
=Macaroni with Cheese=
1 cup macaroni
2 qts. boiling salted water
2 cups white sauce
1 cup grated cheese
1 cup buttered bread or cracker crumbs
Break macaroni into one-inch pieces. Cook in boiling water until tender.
(If macaroni is put in a wire basket in kettle, it will not stick to the
kettle.) Drain and run cold water through it.
Make sauce:
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups milk
Add cheese and macaroni. Cover with crumbs and bake until crumbs are
brown.
=Rice Baked with Cheese=
1 cup rice
2 qts. boiling salted water
½ lb. grated cheese
Milk
Buttered crumbs (bread or cracker)
Add rice to boiling water. When tender drain, cover bottom of buttered
baking dish, sprinkle with grated cheese and a little paprika. Add
alternate layers of rice and cheese until dish is full. Add milk nearly
to fill dish. Cover with crumbs and bake until milk is absorbed and
crumbs are brown.
=Cheese Souffle with Bread Crumbs=
1 cup scalded milk
1 cup soft, stale bread crumbs
¼ lb. mild cheese, cut in small pieces
1 tablespoon butter
¼ teaspoon salt
2 egg yolks
2 egg whites
Mix milk, bread crumbs, cheese, melted butter and salt. Add yolks of
eggs beaten until lemon colored. Cut and fold in whites of eggs beaten
until stiff. Pour into a buttered baking dish and bake twenty minutes in
a moderate oven.
=Cheese Souffle=
2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
½ cup scalded milk
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
¼ cup grated cheese
Yolks of 3 eggs
Whites of 3 eggs
Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and mix well; add scalded
milk gradually and seasonings; cook two minutes. Remove pan to back of
stove and add cheese and well-beaten yolks of eggs. Set pan where
mixture will cool. When cold, add the whites of eggs beaten until stiff
and dry. Turn into a buttered baking dish and bake twenty minutes in a
slow oven. Serve the moment it comes from the oven.
=English Monkey=
1 cup bread crumbs
2 cups milk
1 cup grated cheese
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon white pepper or paprika
1 egg
1 tablespoon melted butter
Scald milk in double boiler and add bread crumbs to it. Then add grated
cheese, melted butter and seasonings. Cook in double boiler until cheese
is melted; add the slightly-beaten egg gradually. Cook five minutes and
serve on dry toast.
=Cheese Omelette No. 1=
4 eggs
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper
4 tablespoons hot water
1 tablespoons butter
1 cup grated cheese
Beat yolks of eggs thoroughly; add salt, pepper and hot water. Beat
whites till stiff and dry; add cheese and fold into first mixture. Melt
butter in pan, turn in mixture and cook slowly. When well raised and a
delicate brown underneath, place pan in hot oven to cook top. Fold and
turn on hot platter.
=Cheese Omelette No. 2=
Make as above, omitting cheese. Make two cups of hot, white sauce; add 1
cup grated cheese, melt and pour around the omelette.
=Baked Eggs with Cheese=
4 eggs
1 cup grated cheese
1 cup soft bread crumbs
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
2 cups white sauce
Break the eggs into a buttered baking dish and cook in hot oven until
they begin to turn white around the edges. Then cover eggs with the
white sauce and over this put the mixture of crumbs, cheese and
seasonings. Brown in very hot oven, so eggs will not be overcooked by
time cheese is brown. If preferred, or for variety, the cheese may be
added to the white sauce and only the seasoned crumbs put on the top.
=Boston Roast=
1 can kidney beans or same amount of cooked beans
Salt
½ lb. grated cheese
Bread crumbs
Mash beans or put them through a meat grinder. Add the cheese and
sufficient bread crumbs to make the mixture stiff enough to be formed
into a roll. Place in buttered baking pan and bake in moderate oven.
Baste frequently with one-half cup hot water, in which one tablespoon
butter is melted. Serve the roast with tomato sauce. If desired, a few
drops of onion juice or a little finely chopped onion may be added to
flavor this dish.
=Camouflaged Cabbage=
Remove the heart from a small cabbage, cut or chop the remainder into
half inch pieces, boil in salted water exactly twenty minutes and drain.
For one pint of this cooked cabbage make a sauce of:
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
½ cup milk
½ cup cheese
When thoroughly blended add the cabbage; cover with buttered crumbs and
bake twenty minutes. The result is a good dish for supper or luncheon
and it is well named.
CHEESE SALADS
=Cheese and Pimento Salad=
Stuff canned pimentos with cream cheese, cut into slices, place on
lettuce leaves and serve with mayonnaise dressing.
=Cheese and Celery Salad=
Select celery stalks with deep grooves in them; wash and dry on clean
towel. Mix a small cream cheese with a bit of salt, and ¼ cup finely
chopped nuts (pecans are best). Fill grooves in celery stalk with the
cheese mixture and chill. When ready to serve cut stalks into small
pieces with sharp knife. Serve on lettuce leaves with French dressing.
For a pleasant addition to fruit salad, fill tender celery stalks with
roquefort cheese, and lay one or two on each plate of salad.
=Pepper and Cheese Salad=
Remove top and seeds from a sweet green pepper. Scald it with boiling
water, letting it stand in water about ten minutes. Mix soft cream
cheese with chopped nuts, or with tiny cubes of cooked beets and fill
pepper with this mixture; chill well, cut in thin slices with sharp
knife and serve on bed of head lettuce with French dressing.
Apples can also be used (with cheese and nuts) by removing core without
breaking the apple.
COTTAGE CHEESE
(See also under the chapter on Cheese)
All that has been said of cheese as a valuable food and as a substitute
for meat, applies equally to cottage cheese and it is so easily
prepared, inexpensive and generally relished that it should be used much
more freely than it is.
