[Illustration: SAND AND CANVAS
THE CERVARO CAVES.]
SAND AND CANVAS;
A
NARRATIVE OF ADVENTURES IN EGYPT,
WITH A SOJOURN
AMONG THE ARTISTS IN ROME.
BY SAMUEL BEVAN.
LONDON:
CHARLES GILPIN, 5, BISHOPSGATE STREET, WITHOUT.
MDCCCXLIX.
LONDON:
RICHARD BARRETT, PRINTER,
MARK LANE.
TO
THOMAS WAGHORN, Lieut. R.N.,
WHO BY HIS OWN
ENERGY, AND INDEFATIGABLE EXERTIONS,
SUCCEEDED IN ESTABLISHING THE PRACTICABILITY
OF THE
OVERLAND ROUTE TO INDIA;
SACRIFICING HIS TIME AND FORTUNE IN DIVESTING THE EGYPTIAN PORTION
OF THAT ROUTE OF ITS VARIED DISCOMFORTS; FACILITATING BY
THE AID OF STEAM THE PASSAGE OF THE MAHMOUDIEH
AND THE NILE; AND RENDERING SAFE, AND
EVEN AGREEABLE, THE ONCE
DREADED DESERT,
THESE SKETCHES ARE MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED.
PREFACE.
The matter contained in the following pages has been gathered from a
diary, in which the incidents of each successive day had been regularly
noted down, not with any intention of subsequently submitting them
to the public, but from a belief that the practice, if not actually
instructive, is at least sure to repay the little trouble it occasions.
As the writer had not been attracted either to Egypt or Italy, by any
of the usual inducements which influence the generality of travellers,
but had been suddenly transplanted, by a somewhat singular chain
of circumstances, from the yellow fogs of the great Metropolis, to
the bracing air and cloudless skies of the Desert, it was suggested
that a relation of his experiences, might possibly present something
new, even upon _those_ countries, without encroaching upon themes
already exhausted by able and experienced travellers. He has not
therefore, carried the reader into the midst of scenes with which he
is already well acquainted, nor are his pages filled with elaborate
descriptions of churches, temples, and palaces--he has not indulged
in rhapsodies upon the pleasant prospects which greeted him, as well
as his predecessors, in a ramble through the garden of Italy, neither
does he seek to parade his own opinions upon the many glorious works of
art, it has been his good fortune to fall in with. All that awaits the
reader, is a simple narrative of adventures during a few months’ active
employment in Egypt, and a description of such places and things, in
Rome and other Italian cities, as are more immediately connected with
modern Art and its numerous votaries.
The writer trusts that the title of the present volume is too ambiguous
to allow of any feeling of disappointment being engendered in the minds
of those who may take it up for curiosity’s sake, and as Sand and
Canvas are at the best but dry subjects, it will be hardly fair on the
part of such as consent to follow him to the end, to retaliate on the
score of any previous misconception.
_London, December, 1848._
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
PAGE.
The author meets with an advertisement in “The Times”--Finds an
unexpected charm in his wig--Undergoes a cross-examination--Receives
his credentials--Mistakes his road, and is set right
by a friend--Eats a farewell dinner at Blackwall--And finally
embarks in a new line of business 1
CHAPTER II.
Discomforts of the Channel--An unpleasant discovery--Horrors
of the Rotonde--A traveller’s toilette--Chalons sur Soane--Lyons--A
transplanted engineer--The Rhone--Arles--The
Mediterranean--Marseilles 8
CHAPTER III.
The “Minos”--English and French appetites--Leghorn--Towting
Jews--Civita Vecchia--Naples--Formalities of landing--Malta--Mr.
Portenier--The “Lycurge”--Syra 16
CHAPTER IV.
The harbour of Alexandria--Mr. Furner--Scene at the Hard--A
donkey stand--Triumphal entry into the Great Square--The
“India agency”--The English Okella--Plague seals--Confidential
talk--Mr. Raven--Hassan, the dragoman--The Bazaars--Arab
shopkeepers--The Harraat--Pompey’s Pillar--The baths of Cleopatra 24
CHAPTER V.
