THROUGH THE COLONY TO THE COAST.
Departure from Bultfontein--Philippolis--Ostrich-breeding--My
first lecture--Fossils--A perilous crossing--The Zulu war--Mode
of dealing with natives--Grahamstown--Arrival at Port
Elizabeth--My baggage in danger--Last days in Cape Town--Summary
of my collections--Return to Europe.
Besides being delayed in Cradock, I was compelled by various
circumstances to spend a considerable time in Port Elizabeth, so that
altogether my homeward journey was somewhat prolonged.
[Illustration: BELLA.]
Shortly after leaving Bultfontein I had to cross the Modder River, the
passage being attended with much difficulty. The river-bed is full of
deep holes containing numerous fish, and the entire valley is really
a channel worn by the rain in the soft soil, the steep slopes on
either side being clothed with trees and bushes that are the habitat of
countless birds. The prettiest part of the stream is at its junction
with the Riet River. As implied by its name (Modder or Mud River) many
places on its bank are extremely miry, and so trying are these spots to
bullocks, wearied by their long journeys, that not unfrequently they
sink down and are unable to rise again.
I just touched at Jacobsdal, which I found much increased since my
visit in 1872, and then went on towards the little town of Philippolis.
On my way I passed the Riet River hotel. The old iron and canvas
erection had been replaced by a substantial stone building, and I was
quite astonished when the landlord recollected me, asking me whether
I had not been there six years before with Mr. Michaelis and Mr.
Rabinowitz.
While staying at Kalke Farm I found a good many oolitic fossils, which
increased in number as I went southwards. The bare, monotonous aspect
of the country made me aware that the district I was approaching had
been suffering from prolonged drought; it might literally be said to be
scorched up, not a single green blade of grass was to be seen, and one
uniform shade of brown overspread the soil and rocks alike.
Through the courtesy of many of the residents, my stay in Philippolis
was extremely pleasant. I made several excursions in company with Dr.
Knobel and Dr. Igel, and obtained some additions to my collection.
Amongst other things I secured some live birds, and a full-grown
springbuck doe. Mr. Schultze, a merchant, made me a present of a
beautiful quartz druse, which I had noticed in his drawing-room in
1872, but had not then the means of purchasing. The postmaster, Mr.
Försterlein, also gave me a very interesting object, a talisman that
had been given him by a Basuto doctor in acknowledgment of some
service; it was a tablet of black wood about an inch and a half long,
half as wide, and about a third of an inch thick, in which was set
a piece of rock crystal. Some Basutos to whom Mr. Försterlein had
happened to show it were anxious to buy it, one of them offering two
cows in exchange.
After leaving Philippolis, I was for a few days Mr. Schultze’s guest at
his farm at Ottersport, where for the first time I had an opportunity
of seeing tame ostriches. Now that the feather trade is on the decline,
it is less expensive to keep the birds in this way than to hunt them
wild; and they are bred in such numbers in South Africa, particularly
in Cape Colony and the Free State, that in 1879 there were at least
100,000 of them. Directly it is out of the shell an ostrich chick
is worth 5_l._, a half-grown bird varies from 20_l._ to 50_l._, and
as much as 150_l._ has been paid for brooding-hens. Ostriches are
generally bred in the localities where sheep and cattle-breeding has
proved unremunerative.
The greatest difficulty that the ostrich farmer has to contend with
is the parasite plague. From five to twenty-five per cent. of the
birds each year die from being infested by tape-worms, which swarm in
thousands and eat their way into the body; a great number of them are
likewise attacked by palisade worms, occasionally a yard long, that
gnaw into the muscles of the heart. Not unfrequently the parasites
take possession of the eggs before the shell is formed; and from an
English newspaper that I recently received from the Cape I learnt that
some ostriches’ eggs had been found quite full of worms.
Having crossed the river at Mr. Ross’s ford, I arrived at Colesberg.
Here I had so hospitable a reception, that I did not like to refuse the
request made by a number of my friends that I would deliver a lecture.
It was the first that I had ever attempted, but the result was so
satisfactory that I ventured to plead in this way for the opening up of
Central Africa from the south in some of the other towns of the colony.
In company with Mr. Knobel I paid a visit to the Colesberg hill. It is
equally interesting to the botanist, the geologist, and the zoologist.
The number of mountain-hares, rock-rabbits, birds of prey, starlings,
pigeons, snakes, lizards, spiders, and other insects that I saw more
than repaid the exertion of the clamber.
Hence my next stage was towards Cradock, not however by the shortest
route, because of the parched state of the district, but _viâ_
Middleburg, so as to find better fodder for the bullocks. The first
destination on the route was Kuilfontein, Mr. Murray’s farm, where Mr.
Knobel told me he had seen some fossilized animal remains in a wall.