The following recipes are only a few of the many that might be given,
but the careful cook should evolve other combinations equally
attractive.
=Cottage Cheese by Government Method=
(From Food Administration Bulletin)
Unit, 1 gallon. For lesser amounts, measurements to be divided
accordingly.
Take 1 gallon of sweet skim milk; add ¾ cup of clean, sour milk and stir
as it is put in. Raise the temperature in hot water to 75 degrees
Fahrenheit, using a dairy thermometer. Remove from heat and place where
it is to remain until set. Add ⅛ of a junket tablet thoroughly dissolved
in a tablespoon of cold water; stir while adding. Cover with cloth and
leave for 12 to 16 hours in even temperature, about 75 degrees
Fahrenheit. At end of this period there should be a slight whey on the
top and when poured out the curd should cleave sharply. Drain through
cotton cloth, not cheese-cloth. When whey has been drained out, work in
1 or 2 teaspoons of salt to the cheese, according to taste; 1½ to 2
pounds of cheese should be obtained from a gallon of milk.
For table use it is advisable to work in 1 or 2 tablespoons of cream to
the pound. For use in cooking, this is not necessary.
One may also make cottage cheese of freshly soured milk by simply
heating it in a double boiler till whey forms, letting it stand an hour
and then turning it into a cheese-cloth bag to drain. To the dry curd
formed add sweet or sour cream and salt to taste. When made in this way
care must be taken that the milk is freshly soured—if it is old it will
have a bitter taste and the cheese will not be good.
=Cottage Cheese Sandwiches=
Thin slices of rye, brown or white bread, buttered, with fillings of
cottage cheese in combination with jelly, marmalade, pimentoes, lettuce
or mayonnaise are all good.
=Cottage Cheese Club Sandwiches=
Toast slices of bread, cut diamond shape and spread with butter and
cottage cheese or cottage cheese alone and put together with any one of
the following combinations:
Tomato, lettuce and mayonnaise dressing.
Thin slices of ham spread with mustard and lettuce.
Sliced, tart apple, chopped nuts and drops of French dressing.
Sliced orange and mayonnaise.
Sliced Spanish onion, a hot fried egg sprinkled with Worcestershire
sauce.
Thin slices of tomato, bacon, chicken, lettuce and mayonnaise dressing.
=Cottage Cheese Salad Dressing=
½ cup cottage cheese
1 tablespoon vinegar
½ teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
1 cup heavy cream (either sweet or sour) whipped stiff.
Mix in order given. A chopped hard boiled egg improves it.
A similar salad dressing, although containing no cottage cheese, may be
given here also.
=Sour Cream Salad Dressing=
1 cup sour cream—whipped
1 tablespoon vinegar
1 tablespoon olive oil
¼ teaspoon salt
(1 teaspoon sugar, if desired)
2 hard boiled egg yolks finely chopped
Mix in order given.
Either of these is particularly good with green vegetables.
For a fruit salad the eggs should be omitted and double the amount of
sugar used.
=Cottage Cheese Salad=
Lettuce, sliced cucumber or green, sweet peppers, cottage cheese formed
in small balls or slices, mayonnaise or French dressing.
=Cottage Cheese Pie=
1 cup cottage cheese
⅔ cup sugar
⅔ cup milk
2 egg yolks, beaten
1 tablespoon melted butter
Salt
¼ teaspoon vanilla
Mix the ingredients in the order given. Bake the pie in one crust. Cool
it slightly and cover it with meringue made by adding 2 tablespoons of
sugar and ½ teaspoon of vanilla to the beaten white of 2 eggs and brown
it in a slow oven.
=Devonshire Dainty=
Serve on individual plates ½ cup cottage cheese to which has been added
2 tablespoonfuls whipped cream (sweet or sour). Over this pour ½ cup
currant jam.
Pass saltines or other dry, unsweetened crackers.
MILK BREADS AND BISCUITS
=Parker House Rolls=
2 cups scalded milk (skim)
3 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon salt
1 yeast cake dissolved in ¼ cup lukewarm water
Dissolve yeast in water, melt butter, combine all ingredients except
flour. Add 3 cups flour gradually, beating vigorously. Let rise till
light; cut down and knead in 2½ cups flour. Cover and allow to rise
until three times original bulk. Roll ½ inch thick. Cut, spread half
with butter and fold over. Put in buttered tins to rise, placing 1 inch
apart. Bake when light in a hot oven 15 to 20 minutes.
=Popovers=
1 cup flour
¼ teaspoon salt
2 eggs
½ teaspoon melted butter
1 cup milk
Beat eggs thoroughly. Add gradually, while beating, the milk and flour,
to which salt has been added. Add butter and beat two minutes with Dover
egg beater. Put a half teaspoon of butter in hissing hot iron gem pans.
Fill half with batter and bake thirty minutes in a hot oven. Serve
immediately.
=Boston Nut Bread=
½ cup molasses
1 teaspoon soda
2 cups sour milk
2 cups graham flour
1 teaspoon salt
½ cup sugar
1 cup chopped nuts
1½ cups white flour
Mix and sift all the dry ingredients. Add molasses to the milk and
combine this gradually with the dry materials. Add the nuts. Half fill
baking powder cans, with oiled cover, and let stand one-half hour. Bake
three-quarters of an hour in moderate oven.
=Sour Milk Biscuit=
1 qt. flour
1 teaspoon soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons butter
Sour milk to moisten (about 1½ cups)
Sift dry ingredients together, cut in butter with knife, add milk to
make a stiff dough. Roll out thin and bake in hot oven. Serve with honey
or maple syrup.
=Gingerbread=
4 tablespoons butter
½ cup sugar
1 egg
½ cup molasses
2 teaspoons cocoa
½ cup sour milk
1¾ cups flour
¾ teaspoon soda
1 teaspoon ginger
1 teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon allspice
Sift flour and spices, salt and soda together. Mix other ingredients in
the order given and combine mixtures. Bake in moderate oven 30 minutes.
