MANAGEMENT OF THE CROP.
SOIL.
Almost any soil will do for the cauliflower, providing it is moist and
fertile. The requirements of this vegetable as to soil are practically
the same as those for the cabbage, except, that as the cauliflower will
stand less drouth, it should generally have a heavier and richer soil,
and rather more room. A soil which produces cabbages with large and
rather soft heads is likely to be good for cauliflowers; that is, it
contains more vegetable matter than the right amount for producing hard
heads of cabbage. Muck will answer for cauliflowers if it is not too wet
or too dry; it should like any other soil be treated to a good coat of
barn-yard manure--horse manure being preferable on such land, as it
promotes fermentation. Small quantities of lime may also be applied for
the same reason.
The best soil is generally a strong sandy loam. Light sand or gravel is
the poorest; and unless made very rich and artificially watered, it is
useless to attempt to grow cauliflowers on such a soil in ordinary
seasons. Heavy clay is less suitable for cauliflower than for cabbage,
chiefly because on such a soil the plants are apt to be small and late.
In a warm climate a heavier soil is required than in a cool one. The
ground should, if possible, be fresh sod-land (preferably pasture) or at
most one year removed from the sod. It is unsafe to plant cauliflowers
after cauliflowers, or any other plant of the cabbage tribe, though it
is sometimes successfully done. Newly cleared land, or land fresh from
the sod, is even more desirable for cauliflowers than for cabbages. On
new land the crop is not only less subject to disease and the attacks of
insects, but its growth is likely to be more satisfactory, even without
manure, or with only a moderate amount, than it is on old land, however
well manured.
FERTILIZERS.
The cauliflower is a gross feeder, and land intended for this crop can
hardly be made too rich. Barn-yard manure is usually employed, and there
is nothing better for general use. Commercial fertilizers--potash, soda
and phosphates--are also good, especially to promote heading. The wild
plant from which the cauliflower is derived being a native of the
sea-shore, common salt seems particularly adapted to it. Kelp, or
sea-weed, is used with advantage where it can be obtained.
If barn-yard manure is not too coarse, plowing it under in moderate
amount will, in addition to its fertilizing effect, help to keep the
land moist. Where the cabbage maggot is troublesome the use of fresh
stable manure is thought to promote the attack of that insect, and
therefore only well rotted manure is recommended. Of course a larger
amount of manure may be safely applied if it is well rotted than if it
is coarse and strawy. Liquid manure is used by many growers, being
applied a few weeks before planting, and from time to time during the
season. Water-closet contents, diluted or composted, and applied either
in the liquid or powdered form, is one of the best of fertilizers for
the cauliflower, but it should not be used too freely, or too late in
the season. All coarse or concentrated fertilizers should be applied at
least two weeks before the time for transplanting, and such as are
applied on the surface should be well mixed with the soil.
SOWING THE SEED.
The preparation of the seed-bed will vary according to circumstances. I
formerly grew the plants for the fall crop in beds elevated two or three
feet above the ground, in order to escape the flea beetle, but in later
years I have grown a portion of the plants in the open ground. This
method requires less care, and is now usually practiced by large
growers, though it sometimes fails, for the reason stated. Remedies for
the flea beetle will be found in another chapter. The soil in which the
plants are to be grown should be rich and fine, rather light, and
improved, if necessary, with a little of the finest old rotted manure. A
small amount of lime or ashes raked into the soil is a benefit, and is
thought to prevent the attack of the cabbage maggot, though its value,
if any, for this purpose, is slight. An old brush-heap burnt off makes a
favorite place for sowing cauliflower and cabbage seed, but it is seldom
that market gardeners care to go out of their way to get such a place.
The large cauliflower growers of Long Island usually sow the seed in
drills across one end of the field in which the crop is to be grown,
raking into the soil before sowing, a moderate dressing of some
commercial fertilizer.
It is often recommended to sow the seed on the north side of a fence, or
in some other partially shaded place. I have never seen any necessity
for this, and once spoiled a quantity of plants by growing them in the
partial shade of some large trees. At the South, as elsewhere stated, it
is sometimes necessary to give the young plants shade during the middle
of the day if they are started in the summer months.
