[Illustration:
_Vol. II._ _Frontispiece_.]
SEVEN YEARS IN SOUTH AFRICA:
TRAVELS, RESEARCHES, AND HUNTING ADVENTURES,
BETWEEN THE DIAMOND-FIELDS AND THE ZAMBESI (1872–79).
BY
DR. EMIL HOLUB.
_TRANSLATED BY ELLEN E. FREWER._
WITH ABOUT TWO HUNDRED ORIGINAL ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON,
CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET.
1881.
[_All rights reserved._]
LONDON:
GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS,
ST. JOHN’S SQUARE.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
FROM THE DIAMOND FIELDS TO THE MOLAPO.
PAGE
Departure from Dutoitspan--Crossing the Vaal--Graves in
the Harts River valley--Mamusa--Wild-goose shooting
on Moffat’s Salt Lake--A royal crane’s nest--Molema’s
Town--Barolong weddings--A lawsuit--Cold weather--The
Malmani valley--Weltufrede farm 1
CHAPTER II.
FROM JACOBSDAL TO SHOSHONG.
Zeerust--Arrival at Linokana--Harvest-produce--The
lion-ford on the Marico--Silurus-fishing--Crocodiles in the
Limpopo--Damara-emigrants--A narrow escape--The Banks of
the Notuany--The Puff-adder valley 21
CHAPTER III.
FROM SHOSHONG TO THE GREAT SALT LAKES.
Khame and Sekhomo--Signs of erosion in the bed
of the Luala--The Maque plains--Frost--Wild
ostriches--Eland-antelopes--The first palms--Assegai
traps--The district of the Great Salt Lakes--The
Tsitane and Karri-Karri salt-pans--The Shaneng--The
Soa salt-pan--Troublesome visitors--Salt in the
Nataspruit--Chase of a Zulu hartebeest--Animal life on the
Nataspruit--Waiting for a lion 42
CHAPTER IV.
FROM THE NATASPRUIT TO TAMASETZE.
Saltbeds in the Nataspruit--Poisoning
jackals--A good shot--An alarm--The sandy
pool-plateau--Ostriches--Travelling by torchlight--Meeting
with elephant-hunters--The Madenassanas--Madenassana
manners and customs--The Yoruah pool and the Tamafopa
springs--Animal-life in the forest by night--Pit’s
slumbers--An unsuccessful lion’s-hunt--Watch for
elephants--Tamasetze 70
CHAPTER V.
FROM TAMASETZE TO THE CHOBE.
Henry’s Pan--Hardships of elephant-hunting--Elephants’
holes--Arrival in the Panda ma Tenka valley--Mr.
Westbeech’s depôt--South African lions--Their mode
of attack--Blockley--Schneeman’s Pan--Wild honey--The
Leshumo valley--Trees damaged by elephants--On
the bank of the Chobe 95
CHAPTER VI.
IN THE VALLEYS OF THE CHOBE AND THE ZAMBESI.
Vegetation in the valley of the Chobe--Notification
of my arrival--Scenery by the rapids--A party of
Masupias--My mulekow--Matabele raids upon Sekeletu’s
territory--Gourd-shells--Masupia graves--Animal life on the
Chobe--Masupia huts--Englishmen in Impalera--Makumba--My
first boat-journey on the Zambesi--Animal life in the
reed-thickets--Blockley’s kraal--Hippopotamuses--Old Sesheke 110
CHAPTER VII.
FIRST VISIT TO THE MARUTSE KINGDOM.
My reception by Sepopo--The libeko--Sepopo’s pilfering
propensities--The royal residence--History of the
Marutse-Mabunda empire--The various tribes and their
districts--Position of the vassal tribes--The Sesuto
language--Discovery of a culprit--Portuguese traders
at Sepopo’s court--Arrangements for exploring the
country--Construction of New Sesheke--Fire in Old
Sesheke--Culture of the tribes of the Marutse-Mabunda
kingdom--Their superstition--Rule of succession--Resources
of the sovereign--Style of building--The royal
courtyard--Musical instruments--War-drums--The kishi
dance--Return to Impalera and Panda ma Tenka--A lion
adventure 136
CHAPTER VIII.
TRIP TO THE VICTORIA FALLS.