=Sour Milk Waffles=
1 egg
1 cup sour milk
1 cup flour
1 tablespoon butter
1 teaspoon soda
½ teaspoon salt
Beat egg thoroughly, add sour milk, flour and salt. Dissolve soda in ½
tablespoon cold water. Add to mixture. Beat thoroughly. Cook on oiled,
hot waffle iron and serve hot with maple syrup.
=Sweet Milk Waffles=
2 cups flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1¼ cups milk
Yolks 2 eggs
Whites 2 eggs
2 tablespoons butter
Mix and sift dry ingredients, add milk, beaten yolks, butter and egg
whites beaten stiff.
=Buttermilk Griddle Cakes=
2 cups buttermilk
2 cups flour
1 teaspoon soda
1 egg beaten
Mix in order given.
=Sweet Milk Griddle Cakes=
1 egg beaten
2 cups milk
3 cups flour sifted with
3 teaspoons baking powder and
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons melted butter
Mix in order given.
=Boston Brown Bread=
1 cup whole wheat flour
2 cups graham flour
1 teaspoon soda
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups sour milk
½ cup molasses
Mix dry ingredients thoroughly. Mix the sour milk and molasses. Stir in
dry ingredients, beating thoroughly. Turn into well buttered pound
baking powder cans. Cover tightly and steam three hours. Take from can
and slice, ½ cup raisins or nuts can be added to the dough mixture, if
desired.
DESSERTS
For desserts the number of custards, creams and puddings made with milk
is legion, and they are so well known and can be so easily varied that
only a few stock recipes need be given.
=Boiled Custard=
2 cups scalded milk
Yolks 2 eggs
¼ cup sugar
⅛ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon vanilla
Beat eggs slightly, add sugar and salt; stir constantly while adding
gradually hot milk. Cook in double boiler, continue stirring until
mixture thickens and a coating is formed on the spoon; strain
immediately, chill and flavor. If cooked too long the custard will
curdle. Should this happen, by using a Dover egg beater it may be
restored to a smooth consistency, but custard will not be as thick. Eggs
should be beaten slightly for custard that it may be of smooth, thick
consistency. To prevent scum from forming, cover with a perforated tin
or sprinkle with granulated sugar when cooling.
=Blanc Mange or Cornstarch Pudding=
1 qt. milk
½ cup cornstarch
Pinch of salt
3 eggs
½ cup sugar
Heat milk to boiling, add cornstarch dissolved in a little cold milk and
a pinch of salt. Boil five minutes, add yolks of eggs beaten with sugar.
Boil 2 minutes longer, remove from fire and beat in the whipped whites
of eggs. Flavor with vanilla or lemon. Serve cold with cream and sugar
or canned peaches or pears.
This is used also as a filling for cream pie, using the beaten whites of
eggs, sweetened for a meringue and browning slightly in oven. Bake the
crust before filling with the cream.
=Baked Custard=
4 cups scalded milk
4 eggs
½ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
Few gratings nutmeg
Beat eggs slightly, add sugar and salt, pour on slowly scalded milk,
strain in buttered mold, set in pan of hot water. Sprinkle with nutmeg
and bake in slow oven until firm, which may be readily determined by
running a silver knife through custard. If knife comes out clean,
custard is done. During baking care must be taken that water surrounding
mold does not reach boiling point or custard will whey. Always bear in
mind that eggs and milk combination must be cooked at a low temperature.
For cup custards allow three eggs to four cups milk; for large molded
custard four or five eggs; if fewer eggs are used, custard is liable to
crack when turned on a serving dish.
=Baked Apple, Southern Style=
[Illustration]
6 choice apples
½ cup sugar
1 qt. milk
Salt
4 eggs
⅔ cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
Pare and core apples that are not too sour to hold their shape when
baked. Put in a pudding dish, sprinkle the half cupful of sugar over and
around them, also filling place where the core was taken out. Put in
oven and bake. Remove from oven and pour around them the milk mixture
made thus: Beat the eggs well, add sugar and beat again, add milk, salt
and vanilla. Bake slowly until a knife-blade will come out clean after
insertion in the custard. Serve hot or cold, with or without whipped
cream. This is an especially good dessert for children.
=Coffee Custard=
2 cups milk
1 cup strong coffee
3 eggs
¼ cup sugar
⅛ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon vanilla
Beat eggs slightly; add sugar, salt, vanilla, milk and coffee. Strain
into buttered individual molds, set in pan of hot water and bake until
firm.
=Caramel Custard=
4 cups scalded milk
5 eggs
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla
½ cup sugar
Put sugar in omelette pan, stirring constantly over hot part of range
until melted to a syrup of light brown color. Add gradually to milk,
being careful that milk does not bubble up and go over, as is liable on
account of high temperature of sugar. As soon as sugar is melted in
milk, add mixture gradually to eggs slightly beaten, add salt and
flavoring, then strain in buttered mold. Bake as custard. Chill and
serve with caramel sauce.
=Rice Pudding=
1 qt. milk
⅓ cup rice
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg, or cinnamon, or grated rind of ¼ of a lemon
Wash the rice thoroughly, mix the ingredients and bake three hours or
more in a very slow oven, stirring occasionally at first.
=Tapioca Custard=
Add to the list of ingredients for boiled custard ¼ cup of pearl
tapioca. Soak the tapioca in water for an hour or two, drain it, and
cook in the milk until it is transparent. Proceed as for boiled custard.
