THE NILE BOAT--VOYAGE DOWN THE RIVER--DEFENSIVE PREPARATIONS--SUDDEN
SQUALL--NARROW ESCAPE--ALEXANDRIA--RIVAL HOTELS--LESSONS IN
DONKEYSHIP--DOMESTIC COOKERY--THE “GREAT LIVERPOOL”--PHYSIOLOGY OF THE
SEIS.
At the end of the month I accompanied Mr. Raven to Alexandria in one of
his Nile sailing-boats, which are light and commodious little vessels,
drawing but two or three feet of water, and especially adapted for the
voyage into upper Egypt, to which purpose indeed they are principally
applied. Having sunk it under water for a day or two, and cleansed
it as much as possible of fleas and cockroaches, we shipped a goodly
cafass of provisions, and taking with us an Arab cook, embarked at
nightfall. The wind was unfortunately against us, obliging our crew
to use their oars, and very much retarding our progress. Our boat,
which was somewhat of a hobby of Raven’s, was very completely fitted
with every possible convenience, and had two compact little cabins
under the poop-deck, just long enough for a person to lie down in, one
being furnished with bed-places. In the middle of the forward cabin,
was a sort of tuck-up table, on which our supper was now laid out
by our swarthy factotum, who had for some little time been tickling
our appetites with the grateful odours of certain savoury ragoûts,
concocted over a charcoal fire ’midships. Over our heads, suspended
from the roof, swung a monstrous stable-lantern, shedding a dim yellow
light, just sufficient to show us the way to our mouths, for to read
or talk were equally impossible, owing to the unceasing song of the
Arab boatmen, who accompany themselves as they row, with a rude melody,
by no means grateful to English ears. All we could do, was to recline
at our ease, and puff away at our chibouques, until the heavy dew,
which wetted everything, as effectually as if we had been exposed to a
drizzling rain, drove us to our couches.
I awoke several times during the night, and emerging from the cabin,
found every one but myself fast asleep, the vessel gliding noiselessly
down the stream. Even the head of the old Reis, who was perched upon
the roof of the cabin, had dropped down upon his chest, and saving the
ripple of the water under our bows, and the measured snore of some of
our party, no sound was to be heard, and we moved imperceptibly onwards
in perfect stillness. I had no heart to arouse any of the poor tired
Arabs from their stolen slumbers, the more especially, as I knew the
danger of running aground to be but slight; so once more seeking my
hard bed, and covering myself completely in my cloak, I bid defiance
to musquitoes and cockroaches, and was soon deep in pleasant dreams of
home.
The two next days were passed in our boat, the monotony of the voyage
being varied by occasional runs on shore, when we moored at some
village or other, to take in a fresh supply of milk or vegetables. At
other times, where the high banks afforded good walking, we indulged in
a little shooting, for doves and small birds were very plentiful, and
afforded excellent eating. As the third night closed in, a light breeze
sprung up, which aided us considerably in our progress, and inspired
our tired crew with fresh energy.
As we made our preparations for turning in, I remarked that Raven
drew from his pocket a huge knife, which, after a careful inspection,
he deposited with great gravity under his pillow, though whether
as a precaution against intrusion, or any act of foul play on the
part of our boatmen, I did not inquire, merely viewing such unwonted
preparation with considerable curiosity.
I had not been long asleep, when I found myself suddenly rolled from
my sofa on to the floor, our stable-lantern and dining-table bearing
me company; and on opening my eyes, I could just catch a glimpse of
Raven escaping from the door-way with his big knife, whilst the violent
vociferations of the Arabs on deck, mingled with a confused rushing
sound of both wind and water, and the alarming lurch of the vessel,
left me in some doubt as to whether I was murdered or drowning. A
moment more and tranquillity was restored; the boat righted, and I
found my legs. Emerging from the cabin, I learnt that a sudden puff of
wind had caught our huge lateen sail, which, in true Arab fashion, had
been made fast to a ring in the deck, whilst the lazy sailor, who ought
to have held it, was enjoying a comfortable nap. Had it not been for
the promptitude displayed by Raven, who had severed the rope with the
trusty knife from under his pillow, it is more than probable that _he_
would have got a sound ducking, and _I_ have served as a _bonne bouche_
for some stray crocodile; for the Nile boatmen, who are amphibious,
and look upon an unexpected dip rather as a treat than otherwise, have
the unpleasant habit of extending assistance only to those in supreme
authority. Thus, while they would have rescued Mr. Raven, I might have
bubbled away my last breath in the cabin, or have floated down the
stream, entirely unheeded and uncared for.
Providentially, however, we were saved from capsizing, and having
bestowed two or three hearty kicks on the man who had caused the
sudden alarm, we retired again to our couches, and reached Atféh about
daybreak, without farther mishap.
Half-an-hour was passed here in preparing one of the iron track-boats
to convey us down the Canal to Alexandria, where we arrived about three
in the afternoon, and just in time for me to put off in a little boat
to meet one of the French steamers, which was visible in the offing.
Furner and I had a sharp race with a rival boat from Colomb’s Hotel,
and as the French captain suffered their agent to come on board, whilst
he politely saluted us with a copious sprinkling of warm water, it
was some satisfaction to remark that there was not even one solitary
passenger for either of us. There is considerable jealousy between the
proprietors of the “Rey” and “Colomb,” by which names the two principal
hotels are distinguished, and we hear that the opposing party is about
to start some canal-boats, and a couple of desert carriages, at a lower
rate of transit. This is doubtless all very fair, and as competition
generally benefits the public, we shall watch with interest the
progress of our rivals.