The seed should always be sown thinly, not only because it is expensive
and none should be wasted, but in order that all may have room to
develop into healthy and stocky plants. If the weather is at all dry it
is well to lay boards, or some other covering, over the seed-bed until
the plants begin to come up. This will insure speedy and uniform
germination. If this is done the seed may be sown very shallow;
otherwise it should be sown at least half an inch deep (or even deeper
if the soil is light) and the soil pressed firm after sowing.
Transplanting the young plants in the seed-bed will render them stocky
and vigorous, and should always be practiced with the early crop, but if
the seed is sown sufficiently thin it is unnecessary with out-door
plants intended for the late crop. Some growers, including Mr. Gregory
of Massachusetts, practice sowing the seed in hills in the open ground
where the plants are to remain. Several seeds are placed in a hill to
insure against loss. This method, however, will seldom be found
desirable.
To the above may be added the following excellent directions given by
Mr. Francis Brill, of Riverhead, Long Island, in his pamphlet on the
cauliflower: "Occasionally, by reason of drouth, and frequently by
reason of the ravages of insects, great difficulty has been experienced
in growing plants in spring and early summer, which seldom occurs in the
fall--at which time, however, the same precautions may be used. Time was
when we could circumvent the flea and louse on young plants by the use
of lime, tobacco, ashes, soot, etc., but of late years they seem to
have been so very abundant, and so materially aided in their work of
destruction by the black grub below and the green grub above ground,
that many complete failures have occurred in endeavors to grow plants.
To avoid this I recommend that the ground intended for plants be plowed
or spaded in the fall, and if stable manure is to be used, let it be
well rotted and turned under at this time, and again work the soil early
in the spring, at this time turning under a good dressing of potash
salts; keep the ground free from weeds by occasional stirring until the
time for sowing the seed, then lay out a bed six feet wide, and as long
as you please; make the surface smooth, and enclose it with common
boards ten or twelve inches in width set edgewise perpendicularly,
one-half their width under ground and held in place by stakes driven at
the joints and centres. Within this frame, beginning at either end, dig
and thoroughly pulverize the soil by means of a spading fork, potato
fork, or similar implement, watching closely for any grub worms which
may not have been eradicated by the previous workings and which we now
propose to keep out by means of the partially sunken boards.
"Fertilizers may, at this time, be applied and forked under or raked in,
using judgment as to method and quantity, which must be determined by
the previous condition of the soil and the strength of the material
used, remembering that it is not well to have any chemicals in too close
proximity to the tender rootlets of the young plants; and while poor
soil is no place in which to grow healthy plants, yet they should not be
over stimulated, but the ground must be in proper condition to keep up a
vigorous and healthy growth. Let this digging be done in the latter part
of the afternoon when the sun has spent its force and the soil will not
dry out too quickly; rake the bed as you go, and sow the seed while the
surface soil is fresh and moist, using a ten-inch board as long as your
bed is wide, which place five or six inches from the end or head of the
frame, crosswise, and with a blunt stick, say three-fourths of an inch
in diameter, draw a mark not more than one-half an inch deep along each
edge of the board; sow the seed thinly in these marks, using the thumb
and finger to guide it; then turning the board twice, sow two more rows,
and so proceed until you have sown several rows, say 12 to 20, when they
must be covered, using the back of a spade, drawing it with some
pressure half way from each side of the bed. A very important part of
this operation which must not be overlooked _is to get the seed in and
covered while the ground is fresh and damp_; therefore complete the work
in sections. At the distance given the hoe can be used and the soil
stirred between the rows, which is quite essential to a proper growth
of the plants, as well as necessary to keep down the weeds.
