COOKING CAULIFLOWER.
"Of all the flowers in the garden, I like the Cauliflower
best." DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON.
Dr. Johnson appreciated good living, and therefore it is not surprising
that he should have left on record this tribute to the most delicate and
finely flavored of all the cabbage family.
Cauliflower is so rarely seen in market in the United States, except in
large cities, that comparatively few of our people are accustomed to
using it. On this account a variety of receipts for cooking cauliflower
are here given, in order to make the methods of using this excellent
vegetable more widely known. Americans, especially, need to become
familiar with its use; for to the English, French, and Germans, who have
known it in the Old World, it needs no introduction.
Cauliflower lends itself readily to both plain and fancy methods of
cooking. It is easy of digestion, and is an especial favorite with those
who, from any reason, are unable to readily digest cabbage. Besides, it
is more nutritious than the cabbage, and it is not exceeded in this
particular by any other garden vegetable.
The following tables show the comparative composition of fresh cabbage
and cauliflower, and the composition of the ash of the latter. It will
be noticed that the percentage of ash and indigestible fibre is low in
the cauliflower, and the amount of nitrogenous and starchy matter high.
ANALYSIS OF CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER. (Koenig's Nohrungsmittel, pp. 715,
717).
--------------------------+----------+-------------
| Cabbage. | Cauliflower.
--------------------------+----------+-------------
Water | 89.97 | 90.87
Nitrogenous bodies | 1.89 | 2.48
Fat | 0.20 | 0.34
Sugar | 2.29 | 1.21
Nitrogen free extract | 2.58 | 3.34
(starch, dextrine, etc.) | |
Fiber | 1.84 | 0.91
Ash | 1.23 | 0.83
--------------------------+----------+-------------
ANALYSIS OF CAULIFLOWER ASH. (Whitner's Gardening in Florida).
Potassa 34.39
Soda 14.79
Lime 2.96
Magnesia 2.38
Sulphuric Acid 11.16
Silicic Acid 1.92
Phosphoric Acid 25.87
Phosphate of Iron 3.67
Chloride of Sodium 2.78
Cauliflower is not wholly free from the odor which renders the cooking
of cabbage so unpleasant, but in this respect it is much less
objectionable than cabbage. As with cabbage, this odor is in some cases
more marked than in others, depending on the character of the soil, and
the quantity and nature of the manure used. A small piece of red pepper
added to the water in which cauliflower or cabbage is boiled prevents to
a large extent this unpleasant odor and improves their flavor. To
obviate the "strong" flavor which these vegetables acquire when large
quantities of stable manure are used the heads should be parboiled in
the morning of the day on which they are wanted. They are then put on a
hair sieve and placed in the larder. Twenty minutes before they are
wanted for the table they are to be reboiled steadily until the strong
taste is gone.
When cauliflowers are preserved in a shed or cellar they often become
more or less wilted and strong in flavor, and can then be rendered
palatable only by cutting them off from the stalks on the previous day
and throwing them into cold, salted water, frequently changing it until
they are wanted; in this way the heads become plumped up, and the strong
disagreeable smell and taste which they have acquired is in some degree
removed; but even under the most careful treatment they lose their fine,
white cauliflower color.
To remove any caterpillars or other insects which may have found
lodgment in the cauliflower head it should be examined as carefully as
possible, opening it a little if necessary. It should then be placed top
down in cold salt water for an hour; or, better still, in cold water and
vinegar. This is believed to be particularly effective in dislodging any
insect life that may be present. If the heads seem badly infested,
however, which they seldom are, the only safe way is to break them up
before cooking.
In cooking the heads whole, which is a favorite method, care is needed
not to boil too long, so as to cause the head to come to pieces. To
prevent any danger of breaking the head in cooking, it should be wrapped
in cheese cloth or other similar material, in which it is to be handled.
Cauliflower is in season in this country from June until December, but
is most abundant during the month of October. Those found in market
during the hottest summer months are apt to be dark in color, somewhat
strong in flavor, and filled with small leaves. Broccoli is cooked in
nearly all cases precisely as cauliflower.
Porcelain lined or similarly guarded pots should be used in which to
cook these vegetables, as iron is liable to impart to them a dark color.
The use of earthenware vessels in which to cook vegetables of the
cabbage tribe is recommended as follows by a writer in the _American
Garden_:
"To have any of the Brassicae in proper flavor we must go to the German
housewives and learn of them to cook cabbage, cauliflower, etc., in
earthenware instead of metal. The German potters make stout boilers,
like huge bean-pots, that hold six or eight cabbages, for restaurant
cooking, and they are quite a different vegetable treated in this way.
Try the experiment; put a cabbage in a stone jar with plenty of water,
cover tight and boil till tender. I think it does not take as long to
cook in this way as in ordinary kettles, the steady mild heat softening
the tissues more steadily than the open boiling. And there is little or
no smell to cabbage or onions cooked in a close stone pot in the oven. A
cabbage baked in its own steam in such a pot and served with hot vinegar
and butter is a high-flavored dish."
A writer in the _Rural New Yorker_ sums up the prime requirements in
cooking cauliflower as follows:
"Four rules never to be deviated from may be laid down: first, that the
cauliflower is to be soaked in salt and water for at least a half hour
before cooking, in order to drive out any insects or worms that may be
lurking among the flowerets; second, (if to be boiled) when ready for
cooking the vegetable is to be plunged into salted, thoroughly boiling
water; third, it is not to be cooked a moment after it becomes tender;
fourth, to be served as soon as done. Neglect of any of these points is
sure to result in failure, while a careful following of them will give a
wholesome, delicate dish, and one that will be eaten with gusto and
remembered with pleasure."
A very simple method of serving cauliflower is with milk and butter,
after the manner of cabbage, but a more elaborate white sauce generally
accompanies it. This is the familiar drawn butter sauce, to which may be
added a little vinegar or lemon juice, to give piquancy of flavor.