Return to Panda ma Tenka--Theunissen’s desertion--Departure
for the falls--Orbeki-gazelles--Animal and vegetable life
in the fresh-water pools--Difficult travelling--First
sight of the falls--Our skerms--Characteristics of
the falls--Their size and splendour--Islands in the
river-bed--Columns of vapour--Roar of the water--The
Zambesi below the falls--The formation of the
rocks--_Rencontre_ with baboons--A lion-hunt--The
Manansas--Their history and character--Their manners and
customs--Disposal of the dead--Ornaments and costume--The
Albert country--Back again 180
CHAPTER IX.
SECOND VISIT TO THE MARUTSE KINGDOM.
Departure for Impalera--A Masupia funeral--Sepopo’s
wives--Travelling plans--Flora and fauna of the
Sesheke woods--Arrival of a caravan--A fishing
excursion--Mashoku, the king’s executioner--Massangu--The
prophetic dance--Visit from the queens--Blacksmith’s
bellows--Crocodiles and crocodile-tackle--The
Mankoë--Constitution and officials of the Marutse
kingdom--A royal elephant-hunt--Excursion to the
woods--A buffalo-hunt--Chasing a lioness--The lion
dance--Mashukulumbe at Sepopo’s court--Moquai, the king’s
daughter--Marriage festivities 214
CHAPTER X.
UP THE ZAMBESI.
Departure from Sesheke--The queens’ squadron--First
night’s camp--Symptoms of fever--Agricultural advantages
of the Zambesi valley--Rapids and cataracts of the
Central Zambesi--The Mutshila-Aumsinga rapids--A
catastrophe--Encampment near Sioma--A conspiracy--Lions
around Sioma--My increasing illness 266
CHAPTER XI.
BACK AGAIN IN SESHEKE.
Visits of condolence--Unpopularity of
Sepopo--Mosquitoes--Goose hunting--Court ceremonial at
meals--Modes of fishing--Sepopo’s illness--Vassal tribes
of the Marutse empire--Characteristics of the Marutse
tribes--The future of the country 283
CHAPTER XII.
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE MARUTSE TRIBES.
Ideas of religion--Mode of living--Husbandry
and crops--Consumption and preparation of
food--Cleanliness--Costume--Position of the
women--Education of children--Marriages--Disposal
of the dead--Forms of greeting--Modes
of travelling--Administration of
justice--An execution--Knowledge of
medicine--Superstition--Charms--Human
Sacrifices--Clay and wooden
vessels--Calabashes--Basket-work--Weapons--Manufacture
of clothing--Tools--Oars--Pipes and
snuff-boxes--Ornaments--Toys, tools, and fly-flappers 300
CHAPTER XIII.
IN THE LESHUMO VALLEY.
Departure from Shesheke--Refractory boatmen--An
effectual remedy--Beetles in the Leshumo Valley--The
chief Moia--A phenomenon--A party of invalids--Sepopo’s
bailiffs--Kapella’s flight--A heavy storm--Discontent in
the Marutse kingdom--Departure for Panda ma Tenka 354
CHAPTER XIV.
THROUGH THE MAKALAKA AND WEST MATABELE COUNTRIES.
Start southwards--Vlakvarks--An adventurer--The Tamasanka
pools--The Libanani glade--Animal life on the
plateau--The Maytengue--An uneasy conscience--Menon
the Makalaka chief--A spy--Menon’s administration
of justice--Pilfering propensities and dirtiness
of the Makalakas--Morula trees--A Matabele warrior--An
angry encounter--Ruins on the Rocky Shasha--Scenery
on the Rhamakoban river--A deserted gold-ield--History
of the Matabele kingdom--More ruins--Lions
on the Tati--Westbeech and Lo Bengula--The
leopard in Pit Jacobs’ house--Journey continued 372
CHAPTER XV.
FROM SHOSHONG TO THE DIAMOND FIELDS.
Arrival at Shoshong--Z.’s chastisement--News from the
colony--Departure from Shoshong--Conflict between
the Bakhatlas and Bakuenas--Mochuri--A pair of
young lions--A visit from Eberwald--Medical practice
in Linokana--Joubert’s Lake--A series of salt-pans--Arrival
in Kimberley 418
CHAPTER XVI.
LAST VISIT TO THE DIAMOND FIELDS.
Resuming medical practice--My menagerie at
Bultfontein--Exhibition at Kimberley--Visit to Wessel’s
Farm--Bushmen’s carvings--Hunting hyænas and
earth-pigs--The native question in South Africa--War in
Cape Colony and Griqualand West--Major Lanyon and Colonel
Warren--Departure for the coast 432
CHAPTER XVII.
THROUGH THE COLONY TO THE COAST.