"The sowing completed, the bed may be covered with old bags or cloth to
retain the moisture, which, however, must be removed upon the first
signs of the seed germinating; but what is better still, a shade of
muslin can be used, supported by the upper edges of the frame and narrow
strips laid across, which can remain until the plants are well above
ground, when it should be removed, the plants sprinkled with tobacco
dust, air slacked lime, ashes or common plaster, and a covering of
mosquito netting be substituted for the muslin, which will admit light,
air and sunshine, yet be a partial shade, and will help to protect the
plants from insects. This cover may be removed during rainy weather,
and, if you please, every night to give the plants the benefit of the
dew.
"I have decided objections to artificial watering of seed-beds,
especially when the seed is first sown or in the early stages of growth
of the plants, and this may generally be avoided by following the
directions just given; but when circumstances may seem to demand
otherwise, let the bed be prepared and in the afternoon thoroughly
saturated, and toward evening the seed may be sown and covered as above
described, but never water the bed after the seed has been sown until
the plants are well up, for this has a tendency to pack the surface and
cause it to bake and prevent proper germinating of the seed. After the
plants are fairly above ground, light waterings at evening may be given,
but must be avoided if possible.
"I have not given these precautions for sowing seed in September for
wintering over, for the reason that at that season of the year we are
comparatively free from insects and drouths."
WHEN TO SOW.
The time for sowing will depend of course on the locality and variety.
At the North, half early varieties, intended for the fall crop, are
usually sown and set out about the same time as late cabbage. In Western
Michigan, in latitude 43 deg., I have found that Early Paris sown about May
12, and set out about the 20th of June, begins to head in September, and
forms its main crop in October, about the time desired. In the latitude
of New York City the time for setting out the main crop is from June 20
to the 1st of August. Plants set as late as the 1st of August are
intended to head just before winter, and must be of the earliest
varieties. The large late varieties, like Autumn Giant, if used at all,
must be started early and set out not later than the first of June, as
they require the entire season.
Several kinds are often sown to form a succession, but where one has
tested a variety and found it adapted to his needs, it is often quite as
well to rely upon it almost entirely, and make two or three sowings for
a succession if desired. Even a single sowing, well timed, will
generally furnish cuttings through the most favorable part of the
season. If the seed is of the best quality, and the plants are of
uniform size, and all set at the same time, neither too early nor too
late, on soil of uniform character, they will in a good season form most
of their heads within a short space of time, sometimes within a week;
but generally in a given sowing, a few heads will form very early, then
the bulk of the crop will come on during three or four weeks, while the
remainder will hang on until late, perhaps until winter. No other crop
is so much affected in time of maturity by the character of the season
as the cauliflower, and even the most experienced growers sometimes fail
in getting them to head at the time desired.
The time for starting the plants for the early crop in the North is in
February, and the method is described in full in another chapter. They
should be set out, as stated, as soon as heavy freezing is past, say
about the middle of April. The most unfavorable time of any, and yet the
time when the inexperienced are most likely to set them, is about the
middle of May, for early varieties set then usually head in August when
it is seldom that heads can be obtained of good quality.
PREPARING THE GROUND.
Land intended for cauliflowers should be plowed deeply, as the
cauliflower is a deep feeder and delights in a rich, cool subsoil; in
fact, with no other plant of the cabbage family is a deep soil so
important. The manure, of whatever kind, should be mainly spread upon
the ground and plowed under, a smaller amount, in a finely divided
state, being harrowed in upon the surface. The plowing should be done at
least a month before the plants are to be set, and the land kept well
harrowed or cultivated until that time in order to retain the moisture
in the soil, and put it in the best condition for the growth of the
plants.
SETTING THE PLANTS.
When the time comes for setting the plants it is a good plan to go over
the surface with a planker in order to smooth it off, so the marking can
be nicely done. This also packs the ground somewhat, so that the plants
can be set more firmly. The land may be then marked out, crosswise
first, three feet apart, then lengthwise three feet apart for Dwarf
Erfurt and all small growing kinds, and four feet apart for Algiers and
other large varieties. These are suitable distances for the late crop in
ordinary cases, but where land is cheap, and little manure used, except
sod turned under, four by four feet is none too much room for the large
varieties. The early crop, on the other hand, which is always heavily
manured, is sometimes set with the rows as close as two feet apart, and
the plants twenty inches apart in the rows. The small size of the heads
resulting from close planting is no actual loss, for small heads, if of
good quality, are more popular than large ones, and bring a higher price
in proportion to their size. The greatest danger from too close setting
of the main crop is that the plants may fail to head at all. It is for
this reason that cauliflowers are usually set farther apart than
cabbages.