I obtained permission of the owner to take as much of the wall down
as I wanted, and found some fine pieces of the skeletons of saurians
embedded in hard sandstone; they belonged principally to the dicynodon
and to the lacertan and crocodilian species; besides these I discovered
a fossil plant in the grey sandstone overlying the dicynodon strata
that are common in the eastern province of the colony. I stayed over a
week at the farm, and so pleasant was my entertainment, and so full of
interest my fossil investigations that I should have been delighted to
avail myself of the hospitable invitation to remain longer, but I knew
that in consequence of the drought Mr. Murray was at a great expense
in buying food for part of his cattle, and in sending the other part
off to a distance where some grass survived, and I would not permit
myself to encroach upon his kindness longer than I could help. My
host, during the time I was with him, took me for several excursions
around Kuilfontein, and I found strata of clay-slate containing small
mollusks, as well as traces of huge lizards, probably dicynodons. The
only game that I saw was springbucks, bustards, grunters, partridges,
wild pigeons, and wild ducks. On the farm itself I secured three of
the herons that are nearly tame, and build every year on the pastures
beside the springs.
The continuation of the extreme drought made the latter stages of my
journey to Cradock very arduous. At Newport Farm I found some pretty
fossils, including some impressions of lizards. Here, again, I had a
hearty welcome, and was sorry not to be able to accept an invitation to
join a party that was being arranged for gazelle-hunting and fishing.
The Newport Farm scenery is the best in the Middleburg district, and I
look forward to making good use of a photographic apparatus on a future
visit.
My intention had originally been to stay only a few days in Cradock to
recruit my bullocks, all of which were now very weary, a few of them
having succumbed to insufficient food. But, as I have said, I found
myself detained by a different cause, and I had to apply myself to my
old profession to recover various losses that I had sustained. I have
a most grateful remembrance of the kindness I received from many of
the resident families, and their cordiality did much to alleviate the
temporary difficulties by which I was harassed.
Before I finally made up my mind to settle for a few months in the
town, I remained quartered in my waggon about half a mile further up
the opposite bank of the Fish River. I soon had about twenty patients,
and had to ride into Cradock several times a day. My horse Mosco did me
good service, although on one occasion he very nearly came to grief.
[Illustration: NARROW ESCAPE NEAR CRADOCK.]
There were two rain-channels that had to be crossed before arriving
at the bridge; these were more than three feet deep, and I was told
that after a very few hours’ rain they were filled with the water that
rushed down from the slopes of the hills, amid a cluster of which the
town is situated. After fourteen months’ drought, when I had been in
my retreat about six weeks, there came a succession of wet days; the
consequence was that both channels were quickly filled with muddy
water, in one stream nearly red, in the other nearly yellow. One
morning at this time I was summoned to the town, but patients in such
numbers had come to consult me at my waggon that I could not set out
until the afternoon. The Fish River roared at my side, but I kept on my
way, and crossed the first of the little affluents in safety; but on
arriving at the second I found a group of nearly thirty people brought
to a standstill on its bank. They were for the most part laundresses,
who had gone out in the morning as usual to the sulphurous springs, a
mile or two further up the river, but on their return had found their
progress arrested by the sudden rising of the flood. I was greatly
tempted to turn my horse’s head round, and if I could have believed
that the case was of trifling importance, I should unhesitatingly
have gone back; but the account of the symptoms that the messenger had
brought inclined me to suspect that the case was serious, and I felt
that I ought to persevere if possible. The torrent seethed in front of
me; the red turbid stream was certainly thirty feet wide, and its depth
had increased to quite four feet. Not far below was a hollow, some ten
feet in depth, and into this the waters plunged in an angry cataract. I
relied, however, with all confidence upon my horse, and urged him into
the stream. Very few steps had he taken before I felt him tremble, but
at a word of encouragement from me he went forwards again. In order
to avoid the cataract, I thought it best to guide him a little to the
right, but unfortunately the stream proved to be violent beyond all
expectation. Mosco stumbled, but happily his head and mine remained
above water; by a vigorous effort he recovered himself, and after a
fatiguing struggle was nearing the opposite side, when again he missed
his footing, and came down upon his knees. I momentarily expected to be
rolled into the torrent, but had the presence of mind to give my horse
his head; one dash, and he fixed his forefeet into the soft clay of the
shore; an instant’s pause, and with a desperate bound he carried me
safe to _terra firma_.
It was during the time of my residence in Cradock that the Zulu war,
the most important event that has occurred in South Africa for the last
quarter of a century, was going on. For the advancement of civilization
that war was a necessity, and it must not be supposed either that it
was a mere arbitrary proceeding on the part of Sir Bartle Frere, or
that the British Government had no valid reason for taking up arms.
It was, I am convinced, the wisest step that Sir Bartle Frere, as a
statesman, could have taken; he foresaw the danger that threatened the
colony from Zululand; he was perfectly aware of Cetewayo’s warlike
preparations; and he knew, moreover, that all the force that had been
collected was eager for a conflict with the whites. The colonists in
Natal, and the residents in the south-east of the Transvaal, had been
perpetually complaining of the encroachments which the Zulus made,
whilst for the last ten years numbers of the Zulus themselves had been
taking refuge in both these districts from the cruelty and oppression
of the king and the indunas.
