THE VILLAGE OF SAKHARA--SHEIK’S HOUSE--THE BRICK
PYRAMIDS--MUMMIES--THE SACRED IBIS--RETURN TO CAIRO--AN AGREEABLE
BILLET--PREPARATION FOR A VOYAGE--DISAPPOINTMENT--A PARTING--THE
LAST JOURNEY ACROSS THE DESERT--A DILEMMA--BEDOUIN ARABS--NO. 4
STATION--DEPARTURE FROM CAIRO--DINNER AT MR. L.’S--ALEXANDRIA.
Sakhara, within a short distance of the ruins of ancient Memphis, is
about fifteen miles beyond the Pyramids of Ghizeh, and as we had not
started until after mid-day, it was evening by the time we reached
the village. The only place of entertainment, if indeed it can be so
styled, is at the house of an aged Sheik, who accommodated us for a
trifling gratuity, with four walls and a ceiling. The only thing which
could pretend to be an article of furniture was a rough old table,
whose legs were stuck tight into the mud floor. Here we deposited our
cloaks and _liarfs_,[16] and then repaired to the house-top, where
the old Sheik was plucking the two freshly killed fowls which were to
serve for our supper. His daughter, a comely girl of fourteen, with
a pair of eyes that might almost have resuscitated a mummy, rendered
doubly attractive as they were, by a judicious application of _kohl_ at
the lids, concocted a mess of _mish-mish_, over a charcoal fire, and
seemed delighted at the avidity with which we devoured it, for our long
ride had produced a most enviable appetite. Our meal over, we smoked
and talked until one by one our Arab hosts had disappeared, and we
were left to the enjoyment of our mud divan. It was, however, long ere
sleep deigned to visit us. We were besieged by a legion of fleas and
musquitoes, whilst bats came wheeling in at the open windows, scraping
our faces as they skimmed over us.
We were up with the daylight, and mounting our donkeys, trotted merrily
through the palm-groves on to the desert. The Pyramids of Sakhara stand
among a sea of ruins; the ground is cut up and excavated in every
direction, and the discovery of hitherto unopened tombs is of constant
occurrence. We passed one of these on our way to the chief Pyramid,
and as the old Arab who was grubbing his way in, was most anxious that
we should take a peep, we slid down the sand to the entrance, and
wriggled ourselves through on our backs, into a chamber about twelve
feet square, from which the sand had been removed to a depth of
four feet. Here we all lay in profound darkness, until our guide had
struck a light, and we could then perceive that the walls were covered
with hieroglyphs, and bi-coloured frescoes, bearing an appearance of
extreme freshness, the lapse of time having failed to diminish their
brilliancy. We gazed and wondered, but feeling that this was indeed the
pursuit of knowledge under difficulties, inasmuch as we all lay gasping
on our backs, half-buried in sand, and almost choked with smoke, we
made as hasty a retreat as the mode of egress would allow, bestowing
a few paras on the old Arab, and cheering him with the assurance that
he might eventually arrive at something valuable, if he should escape
burying himself alive in the attempt, a consummation which a trifling
sand-slip might at any time effect.
The Pyramids of Sakhara differ from those of Ghizeh, both in shape, and
in the material of which they are composed. When viewed from a short
distance off, their appearance is anything but graceful, as the sides,
instead of tapering gradually to the apex, are carried upwards about a
third part of their height in a perpendicular direction, and are then
rounded off towards the top. They are built of brick or clay moulded
into blocks, and sunburnt, and though it seems hardly fair to assert
this to be a perishable material, after having stood as it has, the
lapse of so many centuries, it is certain that it is fast crumbling to
dust under the rude finger of time.
We made a halt at the entrance on the south side, formed by a breach
rudely excavated in the brick-work, at a depth of several feet below
the level of the surrounding sand. There being nothing in the interior
to repay the trouble of a long crawl upon hands and knees, we rested
awhile among the ruins at the entrance, and opened our wallets. Whilst
refreshing ourselves, one of the guides who had quitted us to visit
and rifle a neighbouring tomb, brought us, carefully poised upon his
head, a well-conditioned mummy. For this relic we paid two piastres,
and amused ourselves by carefully unrolling it, but no sooner did our
employment become known, than mummies came pouring in upon us from all
quarters, and we had some difficulty in making our escape from this
novel and unpleasant market. As we were leaving the place, a large fox
made his appearance close to us. We gave chase immediately, but he
took to the Pyramid, which he mounted in good style, and then, coolly
turning round to look down upon us, took refuge in some crevice, and
was lost to us altogether.