Departure from
Bultfontein--Philippolis--Ostrich-breeding--My first
lecture--Fossils--A perilous crossing--The Zulu war--Mode
of dealing with natives--Grahamstown--Arrival at Port
Elizabeth--My baggage in danger--Last days in Cape
Town--Summary of my collections--Return to Europe 454
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. II.
PAGE
Frontispiece.
Pond near Coetze’s Farm 4
Graves under the Camel-thorn Trees at Mamusa 6
Shooting Wild Geese at Moffat’s Salt Pan 9
Hunting among the Rocks at Molema 11
Baboon Rocks 14
On the Banks of the Matebe Rivulet 24
Crocodile in the Limpopo 32
Battle on the Heights of Bamangwato 43
Grottoes of the Luala 46
Troop of Ostriches 49
Masarwas chasing the Eland 50
Pursued by Matabele 52
The Soa Salt Lake 57
Hunting the Zulu Hartebeest 62
In the Tree 66
Startled by Lions 76
“Pit, are you asleep?” 91
Nocturnal Attack by Lion 102
Elephant Hunting 107
Elephants on the March 108
Boating on the Zambesi 110
Impalera 111
Removal to New Sesheke 122
Masupia Grave 127
On the Banks of the Chobe 129
Hippopotamus Hunting 132
Game Country near Blockley’s Kraal 133
In the Papyrus Thickets 136
Reception at Sepopo’s 137
Port of Sesheke 140
Musical Instruments of the Marutse 147
Kishi-Dance 169
Mask of a Kishi-Dancer 170
On the Shores of the Zambesi 176
A Troop of Giraffes surprised 184
Aquatic Life in a still Pool by the Zambesi 187
The Victoria Falls 194
The Lion expected 201
Encounter with a Tiger 213
Hunting the Spur-winged Goose 214
King Sepopo 220
The Prophetic Dance of the Masupias 229
Visit of the Queens 232
Chase of the Water-Antelope 249
Lion Hunt near Sesheke 253
Mashukulumbe at the Court of King Sepopo 258
Sepopo’s Doctor 264
A Mabunda. A Makololo 265
Mankoe 266
Types of Marutse 267
A Mambari. A Matonga 271
Ascending the Zambesi 274
My boat wrecked 276
Night Visit from Lions at Sioma 280
In the Manekango Rapids 281
Otter-shooting on the Chobe 283
Spearing Fish 290
Walk through Sesheke 292
A Masupia.--A Panda 297
Singular Rock 299
Drowning useless People 300
Sepopo’s Head Musician 302
Marutse-Mabunda Calabashes for Honey-mead and Corn 305
Bark Basket and Calabashes for holding Corn, used
by the Mabundas 308
Mabunda Ladle and Calabashes 311
Marutse-Mabunda Pipes 344
Pipes for smoking Dacha 345
Scene on the Zambesi Shores at Sesheke 351
Camp in the Leshumo Valley 354
Wana Wena, the new King of the Marutse 357
Ruins of Rocky Shasha 372
Boer’s Wife defending her Waggon against Kafirs 402
Masarwas Drinking 405
Lioness attacking Cattle on the Tati River 409
Leopard in Pit Jacobs’ House 415
Return to the Diamond Fields 418
Koranna Homestead near Mamusa 420
Mission House in Molopolole 424
Night Journey 430
Fingo Boy 432
My House in Bultfontein 434
Rock Inscriptions by Bushmen 438
Capture of an Earth-Pig 440
Colonel Warren 449
Bella 454
Narrow Escape near Cradock 460
Main Street in Port Elizabeth 468
Fingo Village at Port Elizabeth 469
SEVEN YEARS IN SOUTH AFRICA.
THIRD JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR.
CHAPTER I.
FROM THE DIAMOND FIELDS TO THE MOLAPO.
Departure from Dutoitspan--Crossing the Vaal--Graves in the
Harts River valley--Mamusa--Wild-goose shooting on Moffat’s Salt
Lake--A royal crane’s nest--Molema’s Town--Barolong weddings--A
lawsuit--Cold weather--The Malmani valley--Weltufrede farm.
[Illustration]
I was now standing on the threshold of my real design. After three
years spent upon the glowing soil of the dark continent, the scene
of the endurances and the renown of many an enthusiast, I had now
arrived at the time for putting into execution the scheme I had
projected. My feelings necessarily were of a very mingled character.