Sometimes this sauce is varied by adding milk or cream to the flour and
butter, when it is called "cream sauce."
The receipts given below are chiefly from the following four recent
works on cookery:
"Good Living," by Sara Van Buren Brugiere; G. P. Putnam's Sons, New York
and London, 1890.
"The Buckeye Cook-Book"; Buckeye Publishing Company, Minneapolis, 1887.
"Our Home Cyclopedia," by Edgar S. Darling; Mercantile Publishing
Company, Detroit, 1889.
"Mrs. A. B. Marshall's Cookery Book"; Marshall's School of Cookery,
London, 1888.
1. BOILED (_Gardener's Text Book_).--The head should be cut
with most of the surrounding leaves attached, which are to be trimmed
off when the time comes for cooking. Let it lie half an hour in salt
and water, and then boil it in fresh water for fifteen or twenty
minutes, until a fork will easily enter the stem. Milk and water are
better than water alone [a little sweet milk tends to keep the heads
white]. Serve with sauce, gravy or melted butter.
2. BOILED (_American Agriculturist_).--Boil in water, slightly
salted--never with meat. When tender, which will usually be with twenty
minutes cooking, take up and drain and cover with drawn butter (white
sauce, made with butter, flour and water) and serve hot. They are
usually eaten without other addition, but some dress with pepper and
vinegar--the same as they do cabbage.
3. BOILED (_Good Living_).--Trim off the outside leaves,
leaving one row around the flower. Cut an X in the stalk. Have a large
pot of boiling water on the fire. Add enough milk to whiten the water;
also one level teaspoonful of salt. The cauliflower should be left in
vinegar and water for twenty to thirty minutes before boiling. This
system is supposed to draw out any insects that may lurk within. Drain
it thoroughly; tie it loosely in a piece of cheese-cloth large enough to
cover it entirely. Put it into the boiling water, which must cover it
well. Let it boil until quite tender, but be careful that it does not go
to pieces. As cauliflowers vary very much in size, only a general idea
of the time required can be given. One of ordinary size will take about
forty minutes, perhaps more. When cooked lift it out by the
cheese-cloth, drain very thoroughly, and set in a round dish. Make a
cream sauce (No. 42), pour it over the cauliflower, cover, and let it
stand for a few minutes for the sauce to penetrate. Then serve. _Or_, if
a handsome specimen successfully boiled, serve it in a round dish with a
white sauce (No. 41) served separately in a sauce-boat. Add a squeeze of
lemon juice to the sauce before serving. Small cauliflowers will not
require more than thirty minutes to boil.
4. BOILED (_Buckeye Cook Book_).--To each two quarts of water
allow a heaping teaspoon of salt; choose close and white cauliflower;
trim off decayed outside leaves, and cut stock off flat at bottom. Open
flower a little in places to remove insects, which are generally found
around the stalk, and let cauliflowers lie with head downward in salt
and water for two hours previous to dressing them, which will
effectually draw out all vermin. Then put in boiling water, adding salt
in above proportion, and boil briskly for fifteen or twenty minutes over
a good fire, keeping saucepan uncovered. Water should be well skimmed,
and when cauliflowers are tender, take up, drain, and if large enough,
place upright in a dish; serve with plain melted butter, a little of
which may be poured over the flowers; or a white sauce may be used,
made as follows: Put butter size of an egg into saucepan, and when it
bubbles stir in a scant half teacup of flour; stir well with an
egg-whisk until cooked; then add two teacups of thin cream, some pepper
and salt. Stir it over the fire until perfectly smooth. Pour the sauce
over the cauliflower and serve. Many let the cauliflower simmer in the
same sauce a few moments before serving.
Cauliflower is delicious served as a garnish around spring chicken, or
with fried sweet-breads, when the white sauce should be poured over
both. In this case it should be made by adding the cream, flour and
seasoning to the little grease (half a teaspoon) that is left after
frying the chickens or sweet-breads.
5. BAKED (_Buckeye Cook Book_).--Prepare as for boiling, and
parboil five minutes; cut into pieces and put into a pie dish; add a
little milk, season with salt, pepper and butter; cover with dry, grated
cheese, and bake.
6. STEAMED (_Mrs. M. P. A. Crozier_).--Lay the nicely prepared
cauliflower head in the deep dish from which it is to be served at
table, sprinkle salt over it, place it in the steamer, cover closely,
and steam till tender. Remove to the table, and pour over it rich, sweet
cream, slightly salted and heated.
7. STEWED (_Gardener's Chronicle_).--Cut up your cauliflower
into sprigs of convenient size to serve with a tablespoon, and throw
them into cold water an hour before cooking. To stew them, have a stout,
iron stewpan, white-enamelled inside--an ordinary tin saucepan or boiler
will hardly do. Put a large lump of butter into your stewpan as you set
it over a gentle fire; instead of butter you may use the fat taken from
the top of cold roast meat gravy--that of beef or veal is preferable to
that of mutton. As the grease melts, stir into it an onion chopped very
fine, and a little flour and water; continue stirring until the whole is
nicely browned; then put in your sprigged cauliflower, adding only just
enough water or broth to cook it; season lightly with pepper and salt,
and a very light dust of grated nutmeg, if not disapproved; let it stew
gently till perfectly tender; when done the gravy should be so reduced
as to be no more in quantity than is wanted to serve as sauce with the
vegetable; for this reason the salt must be used with great moderation,
otherwise, by concentration, the gravy would be converted into brine;
transfer the cauliflower from the stewpan to a hot dish, and pour the
reduced gravy over it.