If the English Government had not taken the initiative, the whole
horde of Zulus, bloodthirsty as hounds, would have overrun Natal, and
probably 20,000 lives or more would have been sacrificed. Cetewayo had
long made up his mind what he would do; his scheme might cost him many
lives, but hundreds and thousands of lives were of little account to
him considering the numerical strength of his tribe as compared with
all others; it sufficed for him to rely on the courage and daring of
his warriors, and thus he was encouraged to indulge his one great
vision of becoming master of Natal. Had his venture proved successful,
the first terrible result of the victory achieved by him would have
been a general rising of the adjacent tribes in revolt against the
white men.
I know indeed that there are many men both in South Africa and in
England who regard the Zulu war as a great act of injustice, but I can
only express my conviction that the opinion they form is founded upon
a complete misunderstanding of the character of the natives as a whole,
and of the Zulus in particular; I can only believe of them that they
have never been in contact with natives, so as to become aware of the
bare-faced line of action they pursue; and generally I should presume
of them that in the view they take they are blinded by the prejudice
that every negro is a poor oppressed creature, ever ill-used, abused,
and trampled on.
In England, after my return, I had several opportunities of talking
over this matter with various influential people, and found that
whenever I expressed my belief that there was a happy future in store
for the natives of South Africa, my anticipations were uniformly
regarded with extreme surprise. The general impression seemed to be
that the black man was becoming extinct as the result of oppression,
and that the outbreak of the Zulu war was only an additional proof of
this. That there has hitherto been a failure in the relations between
white men and coloured in so many places is, I conceive, attributable
to the entire misapprehension of the character and position of the
native; either he has been treated as a being scarcely endued with
human qualities at all, or, by the opposite extreme, he has been
encouraged to regard himself as in every respect the equal of his
master. To give a negro the rights of civilization, and to entitle him
to enjoy its privileges before training him to use them aright, is
only like treating a child as though he were a full-grown man, and the
result has been to make him presume upon his alleged equality to take
up arms against his superiors. Other things that have been very fatal
to the establishment of a proper relationship are the introduction of
alcoholic liquors, the spread of contagious diseases, and the want of
integrity on the part of those commissioned by the government to open
traffic with the natives, and who have only too often consulted their
own selfish interests without the least regard to the welfare of those
with whom they were sent to deal. On this latter point, however, as
far as South Africa is concerned, there is not much to be said; the
veracity of the reports made by the commissioners can be easily put
to the test, and the slightest abuse of power is quickly visited by
chastisement. In the previous chapter I have attempted to show that the
authorities are now in a fair way of understanding the best mode of
dealing with the natives. With respect to the sale of spirits, we find,
incredible as we might have imagined it, that it has been prohibited by
several native princes, and that some of the colonial governments have,
if not forbidden, at least limited the traffic with the independent
tribes.
With so warlike a people as the Zulus, a settlement of the question
of their relations with the colonists could not possibly be arrived
at without an appeal to arms; and it has to be remembered that it was
a question as important to South Africa as “the Eastern Question” to
many of the European powers. My long residence amongst many of the
tribes, and especially my peculiar sphere of work, gave me repeated
opportunities of seeing them in different aspects, and of considering
their relations not only with each other, but with the English and
Dutch colonists, and it was mainly on this account that I ventured to
publish my pamphlet and other articles.
I am quite aware that this is hardly the place to enter into any full
details concerning the Zulu war, of which the general history is
universally known, but I cannot forbear making one or two observations.
The disaster that befell the British force at the commencement of
the campaign was, I think, to be attributed first, to the mistake of
supposing that the Zulu method of attack would be the same as that of
the Kaffirs; secondly, to the circumstance that the numbers of the
Zulu warriors had been so much underrated that an insufficient English
force was brought into the field against them; not that Sir Bartle
Frere was in any way responsible for this, as he had already asked for
reinforcements; and thirdly, that there had not been diligence enough
exercised in reconnoitring the country. But if the defeat brought
its indignity, it was soon obliterated by the victory that ensued,
when general, officers, and men, regained their laurels in contending
with the most martial of African people upon the most unfavourable of
soils. It was the victory of Ulundi, not any achievements of Sir Garnet
Wolseley, that was the crowning-point of the campaign, and I cannot but
consider that it was premature on the part of the English Government to
supersede Sir Bartle Frere, and to recall Lord Chelmsford, before the
war was actually at an end. The consequence has been that the treaty
made with the Zulus has not been of a character to ensure a permanent
peace with the native element in South Africa.
The truth of my convictions seems to me to be borne out by the recent
rising of the Basutos against the Cape Government with respect to
disarmament. Had peace been concluded with the Zulus in strict
accordance with the general feeling that rules in the colonies, the
Basutos would never have ventured upon rebellion; but the leniency
of the policy pursued by the Government towards the Zulu chiefs was
regarded by the other native tribes not in any way as a generous
forbearance, but as an indication of weakness.
The object of disarmament, which undoubtedly in some instances has
answered very well, is twofold; its first design is to bring about
peace in South Africa; its second to secure a permanent satisfactory
solution of the entire native question. By purchasing fire-arms of the
people and refusing to sell them any, it is thought that tribes warlike
by hereditary character, and tribes that have been rendered warlike by
the acquisition of guns, may be converted into peaceful husbandmen and
cattle-breeders; the process should be gradual, but the main object
being once attained, it might then be safe for the Government to issue
gun-licences to any individuals who should require them for hunting
purposes.