Was I sufficiently inured to the hardships that could not be separated
from the undertaking? Could I fairly indulge the hope of reaching the
goal for which I had so long forsaken home, kindred, and friends? The
experience of my two preliminary journeys made me venture to answer
both these questions without misgiving. I had certainly gained a
considerable insight into the nature of the country; I had learned the
character of the contingencies that might arise from the disposition of
the natives and their mode of dealing, and I had satisfied myself of
the necessity as well as the comfort of having trustworthy associates
on whom I could rely. Altogether I felt justified in commencing what
I designed to be really a journey of exploration. At the same time
I could not be otherwise than alive to the probability that some
unforeseen difficulty might arise which no human effort could surmount.
It was a conflict of hopes and fears, but the picture of the Atlantic
at Loanda seemed to unfold itself to my gaze, and its attraction was
irresistible; hitherto in my lesser enterprises I had been favoured
by fortune, and why should she now cease to smile? I felt that there
was everything to encourage me, and definitely resolved to face the
difficulties that an expedition into the interior of Africa cannot fail
to entail.
* * * * *
It was on the 2nd of March, 1875, that I left Dutoitspan. I went first
of all to a friend at Bultfontein, intending to stay with him until the
6th, and there to complete my preparations. Not alone was it my scheme
to explore Southern-Central Africa, but I hardly expected to return to
Cape Colony at all, consequently my arrangements on leaving this time
were rather more complicated than they had been on the two previous
occasions.
Quitting Bultfontein on the day proposed, I proceeded for eleven miles,
and made my first halt by the side of a sandy rain-pool, enclosed by
the rising ground that was visible from the diamond-fields. We slept
in the mimosa woods, through which the road to the Transvaal runs for
several miles, and the deep sand of which is so troublesome to vehicles.
On the 7th we passed the Rietvley and Keyle farms, around which we saw
a good many herds of springbocks in the meadow-lands.
The next day’s march took us by the farms at Rietfontein, and Pan
Place, and we made our night camp on Coetze’s land. Near these farms,
which lay at the foot of the considerable hill called the Plat Berg,
I secured some feathered game, amongst which was a partridge. To me
the most interesting spot in the day’s journey was a marshy place on
Coetze’s farm; it was a pond with a number of creeks and various little
islands, which were the habitat of water-fowl, particularly wild ducks,
moorhens, and divers. In the evening I called upon Mynheer Coetze, and
in the course of conversation mentioned his ponds with their numerous
birds. He surprised me somewhat by his reply. “Yes,” he said, “the
birds breed there, and we never disturb them; we allow strangers to
shoot them, but for our own part we like to see them flying about.” I
admired his sentiment, and wished that it was more shared by the Dutch
farmers in general.
The property was partially wooded, and extended both into Griqualand
West and into the Orange Free State. Amongst other game upon it, there
was a large herd of striped gnus.
[Illustration: POND NEAR COETZE’S FARM.]
On the next day but one we made the difficult passage of the Vaal at
Blignaut’s Pont. From the two river-banks I obtained some skins of
birds, and several varieties of leaf-beetles (_Platycorynus_).
At the ferry, on the shore by which we arrived, stood a medley of clay
huts, warped by the wind, and propped up on all sides, claiming to be
an hotel; on the further shores were a few Koranna huts, the occupiers
of which were the ferrymen. For taking us across the river they
demanded on behalf of their employer the sum of twenty-five shillings.
The rain had made the ground very heavy, and it was after a very
tedious ride that we reached Christiana, the little Transvaal town with
which the reader has been already made acquainted, and made our way to
Hallwater Farm (erroneously called Monomotapa), where we obtained a
supply of salt from the resident Korannas.
We next took a northerly course, and passed through Strengfontein, a
farm belonging to Mynheer Weber, lying to the east of the territory of
the independent Korannas. The country beyond was well pastured, and
contained several farmsteads; although it was claimed by the Korannas,
by Gassibone, by Mankuruane, and by the Transvaal government, it had no
real ruler. The woods afforded shelter for duykerbocks, hartebeests,
and both black and striped gnus, whilst the plains abounded with
springbocks, bustards, and many small birds.
After passing Dreifontein, a farm that had only a short time previously
been reduced to ashes by the natives from the surrounding heights, we
encamped on the Houmansvley, that lay a little further ahead. Near the
remains of the place were some huts, from which some Koranna women came
out, their intrusive behaviour being in marked contrast with that of
some Batlapins, who modestly retired into the background. Not far off
was a vley, or marshy pond, where I found some wild ducks, grey herons,
and long-eared swamp-owls (_Otus capensis_). Houmansvley was the
last of the farms we had to pass before we entered the territory of the
Korannas of Mamusa.
