CHAPTER VII

BY-PRODUCTS OF THE COCOA AND CHOCOLATE INDUSTRY

Of Cacao Butter.--

It is the best and most natural _Pomatum_ for Ladies to

_clear_ and _plump_ the Skin when it is _dry, rough_, or

_shrivel'd_, without making it appear either _fat_ or

_shining_. The _Spanish Women_ at _Mexico_ use it very much,

and it is highly esteem'd by them.

_The Natural History of Chocolate_, R. Brookes, 1730.

Of Cacao Shell.--

In Russia and Belgium many families take Caravello at

breakfast. This is nothing but cocoa husk, washed and then

boiled in milk.

_Chocolate and Confectionery Manufacture_, A. Jacoutot.

_Cacao Butter._

In that very able compilation, _Allen's Organic Analysis_, Mr. Leonard

Archbutt states (Vol. II, p. 176) that cacao butter "is obtained in

large quantities as a by-product in the manufacture of chocolate." This

is repeated in the excellent book on _Oils_, by C.A. Mitchell (Common

Commodities of Commerce series). These statements are, of course,

incorrect. We have seen that cacao butter is obtained as a by-product in

the manufacture of cocoa, and is _consumed_ in large quantities in the

manufacture of chocolate. When, during the war, the use of sugar for

chocolate-making was restricted and little chocolate was produced, the

cacao butter formerly used in this industry was freed for other

purposes. Thus there was plenty of cacao butter available at a time when

other fats were scarce. Cacao butter has a pleasant, bland taste

resembling cocoa. The cocoa flavour is very persistent, as many

experimenters found to their regret in their efforts to produce a

tasteless cacao butter which could be used as margarine or for general

purposes in cooking. The scarcity of edible fats during the war forced

the confectioners to try cacao butter, which in normal times is too

expensive for them to use, and as a result a very large amount was

employed in making biscuits and confectionery.

Cacao butter runs hot from the presses as an amber-coloured oil, and

after nitration, sets to a pale golden yellow wax-like fat. The butter,

which the pharmacist sells, is sometimes white and odourless, having

been bleached and deodorized. The butter as produced is always pale

yellow in colour, with a semi-crystalline or granular fracture and an

agreeable taste and odour resembling cocoa or chocolate.

Cacao butter has such remarkable keeping properties (which would appear

to depend on the aromatic substances which it contains), that a myth has

arisen that it will keep for ever. The fable finds many believers even

in scientific circles; thus W.H. Johnson, in the _Imperial Institute

Handbook_ on _Cocoa_, states that: "When pure, it has the peculiar

property of not becoming rancid, however long it may be kept." Whilst

this overstates the case, we find that under suitable conditions cacao

butter will remain fresh and good for several years. Cacao butter has

rather a low melting point (90° F.), so that whilst it is a hard, almost

brittle, solid at ordinary temperatures, it melts readily when in

contact with the human body (blood heat 98° F). This property, together

with its remarkable stability, makes it useful for ointments, pomades,

suppositories, pessaries and other pharmaceutical preparations; it also

explains why actors have found it convenient for the removal of grease

paint. The recognition of the value of cacao butter for cosmetic

purposes dates from very early days; thus in Colmenero de Ledesma's

_Curious Treatise on the Nature and Quality of Chocolate_ (printed at

the Green Dragon, 1685), we read: "That they draw from the cacao a great

quantity of butter, which they use to make their faces shine, which I

have seen practised in the Indies by the Spanish women born there."

This, evidently, was one way of shining in society.

Cacao butter has been put to many other uses, thus it has been employed

in the preparation of perfumes, but the great bulk of the cacao butter

produced is used up by the chocolate maker. For making chocolate it is

ideal, and the demand for it for this purpose is so great that

substitutes have been found and offered for sale. Until recently these

fats, coconut stearine and others, could be ignored by the reputable

chocolate makers as the confection produced by their use was inferior to

true chocolate both in taste and in keeping properties. In recent times

the oils and fats of tropical nuts and fruits have been thoroughly

investigated in the eager search for new fats, and new substitutes, such

as illipé butter, have been introduced, the properties of which closely

resemble those of cacao butter.