On my way back to Europe I happened to fall in with Lord Chelmsford
and his staff; at my first interview with him he thanked me for the
candour with which I had expressed my opinions during the war. He was
accompanied by Sir Evelyn Wood, whose personal bravery has won for him
a high renown in the British army. This distinguished officer was not
a little surprised when I showed him some telegrams demonstrating
that I had been in direct communication with Natal all throughout the
campaign; one of these contained the announcement of his own victory
over the Zulus at Kambula.
I can safely say that since my return to Europe my regard for South
Africa has in no degree diminished, in spite of the calumnies published
in one of the South African newspapers by Westbeech and Anderson,
although they, as well as the newspaper itself, applauded all that I
said while I was out there. It was gratifying to find that the most
influential of the papers had all reviewed my proceedings with strict
impartiality. I shall always take a deep interest in the progress
of the colony, and cannot do otherwise than entertain a pleasant
recollection of the kindness I received from both English and Dutch
colonists.
Before the war was over I had earned the means I required for
continuing my journey, and accordingly I proceeded towards Port
Elizabeth. On reaching Grahamstown I took up my quarters in a house in
Bathurst Street, where there was a yard large enough to allow my horse
and most of my live-stock to run about. My brief visit was rendered
very enjoyable by the courtesy of many of the principal residents. I
obtained some interesting natural curiosities, including a live lynx
from Dean Williams, and some trilobites from Mr. Glanville, the curator
of the museum. I also made several additions to my collection of
minerals, and procured a number of exotics from the Botanical Gardens.
Of the live birds that I secured, three-fourths died on the day that
I went on to Port Elizabeth; an icy rain began to fall, and as we
had some miles to travel by road to the nearest[4] station many of my
animals, in spite of my care, succumbed to the inclement weather.
[Illustration: MAIN STREET IN PORT ELIZABETH.]
I arrived at Port Elizabeth in the evening of the same day that I left
Grahamstown. It was a great pleasure to me to see the sea again, and
throughout the six weeks that I stayed there I rarely allowed a day to
pass without riding out to Cape Recif, or to the mouth of the Zwartkop
river or even farther, to make collections upon the shore. I gave
several lectures in the town, for one of which I received 60_l._
from the Chamber of Commerce. Much kindness was shown me by the
editors of the _Eastern Telegraph_ and the _Eastern Herald_,
and several residents took a warm interest in my scientific pursuits.
Mr. Holland pointed out to me, at several places on the coast, piles of
bones and shells, the remains of the meals of the ancient inhabitants;
but as my attention was only drawn to them shortly before my departure,
I had not time to ascertain whether they had been accumulated by the
Bushmen; if not, I should be inclined to suppose they must be the
relics of some extinct tribe.
[Illustration: FINGO VILLAGE AT PORT ELIZABETH.
_Page 469._]
The twenty-one packages that I had sent on to Port Elizabeth a year ago
were all in good condition. Those that I had now brought with me raised
the number to forty-seven; and two more, subsequently added at Cape
Town, made a total of forty-nine to be conveyed to Europe.
My intention was to take all my collection from Port Elizabeth to Cape
Town by the Union Steamship Company’s “Arab,” and after staying at Cape
Town for a fortnight to proceed homewards in the “German.” Accordingly,
after seeing all my baggage carefully stowed on board the little cutter
that acted as tender to the “Arab”--that lay at anchor about half a
mile out--I went back into the town to pay some farewell visits. My
consternation may in a measure be imagined when returning a few hours
afterwards, I found all my cases piled up promiscuously on the beach.
The rope by which the tender was being towed through the surf had
broken, and the vessel had been washed back to the shore, but not until
she had begun to fill with water.
The great wonder was that the craft had not been dashed against the
wooden landing-stage; I could not be too thankful that the collision
had been averted; it would have brought all my labours of the last four
years to a deplorable end. I had proposed bringing my good horse Mosco
with me, and was much disappointed that circumstances prevented me from
including him with my general baggage.
As the “Arab” was bound to leave that day, and it was too late for
me to get my property conveyed on board, I consented to go without
it, leaving it in charge of Herr von Mosenthal, the newly-appointed
Austrian Consul, who most kindly undertook to have it forwarded to Cape
Town.
The same cordial reception awaited me at Cape Town as I had found at
Port Elizabeth, and I delivered several lectures, one of them before
the Philosophical Society, which, a year before, had elected me one
of their corresponding members. It was here that I had the honour of
an introduction to Sir Bartle Frere and several of the members of his
staff; I also made the acquaintance of many of the most distinguished
members of both houses of the Cape Parliament, and of the leading
scientific men and newspaper editors of the place. All alike entered
warmly into my plans for the exploration of Central South Africa, and
for the opening up of the great continent from the south. The very day
that I left Cape Town Mr. Brown did me the honour of bringing forward a
motion (which, at the desire of the Government, was only withdrawn on
account of my departure) that my services should be secured for making
an investigation of the district between the Vaal and the Zambesi.
I passed most of my time on the sea-shore, still adding to my
collection of fishes and sponges. Algoa Bay supplied me with numbers
of cephalopods, mollusks, sea-snails, aphrodites, and algæ; the
surrounding neighbourhood with a considerable variety of plants and
fossils.