GENERAL RECIPE FOR CEREAL-MILK PUDDINGS
Bread and rice puddings, made with milk and eggs, are familiar to all
cooks. Made without eggs, the following will be found suggestive:
For a quart of milk allow ⅓ of a cup of any coarse cereal (rice,
cornmeal, cracked wheat, oatmeal or barley); add ⅓ of a cup of brown,
white or maple sugar, syrup, honey or molasses; ½ teaspoon salt; ⅛
teaspoon spice. The flavoring may be omitted when honey or molasses is
used.
The above recipe makes quite a large pudding. It is often convenient to
make a smaller one, and enough for a child’s dinner can be made in the
double boiler, allowing two level or one rounding tablespoon of cereal
to a cup of salted and flavored milk. Cook an hour and sweeten slightly.
These puddings, if made thin, may be poured over stewed prunes or other
cooked fruits, and are a good and economical substitute for the cream or
soft custard usually used for that purpose.
A very old recipe for a baked corn pudding has recently been given to
the author.
=Indian Meal Custard=
1 pt. sweet milk, when hot add slowly
½ cup cornmeal
Pinch salt
½ teaspoon each cinnamon and ginger
Sugar to taste
1 tablespoon molasses
Boil 5 minutes, and add
2 beaten eggs
1 pt. milk
Bake about one-half hour or till set.
=Milk and Fruit Mold[11]=
[Illustration:
Milk and fruit mold
]
3½ cups hot milk,
½ cup cold milk,
5 tablespoons granulated sugar
10 tablespoons cornstarch
2 beaten egg whites
1 teaspoon almond extract,
½ teaspoon salt
Candied cherries, cut into small pieces
Heat milk in double boiler. Mix cornstarch with cold milk, stir it into
the hot milk, add salt and sugar and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10
minutes. Remove from fire, fold in the beaten whites and add the
flavoring. Rinse mold in cold water, drain, pour in part of the cooked
mixture, add a layer of cherries and continue until mold is filled. Set
on ice to chill. May be served in tall glasses, as illustrated, or
unmolded on a flat serving platter.
=Caramel Rice[11]=
6 cups milk
1 cup rice
1¼ cups granulated sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 slightly beaten eggs
Grated rind of half an orange
Cook rice, salt, the quarter cup of sugar and milk together in a double
boiler until rice is tender. Remove from fire, add grated rind and
beaten eggs and mix well.
Put the cup of sugar in a small saucepan over the fire and stir
constantly until it is a golden brown liquid. Have a mold heating, and
when very hot pour the liquid in it, turning the mold so that all parts
are coated. Turn the rice into the mold and set it in a pan of water in
a hot oven for 20 minutes, having the mold covered the entire time.
Remove from oven, let stand until cold, unmold and serve with the
caramel sauce that is in the mold.
=Milk Cream=[11]
1½ cups hot milk
½ cup cold milk
⅜ cup granulated sugar
3 eggs
½ ounce granulated gelatine
1 teaspoon vanilla
Pinch of salt
Soak gelatine in the cold milk for 10 minutes. Heat balance of milk in a
double boiler, add salt, sugar and beaten yolks, stirring constantly.
Cook until mixture coats the spoon, remove from fire, add soaked
gelatine and stir until dissolved. Then set aside to cool and when
beginning to thicken add flavoring and mix in lightly the stiffly beaten
whites.
Rinse a mold in cold water, drain, pour in mixture and set in a cold
place until firm. Unmold and serve plain or with thin cream.
[Illustration:
Milk cream
]
=Plain Junket=
Heat a quart of milk until lukewarm, not to exceed 100° F. Remove from
fire; sweeten and flavor to taste, using vanilla or any other desired
flavor. Dissolve one Junket Tablet in cold water and stir the solution
quickly into the lukewarm milk. Pour immediately into individual serving
dishes, sherbet glasses, bowls or the like, and let stand warm until
thickened. When “set” remove to ice box or other cool place without
stirring and let stand until serving time. Serve with or without whipped
cream, a sprinkle of nutmeg, or a few strawberries on the top, etc.
[Illustration:
Plain junket
]
=Chocolate Junket=
Sweeten a quart of milk with half a cup of sugar. Melt one square of
chocolate or two tablespoonfuls of cocoa, add half a cup of the milk and
boil one minute. Remove from fire and add the remainder of the milk,
which must not be boiled, and a teaspoonful of vanilla. Probably the
mixture will be lukewarm, if not, warm until it is. Stir in dissolved
Junket Tablet, pour at once into serving dishes and leave undisturbed
until set. Chill and serve. If whipped cream sweetened and flavored with
vanilla is heaped upon the Chocolate Junket when serving, a most
attractive dessert is obtained, and Chocolate Junket frozen makes a
delicious ice cream.
=Coffee Junket=
One-half cup very strong coffee, ½ cup sugar, added to 1¾ pints of
heated milk. Dissolve. Add your Junket Tablet and finish as ordinary
Junket. Serve with cream.
An endless variety of Junkets can be made by varying flavor and color,
by adding fruit or preserves, etc., and in the sick room various
medicines or stimulants, peptone, wine, etc., may conveniently be
administered as an ingredient in the pudding.
=“Prepared Junket”=
_Prepared Junket_ in which all the ingredients are found except the milk
is on the market in the form of a powder called “Nesnah.” It is put up
in various flavors and is easily and quickly made when milk is at
disposal.
Heat 1 qt. milk lukewarm, remove from fire, add one package of the
prepared Junket and dissolve quickly and thoroughly by vigorous stirring
for ½ minute only. Pour immediately into individual serving dishes and
let stand in warm room until thoroughly set. Place in ice box until
serving time. Serve with or without plain or whipped cream.
MILK BEVERAGES
=Whey=
1 qt. fresh milk
1 Junket Tablet
1 tablespoon cold water
Heat the milk until lukewarm and add the tablet dissolved in the cold
water. Allow it to set in a warm room. Then break up the curd gently and
strain it through two thicknesses of cheese-cloth, being careful to
remove all the casein. Cool at once and serve cold, without or with
sweetening, and flavor as desired.