Note that by this method nothing is lost. The natural and nutritive
juices of the vegetable, the sugar and albumen, are retained instead of
being drawn out and diluted by boiling in several pints of water, and
consequently wasted and thrown away. Note also that this receipt is
founded (like the directions for many other good dishes) on the
_roux_--flour browned in butter--which is one of the grand elements in
French cookery.
8. STEWED (_Mr. S. J. Soyer_[E]).--Cauliflower butter, salt,
sugar, two and one-third ounces of flour, half a pint of cream,
one-eighth of the soup from the cauliflower.
The cauliflower is cut into pieces, boiled slightly in salted water,
taken out of the soup and put on a colander to drain. The butter and
flour are baked together and thinned with the cream, and about the
quantity of the soup above stated. The cauliflower is put into this
sauce and again brought to a boil, whereupon it is served warm.
9. ESCALLOPED (_Rural New Yorker_).--Place a layer of the
parboiled flowerets in a pudding dish, and cover them with cream sauce
enough to moisten, with the addition of a little grated cheese, usually
Parmesian; this is to be followed by another layer of this vegetable,
and the whole covered with bread crumbs dotted with bits of butter.
10. ESCALLOPED (_Buckeye Cook Book_).--Boil till tender, drain
well, and cut in small pieces; put in layers, with fine chopped egg,
and this dressing: Half pint milk, thickened over boiling water, with
two tablespoons flour and seasoned with two teaspoons salt, one of white
pepper and two tablespoons butter; put grated bread over the top; dot it
with small bits of butter and place it in the oven to heat thoroughly
and brown. Serve in same dish in which it was baked. This is a good way
to use common heads.
A nicer way is to boil them, then place them whole in a buttered dish
with stems down. Make sauce with a cup of bread crumbs beaten to froth
with two tablespoons melted butter and three of cream or milk, one
well-beaten egg, and salt and pepper to taste. Pour this over the
cauliflower, cover dish tightly, and bake six minutes in a quick oven,
browning them nicely. Serve as above.
11. WITH STUFFING (_Home Cyclopedia_).--Take a saucepan, the
exact size of the dish intended to be used. Cleanse a large, firm, white
cauliflower, and cut into sprigs, throw those into boiling salt water
for two minutes; then take them out, drain, and pack them tightly with
the heads downward, in the saucepan, the bottom of which must have been
previously covered with thin slices of bacon; fill up the vacant spaces
with a stuffing made of three tablespoonfuls of finely minced veal, the
same of beef suet, four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, a little pepper
and salt, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of minced
chives and a dozen small mushrooms, chopped fine. Strew these
ingredients over the cauliflowers in alternate layers and pour over them
three well-beaten eggs. When these are well soaked add sufficient
nicely-flavored stock to cover the whole; simmer gently till the
cauliflowers are tender, and the sauce very much reduced; then turn the
contents of the saucepan upside down on a hot dish, and the cauliflowers
will be found standing in a savory mixture.
12. WITH SAUCE (_Home Cyclopedia_).--Boil a large
cauliflower--tied in netting--in hot salted water, from twenty-five to
thirty minutes; drain, serve in a deep dish with the flower upwards, and
pour over it a cup of drawn butter in which has been stirred the juice
of a lemon and a half teaspoonful of French mustard, mixed up well with
the sauce.
13. WITH CURRY SAUCE (_Mrs. Marshall_).--Blanch (see note to
No. 19) and plain boil the cauliflower for fifteen to twenty minutes
till tender, then cut it up into nice long pieces, each sufficient for
one person; place the pieces in a saute pan and pour the curry sauce (as
for curry _a la simla_) over them; let it boil up, and then draw the pan
to the side of the stove and let it stay there for ten or twelve
minutes; dish the pieces up in the form of cutlets, pour the sauce over
them, and garnish round the cauliflower with little bunches of grated
cocoanut which have been warmed between two plates over boiling water.
This is an excellent dish for luncheon or second course, or it may be
served in place of an entree.
14. WITH TOMATO SAUCE (_Good Living_).--Having boiled a
medium-sized cauliflower, very carefully as directed (No. 3) place it on
a round dish, after having thoroughly drained it. Have ready a rich
tomato sauce (No. 40) pour it around (not over) the cauliflower, and
serve as a separate course. This is a very pretty dish.
15. WITH TOMATO SAUCE (_Good Health_).--Boil or steam the
cauliflower until tender. In another dish prepare a sauce by heating a
pint of strained stewed tomatoes to boiling, thickening with a
tablespoonful of flour, and salting to taste. When the cauliflower is
tender, dish, and pour over it the hot tomato sauce.
16. WITH MUSHROOMS (_Buckeye Cook Book_).--Put in a frying pan,
in hot fat, a few small mushrooms and part of a cauliflower, broken into
sprigs. Sprinkle over them some grated cheese, and baste the whole well
from time to time with the hot fat.
17. WITH BRUSSELS SPROUTS (_Mr. S. J. Soyer_).--Cauliflower,
Brussels sprouts, dotter of egg, butter, a tablespoonful of cream, half
a pint of sauce for vegetables, potato pure--that is, bouillon thickened
with mashed potatoes and strained.
Both cauliflower and sprouts are to be well cleaned, boiled separately
in salt water and served on the pure, the cauliflower in the centre and
the sprouts around it for garnishing. The sauce, to which is added the
egg dotters, butter and cream, is poured hot over the cauliflower and
sprouts.
18. AU GRATIN (_Good Living_).--Boil the cauliflower as
directed. Set it in a round baking dish which can be sent to the table.
For a moderate sized cauliflower make one pint of cream sauce (No. 42).
Add to the sauce two heaping tablespoons each or grated Parmesian and
Gruyere cheese and a dash of cayenne. Mix the sauce and pour it over the
cauliflower, letting it penetrate all the crevices. Cover the top with
fine grated bread crumbs, dot with butter, and bake twenty minutes.
Serve in the same dish.