Before finally quitting Cape Town I received a gift of 40_l._,
which was very acceptable, as I had again been compelled to spend part
of the money that I had reserved for my passage.
It was on the 5th of August, 1879, that I embarked on board the
“German.” After an absence of seven years, I had been drawn homewards
by an irresistible desire to see my kindred and friends. Green Point
and the summit of Table Mountain faded from my view, and I was again
upon the bosom of the ocean that on my outward voyage had so nearly
cost me my life, but which now lay calm and placid till I set my foot
safely once more on the soil of Europe.
I would not omit to express my obligation to the Directors of the Union
Steamship Company, who franked my baggage all the way from Cape Town to
Southampton, nor would I fail to acknowledge the kindness of the Hon.
Mr. Littleton, the son of Lord Hatherton, who placed 100_l._ at my
disposal, which materially assisted me in forwarding my collection to
Vienna.
My ethnological specimens collected from about thirty[5] tribes of
South Africa, and those of my natural history collections amounted
to more than 30,000; of these a selection of nearly 12,500[6] was
made, and by the permission of the Board of Trade was exhibited in the
Pavillon des Amateurs in Vienna. The exhibition was open from May to
October, 1880.
Of the live animals that I brought with me, I gave the caracal, the two
brown eagles, and a secretary-bird to the London Zoological Society,
and the rest I took to Austria. I have already mentioned that the Crown
Prince Rudolph did me the honour to accept the two royal cranes. My
baboon, which was remarkably tame, and a grey South African crane I
sent to the town council of Prague for the public park, and I presented
the dark-brown vulture, and one of the long-armed Zanzibar monkeys to
the Physiocratical Society of that city.
I stayed several weeks in London, and contributed a paper to the Royal
Geographical Society. Many kindnesses were shown me by various English
families, and I very gratefully acknowledge the assistance I received
in the transmission of my large collection to my home.
If my life and health be preserved, I have it in my heart to return
as soon as may be to the scene of my researches. In the first place,
I am anxious to make a more accurate survey of the places that I have
already visited; but more than all, I am longing to extend to Central
Africa those investigations for which “seven years in South Africa”
have given me so much experience.
[Illustration]
INDEX.
Acacias, i. 78.
Accidents, i. 3, 116, 129, 208; ii. 274.
Albert Country, ii. 194, 211.
Algoa Bay, i. 11.
Algæ, ii. 185, 195.
Aloes, i. 410.
Alumba tribe, ii. 173.
Amulets, i. 332; ii. 327.
Anthills, i. 127, 313.
Assegai-traps, i. 35; ii. 51.
Assegais, ii. 338.
Baboons, i. 74, 82, 85, 244; ii. 199.
Baharutse, ii. 22.
Bakuenas, i. 310, 316, 321; ii. 103.
_Balearia regulorum_, i. 148.
Bamangwato district, i. 364.
Bamangwatos, i. 370;
their history, i. 376, _seqq._
Banquaketse district, i. 304.
Baobab, ii. 53, 97.
Barolongs, i. 246, 269, 282, 294.
Barotse Valley, ii. 145.
Barwas, i. 345.
Basutos, i. 83, 214; ii. 143.
Batlapins, i. 119, 125; ii. 11.
Batlokas, i. 411.
Batokas, ii. 199.
Beads, ii. 351.
Bechuanas, i. 102, 315, 327, 392; ii. 15.
Bee-hunt, i. 22.
Beetles, i. 161, 278; ii. 261, 360.
Beltong, i. 188.
Birds, varieties of, i. 105, 190; ii. 98.
Blessbocks, i. 146, 156; ii. 10.
Blignaut’s Pont, ii. 4.
Bloemhof, i. 143.
Bluewilde beest, i. 107.
Boers, i. 33, 43, 59; ii. 48.
Bogueras, i. 398; ii. 420.
Buffaloes, ii. 89, 246, 361, 364, 367.
Buisport, i. 413; ii. 25.
Bultfontein, i. 64; ii. 3, 431.
Bushbocks, i. 27.
Bushmen, ii. 435.
Bustards, i. 48, 267.
Canoes, ii. 119, 125.
Cape Town, i. 4, 7, 9; ii. 465.
Celestial phenomenon, ii. 363.
Cetewayo, i. 9; ii. 458.
Chelmsford (Lord), ii. 461, 462.
Chenalopex, i. 137, 275.
Chobe River, ii. 108, 121, 358.
Christiana, i. 141, 202; ii. 5, 428.
Chuai Jungmann, i. 276.
Chukuru, i. 417.
Chwene-Chwene, i. 411; ii. 423.
Cobras, i. 113, 234; ii. 440.
Coffeefontein, i. 49.
Colesberg, i. 38; ii. 453.
Conflagration, i. 223; ii. 155.
Cradock, i. 30; ii. 455.
Crane (S. African grey), i. 42, 183; ii. 9;
(royal or crowned) i. 148; ii. 10.
Crocodiles, i. 408; ii. 32, 234.
Cucumber, i. 364.
Damara Emigrants, i. 25, 33.