The best time to set the plants is just before or after a rain, but they
may be set at any time if the soil has been kept damp by frequent
cultivation. In dry, clear weather the planting should be done only
toward the close of the day. If it should be necessary to apply water at
the time of setting, it should be thoroughly done, not less than a quart
being placed in each hole which is to receive a plant. Water should
never be applied after the plant is set unless loose earth is afterwards
thrown over the place, for the compact surface left after the water has
been absorbed dries out more rapidly than before.
The plants to be set should not be too large or they will be liable to
button, especially if the conditions are in any way unfavorable for
growth. If large plants must be used extra pains should be taken in
setting, in order that there may be as little check in their growth as
possible. With cauliflowers, as with cabbages, large plants are the
easiest to make live, but, for the reason stated, it is less desirable
to use them.
Setting the plants in shallow trenches, after the manner of celery, is
sometimes practised in garden culture. This places the roots where the
soil is cool and moist and enables the plants to be watered to good
advantage. This method is mainly used in early spring planting, when,
besides its convenience in irrigation, it also serves to protect the
plants from cold winds. Planting between ridges, as elsewhere described,
serves the same purpose of protection. In either case the surface is
gradually brought to a level as the plants are cultivated.
CULTIVATION.
In cultivation everything depends on keeping up a steady, vigorous
growth, for if the plants are checked in their growth, they are liable
either to form small heads prematurely, or to continue their growth so
late as to fail to head at all. Level cultivation is usually practiced,
the same as in ordinary field crops. Drawing the earth to the stems, as
sometimes recommended and practiced abroad, is unnecessary, though with
tall growing varieties it serves a useful purpose in preventing the
plants being blown over by the wind. Cultivation should continue until
the leaves are so large that they are liable to be broken off, or until
the plants are nearly ready to head. The application of a mulch of
manure or litter at the time cultivation ceases, is an excellent
practice, though seldom resorted to. It is important that deep
cultivation should cease at the right time, even if the hoe has to be
used afterward. The crop may be seriously injured, or at least delayed,
by cultivation after the plants begin to head. At this time the ground
should be undisturbed so that the roots may occupy the entire soil. Dry
weather, and the compact nature of the soil after cultivation ceases,
check the growth of the plants, and promote the formation of heads,
providing the plants have attained a proper age and size. The influence
of a firm soil in promoting heading is also seen in the success with
which cauliflowers can frequently be grown after peas or other early
crops. In autumn the first sharp frosts appear to be particularly
efficacious in starting the plants to heading.
IRRIGATION.
After heading has commenced is the time when irrigation is most needed.
An abundance of water at this time will add greatly, both to the
quantity and quality of the product, particularly if some fertilizer is
added at the same time. Irrigation is not often practiced in this
country, except in the arid districts of the West, and occasionally,
with the early crop, near a few of our large cities. In Europe, where
labor is cheap, it is often resorted to, even where the water has to be
carried by hand. Early in the season, if irrigation is needed, once a
week is frequent enough to apply the water, but while the plants are
heading it may be applied with advantage every day if the weather is
dry.
BLANCHING THE HEADS.
The value of cauliflowers for use or market depends almost entirely on
their being white and tender. To have them remain in this condition
until fully matured, they must be protected from the sun. Heads which
are left exposed become yellow in color, or even brownish purple if the
sun is very hot. Such heads also acquire a strong, disagreeable flavor.
There are various ways of covering the heads, but it is nearly always
done with the leaves of the plant. Early in the season, when the weather
is dry and warm, the work may be done during the heat of the day by
lapping the leaves, one after another, over the head until it is
sufficiently covered, tucking the last leaf under to hold all in place.