19. AU GRATIN (_Mrs. Marshall_).--Trim the cauliflower and
blanch it[F]; put it to boil in boiling water till it is tender; then
take up and drain. Butter the dish on which it is to be served and put
on it about two tablespoonfuls of the sauce as below (No. 39); put the
cauliflower on the sauce, then cover it over thickly with sauce, and
smooth it all over with a palette knife; sprinkle it with browned bread
crumbs; stand the dish in an ordinary baking tin containing about a pint
of boiling water; place in the oven for about fifteen or twenty minutes,
and when a nice golden color take it from the oven and sprinkle over it
a very little grated Parmesian cheese. Stand the dish on another with a
napkin, and serve very hot as a second course or luncheon dish.
20. AU GRATIN (_Mr. S. J. Soyer_).--Three cauliflower heads,
salt, pepper, grated bread, two eggs, one-quarter pound grated Parmesian
cheese, one-quarter pound grated Swiss cheese, one pint white sauce.
The cauliflowers are boiled rare, taken out and drained off. White sauce
and spices are boiled thick and the egg dotters and cheese mixed with
it. The cauliflowers are cut to pieces and put in layers with sauce
between, on a dish or silver saucepan, are sprinkled with grated bread
and cheese, put fifteen minutes into a hot oven to be browned with a
salamander. Serve as an independent dish.
In place of "white sauce" butter and flour may be baked together and
thinned with sweet milk.
21. CAULIFLOWER AU NATUREL (_Mr. J. S. Soyer_).--The stem of
the white, solid cauliflower heads is cut off an inch from the head,
and with a penknife is cleaned of the hard outer membrane, taking care
to preserve the head as whole as possible; the head is then well rinsed
in cold water, to which is added some vinegar to drive out larvae and the
like; it is then boiled in salt water until it is tender, when it is
taken up to drain off on a sieve or colander. It is to be served high on
a napkin, with melted butter, common sauce for vegetables, Dutch sauce,
_veloute_ or _maitre d'hotel_ sauce.
N. B.--For cauliflowers, and vegetables generally, the sauce
ought to be rather thick, as it is impossible to have the
vegetables run perfectly dry when they are to be served warm.
22. A LA FRANCAISE (_Home Cyclopedia_).--After trimming
properly, cut the cauliflower into quarters, and put into a stewpan and
boil until tender; drain and arrange it neatly on a dish. Pour over it
melted butter.
23. A LA LOUIS XIV (_Mr. S. J. Soyer_).--Cauliflower, new-made
butter, grated nutmeg, bouillon.
The cauliflower is to be repeatedly washed in lukewarm water, boiled
with bouillon and a little nutmeg, drained and then shaken with butter
over a fire. To be served as soon as the butter is melted.
24. A LA VARENNE (_Mrs. Marshall_).--Trim a cauliflower, and
place it in salt and water for about one hour; then put it into cold
water with a pinch of salt; bring to the boil, and then rinse the
cauliflower and put it again into boiling water which is seasoned with
salt, to cook till tender. When cooked, cut it in pieces and dish up in
a coil; pour parsley sauce over, and garnish it round with braised
carrots or a macedoine of vegetables, and place the cut up stalks of
cauliflower in the centre. Serve for a luncheon or second course dish.
25. EN MAYONNAISE (_Mr. S. J. Soyer_).--Two heads of
cauliflower, salt, pepper, sweet oil, estragon, chopped parsley,
vinegar, oil-sauce.
The cauliflowers are to be plucked apart and the stemlets cut off at
proper lengths. Boil in water, and salt when nearly done. Drain off and
let cool, and then marinate for an hour with oil, vinegar, spices,
estragon and parsley. Drain on a sieve. To be served high on a dish, and
oil sauce gradually to be poured over. If desired, the dish might be
garnished with carrots or some other suitable vegetable.
26. SOUFFLE OF CAULIFLOWER, A LA BARONNE (_Mrs.
Marshall_).--Trim a nice cauliflower, put it to blanch (note to No. 19),
then rinse it and put it into boiling water with a little salt, and let
it cook till tender; take up again, drain, and cut it in neat pieces and
place them in a buttered souffle dish with alternate layers of raw
sliced tomatoes; season with a very little salt and white pepper, and
fill up the dish with a souffle mixture prepared as below, and sprinkle
over with a few browned bread crumbs; place a few pieces of butter here
and there on the top, and bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes,
dish upon a paper with a napkin round, sprinkle it with a little chopped
parsley, and serve for second course or luncheon.
_Mixture for Cauliflower Souffle._--Mix two ounces of butter, one and a
half ounces of fine flour, one and a half raw yolks of eggs, tiny dust
of cayenne, a saltspoonful of salt, with not quite half a pint of cold
milk; stir over the fire till it boils, then add three ounces of grated
Parmesian cheese and the whites of three eggs that have been whipped
stiff, with a pinch of salt, and use.
27. CAULIFLOWER SALAD (_Good Living_).--One pint cold boiled
cauliflower, one teaspoon of chervil, chopped as fine as powder, one
teaspoon of parsley, chopped as fine as powder, one teaspoon of tarragon
or Maille vinegar, French dressing.
Boil the cauliflower as directed (No. 3). Separate the flowerets, mix
with the parsley, chives and dressing. Set aside one hour. Serve very
cold.
_Another_ (_Buckeye Cook Book_).--After boiling, let cool and dress with
Mayonnaise, or any dressing preferred.
28. CAULIFLOWER OMELETTE.--Take the white part of a boiled
cauliflower after it is cold, chop it very small, and mix with it a
sufficient quantity of well beaten egg to make a very thick batter; then
fry it in fresh butter, in a small pan, and send to the table hot.
NOTE:--This omelette makes a fine dressing to pour hot over
fried chicken when ready to send to the table.