Dances, reed, i. 295;
kishi, ii. 168;
prophetic, ii. 170, 229;
lion, ii. 254;
boat, ii. 260;
nuptial, ii. 262;
Matabele war-dance, ii. 405.
Darters, i. 180; ii. 125, 245.
Deykah River, ii. 99.
Diamond fields, i. 50, 58, 65, 426; ii. 430.
Dolos, i. 330, 350.
Dornveldt, i. 409.
Doves, i. 47.
Drought, i. 135, 222; ii. 44, 64, 97.
Drums, ii. 123, 171.
Dutch hunters, i. 389; ii. 96.
Dutoitspan, i. 51, 63, 209, 420.
Duykerbocks, i. 99.
Dwars Mountains, i. 412; ii. 25.
Earth-pigs, ii. 439.
Elands, ii. 49.
Elephants, i. 27; ii. 90, 92, 97, 107, 212.
Elephant-hunt, ii. 241.
Elephant-hunters, ii. 20, 82, 85, 123.
Euphorbias, i. 17.
Executioner (Mashoku), ii. 148, 226, 320.
Fan-palms, ii. 50.
Fauresmith, i. 43.
Fig-marigolds, i. 16.
Fish, i. 317, 405; ii. 30, 139.
Fishing, ii. 224, 288.
Fish River, i. 37; ii. 456.
Fossils, i. 19; ii. 454.
Francis Joseph Valley, i. 365; ii. 416.
Francolin (S. African), i. 402.
Frere (Sir Bartle), i. 6, 9; ii. 457, 465.
Funnel chasms, i. 169.
Gashuma Flat, ii. 105, 178, 183, 216, 373.
Gassibone, i. 132.
Giraffes, i. 343, 356.
Gnus, i. 107, 157, 188, 200, 271.
Gold-diggings, ii. 399.
Gong Gong, i. 108.
Gourd-shells, ii. 117, 335.
Grahamstown, i. 30; ii. 463.
Graves, ii. 6, 118, 218, 237, 315.
Griqualand West, ii. 445.
Griquas, i. 96.
Grottoes, i. 173; ii. 45.
Guinea-fowl, i. 159; ii. 30.
Hallwater Farm, i. 192; ii. 5, 428.
Hartebeest, i. 227; ii. 63.
Harts River, i. 110; ii. 6, 428.
Heaths, i. 18.
Hebron, i. 62, 94, 125, 205.
Henry’s Pan, ii. 96.
Hippopotamus, ii. 128, 219.
Honey, i. 363; ii. 107.
Hoogeveldt, i. 421.
Horse whims, i. 68.
Huts, Koranna, i. 97, 102;
Gassibone’s, i. 134;
Barolong, i. 294;
Bakuena, i. 316;
Masarwa, i. 347;
Bamangwato, i. 391;
Masupia, ii. 121;
Marutse, ii. 163.
Hyæna-dogs, i. 302.
Hyænas, i. 145, 255; ii. 29, 77.
Iguanas, i. 139.
Illness, i. 3, 357, 410; ii. 190, 270, 278 _seqq._, 285, 358.
Impalera, ii. 109, 121, 124, 358.
Ivory-traders, ii. 43, 84, 99, 177, 376.
Jackals, ii. 67, 73, 382.
Jacobsdal, i. 50; ii. 451.
Joubert’s Lake, ii. 425.
Kapella, ii. 138, 148, 238, 365, 373.
Karri-Karri Saltpan, ii. 55.
Kashteja River, ii. 133, 257.
Khamane, i. 385.
Khame, king of Bamangwatos, i. 335, 369, 377; ii. 35;
his prohibition of sale of brandy, ii. 42, 374, 376, 418;
farewell visit from, ii. 421.
Khame’s Saltpan, i. 403; ii. 44, 421.
Khari, i. 377.
Khatsisive, king of Banquaketse, i. 291, 305.
Kimberley, i. 60, 67.
King-finch (_Vidua Capensis_), i. 178.
Kiri, i. 109; ii. 341.
Klamaklenyana springs, ii. 80.
Klerksdorp, i. 162.
Klipdrift, i. 101.
Kobuque Pass, i. 311.
Konana, i. 261.
Koodoo antelopes, ii. 68.
Kopjes, i. 64.
Korannas, i. 84, 96; ii. 5.
Kotlas, i. 318, 374, 394.
Lanyon (Major), ii. 446.
Leopard, ii. 413.
Leshumo Valley, ii. 178, 216, 358.
Letshwe antelopes, ii. 128, 244.
Libanani, ii. 380.
Libeko, ii. 140.
Likatlong, i. 118.
Limpopo River, i. 408; ii. 31, 421.
Linokana, i. 416; ii. 22, 424.
Linyakas, ii. 330, 395.
Lions, i. 192, 262; ii. 27, 65, 69, 76, 90, 100, 179, 200, 249,
367, 407, 423, 433.
Litta or Lytta, i. 285; ii. 261.
Livingstone (Dr.), i. 314; ii. 103, 135.
Lizards, i. 392.
Lo Bengula, ii. 410.
Locusts, i. 75, 134, 199, 252.
London Geographical Society, ii. 468.
_Lycaon pictus_, i. 301.