The Café--Arab music--Artful expedient--The Ghawazee and
Kowal--Change of costume--The lady from Beyrout--Odd
procession--Showers of rose water--Arrival of the “Tagus”--The
Overland Mail--Departure of the India-bound passengers--The
Mahmoudieh--Atféh 35
CHAPTER VI.
The Nile steam boat--A deck dinner--Boulac--The Esbekier--The
“Grand Eastern Hotel”--Mr. Raven’s office--The
transit-business--Loading of the camels--Departure of the
caravan--The Desert--The Stations--Water 45
CHAPTER VII.
Desert fare--The Bawaub--No. 4 Station--A siesta--The solitary
tree--Pestilential breezes--A dry well--Suez--Waghorn’s
Hotel--The “Berenice”--Return to Cairo--A thirsty driver--Cool
reception at a warm bath--The pendant rag 58
CHAPTER VIII.
An Egyptian hammam--Inhuman tortures--The barber--The
chiropodist--Delightful respite--Pale ale and Manillas--Raven’s
collection--Dr. A.--Antiquities--Mr. Bell--His African adventures--The
White Nile expedition 70
CHAPTER IX.
The Nile boat--Voyage down the river--Defensive preparations--Sudden
squall--Narrow escape--Alexandria--Rival hotels--Lessons
in donkeyship--Domestic cookery--The “Great Liverpool”--Physiology
of the Seis 82
CHAPTER X.
Cairo--The Turkish bazaar--Test of a sword blade--The “Little
Nile”--Recollections of the plague--The Eglintoun tents--Proceedings
in the “Great Square”--Astonishment of the Pasha--A
Mahomedan Dinner-party--Novel dishes--A Jewish wedding--Impertinent
curiosity--The bride’s dower--A cunning Hebrew 93
CHAPTER XI.
Dwarkanauth Tagore--Storm in the Mahmoudieh--A chapter of
accidents--The half-drowned cadet--Arab knavery--Effects of the
murrain--Donkey-chairs--A midnight gallop--Alteration in prospect--My
van and its occupants--An enraged Portuguese--Disagreeable
situation--Christmas-eve--Midnight interruption--Goose
and Champagne 106
CHAPTER XII.
Influx of travellers--Provision stores--The preserved “round”--New
Year’s-day--Melancholy opening of New Year--Visit to
the Pyramids--Old Selim--A moonlight walk--The Sphynx and German
savans--Ascent of Cheops--The interior of the Pyramids--Unceremonious
intruders--Trial of skill--A crack shot 123
CHAPTER XIII.
The village of Sakhara--Sheik’s house--The brick
pyramids--Mummies--The sacred ibis--Return to Cairo--An agreeable
billet--Preparation for a voyage--Disappointment--A parting--The last
journey across the Desert--A dilemma--Bedouin Arabs--No. 4
Station--Departure from Cairo--Dinner at Mr. L.’s--Alexandria 140
CHAPTER XIV.
The “Minos” again--Café Francais--The Enfield stage--Departure
from Egypt--Change of boats at Syra--A gale in the
Mediterranean--Malta--The quarantine harbour--Fort Manuel--Inquisitive
guardiano--Travellers’ collections--sanitary regulations and low
diet--The parlatori--Resources in quarantine--Happy release 156
CHAPTER XV.
Choice of a route--The “Ercolano”--Syracuse--The Albergo del
Sole--Sicilian cobbler--The ear of Dionysius--Beautiful
gardens--Museum--Messina--Ancient
fresco--Tropea--Stromboli--Naples--“Hotel de New
York”--Herculaneum--Pompeii--Streets--Shops--Private houses--Progress
of excavation 168
CHAPTER XVI.