Or the leaves may be fastened with a butcher's skewer, or any sharp
stick. In Florida, orange thorns are employed for this purpose. Care
must be taken not to confine the heads too closely, or they will grow
out of shape, besides being liable to heat and become spotted. Later in
the season, when the weather is cool and damp, the leaves will be too
stiff to be bent down, and the head must then be protected either by
placing over it leaves broken from the outer part of the plant, or from
stumps from which the heads have already been cut, or by tying the
leaves together above the head. The latter is the usual method, rye
straw or bast matting being generally used for the purpose. Merely
breaking down the inner leaves upon the head is unsatisfactory, as the
growth, both of the leaves and the head, soon causes the head to become
exposed.
The artificial blanching of the head is most important early in the
season, while the sun is hot, and the field should then be gone over as
often as every other day for this purpose, taking two rows at a time.
Later in the season, during damp, cloudy weather, heads will sometimes
reach full size and still be of good color though entirely exposed. It
is unsafe to leave them in this way, however, as a little change in
color seriously affects their market value. Covering the heads appears
also to cause them to grow larger and remain solid longer than they
otherwise would, particularly early in the season.
PROTECTING FROM FROST.
Another object, late in the season, in covering the heads, is to protect
them from frost. A frosted cauliflower is practically worthless for
market, as it is nearly certain to turn black on the surface after one
or two days' exposure. Freezing, in fact, is one of the most frequent
sources of loss on cauliflowers late in the season, and as this is the
most favorable time of the year for them to head, it is necessary to
take particular care to guard against loss from this cause. We
frequently have a few hard frosts early in October, which spoil such
heads as are nearly mature, unless they have been protected. After this
there may be a month or more of good weather, during which the bulk of
the crop may come to maturity. The heads are protected from frost in the
same manner as from the sun, but it is best not to have the leaves lie
directly on the head. Protection is particularly needed as the heads
approach maturity, as they are then more easily injured than while
small. Heads which are well covered will usually stand eight or ten
degrees of frost without injury, depending on the amount of cloudiness
and moisture present. In cool, moist, cloudy weather, frosted heads will
sometimes recover and show no injury. It is even possible for heads to
become frozen solid and come out in good condition, but this rarely
occurs, and requires that the thawing take place in the most favorable
manner possible. Cutting the frozen heads with their leaves, throwing
them in shallow heaps upon the ground, and covering with straw, will
sometimes bring them out in good condition; also throwing them into
water but little above the freezing point. The safest way, however, if
possible, is to cook the heads at once, putting the frozen heads
directly into boiling water. Treated in this manner they exhibit little
or no effect of the freezing.
The safest way, in case heavy freezing is apprehended, is to cut and
remove to a place of safety all heads which have attained half their
size or more.
CUTTING THE HEADS.
The frequency of cutting will depend on the season of the year. In
summer, the heads will remain at the proper stage for cutting no more
than a day or two, while late in autumn they may often be left a week
before becoming overgrown.
Frequent cutting is at all times desirable, however, as it is best to
let the heads get as large as they will before becoming loose and warty.
The gain in size not only increases their selling price, but the flavor
also appears to improve as the heads approach maturity. Immature heads,
though mild and tender, have less flavor than those which are full
grown. It is better, however, to cut a head too soon than to leave it
too long, for a small solid head will sell for more than a large loose
one. To judge when a head has reached full size requires some
experience. The size of course, will depend on that of the plant, but
its size in proportion to that of the plant is perhaps the most common
point by which one judges when it is ready to cut. The head, when it
approaches maturity, rises within the leaves and bulges the latter
outward, so that one can often tell at some distance which heads are
about ready. The surface of the head, as it approaches maturity loses
its polished appearance and becomes more distinctly grained. This
change, if it does not go too far, does not detract from its appearance
and value. To examine a head, do not untie the top, but part the leaves
at the side. If there are signs of cracking or breaking it is ready to
cut. The heads should be cut with about an inch of stalk and two or
three full circles of leaves. A long thin-bladed knife is best to cut
with.
