CHAPTER II.

ETNA.

(_a._) _Structure of the Mountain._--Etna, unlike Vesuvius, has ever

been a burning mountain; hence it was well known as such to classic

writers before the Christian era. The structure and features of this

magnificent mountain have been abundantly illustrated by Elie de

Beaumont,[1] Daubeny,[2] Baron von Waltershausen,[3] and Lyell,[4] of

whose writings I shall freely avail myself in the following account, not

having had the advantage of a personal examination of this region.

_Structure of Etna._--So large is Etna that it would enclose within its

ample skirts several cones of the size of Vesuvius. It rises to a height

of nearly 11,000 feet above the waters of the Mediterranean,[5] and is

planted on a floor consisting of stratified marine volcanic matter, with

clays, sands, and limestones of newer Pliocene age. Its base is nearly

circular, and has a circumference of 87 English miles. In ascending its

flanks we pass successively over three well-defined physical zones: the

lowest, or fertile zone, comprising the tract around the skirts of the

mountain up to a level of about 2500 feet, being well cultivated and

covered by dwellings surrounded by olive groves, fields, vineyards, and

fruit-trees; the second, or forest zone, extending to a level of about

6270 feet, clothed with chestnut, oak, beech, and cork trees, giving

place to pines; and the third, extending to the summit and called "the

desert region," a waste of black lava and scoriae with mighty crags and

precipices, terminating in a snow-clad tableland, from which rises the

central cone, 1100 feet high, emitting continually steam and sulphurous

vapours, and in the course of almost every century sending forth streams

of molten lava.

The forest zone is remarkable for the great number of minor craters

which rise up from the midst of the foliage, and are themselves clothed

with trees. Sartorius von Waltershausen has laid down on his map of Etna

about 200 of these cones and craters, some of which, like those of

Auvergne, have been broken down on one side. Many of these volcanoes of

second or third magnitude lie outside the forest zone, both above and

below it; such as the double hill of Monti Rossi, near Nicolosi, formed

in 1659, which is 450 feet in height, and two miles in circumference at

its base. Sir C. Lyell observes that these minor crater-cones present us

with one of the most delightful and characteristic scenes in Europe.

They occur of every variety of height and size, and are arranged in

picturesque groups. However uniform they may appear when seen from the

sea or the plains below, nothing can be more diversified than their

shape when we look from above into their ruptured craters. The cones

situated in the higher parts of the forest zone are chiefly clothed with

lofty pines; while those at a lower elevation are adorned with

chestnuts, oaks, and beech trees. These cones have from time to time

been buried amidst fresh lava-streams descending from the great crater,

and thus often become obliterated.

[Illustration: Fig. 10.--Ideal Section through Etna. (After Lyell.)--A.

Axis of present cone of eruption; B. Axis of extinct cone of eruption;

_a._ Older lavas, chiefly trachytic; _b._ Newer lavas, erupted (with

_a_) before origin of the Val del Bove; _c._ Scoria and lava of recent

age; T. Tertiary strata forming the foundation to the volcanic rocks.

The position of the Val del Bove before its formation is shown by the

lightly-shaded portion above B.]

(_b._) _Val del Bove._--The most wonderful feature of Mount Etna is the

celebrated Val del Bove (Valle del Bue), of which S. von Waltershausen

has furnished a very beautiful plate[6]--a vast amphitheatre hewn out of

the eastern flank of the mountain, just below the snow-mantled platform.

It is a physical feature somewhat after the fashion of Monte Somma in

Vesuvius, but exceeds it in magnitude as Etna exceeds Vesuvius. The Val

del Bove is about five miles in diameter, bounded throughout

three-fourths of its circumference by precipitous walls of ashes,

scoriae, and lava, traversed by innumerable dykes, and rising inwards to

a height of between 3000 and 4000 feet. Towards the east the cliffs

gradually fall to a height of about 500 feet, and at this side the vast

chasm opens out upon the slope of the mountain. At the head of the Val

del Bove rises the platform, surmounted by the great cone and crater. It

will thus be seen that by means of this hollow we have access almost to

the very heart of the mountain.