Lydenburg, i. 423.
Lynx, i. 309.
Madenassanas, ii. 82.
Mahura’s Town (Taung), i. 120.
Makalakas, ii. 31, 41, 44;
Menon’s, ii. 145, 383, 389.
Makalahari, i. 258, 364; ii. 11.
Makalolos, i. 379; ii. 143.
Makumba, ii. 107, 123.
Malau’s Heights, i. 286.
Malays, i. 7.
Malmani River, ii. 19.
Mambari, ii. 150, 293.
Manansas, ii. 106, 204.
Mankoë, ii. 237.
Mapani-tree, ii. 48.
Maquassie River, i. 150;
hills, i. 192.
Maque plain, ii. 47.
Maritsana River, ii. 11.
Markets, i. 72; ii. 22.
Marutse-Mabundas, history, ii. 143–146;
culture, ii. 158;
cleanliness, ii. 233;
character, ii. 294;
religion, ii. 300;
manners and customs, ii. 302 _seqq._;
industry and handicraft, ii. 332, _seqq._
Masarwas, i. 345.
Mashukulumbe, ii. 258.
Masupa, i. 304.
Masupias, ii. 112.
Matabele Zulus, i. 380; ii. 59, 115, 205, 400.
Matebe River, ii. 24.
Matliutse River, ii. 396.
Matonga, i. 270.
Matsheng, i. 380; ii. 420.
Maytengue River, ii. 383.
Medical practice, i. 13, 45, 53, 92, 210, 424; ii. 425, 431.
Menagerie, ii. 431, 434.
_Meliera Canorus_, i. 239.
Menon, ii. 385.
Mimosas, i. 277, 288, 404.
Missionaries: Brown, i. 238;
Webb, i. 280; ii. 13;
Price, i. 315;
Williams, i. 315;
Hephrun, i. 373;
Mackenzie, i. 373; ii. 41, 417, 423, 424;
Jensen, i. 417; ii. 22, 424.
Modder River, i. 46; ii. 451.
Moffat’s Salt Lake, ii. 11.
Moilo, i. 417; ii. 424.
Molapo River, i. 278; ii. 18.
Molema, i. 279; ii. 13.
Molema’s Town, i. 279; ii. 12.
Moloi, i. 334.
Molopolole, i. 310, 313.
Monkeys, i. 138; ii. 32.
Monomotapa, i. 196.
Montsua, i. 280, 291; ii. 12, 17.
Mooi River, i. 165.
Moquai, Sepopo’s daughter, ii. 144, 159, 219, 261, 281.
Morula-trees, ii. 391.
Moselikatze, i. 380; ii. 205, 392, 401.
Moshaneng, i. 294.
Moshungulu-tree, ii. 111, 270.
Mosquitoes, ii. 286, 359.
Mountain groups, i. 293.
Mulekow, ii. 114, 207, 298.
Musemanyana, i. 251.
Mutshila Aumsinga rapids, ii. 273.
Myrimbas, ii. 137.
Nata River, ii. 64, 382.
Native question, views on, ii. 440.
Nautilus, i. 15.
Nectariniæ (sun-birds), i. 29.
New Year’s Day, i. 354.
Night watch, ii. 26, 65, 86.
Notuany River, i. 408; ii. 24, 39, 431.
Oates, Frank, ii. 396.
Orange Free State, i. 59.
Orange River, i. 39.
Orbeki gazelles, ii. 105, 183.
Ostriches, ii. 49, 79, 81, 375, 453.
Otters, i. 177; ii. 120.
Pallah Antelopes, i. 409; ii. 200.
Panda ma Tenka, ii. 99, 180, 374.
Parrots, i. 286.
Philippolis, i. 39; ii. 452.
Plat Berg, i. 205; ii. 3.
Pniel, i. 94.
Port Elizabeth, i. 12; ii. 464.
Potchefstroom, i. 164, 422.
Puff-adder (_Vipera arietans_), i. 406; ii. 40, 94.
Puku antelopes, ii. 128.
Quagga Flats, i. 251, 254; ii. 8, 427.
Quaggas, ii. 71.
Races of South Africa, i. 213.
Rain doctors, i. 330;
their ceremonies, i. 337.
Rapids, ii. 272.
Reed-rats, i. 187.
Rhamakoban River, ii. 398.
Rhyzœna, i. 76, 143; ii. 67.
Rietbocks, i. 177.
Riet River, i. 46;
hotel on, i. 49; ii. 452.
Rock-rabbits, i. 305.
Rohlf’s Pass, i. 412.
Ruins, ii. 397, 406.
Salt, i. 198.
Saltpans, i. 76, 197, 276, 403; ii. 53, 72.
Sandy pool plateau, ii. 78.
Schneemann’s Pan, ii. 106, 372.
Schweinfurth’s Pass, i. 412; ii. 25.
_Scopus umbretta_, i. 112.
Sechele, king of Bakuenas; history, i. 314;
visit to, i. 319;
policy, i. 382; ii. 30;
war with Bakhatlas, ii. 422.
Sekeletu, ii. 143.
Sekhomo, late king of Bamangwatos, i. 335, 368, 376, 389; ii. 42.