29. CAULIFLOWER SOUP (_Mr. S. J. Soyer_). Two and a half quarts
bouillon, one and a half pint milk, two or three cauliflowers, two and a
half ounces butter, one and a half ounce flour, sugar, salt.
The cauliflowers are cleaned, and boiled almost ready, taken out and put
on a sieve, and the soup preserved. The butter and flour are baked
together; and with the milk, bouillon, sugar and salt added to the
decoction from the cauliflowers. These are then cut into proper pieces
and put into the soup, which is subjected to a quick boil and then
served with bread dumplings: crumbs of white bread moistened with milk,
melted butter, dotter of eggs, and the whites beaten to a stiff
froth--the mass rolled into balls, and boiled until they float.
30. CAULIFLOWER CREAM SOUP (_Rural New Yorker_).--Boil the
cauliflower in salt water until nearly done. For a small head, bring
another quart of water (or milk and water) to boil, adding half an
onion, or a bit of spice if desired, and thicken it as for drawn butter
sauce, with an ounce of butter and some flour. Boil the cauliflower in
the liquid until soft, then put the whole through a colander; return to
the fire, and add a cup of cream; simmer for five minutes, and serve at
once, with squares of fried bread.
31. BROCCOLI (_American Garden_).--Broccoli is a pleasant
change from cabbage and cauliflower, either as a salad or a side dish.
To dress it, strip off the little branches, till the top one is left,
then with a sharp knife peel off all the hard skin on the stalks and
branchlets and throw them into water. When the water in the stewpan
boils, put in the broccoli and cook till tender, salting in the last
five minutes. Serve with toast dipped in the broccoli water, laying the
stalks over it, and eat with vinegar and melted butter. Or, let it get
cold, cut in small bits, and serve as salad with oil and vinegar, with
lemon juice, garnished with nasturtium buds. Or, serve a large round of
toast, the size of a dinner plate, moistened with broccoli water, salted
and buttered, with nicely poached eggs laid on it, and sprigs of hot
broccoli set thickly between, dusting with fine salt. Cauliflower and
solid white cabbage may be served the same way.
32. EGG BROCCOLI (_Home Cyclopedia_).--Take half a dozen heads
of broccoli, cut off the small shoots or blossoms and lay them aside for
frying; trim the stalks short and pare off the rough rind up to the
head, wash them well and lay them in salt water for an hour, then put
them into plenty of boiling water (salted) and let them boil fast till
quite tender. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, and stir it over
a slow fire till it is melted; then add gradually six or eight
well-beaten eggs and stir the mixture until it is thick and smooth. Lay
the broccoli in the center of a large dish, pour the egg around it, and,
having fried the broccoli blossoms, arrange them in a circle near the
edge of the dish.
33. PICKLED (_Mrs. M. P. A. Crozier_).--Break at the natural
divisions, steam till tender, and place in a jar of cold vinegar with
mustard and red peppers.
34. PICKLED (_Gardener's Text Book_).--Place the heads in a
keg, and sprinkle them liberally with salt. Let them remain thus for
about a week, when you may turn over them scalding hot vinegar, prepared
with one ounce of mace, one ounce of peppercorns, and one ounce of
cloves to every gallon. Draw off the vinegar, and return it scalding hot
several times until the heads become tender.
35. PICKLED (_Rural New Yorker_).--Break the heads into small
sprays, throw them into a kettle of scalding brine; let them come to a
boil, and drain carefully, so as not to break them; pack in stone or
glass jars, and cover with scalding vinegar seasoned as follows: To one
gallon of vinegar allow one cup of white sugar, half an ounce of mace,
one ounce of peppercorns, two or three red pepper pods broken into bits,
and a tablespoonful each of coriander seed, celery seed, and white
mustard. Pour this hot over the cauliflowers and seal at once. Glass
jars are the most convenient, as they may be examined frequently to see
if their contents are keeping well. If not, repeat the scalding. In all
pickles the vinegar should be two inches or more above the vegetables,
as it is sure to shrink, and if the vegetables are not thoroughly
immersed in vinegar they will not keep.
36. PICKLED (_Home Cyclopedia_).--Choose such as are firm, yet
of their full size; cut away all the leaves and pare the stalks; pull
away the flowers in bunches, steep in brine two days, then drain them,
wipe them dry, and put them in hot pickle, or merely infuse for three
days three ounces of curry powder in every quart of vinegar.
_Another._ Slice, salt for two or three days, drain, spread upon a dry
cloth before the fire twenty-four hours; put in a jar and cover with
spiced vinegar.
37. MIXED PICKLES (_Home Cyclopedia_).--Three hundred small
cucumbers, four green peppers, sliced fine, two large or three small
heads of cauliflower, three heads of white cabbage sliced fine, nine
large onions sliced, one large horseradish, one quart green beans cut
one inch long, one quart green tomatoes sliced; put this mixture in a
pretty strong brine twenty-four hours; drain three hours; then sprinkle
in one-fourth pound black and one-fourth pound white mustard seed; also
one tablespoonful black ground pepper; let it come to a boil in just
vinegar enough to cover it, adding a little alumn; drain again, and when
cold put in one-half pint ground mustard; cover the whole with good
cider vinegar; add turmeric enough to color if you like.
ACCESSORY RECEIPTS.
38. CAULIFLOWER SAUCE (_Good Living_).--Use either white or
cream sauce, adding to it the flowerets of cauliflower previously boiled
tender. Serve with boiled fowl, veal saute, etc.
39. CAULIFLOWER SAUCE (_To accompany No. 19_).--One pint of
thick Bechamel sauce, a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesian cheese,
two tablespoonfuls of grated Gruyere cheese, two tablespoonfuls of
cream, a little dust of cayenne pepper and a pinch of salt; mix well
together, and use.