=Lemon Whey=
1 qt. hot milk
3 tablespoons sugar
½ cup lemon juice
Heat the milk in a double boiler and add the lemon juice. Cook without
stirring until the whey separates. Strain through cheese-cloth and add
the sugar. Serve hot or cold, garnished with small slices of lemon.
=Cinnamon and Milk=
1 qt. new milk
Stick cinnamon
Sugar
Boil milk with sufficient cinnamon to flavor as desired. Sweeten and
serve warm or cold.
=Rice Milk=
1 ounce rice
1 pint milk
1 saltspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
Soak the rice twelve hours. Add the scalded milk, salt and sugar. Stir
well and cook one hour; then rub through a fine sieve. Thin with more
hot milk and serve.
=Kumyss= (see also Chapter II)
⅙ cake Fleischmann’s yeast
1¼ tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon water
1 quart milk
Make a thin syrup of the sugar and water and cook one minute. Soften the
yeast in two tablespoons of lukewarm milk. Heat the milk until lukewarm,
add other ingredients and shake. Put in stone, sterile bottles, place in
an upright position for twelve hours, at 70° (kitchen heat); then turn
on side and leave at a temperature of 50° (lower part of ice box). Ready
for use after the first twenty-four hours; often kept several days, but
the longer it is kept the less palatable it is. It should look like
thick, foamy cream.
=Egg Milk Shake=
1 egg
1 cup milk
Sugar
Vanilla
Break the egg into a large glass and beat well. Add sugar and a couple
of drops of vanilla or a dust of nutmeg and beat again. Fill up glass
with rich milk. This makes a very nourishing drink.
=Buttermilk Shake=
1 cup buttermilk
1 egg
Sugar
Few drops lemon extract
Salt
Break egg into bowl, beat thoroughly with egg beater, add sugar,
flavoring, a tiny pinch of salt and buttermilk. Beat again till light
and foamy. Turn into glass.
=Buttermilk Lemonade=
A variation may be made from ordinary buttermilk by the addition of
lemon juice and sugar. “Buttermilk lemonade” usually requires the juice
of three lemons to one quart of buttermilk. The quantity of lemon and
sugar, however, should be varied to suit the taste of the individual.
The beverage is delightful and is especially refreshing on a hot summer
day.
One may also use the juice of two oranges and one lemon to one quart of
buttermilk, instead of the lemons alone.
Many people like the clear buttermilk slightly sweetened with a few
grains of salt added.
=Chocolate=
1½ squares chocolate
4 tablespoons sugar
Few grains salt
1 cup boiling water
3 cups milk
½ teaspoon vanilla
Scald milk. Melt chocolate in small saucepan and gradually add boiling
water. When smooth add to scalded milk, sweeten and add salt and
vanilla. Mill with Dover egg beater, and serve, putting a large teaspoon
of whipped cream on each cup.
=Cocoa=
¼ cup cocoa
¼ cup sugar
Few grains salt
1 cup water
3 cups milk
½ teaspoon vanilla
Mix cocoa and sugar, add water and stir into milk already heated in
double boiler. Cook 15 minutes, add vanilla and salt. Serve with whipped
cream. A famous cook known to the writer adds 1 teaspoon cornstarch
dissolved in 1 tablespoon cold water to the cocoa when nearly ready for
the table. It adds to the apparent richness of the beverage.
MISCELLANEOUS SUGGESTIONS
1. A tablespoonful of milk put in the pan before frying eggs will keep
them tender.
2. Covering cold chicken or other meat with buttermilk will keep it for
twenty-four hours or more, without affecting the meat except to make it
more tender.
3. Custards and ice cream kept too long in warm weather may cause
ptomaine poisoning.
4. Keep milk covered to shut out flavors from other food.
5. Milk warm from the cow should not be kept in a closed receptacle.
6. Danish cooks soak a piece of veal in skim milk overnight before
roasting it, to improve the flavor.
7. Sliced ham covered with milk and baked in a moderate oven for an hour
has delicate flavor and is always tender.
THE THERMOMETER
[Illustration:
Dairy and household thermometers
]
In the United States and Canada as well as in England _Fahrenheit’s_
thermometer is generally used according to which water freezes at 32°
and boils at 212° at ordinary air pressure, leaving 180 degrees between
the freezing and the boiling point. In some countries in Europe
Réaumur’s thermometer is used with 0° for the freezing point and 80° for
boiling. In France and for scientific work in all countries, however,
the Celsius or Centigrade system is employed for measuring heat and
cold, having 0° for freezing and 100° for boiling. As there are 180°
Fahrenheit, 80° Réaumur and 100° Centigrade between freezing and
boiling, the divisions are therefore as 9° F. to 4° R. and 5° C.
To change from degrees of F. above the freezing point to the other
systems deduct 32, divide the remainder by 9 and multiply by 4 or by 5
respectively. To change from C. to F. divide by 5, multiply by 9 and add
32, etc. As the metric system is gradually being introduced everywhere
instead of the old systems for weights and measures, so also is the
Centigrade thermometer being substituted for the others and in cookery
it may soon be used exclusively.
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES
1 pound = 16 ounces = 453.6 grams
1 ounce = 16 drams = 28.35 grams
1 kilogram = 1000 grams = 2.2 pounds
1 gram = 15.43 grains = .035 ounces
1 gallon = 4 quarts = 3.785 liters
1 quart = 2 pints =.9464 liters
1 pint = 16 fluid ounces = .4731 liters
1 fluid ounce = 8 drams = 29.57 c.c.