The tombs wherein the mummied ibis is found, lie about half-a-mile
north-east of the Pyramids, and are curious, and easily explored.
“_Potstausend!_” was our involuntary and pardonable exclamation, as the
light of our torches fell upon, and illumined the countless thousands
of earthen vessels containing the sacred bird. The pots stand on end,
layer upon layer, and on bringing some into daylight, we found each
to contain an ibis, (“_in medio tutissimus_,” of course,) carefully
enveloped in cloth, the long bill turned down upon the breast, and the
whole crumbling to dust on exposure to the air. The pottery is very
brittle, the mummy having probably been encased in its mould of damp
clay, and then rolled into shape, and deposited in the pit. Bringing
away one or two as mementos, we turned our backs upon Sakhara, and as
the sun was low when we quitted the caves, had barely time to reach
Cairo before nightfall, by a road close to the bank of the Nile, rather
more circuitous than that by the Pyramids of Ghizeh.
On returning to my house, I found billetted upon me, a gentleman from
Calcutta, who was on his way to Italy, intending to take a long tour
by way of recreation. We soon became intimate, and I found P----n a
most agreeable companion, though I was not destined very long to
enjoy his society. Hearing Bell and myself discussing a proposal which
had been made to us some time before, to undertake a journey through
Abyssinia and the Galla country, with a view, if possible, to throw
some farther light on the rise and course of the White Nile, P----n
could not rest until he had been received into the expedition as a
volunteer, and being a fine well-built man, capable of great fatigue,
and a good horseman withal, he promised to be an acquisition to the
party. The perils of the journey, and the chances of ever returning
from so comparatively unexplored a region, having been duly weighed, it
was at length finally resolved upon, and as a great many presents would
be necessary to ingratiate ourselves with the ruling powers of such
states as lay on the line of our intended route, we paid a visit to
Alexandria. Here we laid in a stock of guns, sword-blades, red cloth,
powder, caps, &c., and other commodities of various kinds, sufficient
to load four mules. It happened, however, at the very last moment, as
it were, that I was prevented from taking my part in the enterprise,
by the receipt of letters, which threatened to call me immediately
to England. To say that I was disappointed, would but ill express my
feelings on the arrival of these (_then_) unwelcome letters, although
I have since been induced to regard the interruption of my plans in
the light rather of a providential interference, for, worn-out as I was
with the tortures of incessant rheumatism, I could scarcely suppose
myself to be in train for an undertaking of such a nature.
All that I could do, therefore, was to assist the departure of my
friends, by seeing them safely across the desert, for which purpose Mr.
Raven lent us a van, the baggage going as usual upon camels. P----n
rode a noble horse, which he had purchased in Cairo, and was now about
to abandon, being unable to take it with him, and not liking to dispose
of it. In this dilemma it was confided to the care of Dr. A----,
whose property it had originally been. We journeyed easily along,
going all the way with the same horses, and stopping at each Station,
making excursions among the hills in quest of gazelles, which were
sufficiently abundant, though extremely shy and wary.
On arriving at Suez, we put up at the house of a Jew merchant, until
we could hear of some boat going down the Red Sea, possessing suitable
accommodation for the party, and we had not been forty-eight hours in
the place, before a messenger brought us news of a good boat about to
sail for Jeddah, and this opportunity was at once embraced by the
travellers, who were anxious to be on their way. Our last evening
together was occupied in adjusting instruments, and regulating watches
and time-pieces. The various presents and ammunition were all repacked
in suitable forms, and in the smallest possible compass, whilst a
great store of eatables had to be laid in for the sea-voyage; P----n
resolutely refusing various things in the form of delicacies, which the
well-intentioned Mrs. ---- of the hotel pressed upon his acceptance,
declaring that he would burthen himself with nothing which he could
possibly do without, a maxim which many travellers would do well to
profit by.
I shall pass over our leave-taking, which was more _triste_ than such
occasions commonly are, from the extreme uncertainty of our ever
meeting again. I saw them on board of the Red Sea boat, where they
spread their mats under the shelter of the raised deck, among many
other travellers bound to the southward, some of whom sat calmly
smoking, buried up to the neck, and almost concealed by their bales of
merchandise and provender, while others less accustomed to the perils
of the deep, were now prostrating themselves on their prayer-carpets,
invoking Allah to send them propitious winds. Having paid to my friends
a last and parting greeting, I returned to the hotel lonely and
disspirited. Sounds of merriment which reached me as I approached the
divan-room, seemed so very uncongenial to my feelings, that I turned
to the square to select a dromedary for my luggage, consisting of one
solitary carpet-bag, and having saddled P----n’s horse, which he had
requested me to leave with Dr. A., I turned my back upon Suez.