For the information of chemists we may state that the analytical figures

for genuine cacao butter, as obtained in the cocoa factory, are as

follow:

ANALYTICAL FIGURES FOR CACAO BUTTER.

Specific Gravity (at 99° C. to water at 15.5° C.) .858 to .865

Melting Point 32°C. to 34°C.

Titer (fatty acids) 49°C. to 50°C.

Iodine Absorbed 34% to 38%

Refraction (Butyro-Refractometer) at 40°C. 45.6° to 46.5°

Saponification Value 192 to 198

Valenta 94°C. to 96°C.

Reichert Meissel Value 1.0

Polenske Value 0.5

Kirschner " 0.5

Shrewsbury and Knapp Value 14 to 15

Unsaponifiable matter 0.3% to 0.8%

Mineral matter 0.02% to 0.05%

Acidity (as oleic acid) 0.6% to 2.0%

Although the trade in cacao butter is considerable, there were, before

the war, only two countries that could really be considered as exporters

of cacao butter; in other words, there were only two countries, namely,

Holland and Germany, pressing out more cacao butter in the production of

cocoa than they absorbed in making chocolate:

EXPORT OF CACAO BUTTER.

Tons (of 1000 kilogrammes)

1911 1912 1913

Holland 4,657 5,472 7,160

Germany 3,611 3,581 1,960

----- ----- -----

8,268 9,053 9,120

----- ----- -----

During the war America appeared for the first time in her history as an

exporter of cacao butter. Hitherto she was one of the principal

importers, as will be seen in the following table:

IMPORTS OF CACAO BUTTER.

Tons (of 1000 kilogrammes)

1912 1913

United States 1,842 1,634

Switzerland 1,821 1,634

Belgium 1,127 1,197

Austria-Hungary 1,062 1,190

Russia 955 1,197

England 495 934

The next table shows the imports (expressed in English tons) into the

United Kingdom in more recent years:

IMPORTS OF CACAO BUTTER.

Year 1912 1913 1914 1915 1916 1917

Tons 477 912 1512 599 962 675

The wholesale price of cacao butter has varied in the last six years

from 1/3 per pound to 2/11 per pound, and was fixed in 1918 by the Food

Controller at 1/6 per pound (retail price 2/- per pound). The control

was removed in 1919, and immediately the wholesale price rose to 2/8 per

pound.

_Cacao Shell._

Although I have described cacao butter as a by-product, the only true

by-product of the combined cocoa and chocolate industry is cacao shell.

I explained in the previous chapter how it is separated from the roasted

bean. As they come from the husking or winnowing machine, the larger

fragments of shell resemble the shell of monkey-nuts (ground nuts or pea

nuts), except that the cacao shells are thinner, more brittle and of a

richer brown colour. The shell has a pleasant odour in which a little

true cocoa aroma can be detected. The small pieces of shell look like

bran, and, if the shell be powdered, the product is wonderfully like

cocoa in appearance, though not in taste or smell. As the raw cacao bean

contains on the average about twelve and a half per cent. of shell, it

is evident that the world production must be considerable (about 36,000

tons a year), and since it is not legitimately employed in cocoa, the

brains of inventors have been busy trying to find a use for it. In some

industries the by-product has proved on investigation to be of greater

value than the principal product--a good instance of this is glycerine

as a by-product in soap manufacture--but no use for the husk or shell of

cacao, which gives it any considerable commercial value, has yet been

discovered. There are signs, however, that its possible uses are being

considered and appreciated.

For years small quantities of cacao shell, under the name of

"miserables," have been used in Ireland and other countries for

producing a dilute infusion for drinking. Although this "cocoa tea" is

not unpleasant, and has mild stimulating properties, it has never been

popular, and even during the war, when it was widely advertised and sold

in England under fancy names at fancy prices, it never had a large or

enthusiastic body of consumers.

In normal times the cocoa manufacturer has no difficulty in disposing of

his shell to cattle-food makers and others, but during 1915 when the

train service was so defective, and transport by any other means almost

impossible, the manufacturers of cocoa and chocolate were unable to get

the shell away from their factories, and had large accumulations of it

filling up valuable store space. In these circumstances they attempted

to find a use near at hand. It was tried with moderate success as a fuel

and a considerable quantity was burned in a special type of gas-producer

intended for wood.