What is very remarkable about the structure of this valley is that the

beds exhibit "the _qua-qua_ versal dip"--in other words, they dip away

on all sides from the centre--which has led to the conclusion that in

the centre is a focus of eruption which had become closed up

antecedently to the formation of the valley itself. Lyell has explained

this point very clearly by showing that this focus had ceased to eject

matter at some distant period, and that the existing crater at the

summit of the mountain had poured out its lavas over those of the

extinct orifice. This was prior to the formation of the Val del Bove

itself; and the question remains for consideration how this vast natural

amphitheatre came to be hollowed out; for its structure shows

unquestionably that it owes its form to some process of excavation.

In the first place, it is certainly not the work of running water, as in

the case of the canyons of Colorado; the porous matter of which the

mountain is formed is quite incapable of originating and supporting a

stream of sufficient volume to excavate and carry away such enormous

masses of matter within the period required for the purpose. We must

therefore have recourse to some other agency. Numerous illustrations are

to be found of the explosive action of volcanoes in blowing off either

the summits of mountains, or portions of their sides. For example, there

is reason for believing that the first result of the renewed energy of

Vesuvius was to blow into the air the upper surface of the mountain.

Again, so late as 1822, during a violent earthquake in Java, a country

which has been repeatedly devastated by earthquakes and volcanic

eruptions, the mountain of Galongoon, which was covered by a dense

forest, and situated in a fertile and thickly-peopled region, and had

never within the period of tradition been in activity, was thus ruptured

by internal forces. In the month of July 1822, after a terrible

earthquake, an explosion was heard, and immense columns of boiling

water, mixed with mud and stones, were projected from the mountain like

a water-spout, and in falling filled up the valleys, and covered the

country with a thick deposit for many miles, burying villages and their

inhabitants. During a subsequent eruption great blocks of basalt were

thrown to a distance of seven miles; the result of all being that an

enormous semicircular gulf was formed between the summit and the plain,

bounded by steep cliffs, and bearing considerable resemblance to the Val

del Bove. Other examples of the power of volcanic explosions might be

cited; but the above are sufficient to show that great hollows may thus

be formed either on the summits or flanks of volcanic mountains. Chasms

may also be formed by the falling in of the solidified crust, owing to

the extrusion of molten matter from some neighbouring vent of eruption;

and it is conceivable that by one or other of these processes the vast

chasm of the Val del Bove on the flanks of Etna may have been produced.

(_c._) _The Physical History of Etna._--The physical history of Etna

seems to be somewhat as follows:--

_First Stage._--Somewhere towards the close of the Tertiary

period--perhaps early Pliocene or late Miocene--a vent of eruption

opened on the floor of the Mediterranean Sea, from which sheets of lava

were poured forth, and ashes mingled with clays and sands, brought down

from the neighbouring lands, were strewn over the sea-bed. During a

pause in volcanic activity, beds of limestone with marine shells were

deposited.

_Second Stage._--This sea-bed was gradually upraised into the air, while

fresh sheets of lava and other _ejecta_ were accumulated round the vents

of eruption, of which there were two principal ones--the older under the

present Val del Bove, the newer under the summit of the principal cone.

Thus was the mountain gradually piled up.

_Third Stage._--The vent under the Val del Bove ceased to extrude more

matter, and became extinct. Meanwhile the second vent continued active,

and, piling up more and more matter round the central crater, surmounted

the former vent, and covered its _ejecta_ with newer sheets of lava,

ashes, and lapilli, while numerous smaller vents, scattered all over the

sides of the mountain, gave rise to smaller cones and craters.

_Fourth Stage._--This stage is signalised by the formation of the Val

del Bove through some grand explosion, or series of explosions, by which

this vast chasm was opened in the side of the mountain, as already

explained.

_Fifth Stage._--This represents the present condition of the mountain,

whose height above the sea is due, not only to accumulation of volcanic

materials round the central cone, but to elevation of the whole island,

as evinced by numerous raised beaches of gravel and sand, containing

shells and other forms of marine species now living in the waters of the

Mediterranean.[7] Since then the condition and form of the mountain has

remained very much the same, varied only by the results of occasional

eruptions.