Evening was setting in as I passed the well, and I had a long and
weary jog in the moonlight, to No. 6 Station, where I was refreshed
by turning into bed. Having no cause for undue haste, and not fearing
the excessive heat, to which I was now accustomed, I did not leave the
Station until ten the following morning, having previously instructed
my Bedouin to come on after me to No. 5, where I would wait for him.
The day was beautiful in the extreme; not a single cloud obscured the
vast expanse of blue above and around, whilst a light breeze from the
westward gently stirred the air. Deep in thought, I trotted leisurely
onwards, paying but little attention to the course taken by my steed, a
want of precaution which I soon had reason to regret. I was recalled to
myself by the unwonted sight of a quantity of herbage, somewhat dry and
sunburnt, it is true, but still sufficiently green to excite wonder in
the desert, where vegetation is but scarce. This extended far and wide
around me; a tuft here and there, with an interval of sand between.
I had strayed from the track, and had lost myself, whilst my horse
also seemed to be aware that something was wrong, as he all at once
came to a full stop, and began to stare about him. Then he disturbed
the silence by a loud and prolonged neighing, which was so sudden and
unexpected that it frightened me considerably. In vain I gazed round
for some landmark which might serve me as a guide in regaining the
beaten track. Nothing was to be seen but an interminable expanse of
sand. I was now really alarmed, and my imagination busied itself in
conjuring up long-forgotten stories of travellers half-roasted by the
sun, or dying of thirst, and although I had made a capital breakfast
two hours before, I was now assailed with an irresistible longing for
water. Thinking that the natural instinct of my horse might be of
service in this predicament, I gave him the rein, and let him go where
he listed; but after a few minutes trotting about, he stopped short
with a neigh, that almost jerked me out of my saddle, and I found
myself as much as ever at a loss.
It now occurred to me that if I had not strayed very wide of the route,
a telegraph ought to be within sight, and I therefore made for the
highest of the sand hills near me. Nor was I disappointed, saving that
it proved a good two miles distant. Having reached it, I ascended,
and looked in all directions for the Station, (No. 5,) which it was
difficult to distinguish, from its close resemblance in colour to the
surrounding sand. Being now relieved from the apprehension of having
lost myself, I gazed round the horizon, in the hope of discovering the
Bedouin who had charge of my carpet-bag, which was rendered doubly
valuable, from the fact of its containing a tolerably large sum of
money in gold, and some important documents entrusted to me by P----n.
It was a long while past the hour when he should have reached No. 5,
and I felt somewhat uneasy, as I reflected that the man was totally
unknown to me, and that were he inclined to rob me, I possessed no
clue which might aid me in recovering my property. Tired and parched
with thirst, I gained the Station, and rousing the old _Bawaub_, or
door-keeper, sent him off to the Telegraph, to reconnoitre, in the hope
that his more practised eyesight might discover the truant Arab. When
he was gone, I drew the strong wooden bolt across the door, and sharing
with my horse a welcome meal of beans and water, lay down upon the
straw to sleep.
I had not been many minutes in a state of forgetfulness, ere I was
roused by the clattering of many hoofs, and the neighing of horses.
Cautiously opening the door, I was surprised by the appearance of a
dozen or more armed Bedouins, who seemed equally astonished at the
presence of a Frank, and as it struck me as more than probable that
they had meditated recruiting their horses at the expense of Messrs.
Hill and Co., I saluted them profoundly, and accepting the proffered
pipe of friendship, sat down with them at the threshold, closing the
door after me, and resolved to await the return of the _Bawaub_ from
the Telegraph. I had no sooner explained the cause of his absence to my
new friends, and the great trouble I was in at the loss of my camel,
than one of them asked me to describe the colour of the animal, and the
dress and turban of its rider. Having done so, he informed me that he
had seen a party answering to my description, in the track on the other
side the hills, and that he was proceeding in the direction of No. 4.
Finding his statement confirmed by the rest, I waited to reward the
old door-keeper for his weary walk, and mounting my horse, reached the
centre Station as the sun was setting, and was not a little gratified
to observe my truant camel quietly chewing the cud in the court-yard.
It appeared that the Arab also had gone wide of the route, and missing
the appointed place of rendezvous, had made the best of his way to No.
