SARTENE.
The route to Sartene from Tallano descends for some distance on the
Propriano route, and is not particularly interesting.
After passing the queer old Pisan bridge, however, it branches off to
the left, into a soft green shady road, faced by a handsome conical
mountain, and bordered by ilexes, cork-trees, and clustering flowers.
The rest of the way is a continual ascent until Sartene is reached.
Steep boulders, growing grander and more massive, and half covered with
a scarlet leek parasite that is positively dazzling in the brilliant
sunshine, rise on each side of the road, interspersed with ilex-trees,
myrtle, arbutus, and many shrubs, sometimes lying gently in a flat
grassy nook, like a garden rockery.
Near Sartene, the road grows terribly steep, winding for miles round
and round the hot interminable hill, on the side of which lies the
town, looking clean and superior. Blue sea peeped out behind us, and
snow mountains invited us in front, as we got out, and, remembering
that both good men and women are merciful to their beasts, toiled up
the steep ascent beside the carriage.
Antonio had the best of it; for, with his hat pushed well back from
his sunburnt face, he was consoling himself with a pipe for his long,
hot walk. Antonio never smoked whilst on the box; hence, the sight of
a steep hill had charms for him. In this respect, as in all others, he
was a pleasing contrast to the Bastia coachman, who puffed his vile
tobacco inside the carriage night and morning. Antonio appeared to
think he must only smoke on sufferance, and at first used to retire
behind the carriage whilst enjoying his uphill treat, directing the
horses by an occasional call, and hastily smothering his pipe in his
hand if spoken to.
Just before the entrance to the town, stood, close beside the road, an
enormous boulder of grey stone. On this had been placed, evidently by
nature, a smaller round one. On the top of this was reared a lofty iron
cross, eight or ten feet high, a dove flying from its summit, and, as
is always the case in Corsica, the crown of thorns, the ladder, spear,
hammer, and nails, even the sponge upon the stick, fastened to it.
At both entrances to the main street of every considerable village or
town in Corsica you invariably see this large cross, generally of wood,
and nearly always accompanied by these implements of the Crucifixion;
but that at Sartene, reared on its great grey rock, with the background
of blue mountains and green groves, was one of the most striking in the
island.
The Hotel de l'Univers, in the principal street, was quite a cheery
sight to way-worn travellers. It was no dirty little inn, with foul
smells and objectionable bedrooms; but a really airy, pleasant hotel,
situated in a rather stuffy street, but with dainty, well-furnished
bedrooms, and a large comfortable salle à manger. After Corte (and of
course excepting Ajaccio), it was the best hotel we had seen in the
island.
After a slight lunch we went out, and, strolling through the hot
glaring streets and up a steep dusty hill, found ourselves at the
picturesque little church of St. Amiens, built on a grassy level
half-way up, overlooking lovely views.
Attached to this church is a large, thick-walled monastery, in fashion
like a bastion; and, as we sat sketching on the grass before it, a
string of monks came slowly by, entering two and two through the narrow
door which opened into the monastery.
They were dressed in brown cassocks, with light-brown girdles and long
rosaries, brown cowls, and sandalled feet that were equally brown.
They walked along demurely enough, with their eyes cast upon the
ground, until they reached the narrow doorway; but, as they turned
to go in, each monk gave way to the sinful appetite of curiosity,
and glanced stealthily from under his shaggy eyebrows at the three
strangers. A lofty wooden cross stood on the green a few yards from the
church, and we were a little astonished to see that neither the brown
monks, nor the fat and homely sisters who afterwards passed on their
way to Vespers, saluted it in any way with signs of reverence.
These sisters, comfortable-looking old ladies, with broad smiling
faces, dressed all in black with enormous flapping white hats which
were probably useful, but certainly not ornamental, were sœurs de
charité, or nurses of the poor.
The pretty little church was dainty and pleasing within as without.
In honour of the month of Mary, a very grand Madonna, dressed as
usual in sky blue, and surrounded by an arch of silver tinsel and
white artificial roses, was placed in front of the altar for the
contemplation of the faithful. Many quiet simple souls came into the
cool, shady little building from the glare outside, to tell their
beads, and to sit for a few moments in quiet meditation before the
gaudy but sweet-faced figure; and among others two little girls, who,
after kneeling down for a minute or two, commenced whispering and
giggling audibly.
I made friends with these two little things, and presently they sat,
one on each side, holding my hands and looking up into my face with
the brightest and most eager of black eyes. Jaenne and Sophie, as they
informed me they were called, were in the middle class of life, and
were good French scholars.
They were on their return from school, and were awaiting the priest's
call to attend confession. The burden of their sins did not appear to
weigh very heavily upon these small reprobates, as they chatted away
to me with great friendliness, imparting to me their great desire to
travel and to visit England, and showing particular curiosity as to the
appearance and disposition of my mother.
"Isn't she _very_ unhappy," asked the handsome little Jaenne with the
gleaming eyes, "to think you are so far away from her?"
"My mother wouldn't let me go," said the small, freckled,
mischievous-looking Sophie; "not now at least. But I'll go some day,
when I'm big."
"It's very beautiful in England, isn't it?" asked Jaenne. "Much more
beautiful than Corsica? Is it very cold?"
"I should like to live in England," remarked Sophie, sagely, "because
_everybody_ is very rich there!"
Beyond the church, and down the road for some distance, lie pretty
scattered tombs surrounded by foliage, and reposing against wooded or
grassy hills, and beyond these a populous little cemetery.
After strolling in this direction, Nos. 2 and 3 returned to the town,
and went into the cathedral at one side of the Grande Place.
As we walked up the long flight of stone steps leading to it, a group
of children rushed after us, shouting and dancing, and pursuing us
round the interior of the church itself. Not much was to be seen there.
It was a gloomy, dusty-looking place, far inferior in attractions
to the graceful, well-kept little St. Amiens; but the Virgin's altar
stood out in magnificence of large blue and silver-spangled curtains,
surrounded by flowers, real and artificial.
Hastening down the steps again, we soon got rid of our tormentors,
and walked to the other end of the town to make a quick sketch of the
boulder cross.
During the two or three minutes that we stood there, a crowd of
forty children speedily collected, with the addition of one man and
two women. The smell of garlic was suffocating; but good breeding
prevailed, and a dead silence pervaded the interested group, one and
all bent upon a polite and stealthy peep over our shoulders. For this
purpose, a low wall behind was in great request, and one or two boys
got upon each other's shoulders to attain the desired end.
The excitement became intense, when, hearing a whisper of "Ah, Rosina,
ecco!" I looked down, and perceived a tiny, picturesque child with
round face surrounded by the usual bambino's white cap, from off which
had fallen a large straw hat, still hanging by its strings behind her
neck, and proceeded to sketch her.
"She's drawing Rosina! she's drawing Rosina!" became the cry; and the
sudden rush of the juveniles compelled me to close my sketch-book, and
make good my escape, escorted by an excited, but friendly crowd, to
the Hotel de l'Univers, where table d'hôte was just over, but where a
modest little dinner of nine courses had been kept hot for our benefit.