40. TOMATO SAUCE (_To accompany No. 14_).--
6 large tomatoes, or 1 can,
Butter, size of an egg,
Bunch of parsley or thyme,
1 tablespoonful of butter,
2 chopped onions,
Salt and pepper,
Pinch of sugar,
2 tablespoonfuls of flour.
Peel the tomatoes, and put into a sauce pan with butter, thyme, onions
and parsley (and 1 clove of garlic chopped and fried in butter). Set
over boiling water and stew very gently for three hours. Then press
fruit and juice all through a sieve, rejecting only the seeds and herbs.
Meanwhile prepare a roux, allowing 1 quart of sauce, 1 tablespoonful of
butter, and 2 of flour, stirred together over the fire until light
golden brown--no darker, or the color of the sauce will be injured. When
the sauce is strained, remove the roux from the fire; stir in the sauce.
Return it to the fire. Stir and boil 3 to 5 minutes, until rich and
thick. Should the sauce be already quite thick with the pulp of the
tomatoes, use less thickening. If served with fricandeau, veal saute, or
filet of beef, add the juices of the meat to the sauce.
41. WHITE SAUCE (_To accompany No. 3, etc._)--
3 ounces of butter,
2 gills of water,
1 ounce of flour,
Pepper and salt.
Put 2 ounces of the butter in a stew pan; when it melts, add the flour.
Stir for 1 minute or more, but do not brown. Then add by degrees the
boiling water, stirring until smooth; pass it through a sieve; then add
the rest of the butter, cut in pieces. When the butter is melted, serve
immediately. This makes about one pint of sauce. You may add as a great
improvement a little lemon juice or a few drops of vinegar.
N. B.--If the sauce is to have other ingredients added it is best to
have it very thick to begin with.
42. CREAM SAUCE (_To accompany Nos. 3 and 18_).
1 tablespoon of flour,
1 very large tablespoon of butter,
2 gills of new milk,
1/2 teaspoon of salt,
Pepper to taste.
Put 3/4 of the butter in a sauce pan over the fire. As soon as it melts,
add the flour; stir till blended. Be careful not to let it brown. Add
the boiling milk, by degrees, to the flour and butter, stirring without
ceasing. Boil 3 minutes. Remove from the fire; add salt, white pepper,
and the rest of the butter; stir until the butter melts, and serve
immediately. If it has to be kept, set it over a kettle of boiling
water; leave the spoon in it; and every now and again stir it down or
the top will form a scum. Do not let it boil after the last butter is
added. Cream may be used instead of new milk.
FOOTNOTES:
[E] Chief Cook at the Court of Denmark.
[F] Blanching anything is placing it on the fire in cold water until it
boils, and after straining it off plunging it into cold water for the
purpose of rendering it white.
RECAPITULATION.
The following recapitulation of the more important points connected with
cauliflower culture will serve to fix them in mind:
1. The best localities for cauliflower growing are where the climate is
cool and moist, as near some large body of water.
2. The cauliflower will stand nearly as much dry weather as ordinary
crops while growing, providing it has a cool, moist time in which to
head.
3. The best soil is a sandy loam, though any cool, moist, strong,
fertile soil will answer.
4. While a cool, moist soil is desirable, thorough drainage is quite as
essential as with any other crop.
5. An abundance of strong barn-yard or other manure is necessary, as the
cauliflower is a gross feeder.
6. Deep and frequent tillage, that there may be no check in growth until
the plants are nearly ready to head.
7. Tie or pin the leaves over the heads as soon as they appear, to keep
them blanched and protect them from frost.
8. If any plants have failed to head on the approach of winter, remove
them to a shed or cellar, and they will head there.
9. Guard against the flea beetle, cut worm, cabbage worm and cabbage
maggot in the same manner as with cabbage.
10. With suitable varieties and proper care the cauliflower can
generally be successfully grown wherever the cabbage thrives
particularly well.
GLOSSARY.
BLIND.--To "go blind" is to lose the centre or growing point,
and fail to head. It is generally due to climatic or insect injury. It
is said to be frequently caused in the cauliflower by an insect
resembling the turnip fly. Soot and lime are remedies.
BLUES.--A dark-bluish appearance, accompanying arrested
development, generally due to unfavorable weather, unsuitable soil or
insects at the root. Cabbage and cauliflower plants which are set too
early in the spring, especially if they are not well hardened off and
are placed in a cold soil, are apt to assume this appearance. If
cauliflowers remain long in this condition, they are liable either to
fail to head, or to form small heads prematurely.
BOLT.--A familiar term in England, applied to wheat when it
heads out small and prematurely. Sometimes applied to cauliflowers when
they head before they attain a proper age and size. See _Button_.
BREAK.--To become loose or "frothy" preparatory to running up
to seed. Said of a head of cauliflower; also of other plants as they
begin to throw up their seed stalks.
BUTTON.--TO form small heads prematurely, as often occurs when
plants are left too long in the seed-bed.
CURD.--The material composing the head of a cauliflower.
Sometimes the heads individually are called "curds."
DRAWN.--Having an abnormally long stem, owing to crowding, or
too great heat, or too little light in the seed-bed.
FLOWER OR BLOSSOM.--Terms often applied to the head in the
cauliflower, either from its resemblance to a flower, or from a mistaken
idea that it really is a flower.
FLOWERET.--A term sometimes applied to one of the sprays or
sub-divisions of a cauliflower head.
FROTHY, see _Warty_.
GLAUCOUS.--Pale bluish-green; sea-green.
HEAD.--The edible part of a cauliflower, consisting of a mass
of thickened flower-stems at an early stage of growth, before they have
separated and elongated preparatory to forming flowers and seeds.
Various other terms have been applied to it, such as "flower" or
"blossom," "bouquet," "heart," and, by the French, "pomme" (apple), but
sometimes also "tete" (head).
HEART, see _Head_.
LEAFY.--Having the head interspersed with rather small leaves.