The Campo Santo--Churches--The Miserere--Curious
sculpture--Agnano--Grotto del Cane--Frogs--Pozzuolo--Cave of the
sybil--Hot springs--Boiled eggs--Hot sand--No end of
phenomena--Baiæ--Vesuvius--Resina--The hermitage--Fatiguing
ascent--The crater--Coming down with a run--The “Mongibello”--Civita
Vecchia--Rome 183
CHAPTER XVII.
The Roman Douane--The Hotel Cesarj--Meditations--The Caffé
Greco--Its occupants--Morning walk--Wine carts--The
Ruspoli--Bellamy’s toilet--Preparations for the Cervaro--The
robing-room--Choice of a dress--The livery stable--Porta
Maggiore--The Torre dei Schiave--A grand review--The
quarries--Incantation to the sybil--The dinner--Return to Rome 199
CHAPTER XVIII.
The “Ponte Molle” club--Technical alphabet--Moccoletti--The black
board--Election of candidates--The illustrated
chorus--Harmonies--Change of domicile--The Via Sistina--The Pincian
promenade--Trasteverini--The French Academy--High art and its
votaries--Roman models--Pifferari--Pietro Pombo--The Via
Margutta--L----, and his painting--Extraordinary model--Pictures
and studios 216
CHAPTER XIX.
The “Greco”--Signor Giovanni--Frequenters of the
Barcaccia--Pietro--The Roman cigar--Caffé du’ Bon Gout--“Punch a la
Romaine”--Italian eating-houses--The Lepri--Old
Aurelio--Terribile--Roman bill of fare--Sweets--English
errors--Dessert--The Lepri Garden--The “Gabbione”--Its
neighbourhood--Fried fish--Alessio--“Una Bomba Alla Cerito” 235
CHAPTER XX.
The tombola--Mausoleum of Augustus--The montgolfier--Curious
finale--The bigliardo--Pool--Sir T. B.--An amusing acquaintance--The
bewildered barber--The dog “Pincio”--Preparations for
Carnival--Bombarding in the Corso--Characters--Charlatans--The
Festini 247
CHAPTER XXI.
Journey to Florence--My friend Luish--A suspicious
landlady--Monterosi--Nepi--The hotel--Luish’s hat--Civita
Castellana--Otricoli--My washerwoman’s cousin--The merchandize
cart--Narni--Terni--Pie-di’-Luco--The echo--Strittura--Egg
diet--Fuligno--Perugia--Boarding-houses--Florence 264
CHAPTER XXII.
The “Porta Rossa”--Journey to Bologna--The Belli
Arti--Arcades--Certosa--Our fellow-travellers--The parrot--Austrian
Douane--Ferrara--Padua--Caffé Pedrocchi--Venice--The Casa
Raffaelli--Gondolas--Luish’s professional pursuits--My friend
D. again--Titian--Military salute--The Passeggiata 280
CHAPTER XXIII.
The Caffés of Venice--The “Florian”--The “Imperatore
D’Austria”--Piazza--Venetian hawkers--Musicians--Merchants of
Caromel--The Schiavoni--Italian cards--The Birrarie--San Moise--An
accordeon player--Quintavalle--Queer
fish--Dining-rooms--Serenades--Night on the Grand Canal--The
Rialto--San Lazzaro--Malamocco--Chioggia--Captain Rovere in danger 298
CHAPTER XXIV.
The Ducal Palace--Bridge of Sighs--The Pozzi--Campanile--View
from the summit--Swifts--The pigeons of St. Marks--Departure
from Venice--The Ancona steamer--The Adriatic--Vicissitudes
of a sea-voyage--The unfortunate friar--Pola--Its
antiquities--The hotel--Ancona--The Custom-house--Disappointment--A
village in the Appenines--Fuligno--Assisi--The
boarding-house--San Francesco--Musical shoemakers--Spoleto--My
countrywoman--Terni--Rome 313
CHAPTER XXV.
Change of domicile--Francesco--Friends from
England--Picture-shops--Old painting--Artists and their
patrons--Mr. Titmarsh--Anecdote of N---- --The dinner at
Bertini’s--The English Academy--Table talk--Harmony--The
Americans--Roman gaieties--Torlonia’s--The Festini--Hospital of
San Michele--The Quirinal--Via Gregoriana--Mr. Raven again--The
English church--The Friends’ meeting-house--Illumination of St.