[Illustration: GRAVES UNDER THE CAMEL-THORN TREES AT MAMUSA.]
We reached the Harts River valley on the evening of the 15th. Before
getting to the river we had to traverse a slope overgrown with grass,
and in some places with acacias which must be a hundred years old, and
under the shadow of which were some Batlapin and Koranna graves, most
of them in a good state of preservation. The river-bed is very often
perfectly dry, but as the stream was very much swollen, the current
was too strong to allow us to cross without waiting for it to subside;
the district, however, was so attractive that it was by no means to
be regretted that we were temporarily delayed. The high plateau, with
its background of woods, projected like a tongue into the valley, and
opposite to us, about three-quarters of a mile to the right, rose the
Mamusa hills.
We visited Mamusa, encamping on its little river a short distance from
the merchants’ offices under the eastern slope of the hills. A few
years back it had been one of the most populous places representing the
Hottentot element in South Africa, but now it was abandoned to a few
of the descendants of the aged king Mashon and their servants. Some of
the people had carried off their herds to the pasture-lands; others had
left the place for good, to settle on the affluents of the Mokara and
the Konana, on the plains abounding in game that stretched northwards
towards the Molapo. This small Koranna principality is an enclave in
the southern Bechuana kingdoms, a circumstance which is not at all to
their advantage, as any mixture of the Hottentot and Bantu elements is
sure to result in the degeneration of the latter.
The merchants received me most kindly. One of them, Mr. Mergusson, was
a naturalist, and amused himself by taming wild birds. He showed me
several piles, at least three feet high, of the skins of antelopes,
gnus, and zebras, which he intended taking to Bloemhof for sale. He and
his brother had twice extended their business-journeys as far as Lake
Ngami.
While in the neighbourhood, I heard tidings of the two dishonest
servants that I had hired at Musemanyana, and who had decamped after
robbing me on my second journey.
Leaving Mamusa on the 17th, we had to mount the bushy highland, dotted
here and there with Koranna farmsteads, and in the evening reached
the southern end of the grassy quagga-flats. The soil was so much
sodden with rain, that in many places the plains were transformed
into marshes; on the drier parts light specks were visible, which on
nearer approach turned out to be springbock gazelles. On every side the
traveller was greeted by the melodious notes of the crowned crane, and
the birds, less shy here than elsewhere, allowed him to come in such
close proximity, that he could admire the beauty of their plumage. The
cackle of the spurred and Egyptian geese could be heard now in one spot
and now in another, and wild-ducks, either in rows or in pairs, hovered
above our heads.
Our next march afforded us good sport. It was rather laborious, but
our exertions were well rewarded, as amongst other booty, we secured
a silver heron, some plovers, and some snipes. I had our camp pitched
by the side of a broad salt-water lake, proposing to remain there
for several days, the surrounding animal-life promising not merely a
choice provision for our table, but some valuable acquisitions for my
collection.
[Illustration:
_Vol. II._ SHOOTING WILD GEESE AT MOFFAT’S SALT PAN
_Page 9._]
At daybreak next morning, I started off with Theunissen on a
hunting-excursion. There had been rain in the night, and the air was
somewhat cool, so that it was with a feeling of satisfaction that I
hailed the rising sun as its early beam darted down the vale and was
reflected in the water. On the opposite shore we noticed a flock of
that stateliest of waders, the flamingo, with its deep red plumage and
strong brown beak. Close beside them was a group of brown geese wading
towards us, and screeching as they came was a double file of grey
cranes, whilst a gathering of herons was keeping watch upon some rocks
that projected from the water. High above the lake could be heard the
melodious long-drawn note of the mahem, and amidst the numbers of the
larger birds that thronged the surface of the water was what seemed a
countless abundance of moorhens and ducks. I stood and gazed upon the
lively scene till I was quite absorbed. All at once a sharp whistle
from my companion recalled me to myself. I was immediately aware of
the approach of a flock of dark brown geese; though unwieldly, they
made a rapid flight, their heavy wings making a considerable whirr. A
shot from each of my barrels brought down two of the birds into the
reeds; the rest turned sharply off to the left, leaving Theunissen,
disappointed at not getting the shot he expected, to follow them
towards the plain to no purpose. Great was the commotion that my own
shots made amongst the denizens of the lake. Quickly rose the grey
cranes from the shallow water, scarce two feet deep, and made for the
shore where we were standing. In the excitement of their alarm, the
crowned cranes took to flight in exactly the opposite direction; the
flamingoes hurried hither and thither, apparently at a loss whether
to fly or to run, until one of them catching sight of me rose high
into the air, screeching wildly, and was followed by the entire train
soaring aloft till they looked no larger than crows; the black geese,
on the other hand, left the grass to take refuge in the water, and the
smaller birds forsook the reeds, as deeming the centre of the lake the
place of safety.