A tendency to this condition is found in some inferior varieties, and
in many good varieties when they head in hot weather.
MOSSY.--Having numerous minute leaves distributed over the
head, giving it a "mossy" appearance. It is a condition of the same
nature as the "leafy" state above mentioned, and produced by the same
causes.
ROGUE.--An undesirable sport. A cauliflower which, unlike the
others in the field, runs immediately to seed without forming a head,
would be called a "rogue."
RUNNING.--Throwing up the flower-stalks preparatory to the
production of seed. See _Break_.
TURNING IN.--Commencing to head; a term originally applied to
cabbages, but now extended to other plants which form heads of any kind.
WARTY OR FROTHY.--A condition of the head in which the surface
is covered with small prominences preparatory to running up to seed.
WEATHER-PROUD.--An English term which signifies that plants are
larger or more thrifty than proper for the time of year. Applied, for
example, to wintered-over cauliflower plants during a warm, early
spring.
REFERENCES.
In the following works and articles certain points in connection with
the cauliflower and its cultivation are more fully treated than in the
present work.
BON JARDINIER, (1859, p. 449).--A good article on the origin
and varieties of the cauliflower, and its cultivation in France.
BRILL, FRANCIS.--"Cauliflowers and How to Grow Them," (16 pp.,
price twenty cents. Published by the Author, Riverhead, N. Y., 1886). A
well written account of cauliflower growing on Long Island and the
methods used.
BURPEE, W. A.--"How to Grow Cabbages and Cauliflowers," (W. A.
Burpee & Co., Philadelphia, 1890). A pamphlet of eighty-five pages,
price thirty cents, consisting of prize essays on the Cabbage and
Cauliflower, by Mr. G. H. Howard, of Long Island, N. Y., and Mr. J.
Pedersen, of Denmark; together with directions for cooking these
vegetables by Mr. S. J. Soyer, chief cook at the Court of Denmark; and a
chapter on varieties by W. A. Burpee.
DE CANDOLLE, AUGUSTIN PYRAMUS.--"Memoir on the Different
Species, Races and Varieties of the Genus Brassica, and of the Genera
Allied with it which are Cultivated in Europe" (read in
1821).--_Transactions of the Horticultural Society of London_, Vol. V,
p. 1.
DON, GEO.--"General History of Dichlamydeous Plants," (4
volumes, London, 1831). Volume I, pp. 233-241, contains a good account
of the culture and varieties of broccoli and cauliflower. Fifteen
varieties of broccoli and three of cauliflower are described.
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, (1878, p. 61).--A
good article on the cultivation of cauliflower in England.
LOUDON, J. C.--"Encyclopaedia of Gardening" (5th edition,
London, 1827). This standard work contains a very full account of the
cauliflower and its allies, including quotations from various English
authorities.
MAGAZINE OF HORTICULTURE, (1839, p. 53).--A good article on the
cultivation of the cauliflower in England.
MAHER, JOHN.--"Hints relative to the Culture of the Early
Purple Broccoli" (read in 1808).--_Transactions of the Horticultural
Society of London_, Vol. I, pp. 116-120. An account of the culture and
varieties of broccoli, with remarks on its improvement, and on the
liability of broccoli and cauliflower to mix with cabbage.
MCINTOSH, CHARLES.--"Book of the Garden" (2 volumes, London,
1853). The second volume contains the best account of cauliflower
cultivation in England written up to that time.
ROGERS, JOHN.--"The Vegetable Cultivator" (London, 1843).
Contains a good account of the cauliflower and the methods of growing it
in England.
STURTEVANT, DR. E. L.--In his "History of Garden Vegetables,"
in the _American Naturalist_, this author gives the history of
cauliflower and broccoli, including the earliest recorded evidences of
their cultivation, and the names applied to these vegetables in
different countries. The broccoli is treated in the volume for 1887, p.
438, and the cauliflower in the same volume, p. 701.
SUTTON & SONS, Reading, England.--These seedsmen publish a work
on Gardening, price five shillings, in which the subject of cauliflower
culture in England is fully treated.
VILMORIN--ANDRIEUX, ET CIE.--"_Plantes Potagers_" (Paris,
1883). This work by Vilmorin, Andrieux & Co., the Paris seedsmen, was
translated into English, and published under the title of "The Vegetable
Garden," by Murray, of London, in 1885. It contains full descriptions of
varieties of cauliflower, based on trials at the experiment grounds of
this firm at Paris, and also includes information on the cultivation of
this vegetable in France.
INDEX.
Page.