Cacao shell has a high nitrogenous content, and if burned yields about

67 lbs. of potassium carbonate per ton. In the Annual Report of the

Experimental Farms in Canada, (1898, p. 151 and 1899, p. 851,) accounts

are given of the use of cacao shell as a manure. The results given are

encouraging, and experiments were made at Bournville. At first these

were only moderately successful, because the shell is extremely stable

and decomposes in the ground very slowly indeed. Then the head gardener

tried hastening the decomposition by placing the shell in a heap,

soaking with water and turning several times before use. In this way the

shell was converted into a decomposing mass before being applied to the

ground, and gave excellent results both as a manure and as a lightener

of heavy soils.

On the Continent the small amount of cacao butter which the shell

contains is extracted from it by volatile solvents. The "shell butter"

so obtained is very inferior to ordinary cacao butter, and as usually

put on the market, has an unpleasant taste, and an odour which reminds

one faintly of an old tobacco-pipe. In this unrefined condition it is

obviously unsuitable for edible purposes.

Shell contains about one per cent. of _theobromine_ (dimethylxanthine).

This is a very valuable chemical substance (see remarks in chapter on

Food Value of Cocoa and Chocolate), and the extraction of theobromine

from shell is already practised on a large scale, and promises to be a

profitable industry. Ordinary commercial samples of shell contain from

1.2 to 1.4 per cent. of theobromine. Those interested should study the

very ingenious process of Messrs. Grousseau and Vicongne (Patent No.

120,178). Many other uses of cacao shell have been made and suggested;

thus it has been used for the production of a good coffee substitute,

and also, during the shortage of sawdust, as a packing material, but its

most important use at the present time is as cattle food, and its most

important abuse as an adulterant of cocoa.

The value of cacao shell as cattle food has been known for a long time,

and is indicated in the following analysis by Smetham (in the Journal of

the Lancashire Agricultural Society, 1914).

ANALYSIS OF CACAO SHELL.

Water 9.30

Fat 3.83

Mineral Matter 8.20

Albuminoids 18.81

Fibre 13.85

Digestible Carbohydrates 46.01

------

100.00

------

From these figures Smetham calculates the food units as 102, so that it

is evident that cacao shell occupies a good position when compared with

other fodders:

FOOD UNITS.

Linseed cake 133

Oatmeal 117

Bran 109

English wheat 106

_Cacao shells_ 102

Maize (new crop) 99

Meadow hay 68

Rice husks 43

Wheat straw 41

Mangels 12

These analytical results have been supported by practical feeding

experiments in America and Germany (see full account in Zipperer's book,

_The Manufacture of Chocolate_). Prof. Faelli, in Turin, obtained, by

giving cacao shell to cows, an increase in both the quantity and quality

of the milk. More recent experience seems to indicate that it is unwise

to put a very high percentage of cacao shell in a cattle food; in small

quantities in compound feeding cakes, etc., as an appetiser it has been

used for years with good results. (Further particulars will be found in

_Cacao Shells as Fodder_, by A.W. Knapp, _Tropical Life_, 1916, p. 154,

and in _The Separation and Uses of Cacao Shell_, Society of Chemical

Industry's Journal, 1918, 240). The price of shell has shown great

variation. The following figures are for the grade of shell which is

almost entirely free from cocoa:

CACAO SHELL.

AVERAGE PRICE PER TON.

Year 1912 1913 1914 1915 1916 1917 1918 1919

Price 65/- 70/- 70/- 70/- 90/- 128/- 284/- 161/-

PRICE PER FOOD UNIT.

_July_, 1915. _Jan._, 1919.

_s._ _d._ _s._ _d._

English Oats 3 1-1/2 3 8

Cotton Seed Cake 2 5 3 11

Linseed Cake 1 7 3 5

Brewers Grains (dried) 1 6-1/2 3 8-1/2

Decorticated Cotton Cake 1 6 3 3-1/2

Cacao Shell 8-1/4 1 4-1/2

The above table speaks for itself; the figures are from the Journal of

the Board of Agriculture; I have added cacao shell for comparison.

Cocoa and Chocolate: Their History from Plantation to Consumer · 第 7 / 10 章