THE FAUBOURG ST. GERMAIN

The distinguishing characteristics of the residents of the "noble

Faubourg," as it was called at the time I am speaking of, were

indomitable pride and exclusiveness, with a narrow-minded ignorance of

all beyond the circle in which its members moved. In our day of

comparative equality and general civility, no one who has not arrived

at my age, and lived in Paris, can form any idea of the insolence and

hauteur of the higher classes of society in 1815. The glance of

unutterable disdain which the painted old duchesse of the Restoration

cast upon the youthful belles of the Chausse d'Antin, or the handsome

widows of Napoleon's army of heroes, defies description. Although often

responded to by a sarcastic sneer at the antediluvian charms of the

emigree, yet the look of contempt and disgust often sank deep into the

victim's heart, leaving there germs which showed themselves fifteen

years later in the revolution of 1830. In those days, this privileged

class was surrounded by a charmed circle, which no one could by any

means break through. Neither personal attractions nor mental

qualifications formed a passport into that exclusive society; to enter

which the small nobility of the provinces, or the nouveau riche, sighed

in vain. It would have been easier for a young Guardsman to make his

way into the Convent des Oiseaux--the fashionable convent in

Paris--than for any of these parvenus to force an entrance into the

Faubourg St. Germain.

One of the first acts which followed the Restoration of the Bourbons

was the grant of a pecuniary indemnity, amounting to a milliard, or

forty millions sterling, to be distributed amongst the emigres who had

lost fortunes or estates by their devotion to the royal family. They

had now, therefore, the means of receiving their friends, political

partisans, and foreigners, with more than usual splendour; and it must

be admitted that those who were thought worthy to be received were

treated like spoiled children, and petted and flattered to their

heart's content. In their own houses they were really des grands

seigneurs, and quite incapable of treating their invited guests with

the insolence that became the fashion among the Jewish parvenus during

the reign of the "citizen king." It is one thing to disdain those whom

one does not think worthy of our acquaintance, and another to insult

those whom one has thought proper to invite.

In their own houses, the inhabitants of the Faubourg St. Germain were

scrupulously polite: even if some enterprising foreigner should have

got in surreptitiously, as long as he was under his host's roof he was

treated with perfect courtesy; though ignominiously "cut" for the

remainder of his days. All this was not very amiable; but the

inhabitants of the "noble Faubourg" were never distinguished for their

amiability. Their best characteristics were the undaunted courage with

which they met death upon the scaffold, and the cheerfulness and

resignation with which they ate the bitter bread of exile. In general,

les grandes dames were not remarkable for their personal attractions,

nor for the elegance of their appearance or dress. The galaxy of

handsome women that formed the court of the Emperor had perhaps sent

beauty somewhat out of fashion; for the high-born ladies who took their

place were what we should call dowdy, and had nothing distinguished in

their appearance. Many of those who belonged to the most ancient

families were almost vulgar in outward form and feature: their manner

had a peculiar off-hand, easy style; and they particularly excelled in

setting down any unlucky person who had happened to offend them. Their

main object, at this time, was to stand well at court, therefore they

adapted themselves to circumstances, and could be devout with the

Dauphine and sceptical with Louis the Eighteenth.

The men of the aristocracy of the Revolution were less clever and

satirical than the women; but, on the other hand, they had far more of

the distinguished bearing and graceful urbanity of the grands seigneurs

of the olden time. The emigre nobles would have gazed with unutterable

horror at their degenerate descendants of the present day; but these

young, booted, bearded, cigar-smoking scions of la jeune France would

have run round their courteous, but, perhaps, rather slow ancestors, in

all the details of daily life.

The principal houses of reception in those days were those of the

Montmorencys, the Richelieus, Birons, Rohans, Goutaut Talleyrands,

Beauffremonts, Luxemburgs, Crillons, Choiseuls, Chabots, Fitzjames,

Grammonts, Latours de Pin, Coislins, and Maillys. Most of these

mansions are now occupied as public offices, or Jesuitical schools, or

by foreign Ministers. Those who are now supposed to be the great people

of the Faubourg St. Germain are nothing more than actors, who put on a

motley dress and appear before the public with the view of attracting

that attention to which they are not entitled; it is, therefore, an

error to suppose that the modern faubourg is anything like what it was

during the days of the Bourbons. At the present moment the only

practical aid the inhabitants of this locality can accord to the

legitimist cause in Europe, is by getting up subscriptions for the

Papacy, and such exiled Sovereigns as Francis II.; and, in order to do

so, they generally address themselves to married women and widows: in

fact, it is from the purses of susceptible females, many of whom are

English, that donations are obtained for legitimacy and Popery in

distress.

It is to be regretted that the most renowned and ancient families of

France have, in society and politics, yielded their places to another

class. That refinement of perception, sensitiveness, and gentle

bearing, which take three or four generations to produce, are no longer

the characteristics of Parisian society. The gilded saloons of the

Tuileries, and those magnificent hotels whose architects have not been

geniuses of art, but the children of Mammon, are occupied by the Jew

speculator, the political parasite, the clever schemer, and those

who--whilst following the fortune of the great man who rules

France--are nothing better than harpies. Most of these pretended

devotees of imperialism have, speaking figuratively, their portmanteaus

perpetually packed, ready for flight. The Emperor's good nature, as

regards his entourage, has never allowed him to get rid of men who,

perhaps, ought not to be seen so near the Imperial throne of France.

The weakest feature of Napoleon III.'s Government is the conspicuous

presence of a few persons in high places, whose cupidity is so

extravagant that, in order to gratify their lust of wealth, they would

not hesitate, indirectly at least, to risk a slur on the reputation of

their master and benefactor, in order to gain their own ends.

Reminiscences of Captain Gronow · 第 56 / 94 题