We were not long out. We returned to breakfast, and while we were
taking our meal we caught sight of a herd of blessbocks, numbering at
least 250 head, grazing in the depression of the hills on the opposite
shore. Breakfast, of course, was forgotten and left unfinished. Off we
started; the chase was long, but it was unattended with success. Our
toil, however, was not entirely without compensation, as on our return
we secured a fine grey crane. Pit likewise in the course of the day
shot several birds, and in the afternoon excited our interest by saying
that he had discovered the nest of a royal crane.
I went to the reedy pool to which he directed me, about a mile and a
half to the north of our place of encampment, and on a little islet
hardly more than seven feet square, sure enough was a hollow forming
the nest, which contained two long white eggs, each about the size of
my fist. I took the measurement of the nest, and found it as nearly as
possible thirty inches in diameter, and six inches deep.
[Illustration:
_Vol. II._ HUNTING AMONG THE ROCKS AT MOLEMA.
_Page 11._]
While I was resting one afternoon in a glen between the hills, I
noticed a repetition of what I had observed already in the course of
my second journey, namely, that springbocks, in going to drink, act as
pioneers for other game, and that blessbocks and gnus follow in their
wake, but only when it has been ascertained that all is safe.
To the lake by which we had been making our pleasant little stay, I
gave the name of Moffat’s Salt Lake. On the 23rd we left it, and after
quitting its shore, which, it may be mentioned, affords excellent
hiding-places for the _Canis mesomelas_, we had to pass several
deepish pools which seemed to abound with moorhens and divers. On
a wooded eminence, not far away from our starting-place, we came
across some Makalahari, who were cutting into strips the carcase of a
blessbock. On the same spot was a series of pitfalls, now partially
filled up with sand, but which had originally been made with no little
outlay of labour, being from thirty to fifty feet long, and from five
to six feet wide.
In the evening we passed a wood where a Batlapin hunting-party,
consisting of Mankuruane’s people, had made their camp. They commenced
at once to importune us for brandy, first in wheedling, and then in
threatening tones.
Game, which seemed to have been failing us for a day or two, became
on the 25th again very abundant. The bush was also thicker. A herd
of nearly 400 springbocks that were grazing not far ahead, precisely
across the grassy road, scampered off with great speed, but not before
Theunissen had had the good luck to bring down a full-grown doe. As
we entered upon the district of the Maritsana River, the bushveldt
continued to grow denser, and the country made a perceptible dip
to the north-west. Several rain-glens had to be crossed, and some
broad shallow valleys, luxuriantly overgrown, one of which I named
the Hartebeest Vale. In the afternoon we reached the deep valley of
the Maritsana. On the right hand slope stood a Barolong-Makalahari
village, the inhabitants of which were engaged in tending the flocks
belonging to Molema’s Town. The valley itself was in many parts very
bushy, and no doubt abounded in small game, whilst the small pools from
two feet to eight feet deep in the river-bed, here partaking of the
nature of a spruit, contained Orange River fish, lizards, and crabs;
two kinds of ducks were generally to be seen upon them.
As we passed through a mimosa wood on the morning after, we met two
Barolongs, who not only made me aware how near we had come to Molema’s
Town, but informed me that Montsua was there, having arrived to preside
over a trial in a poisoning case. I had not formed the intention of
going into the place, but the information made me resolve to deviate a
little from my route, that I might pay my respects to the king and his
brother Molema.
Descending the Lothlakane valley, where Montsua was anxious that his
heir should fix his residence, we reached the town on the 28th. The
Molapo was rather fuller than when I was here last, but we managed to
cross the rocky ford, and pitched our camp on the same spot that I had
chosen in 1873.
As soon as I heard that the judicial sitting had adjourned, I lost no
time in paying my personal respects to the Barolong authorities. I
found the king with Molema and several other chiefs at their midday
meal, some sitting on wooden stools and some upon the ground; but no
sooner were they made acquainted with my arrival, than they hastened
to show signs of unfeigned pleasure, making me shake hands with them
again and again. Montsua at once began to talk about the cures I had
effected at Moshaneng, and begged me to stay for at least a few days.