Peter’s 333
CHAPTER XXVI.
Tivoli--Country excursions--Ciciliano--Hospitality of the
mountaineers--The Porta San Lorenzo--Visit to the Governor--Another
start northward--Florence--The Uffizii--S----, and his head of
Velasquez--The flood of the Arno--Mr. M.--Lord D.--Unexpected
summons--Pisa--Leghorn--Genoa--The
“Diligence”--Alessandria--Turin--The railway deputation--Expedition
to the Mont Cenis--Susa--Bardoneche--My friend B.’s
mountain ramble--Successful “Jodeln”--The valley of the
Dora Susa--Departure from Turin--Conclusion 351
CHAPTER I.
THE AUTHOR MEETS WITH AN ADVERTISEMENT IN “THE TIMES”--FINDS AN
UNEXPECTED CHARM IN HIS WIG--UNDERGOES A CROSS-EXAMINATION--RECEIVES
HIS CREDENTIALS--MISTAKES HIS ROAD, AND IS SET RIGHT BY A FRIEND--EATS
A FAREWELL DINNER AT BLACKWALL--AND FINALLY EMBARKS IN A NEW LINE OF
BUSINESS.
On a sunny morning in the spring of 184--, I sat lingering over the
remains of a late breakfast, at my lodgings in Regent Street. My deed
of partnership with Messrs. ---- having been cancelled but a few days
before, I found myself left without any ostensible means of disposing
advantageously of my time, which began to hang somewhat heavily on my
hands, for although, in London more especially, there are a thousand
ways of _killing time_, it is by no means so easy to hit upon the
right method of making the best use of it. Whilst musing on this
subject, my eyes wandered over the columns of the “_Times_” newspaper,
which lay on the table before me, and having glanced over sundry
announcements of “eligible opportunities,” and notices of various
seductive offers of “Partnership,” my attention was suddenly arrested
by the following: “Wanted immediately, for service in a foreign
country, a gentleman of business-habits and good address. Salary £250.
per annum. All expenses paid. Apply personally to Messrs. * * * *,
Solicitors, Tokenhouse Yard.”
Whether it was that this particular advertisement seemed to me to
possess a greater claim to good faith than others in the same column,
or that the words “_foreign country_,” had some particular charm about
them, I know not; all I can say is, that in a quarter of an hour after
the third or fourth reading of it, I was on my way to Tokenhouse Yard,
having paid a rather more than ordinary attention to the appearance of
my outer man.
Arrived at the office of the solicitors, I found upon the staircase,
some ten or more persons of various degrees of respectability, each of
whom seemed to be regarding a scrap of paper which he held in his hand.
With a similar document, I, in my turn was duly served, and found it
inscribed, “* * * * of the Overland, 34, Cornhill, destination Egypt.”
I followed the rest of my fellow-candidates, for such they doubtless
were, into Cornhill, although by the time we got there, I remarked that
the number of them was sensibly diminished; but not daring to enter
the lists with so many individuals, who, if not exactly “_gentlemen_,”
might possibly, in the terms of the advertisement, be more accustomed
to “_business habits_” than myself, I took the precaution of waiting in
ambush near the street door, until, one by one, I had counted them all
out. As I watched their faces to mark what success they might have met
with, I was not very greatly surprised to hear some such expressions
as “No go,” “Walker,” &c., and gathered considerable encouragement
therefrom. Having seen the last of them out, I presented myself and
paper, and was ushered through an outer office, into the presence of
the great “Overland” himself, who, receiving me with a bow, inquired if
I came from his solicitors.
“I do.”
“Then go, Sir, and get your hair cut, and return here in a quarter of
an hour.”
This cool reception might have damped the courage of any applicant
not quite so _hard up_ as myself, and probably if used, had its weight
with many of those who had preceded me. I stood my ground however, and
removing my wig, (rather an exuberant one, by Truefit,) I rammed it
into my hat.