(_d._) _Dissimilarity in the Constitution of the Lavas of Etna and

Vesuvius._--Before leaving the subject we have been considering, it is

necessary that I should mention one remarkable fact connected with the

origin of the lavas of Etna and Vesuvius respectively; I refer to their

essential differences in mineral composition. It might at first sight

have been supposed that the lavas of these two volcanic

mountains--situated at such a short distance from each other, and

evidently along the same line of fracture in the crust--would be of the

same general composition; but such is not the case. In the lava of

Vesuvius leucite is an essential, and perhaps the most abundant mineral.

It is called by Zirkel _Sanidin-Leucitgestein_. (See Plate IV.) But in

that of Etna this mineral is (as far as I am aware) altogether absent.

We have fortunately abundant means of comparison, as the lavas of these

two mountains have been submitted to close examination by petrologists.

In the case of the Vesuvian lavas, an elaborate series of chemical

analyses and microscopical observations have been made by the Rev.

Professor Haughton, of Dublin University, and the author,[8] from

specimens collected by Professor Guiscardi from the lava-flows extending

from 1631 to 1868, in every one of which leucite occurs, generally as

the most abundant mineral, always as an essential constituent. On the

other hand, the composition of the lavas of Etna, determined by

Professor A. von Lasaulx, from specimens taken from the oldest

(voraetnaeischen) sheets of lava down to those of the present day,

indicates a rock of remarkable uniformity of composition, in which the

components are plagioclase felspar, augite, olivine, magnetite, and

sometimes apatite; but of leucite we have no trace.[9] In fact, the

lavas of Etna are very much the same in composition as the ordinary

basalts of the British Isles, while those of Vesuvius are of a different

type. This seems to suggest an origin of the two sets of lavas from a

different deep-seated magma; the presence of leucite in such large

quantity requiring a magma in which soda is in excess, as compared with

that from which the lavas of Etna have been derived.[10]

[1] _Memoires pour Servir_, etc., vol. ii.

[2] Daubeny, _Volcanoes_, p. 270.

[3] Von Waltershausen, _Der Aetna_, edited by A. von Lasaulx.

[4] Lyell, _Principles of Geology_, vol. ii., edition 1872.

[5] Its height, as determined by Captain Smyth in 1875

trigonometrically, was 10,874 feet, and afterwards by Sir J. Herschel

barometrically, 10,872 feet.

[6] _Atlas des Aetna_ (Weimar, 1858), in which the different lava-streams

of 1688, 1802, 1809, 1811, 1819, 1824, and 1838 are delineated.

[7] Sir William Hamilton observes that history is silent regarding the

first eruptions of Etna. It was in activity before the Trojan War, and

even before the arrival of the "Sizilien" settlers. Diodorus and

Thucydides notice the earliest recorded eruptions, those from 772 to 388

B.C., during which time the mountain was thrice in eruption. Later

eruptions took place in the year 140, 135, 125, 122 B.C. In the year 44

B.C., in the reign of Julius Caesar, there was a very violent outburst of

volcanic activity.--_Neuere Beobachtungen ueber die Vulkane Italiens und

am Rhein_, p. 173, Frankfurt (1784).

[8] "Report on the Chemical and Mineralogical Characters of the Lavas of

Vesuvius from 1631 to 1868," _Transactions of the Royal Irish Academy_,

vol. xxvi. (1876). In the lava of 1848 leucite was found to reach 44.9

per cent. of the whole mass. In that of Granatello, 1631, it reaches its

lowest proportion--viz., 3.37 per cent.

[9] A. von Lasaulx, in Von Waltershausen's _Der Aetna_, Book II., x. 423.

[10] The view of Professor Judd, that leucite easily changes into

felspar, and that some ancient igneous rocks which now contain felspar

were originally leucitic, does not seem to be borne out by the above

facts. In such cases the felspar crystals ought to retain the forms of

leucite. See _Volcanoes_, 4th edition, p. 268.

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