After spending a short time in Molema’s courtyard, we all adjourned to
the house of his son, which was fitted up in European style, and where
we had some coffee served in tin cups. Molema was upon the whole strong
and active, but he was still subject to fits of asthma, and requested
me to supply him with more medicine like that he had had before; and
so grateful was he for my services, that he gave me a couple of good
draught-oxen, one of which I exchanged with his son Matye for an
English saddle.
Molema is a thin, slight man of middle height, with a nose like a
hawk’s beak, which, in conjunction with a keen, restless eye, gives to
his whole countenance a peculiarly searching expression. At times he
is somewhat stern, but in a general way he is very indulgent to his
subjects, who submit implicitly to his authority; this was illustrated
in the issue of the cause over which Montsua was now visiting him to
preside. He is very considerate for his invalid wife, and, considering
his age, he is vigorous both in mind and body; although his sons and
the upper class residents of the town have adopted the European mode of
fitting up their houses, he persists in adhering to the native style of
architecture.
During our stay here, Mr. Webb had to perform the marriage service
for three couples; one of the bridegrooms had a remarkable name, the
English rendering of which would be “he lies in bed.” Singular names
of this character are by no means unusual among the Bechuana children,
any accidental circumstance connected with their parentage or birth
being seized upon to provide the personal designation for life. Taking
a stroll through the place late in the evening, I heard the sound of
hymns sung by four men and ten women, bringing the wedding observances
to a close.
[Illustration: BABOON ROCKS.]
Wandering about the town, I noticed that although the garments worn
were chiefly of European manufacture, the inhabitants very frequently
were dressed in skins either of the goat, the wild cat, the grey fox,
or the duyker gazelle. Boys generally had a sheepskin or goatskin
thrown across their shoulders, although occasionally the skin of a
young lion took its place; girls, besides their leather aprons, nearly
always covered themselves with an antelope-hide.
As far as I could learn, the disputes between the Transvaal government
and the Barolongs had in great measure subsided, owing to Montsua
having threatened, in consequence of the encroachments of the Boers, to
allow the English flag to be planted in his villages.
I have already referred to the trial which had brought Montsua to the
town, and in order that I may convey a fair idea of the way in which
Bechuana justice is administered, I will give a brief outline of the
whole transaction.
A Barolong, quite advanced in years, had set his affections upon a
fatherless girl of fifteen, living in the town; she peremptorily
refused to become his wife, and as he could not afford to buy her, he
devised a cunning stratagem to obtain her. He offered his hand to the
girl’s mother, who did not hesitate to accept him; by thus marrying
the mother, he secured the residence of the daughter in his own
quarters; the near intercourse, he hoped, would overcome her repugnance
to himself; but neither his appearance nor his conversation, mainly
relating to his wealth in cattle, had the least effect in altering her
disposition towards him. Accordingly, he resorted to the linyaka. Aware
of the pains that were being taken to force her into the marriage, the
girl carefully avoided every action that could be interpreted as a sign
of regard. As she was starting off to the fields one morning to her
usual work, her stepfather called her back, and if her own story were
true, the following conversation took place,--
“I know you hate me,” he said.
“E-he, e-he!” she assented.
“Well, well, so it must be!” he answered, but he stamped his staff with
rage upon the ground.
“Yes, so it must be,” replied she.
“But you must promise me,” he continued, “that you will not marry
another husband.”
“Na-ya,” she cried, bursting out laughing, “na-ya.”
“Then I’ll poison you,” he yelled.
The girl, according to her own account, was alarmed, and went and told
her mother and another woman who were working close by the river. They
tried to reassure her, telling her that her stepfather was only in
joke, but they did not allay her apprehensions.
That very evening, while she was taking her simple supper of
water-melon, he called her off and sent her on some message; when she
returned she finished her meal, but in the course of an hour or two she
was writhing in most violent agony. In the height of her sufferings,
she reminded her mother and the friends who gathered round her of
what had transpired in the morning. Her shrieks of pain grew louder
and louder, and when they were silenced, she was unconscious. Before
midnight she was a corpse.
The stepfather was of course marked out as the murderer; the evidence
to be produced against him seemed incontestible; the old man had
actually been seen gathering leaves and tubers in the forenoon, which
he had afterwards boiled in his own courtyard.
The accused, however, was one of Molema’s adherents; he had served
him faithfully for half a century, and Molema accordingly felt it his
duty to do everything in his power to protect him, and so sent over
to Moshaneng for Montsua to come and take the office of judge at the
trial. He was in the midst of the inquiry when I arrived.