1 liter = 1000 cubic centimeters = 1.0567 quarts
1 mile = 5280 feet = 1.6 kilometer
1 foot = 12 inches = .3048 meter
1 kilometer = 1000 meters = .6214 mile
1 meter = 100 centimeters = 39.37 inches
1 acre = 43,560 sq. ft. = .4047 hectare
1 sq. ft. = 144 sq. inches = 9.29 sq. decimeters
1 hectare = 10,000 sq. meters = 2.471 acres
1 square meter = 100 sq. decimeters = 10.764 sq. ft.
1 bushel = 4 pecks = .3552 hectoliter
1 hectoliter = 2.8377 bushels
1 U. S. gallon = 128 ounces = 231 cb. inches
1 Imperial gallon (English and Canadian) = 160 ounces = 277 cb. in.
6 U. S. gallons = 5 Imperial gallons
1 gallon of water weighs 8.34 pounds
1 gallon of milk weighs 8.6 pounds
A 40 quart can of milk = 86 pounds
_Approximate Household Weights and Measures_
4 saltspoonfuls = 1 teaspoonful
3 flat teaspoonfuls = 1 heaping teaspoonful
1 heaping tablespoonful of granulated sugar = nearly 1 ounce
1 rounded tablespoonful of butter = 1 ounce
2 ordinary cups of granulated sugar = 1 pound
3 ordinary cups of wheat flour = 1 pound
1 pound of granulated sugar = 1 pint
4 flat teaspoonfuls of liquid = 1 flat tablespoonful = ½ fluid ounce
4 large tablespoonfuls = 1 ordinary wine glass = 2 fluid ounces
1 pint = 2 cups or glasses
1 cup or glass = 8 fluid ounces.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
END NOTES
-----
Footnote 1:
From circular No. 85 of a series of statements prepared under the
direction of the Secretary of Agriculture, covering the agricultural
situation for 1918.
Footnote 2:
_The Babcock Test_ is operated as follows: When the milk has been
thoroughly mixed and a true sample has been taken the _pipette_ is
filled to the mark by sucking the milk into it until it stands a
little above the mark on the stem, then quickly placing a dry finger
over the end of the pipette and allowing the milk to escape until it
just reaches the mark. The quantity thus measured off is 17.6 c.c. The
pipette is then emptied into the _test bottle_ by placing the point in
the neck and allowing the milk to flow slowly down the inside of the
neck, taking care not to lose any of the milk. Blow the last drops out
of the pipette into the bottle.
The _measuring glass_, holding 17.5 c.c., is filled to the mark with
_sulphuric acid_ of a specific gravity of 1.82 to 1.83 and this is
poured into the milk in the test bottle. The acid is a strong poison
and must be handled with care. Pour it slowly down along the wall of
the bottle which is held at an angle and turned slowly during the
operation.
Now give the bottle a rotary motion to thoroughly mix the milk and the
acid, shaking vigorously towards the end of the operation so as to be
sure not to leave any of the acid which is heavier than the milk at
the bottom of the bottle.
_Whirling._—The bottles are then placed in the centrifugal machine and
whirled for five minutes at the proper speed—from 600 to 1200
revolutions per minute—according to the diameter of the machine and as
stated in the directions which come with the tester. The mixture of
milk and acid is hot enough if the whirling is done at once, but if it
is allowed to cool the bottles should be placed in hot water of 150 to
170° for about 15 minutes; whirling at full speed for 4 minutes brings
all the fat to the top.
Hot water is now added until the bottle is filled almost to the scale
on the neck and the bottles are again placed in the machine and
whirled at full speed for one minute. Hot water is then again added
until the lower end of the fat column is within the scale, preferably
at the 1% or 2% mark on the neck of the bottle. Whirl once more for
one or two minutes and then read off the percentage of fat on the
scale. Each division represents 0.2% fat. The fat column is measured
from the lower line between the fat and the water to the point where
the top of the fat column touches the wall of the neck. A pair of
dividers are handy for measuring the fat column and reading off the
percentage of fat in the milk. The bottle with contents should be
warm—about 140°—when the measure is taken.
For testing skim milk and cream special forms of test bottles are
used—which are described in the circulars coming with the testers and
students who desire fuller information are referred to Farrington and
Woll’s “Testing Milk and its Products,” published by the Mendota Book
Co., Madison, Wis.
Footnote 3:
The _Acid Test_ depends upon what in the laboratory is called
“titration” and makes use of a “burette,” a long, graduated measuring
tube provided with a pinch-cock. This burette is filled with an alkali
solution of known strength, usually a “tenth normal” solution of
caustic soda. A certain amount of the milk to be tested is measured
off into a glass or a white porcelain cup. As a 17.6 c.c. pipette
belonging to the Babcock test usually is at hand, that may be used for
this purpose. A few drops of an _Indicator_ is added to the milk and
under constant stirring the soda solution is allowed to drip into it
until suddenly it turns pink. The color will quickly disappear,
however, and a few more drops of the alkali are added and stirred in
several times until a faint but distinct pink color remains for some
time. That indicates that the acid in the milk has been neutralized
and the amount of the soda solution consumed is then read off on the
scale on the burette. By dividing the number of c.c. of the soda
solution used by two, the tenths per cent of lactic acid in the milk
is found. For example, if it takes 4 c.c. of the soda solution to
neutralize 17.6 c.c. milk, the acidity is .2%. This depends upon the
fact that 1 c.c. of a tenth normal soda neutralizes .009 gram of
lactic acid and that therefore the per cent of acid in the milk is
equal to .009 multiplied by the number of c.c. of soda solution used,
divided by the number of c.c. of milk and multiplied by 100.
If 50 c.c. of milk is taken instead of 17.6 the calculation is changed
accordingly.
Footnote 4:
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 602, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.