“Pray, Sir, be seated,” said the “Overland.”
I took a chair and screwed up my courage for a cross-examination.
“Can you drive an engine?”
“I can.”
“Can you speak French?”
“Yes.”
“German and Italian?”
I nodded affirmatively.
“Arabic?” I was about to assent to this query also, but suddenly
recollecting that my interrogator might himself be an adept at that
tongue, I seasoned my denial with the assurance that I could make
myself master of it in a fortnight.
“Do you understand book-keeping by doubly entry?”
Here _was_ a poser. I have since wondered how I ever got over it. I
winked at the Overland, and replied, “I _ought_ to.”
“I think you’ll do, Sir,” was his rejoinder; “come and breakfast with
me to-morrow morning.” I bowed and withdrew, and whilst adjusting my
wig in the outer office, I heard an order given to the head clerk
to admit no more applicants. This I regarded as a sure earnest of
an engagement, and began to feel myself a man of business again. I
fancied myself a full head taller than before, and stooped very low
as I threaded some narrow archways near the Bank. How I got home, I
cannot distinctly remember, but I packed my portmanteau in readiness
for an immediate departure, in spite of the remonstrances of my worthy
landlady, who looked on a journey to Egypt in the light of a wanton
sacrifice of my life, assuring me that I should die of the plague in
less than a week after I got there, and making me promise that I would
send her off a mummy immediately on my arrival.
I was punctual to my appointment next morning, and it was fortunate
that I was so, for * * * * was never known to be a minute behind
time in any thing, and was in the act of pouring out my cup of tea
when I entered his apartment. Had I been four minutes later, I might
have whistled for my new engagement. Our breakfast over, and some
preliminary matters discussed, we hastened to the office.
“Is that letter ready, Mr. Wateley? Very good. Now, Sir, here are your
credentials; deliver that document on your arrival in Alexandria, to
which you are booked through, viâ Marseilles: call here to-morrow
morning at eight for your despatches, take this cheque, and don’t
bother me any more. Good morning!”
And the “Overland” vanished into the inner office--the door was shut,
and I _never_ saw him afterwards!
I suppose I must have stood transfixed for a few moments, for I caught
a juvenile clerk grinning at me like a fiend. Feeling, that if I
hesitated, I ran a chance of being recalled, and losing my new honours,
I ran off to Lombard Street with the cheque; and had the banker’s clerk
asked me if it were honestly come by, I believe I should have answered
in the negative, being somewhat confused by the odd chain of events,
brought about during the last twenty-four hours.
As I hurried through Cheapside, on my return from the Bank, a hand was
laid on my shoulder, and a familiar voice inquired, “Where I was off
to so fast?” “To Cairo,” I replied, and was again making away, when
my friend politely insinuated that I was on the wrong tack, and ought
to have gone down Leadenhall Street. He was right, and in return for
his information, I consented to partake of some sherry and biscuit
at his counting-house hard by. Here I fell in with one or two others,
who, hearing of the turn my affairs had taken, insisted on my spending
a last evening in their company, and carried me off to a white-bait
dinner at Blackwall, from which we did not return until near midnight.
I was awakened early the next morning by one of my companions of the
dinner-party, who had made up his mind to see me as far as Paris. He
reminded me of what I had somehow or other totally forgotten, that
passports might _possibly_ be necessary, and in our hurry to secure
these troublesome documents, we overlooked other matters of equal or
even greater importance. I turned my back upon London with considerable
pleasure, finding that the anticipation of novelty and change of scene,
shut the door in the face of all the varied regrets and emotions which
had accompanied my former leave-takings. I felt myself cast once more
upon the world, to begin life as it were, over again among new scenes
and fresh faces, and although I could scarcely be said to have a very
distinct idea, either of my ultimate destination, or of the occupation
in store for me, I felt prepared to view all _en couleur de rose_, and
steer a straight-forward course through all difficulties.