4.
A large party of travellers by the “Hindostan” steamer arrived in the
course of the night, from Suez, amongst whom was Lord E----e, who had
passed rapidly onwards towards Alexandria: I rode in company with the
remainder to No. 2, where we stayed the night. The Hotel at Cairo was
crowded with travellers, who had flocked in from all parts. Among those
from Upper Egypt, I was glad to welcome my friend M---- P----, who
seemed surprised to find me still in Cairo, and that I had abandoned
the Abyssinian journey. He had made arrangements to start off after
the others, so as to overtake them at Missouah, and had ordered from
England an enormous box of valuables to carry with him, which, after
much search, we succeeded in rescuing from a store, where it had been
deposited on its arrival. Some of his instruments were unfortunately
much injured, and from the impossibility of getting them repaired,
rendered altogether useless.
I found that Mr. Raven had gone down to Alexandria in one of his small
steamers, and not wishing to await the chance of another opportunity,
I joined my friend D---- of the Peninsular Company, and two gentlemen
who were returning to England, in chartering a Nile boat for our
own use. Packing up my few valuables, and bidding a final adieu to
my Cairo friends, I rode down to Boulac, where I found my companions
all ready for a start. With a fair wind, we dropped silently down the
river, and the long evening was beguiled by a recital of some of the
adventures of M---- M----, who was fresh from Upper Egypt, and boiling
over with the latest news from Thebes and the cataracts. It would have
been better for us had we thus continued to amuse ourselves during the
entire night, for on retiring to our sleeping-places, we found them
swarming with rats and cockroaches, not to speak of the myriads of
fleas which hopped over us in all directions, nor the perpetual sting
of the not less troublesome musquitoe. It was in vain that I smoked
pipe after pipe of tobacco, the combined nuisance continued unabated,
and had I even succeeded in chasing away my tormentors, the tortures of
rheumatism would have effectually banished sleep.
Early on the morning of the third-day, we reached Atféh, and were so
fortunate as to find one of our iron track-boats, going empty down the
canal. Whilst shifting our luggage, a second boat-load of travellers
arrived in our wake, and joined us. Ten miles from Atféh we came
alongside of the pleasure-boat belonging to Mr. L. of Alexandria, who
no sooner caught sight of us, than he insisted upon our landing at his
farm, and joining him at dinner.
From the conversation maintained at table, I was led to opine that
the term of my quarantine at Malta was likely to be passed in very
agreeable company, as most of the party intended taking the next
French steamer. Among other visitors stopping at Mr. L’s house, was an
English gentleman who had spent some months in a ramble through the
fertile plains bordering on the Nile. In the course of his wanderings
he had fallen in with Mehemet Ali, who, waiving all ceremony, had sent
a Janissary to invite him to a tete-a-tete dinner. Such an honour had
perhaps never before been conferred upon a Frank, in an ex-official
capacity, and was even now enhanced by the fact of the impromptu meal
being served as much as possible in the European style, at a table
on which a white cloth was spread, chairs being also placed for the
Viceroy and his guest. Between each dish, and there were many, the
old gentleman took a deep draught[17] of the _sheshè_ which stood on
the ground at his side, insisting that our friend should follow his
example. Agriculture formed the chief subject of discourse, the Pasha
appearing quite at home in various farming operations, for which his
guest would not previously have given him credit. With our relations
with China too, he was very conversant, blaming us strongly for
teaching the Chinese how to go to war, and confidently declaring, that
with their extraordinary talent for imitation, the rascals would, one
day or another, be turning round upon, and robbing us of India. The
repast concluded with coffee, and a pipe was handed to the Englishman,
to his no small astonishment, such being a compliment paid only to
those of the highest military rank.
Our party sat talking over Mr. L.’s excellent wines, until so late
an hour, that it was nearly dusk ere we returned to our boat, and we
reached the quay at Moharrem Bey, long after the gates of Alexandria
had been closed for the night. We were thus compelled to sleep in the
boat, although some of our party refused to submit to this proceeding,
until they had made trial of an expedition to the city walls, from
which they returned after an unsuccessful attempt at parley with the
sentinels on guard, in a language of which neither party understood ten
words.
FOOTNOTES:
[16] Coverlids of quilted cotton.
[17] The word _ishrob_, which is applied to the act of smoking,
means in Arabic, _to drink_, a synonyme explained by the practice of
_swallowing_ or _inhaling_ the smoke, peculiar to Orientals.