Mr. Raven quitted us again the next day to return to Cairo, taking with
him Mrs. Hill and her little daughter, the widow and child of his late
partner, who had been sojourning some time in Alexandria. We drove
down to Moharrem Bey in one of Rey’s carriages, and the evening being
very dark, we had much difficulty in picking our way through the ruins
which mark the site of the ancient city, and ran many chances of an
upset in one or other of the deep holes which skirt the track. Raven
gave me instructions, upon this occasion, to look after and see to the
safe conduct of the Marquis of ----, the newly appointed Governor of
Madras, who is expected by the next steamer from England, and enjoined
me to pay particular attention to the comfort of his lordship during
the voyage to Cairo, and to place at his disposal the whole of one
of our track-boats, that he may be delayed as little as possible.
Having received my orders, I returned to the Okella with the agreeable
prospect before me of a few days quiet, prior to the arrival of the
next mail.
I shall spare the reader a detail of my every-day life at Alexandria,
for my time when not taken up by office-duties, or the study of Arabic,
in which I was now making some progress, was chiefly occupied in
strolling through the bazaars, or in extended rambles with Furner on
donkey-back, in search of the picturesque. Our rides were frequently
productive of much amusement, for Furner excelled in donkeyship, riding
at full gallop à la Franconi, or sitting with his face to the tail, in
order to obtain a better command of his animal’s flank. Numerous also,
were the tumbles we got, but as we never made use of our stirrups, we
invariably pitched upon our feet, and by this very simple precaution,
escaped the bruises which fall to the lot of such as place too much
confidence in these little animals.
We were frequently accompanied in our rambles by our fair friend from
Beyrout, who had shewn her appreciation of Raven’s offer of house-room
for a few days, by permanently hanging up her cap in our hall, where
she makes herself extremely useful in superintending our household
affairs. Were she anything of a cook, it is probable that our own
particular “_chef_” would take umbrage at her interference, but she
is guiltless of even the most superficial knowledge of the art, and
it was with much difficulty that I initiated her into the mystery of
making an apple-pie. It is true that the first attempt on my part was
any thing but calculated to impress her with a very exalted idea of
my qualifications, but then I had so many difficulties to contend
with. In the first place, I do not suppose that all Egypt could have
furnished a pie-dish, for which I was compelled to substitute an
Italian wash-hand basin. One of our tables served as a dough-board,
and an empty wine-bottle for a rolling-pin, and having cut and cored
my apples, I covered the whole over with what I thought an excellent
paste, and sent it to a neighbouring oven, reserving myself during the
first part of our dinner for the full enjoyment of the anticipated
luxury. It came in due course, but somehow or other resisted all our
efforts to get at the inside of it. Our knives made no impression
whatever on the crust, which was of adamantine quality, totally
shaming the old proverb about promises and pie-crusts, and after
various ineffectual schemes, we found our only way was to turn it
bottom upwards, and carefully break away the dish, revenging ourselves
upon the apples, which were excellent. Succeeding attempts proved
more satisfactory, and we became eventually rather famous for our
productions in this branch of cookery.
On the 18th of the month, the “Great Liverpool” arrived at Alexandria,
bringing the expected Marquis of ----, and about forty other
passengers. We got away about three in the afternoon, reaching Atféh at
midnight, but the quantity of luggage was so enormous, that it took
us upwards of three hours to shift it on board the “Cairo” steamer,
and two hours more would very likely have been occupied, but for the
assistance of a French gentleman named Cler, connected in some way
with the Company, who had accompanied us thus far. We did at last turn
our backs upon Atféh, and after a brief stoppage at Cairo, arrived at
Suez just in time to catch the “Berenice” steamer, although some of
our party, who stuck fast in the sand, between Nos. 2 and 3 Station,
had a hard push for it: these were the Governor of Goa and his suite,
four gentlemen in one carriage, who were compelled to vary the monotony
of their journey by a ride of sixteen miles on the bare backs of the
horses, which brought them on to No. 4 in a deplorable condition. It
was some consolation to them to find a good meal in readiness, for
having seen their mishap, I had ridden quickly forward, in order to
dispatch an empty carriage to bring them on, a procedure, now rendered
useless by their appearance. So anxious were they about catching the
steamer, that I could with difficulty persuade them to sit down while
they swallowed their hot stew.
On reaching Suez, I went on board the “Berenice,” with Mr. Hill, who,
having personally driven the Marquis of ---- across the desert,
obtained a flattering testimonial as to care and attention during
the journey, which had in fact been made in little more than twelve
hours, by those in the first three carriages. At the hotel, I met with
a Captain J----, an officer on sick leave, from India, who bore me
company on my return to Cairo; and as time was no particular object
to either of us, we spent two days and nights on the way, changing
horses only once. Our “_Seis_,” or running footman, kept up with us the
whole weary eighty-four miles, relieving himself only by occasionally
hanging on behind, and refusing our offer of a seat inside with stoical
indifference. He, poor fellow, like the rest of his class, was a mere
skeleton, his flesh being wasted away by undue perspirations, and a
lack of such food as is essential to keep up the stamina during such
continued exercise. Each set of horses, or team, has its attendant
“_Seis_,” who, whilst the animals are resting, snatches a brief sleep,
and swallows his unpretending meal of bread and water, with perhaps a
relish in the shape of an onion, or a pull at the _nargileh_ of the old
_bawaub_, or door-keeper. As it sometimes happens that the same team
of horses has to perform two or three stages, the poor “Seis” comes in
for a double duty, which is, nevertheless, unhesitatingly accomplished,
and even entered upon with joyful alacrity, should the prospect be
seasoned with the promise of a trifle of _bucksheesh_ on the part of
any of the travellers. I have known them to convey a letter or message
from Cairo to Suez with incredible speed, running all the way, and
carrying with them in the bosom of their blue cotton shirt, just as
much bread as would serve to sustain them on the journey.