The best time of the day in which to cut the heads, if for home use, or
a near market, is in the morning while the dew is on, as they will then
remain longer in a fresh state than if cut latter in the day. If to pack
for a distant market, the heads will carry and keep better if cut when
dry, but on a cool day or toward evening.
HANDLING.
The heads must be handled with care to prevent the "flower" becoming
bruised or soiled in any way. A bruise will turn black in a short time,
the same as a frosted surface, and thus injure the sale of the head. The
heads can be handled most safely if the leaves are left on, and these
had best be left entire until the plants are taken to the packing shed;
and for a near market they may even be left on to advantage until the
plants are ready to be exposed for sale. The main object of their
removal is in order that the heads may be readily inspected.
TRIMMING.
This is often done in the field, but, as just stated, it had better be
delayed until the heads are carried to the place for packing. To trim
them, take hold of a head near the butt with one hand, holding it
upright against you, then with a turning motion, cut clear around the
head, leaving the cut ends of the leaves projecting about an inch above
the edge of the head. This exposes as much of the head as can be seen at
one view, and the leaves as left protect the margin from bruises. The
butt should be cut off smooth, and there should be left about two layers
of leaves.
The heads at the time of packing should be free from moisture, and if
the leaves are a trifle wilted they will pack all the better. Flour
barrels, or barrels of that size, are best to pack in, as cauliflowers
are now usually sold at wholesale by the barrel. Barrel-crates of the
same size are also coming into use, especially for the early crop, as
the heads are liable to heat in hot weather if packed in close barrels.
Each cauliflower at the time of packing is now usually wrapped in strong
soft white paper, the edges of the paper being tucked between the leaves
and head. The heads are then placed in the barrels, commencing at the
outside, laying them upon their sides facing in, and filling the center
with smaller heads. Continue each layer in this way until the barrel is
a little more than full. Pack as solid as possible. Cover with canvass
or bagging, putting it under the top hoop and pressing it down by
driving down and nailing the hoop. Tea-chest matting, which usually
costs nothing, may be used for covers if desired.
It may be added that cauliflowers are sometimes packed in their own
leaves, just as they come from the field, or all the leaves may be
removed but one or two which are to be folded over the head. It usually
pays, however, to use paper, but this must be white, or else when
bruised it will stain the heads.
Sometimes, when the cauliflowers are to be sold at retail, sugar-barrels
are used to pack in, as they cost less than other barrels and are
larger. They are always clean and sweet, and do not make too large a
package, as cauliflowers are not heavy.
Small slatted crates are also a favorite package in which to ship
cauliflowers, particularly early in the season. Large crates, such as
are sometimes used for cabbages, are entirely unsuitable.
A method of packing cauliflowers for shipment employed in Denmark, is
described as follows: "The heads are to be cut off in a dry state, but
not wilted, and with only an inch of stalk. The leaves are to be
removed, with the exception of a couple of the inner courses, which
should be cut down to such a length as to meet when they are bent gently
together over the head. Pack in clean, open neat-looking crates or
boxes, in the bottom of which put a few leaves, and on these the
cauliflower heads, which should be of a uniform size for each crate.
Pack closely and firmly in layers, taking care, however, not to bruise
the tender heads. All the heads in a layer should turn in the same
direction, being laid sidewise, and the next layer in the opposite
direction, respectively, with top and stem. On the top of the heads fill
in with leaves until the cover will press the whole contents so tight as
to prevent the heads from moving during transportation."
The price of cauliflowers is less subject to fluctuation than that of
most other vegetables. There is comparatively little competition between
different localities, and about the only causes of low prices are
temporary and local over-production, and forced sales caused by damaged
stock. One year with another, a dollar and a half a dozen may be
realized on good heads, which is more than double the average price of
cabbages. Contracts are taken, however, at as low as fifty cents a dozen
to supply pickle-factories. Under favorable conditions fully as large a
percentage of cauliflowers will head as of cabbages, so that in a good
location, with proper care, the cauliflower crop is a profitable one. It
may be well to remind growers, however, that one should not attempt to
sell a large quantity of cauliflowers in a small market, for even at a
low price people will not buy largely of what they are not accustomed to
using. But it is surprising to what an extent a market may be developed
for this vegetable. No one who has once used the cauliflower will
thereafter do without it, if it can be obtained at a reasonable price.