Analysis, 196
Blackleg, =105=
Blanching, =39=
Broccoli, 10, 11, 13, =189=
Buttoning, =57=
Cabbage, history, 9
Cabbage, wild, 9
Cabbage maggot, =96=
Cabbage worm, =98=
Cauliflower in
United States, 19, 22, =61=
Mexico, 85
Europe, 19
India, 86
Austria, 21
England, 21
France, 20
Germany, 21
Holland, 21
Italy 21
Long Island, =22=, =62=
Puget Sound, 91, =115=
Alabama, 80
California, 90
Colorado, 77
Florida, 82
Georgia, 79
Illinois, 23, 75
Iowa, 77
Louisiana, 83
Massachusetts, 71
Michigan, 72, 185
Minnesota, 74
Missouri, 76
New Jersey, 69
North Carolina, 78
Ohio, 75
Oregon, 90
South Dakota, 78
Texas, 84
Washington, 91, 115
Wisconsin, 74
Cauliflower industry, 19
Climate, 63, 72, 73, 78, 89, 90, 112, 116
Cooking, =195=
Cross-fertilization, 113, 114, 121
Cultivation, =37=
Cut worms, =94=
Damping off, =104=
Duty, see =Tariff=
Earliness, order of, 177
Early cauliflower, =53=
Failures, 19, 53, 69, 71
Fertilizers, =26=, 65, 68, 79, 85, 87, 116
Flea beetle, 27, 29, =93=
Frost, effect of, =41=
Fungi, =101=
Glossary, 223
Harvesting, =42=
History, =9=
Importation of cauliflower, 23
Insects, 30, =93=, 87
Irrigation, 20, =38=, 77
Keeping, =48=
Large heads, 77, 83, 86, 169, 171
Louse, 29, 100
Marketing, =47=, 55, 79, 81
Mildew, =105=
Origin, =9=
Packages, =45=
Packing, =45=
Pickles, 23, 216
Preparing the ground, =35=, 68, 87, 116
Price, =47=, 55, 65, 69, 79
Puget Sound seed, 109, 115, 185
Recapitulation, 221
References, 227
Rot, =101=
Scale of maturity, 177
Seed, =107=
in Cyprus, 109
Denmark, 110
England, 108, 110
France, 108
Germany, 108
Holland, 108
Scotland, 108
India, 89
Long Island, 110
Massachusetts, 110
Mexico, 86
Puget Sound, 109, 115, 185
Seed, amount needed, 88, 115
Seed, duration of vitality, 115
Seed, sowing, =27=, 33, 82, 87
Selling, see =Marketing=
Soil, =25=, 72, 82, 86, 116
Soil, preparation of, =35=, 68, 87, 116
Sowing seed, =27=, 33, 82, 87
Tariff on cauliflower, 23
Terms, 223
Time to cut, 42
Time to sow, =33=
Transplanting, =35=, 117
Trimming, =44=
Varieties, 14, =125=, =187=
Variety tests, =178=
HOW TO EXTEND THE MARKET
For Cauliflower.
The market demand for any product is always a matter of growth. Peter
Henderson said in 1867 that an acre of cauliflower was as much as could
be profitably sold from one garden in the New York market. Now, five to
fifteen acres in a single field is not an uncommon sight on Long Island.
It is the business of the grower not only to supply the demand, but to
create it. One way to increase the demand for cauliflower is to teach
consumers the best methods of using it. We believe that if cauliflower
growers could distribute freely to their customers the information found
in the chapter on cooking in this work on Cauliflower it would result in
largely increased sales. Accordingly we have reprinted this chapter as a
separate pamphlet and offer it to market gardeners and others at the
following very low rates: Single copies, ten cents, $5 per hundred.
Sample copy free upon request to any purchaser of this book. Please give
these a trial.
REGISTER PUBLISHING COMPANY,
ANN ARBOR, MICHIGAN
Henderson's Early Snowball
CAULIFLOWER.
[Illustration]
EARLY, LARGE AND A SURE HEADER. THE STANDARD VARIETY EVERYWHERE.
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SEALED WITH OUR RED TRADE MARK LABEL.
PETER HENDERSON & CO., SEEDSMEN,
35 & 37 Cortland St.,--NEW YORK.
MARCH'S
PUGET SOUND
CAULIFLOWER AND CABBAGE SEED.
THE BEST IN THE WORLD.
In every part of the country, from Maine to Oregon, it is pronounced
good. High Testimony from High Sources.
_Reports of the Experiment Stations_:
Prof. W. J. Green, Ohio. Ag. Ex. Sta., says: Having tested your Snowball
and Earliest Dwarf Erfurt, I do not hesitate, after careful trials, to
say that your Cauliflower seed ranks with the very best. Not only does
it show the effects of careful selection, but the seeds were very large
and full of vitality, germinated quick, and produced plants of uncommon
vigor, healthy in all stages of growth. If the seed sent us is a fair
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be produced, as far as quality is concerned, and in vitality and
consequent vigor of plants excelling imported seed by 25 per cent. I
shall not hesitate to recommend Puget Sound Cauliflower seed, for I
believe it to be The Best in the World.
Prof. L. R. Taft, Mich. Ag. Col., writes:
Dear Sir,--The Early Perfection ("Novelty No. 9") and American grown
Snowball Cauliflower seed sent here for trial by you, as compared with
nine other varieties, the following is the report. No. 8 is American
Snowball, and No. 10 is Novelty No. 9 or Early Perfection:
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 =8= 9 =10= 11
96 93 65 58 43 79 63 =96= 86 =99= 83 Germination.
90 68 66 48 17 58 33 =82= 76 =90= 60 Vegetation.
80 80 70 80 90 40 60 =90= 90 =100= 80 Vigor and heading
The Early Perfection (No. 9) was one of the first to form heads,
requiring fifty-three days from time of planting out. It gave fully as
good and large heads as any of the other early kinds. I am particularly
pleased with the high vegetative powers of your seeds, and the vigor of
the plants.
Mich. Ag. Col., Nov. 20, 1890.
H. A. March, Fidalgo, Wash.:
Dear Sir,--Your letter asking for a report of your Cabbage and
Cauliflower Seed, is at hand. The Puget Sound strain of Early Wakefield
Cabbage seed was so noticeably large that I weighed several samples of
it and found that it averaged two and one-half times as large as the
same variety from other seedsmen. In the seed-box we obtained 97 plants
from 100 seeds.
The plants were much stronger than those of any other variety.
Twenty-five plants were put out, and every one formed a perfect head.
They were very even in size and shape, averaging slightly larger than
our other strains, with three days difference in their favor in
earliness.
Very truly, L. R. TAFT.
_Prices half the price of imported seed of the_ SAME QUALITY. _Send for
prices and testimonials to_
H. A. MARCH, FIDALGO, SKAGIT CO., WASH.
Try American Grown Cauliflower Seed.
[Illustration]
TILLINGHAST'S P. S. STOCK.
After many years costly of costly experimenting I believe I am now in
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TILLINGHAST'S EARLY PADILLA.
_By mail post paid, 20cts. per pkt. $2.00 per oz. net_
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