Footnote 5:
_Butter Color_ is made of the coloring matter of “Annatto” dissolved
in a refined vegetable (salad) oil. The Annatto tree (Bixa Orelana)
grows in the tropics and the seed which has a thin coating of this
beautiful coloring matter comes mostly from the West Indian Islands,
Jamaica, Porto Rico and Guadeloupe. It is perfectly harmless and is
used by the natives to flavor and color soup and other foods much as
we use tomatoes.
Footnote 6:
The Marschall Rennet Test consists of a graduated cup (a) with a fine
hole for an outlet in the bottom. One cubic centimeter of a standard
rennet extract is diluted with water in the glass bottle (c). The cup
is filled with milk and placed on the corner of the cheese vat, the
milk being allowed to run through the fine hole in the bottom of the
cup. The moment the surface of the milk reaches the upper mark of the
graduation in the cup the diluted rennet extract is added and quickly
stirred into the milk with the spattle (d).
When the milk begins to curdle it stops running out. The sweeter the
milk is the more will run out before coagulation stops it and the mark
on the scale at which it stops indicates the degree of acidity or
ripening. The point is to have the milk alike every day and if, for
instance, the cheesemaker has found that his cheese is best if he adds
the rennet to the milk in the vat when the test shows 2½, he wants to
ripen the milk to that degree every day. So, if the test shows 3 or 4,
it indicates that the milk is not sufficiently ripened and it should
be allowed to stand warm for a longer time before it is set with
rennet.
Footnote 7:
The Acidemeter for making an Acid Test is described in Chapter I.
Footnote 8:
Rennet (see under “Ferments” in Chapter I) is prepared from the third
division of the stomach of the suckling or milk-fed calf. Fifty years
ago cheesemakers used to make their own rennet by soaking salted
calves’ stomachs in sour whey, and our grandmothers used a piece of a
dry, salted stomach to make Junket or “Curds and Whey.” About 1868,
Christian Hansen, of Copenhagen, Denmark, began the preparation of
Commercial Rennet Extract which soon supplanted the home-made rennet
in all countries wherever cheese was made. Nowadays rennet in liquid
or powder or tablet form for cheesemaking, and Junket Tablets for milk
puddings, are prepared pure and of known strength in laboratories and
handled by druggists and dealers in dairy supplies.
The fresh stomachs are saved by the farmers or butchers and are either
blown up and dried in the air protected from sunlight and rain, or
split lengthwise and spread out flat and salted on both sides.
In the laboratory the ferment is extracted by chemicals and a pure,
clear liquid extract is prepared, of uniform strength and good keeping
quality. Or the extract is condensed into a powder which again is
compressed into tablets of great strength.
The ferment acts best when the milk is lukewarm, but it will do the
work at temperatures ranging from 50°, or even lower, to 120° F.
Strongly pasteurized or sterilized milk will not curdle with rennet,
but milk pasteurized at a low temperature is not changed enough to
prevent it from making a firm curd. More rennet does not make a firmer
curd but causes the milk to curdle quicker; less rennet makes the
process slower. Diluted milk will not curdle firmly, and the failure
of milk to make a smooth coagulum of the usual consistency and in the
usual time, the temperature being right and the regular amount of a
standard rennet being used, is a never-failing proof that something is
the matter with the milk. It has been changed from its natural
condition by over-heating in pasteurization or by watering or
doctoring, or it has not been properly ripened.
Footnote 9:
W. O. Atwater, Farmers’ Bulletin No. 142.
Footnote 10:
Dr. E. V. McCollum in “Hoard’s Dairyman.”
Footnote 11:
Prepared for “The Story of Milk” by A. Louise Andrea.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Cheese Making; John W. Decker, Columbus, O.
The Milk Question; M. J. Rosenau, Houghton-Mifflin Co., Boston.
The Manufacture of Cheese of the Cheddar Type from Pasteurized Milk; J.
L. Sammis and A. T. Bruhn, Bulletin 165, Bureau of Animal Industry,
Washington, D. C.
Dairy Laboratory Guide; Charles W. Melick, D. Van Nostrand Company, New
York City.
Handbook for Farmers and Dairymen; F. W. Woll, John Wiley & Sons, New
York City.
Testing Milk and Its Products; E. H. Farrington and F. W. Woll, Mendota
Book Company, Madison, Wis.
Farmers’ Clean Milk Book; Dr. Charles E. North, John Wiley & Sons, New
York.
Ost og Osteproduktion; G. Ellbrecht, Nordisk Forlag, Copenhagen,
Denmark.
Outlines of Dairy Bacteriology; N. L. Russell, Madison, Wis.
A B C in Butter Making; J. H. Monrad, Urner-Barry Co., New York.
A B C in Cheese Making; J. H. Monrad, Urner-Barry Co., New York.
Dairy Chemistry; Henry Droop Richmond, Charles Griffin and Company,
Ltd., London.
Milk, its Nature and Composition; C. M. Aikman, Adams and Charles Black,
London.
Milk and Its Products; H. H. Wing, The Macmillan Co., New York.
Principles and Practice of Buttermaking; G. L. McKay and C. Larsen, John
Wiley & Sons, New York.
Science and Practice of Cheese Making; L. L. Van Slyke and Chas. A.
Publow, Orange Judd Company, New York.
Agricultural Bacteriology; H. W. Conn, P. Blakiston’s Son & Co.,
Philadelphia.
Creaming Milk by Centrifugal Force; J. D. Frederiksen, Little Falls,
N.Y.
The Common Sense of the Milk Question; John Spargo, The Macmillan
Company, New York.
Practical Dairy Husbandry; X. A. Willard, Excelsior Publishing House,
New York.
Maelkeri Bakteriologi; Orla Jensen, Copenhagen.
Maelkeribruget i Danmark, Bernhard Boggild, Copenhagen.