There is absolutely no necessary limit to the market for this vegetable,
providing reasonable care is exercised in creating and supplying the
demand. The price in this country ought always to be maintained if
possible at at least double that of cabbages, not only on account of the
greater delicacy of the cauliflower, but because of the greater care
needed in its production, and the uncertainty of the crop, owing to
unfavorable seasons and other causes. I could easily quote examples of
extraordinary profits made in growing the cauliflower, as well as
instances of repeated failure. Cases of both kinds of experience are
given elsewhere in the present volume. I have here only attempted to
show what may be reasonably expected.
KEEPING.
More attention is being paid of late years to the keeping of
cauliflowers in winter, and it is now customary with some to plant a
small late crop for the purpose of winter heading. Most growers,
however, will have more or less unheaded plants at the end of nearly
every season which can be used for this purpose.
William Falconer, of Long Island, sows Extra Early Erfurt about July 1,
pots the young plants, and sets them in the open field after early
potatoes have come off. In November the plants that show signs of
heading are stripped of the larger outer leaves, then taken up and set
close together in beds and covered with hot-bed sash. In cold weather
straw or thatch is added. In this way the plants continue to give heads
until February. Plants which have begun to head may be taken up in the
same way and set in a cellar. Just enough moisture should be given to
keep them from wilting, as, if too much is given, they are liable to
rot. Fully headed cauliflowers are difficult to keep. If hung up in a
cellar in the way cabbages are frequently kept, they wilt and become
strong in flavor and dark in color. This may be remedied with a few
heads by cutting off the stem a few inches below the head before they
are hung up, hollowing out the stem and filling the hollow with water.
It is said that the heads will keep in good condition for a long time if
packed in slightly damp muck. A simple way of preserving partly headed
plants out of doors is to take them up with as much earth as possible
and set them close together in trenches, after the manner of celery,
placing boards at the sides, and in cold weather a covering of straw
overhead. In this way the heads are easily accessible and keep in good
condition.
A method employed in Scotland for preserving cauliflower is to bury them
in a dry place, heads downward and roots exposed, in the ordinary manner
of burying cabbages. They are said to keep well by this method from
November to January. The leaves are folded over the heads to keep them
from coming in contact with the soil.
Another method, employed in Denmark, is to make a bed of moist sand
about four inches deep in a cool room protected against frost; the floor
had better be of asphalt, cement or the like. Toward the end of autumn
the heads are cut with a piece of the stem three or four inches in
length, which is stuck into the sand. All the leaves are removed except
the inner course, which must be cut down pretty closely, and the heads
then covered with flower pots.
Still another method, employed where hard freezing is not anticipated,
is to take up the plants and set them out in a slanting position close
together out of doors with the heads to the north, as is done with
cabbages.
Pulling up the plants and throwing them on their sides will protect the
heads from a moderate degree of cold, and can be resorted to upon the
sudden approach of cold weather. Cutting the heads with plenty of leaves
and throwing them in long low heaps, faces downward, will preserve them
in the cool, damp weather of early winter for a considerable time, and
the heads, even in this condition, will increase somewhat in size.
It will sometimes happen, early in the season, that one desires to
retard the development of the head until a convenient time for
marketing. For this purpose the plants may be lifted, when the heads are
nearly mature, and set under a shed or elsewhere in the shade.
It may be well here to remind those who grow only a few plants in a
garden, and who wish to prolong the season, that several cuttings may be
taken from a single head if desired. A portion of the head should be
left each time. Occasionally, but not often, a stump will sprout and
form a second crop. A method of accelerating the formation of heads,
which is practiced in Ireland, may also be worth recording. It consists
in slitting the stalk from near the ground upward toward the heart, and
placing a stick in the slit to prevent the parts reuniting. The soil is
then drawn up around the cut, and the plant staked to prevent its
breaking off. It is said that plants so treated will form their heads
from six to eight days earlier than they otherwise would.