Meanwhile, the defendant had complete liberty; he might for the time be
shunned by the population, but he walked about the streets as usual,
trusting thoroughly to Molema’s clemency and influence, and certain
that he should be able to buy himself off with a few bullocks.
The trial lasted for two days; after each sitting the court was
entertained with bochabe, a sort of meal-pap.
The evidence was conclusive; the verdict of “guilty” was unanimous.
Montsua said he should have been bound to pass a sentence of death,
but Molema had assured him there were many extenuating circumstances;
and, taking all things into account, he considered it best to leave the
actual sentence in his hands. Molema told the convicted man to keep
out of the way for a few days until Montsua had ceased to think about
the matter, and then sending for him, as he strolled about, passed
the judgment that he should forfeit a cow as a peace-offering to the
deceased girl’s next-of-kin, the next-of-kin in this case being his
wife and himself!
Before quitting the place, I went to take my leave of Mr. Webb. While
I was with him a dark form presented itself in the doorway, which I
quickly recognized as none other than King Montsua. He had followed me,
and, advancing straight to my side, put five English shillings into my
hand, requesting me to give him some more of the physic which had done
his wife so much good at the time of my visit to Moshaneng.
On the afternoon of the 2nd of April we left Molema’s Town, to proceed
up the valley of the Molapo. Next morning we passed the last of the
kraals in this direction, in a settlement under the jurisdiction of
Linkoo, a brother of Molema’s.
Early morning on this day was extremely cold, and the keen south-east
wind made us glad to put on some overcoats. We made a halt at Rietvley,
the most westerly of the Molapo farms in the Jacobsdal district, the
owner of which was a Boer of the name of Van Zyl, a brother of the
Damara emigrant to whom I shall have subsequently to refer.
From this point the farms lay in close proximity to each other, as
far as the sources of the Molapo. The river valley extended for about
twenty-two miles towards the east, retaining its marshy character
throughout, but growing gradually narrower as its banks became more
steep and wooded. Although its scenery cannot be said to rank with the
most attractive parts of the western frontier of the Transvaal, yet,
for any traveller, whether he be ornithologist, botanist, or sportsman,
the valley is well worth a visit.
The waggon-track which we had been following led, by way of Jacobsdal
and Zeerust, direct to the Baharutse kraal Linokana, by which I had
made up my mind to pass. We kept along the road as far as Taylor’s
farm, “Olive-wood-dry,” where the density of the forest and the
steepness of the slopes obliged us to leave the valley, and betake
ourselves to the table-land. Olive-wood-dry is unquestionably one
of the finest farms on the upper Molapo; it has a good garden, and
is watered by one of the most important of the springs that feed the
river, whilst the rich vegetation in the valley, thoroughly protected
as it is from cold winds, forms quite an oasis in the plateau of the
western Transvaal. A dreary contrast to this was the aspect of the
Bootfontein farm, where the people seemed to vegetate rather than to
thrive.
In the evening we crossed the watershed between the Orange River and
the Limpopo, and spent the night near a small spruit, one of the
left-hand affluents of the Malmani, which I named the Burgerspruit.
Next day we entered the pretty valley of the Malmani, the richly-wooded
slopes of which looked cheerful with the numerous farms that covered
them.
Quitting the Malmani valley on the 5th, we journeyed on eastwards past
Newport farm, along a plain where the grass was short and sour. In the
east and north-east could be seen the many spurs of the Marico hills;
the hills, too, of the Khame or Hieronymus district were quite distinct
in the distance, all combining to form one of the finest pieces of
scenery in what may be called the South African mountain system.
The slope towards the side valley, which we should have to descend in
order to reach the main valley, was characterized by a craggy double
hill, to which I gave the name of Rohlfsberg. Further down, I noticed
a saddle-shaped eminence, which I called the Zizka-saddle. The descent
was somewhat difficult, on account of the ledges of rock, but we were
amply compensated by the splendid scenery, the finest bit, I think,
being that at Buffalo’s-Hump farm, where in the far distance rises the
outline of the Staarsattel hills.
By the evening we reached the valley of the Little Marico, and the
Weltufrede farm. This belongs to Mynheer von Groomen, one of the
wealthiest Boers in the district. His sons have been elephant-hunters
for years, and have met with exceptional success, having managed to
earn a livelihood by the pursuit. In the paddock of the farm they
showed me a young giraffe that they had brought home with them from one
of their expeditions.