Sepopo, king of Marutse-Mabundas; change of residence, ii. 134;
appearance, ii. 137;
supper with, ii. 141;
dominions, ii. 147;
pilfering propensities, ii. 149;
interviews with, ii. 150, 174;
mode of chastisement, ii. 157, 245;
revenue, ii. 160;
residence, ii. 165;
laboratory, ii. 167;
band, ii. 137, 168;
wives, ii. 221, 231, 268;
cruelty, ii. 225, 329;
officials, ii. 238;
council, ii. 240;
magic, ii. 241;
unpopularity, ii. 284, 370;
meals, ii. 287;
illness, ii. 291;
medicine-hut, ii. 328.
Sesheke, ii. 133, 140, 154, 282.
Sesuto language, ii. 147, 216.
Shaneng River, ii. 56.
Shasha Rivers, ii. 397.
Sheat-fish, ii. 30, 231.
Shoshon River, i. 364, 367.
Shoshong, i. 367; ii. 42.
Sirorume River, i. 405.
Skerms, ii. 190.
Skins, i. 152; ii. 342.
Snakes, i. 20, 79, 113, 234, 356, 406; ii. 94, 440.
Soa Saltpan, ii. 57.
Springbockfontein, i. 130.
Springbocks, i. 31, 254; ii. 11.
Spitzkopf, i. 126.
Steinbocks, i. 99; ii. 67.
Storks, ii. 70.
Storm, i. 272; ii. 367.
Sugar-cane, i. 127.
Swallows, i. 164.
Table Mountain, i. 2.
Tamafopa Springs, ii. 86.
Tamasanka, ii. 380.
Tamasetze, ii. 93, 376.
Tati River, ii. 399.
Taung, i. 120, 235.
Tortoises, i. 105.
Transvaal, ii. 419, 426.
Tsetse fly, ii. 105, 183, 374.
Tsitane Saltpan, ii. 53.
Usnea, i. 25.
Vaal River, i. 61, 94, 219.
Vaalstone, i. 62, 205.
Vegetation on Chobe River, ii. 111.
Victoria Falls, ii. 191, _seqq._
Vlakvarks, ii. 375.
Wana Wena, ii. 319.
Warren (Colonel), ii. 446.
Waterbock, ii. 31.
Weaver-birds, i. 78, 122, 284.
Weltufrede Farm, ii. 20.
Wild dog, i. 301.
Wild goose, i. 137, 275.
Wood (Sir Evelyn), ii. 462.
Yochoms, i. 258.
Yoruah Pool, ii. 86, 379.
Zambesi River, ii. 99, 108, 121, 125, 266.
Zebras, ii. 71, 74, 88.
Zeerust, i. 420; ii. 22.
Zizka saddle, ii. 19.
Zooga River, ii. 58.
Zoological Society of London, ii. 376.
Zulus (Matabele), i. 380; ii. 59, 205.
Zulu War, ii. 457.
Zuur Mountains, i. 24.
Zwartkop River, i. 14; ii. 464.
THE END.
LONDON:
GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS,
ST. JOHN’S SQUARE.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] Boers of this kind are not to be confounded with the more
cultivated portion of the Dutch community in South Africa.
[2] It is well to bring this before the notice of any traveller in the
district who may have native servants with him. I would advise every
one to make definite preliminary inquiries as to whether the shores of
the Nata may be traversed without danger.
[3] This peculiarity may perhaps be physiologically accounted for by
the small weight of the brain as contrasted with the ponderous size of
the body.
[4] The railway is now open as far as Grahamstown.
[5] These tribes include Bushmen, Hottentots, Fingos, Gaikas, Galekas,
Pondos, the southern Zulus, the northern Zulus (Matabele), Basutos, the
various Bechuana tribes (Batlapins, Barolongs, Banquaketse, Makhosi,
Manupi, Baharutse, Bakhatlas, Bakuenas, Bamangwatos), the northern
and southern Makalakas, Mashonas, Manansas, Matongas, Masupias,
Marutse-Mabundas, and Mankoë.
[6] Besides about 40 skulls, 134 pairs of antlers, and 70 anatomical
or pathological curiosities, the exhibition contained 400 bird-skins,
a fine group of 57 ostrich feathers, nearly 300 reptiles, 2056 insects
(out of 18,000 collected and purchased), 782 mollusks, 933 of the
lower orders of marine animals, 3328 dried plants, 1138 fossils, and
720 minerals. The number of small animals would have been larger, but
many were spoilt by the bad quality of the spirits of wine. The insects
for the most part were pinned out and arranged by Dr. Nickerle, of
Prague. Except sixty-four, which were given me, I collected the 3328
plants myself; I also found the 1138 fossils, except about sixty, which
were given to me by Dr. Reed in Colesberg, Mr. Murray in Kuilfontein,
Mr. Kidger in Cradock, and Mr. Cook in Port Elizabeth. There were 365
sponges from Table and Algoa Bays.
Transcriber’s Notes:
1. Obvious printers’, punctuation and spelling errors have been
corrected silently.
2. Some hyphenated and non-hyphenated versions of the same words have
been retained as in the original.
3. Italics are shown as _xxx_.