Mejerivaesenet i Nord-Amerika; J. D. Frederiksen, Copenhagen.
Modern Dairy Guide; Martin H. Meyer, Madison, Wis.
La Laiterie; A. F. Pouriau, Librairie Audot, Lebroc & Cie, Paris.
The Dairying Industry in Canada; J. A. Ruddick, Dept. of Agriculture,
Ottawa, Canada.
Canadian Dairying; Henry H. Dean, William Briggs, Toronto.
The Business of Dairying; Clarence B. Lane, Orange Judd Co., New York.
Questions and Answers on Buttermaking; Chas. A. Publow, Orange Judd
Company, New York.
The Prolongation of Life; Elie Metchnikoff, G. P. Putnam’s Sons, New
York.
The Bacillus of Long Life; Loudon M. Douglas, G. P. Putnam’s Sons, New
York.
The Book of Butter; Edward Sewall Guthrie, The Macmillan Co., New York.
The Care and Feeding of Children; L. Emmett Holt, M. D., D. Appleton &
Co.
Printed in the United States of America
------------------------------------------------------------------------
The following pages contain advertisements of a few of the Macmillan
books on kindred subjects.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Book of Ice Cream
BY WALTER N. FISK
_Cloth, 12 mo_
This book is intended to aid the student and the commercial manufacturer
in better understanding the principles of making and handling ice cream.
It is not primarily intended as a recipe-book, although many recipes are
included in the text.
The first five chapters consist in a general discussion of the materials
used in the manufacture of ice cream as well as the stabilizers and
fillers and flavoring materials. The next chapter deals with the
classification of ice creams, and here the recipes are given. The
equipment and refrigeration are then explained in a separate chapter,
followed by three chapters devoted to the actual making of ice cream.
The concluding pages are taken up with an analysis of the qualities of
ice cream and of the bacteriology of its manufacture. Such a discussion
should be useful both to the student in the class-room and the
progressive manufacturer.
* * * * *
THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
Publishers 64-66 Fifth Avenue New York
------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE RURAL TEXT-BOOK SERIES
EDITED BY L. H. BAILEY
Butter
BY E. S. GUTHRIE
Professor in the Dairy Department, New York State College of
Agriculture, Cornell University
* * * * *
_Cloth, 12mo, $1.75._
A practical discussion of the general characteristics of butter, and of
all of the problems connected with its manufacture and marketing,
together with a brief history of the product. Among the topics
considered are the history of butter; composition and food value of
butter; cleansing and care of dairy utensils; care of milk and cream;
cream separation; grading milk and cream and neutralizing acidity;
pasteurization; cream ripening; churning, washing, salting and packing
butter; flavors of butter; storage of butter; marketing; whey butter,
renovated and ladled butter; margarine, and testing.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Book of Cheese
BY CHARLES THOM
Mycologist in charge of Microbiological Laboratory, Bureau of
Chemistry, United States Department of Agriculture; formerly
Investigator in Cheese at Connecticut Agricultural College
AND
WALTER W. FISK
Assistant Professor of Dairy Industry, New York State
College of Agriculture at Cornell University
_Cloth, 12mo, $1.90._
An exposition of the processes of making and handling a series of
important varieties of cheese. The kinds considered are those made
commercially in America or widely met in the trade here. The relation of
cheese to milk and to its production and composition has been presented
in so far as required for this purpose.
After a general statement on cheese, the authors consider the following
subjects: The milk in its relation to cheese; Coagulating materials;
Lactic starters; Curd making; Classification of cheese; Cheese with sour
milk flavor; Soft cheeses ripened by mold; Soft cheeses ripened by
bacteria; Semi-hard cheeses; The hard cheeses; Cheddar cheese making;
Composition and yield of cheddar cheese; Cheddar cheese ripening; The
Swiss and Italian groups; Miscellaneous varieties and by-products;
Cheese factory construction, equipment, organization; History and
development of the cheese industry in America; Testing; Marketing;
Cheese in the household.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
A Manual of Milk Products
BY W. A. STOCKING, JR.
Professor of Dairy Bacteriology in the New York State College of
Agriculture at Cornell University
_Cloth, 12mo, $2.50_
This is a very recent addition to the Rural Manual Series under the
editorship of L. H. Bailey. The work is intended to serve as a reference
book covering the entire subject of milk and its products. There are
chapters on The Chemical Composition of Milk, The Factors Which
Influence Its Composition, Physical Properties, The Various Tests Used
in the Study of Milk, The Production and Handling of Milk, Butter
Making, The Cream Supply, Butter Making on the Farm, Cheese Making, and
the Bacteriology of Dairy Products.
Milk and Its Products
BY HENRY H. WING
Professor of Dairy Husbandry in Cornell University
_New Revised Edition, with new illustrations, cloth, 12mo, $1.60_
The revolution in dairy practice, brought about by the introduction of
the centrifugal cream separator and the Babcock test for fat, by a more
definite knowledge regarding the various fermentations that so greatly
influence milk, and the manufacture of its products, have demanded the
publication of a book that shall give to the dairyman, and particularly
to the dairy student, in simple, concise form, the principles underlying
modern dairy practice. Such has been Professor Wing’s purpose in this
work. This is not a new edition of the author’s very successful volume
published under the same title many years ago; it is, in reality, an
entirely new book, having been wholly reset and enlarged by the addition
of new matter, both text and illustrations. The author’s aim has been at
all times to give the present state of knowledge as supported by the
weight of evidence and the opinions of those whose authority is highest.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
● Transcriber’s Notes:
○ Footnotes have been gathered and moved to their own section.
○ Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected.
○ Typographical errors were silently corrected.
○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only
when a predominant form was found in this book.
○ Text that was in:
italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_);
bold by is enclosed by “equal” signs (=bold=).